USA > Massachusetts > Massachusetts : a guide to its places and people > Part 68
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CHESHIRE, 16 m. (town, alt. 945, pop. 1660, sett. 1766, incorp. 1793), has always depended to some extent on dairying. In 1801 a local cheese weighing 1235 pounds was laboriously carted down to President Jefferson by admirers. The town has had the usual minor industrial activities - small saw, grist, and iron mills - and for about 80 years local calcium carbonate has been mined and made into lime.
The Cole House (open), opposite the Baptist Church, is now a tearoom. Built about 1804, the large two-and-a-half-story structure with central chimney has a 'Christian' door with eight panels forming a double cross - supposed to protect the house against witchcraft. In 1809 the house served as a meeting-place for the Franklin Masonic Lodge and a few years ago, when five layers of wallpaper had been removed, a number of Masonic emblems were found - the royal arch, beehive, Bible-balance, square and compass - painted on the walls in brown with a blue-green background.
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At 16.6 m. is Hoosic Lake (Cheshire Reservoir; excellent pickerel fishing). At 17.1 m. is the Site of the Glass Sand Plant, where the first plate glass in America is said to have been made (1853) by James N. Richmond. At 18.2 m. is the junction with a dirt road.
Right on this road is a lime-making plant, 0.2 m., which from the sifting dust of powdered lime has the appearance of a snow house. West on this road, trails lead to a tunnel drilled through half a mile of solid rock to facilitate the carrying of limestone from a quarry on one side of the hill to kilns in the village on the other side.
At 23.4 m. is the junction with State 9 (see Tour 8). Between this point and Dalton, State 8 and State 9 are united; right at Dalton, 25.8 m., on State 8.
HINSDALE, 29.6 m. (town, alt. 1431, pop. 1144, sett. 1763, incorp. 1804), soon after its settlement became an industrial town, utilizing the plentiful water-power of the Housatonic River. Raising sheep to supply wool for local mills had some importance between 1800 and 1840. About 1895 there was brief excitement over an apparent discovery of gold. With the decline of textile industries, dairying and catering to the summer tourist trade have become the most profitable occupations.
At the Center is the junction with State 143 (see Tour 8A).
South of Hinsdale, State 8 passes through a plateau of grassy meadows and brush-grown swamps. The upper reaches of the Housatonic River winding in and out through the alders offer good trout fishing.
At 30.4 m. is the junction with Middlefield road (see Side Tour 4B). At 34.9 m. is the junction with a crossroad.
Left on this road is the Washington Station (alt. 1497) of the Boston and Albany Railroad, 1.2 m., the highest station on the line. The old village Center was here until development of the motor road created a more modern village farther south. Near the station is a swamp that recently overflowed and covered the road paral- leling the railroad, the streams having been dammed by beavers.
At 35.5 m. is a pond (L), a local recreational center, and a junction with a dirt road.
Right on this road about 1 m. is a view of Eden Glen, a gorge through which the waters of Washington Brook froth along in a series of small cascades.
BECKET, 38.5 m. (town, alt. 1207, pop. 723, sett. 1740 and 1755, incorp. 1765), lacking good farming land originally depended for income upon its abundance of granite and hemlock bark. Scarcity of water-power and exhaustion of some of the natural resources arrested development in the latter part of the 19th century. Basket-making and quarrying are now the only year-around non-agricultural activities. This section of Becket was inundated by 25 feet of water pouring from the broken Ballou Dam in 1927, and the ruined factories were abandoned.
Right from Becket on the old Pontoosuc Turnpike, a former stagecoach route running between Springfield and Pittsfield, is the junction with a trail at 0.2 m. that leads across a bridge and part-way up a steep bank to a point below a lime -. stone ledge, over which Becket Falls plunges 25 feet into a grotesquely worn rock channel. At the foot of the cascade is a popular swimming hole.
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From Stamford, Vermont, to Winsted, Conn.
At 3.7 m. is St. Andrew's Chapel, the only church in Washington township, a stone structure of Gothic design, given to the town by George F. Crane of New York.
