USA > Massachusetts > Massachusetts : a guide to its places and people > Part 64
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In the last decade of the 18th century, William Dorrell came to Leyden and began to teach a philosophy of life founded on doctrines of free love and the unalterable sanctity of life, animal as well as human. He gained followers who joined him in religious demonstrations that shocked the community until the order was ex- tinguished by Ezekiel Foster in 1800. Dorrell continued to live in Leyden until, at the age of 94, he starved himself to death, declaring he had lived long enough.
At 3.1 m. is a marker designating the Site of Burke Fort (1738) where 50 persons took shelter during the French and Indian War. After the raid on Deerfield in 1704, the Indians crossed the waterfalls near the village on a crude log bridge; one of the women captives, unable to keep her footing, fell into the rapids and was dashed to death.
BERNARDSTON, 4.7 m. (town, alt. 353, pop. 975, sett. 1738, incorp. 1762), was formerly called Falls Fight Township, owing to an encounter in 1676 between the settlers and the Indians. The name was shortened to Fall Town and later changed to Bernardstown, in honor of Sir Francis Barnard, Provincial Governor of Massachusetts under George III. Four forts were built about 1736, and the first 24 years after the settlement were spent in intermittent warfare. Dairy farming is at present the chief means of livelihood, though there have been attempts at indus- trial development.
In Bernardston is the junction with State 10 (see Tour 15A).
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High Roads and Low Roads
At the center of GREENFIELD, 11.5 m. (see Tour 2), is the junction with State 2, the Mohawk Trail (see Tour 2).
At 14.3 m. is DEERFIELD (see DEERFIELD).
SOUTH DEERFIELD, 19.6 m. (alt. 204), is at the junction with State 116 (see Tour 15B). In front of the Deerfield High School 0.4 m., north of the center on US 5, runs Bloody Brook, scene of a massacre on Sept. 18, 1675. Captain Lathrop and 84 men had been sent to Deerfield to convoy harvested grain to Hadley in 17 wagons furnished and driven by Deerfield people. Ambushed while fording a sluggish brook, 63, including Captain Lathrop and all the teamsters, were killed by the Indians. A common grave 200 feet south of the monument is marked by a flat slab.
South of Deerfield, US 5 passes through a tobacco-growing district. On both sides of the highway stretch wide fields which, in spring, look like velvety blue-green carpets. On them are tobacco barns, easily recognized because their sides, instead of being solid, are equipped with ventilating shutters that permit the air to circulate freely through the drying leaves.
At 22.1 m. is a junction with an unnumbered road.
Right on this road across Mill River, 0.2 m. to a crossroad at 0.3 m.
I. Left on this road is WHATELY, 0.4 m. (town, alt. 183, pop. 1133, sett. 1672, incorp. 1771), named by Governor Hutchinson for Thomas Whately of England. Although primarily an agricultural community, a variety of articles have been made here from time to time, including machinist tools, brooms, spinning wheels, and pottery. Today, the chief products are tobacco and onions.
2. Right on this road is Whately Glen Park (privately owned; nominal fee), 3 m., a charming spot in a deep ravine down which flows Roaring Brook. On the east bank is the Old Man of the Glen, a rock bearing a striking resemblance to a human face. Another natural wonder is a waterfall 25 feet high, known as the Maiden's Plunge.
At 27.4 m. is WEST HATFIELD (alt. 120).
Left from West Hatfield is HATFIELD, 2 m. (town, alt. 160, pop. 2433, sett. 1661, incorp. 1670). The year 1675 witnessed an attack here by about 800 Indians, who were repulsed after great slaughter. A captive squaw alleged to have divulged the plans of the Indians was thrown by her tribe to savage dogs who tore her limb from limb. In 1677 the town suffered another attack. Twelve inhabitants were killed and many were taken captive; in the winter of 1677-78, Stephen Jennings and Benjamin Waite of Hadley paddled to Quebec, where, with the aid of Governor Frontenac and a ransom of £200, they secured the release of their wives and children, captured by the Indians in this attack.
