USA > Massachusetts > Massachusetts : a guide to its places and people > Part 52
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High Roads and Low Roads
State 78 here commences a descent into a deep gorge known as the Gulf, by a series of hairpin curves between high banks.
At 6.6 m. is the start of the Snowshoe Trail circling Mt. Grace, and also the Novice Ski Trail.
At 7.3 m. are State Picnic Grounds (nominal charge for use of table and fire- places), a cleared pine grove with a charming brook, spanned by rustic bridges, meandering through it. In the center is a marker with an inscrip- tion 'Zilphia Smith' and an old overgrown cellar hole. Here formerly lived Zilphia Smith, an aged recluse, seen only on her rare visits to the village store. She had retreated to this spot when jilted on the eve of her marriage.
At 7.4 m. is the Professional Ski Trail, one of the fastest and first of its kind in the State, dropping 1000 feet in one mile.
At 9.6 m. State 78 crosses the New Hampshire Line about 5 m. south of Winchester, N.H.
TOUR 3 : From BOSTON to NEW HAMPSHIRE (Concord), 36.1 m., US 3.
Via Boston, Cambridge, Arlington, Winchester, Woburn, Burlington, Billerica, Lowell, Tewksbury, Tyngsborough, and Dunstable.
B. & M. R. R. parallels this route; N.Y., N.H. & H. R.R. also services Lowell. Two-lane or three-lane macadam road, with many curves.
ONE of the main routes between Boston and central New Hampshire, US 3 traverses a rolling countryside of meadowland edged by patches of wood, and of small, well-tilled farms surrounded by grazing lands. The only large city is Lowell, a textile center. Between Lowell and the New Hampshire Line, US 3 parallels the Merrimack River.
West from the State House, Boston, on Beacon St. (see Tour 4) to Ken- more Square, 1.7 m .; right on Commonwealth Ave. to Cottage Farm Bridge and the junction with US 1 (see Tour 1), 2.5 m .; right over bridge and left along the Charles River on Memorial Drive (see Tour 2).
At 4.5 m. is Harvard Square, Cambridge (see CAMBRIDGE).
Between Cambridge and Arlington, US 3 (Massachusetts Ave.) passes through a densely populated area, and at 8.1 m. reaches the center of ARLINGTON (see ARLINGTON).
North of Arlington US 3 cuts through a prosperous residential section bordered on one side by the Mystic Lakes.
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From Boston to Concord, N.H.
At 9.3 m. on a triangular plot is a large tablet indicating the Reservation of the Squaw Sachem, a woman leader of the Nipmuck Indians. In 1639 she sold all the land of her people saving only this, 'the ground west of the two great ponds called the Mystic Ponds, for Indians to plant and hunt upon and the weare above for the Indians to fish at.' In exchange she received clothing and trinkets.
At 10.4 m. is the junction with Church St.
Right on Church St. is WINCHESTER, 0.9 m. (town, alt. 22, pop. 13,371, sett. 1640, incorp. 1850), called successively Woburn Gates, South Woburn, and Black Horse Village. Its present name came from Colonel Winchester, a Watertown business man who presented his municipal namesake with $3000. Edward Con- verse, called 'the Father of Winchester,' erected a gristmill utilizing the power of the Aberjona River.
On the site of this mill was built in 1839 a plant housing various enterprises, among them those of Joel Whitney and Amos Whittemore. Whitney built ma- chinery for making veneers; Whittemore introduced machinery for pegging shoes, an innovation that forced him to raise the wages of his women binders because of the hostility to machine production felt by his competitors, the old-fashioned shoe- makers. The plant was bought by the United Shoe Machinery Corporation in 1929.
By 1860 three tanneries were in operation, and by the end of the century the manufacture of leather had become important. The Mackey Metallic Fastener Corporation, established in 1893, absorbed in time by the United Shoe Machinery Corporation, attracted many workers, causing a building boom. Today the town is largely residential, and only a few long-established factories continue to operate, producing leather uppers, gelatine, watch hands, and felt products.
