USA > Massachusetts > Massachusetts : a guide to its places and people > Part 65
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Left from the village on Union St .; at 0.5 m. is the junction with a road leading (L) to a farm-road at 1.4 m. On this road is the Old East Street Cemetery, with a beautiful memorial fence and gates, a picturesque spot lying in the shadow of the Mt. Tom Range.
Straight ahead at 1.7 m. is East St., which leads (L) to the Pascommuck Boulder, 2.7 m., where an Indian massacre occurred in 1704.
At 6.3 m. (R) is a fine vista of the Berkshire Hills.
The bed of the Northampton-New Haven Canal is readily traced at 7.6 m. This waterway, completed at a cost of $1,000,000 in 1835, was in use until 1847.
ยท Mt. Pomeroy (alt. 1233) is right at 8.1 m. In 1704, Mrs. Benjamin Janes, taken prisoner by Indians in retreat from a raid on Pascommuck, was scalped and left to die on its summit; she was found by friends, however, and recovered.
SOUTHAMPTON, 8.9 m. (town, alt. 229, pop. 954, sett. 1732, incorp. 1775), was named for Southampton, England. Tanneries, grist and cider mills, whip factories, and blacksmith shops were once important to the town. In the 19th century sawmills and woodworking enterprises used up the timber supply, and today agriculture is the main support of the community.
On a hill behind the Old Southampton Church is the Old Edwards House (private), where the townspeople took refuge during the French and Indian War raids. Charred spots on the floors, made when the refugees did their cooking, are still visible.
At 13.7 m. a Monument to the 104th Infantry of the 26th (Yankee) Divi- sion, recruited on this site in the spring of 1917, bears a bas-relief showing the presentation of the regiment's citation in France, April 26, 1918, for. signal bravery.
At 14.6 m. is the junction with US 202 (see Tour 13).
TOUR 15D : From WEST SPRINGFIELD to CON- NECTICUT LINE (Suffield), 6.5 m., State 5A.
Via Agawam.
Macadam paving, condition fair.
STATE 5A parallels the west bank of the Connecticut River and passes through a suburban area.
State 5A proceeds southwest from its junction with US 5 (see Tour 15) at Riverdale.
At 0.7 m. is WEST SPRINGFIELD (see Tour 4), at which is the junction with US 20 (see Tour 4).
At 2 m. is junction with State 57.
Left on State 57 at 0.2 m. is STORROWTOWN (open all year), a perma- nent village on the Exposition Grounds, is a group of Colonial buildings brought here from their original sites. The ancient dwellings, with their old-fashioned walks and gardens, herb beds, carriage sheds and outhouses, the village Green with its white church dominating the peaceful scene, present a composite picture of early New England at its best. The Gilbert Homestead, built in 1794 in West Brookfield, is an admirable ex- ample of the massive construction of the period. The Lawyer's Office, built about 1806, was that of Zechariah Eddy, a contemporary and friend of Daniel Webster. The Potter House from North Brookfield was built in 1760 by Captain Potter, and the nails, latches, hinges, and the elabo- rate woodcarvings were made by his own hands. The Little Red School- house, a red-brick building with a small tower and belfry, was brought from Whately, and is furnished with red benches. The Blacksmith's Shop, built 1750, is from Chesterfield, the Meeting House, built 1834, from Salis- bury, the Phillips House, built 1767, from Taunton, and the Town House, built 1822, from Southwick. The Atkinson Tavern and Store was built about 1799 in Prescott; the living quarters and the store are separate, and the taproom in the latter is still in use.
At 0.4 m. on State 57 is the Eastern States Agricultural and Industrial Ex- position Grounds, 'The Show Window of the North Atlantic States,' a 175- acre tract equipped with permanent buildings. The educational value of the one-week annual exposition held in September is emphasized; more than 1000 boys and girls are brought to the display each year, all expenses paid, for a week of education and instruction. About 1000 exhibitors from 30 states and many Canadian provinces are present. Musical concerts and a horse show are major attractions.