The Sophia Smith Homestead (open), 75 Main St., built in 1790, was the birthplace (1796) and home of the founder of Smith College (see NORTHAMPTON). In 1915 the Alumnae Association purchased the frame two-story dwelling and the class of 1896 restored and refurnished it. Sophia Smith's uncle, Oliver Smith, left an immense fortune to the 'Smith Charities.' The probate hearing, at which the will was unsuccessfully contested by relatives, brought Rufus Choate and Daniel Webster together as opposing lawyers.
Noted educators born in Hatfield were Colonel Ephraim Williams (1715), founder of Williams College (see WILLIAMSTOWN), the Rev. Jonathan Dickinson (1688), first president of the institution that later became Princeton University, and Elisha Williams, president of Yale (1726-39).
565
From Guilford, Vermont, to Thompsonville, Conn.
The chief crop produced in the town is onions, with tobacco a close second. The consolidation of tobacco companies, with their consequent control over the price of raw products, has caused many former tobacco farmers to turn to potato-raising.
NORTHAMPTON, 31.4 m. (see NORTHAMPTON), is at the junction with State 9 (see Tour 8) and State 10 (see Tour 15C).
At 33 m. US 5 runs in open country, affording a fine view of Mt. Holyoke and Mt. Tom, separated by the Connecticut River. Oxbow Lake at 33.3 m. was formed by a change in the channel of the Connecticut.
At 35.8 m., Smith's Ferry, is the Holyoke Canoe Club, a recreational center for water sports, baseball and tennis. Opposite is the entrance to the Mt. Tom Reservation (see HOLYOKE).
US 5 follows Northampton St., a residential thoroughfare.
At 39.6 m. is HOLYOKE (see HOLYOKE), the junction with US 202 (see Tour 13).
At 46.7 m. on Meeting House Hill (R) at the junction with State 5A (see Tour 15D), is White Church, now the Masonic Temple, in the tower of which hangs a Revere bell.
In WEST SPRINGFIELD, 48.8 m. (see Tour 4), is the junction with US 20 (see Tour 4).
At 49.1 m. US 5 crosses the Hampden County Memorial Bridge over the Connecticut River.
In SPRINGFIELD, 49.9 m. (see SPRINGFIELD), is the junction with State 116 (see Tour 15B) and US 20 (see Tour 4).
At 50.3 m. is the junction with State 83.
Left on State 83 is EAST LONGMEADOW, 4.3 m. (town, alt. 237, pop. 3375, sett. about 1740, incorp. 1894). Fertile soil here has lent itself to market garden- ing, poultry farming, and the development of apple orchards. At the sheds, border- ing the railroad west of the center, the local sandstone is cut according to specifica- tions. For more than a century after 1740, East Longmeadow quarried a sand- stone, sometimes called 'brownstone,' for export. As many as 20 carloads a day were shipped. Of recent years, however, Indiana limestone has superseded sand- stone as a building material so that very little is now cut.
Right from the center, Shaker Rd. leads over the Connecticut Line to the Connecti- cut Prison Farm, 3 m. The buildings were originally occupied by Shakers.
At 5.5 m. on State 83 is an Abandoned Quarry now filled with water and popular as a swimming hole.
At 5.9.m. is the junction with an unnumbered road; left here to HAMPDEN, 10 m. (town, alt. 300, pop. 854, sett. about 1741, incorp. 1878), an isolated com- munity cut off from the rest of the world by lack of roads. A good yarn is that of Kibbe's shirt. An alarm being raised on the Sabbath Day that Indians were com- ing, Kibbe ran into the woods to get his cow. He took his gun with him, although hunting was forbidden on the Lord's Day. Not long after he entered the woods, two shots were heard; he, knowing that he was in danger of punishment for Sab- bath-breaking, came running out of the woods yelling, 'Indians! Indians!' The searchers saw no savages, but at his request they examined Kibbe's shirt. There were two holes in the shirt, but none in Kibbe. He finally confessed that he had been tempted by Satan to shoot at some handy game and had then made holes in his own shirt to escape punishment. Old-timers say that this was the only actual (sic!) Indian alarm in Hampden history.
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High Roads and Low Roads
The demand for a light tobacco has destroyed the market which Hampden for- merly had for its dark crop. Dairying and market gardening are now the chief oc- cupations.
