Massachusetts : a guide to its places and people, Part 49

Author:
Publication date: 1937
Publisher: Boston : Houghton Mifflin Company
Number of Pages: 802


USA > Massachusetts > Massachusetts : a guide to its places and people > Part 49


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


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At 2.7 m. is the junction with a macadam road.


Right on this road at 0.5 m. is the main entrance (L) to Ottershaw Farm (private), formerly Dunroving, the estate of General Clarence R. Edwards of the 26th (Yankee) Division.


The Town Pound, 3 m. (L), marks the location of the first grant of land in Westwood, made to the Rev. John Allen in 1639. The Pound was


440


High Roads and Low Roads


built in 1700 by Lieutenant Joseph Colburn. A low stone wall surrounds a gnarled oak, on the trunk of which is nailed the original sign, its wording almost obliterated. There is still a pound-keeper, elected yearly, but his duties are now those of a minister without portfolio.


At 3.7 m. is the junction with Dover Rd.


Right on Dover Rd. is the junction with Carby St. Right on Carby St. is the en- trance to Scoutland, Inc., 0.3 m., a 1300-acre reservation, which with about 41 cabins forms a 'city' for Scouts. To this non-sectarian camp journey Scouts from all over the world, with the climax of activities each autumn. Just inside the en- trance is the rangers' cabin (private); next is the superintendent's cabin. Both are of log construction, chinked with clay. A short distance in is the Trading Post, a two-story square tower of broad stone with a bell, resembling a California Mission. It is possible to drive through the reservation over a narrow rough road bordered by a second-growth forest; but the drive is for hardy souls only.


WESTWOOD, 4 m. (town, alt. 102, pop. 2537, sett. 1640, incorp. 1897), from its earliest settlement as the Clapboardtree Parish of Dedham has been occupied by those who loved the land. Today, however, agriculture is largely the hobby of retired business men.


At 4.7 m., on the Green at the junction with Pond St., crowning a low knoll and shaded by a stately elm, is the Clapboardtree Meeting House (173I), a two-and-a-half-story white clapboarded structure with dark green blinds. The clapboards graduate in breadth from about 112 inches at the base to the usual 472 inches at the roof. The squat steeple has a well-proportioned belfry.


At 4.8 m., opposite 948 High St., is the Baker Homestead (private), one. of three houses to receive the Better Homes of America award in 1928 for excellence in design, equipment, construction, and grounds. Here in 1798 at the age of 12, Betsey Metcalf Baker, so taken with a beautiful bonnet one of her girl friends had received from England that she was determined to have one for herself, devised a method of splitting and braiding straw. Soon she was making hats for her friends; but because she considered it irreligious to patent her process, she realized little money from her device, which soon caused the development of one of the leading industries in the East.


At 5 m. (R), plainly visible from the road, is Oven's Mouth, also known as Devil's Mouth. It is said to have been used by Indians as a baké oven and as an arsenal - presumably at different times.


At 7 m. is the junction with Walpole St.


Right on Walpole St. is DOVER, 3.2 m. (town, alt. 156, pop. 1305, sett. about 1635, incorp. 1784). In the Center is the Town House, of brick topped by a grace- ful spire. The Dover Church on Springdale Ave., built in 1839, contains a Paul Revere bell.


Southwest of the Center, Springfield Ave. passes over Trout Brook, which rises in Great Spring, the north source of the Neponset River. It is known to old-timers as Tubwreck Brook, from an episode jovially chronicled by a local historian: 'One spring when the brook was unusually swollen, Captain James Tisdale attempted to sail down the stream in a half hogshead to gather flood cranberries. The tub be- came unmanageable, and capsized. Captain Tisdale's friends made much of this event. A quantity of ship bread together with some other articles as might be


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From Boston to Milford


washed ashore from the wreck of a merchant ship were left at his door, and the neighbors gathered and celebrated his rescue from the wreck. An original poem telling this story was repeated for many years around Dover fireplaces.'


The Sawin Memorial Building (open) right from the Center on Dedham St., is the headquarters of the Dover Historical Society, a two-story red-brick structure erected in 1905. The Miller Caryl House (R) (1777) (open), also on Dedham St. near Park Ave., was once the parsonage of a beloved pastor of the parish.