A prominent resident was Edwin Ginn, who founded the great schoolbook- publishing house and made a million-dollar gift with which was created the World Peace Foundation. Another resident was Samuel McCall, editor, author of biographies of Thaddeus Stevens and Thomas B. Reed, and Governor of Massa- chusetts (1916-19).
The Winchester Public Library, Washington St. and Mystic Valley Parkway, a structure of stone and half timber, built in 1930, houses a small museum.
North of the Center 1.4 m. on Washington St., at the corner of Forest St., a marker identifies the John Harvard Land (see CAMBRIDGE).
Between Winchester and Woburn, US 3 runs through a section where shrubs, vegetables, and flowers are grown for the market in colorful acres dotted with greenhouses.
At 11.4 m. is the junction with State 128.
Right on State 128 is WOBURN, 1.6 m. (see WOBURN).
North of Woburn, US 3 traverses gently sloping hills and broad fertile acres.
BURLINGTON, 15.2 m. (town, alt. 123, pop. 2146, sett. 1641, incorp. 1799), is an agricultural community. The Marion Tavern (open), on Center St., a low, rambling, white house with a large gray barn, was known in coaching days as the Half-Way House.
Left on Bedford St. a short distance are the Old Burying Ground, a peaceful spot where nodding goldenrod and lazy creeping vines mask the weather-beaten slabs in summer, and the Old Meeting House, built in 1732, now the Church of Christ. It has been remodeled, but the oaken
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High Roads and Low Roads
interior remains. A sign says: 'Its walls were shaken by the firing of artillery during the siege of Boston, the muskets clattered in the aisle when the men brought their arms and accotrments (sic) to meetings.'
At 18.1 m. is PINEHURST PARK, a summer recreation spot.
BILLERICA, 20.8 m. (town, alt. 126, pop. 6650, sett. 1637, incorp. 1655), is an agricultural village with some woolen industries and the Billerica Car Shops of the Boston and Maine Railroad, employing from 2000 to 3000 men. Apples, cherries, and strawberries are an important part of the agriculture, intensively developed by the Polish settlers.
Billerica, home of the Wamesit tribe, and one of the Praying Indian towns, was originally called Shawsheen, the Indian name. It was later named for Billericay, in Essex, England. Many settlers were massacred in the French and Indian Wars. There is a story that during one of the alarms, when neighboring women and children were left under the pro- tection of one man in the home of Warren Dutton, Mary Lane urged the man to shoot at what appeared to be a stump near the house. When he refused, she took the gun and shot. The stump fell over - a dead Indian. At 22 m. US 3 crosses the Concord River.
At 22.9 m. is the junction with Chelmsford Rd.
Left on this road at 0.4 m. stands the Manning Manse (open as tearoom). This long, rambling two-and-a-half-story house was built by Ensign Sam Manning in 1696 for a tavern. Here each year is held the reunion of the Manning Family Associates, a nation-wide organization.
At 23.4 m. US 3 crosses the Middlesex Canal, one of the country's oldest commercial canals, no longer used but for 40 years a busy waterway (see Tour 1C, WILMINGTON).
The Billerica Town Line is crossed at 24.1 m. An ancient State law com- pels the selectmen, once every five years, to walk the entire boundary line between Billerica and adjacent towns, an action called 'walking the line.' Between Billerica and Lowell, US 3 passes flourishing truck-gardens and attractive homesteads.
LOWELL, 27 m. (see LOWELL), is at the junction with State 110 (see Tour 7).
Right from Lowell on State 38 is TEWKSBURY, 4.9 m. (town, alt. 105, pop. 6563, sett. 1637, incorp. 1734), probably named for Tewksbury, England. The original proprietors devoted much attention to laying out bridle paths (then called bridal paths) in order to attend church; many of the present roads follow the crooked courses of these old lanes.
The Rev. Sampson Spaulding Homestead (1735) (private), East St., a good example of Colonial Georgian architecture, has two and a half stories and stands in at- tractive surroundings.
In the Old Center Burying Ground on East St., 0.2 m. east of the Center, is a stone to Lieutenant William Kitteredge, who died at the age of 92, which carries this inscription:
'He's gone at length, how many grieve Whom he did generously relieve. But O how shocking he expire Amidst the flames of raging fire! Yet all who sleep in Christ are blessed What ever way they are undress'd.'