At 3.9 m. is AGAWAM (town, alt. 85, pop. 7206, sett. 1635, incorp. 1855). The Agawam (Indian, Agaam, 'Crooked River') River meanders along
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the northern boundary of the town and gave it its name. Until 15 years ago an agricultural community, Agawam Town is now partly a residential suburb of Springfield. Near-by farms at Feeding Hills are engaged in market gardening, dairying, and poultry and tobacco raising.
Right from Agawam on a paved road is the Agawam Race Track at 2.5 m. Originally an airport, it was taken over by the Agawam Breeders' Association and converted to its present use in 1935. Several runways have been left, however.
At 6.5 m. State 5A crosses the Connecticut State Line 20 m. north of Hartford, Conn.
TOUR 17 : From VERMONT LINE (Pownal) to CON- NECTICUT LINE (North Canaan), 55 m., US 7.
Via (sec. a) Williamstown, Hancock, New Ashford, Lanesborough, and Pitts- field; (sec. b) Lenox, Stockbridge, Great Barrington, and Sheffield.
B. & M., B. & A., and N.Y., N.H. & H. R.R.'s service this area. Road is hard-surfaced throughout.
Sec. a. VERMONT STATE LINE to PITTSFIELD, 23.6 m.
US 7 is a scenic route between Vermont and Connecticut. South of the Vermont Line the road runs under Mt. Greylock and the Berkshire Hills and over the divide into the Housatonic Valley between the Hoosac and Taconic Ranges.
US 7 crosses the Vermont Line 13 m. south of Bennington, Vt. WILLIAMSTOWN, 2.3 m. (see WILLIAMSTOWN), is at the junction (L.) with State 2 (see Tour 2) which unites with US 7 for several miles. At 4.7 m. is the junction (R) with State 2 (see Tour 2).
At 5.6 m. is a view (L) of Mt. Greylock, identified by the marble shaft on its summit.
At 6.7 m. is SOUTH WILLIAMSTOWN (alt. 604, Town of Williams- town) and the junction with State 43.
Right from South Williamstown on State 43, which runs through a river valley, at 4 m. (R) is the Edward Howe Forbush Wild Life Sanctuary, a 500-acre reserva- tion presented to the Commonwealth by the Federated Bird Clubs of New England and named for the ornithologist. Here are many varieties of birds, and fox and deer roam the woods.
At 9.8 m. on State 43 is the junction with the Sky Line Trail, which runs left through the Pittsfield State Forest 3 m. to Berry Pond (alt. 1013), set in a lovely dale and bounded on one side by the "Ope of Promise,' a favorite hill of the Shakers. The Trail continues to the summit of Tower Mountain (alt. 2185), 3.5 m., from which is a view of the Lebanon and Hudson Rivers, Equinox Mountain, and the Con- necticut Hills.
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From Pownal, Vermont, to North Canaan, Conn.
HANCOCK, 10.1 m. on State 43 (town, alt. 1020, pop. 408, sett. 1767, incorp. 1776), first known as Jericho because of the high natural walls surrounding it, was given its present name to honor John Hancock. Though it at one time had gristmills and tanneries, it could not compete with rival industrial centers and is now a dairy- ing community.
US 7 at 9 m., starts an ascent, crossing and recrossing the Green River (excellent trout fishing in season).
At 10.6 m. (R) is the Night Hill For Skiing (illuminated) maintained by the Mt. Greylock Ski Club of Pittsfield.
NEW ASHFORD, 11.1 m. (town, alt. 1350, pop. 94, sett. 1762, incorp. 1835), was settled by emigrants from Rhode Island and Connecticut. The region once contained valuable quarries of blue and white marble, which were worked for some 20 years, but the cost of transportation be- came too great to allow a profit, and New Ashford relapsed into the peace of a farming community. Josh Billings, famous humorist, spent most of his summers here.
At 12.2 m. Jones's Nose, a giant proboscis, is visible (L).
Red Bat Cave (open), (L) 12.5 m. was so named because of tiny red- headed bats found on its walls. The cave, made up of four chambers, is 100 feet long and 150 feet deep.
US 7 passes the foot of a watershed that separates the Hoosac Valley from the Housatonic Valley. At 12.7 m. is the entrance (R) to the Brody Mt. Ski Trails (adm. 15g).
