USA > Massachusetts > Massachusetts : a guide to its places and people > Part 62
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From Rindge, N.H., to Granby, Conn.
Enthusiastic horsemen and other sportsmen initiated the idea in 1933. The problem of connecting the scattered local trails of the State into through trails was undertaken by the Forest and Park Association, a private organization, working in co-operation with public and other private organizations.
In addition to making accessible remote points not reached by motor roads, the Trail will meet the bridle trails of New Hampshire and Ver- mont. It runs through several State Forests. At Groton a branch leads to Rockport on Cape Ann.
TOUR 1 3 : From NEW HAMPSHIRE LINE (Rindge) to CONNECTICUT LINE (Granby) 83.7 m., US 202.
Via (sec. a) Winchendon, Templeton; (sec. b) New Salem, Shutesbury, Pelham, Prescott, Belchertown, Enfield, Granby, South Hadley, and Holyoke; (sec. c) Montgomery, Westfield, Southwick, Granville, Tolland.
B. & M. and B. & A. R.R.'s for northern towns; B. & A. R.R. for south central section; N.Y., N.H. & H. R.R. for southern towns in this area.
Hard-surfaced road throughout.
Sec. a. NEW HAMPSHIRE STATE LINE to ATHOL, 22.3 m.
US 202 crosses the State diagonally, traversing hill country, at one time heavily wooded and now covered with a second growth of hardwood and evergreens. Only a few scattered settlements break the woodland.
US 202 crosses the New Hampshire Line 15 m. south of Peterboro, N.H. SPRINGVILLE, 1.5 m. (alt. 1020, Town of Winchendon), is a small village, with Chalybeate Spring (a short distance to the east), formerly valued by the Indians for its medicinal quality.
WINCHENDON, 3.7 m. (see Tour 11), the 'Toy Town,' is at the junction with State 12 (see Tour 11).
US 202 follows the winding course of Miller's River.
BALDWINSVILLE, 10.4 m. (alt. 900, Town of Templeton), a small village, was named for Deacon Jonathan Baldwin, a wealthy settler responsible for the early development of manufacturing.
When the First Baptist Church was moved to its present site, the process of removal extended over a period of days, and on Saturday night the structure was straddling the railroad tracks. Because the elders of the congregation sternly banned labor on the Lord's Day, the schedule of the railroad had to be canceled for that day.
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I. Left of the Center on South Main St., 0.5 m., are the Bryant House (1780) and the Jonathan Baldwin House. The former was the tavern and home of Captain Eden Baldwin, son of Jonathan Baldwin. Captain Eden, a man of literary tastes, is remembered for his 'Diary of Christopher Columbus Baldwin,' his experiences day by day as he traveled about the vicinity during the early part of the last cen- tury.
2. Left from the Center on Bridge St., at 0.6 m., is the entrance to Baldwinsville Cottages for crippled and handicapped children. Incorporated in 1882, it was a pioneer institution in giving the best possible care and training to unfortunate children. Financed by individual gifts and by the State, the institution now has five large buildings with accommodation for 135 pupils.
At 13.8 m. is the junction with State 2 (see Tour 2) which US 202 follows west to 22.3 m.
Sec. b. JUNCTION WITH STATE 2 to HOLYOKE, 40.2 m.
Between State 2 and Holyoke, US 202 is called the Daniel Shays High- way, because this region was the center of many activities of Shays's Rebellion. For about 20 m. it skirts the Quabbin Reservoir.
South of its junction with State 2 (see Tour 2) in ATHOL, US 202 at 0.4 m. passes a Covered Bridge over Eagleville Pond Brook.
At 1.4 m. is Lake Rohunta (small fees), a summer and camping resort. At 3.8 m. is the junction with a road marked North New Salem.
Right on this road is NORTH NEW SALEM, 1.2 m. Adjacent to the green is the Curtis House (private), built in 1775 and used for many years as a tavern on an old stage road. The building is a familiar two-and-a-half-story gabled-roof type with nine windows in front. It has a simple front entrance with a six-paneled 'Christian' door (see Tour 8, Cheshire). In the center of the house is a huge oven. Above this, on the second floor in a small room fugitive slaves were secreted until they could be taken to the next station north on the Underground Railway.