Anice Terhune, wife of Albert Payson Terhune, is a daughter of Hampden. Her novels, 'The Boarder Up at Em's' and 'Eyes of the Village,' contain characters said to be local townspeople. Thornton Burgess, author of stories for children, owns an estate here. Opposite the Town Hall is a general store, where lively dis- cussions are carried on during the winter months when the farmers feel the need of warming up around the comfortable stove before beginning the cold drive home.
US 5 here traverses the long fertile plain bordering the east bank of the Connecticut River and follows Longmeadow St., wide and elm-shaded, bordered by homes.
LONGMEADOW, 52.6 m. (town, alt. 55, pop. 5105, sett. 1644, incorp. 1783), the 'long meddowe' purchased from the Indians in 1636, rapidly became a substantial settlement. During King Philip's War, after months of confinement in their homes, a party ventured out to attend worship in the parent community at Springfield. On their way they were attacked by Indians, who killed some, wounded others, and took a few captive.
In 1709 there was a general removal to the more elevated section of the town owing to frequent inundations by the Connecticut River. Long- meadow was the first town in the State incorporated after the recognition of American independence. At the close of the War of 1812, so lively was the expression of happiness over the cessation of hostilities that the church bell cracked of its own pealing. The natural beauty of this town has been enhanced by skillful landscaping, and the once quiet farming community is now a delightful residential and social center.
Local genealogical records are unusually complete because, it is said, Jabez Colton carried a notebook and inkhorn with him wherever he went.
William Sheldon, who died in 1874, was a courtly local gentleman of the old school who devoted himself successively to the mysteries of the Scrip- tures, Spiritualism, Magnetism, and the Od forces. His records, replete with impressive statistics, tell how his odic apparatus, charged with mystic power, arrested an epidemic of cholera in the South, and also the Russian plague.
Aaron Burt, a local hermit of the past, occasionally made ceremonious trips to the village, dressed in sheepskin like a prophet of old, and fol- lowed by a bullock, a heifer, a sheep, a cow, and a pig - all adorned with ribbons. He was a pious fellow after his own lights, and, when attending worship, frequently broke out into song to the confusion of the congrega- tion; the 'Indian Philosopher,' far from a hymn, appears to have been his favorite. At other times he rose and, taking the service out of the mouth of the flustered minister, delivered a stentorian harangue denouncing the sins of his generation.
At Storrs Parsonage (open July-Aug.), 697 Longmeadow St., owned by the Longmeadow Historical Society, is a fine collection of Colonial furni- ture. Just off Longmeadow St. is the Municipal Swimming Pool, from the
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567
From Hinsdale, N.H., to Bernardston
outlet of which flows a pretty brook through a rustic glen, popular with lovers and picnickers.
At No. 674 Longmeadow St. is the house where Eleazar Williams (1787- 1858), who called himself the 'Lost Prince,' received his education. Williams's strong resemblance to the Bourbons of France gave rise to the supposition that he was the missing Dauphin, Louis XVII, a rumor to which Eleazar apparently felt little aversion. His story forms the basis of three novels highly popular in their day.
At 55 m. US 5 crosses the Connecticut State Line, 20.4 m. north of Hartford, Conn.
TOUR 15A: From NEW HAMPSHIRE LINE (Hinsdale) to BERNARDSTON, 8.5 m., State 10.
Via Northfield. B. & M. R.R. parallels the route. Hard-surfaced road.
THIS section of State 10 passes through a part of the Connecticut Valley characterized by broad meadows stretching out to rolling hills and heavily wooded uplands.
State 10 crosses the New Hampshire Line 20 m. south of Hinsdale, N.H., and enters a typical New England village community with a long main street shaded by great elms planted in 1815.
At 1 m. is Northfield Seminary (see NORTHFIELD).
NORTHFIELD, 2.5 m. (see NORTHFIELD).
Southwest of Northfield, State 10 crosses the Connecticut River. At 4.1 m. is a hill with the Site of King Philip's Camp. The stump of a large look- out tree together with defense trenches are on top.