WASHINGTON, 4.5 m. (town, alt. 1437, pop. 252, sett. about 1760, incorp. 1777), is the center of one of the first towns named for George Washington. At one time the inhabitants made considerable income by collecting hemlock bark for tanning purposes, but today farming and poultry-raising are the means of livelihood.
Left from Washington is a road running into the heart of the October Mountain State Forest, comprising 13,861 acres of high land covered with spruce, hemlock, and hardwood forests, of which 12,000 acres is a wild-life sanctuary. In the forest is Schermerhorn Park (picnic grounds, trails, camp sites). At 3 m. right into Whitney Park, a popular recreational spot named for the former owner of most of the Forest, Harry Payne Whitney, who held it as a private game preserve; when this area was acquired by the State, the elk and buffalo on it were shipped to the West, but the moose remained and still roam the area. In the park is a high Observation Tower.
At 6.2 m. on the Pontoosuc Turnpike is the junction with a dirt road leading (L) 0.3 m. to Ashley Lake, the principal reservoir of the Pittsfield water system. Near here is a large bed of sand that has been used by a glassworks in Lenox for the manufacture of an unusually clear glass.
At 39 m. on State 8 is the junction with a road.
Left on this road to Center Pond Brook, 1.3 m .; near its entrance into the West Branch of the Westfield River, reached by a footpath, it forms a 25-foot waterfall.
At 40 m. is the junction with a dirt road.
Right on this road at 1 m. to the junction with another road; left here past Yokum Pond, 2 m., (alt. 1800) to the Becket section of October Mountain State Forest (see above).
At 40.4 m. (R) is the Site of the Ballou Reservoir (see above).
At 42.8 m. State 8 plunges erratically through thickly wooded hills and (R) passes the north end of Center Pond (bathing, boating, fishing), cur- tained by heavy foliage.
BECKET CENTER, 43.5 m. (alt. 1600, Town of Becket), has a fine old Church, dating from about 1780, with a Revere bell made from copper utensils contributed by the citizens of the town just after the Revolu- tion.
Traversing rolling hills, State 8 reaches, at 45.1 m., BONNY RIGG FOUR CORNERS (alt. 1400) and the junction with US 20 (see Tour 4). Between this point and West Becket, State 8 and US 20 are united, crossing Jacob's Ladder.
WEST BECKET (alt. 1039), 50.4 m. is a crossroads village where State 8 turns left and US 20 (see Tour 4) continues right.
At 51.3 m. on State 8 is Shaw Pond (camping, bathing, fishing).
At 52.3 m. is an Old Rake Shop (R.) (open as a tearoom), a two-and-a-half- story red clapboarded structure. Near-by is a wooden dam.
OTIS, 56.1 m. is at the junction with State 17 (see Tour 4A).
South of Otis, the highway parallels the West Branch of the Farmington River. The State-leased waters of this stream and its tributaries are
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High Roads and Low Roads
public fishing grounds. Inviting areas for camping and picnicking border the roadway.
At 59.1 m. is COLD SPRING (alt. 1173), once a thriving section with a prosperous foundry that was destroyed by fire and never rebuilt.
At 61.3 m. is a junction with a dirt road.
Left on this road and across a bridge to an extensive picnic area in the Tolland State Forest, 0.2 m.
NEW BOSTON, 64.6 m. (Town of Sandisfield, alt. 880, pop. 471, sett. 1750, incorp. 1762), has had a variety of industrial interests, including tanneries, woolen and silk mills, shoe and hat factories and cooperages. Today, however, agriculture and dairying are the chief occupations, and maple sugar, and cheese the leading products.
Edmund H. Sears, Unitarian clergyman and editor of the Religious Mag- azine and Monthly Review, a native of this town, in 1849 wrote the Christ- mas hymn, 'It Came Upon the Midnight Clear.'
Right from New Boston on a road paralleling the Buck River are at 1.5 m. public fishing grounds on the Buck and Clam Rivers, near the village of WEST NEW BOSTON (alt. 920; Town of Sandisfield). At 2.6 m. is MONTVILLE (alt. 1150, Town of Sandisfield) with a Jewish Colony of a score or more families, started 25 or 30 years ago, as an experiment in a 'back-to-the-land' movement from New York City.