Left from the Green a road leads up a hill, enters the forest, and at 1.1 m. reaches the point where there is a footpath (R) into the woods. This terminates at Bear's Den and Falls on the middle branch of the Swift River. The waters cascade through a rocky gorge, some 50 feet in depth, several falls occurring before the river makes a sharp bend to continue its journey through the dim forest over huge boulders.
Just beyond the bend, the rock fragments are so thickly piled as to cause a jam, which tumbles the water about and tosses it over in a series of leaping, splashing little falls. Three caves in the cliff (L), once inhabited by bears, give this spot its name. A few yards downstream, a three-sided high stone wall built into the side slope suggests that once a mill of some sort used the power from these falls. Leg- end says that here King Philip held a council of war prior to his attack on Hat- field in 1675, and that the place was used by the Indians as a meeting-place, that they celebrated their victories on the cliffs above the falls, with feasting and danc- ing, and that they retreated here when outnumbered.
US 202 continues through wooded country with fine views of the hills (L). NEW SALEM, 7.5 m. (town, alt. 1030, pop. 443, sett. 1737, incorp. 1753), was named for Salem, because the original proprietors were residents of that town. After the Revolution, agriculture and lumbering flourished, and by 1820 New Salem had a population of 2146. Stagecoaches running between Brattleboro and Worcester made the town a center of trade. With the building of railroads, however, it was gradually isolated, and its population decreased rapidly. At present fruit-growing and the cultiva- . tion of raspberries comprise the principal occupations. Miss Sophia B.
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From Rindge, N.H., to Granby, Conn.
Packard and Miss Harriet E. Giles, natives of New Salem, in 1881 organ- ized the Spelman Seminary for Negro girls in Atlanta, Ga.
The route south of New Salem will be changed somewhat when the Quabbin Reservoir occupies the valley.
At 12.8 m. is a junction with a road marked Shutesbury.
Right on this road, which winds up a steep hill, is a Stone Wall, 0.9 m. (L), partly in ruins, that formerly enclosed the town pound. During the early days of the Revolution, the local minister, Rev. Abraham Hill, who entertained pronounced Tory sentiments, was incarcerated in the pound and fed on dried herring, tossed to him over the wall, a diet guaranteed to reduce almost any brand of political ardor.
SHUTESBURY, 1.3 m. (town, alt. 1000, pop. 239, sett. 1735, incorp. 1761), in what was originally part of a grant called Roadtown, was named for Samuel Shute, one-time Governor of the Bay Colony. Sawmills and agriculture furnished the chief means of livelihood for many years. Basket-making, one of the earliest in- dustries, still survives and is carried on as a monopoly by the Pratt family.
At the Center is the old burying ground in which repose the remains of 'Granther Pratt' (1686-1800), a Shutesbury Methuselah who, if tombstones do not lie, actually saw the turning-points of three centuries! He is buried in the west ceme- tery under a white marble shaft bearing the following tribute:
'He was remarkable, cheerful in his disposition and temperate in his habits. He swung a scythe 101 con- secutive years and mounted a horse without assistance at the age of IIO.'
The general store adjoins the Site of the Birthplace of Ithamar Conkey (born 1815), who wrote the music for the hymn, 'In the Cross of Christ I Glory.'
Right from the village 4.9 m. is Lake Wyola (excellent fishing, picnicking, boating, and swimming).
PELHAM, 17.1 m. (town, alt. 800, pop. 504, sett. 1738, incorp. 1743), is a small agricultural community set high between ranges of forest-crowned hills. Originally settled by Colonel Stoddard of Northampton, the grant was purchased by a group of Scotch Presbyterians from Worcester, who called the new settlement Lisburn. At its incorporation it was named for Lord Pelham, then traveling in the Colony. Agriculture has never flour- ished here owing to the hilly country and rocky soil. The cleared land is used largely for pasturage and blueberry-raising. The chief source of in- come is lumbering and stone quarrying.
