USA > Massachusetts > Massachusetts : a guide to its places and people > Part 28
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And time has brought changes to the fisheries of Gloucester. The fast schooners that once sailed out past the breakwater are giving way to smaller trawlers and gill-netters, Diesel-powered. The Anglo-Saxon population that dominated the city for more than two hundred and fifty years has recently been given vitality and color by large immigrant groups of Portuguese and Italians and a sprinkling of Scandinavians.
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These men, seafarers all, have brought their own traditions to the fisher- ies and their allied industries, spar- and sailmaking, rigging and iron- working and to the manufactures dependent on the fisheries - glue, isinglass, and fertilizer. The fishermen seek their living upon the most dangerous waters in the world, the fog-shrouded, berg-haunted Grand Banks, with their swift currents and steep, short seas, and the treacherous shoals nearer home - Georges Bank, Stellwagen Bank, and the pictur- esquely named ledges along the coast. Although ten thousand men of Gloucester have been lost at sea in the three centuries of her history, the modern fishermen still pursue their calling without heroics but with skill and daring undiminished.
GLOUCESTER FOOT TOUR -2 m.
E. from Legion Square on Middle St.
I. The Joan of Arc Equestrian Statue, at Legion Square, is a distinguished work of Anna Vaughn Hyatt.
2. The Universalist Church, corner of Church St., was erected in 1868, its octagonal steeple a copy of one on an earlier church on the same site, where was held in 1774 the first Universalist service in America.
3. The Sargent-Murray-Gilman House (1768) (open in summer as a tea- room; no inspection charge to patrons; otherwise 25¢), 49 Middle St., has a gambrel roof, denticular cornice, and quoined corners. It was, some- time after 1788, the home of the Rev. John Murray, founder of Uni- versalism.
4. The Sawyer Public Library (open weekdays 9-9, Sun. 2-9) is a resi- dence in the Federal style with white clapboards, quoined corners, a recessed third story and a modern red roof. The walls of the fine old stairway were adorned in 1934 with Murals of Gloucester Scenes, under the sponsorship of the Federal Art Project.
L. from Middle St. on Dale Ave .; R. from Dale Ave. on Warren St .; L. from Warren St. on Pleasant St.
5. The Cape Ann Scientific, Literary, and Historical Association (open daily in summer, 11-4; adm. 25¢), corner of Federal St., is a three- story Georgian Colonial house, containing ship models, period furniture, old china, pewter, costumes, minerals, and marine plants.
R. from Pleasant St. on Prospect St.
6. The Portuguese Church of Our Lady of Good Voyage (open), is known for its carillon of 32 bells. Above its door is a sensitively conceived figure of the Madonna holding a schooner in one hand, the other hand raised in blessing the waters. The Fiesta Of Pentecost is celebrated on three successive Sundays. Dark-skinned, brilliant-eyed children march with their elders to the church, where the pastor places crowns on the
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Gloucester and Rockport
heads of those chosen to express the gratitude of the community for the intervention of St. Peter in their behalf during the past year.
R. from Prospect St. on Main St.
7. Below the Waterfront are the wharves where for more than 300 years fishing boats have discharged their cargoes. The vessels returning with their great catches from the Grand Banks and nearer waters were once all sailing ships and the crews all Yankee. Now the 40-foot power trawlers and gill-netters predominate, and most of the crews are Portu- guese.
Straight ahead from Main St. on Western Ave.
8. The Gloucester Fisherman in bronze, executed by Leonard Craske, stands on the Esplanade, looking across the harbor to the open sea. By the statue every year on an August Sunday afternoon is held the fisher- men's memorial ceremony. Flowers are placed at the feet of the Fish- erman; from a point of land near Blynan's Bridge, the roll of those lost at sea during the past year is slowly read and armfuls of blossoms are strewn upon the water, to be carried out by the ebb tide to unknown graves.
The larger island in the harbor is Ten Pound Island, purchased from the Indians for ten pounds, and now a Coast Guard station. Farther east stretches Eastern Point, from the tip of which juts Dog Bar Break- water. Little Five Pound Island was chosen as the site of the new Fish Pier, in 1937.
MOTOR TOUR 1 (Eastern Point), 7.3 m.
S. from Legion Square on Washington St .; L. from Washington St. on Main St .; R. from Main St. on E. Main St.
9. The Gorton-Pew Fisheries Plant (open) is a series of gray fish sheds, piers, and open-air 'flakes' for canning and drying fish.