At 4.9 m. is the entrance to Mount Hermon School for Boys, founded in 1881 by Dwight L. Moody (see NORTHFIELD) after the success of Northfield Seminary. It is a preparatory school of high standard that attempts to develop boys mentally and spiritually. Students spend two hours each day helping with farm work and care of buildings. It has a 1300-acre campus with 80 buildings and a large student body.
At 8.5 m. is BERNARDSTON (see Tour 15) at the junction with US 5.
TOUR 15 B: From ADAMS to SPRINGFIELD, 70.5 m., State 116.
Via Savoy, Hawley, Plainfield, Ashfield, Conway, Deerfield, Sunderland, Leverett, Amherst, South Hadley, Holyoke, and Chicopee.
B. & M. R.R. services this area.
Between Adams and Conway: hilly, part dirt roadbed, bad traveling in winter. Between Conway and Springfield: good conditions, open road.
SOUTH of Adams, State 116 passes through sparsely settled, hilly country. South of Deerfield are the flat lands of the Connecticut Valley with fields of tobacco and onions.
State 116 branches southeast from the junction with State 8 (see Tour 21) in Adams.
At 1.4 m. (R) is the Old Brown House (open), built 1778 by Eleazar Brown. The interior is low-ceiled, with plain paneled walls and wide floor boards. In the front yard is an old well-sweep. From the rear of the house is a view across the valley to beautiful Mt. Greylock.
At 2.6 m. is the junction with a dirt road.
Right on this road at 1.3 m. is Stafford Hill, on the top of which is the site of the first settlement in Cheshire (see Tour 21), known as New Providence. Here there is a replica of an old mill at Newport, R.I., the Norse Monument, an open circular tower about 20 feet high, built of field-stone.
At 4.4 m. begins a gradual ascent with views of the Greylock Range (R). SAVOY, 7.8 m. (town, alt. 1880, pop. 299, sett. 1777, incorp. 1797), is often called Savoy Hollow. One of the town's chief exports is Christmas trees. A typical section of young evergreens (spruce) being grown for this trade is at 9.1 m. (R).
State 116 continues through rather desolate country, the highest in Hampshire County.
Plainfield Pond, 12.2 m. (alt. 1720), is a lonely mountain lake surrounded by dense forests of spruce, white birch and hemlock.
At 13.1 m. State 116 turns sharply and descends steeply, affording a view of the winding valley. An Old Sugar House with a ventilated roof is left at 14 m.
PLAINFIELD, 15.5 m. (town, alt. 1660, pop. 332, sett. 1770, incorp. 1807), reached its industrial peak between 1850 and 1860; since then its manufacturing has dwindled away.
On the left in the village are the Ruins of the Mill of Joseph Beals, hero of Charles Dudley Warner's poem, 'The Mountain Miller.
On the Site of the School Attended by William Cullen Bryant and main -. tained by the Rev. Moses Hallock is the present village schoolhouse.
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569
From Adams to Springfield
Left from Plainfield, on a road running between the church and town hall, is the Birthplace of Charles Dudley Warner (1829-1900) (private), 1.1 m., a farmhouse standing (R) at some distance from the road. Warner was an editor and popular author; he collaborated with Mark Twain in writing 'The Gilded Age.'
At 1.2 m. the road bears right, and then left at a crossroads, 2.4 m. At intervals along this road, the ranges to the north are visible.
HAWLEY, 3.8 m. (town, alt. 1760, pop. 380, sett. 1771, incorp. 1792), is a hilly, rural town, named in honor of Joseph Hawley, a leader of the opposition to the revivalist preaching of Jonathan Edwards and prominent in the Revolutionary struggle in western Massachusetts.
Between Plainfield and Spruce Corner, State 116 is a dirt road, bordered with apple orchards. The country is hilly and wooded, with occasional farms that have been converted into summer estates.
SPRUCE CORNER, 20.1 m. (alt. 1478, Town of Ashfield), is a cross- roads settlement.
State 116 climbs to cross a series of hills, the highest of which is 1775 feet in altitude. At 24.1 m. (L) is the Ashfield Country Club with a course descriptively nicknamed 'The Mountain Goat Course.' This is a scenic area, popular with artists.