Pelham was the home of Daniel Shays. Shays's Rebellion was the result of the post-Revolutionary depression, in which currency deflation and high taxes caused an epidemic of mortgage foreclosures. Sporadic at- tempts were made by armed mobs in various parts of the State to prevent the courts from meeting to give the foreclosure orders. Discontent was particularly strong in this part of the State and Shays succeeded in organizing an army that at one time numbered 1900 men. After prevent- ing the sitting of the Supreme Court in Springfield in 1786, Shays at- tempted to capture the arsenal, but failed and was forced to retreat to Pelham. His Encampment Site is in the southern part of the village. Shortly afterward Shays was pursued to Petersham by a large force from Boston under General Benjamin Lincoln. The rebels, outnumbered and
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poorly armed, were dispersed; and Shays took refuge in Vermont. He was pardoned in 1788 and died in 1825 at Sparta, N.Y.
I. Right from the village on an unnumbered road is the Orient Springs Picnic Grounds, 3.5 m., at the base of Mt. Orient. From here a footpath leads up the mountain to a Sulphur Spring, well known in the middle of the last century.
2. Left from the village on an unnumbered road past Swift River Falls, 2.1 m., is PRESCOTT, 3.7 m. (town, alt. 1120, pop. 18, sett. 1742, incorp. 1822), one of the towns to be inundated upon the completion of Quabbin Reservoir. This agri- cultural community was given its name in honor of Colonel William Prescott, com- mander at the Battle of Bunker Hill. In the 19th century the village produced lumber, grist, cider, cheese, matches, packing-boxes and carriages, quarried soap- stone, and wove palmleaf hats. In 1876 pure Italian bees, especially queens, bred by James Wood, commanded a national market. All landmarks of this busy past will soon be buried beneath the waters of the Swift River.
South of Pelham, US 202 passes over Pine Hill (alt. 720), 17.5 m., with an excellent view of the Swift River Valley.
Right from here on a good foot trail is Mt. Lincoln (alt. 1220).
At 24.7 m. is a junction with State 9 (see Tour 8).
BELCHERTOWN, 25.7 m. (town, alt. 476, pop. 3863, sett. 1731, in- corp. 1761), was named for Jonathan Belcher, late Governor of the Province. Holland Glen honors a native son, J. G. Holland, poet, novelist, historian, editor of the Springfield Republican, and author of a 'History of Western Massachusetts.' At one time the manufacture of sleighs, wagons, and carriages was important, but now most of the town people are engaged in dairy farming and the growing of the McIntosh apple.
On South Main St. is the Clapp Memorial Library (L), founded in 1882 by a $40,000 bequest of John Francis Clapp, a native. Built in the form of a Latin cross, the Library has two stained-glass memorial windows. One of these, a copy of Domenichino's painting in the Paris Louvre, rep- resents Music; the other symbolizes Literature.
The Stone House (open Wed. 3-5, adm. 25g), 0.1 m. south of the Center on US 202, built in 1827, is occupied by the Belchertown Historical Associa- tion. Adjoining it is the Carriage Shed Annex, donated by Henry Ford, containing early farm implements, spinning wheels and looms, and vehicles formerly made in Belchertown.
Left from Belchertown on State 21 is ENFIELD, 3.5 m. (town, alt. 417, pop. 495, sett. about 1742, incorp. 1816), most of which will be inundated in the course of the Metropolitan Water Development.
Belchertown State School, 26.3 m., cares for over 1300 mentally deficient children. Dr. George E. McPherson, superintendent, is well known not only for his professional work, but also for his work in bird-banding. At 29.9 m. is the junction with a side road.
Right on this road at 0.1 m. is the large rectangular three-story granite building of St. Hyacinthe's Seminary, a Franciscan institution for the training of men for the priesthood to serve Polish congregations of the Roman Catholic Church. The windows are plain, but the doorways are in the Gothic manner, and the portico has a large Gothic arch flanked by two small ones. The building is set on a double terrace lined with formal evergreens. The rugged Holyoke Range makes a beauti -· ful background, and the monastery faces on Forge Pond.