Continuing S., State 109 passes through wooded countryside.


At 9.2 m. (R) is the Peak House (1680) (open). With an extraordinarily high-peaked roof that explains its name, small leaded casements with diamond-shaped panes, and one small door, it must have been the envy of humbler householders when Seth Clark, receiving indemnity from the Colonial government for the burning of his first home by King Philip's Indians in 1676, is said to have built this house on its site. An- other story says that this was Seth's original house, spared by the Indians in return for a keg of cider.


MEDFIELD, 9.7 m. (town, alt. 179, pop. 4162, sett. and incorp. 1651). During King Philip's War more than half the village was burned to the ground. It was soon rebuilt. When Norfolk County was formed in 1793, Medfield citizens successfully objected to their town's becoming the county seat, on the ground that visiting the courtroom would be detri- mental to the industrious habits of the townspeople. Most of the original farms have been transformed into residential estates. Opposite the Town Hall is the Public Library, in which are the headquarters of the Medfield Historical Society (open to the public).


The Unitarian Church, North St., is an excellent example of Georgian Colonial architecture with its square clock-tower, belfry, and tall slender spire.


I. Right from Medfield on State 27 (North St.), which becomes Harding St., is the junction with Hospital Rd. Left on Hospital Rd. at 1.5 m. is an old square boarded well with an oaken bucket hanging under its dilapidated red roof, one of the few still seen in Massachusetts.


2. Left from Medfield on State 27 at 0.8 m. is an Old Gristmill built about 1705. At 1.4 m. (L) is a large formal garden enclosed by stone posts and a clipped hedge. Spilling over into dooryard, farmyard, and onto the long low farmhouse itself is an amazing Collection of Bronze and Iron Eagles from all over the world.


At 11.8 m. is the junction with Dover Rd.


Right on Dover Rd. at 1 m. is the transmitting station of the Westinghouse Radio Station (open 9-10.30; adm. free). Opened in 1931, its control-room contains some of the finest equipment in the world.


Directly opposite is the Willis House. At the rear stand 15 of the original 50 King Philip's Trees, supposed to have witnessed the celebration of the Nipmuck Indians after the burning of Medfield in 1676.


At 12.7 m. is the junction with State 115.


Right on State 115 is MILLIS, 0.2 m. (town, alt. 167, pop. 2098, sett. 1657, in- corp. 1885), on the west bank of the winding Charles, named in honor of Lansing Millis.


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High Roads and Low Roads


On the Common (R) is the Church of Christ, Congregational, founded in 1714, a white clapboarded building with a large green central door and a squat tower sur- mounted by an unpainted shingled steeple with a clock.


The Dinglehole, northwest of the Center on Union St., is a pit formerly filled with water, where Puritans heard the ringing of the bell that summoned the witches to their evil rites and saw on moonlight nights a headless man keeping vigil.


Straight ahead from Millis on State 115 are Boggestowe Pond, 1.4 m., and the Site of the Old Gristmill. On the crest of a hill about 100 yards (R) from the road is an Old Windmill.


Southwest from Millis, State 109 skirts the Black Swamps (R and L). At 15.4 m. is the junction with Holliston St.


Left on Holliston St. is MEDWAY, 1 m. (town, alt. 184, pop. 3268, sett. 1657, in- corp. 1713), a quiet manufacturing center on the north bank of the Charles, sur- rounded by meadowlands and wooded hills. The town lands were set off in 1713, but their seclusion from the rest of the Commonwealth is revealed by Medway's reluctance to send representatives to the General Court for 13 years. In 1763, how- ever, the first known census in Massachusetts was taken here, and during the Rev- olutionary War the town took an active part in boycotting British goods.


Shoe, needle, and textile factories remain of a long list of plants formerly including straw bonnet-making, carpet-weaving, organ-building, and an important bell foundry, one of the oldest in the United States.


State 109 continues over Drybridge Hill, reputed to be the highest point of land between Boston and Worcester.


At 16.8 m. on the corner of Franklin St. (L) is the Old Parish House (1817-1913), now the home of the Medway Historical Society (open).