GLOUCESTER MAP INDEX
I. Joan of Arc Equestrian Statue
2. Universalist Church
3. Sargent-Murray-Gilman House
4. Sawyer Public Library
5. Cape Ann Scientific, Literary, and Historical Association
6. Church of Our Lady of Good . Voyage
7. Waterfront
8. Gloucester Fisherman
9. Gorton-Pew Fisheries Plant
IO. North Shore Art Association
II. Rocky Neck
12. Gloucester Society of Artists
13. Eastern Point Yacht Club
35. Stage Fort Park
36. Hammond Museum
37. Rafe's Chasm
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IO. The North Shore Art Association (open in summer; weekdays 10-6, Sun. 2-6), on the water's edge, holds exhibitions from July to September. R. from E. Main St. on Rocky Neck Ave.
II. Rocky Neck is the heart of the summer colony of artists, actors and writers, occupying bungalows, old sail lofts and remodeled sheds along the narrow peninsula. To the left lies the open bay; to the right is the inner harbor.
The Gloucester School of the Theater presents plays acted by its students in a red-shingled small barn (the Little Theater) at the end of the road, by the side of the marine railway.
Retrace on Rocky Neck Ave .; R. from Rocky Neck Ave. on E. Main St. and straight ahead from E. Main St. into Eastern Point Rd.
12. The Gloucester Society of Artists (open in summer, weekdays 10-6, Sun. 2-6, adm. 15¢) exhibits paintings and sculpture through the summer season, and joins in August with the North Shore Art Association in the Artists' Ball.
13. The Eastern Point Yacht Club (private) occupies a small promontory in the harbor on the edge of Niles Beach. Here begin the large summer estates.
Straight ahead from Eastern Point Rd. into Eastern Point Blvd. West.
14. Niles Pond is a curious and lovely natural phenomenon, a reed- bordered and lily-starred fresh-water pond divided from the sea on the east by the narrowest of causeways.
Beyond the pond the road (barred in summer to tourists) leads to Eastern Point Light and Mother Ann, a rock formation bearing a fancied re- semblance to a reclining woman.
L. from Eastern Point Blvd. West, on Lake Ave .; R. from Lake Ave. on Eastern Point Blvd. East; Straight ahead from the boulevard on Atlantic Rd .; R. from Atlantic Rd. on Bass Ave.
15. Little Good Harbor Beach (public; parking charge on Sun.), is an excellent sandy bathing beach at all tides. The small rocky island just offshore is Salt Island; and in the near distance is Thatcher's Island, with the granite towers of its twin lights (erected in 1771), only one of which is now in use.
MOTOR TOUR 2 (Cape Ann), 19 m.
S. from Legion Square on Washington St .; L. from Washington St. on Main St .; L. from Main St. on Eastern Ave .; R. from Eastern Ave. on Thatcher Rd .; R. from Thatcher Rd. on Long Beach Rd.
16. Long Beach, one and a half miles long, is a fine sandy bathing beach on the open Atlantic.
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Gloucester and Rockport
Retrace Long Beach Rd .; R. from Long Beach Rd. on Thatcher Rd. which becomes South St., Rockport; R. from South St. on Marmion Way.
17. The Straitsmouth Inn, perched on the rocks overlooking Straits- mouth Island, commands a fine view. Just below the inn at the right is a U.S. Coast Guard Station (open).
Retrace Marmion Way; R. from Marmion Way, on South St.
The tour now plunges abruptly into the heart of ROCKPORT, rival of Gloucester in its summer art colony.
R. from South St. into short lane leading to docks.
18. New Harbor is the joy of artists. At the left stretches little Bearskin Neck, crowded with weathered fishermen's shacks, small gray sail lofts and piers, to which are usually moored two or three fishing smacks. At the right is the Sandy Bay Yacht Club (private).
'Motif No. 1' is the designation facetiously applied to the natural com- position made by a little sail loft with a siding of vertical brown planks, which juts out into the harbor, and a small vessel usually tied alongside, because the scene has been so often painted by Rockport artists.
Retrace lane; R. from lane on South St .; R. from South St. on Bearskin Neck.
19. Bearskin Neck takes its name, as indicated by a marker at the turn from South St., from the capture there in early days of a bear which had been caught by the tide.
At the end of the Neck is the Site of an Old Fort which served the town well in the War of 1812, when Rockport was of sufficient importance to draw a naval attack from the British.
Retrace Bearskin Neck; R. from Bearskin Neck on Main St.
20. The Ebenezer Pool Mansion (private), 25 Main St., is a square white dwelling erected in 1805, with four great chimneys rising from a hip roof.
2I. The Rockport Art Association (open in July and Aug. daily; free), 12 Main St., holds summer-long exhibitions, and sponsors an Artists' Ball, the great event of the Rockport season. The Association occupies The Old Tavern, erected in 1770, and considerably renovated.