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From Rindge, N.H., to Granby, Conn.
US 202 continues through farmland on both sides.
At 30.1 m. are visible the saw-tooth peaks of the Holyoke Range which resulted from tilting after the traprock and sandstone sheets were broken into blocks. The peak (extreme L) with a hotel on its summit is Mt. Holyoke. This and succeeding summits are known as the Seven Sisters. The Wind Gap was deepened and widened in the past when a branch of the Connecticut River flowed through it. A large mountain to the right of the Wind Gap is Mt. Norwattuck. An overhanging ledge on the south- ern slope of this eminence is called Shays's Horse-Shed, because some of Shays's troops stabled their horses here the night after their defeat at Springfield.
GRANBY, 31.4 m. (town, alt. 250, pop. 956, sett. 1727, incorp. 1768), is an attractive residential village, named for the Marquis of Granby, a popular English military leader of pre-Revolutionary days. Sporadic attempts to industrialize the community have met with little success, and today there are no traces of the distilleries, wool, and satinet factories that flourished briefly in the 19th century. A farm that once supplied clinics and hospitals with cancerous mice, guinea pigs, and rabbits for experimen- tal purposes has likewise passed into oblivion.
At 32.5 m. is the junction with West St.
Right, West St. passes over Cold Hill, 1.5 m. (alt. 380), from which is a fine view across the Connecticut Valley. Straight ahead is majestic Mt. Tom (with observa- tory); the buildings of Mount Holyoke College, looking as though they were at the foot of the mountain, are separated from it by the Connecticut River. The Holyoke Range is far to the rear (R). To the left of Mt. Tom is the city of Holyoke with hills in the background. The river cannot be seen, but the stacks of manufactur- ing plants along its banks trace its course between the clustered roofs of residential sections. The old Smith College hymn gives very well the feeling of the scene:
'And where the hills with purple shadows Eternal vigil keep, Above the happy river meadows In golden haze asleep ... '
SOUTH HADLEY FALLS, 36.5 m. (see SOUTH HADLEY), is at the junction with State 116 (see Tour 15B).
From Canal St. on the east bank of the Connecticut River, are traces of the oldest canal in the State, used, before the dam was built, to take river boats around the rapids. Instead of using locks to reach the upper level, the boats were loaded onto a wagon with large wheels that ran up an inclined plane. The city seal of Holyoke shows a sketch of this device.
At 37.9 m. is the Connecticut River. From the bridge is a fine view of the Holyoke Dam (R). For the history of this dam, see HOLYOKE.
US 202, bearing right at the end of the bridge, passes several paper mills and crosses two of the three canals.
At 38.4 m. State 116 (see Tour 15B) branches left.
At 40.2 m. is HOLYOKE (see HOLYOKE).
Here is the junction with US 5 (see Tour 15).
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Sec. c. HOLYOKE to CONNECTICUT LINE, 21.2 m.
This section of US 202 crosses a mountain range with wooded slopes to a typical Connecticut Valley farming country in which tobacco-raising and dairying are among the principal industries.
US 202 continues south through the outskirts of Holyoke; at 5.8 m. are Hampden Ponds.
At 8.9 m. is the junction with State 10 (see Tour 15C) and at 10.9 m. is the junction with Pochassic St.
Right on Pochassic St. at 0.3 m. is Montgomery St .; right on this street, which rises steadily through a region of hills ranging in height from 400 to 1400 feet; at 6.5 m. (R) is a clear view of Mt. Holyoke and the Holyoke Range.
MONTGOMERY, 6.9 m. (town, alt. 332, pop. 174, sett. before 1767, incorp. 1780), was named in honor of General Richard Montgomery. The exact date of its early settlement is unknown, but on a beam in the Kelso barn is the inscription 'M.M. 1744'; it is known that Ephraim Avery brought his family here in 1767. According to a tale, the Rev. Seth Noble, the first pastor of the Congregational Church (1797), was so inordinately fond of the hymn 'Bangor' and called for it so frequently that his congregation first protested and then dismissed him in 1806. He went to a settlement in that part of Massachusetts that later became the State of Maine and after its incorporation represented his town in the legislature. Evidently the clergyman's favorite hymn was more appreciated in Maine, for it gave the name to the town: Bangor.