At 15.1 m. (R) on Town Brook is State Tourist Park (fireplaces, benches, tables, wading pools, trout fishing, camping), located on what was once the roadbed.
At 16.3 m. is the junction with an improved road.
Right on this road to Disappearing Brook, 1.2 m. (entrance for cars; small fee), which flows underground and through caves. Quarry Cave near-by once supplied a fine white marble. In a field is Brown's Boulder crowned by a natural rock garden. Rising west is Potter's Mountain, long ago a favorite of Herman Melville, author of 'Moby Dick.'
At 16.6 m. is the junction with Rockwell or Tourist's Rd. (see Tour 17B), which leads to the summit of Mt. Greylock.
At 16.7 m. (R) stands an old house known as the British Headquarters, a two-and-a-half-story, weather-beaten, brown-clapboarded structure with green tar-paper strips on its slanting roof and a small, central, red-brick chimney.
LANESBOROUGH, 17.8 m. (town, alt. 1210, pop. 1237, sett. about 1753, incorp. 1765), was originally known as New Framingham, but was incorporated as Lanesborough in honor of the beautiful Irish Countess of Lanesborough, a court favorite and a friend of the then Governor of Massachusetts. Except for variegated and pure white marble quarried in 1842-43, farming has always been the source of livelihood.
Right from Lanesborough on Silver St. is Constitution Hill (R) 0.8 m., named in memory of Jonathan Smith, who in a well-timed speech swung the State for the ratification of the Federal Constitution.
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High Roads and Low Roads
At the foot of the hill is an old farmhouse, the Birthplace of Henry Wheeler Shaw (1818-85), the humorist known as 'Josh Billings.' His 'Essa on the Muel' brought him national fame, and an almanac with his proverb, 'Tu sta is tu win: A man can outliv a not hoal,' sold 430,000 copies. The house is still occupied by the Shaw family.
At 19.2 m. is the junction with a country road.
Right on this road past the north shore of Pontoosuc Lake is Balance Rock, 1.9 m. This triangular mass of limestone, weathered gray, and weighing 165 tons, is thought to have been carried here from some point east of the Hudson River by glacial action, and is so poised, three feet above the ground on another rock, that it vibrates when touched, although it cannot be dislodged.
US 7 follows the east shore of Pontoosuc Lake at 19.8 m. Across the lake is visible the Potter Mountain Group of the Taconic Range. Pontoosuc Lake Park (municipal bathhouses) on the south shore, embraces 30 acres of pine grove. It is usually crowded in summer.
US 7 swings past the old Pontoosuc Woolen Mill (R) established in 1825, and into Wahconah St., once bordered by textile mills, now vanished.
At about 22.8 m. is the junction with First St., an alternate route through Pittsfield.
Straight ahead on First St. to East St .; left on East St. to the south end of the city park, left on South St. (US 20).
PITTSFIELD, 23.6 m. (see PITTSFIELD) is at the junction with US 20 (see Tour 4).
Sec. b. PITTSFIELD to CONNECTICUT STATE LINE, US 7, 20, 7, 31.4 m.
Following the Housatonic Valley, US 7, united with US 20 for 6 m., winds between the Hoosac and Taconic Ranges and drops into level plains.
At 2 m. is the junction with a gravel road.
Right on this road 0.5 m. is the entrance to the South Mountain Music Colony. During the summer season a series of open-air concerts are given here by the Berkshire String Ensemble. Free instruction for promising young men and women is provided under the sponsorship of Mrs. Frederick Sprague Coolidge.
At 3.7 m. is the junction with New Lenox Rd.
Left on this road at 1.3 m. is NEW LENOX (alt. 1006, Town of Lenox). At 1.9 m. is the junction with a dirt road; right here to October Mountain State Forest (see Tour 8), a recreational area. Winding along the base of the mountain (L) the road crosses Roaring Brook at 2.3 m. In this area lies Tory Cave, which according to tradition was the hiding-place of Tories from Pittsfield during the Revolution.