ASHFIELD, 24.4 m. (town, alt. 1360, pop. 918, sett. about 1743, incorp. 1765), unlike most New England towns, has no Green.
The Town Hall (R), originally the Ashfield Church (1814), has a fine Wren-type spire.
Sanderson Academy, occupying a two-story frame building constructed in 1888, with porte-cochère, dentiled cornices, and an octagonal belfry, was founded in 1816, and was early celebrated as having been attended by Mary Lyon, founder of Mount Holyoke College, who, after graduation, taught for a time on its staff.
Left from Ashfield on State 112 to a road junction at 0.2 m .; straight ahead on this road to (R) Great Pond, 0.6 m. (picnic grounds; bathing).
At 1.8 m. on this road is the junction (R) with Apple Valley Rd., which runs 1.2 m. to the beautiful orchards that give the valley its name.
On the road passing Great Pond is, at 1.9 m., a magnificent mountain vista.
At 26 m. where State 116 bears left is the junction with a road.
Right (straight ahead) on the side road through heavily wooded hilly country is a cement bridge over Poland Brook at the head of Chapel Falls, 2.3 m. Just beyond the bridge, left on a footpath, following the bank of the brook, is the foot of the falls. The waters tumble in a series of cascades over a solid rock bed with moss- covered sides.
State 116 passes Mt. Owen (alt. 1400) (L), and enters the deep valley of the South River.
At 30.7 m. is the junction with a hard-surfaced road.
Right on this road across a Covered Bridge, one of the few remaining in Massa- chusetts, the road runs up through high farming country with rolling pastures extending to the base of heavily wooded mountains. The little village of Conway is visible below in the deep valley. At 1.7 m. the road runs between majestically towering cliffs. It traverses wild forest at 2.9 m. and crosses a small bridge; left, a sparkling brook dashes over rocks.
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High Roads and Low Roads
CONWAY, 31.5 m. (town, alt. 300, pop. 952, sett. 1762, incorp. 1786), formerly a part of Deerfield, was named for General Henry Conway, a member of the British ministry popular in the Colonies after he secured the repeal of the Stamp Act in 1766. Indian attacks retarded its early settlement. Always predominantly agricultural, Conway, in the early 19th century, reached its industrial peak, with woolen and cotton mills, tanneries, grist and oil mills, and factories making broadcloth, cutlery, combs and tinware. Marshall Field (1834-1906), the Chicago merchant, was born here.
The Marshall Field Memorial Library (L), given by Marshall Field in 1885, a limestone structure with a circular dome and roof of copper, con- tains a fine historical collection.
Right from Conway to the Conway Town Forest on Cricket Hill (alt. 1100), 0.1 m. East of Conway, State 116 passes through a rocky cut, displaying (R) banded gneiss. For about a mile stately pines arch the highway.
SOUTH DEERFIELD, 37.9 m. (alt. 208, Town of Deerfield), is at the junction with US 5 (see Tour 15).
At 39.5 m. State 116 crosses the Connecticut River on a new bridge replacing one washed away in the flood of 1936.
SUNDERLAND, 39.7 m. (town, alt. 142, pop. 1182, sett. about 1713, incorp. 1718), granted to the inhabitants of Hadley in 1673, had to be abandoned during King Philip's War. Forty years later, the land, known as Swampfield, was granted anew, this time to 40 proprietors who divided it into lots.
The early industries included potash manufacturing, milling, hat and saddle manufacturing, and the home manufacture of covered buttons and braided palmleaf hats. Today the inhabitants specialize in growing tobacco, onions, and oats.
Left from Sunderland on State 63 at 0.1 m. (L) is a Giant Sycamore Tree, one of the largest of this species in New England. At 1.4 m. is the entrance (R) to Tay- lor Park (open, privately owned). At 0.2 m. along the roadway into the park, a trail leads left across a little brook; then right and a short distance along the bank to a high cliff over which the water flows.
At 1.5 m. is a fine view to the rear of Mt. Sugarloaf (alt. 709).