At 10.5 m. on Montgomery St. is the junction with a road (impassable in bad weather) that winds through dense woods to Hockhouse Mountain, 2.5 m., whose cliffs rise sheer to a height of 150 feet. A natural ledge trail, by which the face of the cliff can be scaled, leads along a wall of rock. During summer the widespread forests show the dark green of pines, junipers, hemlocks, and cedars; in the autumn, the hardwood trees set a higher key with their flaming red, yellow, green, gold, and russet.
WESTFIELD, 11.2 m. (see Tour 4), is a prosperous business and cultural center at the junction with US 20 (see Tour 4).
At 14.6 m. is the Captain David Fowler House (open) built 1747, now known as Old English House. In its center are the remains of a dark room, built of brick, for protection in the event of Indian attack. Parts of the central chimney are still standing.
SOUTHWICK, 17.1 m. (town, alt. 260, pop. 1540, sett. 1770, incorp. 1775), was named for an English village. The chief products of this agricultural town are tobacco and potatoes. During the winter, ice is harvested in large quantities on the Congamond Lakes, east of the village.
Right from Southwick, State 57 runs through a beautiful Gorge 4 m. Sodom Moun- tain (alt. 1126), a rocky ledge, rises (L) abruptly from the roadside and the waters of Munn Brook (R) barely visible from the highway, are heard gurgling and splash- ing about the foot of the ledge. The gorge is thickly wooded with hemlock and deciduous trees.
State 57 winds up the mountain-side with wooded banks rising abruptly (R) and mounded hilltops (L). GRANVILLE CENTER, 6.6 m. (alt. 720, pop. 704, sett. 1736, incorp. 1775, town of Granville), situated on the old Massasoit Indian Trail, which followed the Little River Gorge, was settled by Springfield folk. On Liberty Hill stands the Liberty Pole, symbol of the town's Revolutionary en- thusiasm. Shays's Rebellion found many sympathizers here, and a local official. was held captive by the rebels. Another captive was a deacon, who prayed so hard
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From Rindge, N.H., to Granby, Conn.
that he converted the rebels to his idea of marching to Springfield and surrendering. Today the town is chiefly engaged in the manufacture of toys.
The Granville Community Building, 7.7 m., is a recent structure in neo-classic style. The building has a portico with six Greek Ionic columns. A fanlight over the front portico relieves the severity of the façade. At each end of the structure is a porte-cochere supported by four columns. Ancient maple trees line the roadside at the bottom of the sloping lawn.
East of the Community Building, 0.1 m. on State 57, is a beautiful two-story white frame residence with identical front, north and east sides, and elaborate center entrance and many windows. Fine cornices and graceful fanlights add to the dignity of the structure, which is enhanced by elm and maple trees set at irregular intervals on the sloping lawn.
At 7.8 m. is the junction with a dirt road; right on this road, which crosses Trumble Brook, the outlet of a lovely little pond, to a foot trail at 1.7 m. that leads to the Fire Tower on Sweetman Mountain. The road continues through hilly wooded country to the junction with a road (R) at 3.6 m. on which at 4 m. is a view of the Cobble Mountain Reservoir. This road follows the banks of the reservoir and crosses the Cobble Mountain Dam, an unusually high earth structure. This dam impounds water not only for the city of Springfield, but also for power development. A right turn at 4.5 m. leads over a shoulder of Cobble Mountain to an open space at 5.9 m. where (L) is the so-called Surge Chamber, a cylindrical metal tube rising to a height of 207 feet, designed to absorb back pressure in the water tunnels when the gates are closed. The gorge of the Westfield Little River far below stretches to the east- ward, while a high hill rises directly opposite.
The little brick building at the base of the Surge Chamber houses only the valve machinery, the power plant itself being in the bottom of the gorge near the river bank and accessible only by a long and circuitous road.