Crossing the West Branch of the Farmington River, State 8 passes the spectacular New England Ski Hill at 64.9 m., one of the highest leaps in the State. At 66.1 m. (R) is a view of Hanging Mountain, a perpendicu- lar cliff of rock about 300 feet high. Jutting out above the base are masses of rock that appear ready to plunge into the Farmington River; frag- ments loosened by the rain and frost do sometimes come crashing down with tremendous force.
At 68.6 m. is a junction with a dirt road.
Right on this road to Simon Pond (Lake Marguerite) 1 m., a spot popular with anglers.
At this same point State 8 crosses the Connecticut Line about 8 m. north of Winsted, Conn.
TOUR 23 : From ATHOL to RHODE ISLAND STATE LINE (Providence), 63.5 m., State 32 and 122.
Via (sec. a) Petersham, Dana, Barre, Oakham, Rutland, Paxton, and Worces- ter; (sec. b) Millbury, Grafton, Northbridge, Sutton, Uxbridge, Douglas, Mill- ville, and Blackstone.
B. & A., B. & M., N.Y., N.H. & H. R.R.'s service part of this area. Hard-surfaced road throughout.
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From Athol to Providence, R.I.
Sec. a. JUNCTION WITH STATE 2 to WORCESTER, 37.3 m.
THE northern section of this route runs through heavily wooded country that gradually opens up into the Ware River Valley.
State 32 branches from State 2 (see Tour 2), 1.8 m. east of Athol. At 3.8 m. is the office and laboratory of the Harvard Forest (see below).
At the crest of a long hill, 4.7 m., is the Petersham Country Club (open to visitors; 18-hole golf course, greens fee $1.50; tennis courts). In the low- ceiled rooms of the clubhouse is a collection of prints relating to sports.
PETERSHAM, 7.1 m. (town, alt. 1100, pop. 718, sett. 1733, incorp. 1754), was first called Nichewaug and Volunteers Town, and later named for Petersham in Surrey, England.
The Town Hall, an interesting building in Georgian Colonial style, is surmounted by a small gilt-domed cupola.
I. Right from Petersham on New Salem Rd. into the Massachusetts Federation of Women's Clubs State Forest (hiking; picnicking facilities), 4.5 m., an area of 1000 acres presented to the Commonwealth by the Federation in 1933; about one sixth of the park is a bird sanctuary.
2. Right from Petersham on an improved road is DANA, 5.9 m. (town, alt. 515, pop. 387, sett. 1733, incorp. 1801). A plant was established here for the shaping of pianoforte legs and later included the making of picture and billiard-table frames. When the business was transferred in 1880, the building was used as a satinet factory. Numerous home industries were finally supplanted by agriculture.
Between 8.4 m. and 10.5 m. is Harvard Forest, a 2100-acre tract, including 1000 acres maintained as a bird refuge. It was acquired by Harvard in 1908, and used as an experiment station by the University's School of Forestry. In October the rich variety of foliage shows at its best in the varied hues of autumn.
The Rocking Stone Park is at 11.8 m., and back from the road and to the right of the entrance is the famous Rocking Stone, a boulder so perfectly poised upon another that originally it could be rocked slightly by the mere pressure of the hand. According to Indian tradition, this was the work of Manitou, the Great White Spirit, who placed the boulder in that position. It is said to have been used as an altar of sacrifice or shrine by the Indians. A more credible explanation, however, is that given by Pro- fessor Agassiz to the effect that the formation occurred accidentally as a result of glacial action. The twin boulders remain today, but have been so affixed that the Rocking Stone no longer rocks. A literal-minded farmer, incensed at the trespassers who crossed his land to view the wonder, fastened the boulders together and undid the work of the glaciers - or of Manitou, as the case may be.