At 20.5 m. is the junction with State 126 (see Tour 1C) 1 m. east of Milford.


TOUR 2 : From BOSTON to NEW YORK LINE (Troy), 148 m., State 2 (The Mohawk Trail).


Via (sec. a) Cambridge, Arlington, Belmont, Lexington, Lincoln, Concord, Maynard, Acton, Littleton, Ayer, Shirley, Lunenburg, and Fitchburg; (sec. b) Westminster, Gardner, Hubbardston, Templeton, Phillipston, Athol, Royal- ston, Orange, Wendell, Erving, Montague, Gill, and Greenfield; (sec. c) Shel- burne, Colrain, Buckland, Charlemont, Heath, Rowe, Monroe, Florida, North Adams, and Williamstown.


B. & M. R.R. parallels route throughout.


Hard-surfaced road three lanes wide near Boston. Western end very hilly, and dangerous in winter season. Passable except during heavy snowstorms.


Sec. a. BOSTON to FITCHBURG, 48.2 m.


BETWEEN Boston and Fitchburg State 2 runs through country closely connected with Colonial and Revolutionary history.


-


F


To Lawrence


To Newburyport


.MIDDLESEX


FELL


MELROSE


Newburyport


Turnpike


TOURS CROSSING


St


Salem


BOSTON


MEDFORD


1


St


Ave


To Lowell


Mystic


Mystick


Revere


Beach


Parkway


N


3


SOMERVILLE


Ave


CHELSEA


St


Ave Y


Cambridge


St


OSTON


WINTHROP


--


To Worcester


CAMBRIDGE


Dr


Charles Beacon


BOSTON


St


GOVERNORS ID


ID


BROOKLINE


Huntington .Ave


HARBOR


St


SOUTH BOSTON


SPECTACLE ID


Ave® Rc


OLD HARBOR


B


LONG ID


THOMPSON ID


FRANKLIN PARK


BAY


-


MOON ID


Morton


Ave


Dorchester


QUINCY


BAY


St


NEPONSET


WEST ROXBURY


Hyde


ROCK


MILTON


ISLAND


Rd


HYDE PARK


Neponset


25


19


Center


Ave


QUINCY


27A


READVILLE


BLUE HILLS


RESERVATION


To Taunton & Fall River


To Brockton


To Plymouth


BOSTON


To Worcester


JAMAICA PLAIN


ROXBURY


Columbia


DORCHESTER


BAY


Washington


Ave


Park


Southern


Hill


27


River


Brook


Blue -


St


Artery


To Plymouth


RESERVATION


Main


5


Highland


Winthrop


MALDEN


EVERETT


REVERE


St


Broadway


Broadway


/A


Mass


Broadway


Benmington


Saratoga


2


Medford Northern


Meridian


Chelsea


,EAST


BOSTON


Common 4


Memorial


wealth


DEER


Boylston


DORCHESTER


SQUANTUM


Randolph


Fellsway


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High Roads and Low Roads


In Boston State 2 follows Beacon St. west of the State House and crosses Harvard Bridge (Massachusetts Ave.), with buildings of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology on the right. At 2 m. it turns left and follows Memorial Drive along the north bank of the Charles River, running through CAMBRIDGE (see CAMBRIDGE).


At 4.4 m. is the old Weld Boat House, closely connected with the history of crew-racing at Harvard. Across the river are the buildings of the Harvard Business School (see CAMBRIDGE).


At 4.7 m. State 2 turns left on Mount Auburn St.


At 5.3 m. on the corner of Elmwood Ave. is Elmwood (private), once the home of James Russell Lowell (see CAMBRIDGE). At 5.3 m. State 2 turns right into Fresh Pond Parkway, which crosses Lowell Park, and at 6.5 m. turns right on Alewife Brook Boulevard Extension; then left at 7.2 m. into the Concord Turnpike.


At 8.3 m. is the junction with Pleasant St.


I. Right on Pleasant St. to ARLINGTON, 1 m. (see ARLINGTON).


2. Left on Pleasant St. on which No. 338 is the Abraham Hill House (private), built 1693, a plain buff clapboarded dwelling that was reputedly the birthplace of Zachariah Hill's five Minutemen sons and was a haven for patriots on that April day when the countryside rallied to Concord's aid. In it are two cannonballs fired at the Battle of Lexington.