State 57 winds through hill country to WEST GRANVILLE (alt. 1200, town of Granville), 12 m. A fine two-story square brick Colonial house having a low roof and four chimneys is between the church and the new brick schoolhouse.
At 12.9 m. on State 57 is the junction with a road (L) running into the Granville State Forest, 0.6 m., covering 4582 acres (tenting, camping, picnicking). A number of pleasant trails wind along Hubbard River discovering several ponds. This forest has more rolling terrain than most of the western Massachusetts forests.
Along State 57 at 13.1 m. are beautiful beds of mountain laurel.
TOLLAND, 15.8 m. (town, alt. 1540, pop. 141, sett. about 1750, incorp. 1810), named for a town in Wales, has always been an agricultural community. Cattle- raising and dairying are the chief occupations. Many years ago an attempt was made to grow tobacco, and, while the effort was not a failure, the results seemed not to justify continuance.
At 16.7 m. a foot trail (R) leaves State 57 and leads by Noyes Pond to Noyes Mountain (alt. 1700), 3.5 m. From the Fire Tower at the summit a striking view of the countryside is obtained.
At 17.3 m. on State 57 is a junction with an unnumbered road; right on this road is Noyes Pond, 2.4 m. (State controlled; fishing). On the southern shores are the camps and game preserve of the exclusive Tunxis Club (private).
At 17.8 m. is a junction with a dirt road.
Right on this road are the scattered homes of the descendants of the Congamuck Indians, a racial strain so mixed now with white and Negro blood that the Federal Government no longer officially considers the people Indians.
At 19.3 m. is a junction with dirt road.
Left on this road are the Congamond Lakes, a series of narrow sheets of water about 3 m. in length.
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The Roger Moore House (private), 20.4 m. (L), erected in 1736, is a two-and-a-half-story, gabled house with a central chimney.
At 21.2 m. US 202 crosses the Connecticut Line, 8 m. north of Granby, Conn.
TOUR 14 : NEW BEDFORD-MARTHA'S VINEYARD - NANTUCKET, 115 m.
Steamship Service: New England Steamship Co., Front St .: From New Bedford to Woods Hole, 174 hrs., 75€; to Martha's Vineyard, 2 hrs., $1; to Nantucket, 4 hrs., $2.20 - round trip, $4.10. Car transportation $5-$8. Sailings every 3 hrs. in summer. Special excursion rates.
Airplane Service (summer only): From New Bedford to Martha's Vineyard, $5.50; from Boston to Nantucket, 40 min., $7.50.
Sightseeing busses at each port.
Hard-surfaced roads encircling islands.
Sec. a. NEW BEDFORD to MARTHA'S VINEYARD, 35 m. 1
LEAVING the wharf in New Bedford, the steamer swings out into the lower Acushnet River and heads southeast toward Buzzard's Bay, passing between Fort Phoenix (L), of Revolutionary fame, in Fairhaven (see Tour 6) and the more modern Fort Rodman (R) at the southern extremity of New Bedford (see NEW BEDFORD). To the right of Fort Rodman can be seen Round Hill, the estate of the late Colonel E. H. R. Green, where the old whaler, 'Charles W. Morgan,' rests at her final mooring.
The low-lying ELIZABETH ISLANDS (see GOSNOLD) loom up ahead in Buzzard's Bay, pass to the right as the vessel enters Woods Hole Channel, a narrow passage between the northernmost of the islands and the mainland of Cape Cod. On rare occasions, heavy tide-runs force the steamers to use Quick's Hole, a passage farther south.
The ELIZABETH ISLANDS (mostly privately owned), a long fringe stretching out into Buzzard's Bay from the Falmouth shore, reached only by small boat, constitute GOSNOLD (town, alt. Io, pop. 129, sett. 1641, incorp. 1864), named for Bartholomew Gosnold, who, in 1602, settled temporarily on the island of Cuttyhunk. In 1641, Thomas Mayhew was given authority to 'plant' upon the islands, and some generations later they were included in the Lordship and Manor of Martha's Vineyard.
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