BARRE, 15 m. (town, alt. 650, pop. 3509, sett. about 1720, incorp. 1774), is a town incorporated as Hutchinson and renamed in 1776 for Colonel Isaac Barre, a friend of the colonists in the English Parliament. During the latter part of the 18th century flax-growing was profitable here and two linseed oil refineries established. Today dairying is the most impor-
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High Roads and Low Roads
tant occupation, though woolen mills, founded in the early 19th century, and foundries help maintain local prosperity.
I. Left from Barre on South St. at 0.2 m. is a private road leading to Cook's Canyon (open by permission of owner), 0.6 m., a particularly beautiful spot, comprising about 40 acres of rocky gorge.
2. Left from Barre on an improved road to Barre Falls, 4.5 m. a series of cataracts and pools where Dick Brook has cut its way through the rocks.
At 16.2 m. State 32 branches right (see Tour 23A); left on State 122. WHITE VALLEY (alt. 652, Town of Barre), 18.7 m. on State 122, is a rapidly disappearing mill village. The Headhouse Shaft No. 8 of the tun- nel connecting the Enfield and Wachusett Reservoirs of the Metropolitan Water System is at 19 m. on State 122. Here the waters of Ware River are caught from October to June, falling 270 feet through a series of gates in the shaft into the tunnel, where they can be diverted in either direction.
At 19.9 m., on the Site of the Village of Coldbrook Springs, razed by the Water Commission, is the junction with an improved road.
Right on this road is OAKHAM, 3.2 m. (town, alt. 730, pop. 441, sett. 1749, incorp. 1762), named for the English village from which the majority of the settlers came. The town, originally relying on farming and lumbering, made attempts at industrial development, but dairying and the production of hay today provide the townspeople with income.
The Forbes Memorial Library (1908) on the Common houses Oakham Historical Society and its collection of old documents and relics. The Library, built of local field-stone, has granite and Indiana limestone trim, and a red slate roof with cop- per flashing.
In flat wooded country at 23.5 m. is the junction with State 122A.
Left on State 122A; at 1.5 m. is the junction with Charnock Rd. (L), on which, near-by, is the Site of the Revolutionary War Barracks built to hold the Hessians captured in 1778.
A short distance beyond the site of the barracks is a marker indicating the Site of a Dugout said to have been occupied by the family of the famous Madame Jumel when the latter was a child. This unfortunate family, who had the reputa- tion of being ne'er-do-wells, had been hounded from pillar to post by the town officials of Providence, Rehoboth, Taunton, and North Brookfield, lest they be- come town charges. For three years Betsey Bowen lived in the workhouse at Providence, while her sister Polly, her mother, Phoebe, and her stepfather, Jona- than Clark, existed wretchedly in the dugout. Betsey, however, proved to be far from a ne'er-do-well. She did very well, indeed, for herself by marrying a wealthy trader named Stephen Jumel with whom she lived for many years in Paris. When she returned to the land of her humble birth and early humiliations, it was to create in New York City a furore (which doubtless reached Rutland) by her elegant establishment, her Paris wardrobe, and a famous collection of fine furniture and rare paintings. After the death of Jumel she married Aaron Burr.
The General Rufus Putnam House (open daily, 2-5; adm. 10g) 2 m., was the home of the Revolutionary officer from 1781 to 1788 (see Tour 23, SUTTON). Here he planned the expedition to settle the great Northwest, founding the town of Marietta, Ohio. Near-by is the Rufus Putnam Memorial Park.
At 2.6 m. is RUTLAND (town, alt. 1001, pop. 2406, sett. 1716, incorp. 1722). After the Revolution the bankrupt citizens of Rutland joined the insurgents headed by Daniel Shays and the town was used as headquarters of the forces that marched to Worcester.
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From Athol to Providence, R.I.
Because of the altitude, the first of several tuberculosis sanitariums was estab- lished here at the end of the 19th century; these institutions have contributed to the town's stability and prosperity, providing jobs and a market for dairy and garden products and poultry.
On Central Tree Ave., 0.5 m. left of the village, is a lopsided elm, identified by a . marker as on the exact geographic center of the State.
At 27.9 m., State 122 passes through an area of many ponds and slow- flowing brooks containing muskrats.