BELMONT, 1 m. (town, alt. 39, pop. 24,831, sett. 1636, incorp. 1859), derives its name from the estate of John P. Cushing, the heaviest taxpayer at the time the town was incorporated.


On Pleasant St. near the Public Library is the Site of Roger Wellington's House (1636). Shaking the dust of Sir Richard Saltonstall's Watertown Plantation from his feet, Wellington broke ground in the Pequossette Plantation. He was soon joined by others, for the fertile soil lent itself readily to agriculture and dairying. The year 1859 was noted for the first Strawberry Festival - destined to become an annual event of such popularity that in 1863 about 2000 people gathered under the spreading elms on Pleasant St. to feast on the luscious berries.


Improved transportation facilities brought a change in the town's interests. No longer do its greenhouses and truck-gardens send produce to the Boston market, nor do pure-bred Holsteins pasture on open fields. Today the fields are occupied by homes whose owners work either in Boston or in the factories of Watertown and Waltham. Because of the increased population the town meeting form of govern- ment was modified in 1926, Belmont being divided into seven precincts, each precinct electing its representatives to the town meeting.


Anne Whitney, sculptor of the statue of Leif Ericson in Boston, was a resident of Belmont.


On the lawn of the Town Hall is a Cannon, removed from the U.S. Frigate 'Con- stitution' in 1931. Opposite the Town Hall on Concord Ave. is a brick building in the Colonial style housing the publicly owned Belmont Municipal Light Com- pany, which purchases power from Cambridge and distributes it at one of the lowest rates in the State.


Pleasant St. continues to a junction with Trapelo Rd., 1.9 m .; right on this road 2.2 m. is the legendary scene of beaver-trapping expeditions by the Norsemen. This region was a favorite haunt of James Russell Lowell, and his poem, 'Beaver Brook' was dedicated to it; another poem, 'The Oak,' is said to refer to the Waverley Oaks growing in the reservation. The poet called the Waverley Oaks section 'one of the loveliest spots in the world.' Mill St. leads right 0.3 m. from the Reservation


.


445


From Boston to Troy, N.Y.


to Wellington Hill, where in 1824 Lafayette stopped to drink cider with Jeduthan Wellington, who had fought under him at Dorchester Heights.


State 2 continues on the Concord Highway over a long hill covered by a new realty development and small farms.


At 12 m. is the junction with Waltham St.


Right on Waltham St. to LEXINGTON, 1.2 m. (see LEXINGTON).


State 2 now crosses Hobbs Pond, part of the Cambridge water system. At 14.5 m. is the junction with Lexington Rd.


Left on Lexington Rd. is the Flint House (private) 1.1 m. (R), built before 1653 by Thomas Flint, one of the first settlers to come here from Concord. The house retains its original front, but two additions have been made to the rear. It is a two-and-a-half-story frame structure with two inside chimneys.


LINCOLN, 1.6 m. (town, alt. 208, pop. 1573, sett. about 1650, incorp. 1754), is a beautiful residential and farming town, named for Lincoln, England. West from Lincoln 0.5 m. on Sandy Pond Rd. is the House of Julian de Cordova (open Sat. 2-4; adm. free), a copy of a Spanish castle. Construction was started in 1882 and completed in 1900. The house contains over 500 pictures, a few by old Spanish masters; many tapestries, chiefly Chinese; and a large collection of Chinese and Japanese objects. The estate covers 25 acres including part of a lake, a tower with a superb view, and a children's park. The museum is endowed and will pass to the town at Mr. De Cordova's death.


At 15.7 m. is the junction with Bedford Rd.


Right on Bedford Rd. at 0.9 m. is the junction with North Great Rd. (State 2A), which follows the line of march taken by the British on their way to Concord in April, 1775. Josiah Nelson, a Lincoln Minuteman, lived near this road. Hearing the approach of the troops, he rushed out to battle single-handed and was slashed on the head by the sword of a British soldier. Pausing only to staunch the wound, he hastened to Bedford to give the alarm. Lincoln believes that this was the first blood spilled in the War for Independence.