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From Boston to Concord, N.H.
St. Joseph's Juniorate (private), 32.9 m., is the house of studies of the Marist Brothers. On the grounds is the Jonathan Tyng House, built in 1674, for a time the most northerly house in the Colony; it served as an outpost of a near-by garrison erected for protection from the Indians. Imported delft-blue tiles, hand-wrought stair rails, and paneling ornament the interior. In the attic are slave pens and a slave bell.
TYNGSBOROUGH, 34.3 m. (town, alt. 112, pop. 1331, sett. before 1661, incorp. 1809), is a residential and farming town on the banks of the Merrimack River, named for the Tyng family, whose coat of arms became its official seal.
South of the Center on US 3 is the Robert Brinley Mansion (private), built in 1803 for 'Sir' Robert and 'Lady ' Brinley, who succeeded the Tyngs as town leaders; the house was famous for its hospitality. Near-by is the Nathaniel Brinley Mansion (private), a stately three-story edifice built before 1779 on a high rise of land. It is surmounted by a tall cupola, and on both sides are spacious two-story verandas, added later.
I. Right from Tyngsborough on State 113 is Tyngsborough Bridge, 1.8 m., a modern structure spanning the Merrimack River. The western approach is 10 feet higher than the eastern.
At 2.2 m. on State 113 is the junction with two roads.
a. Right here on Island Rd. is Tyng's Island, 2.2 m., a 65-acre tract formerly owned by the Merrimack Indians; the flood of 1936 uncovered many Indian relics here.
b. Left from the junction on a side road that meets Sherbourne Ave., on which (R) is the Littlehale Homestead, 0.3 m., which is associated with a tragedy of a kind common in early Colonial days. Mrs. Littlehale, hunting her two little sons, who had failed to return when sent to find the cows, saw Indians and ran for help. When she returned the Indians were gone; she never saw her children again.
2. Left from Tyngsborough on State 113, along which are beautiful views of the sparkling Merrimack and Nashua Rivers.
The summit of Negro Hill, 2.2 m., covered with juniper, can be reached only by those willing to break their own trail. The hilltop is the supposed burial place of John Blood's Negro servant. During an illness Blood called an Indian medicine man to prescribe for him, but suspecting the remedy offered him, John tested it on the Negro - whose prompt demise confirmed his master's fears.
DUNSTABLE, 3.5 m. (town, alt. 190, pop. 419, sett. 1656, incorp. 1673), a farm- ing hamlet named for the English birthplace of Mary Tyng, mother of Jonathan Tyng. (Dunstable is derived from 'dun,' a hilly place, and 'staple,' a mart.)
The fur trade, timber, and the stretches of fertile soil in the Merrimack and Nashua River Valleys, early attracted settlers from around Boston. Dunstable's development was retarded by the Indian wars, which raged here for 50 years without cessation; and the families lived in garrisons.
A poem, 'The Ballad of Captain John Lovewell's Fight at Pequawket,' relates the chief incidents of two expeditions from the town.
At 35.4 m. is a junction with Farewell St.
Right on Farewell St. is the Nathaniel Lawrence House (private), 0.5 m. (R), a two-story frame Colonial building with two end chimneys. Built in 1775 for the Rev. Nathaniel Lawrence, one of the town's early pastors, it is a fine example of 18th century architecture. The Oliver Farewell Homestead (private), 0.8 m. (R), built in 1750, has an 'L' ground plan unusual for that time.
At 36.1 m., US 3 crosses the New Hampshire Line 5 m. south of Nashua, N.H.
TOUR 4 : From BOSTON to NEW YORK STATE LINE, 152.1 m., US 20.
Via (sec. a) Watertown, Newton, Waltham, Weston, Wayland, Sudbury, Marl- borough, Hudson, Northborough, Shrewsbury; (sec. b) Worcester, Charlton, Sturbridge, Southbridge, Brimfield, Wales, Palmer, Wilbraham, Ludlow, Springfield; (sec. c) West Springfield, Westfield, Russell, Huntington, Chester, Tyringham, Lee, Lenox; (sec. d) Pittsfield, Hancock.