22. The First Congregational Church (1803), known as the 'Old Sloop,' has a steeple rebuilt in 1814 after being demolished by a shot from the British man-of-war 'Nymph.'
R. from Main St. on Beach St .; straight ahead from Beach St. into Granite St. 23. The Granite Quarries represent a flourishing 19th-century industry which was crippled by the introduction of substitutes for stone in buildings and highway construction.
24. The Old Castle (open July and Aug., and Sun. 2-5; free), at the junc- tion of Curtis St., is a dwelling dating to about 1700, with a lean-to roof, shingled sides, and a red door and window sashes, the whole set well back from the road in a grassy, tree-shaded yard.
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L. from Granite St. on Curtis St .; L. from Curtis St. on Pigeon Hill St.
25. The Paper House (open in summer daily; fee 25g) is a bungalow (1922) with walls and furniture constructed entirely from newspapers, rolled and glued.
Retrace Pigeon Hill St .; R. from Pigeon Hill St. on Curtis St .; L. from Curtis St. on Granite St.
26. The Garrison Witch House (open by arrangement), nearly opposite Phillips Ave., dates in part from 1670, a gray clapboarded dwelling with unusual roof line, a later white doorway and a side second-story overhang. It is the only authentic garrison house remaining near Boston, and was probably used as a refuge during King Philip's War. Here fled Elizabeth, Proctor, condemned with her husband and four other settlers as guilty of witchcraft.
R. from Granite St. on Gott Ave.
27. Halibut Point (reached by footpath only, from a point 200 yards down Gott Ave .; parking 25g) is a State Reservation on a jagged rocky headland. At the beginning of the footpath is the Gott House (open by arrangement), a humble gambrel-roofed dwelling of 1702.
Retrace Gott Ave .; R. from Gott Ave. on Granite St., which becomes Washing- ton St. in Gloucester.
28. Lanesville offers a view of granite cliffs and sand dunes across a stretch of ocean.
29. The Consolidated Lobster Company (open to visitors) is a large plant which makes deliveries by airplanes, keeping the crustaceans alive in pools until shipped.
30. At Goose Cove, Annisquam, from the bridge crossing the inlet, appears the nearest view on the Cape of sand dunes, white across the Annisquam River, and accented with sage-green beach grass. The nearer beach is Coffin's Beach with Wingaersheek Beach beyond.
31. The Annisquam Willows, through which the highway runs in a doubled roadbed, were planted that their interlacing roots might make a firm underpinning for the road.
L. from Washington St. on Reynard St .; L. from Reynard St. on lane marked 'To Dogtown.'
32. Dogtown, truly a 'blasted heath,' is a vast open, rolling moor, thickly strewn with glacial boulders and rendered yet more desolate by a sparse growth of stunted cedars. It contains the cellar holes of more than 40 dwellings, the homes in 1650 of fishermen and their families. Through war and wrecks at sea and the removal of remaining settlers closer to the harbor, the village came to be inhabited solely by poverty-stricken widows and children, protected by ferocious watchdogs from which the settlement took its name. The majority of the cellar holes have been numbered on adjoining boulders, to identify them under their owners' names in Roger Babson's 'History of Dogtown.' Here lived old Luce
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George, a wild-eyed hag, and her niece, Tammy Younger, who so be- witched the oxen hauling grain past their cabin that the animals stood with lolling tongues and would not move until part of their load had been donated to the Devil, as represented by Goody George. Here, too, dwelt young Judy Rhines, heroine of Percy MacKaye's poem, casting her spells over fine strong lads; and old Peg Wesson, who, in the guise of a black crow, followed a detachment of soldiers to Louisburg in 1745 and annoyed them until the crow was shot by a silver bullet made from the buttons of a soldier's coat; at which very moment, back in Gloucester, Old Peg fell down and broke her leg and soon died - some say with a silver bullet in her.
Retrace 'Dogtown' Lane; R. from ' Dogtown' Lane on Reynard St .; L. from Reynard St. on Washington St.
33. The Babson House (private) (1740), 245 Washington St., a gambrel- roofed yellow mansion with white trimmings, contains attic pens once used for slaves.
34. The Ellery House (private), directly opposite the Babson House, dates from 1704. Its gray walls have an overhanging second story, a lean-to roof, and the typical central chimney of the period.
MOTOR TOUR 3 (West Gloucester), 11 m.
SW . from Legion Square on Middle St .; R. from Middle St. on Western Ave .; L. from Western Ave. on Hough Ave.