At 6.1 m. (R) is the Church on the Hill (Congregational) designed by Charles Bulfinch and built in 1805. It is a simple, but well-studied frame meeting house, with square clock tower and octagonal belfry. Elms add serene dignity to the setting of this fine old church, which has been described as 'graceful without effort, solid and substantial without stolid- ness or dullness.'
LENOX, 6.6 m. (town, alt. 1210, pop. 2706, sett. about 1750, incorp. 1775), was named for Charles Lenox, Duke of Richmond, a defender of Colonial. rights. Industries in the town included an iron foundry, marble works, a
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From Pownal, Vermont, to North Canaan, Conn.
hearthstone mill, and a glass factory, but today only two tobacco mills operate. The town early became a summer resort with fine hotels and magnificent homes.
The Lenox Library (open daily in summer), at the town center, in the former County Courthouse, built 1816, has weekly exhibits of rare books and manuscripts. A side door opens into a shaded garden, with seats for readers.
The Lenox Boys' School (R), a group of fine, yellow-painted clapboarded buildings with extensive grounds, was formerly Mrs. Charles Sedgwick's School for Girls. Catherine Maria Sedgwick (1789-1867), first person to write of the natural beauties of the Berkshires, lived here.
Mrs. Edith Wharton's home, The Mount, is on the north shore of Laurel Lake. Here she was often visited by Henry James.
Right from Lenox on State 183 (Housatonic St.) at 1.5 m. (L) is the Lion Gate of the Dixey estate, on the grounds of which is the Site of the Hawthorne Cottage, the little red house, in which Hawthorne wrote 'The House of the Seven Gables.' This estate, of 210 acres, is to be used by the Boston Symphony Orchestra, which will give concerts each summer in a natural outdoor bowl. At 1.7 m. is the junction (R) with a dirt road, the entrance to Shadowbrook, a Jesuit Novitiate, formerly the summer home of Andrew Carnegie. Left on the dirt road at 3.2 m. is the public entrance to Lake Mahkeenac or Stockbridge Bowl (boating, fishing).
At 6.7 m. US 7 bears right and US 20 (see Tour 4) runs left.
At this junction is the Trinity Episcopal Church (L), an edifice of cut stone with a beautiful stained-glass circular window.
At 12.3 m. is (L) the Stockbridge School of Drama, a remodeled rambling red barn.
STOCKBRIDGE, 12.8 m. (town, alt. 839, pop. 1921, sett. 1734, incorp. 1739), was named for an English municipality, and occupies a grant made by the General Court in 1734 for the purpose of establishing an Indian mission, with land set apart for four white families. At the time Stockbridge was the home of the Mukhekanews ('People of Ever-Flowing Waters'), a branch of the Algonquins. So successful was the mission that a number of the Mukhekanews were listed among the first officials of the church and town. Friendly relations between the whites and Indians were disturbed in 1755, and in 1785 the Indians left for New York State.
In 1745 a gristmill was established; and during the period between 1750 and 1850 the townsfolk were extensively engaged in the manufacture of hats and wrought nails.
Stockbridge support of the embargo on tea during the Revolutionary days was graphically shown by an experience of the Rev. Mr. Kirkland. On the eve of his departure for missionary work among the Oneida Indians, he invited to his home a colleague, who was shocked to see on the table a steaming pot of tea. Circumstances, however, seemed to warrant a compromise with patriotism, and behind locked doors the two men sat down to tipple, a pleasure suddenly ended by a loud knock on the door. In his haste to conceal the boiling pot of tea, the Rev. Mr. Kirkland upset it in his lap.
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Grouped about the Common are the First Congregational Church, the old Town Hall, and the impressive Field Chime Tower, a memorial to the Rev. Dudley Field, father of three famous sons. First was Dudley Field, Jr., a noted lawyer permanently famous for his work to secure legal reforms; second was Stephen Field, United States Supreme Court Justice; third was Cyrus Field, promoter of the laying of the first transatlantic cable. A short distance west stands the Jonathan Edwards Monument, dedicated to the great preacher who taught the Indians for a time in the Mission House (see below).
At the junction with State 102 (L) is the Red Lion Inn, on the site of a tavern of that name established in 1774. The inn contains the Plumb Collection of Colonial china, pewter, and furniture.