Right on North Great Rd. 1.4 m. is the spot where Paul Revere was captured in 1775. At this point on the then Old Concord Rd., the 'midnight ride' ended when Revere and his companions, William Dawes of Boston and Dr. Samuel Prescott of Concord, were halted by a British patrol. Dawes turned back and made his escape. Prescott jumped a stone wall, and following a path known to him, re- gained the highway at a point further down the road and gave the alarm at Con- cord. Revere was caught by the patrol and carried back to Lexington. There he was released and at once joined Hancock and Adams.


State 2 at 17 m. makes a wide circle (L), by-passing Concord Center.


Right (straight ahead) on Cambridge turnpike is CONCORD, 1.5 m. (see CON- CORD).


At 20.2 m. is the junction with State 62.


Left on State 62 is MAYNARD, 4.3 m. (town, alt. 176, pop. 7107, sett. 1638, incorp. 1871), a hill town of unusual beauty. Maynard was early concerned with manufacturing, particularly with woolen products, highly profitable from the beginning. Amory Maynard, from whom the town took its name, founded the original textile mill, out of which has grown the present immense American Woolen Company.


A legend from the days when the settlement was known as Assabet Peninsula, asserts that a tinker, who frequently plied his trade in the homes of the settlers, suddenly disappeared without leaving a trace. Shortly thereafter persons passing the river meadows swore they heard him at work and that the sounds followed them for some distance. At last an old lady, a resident of that district, died. Just why


-


446


High Roads and Low Roads


this should have been a matter of import to the vanished tinker, the legend does not explain; but all the oldest inhabitants know that the phantom sound accom- panied the old lady's body to the grave and was heard no more.


At 60 Main St. is the plant of the United Co-operative Society. Started in 1907 by mill workers of the lowest economic strata, this society is one of the most successful consumer enterprises in the United States, handling almost half a million dollars' worth of business in 1935. Of especial interest are the sanitary, attractive, and efficiently managed stores of the society.


At the corner of Main and Walnut Sts. is the Site of the First Mill of the American Woolen Company, built in 1846. The buildings of this huge mill border Main and Walnut Sts. for several blocks.


South from Maynard 0.9 m. on Parker St. is the junction, Four Corners; right here on Great Rd. 0.2 m. to No. 178, the Thompson or Eveleth House (private), formerly a tavern known as the American House. It is a well-preserved, two-and- a-half-story, white frame structure with a large central chimney.


At Gulf Meadow in the rear of the house at 36 Great Rd., 1.2 m., have been found a number of Indian hatchets and 'banner stones.'


Parker St. continues south to a junction with Marlboro Rd., 1.6 m .; right on Marlboro Rd. 0.3 m. is Puffer Rd., on which at 0.6 m. is (R) the Puffer Place or Pratt House (private), a modest structure with central chimney. Here lived the Rev. Reuben 'Pigeon' Puffer, Harvard 1778, whose hobby was the netting of pigeons on his grounds, whence he got his name. Later Ephraim Pratt, who attained the age (or so he claimed) of 116, lived here. When 94 years old he dick- ered with a farmer to board him for the rest of his life for $120. The farmer pro- bably thought he was driving a shrewd bargain, but he had not counted on Eph- raim's tenacity. In the end the centenarian had paid about $5 a year.


The Concord Reformatory (visited by permission), at 21.2 m., has a group of brick granite-trimmed buildings, surrounded by a high brick wall. The attractive lawn and flower beds near the road contrast sharply with the drab, iron-shuttered windows of the inner buildings. Blacksmithing, plumbing, printing, carpentry, and other trades are taught to the inmates, the products being sold to other institutions. Outside the walls is a 190- acre farm tilled by the more trusted inmates.


State 2 continues its winding way through a pleasant countryside with rambling farmhouses and short stretches of dense woodland.


At 23.5 m. is the junction with Brook St.


Left on Brook St. 0.2 m. (R) is the Estate of Dr. W. J. Middleton (open), a private bird sanctuary, through which courses a brook stocked with trout.