PAXTON, 29.3 m. (town, alt. 1133, pop. 731, sett. about 1749, incorp. 1765), was named for Charles Paxton, Commissioner of Customs at the Port of Boston and Marshal of the Admiralty Court. Some years later this gentleman so infuriated the colonists by his participation in the drafting of the notorious tea tax that he was driven out of Boston. The village, loyally supporting the Colonial cause, tried to rid itself of its name, but in vain.
Bottomley's Pond, 30.6 m. (R), at the corner of Leicester Rd., facetiously called 'the Paxton Navy Yard,' is said to have derived this nickname from the query of a drunken sailor, who, having arrived by coach within view of the pond, mistook the bare trunks and branches of a tree at the water's edge for the masts of ships.
Left from Paxton Center on Maple St. to Three Mountain Corner, 0.7 m., which offers views of Mts. Wachusett, Monadnock, and Greylock.
At 36.4 m. is the junction with State 9 (see Tour 8) and State 12 (see Tour 11).
At 37.3 m. is WORCESTER (see WORCESTER) and the junction with State 70 (see Tour 7).
Sec. b. WORCESTER to RHODE ISLAND STATE LINE, 26.2 m. State 122.
South of Worcester, State 122, a heavily traveled, main artery, passes through a series of manufacturing districts.
At 0.9 m. is the junction with State 122A, a more direct and perhaps more interesting route between Worcester and Farnumsville.
Right on this road at 5.5 m. is MILLBURY (town, alt. 407, pop. 6879, sett. 1716, incorp. 1813). Before its settlement by the English this section must have been an important center of Indian life as more than 1000 relics of indigenous handi- craft have been found in the vicinity of Ramshorn Pond.
The opening of the Blackstone Canal in 1828 gave impetus to its growth and within a few years its manufacturing capacity doubled. When the canal was closed in 1848, because of serious trouble between mill-owners and operators of the waterway, the Providence and Worcester Railroad was already an accom- plished fact, so that the progress of the town was in no way hampered.
The peak of industrial growth was reached about 1910. Since that time, owing to changes in economic conditions and competition with new regions, the cotton textile enterprise in the town has declined. Today, however, Millbury is still primarily an industrial community, with textiles, spindles, thread, felt, and tools the leading products and a large percentage of the inhabitants employed in manu- facturing these articles.
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The second Asa Waters Mansion (open), Elm St. (L), is a two-and-a-half-story structure, said to have been the finest residence in the county at the time of its erection (1826-29). It is distinctive in its academic correctness and skillful treat- ment of detail and is one of the later examples of the Georgian Colonial style. The gathering of materials for the house took two years. Hard pine was brought from the South, mahogany from Central America, marble from Italy, and bricks from Baltimore. The finishing timber was 'pumpkin pine' from Maine. As woodwork- ing machinery had not yet been invented, boards and moldings, joinery and carv- ing had to be wrought by hand. The present occupant, Father James M. Burke, has a notable collection of colored glass.
Right from Millbury on a paved road is SUTTON, 3.7 m. (town, alt. 346, pop. 2408, sett. 1716, incorp. 1718). The town land was purchased from the Indians in 1704 by a group of Boston residents. Because of the rich soil, settlement pro- gressed rapidly. Textile factories and a paper mill were established about 1800, but industrial activity declined when the railroads ignored the town in laying out routes. Today three small shuttle factories are the only industries, and fruit- growing, dairying, and market gardening are the profitable enterprises.
The First Congregational Church (organized in 1719), on the village Green, has a beautiful spire of the Wren type and a graceful green-shuttered fan window over the entrance. The building was erected in 1813.
Right from Sutton 0.5 m. on the Oxford Rd. is (L) the Cole-Woodbury House (open), built in 1724, a rambling white frame house with faded blue blinds, set back from the road, surrounded by a stone fence and gay-hued gardens. The spacious living-room has a large fireplace, exposed framing, and on three sides windows offering attractive vistas.
At 1.3 m. on the Oxford Rd. is a granite Milestone, five feet high and eight inches thick, marked '48 ML to Boston 1771 - B.W.' In 1771 the county commissioners undertook to place milestones along what was then called the Connecticut Rd.