At 3.2 m. is the junction with a path leading 200 feet across a farm (ask permission to enter grounds) to a Cave penetrating a spur of Mt. Toby (alt. 1275) for 150 feet and emerging on the far side. The path to the cave passes an interesting formation, Chimney Rocks.
The highway south of Sunderland is lined with maples, many over 200 years old. The sugar maples of the area are a source of revenue to the farmers.
At 42.6 m. is the junction with a dirt road.
Left on this road at 1.4 m. is the junction with a second road; left on this second road at 3.3 m. is a road leading left into the woods to a picnic ground (fireplaces) in the Mt. Toby State Demonstration Forest, an area of 755 wooded acres. Roaring Brook is here, cascading down the side of Mt. Toby; a narrow wooded path winds around the mountain and up the Summit of Mt. Toby (alt. 1275), where a fire. tower commands a panorama of the Connecticut River Valley.
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57I
From Northampton to Westfield
At 3.2 m. on the main dirt road is LEVERETT (town, alt. 430, pop. 726, sett. about 1713, incorp. 1775), which has a box factory opened in 1875 and still in opera- tion; the town also produces charcoal, maple sugar and maple syrup. Early indus- tries were shingle and textile mills, tanneries and a shoe factory.
The Field Tavern or Bradford Field House (open by permission), west of the Center, has a sharply gabled, many-windowed ell, built about 1790. The old barroom upstairs and a large collection of old relics are of interest.
North of Leverett the road crosses an open country; right at 3.6 m., then left to Rattle Snake Gutter, a ravine with steep stones, crags, and ledges.
At 4.5 m. (R) is a steep grass-grown slope; across a ravine is a perpendicular cliff honeycombed by small caves.
AMHERST, 47.3 m. (see AMHERST), is at the junction with State 9 (see Tour 8).
At 52.8 m. State 116 passes through the Notch, a natural pass pink and white with laurel in late spring, and winds its way down the wooded slope of the Mt. Holyoke Range.
At 57.2 m. is SOUTH HADLEY (see SOUTH HADLEY).
At 59.9 m. is the junction with US 202 (see Tour 13) in SOUTH HADLEY FALLS.
Between this point and HOLYOKE, 61.6 m. (see HOLYOKE), State 116 and US 202 (see Tour 13) are united.
In Holyoke, State 116 turns left and recrosses the Connecticut River. CHICOPEE, 66.3 m. (see CHICOPEE).
The route turns right on Sargent St., Springfield, at Memorial Square, 69.3 m., and left on Columbus Ave., 69.4 m.
SPRINGFIELD, 70.5 m. (see SPRINGFIELD).
Here is the junction with US 20 (see Tour 4) and US 5 (see Tour 15).
TOUR 15C: From NORTHAMPTON to WESTFIELD, 14.6 m., State 10.
Via Easthampton and Southampton.
Hard-surfaced road open all seasons.
STATE 10 branches southeast from US 5 (see Tour 15) at Northampton and passes through a rolling countryside, the heart of a prosperous farm- ing country. This road is known as College Highway because it very con- veniently connects Smith College and Yale University.
At 4.3 m. is the Manhan Bridge, from which are seen the remains of the old
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High Roads and Low Roads
Northampton-New Haven Canal, and the Site of the Old Storehouse where the canal boats used to stop.
EASTHAMPTON, 4.7 m. (town, alt. 169, pop. 10,846, sett. 1664, incorp. 1809), began industrial development in 1780, but the real foundation of its industries was laid in 1822 by Samuel Williston. Williston and his wife began by covering wooden button molds with cloth. At the end of ten years, during which time he engaged over a thousand families and spread his distribution to larger cities, Williston financed some mechanics in the construction of a button-making machine, and organized Williston, Knight & Co. About 1848 the first elastic-web mill in America was mak- ing shoe goring here. The looms were imported from England and skilled weavers were brought over to use them. By 1927 a dozen large factories had been established, most of them producing yarn, thread, buttons, and elastic.
Williston Academy, a boys' preparatory school, is between Main and Union Sts. and Payson Ave. The new campus begins at the dignified home of the principal; the sections of the fence around this property were given by the various classes, and are of wrought iron.
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