The B. & A. R.R. and the N.Y., N.H. & H. R.R. parallel the road at intervals. The road is hard-surfaced throughout, but narrow and in poor condition in some of the rural sections; open at all seasons.
Sec. a. BOSTON to JUNCTION WITH STATE 9, 35.2 m.
BETWEEN Boston and Waltham, US 20 traverses a heavily congested area. In some places between Boston and Worcester the route follows the Upper Post Rd., an alternate to the first or Old Post Rd. between Boston and Hartford, Conn. Many historic taverns still offer hospitality to the traveler. The countryside, dotted with farms and orchards, is beautiful, especially in the spring and fall.
US 20 follows Beacon St. west from the State House in Boston to Ken- more Square, 1.7 m .; thence along Commonwealth Ave. to Brighton Ave., 3.2 m.
ALLSTON, 3.8 m. (City of Boston), is a residential and industrial suburb.
At 5.1 m. US 20 crosses the Charles River, and at 5.7 m. (R) passes the U.S. Arsenal (see WATERTOWN).
At 6.4 m. is WATERTOWN (see WATERTOWN).
Left from Watertown Square on Galen St. to NEWTON line, 0.7 m. (see NEW- TON).
US 20 passes through sparsely settled sections and reaches WALTHAM, 10.2 m. (see WALTHAM).
West of Waltham US 20 runs through a hilly, heavily wooded country- side with fine estates.
At 11.4 m. is the junction with Summer St.
Left on Summer St. is the Norumbega Tower, 1.3 m., a massive stone structure built by E. N. Horsford, a Harvard professor who made a fortune out of acid phosphate sold under a proprietary name. He spent considerable time and money in a vain attempt to establish his contention that Norumbega, the city mentioned in the 'Saga of Eric the Red,' was here; Eric's son, Leif Ericson, may have visited the shores of the present State of Massachusetts, though there is little proof of this. The panoramic view from the tower makes it well worth a visit.
At 12.2 m. on US 20 is the junction of Wellesley St. (L) and the Upper
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From Boston to New York State Line
Rd., known here as the Boston Post Rd. (R), which is an alternate at this point to US 20.
I. Left on Wellesley St. is the Oliver Robbins House (private), on the northwest corner of Chestnut and Wellesley Sts., 1.2 m. It was occupied by Thomas Allen in 1698, and later by Thomas Rand and his son, who fought at Lexington and Con- . cord. It is a fine example of an early Colonial dwelling, with a large red-brick chimney.
At 1.4 m. on Wellesley St. are the entrance gates of the Regis College for Women, a parochial college, administered by the Sisters of St. Joseph. The 170-acre campus is markedly beautiful.
2. Right on the Boston Post Rd. to WESTON, 0.3 m. (town, alt. 199, pop. 3848, sett. about 1642, incorp. 1712), in what was originally the 'more westerly' pre- cinct of Watertown. During the Revolution there was a beacon light on Sander- son's Hill. Weston became a thriving agricultural and industrial center owing to its situation on a main thoroughfare, but about 1840 its industries left for neighboring cities, and today it is chiefly a residential section.
The town counts among its noted sons the Rev. Edmund Hamilton Sears, who wrote 'It Came Upon the Midnight Clear'; Carlton Stevens Coon, author of 'The Flesh of the Wild Ox' and other books; and Arthur Train, lawyer and writer, who found much of the background for 'Puritan's Progress' in Weston. Gertrude Fiske, well- known portrait painter, makes her home here.
At the Free Outdoor Swimming Pool (15g fee for non-residents), corner of Old Boston Post Rd. and US 20, instruction in swimming and life-saving is available from July I through the summer.
The Weston Public Library (open Mon., Wed., Fri., and Sat. 2-9, Tues. and Thurs. 2-5.30), corner School St. and Boston Post Rd., an attractive brick building, houses a small collection of fine Japanese ivories.