East of the High School on State 102 is the entrance to the Berkshire Playhouse (open in summer), the principal Little Theater in the Berk- shires, a rectangular frame structure, painted white, with an open cupola and a captain's walk.
The Stockbridge Mission House (open summer 10-12.30; 2-6; Sun. 2-6; winter 2-4, and by appoint .; adm. 25g) is 0.3 m. west of the Center on State 102. This house was built in 1739 by the Rev. John Sergeant, first mis- sionary to the Stockbridge Indians. Jonathan Edwards (1703-54), the great Calvinist clergyman whose writings and sermons at Northampton helped to touch off the Great Awakening that swept America, came to this house as a missionary in 1751 after he had been forced out of North- ampton. In Stockbridge he wrote 'The Freedom of the Will.' With the adjacent buildings the Mission House constitutes a restoration of an early Colonial village. This beautiful memorial was conceived by Mabel Choate in honor of her parents. The magnificent landscaped gardens are the work of Fletcher Steele. The old house is a two-and-a-half-story un- painted clapboarded structure with two inner chimneys below the ridge- line on the rear slope of the roof, a very rare feature for a house of this period. The sole exterior embellishment. is the front door with its fine panel work. The frame of the Connecticut Valley door has fluted sides and an intricate carved decoration over the center. Natural pine wood- work adorns the walls of the rooms. Enthusiasts about American antiques will delight in the displayed crewelwork of bird and flower de- signs. A partial list of other items includes a dole or livery cupboard, an extremely early and rare piece whose open front has tulip-like Gothic slats allowing a circulation of air for the food which was kept in it; candle- stands whose height is adjustable by ratchet; an odd dresser with receding upper compartments; and an oak chest brought over from England by John Choate in 1643.
Left from Stockbridge to Ice Glen, 0.6 m., a wild and lovely gorge containing ice in its deeper crevices the year round. A trail to this point and to Laurel Hill, a knoll owned by the Laurel Hill Association, branches from the High School grounds.
South of Stockbridge US 7 climbs the slope of Monument Mountain (alt. 1640) and at 16.3 m. passes over Squaw Peak (overnight cabins available)
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From Pownal, Vermont, to North Canaan, Conn.
to the Monument Mountain Reservation. The road here is flanked by a steep ravine (R) and a dense forest of deciduous trees (L). As the high- way descends, an excellent view of the Berkshires unfolds. William Cullen Bryant's poem, 'Monument Mountain,' tells of an Indian girl who cast herself from the summit when forbidden to marry a member of a hostile tribe.
Right from this point, about 0.5 m., on a steep, dangerous trail running along the face of a sheer cliff to the summit, is the Devil's Pulpit, an unusual white marble formation. The view of the valley and distant mountains from this point is very fine.
At 17.3 m. the majestic dome of Mt. Everett (alt. 2624), which appears in the works of Hawthorne and Bryant, is seen (R).
At 19.3 m., Belcher Square, is the junction with State 17 (see Tour 4A).
Left from Belcher Square, on a trail is Belcher's Cave, a rift in the rocks, noted chiefly for a huge stone fragment that hangs like a spearhead in the entrance. Here a band minted false Colonial currency.
GREAT BARRINGTON, 20.4 m. (town, alt. 710, pop. 6369, sett. 1726, incorp. 1761). Both Dutch and English names are on the deeds here, given in 1724 by Chief Konkapot. The Great Road, running through the town, was the route of many expeditions during the French and Indian Wars.
The first telegraph line having a local station was run through the town in 1848 by Ezra Cornell, financier and founder of Cornell University. Anson Jones, last President of the Republic of Texas (1844-46), was born in Great Barrington in 1798. In recent years Great Barrington has become a winter and summer vacation center, and the summer home of many New York people.
On the grounds of the Searles High School, Bridge St., near the Housa- tonic River (L), is a stone monument marking the approximate site of an old Indian Ford. Here, in 1676, a band of fleeing Narragansetts was over- taken by Major Talcott, and a sanguinary encounter took place, the last Indian engagement in the area.