35. At Stage Fort Park, overlooking Gloucester Harbor, was the first fishing stage and the first fort on Cape Ann.
L. from Hough Ave. on Western Ave .; L. from Western Ave. on Hesperus Ave.
36. The Hammond Museum (open June 1-Oct. 1 on weekday mornings only; tours under guide at 9, 10, and 11; adm. 50g), a stone castle in medie- val style in the Magnolia section, overlooks the sea. It contains a picture gallery, rare old furniture, wood carvings and sculpture collected and arranged by John Hays Hammond, Jr.
L. from Hesperus Ave. on dirt road marked 'To Rafe's Chasm.'
37. Rafe's Chasm is a narrow cleft in the granite coast at sea level, in which the tide surges back and forth with a hollow boom, and from which an east wind and an incoming sea send up sheets of spray high in the air. Offshore is the small reef of Norman's Woe, familiar from Longfellow's 'The Wreck of the Hesperus.'
1
HAVERHILL
From Hardscrabble to Hats and Shoes
City: Alt. 59, pop. 49,516, sett. 1640, incorp. town 1645, city 1869.
Railroad Station: Haverhill Station, Railroad Square, off Washington St., for B. & M. R.R.
Bus Stations: Corner Bridge and Water Sts. for Eastern Mass. Ry. Co .; Lyon's Drugstore, Merrimack St., for the Blue Way Lines, Short Line, B. & M., and Checker Cab Bus; 6 Washington St. for Grey Line.
Airport: Emergency landing field only, with no refueling service; daylight land- ings only. Located 2 m. S. of the center of the city on State 108.
Accommodations: Two hotels open all the year.
Information: Chamber of Commerce, Washington Sq.
HAVERHILL, now a typical New England manufacturing city, in its three hundred years' history has developed from a hardscrabble frontier village to its present high position in the industrial world. Something of its variegated past still remains to give the city a flavor quite different from that of its neighbor Lawrence. At Haverhill's back door flows the Merrimack. New houses shoulder weathered old ones along the wide streets, and from the Haverhill bridge there unfolds upstream a panorama of factories, office buildings, and spires, while downstream lies the long, lovely perspective of rounded hills, neat farms, and broad river of an unchanged New England.
Certainly the Reverend John Ward and his twelve followers could never have previsioned more than an eventual approximation of the quiet market town of Haverhill, England, when they landed on the muddy Merrimack shore in 1640 to found a new plantation. The swift wide waters of the river were too powerful for them to harness, but they early saw modest possibilities in the rapid small streams rushing down from the hills, and they offered grants of land and other inducements to such applicants as would put them to use.
During the first century of its existence Haverhill was a frontier town cut off by the Merrimack from the more secure settlements of the coast. The settlers clearing their fields had no Indian troubles until King Philip's War in 1675, and their frontier position had many advantages. The soil of the glacial hillsides was fertile. The forests provided oak and pine timber, and the wilderness trails became the avenues for a profitable trade in skins and furs. The oaks and pines provided frames and planking for the ships which were building all along the Merrimack. The first vessel was launched from a Haverhill yard in 1697, and for nearly one hundred and fifty years the town's merchants sent their goods adventuring in their own ships. The pelts purchased from the Indians were cured in the tan-
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neries which had flourished from 1643, and which are still a feature of the town's industrial life.
The making of hats, recorded as early as 1747, was an important industry in Haverhill throughout the last century, and continues at present on a diminished scale.
The mercantile boom that swept the cities of the Massachusetts coast to prosperity during the Federalist period gave impetus to Haverhill ship- building. Four shipyards in 1800 were turning out ships, schooners, and sloops; sometimes three were launched in a single day. Trade with the South and with the West Indies flourished. Haverhill's position as a port of entry, however, was gradually surrendered to Newburyport and other coastal cities. The larger vessels which gained favor after the Revolution were not suited to river navigation, and this was made even more difficult when a group of Newburyport merchants built the Chain Bridge across the Merrimack in 18II. Haverhill merchants turned manufacturers and invested their profits in shoe factories, hat factories, comb factories, and tanneries. In 1836 there were twenty-eight shoe factories in Haverhill.
The invention of the Goodyear turn shoe-stitching machine, patented in 1875, assured Haverhill's position as a manufacturing center of high-grade shoes. Later the local manufacturers specialized in fashionable shoes for women. As a center of shoe manufacture and allied industries, Haverhill was outdistanced only by Brockton among Massachusetts cities in 1934. Other manufactures are boxes and paper, woolens, food products, brooms, chemicals, shirts, mattresses, hats, cigars, and radio cabinets.