At 0.4 m. is the junction of Brook and Main Sts .; left on Main St. at 1 m. is ACTON (town, alt. 150, pop. 2635, sett. about 1680, incorp. 1735), originally a settlement of Praying Indians. The town was granted in 1643 to a Mr. Wheeler and called Concord Village. The Fitchburg Railroad, built through the town in 1844, started a period of industrial development that was arrested in 1862 when a fire destroyed the Center. Today there are three small factories manufacturing woolen goods, radio cabinets, and metal products.


The Acton Memorial Library on Main St. is a brick building with brownstone trimmings. The solid freestone arched entrance is enriched with mouldings and carved spandrels. Above the brick fireplace of the reading room is the inscription: 'This building a gift to his native town by William Allen White.'


Continuing south, Main St. becomes High St. At 2.5 m. (L) is the Faulkner Homestead (private), atop a small hill. This two-and-a-half-story white frame house with central chimney, on the site of the early Garrison House, was the house


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From Boston to Troy, N.Y.


of Colonel Winthrop Faulkner of Revolutionary War fame. The exact date of its construction is not known.


State 2 follows the shore (L) of Lake Magog (Ind. 'Many Waters') 25.6 m. (fishing; picnicking). The lake provides part of Concord's water supply.


A square granite slab at 26.8 m. (L) marks the Site of the Mary Shepard House, built in 1676. At 15 years of age, Mary, while doing lookout duty on Quagana Hill, was captured by the Indians; her brothers, Abraham and Isaac, were killed. Mary was taken to Lancaster, where in the dead of night she removed a saddle from under the head of a sleeping Indian, mounted a horse, and escaped.


At 26.9 m., corner of Great Rd. and Shaker Lane, is a Stone Post marking the northeast corner of Nashoba, the original site of Littleton. Nashoba ('Hill that Shakes') was the sixth Indian Praying Town in the State. The Indians believed that on a certain occasion they had seen the hill vibrate and heard it rumble.


LITTLETON COMMON, 28.5 m., is at the junction with State 110 (see Tour 7) and State 119 (see Tour 2A).


LITTLETON CENTER, 29.2 m. (town, alt. 230, pop. 1530, sett. about 1686, incorp. 1715), is in one of the 14 towns of the Nashoba Health Dis- trict, which aims by inter-town co-operation to protect against disease and to provide more complete public health facilities. This district specializes in poultry and dairy products and has some of the finest apple orchards in the State.


The Reuben Hoar Library (open evenings), a small yellow-brick structure, contains Colonial relics - spinning wheels, dishes, silverware.


The Old Tory House (open), on State 2, is a two-and-a-half-story white frame house with small-paned windows and several additions in the rear. Just prior to the Revolution, when patriotic sentiment was running high, it was the home of the Rev. Daniel Rogers, who was visited by a squad of soldiers determined to make him declare himself. When their knocking was not answered, they shot through the closed door, the bullets lodging in the staircase. The bullet-riddled door is preserved in the historical collection in the Houghton Memorial Building.


State 2, now a narrow road, winds through a rolling countryside of small farms and large tracts of uncultivated land.


At 33.5 m. is the junction with a country road.


Right on this road to Snake Hill, 1.5 m., where years ago lived Prudence Shedd, a lady who achieved considerable fame as a rattlesnake-hunter.


At 34.2 m. State 110 (see Tour 7) branches left.


AYER, 35.2 m. (town, alt. 232, pop. 3861, sett. about 1668, incorp. 1871), was named in honor of James C. Ayer, a patent-medicine manufacturer of Lowell who extended financial aid to the town.


The Public Library, on State 2, houses a small collection of shards of


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High Roads and Low Roads


Nashoba Indian pottery, old paper currency, a service flag, and Fort Stevens's first papers.


I. Right from Ayer on Washington St. 0.8 m. is Nonaconcus Park, which offers a magnificent panoramic view.


2. Left (straight ahead) from Ayer on West Main St. 1.2 m. is Fort Devens, established in 1917 as a training-camp.


At 35.9 m. is the junction with State 111 (Groton Rd.).


Right on State 111 at 0.5 m. is a dirt road (L) leading to the Ayer State Game Farm (open), 1.8 m., where Chinese pheasants are raised for release in suitable covers. Five hundred eggs were brought from China in 1933. The breeding has been dif- ficult but successful.




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