The Artemas Ward House (private), corner of Concord Rd. and the Post Rd. (R), was built in 1785 by two brothers named Easton and sold about four years later to Artemas Ward, son of General Ward of Revolutionary fame. Set 100 feet from the road on a hill, with beautiful terraced lawns and gravel driveway, it is a broad gable house with white clapboards, fine dentil mouldings in the cornice, and a shingled roof. A gabled portico with dentil moulding sets it apart from its more modern neighbors.
The Elisha Jones Place, or Golden Ball Tavern (private), 662 Boston Post Rd., was built in 1751 by Colonel Jones, and was the headquarters of the Tories during the Revolutionary War. It is a two-and-one-half-story mansion with two wings. At this house, John How, a British spy sent out in 1775 by General Gage to report on rebel ammunition stored on the Worcester Road, was discovered. Though he es- caped and reached Worcester, the Weston patriots so aroused the countryside that How reported to Gage that any attempt at the movement of troops in that direc- tion would result in certain defeat - with the result that Lexington was chosen for the British line of march.
North from Weston 1.7 m. on Concord Rd. is Weston College (Jesuit), where men are prepared for active religious and intellectual apostolates. The college buildings are on an elevation, from which there is a good view of the surrounding hills and valleys. The campus includes a nine-hole golf course, three tennis courts, a good ball field, handball courts, and extensive landscaped grounds.
WAYLAND, 15.8 m. (town, alt. 140, pop. 3346, sett. 1638, incorp. 1835), was named for Francis Wayland, clergyman and president of Brown University (1827-55). He was instrumental in establishing here in 1848 a Free Library claimed by a boulder on the Green to be the first free li- brary in Massachusetts. Shoemaking and the harvesting of meadow grass
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High Roads and Low Roads
were once important in the town; today market-gardening is the chief occupation.
The Unitarian Church, completed in 1815, derives its design from the work of Sir Christopher Wren. It is well proportioned and has a charming tower belfry with a Paul Revere bell.
Right from Wayland on the Old Sudbury Rd. at 1.1 m. is the Home of Lydia Child (private), a charming house of clapboards painted black, with two brick inside chimneys. Dormer windows with small, square panes light the upper story. Lydia Child, author and abolitionist, gave up her work as editor of the Juvenile Miscellany, the first American periodical for children, to follow William Lloyd Garrison in his anti-slavery crusade.
At 18.6 m. is the junction with Concord Rd.
Right on Concord Rd. at 0.1 m. is the Goodnow Library, opened in 1863. It con- tains some old manuscripts, diaries, and papers.
At 0.4 m. on Concord Rd. is the Israel Brown House (private) built in 1725. Prior to the Civil War this house served as a station on the Underground Railroad for slaves escaping to Canada. Brown used a stake wagon with a false bottom to carry the refugees to the next station at Lancaster; though suspected and often stopped, he was never apprehended. The house is a three-story hip-roof building with white clapboards. The slaves were secreted in a portion of the cellar reached from a trap door near the fireplace.
At 0.5 m. is a junction with a short private road; right on this road is the Wads- worth Monument, a granite shaft erected in 1852. When Marlborough was fired by the Indians in March, 1676, Lieutenant Curtis of Sudbury led a party in a surprise night attack. The leader of the Indians, Metus, was killed. A month later Captain Wadsworth of Milton arrived to assist Marlborough and discovered that the In- dians had moved on to Sudbury. After augmenting his forces, Wadsworth marched to Sudbury and was ambushed near the base of Green Hill. After fighting his way to the top, he maintained a stout defense, but toward evening King Philip routed the Colonials by setting fire to the woods. In the ensuing battle only 14 Englishmen escaped. Captain Wadsworth and 28 of his men were killed, and they are buried beneath this monument.
The Goulding House (open) (R), 0.6 m. is a restored two-story center-chimney dwelling built about 1690. Set well back from the highway on a gentle grade, with an orchard forming a charming background, and a well sweep and bucket in front, this house forms a pleasing picture. Some of the rooms have walls covered with matched boarding. The massive beams are exposed, displaying the fine flooring above. Wrought-iron hardware and large brick fireplaces indicate the age of the house.