Haverhill, like the other Massachusetts shoe cities, Lynn and Brockton, is a center of unionism. For the student, trade-union structure and opera- tion is vividly depicted in the activities of the Shoe Workers Protective Union in Haverhill from 1900 to 1930. Thomas Norton in his 'Trade Union Policies in the Massachusetts Shoe Industry' analyzes this union and its arbitration technique. Other strong unions in the city are the Boot and Shoe Workers' Union of the American Federation of Labor, the Brotherhood of Shoe and Allied Craftsmen and the United Shoe and Leather Workers' Union, the last two independent. Recently there has been a movement to amalgamate all these groups.
The city is definitely divided into foreign quarters, whose residents are more or less segregated and intermingle with those from other quarters only during the working day at the factories. Along the Methuen high- way, Polish immigrants till their small farms. Between the end of this highway and the western side of the city, the Latin immigrants have built a little Italy. The Jewish quarter, complete with markets, clubs, and synagogues, borders both sides of Washington Street near the junction of River Street. The homes and societies of the French-Canadians dominate Lafayette Square. In the section between Washington Square, Essex, Emerson, and Winter Streets are the places of business, the coffee houses, and the homes of the Syrians and Armenians. From Winter Street to the northern outskirts of the city is the 'Acre,' as the Irish section of
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Main Street and Village Green
Haverhill has long been called. From Monument Square toward the northeast extends that part of the city inhabited by families who took root in Haverhill soil before the industrial era.
Haverhill is one of the few cities in the east with a commission form of government. Such a system is built on the theory that the modern city is essentially a great business enterprise and should be administered by the same methods which would be regarded as efficient by any successful commercial corporation.
TOUR - 7.5 m.
N. from River St. into Main St.
I. The Hannah Dustin Statue (1879), occupying a small triangular Green near the junction of Summer St., depicts the heroic woman who was abducted by the Indians in March, 1697, and escaped with the scalps of ten of her captors dangling from her belt.
R. from Main St. into Summer St.
2. The Haverhill Public Library (open weekdays 9-9, Sun. 2-6, Nov .- Apr.) is rich in souvenirs of the poet Whittier, and contains a complete and valuable collection of first editions of his works.
R. from Summer St. into Mill St .; L. from Mill St. into Water St.
3. The Rev. John Ward House (open Tues., Thurs., Sat. 2-5; adm. free), the first frame house in Haverhill, was built about 1645 for the first minister. The Haverhill Historical Society, present owners, have restored the rooms to their original condition and furnished them in 17th-century style.
4. The Buttonwoods (adm. free), built in 1814 and now headquarters of the Haverhill Historical Society, is adjacent to the Ward House and ter- raced high above the Merrimack. In front of it are still standing the two sycamores of which Whittier wrote. Tenny Hall (open Tues., Thurs., Sat. 2-5; adm. free), is a modern wing added to the brick-end clapboarded house. It houses the Archeological and Natural History Department of the Society, containing Indian relics and other antiquities of this section.
5. The Spiller House or Hazen Garrison House (1680-1690) (private), on the corner of Groveland and Water Sts., is a charming dwelling care- fully restored. A two-and-a-half-story brick house, its bricks laid in shell mortar, it contains unusually large fireplaces with two huge ovens shaped like beehives. The window arrangement is unusual and the hardware, which includes oak latches and hinges and strap and butterfly hinges, is for the most part original.
Retrace Water St .; R. from Water St. into Mill St.
6. The Ayer Homestead (private) overlooks the Green from the northwest
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side at the intersection of Saltonstall St. This is a 17th-century dwelling with a dark weather-stained exterior, steeply pitched roof, central chim- ney, and interesting doorway.
R. from Mill St. into State 110 (Kenoza St.).
7 The Winnikenni Reservation (automobiles must park at entrance) con- tains tennis courts, bridle paths, and hiking trails. In the background loom the massive gray walls of Winnikenni Castle (open on application to Park Dept.), built in 1873 and in imitation of a medieval castle in Bath, England.
8. Kenoza Lake (Indian, meaning 'Lake of the Pickerel') lies near-by, mirroring the wooded banks of the Reservation.
9. The Birthplace of John Greenleaf Whittier (open daily 10-sundown; adm. 10g) (on State 110, 3 m. from city) is a fine example of a New Eng- land early American farmhouse. The house contains relics which include the old desk on which the poet's earliest rhymes and last poem were written. Built in 1688, it has been restored as nearly as possible to its original condition. The many landmarks identified with Whittier's poems are those of the old Haverhill, the quiet New England farming town. The gentle Quaker poet was not sensitive to the throbbing industrial city that was growing up along the Merrimack shore, and preferred to sing of country ways and the 'proud isolation' and 'self-righteous poverty' of the old stock from which he sprang.
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