The William Cullen Bryant House (R), now a summer tearoom, is in the garden behind the Berkshire Inn. The house (1739) is a two-and-a-half- story dwelling with a two-leaf door of the early Connecticut Valley type and with two interior chimneys. The interior is handsomely paneled, particularly the 'marriage room.' Here Bryant was married at the time he was practicing law and serving as town clerk (1815-25) of Great Barrington.
At 21.2 m. are the Grounds of the Housatonic Agricultural Society (saddle horses; annual fair 4th Tues, in Sept .; grandstand, exhibition hall, race track).
US 7 passes over the Green River at 22.5 m., near its junction with the Housatonic River, which runs parallel with the highway for a long stretch. At 23.8 m. the Appalachian Trail (see Tour 9) crosses the road. At 25.6 m. is SHEFFIELD PLAIN (Town of Sheffield).
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I. Right from here on a dirt road is the Bear's Den, 0.8 m., with a wooded knoll rising 200 feet. According to Indian tradition, savage bears used to come down from the cave to eat naughty papooses.
2. Left from Sheffield Plain, 0.5 m., on a dirt road is an Old Covered Bridge over the Housatonic River; north of this bridge, 0.5 m., is another Old Covered Bridge. Both bridges are more than 100 years old and are still in use.
SHEFFIELD, 26.6 m. (town, alt. 697, pop. 1810, sett. 1726, incorp. 1733), at one time depended on lime and marble for revenue, but today it de- pends on agriculture and summer visitors. Its wide main thoroughfare lined with elms is one of the most beautiful in the Commonwealth.
At 27.7 m. is a junction with a dirt road.
Right on this road 1.7 m. is Bartholomew's Cobbles, an outcropping of queerly shaped boulders in a pine-clad vale (picnicking).
At 30.8 m. (R) is an old Red Mill (open 8-5), which has been in operation continuously for over 200 years.
At 31.4 m. the road crosses the Connecticut State Line, 2 m. north of Canaan, Conn.
TOUR 17 A : From PITTSFIELD to CONNECTICUT LINE (Salisbury), 31.7 m., State 41.
Via West Stockbridge, Great Barrington, Alford, Egremont, Mount Washing- ton, and Sheffield.
B. & A. and N.Y., N.H. & H. R.R.'s parallel the route at intervals.
Hard-surfaced road open all year except during severe snowstorms.
STATE 41 runs through hilly Richmond and the valley of the Williams and Housatonic Rivers. Passing infrequent tiny villages, lonely farms set in rugged country, and crisscrossed by innumerable streams, the route is paralleled throughout its length by an almost unbroken chain of forest-clad mountains.
South of its junction with US 20 (see Tour 4) 4.5 m. west of Pittsfield, State 41 runs through part of the Shaker Settlement (see Tour 4).
At 1 m. is Richmond Pond, with the summits of the Berkshire Hills rising behind it.
At 3 m. are the Richmond Boulder Trains, a geological curiosity. They are a band from two to three miles in width, extending southeast across Richmond. The rocks of a peculiar chlorite schist range from small pebbles to boulders of many tons, and were evidently transported across. the Taconic Range during the glacial period.
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From Pittsfield to Salisbury, Conn.
RICHMOND, 5 m. (town, alt. 1107, pop. 628, sett. 1760, incorp. 1765), originally called Yokumtown, was incorporated as Richmont, but in 1785 became Richmond in honor of Charles Lennox, Duke of Richmond, and defender of Colonial rights. From 1827 to 1923 Richmond was active in the production of iron ore; Richmond iron was used for the cannon of the 'Monitor.' Competition ruined the mines and smelters here; today the town depends chiefly on agriculture, though two stone quarries and a small ironworks are still in operation.
Left from Richmond on a gravel road, 0.7 m .; is a junction with a dirt road; right on this road to Steven's Glen, 1.7 m. (picnicking), a deep, cool ravine through which a brook winds its way.
RICHMOND FURNACE, 6.5 m. (alt. 1003), was named for the large iron smelters operating here until 1915. One of the old brick houses of this once thriving industrial center is adorned with floral paintings.
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