At 1.5 m. is SUDBURY (town, alt. 165, pop. 1638, sett. 1638, incorp. 1639). Land here was originally granted in 1637 on petition to the residents of Watertown, but most of the actual settlers came directly from England. Their names appear on the passenger list of the 'Confidence,' which sailed from Southampton April 24, 1638.
At the outbreak of the Revolution, Sudbury had a population of 2160 inhabitants, the highest in its history, about 500 of whom saw active service in the war. The list of officers from this town in the Continental Army includes a brigadier general, colonels, majors, adjutants, surgeons, 24 captains, and 29 lieutenants. In the 19th century, Sudbury lost much of its territory to new towns; its industries died and were not replaced. Today, its nurseries, carnation greenhouses, and vegetable farms furnish the chief occupations.
Northeast from Sudbury at 0.6 m. is Whitehall, the estate of Ralph Adams Cram, distinguished architect. On the grounds Mr. Cram built his St. Elizabeth's Chapel, a small stone structure in the French Provincial style, with antique reredos.
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From Boston to New York State Line
At 21 m. a tablet marks the Site of the Parmenter Garrison House, built before 1686. The carpenters building the Wayside Inn (see below) took refuge here during an Indian attack.
At 21.1 m. is a junction with the Old Boston Post Rd., again an alternate to US 20.
Right on this road 0.3 m. is the Wayside Inn (guide; adm. 25g), the core of which was built by Samuel Howe in 1686, and immortalized by Longfellow in 'Tales of a Wayside Inn' (1862). It is now owned by Henry Ford, who added a two-story wing on the north end and restored some of the original appearance of the ordinary by authentic furnishings. He also placed here a number of objects of historical significance.
When the Inn was first opened to the public, it was known as Howe Tavern, but after 1746, when Colonel Ezekiel Howe put up a new sign, it became known as the Red Horse Tavern. The original structure had four rooms on the ground floor in addition to a kitchen ell, four sleeping-chambers on the second floor, and an un- finished attic; it is now a three-story gambrel-roofed building with two brick inner chimneys. The west wing, including a dining-room on the ground floor and a ball- room above, was added in 1800. The grounds are entered through wrought-iron gates, and the old Red Horse sign, suspended on a bracket, bears the names of some of the former owners.
Lyman Howe, the last proprietor of the Howe line (d. 1861), is thus described by Longfellow:
'Grave in his aspect and attire; A man of ancient pedigree, A justice of the Peace was he, Known in all Sudbury as "The Squire."'
The Inn has entertained many distinguished guests, including Washington, Lafay- ette, General Knox, President Coolidge, Thomas Edison, and Harvey Firestone. Longfellow visited it but twice, and the friends he represents as exchanging tales before the old hearth were actually never simultaneously assembled here.
At 0.4 m. on the Post Rd. is the Redstone Schoolhouse, a small red frame building set in a grove of pines. A tablet on a huge boulder near it says that the old school- house is the one immortalized in 'Mary Had a Little Lamb' (see Tour 11, STER- LING). This claim, however, is disputed. At 0.5 m. on the Boston Post Rd. is a Gristmill (open; free), the property of Mr. Ford. It is a three-story structure built of native field-stone, with a gable roof. The field is dotted with old discarded millstones. The great water wheel turns daily to grind the corn and other grains sold chiefly to visitors.
Between Sudbury and Marlborough US 20 passes through a pleasant countryside, predominantly orchard land.
MARLBOROUGH, 25.9 m. (city, alt. 386, pop. 15,781, sett. 1657, incorp. town 1660, city 1890), was the site of an Indian plantation called Okam- makamefit. The English knew this area as Whipsufferage. Later it was part of Sudbury Town.
Although Marlborough was one of John Eliot's Praying Indian towns, where the Indians had been converted to Christianity, it was attacked during King Philip's War. The following account is given by a Mr. Packard: 'On the Sabbath, when Mr. Brimmead was in sermon, March 20, 1676, the worshipping assembly was suddenly dispersed by an outcry of Indians at the door. The confusion of the first moment was instantly increased by a fire from the enemy: but the God whom they worshipped shielded their lives and limbs, excepting the arm of one Moses Newton,
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