Colonel Bartholomew Woodbury, a local innkeeper, was quick to sense the ad- vertising advantage of a milestone at the front door of his tavern. Unfortunately, the proper location of the milestone was several hundred feet south of the tavern. The colonel overcame this obstacle by persuading the commissioners to waive the mere matter of accuracy and to authorize the setting of the stone where he desired. He promised that if they would do so, he would erect at his own expense a mile- stone that would be 'the queen of all milestones.' It is interesting to speculate whether the traveling public ever discovered the discrepancy in the local mileage.
On the Site of the Birthplace (1738) of General Rufus Putnam, the present house of brick with marble trim, was built in 1818. General Putnam planned the fortifica- tion of Dorchester Heights and was made chief engineer of the new army; in 1779 he assisted Israel Putnam in completing the defenses of West Point. His crowning achievement, however, was one of peace: he was a founder of the Ohio Company and superintended the settlement of Marietta, Ohio.
Between Millbury and Farnumsville, State 122A parallels the Blackstone River. At FARNUMSVILLE, 9.7 m. (alt. 292, Town of Grafton), is the junction with State 122.
State 122 winds down easy grades to Lake Ripple, 7.5 m., at the junction with State 140 (see Tour 23B).
At 8.9 m. on State 122 is an old Indian Cemetery marked by a large boulder bearing the inscription, 'Eliot's band of Praying Indians.' There are 13 stones within the fenced plot. John Eliot commenced his benevo- lent labors among the Natick Indians (see Tour 8) with whom the Nip- mucks of Worcester County had friendly and constant intercourse. It is probable that the favorable report of the Naticks induced the Nipmucks to listen to his sermons. Eliot's success in this area caused the General
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From Athol to Providence, R.I.
Court in 1654, on his petition, to set it apart for the use of the tribes in order to prevent conflicting claims between them and the English.
At 10.4 m. is FARNUMSVILLE (alt. 292, Town of Grafton), the junction with State 122A (see above).
At 14.8 m. is the junction with a road.
Right on this road is WHITINSVILLE, 1.3 m. (alt. 302, pop. 10,577, sett. 1704, incorp. 1772; Town of Northbridge). Through the influence of 12 families of Friends in the community, this town did not participate very actively in the Revolutionary War. Abundant water-power attracted industries. In 1826 Paul Whitin opened a cotton-textile factory and his descendants are still the leading manufacturers, though the production of mill machinery is now of primary im- portance, with textile and paper manufacturing ranking second.
Right from Whitinsville on Sutton Rd. 3.2 m. is Purgatory Chasm State Park (picnic facilities), opened in 1919 and comprising 80 acres. The chasm is about a quarter of a mile long, 70 feet deep, and 20 to 50 feet wide. The bottom is strewn with huge blocks of stone resting at strange angles. On the sheer sides of the chasm are towering hemlocks, seemingly growing out of the very stone. Geologists generally agree that an earthquake caused the cleft.
At 17.4 m. is NORTH UXBRIDGE (alt. 243, Town of Uxbridge), a small village.
Right from North Uxbridge on Hartford Ave. 0.3 m. to the junction with a road; right on this road at 0.7 m. is a small white house formerly known as the Taft Tavern (private). Here on Nov. 6, 1789, George Washington and his suite found accommodations on his return journey to New York after his tour of New England. He had planned to stay with his old friend Colonel Amidon in Mendon, but, owing to a misunderstanding, the Presidential party was refused lodging there by a slow- witted maid and was forced to travel to Uxbridge. The day was cold and rainy and the trip most uncomfortable. Colonel Amidon and his daughter rode post- haste from Mendon to Uxbridge to try to induce Washington to return, 'but the President had no desire to add to the miserable miles he had traveled that day; in fact, he had retired. Clad in dressing-gown, nightcap, and slippers, he did, however, chat a few minutes with his disappointed friend. So pleased was Washing- ton with his entertainment at Taft's that he wrote a letter from Hartford, accom- panied by a piece of chintz for each of the host's daughters and a gift of money for one of them.
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