History of the counties of McKean, Elk, Cameron and Potter, Pennsylvania, with biographical selections; including their early settlement and development; a description of the historic and interesting localities; sketches of their cities, towns and villages biographies of representative citizens; outline history of Pennsylvania; statistics, Part 124

Author: Leeson, M. A. (Michael A.) comp. cn; J.H. Beers & Co., pub
Publication date: 1890
Publisher: Chicago, J. H. Beers & Co.
Number of Pages: 1320

USA > Pennsylvania > McKean County > History of the counties of McKean, Elk, Cameron and Potter, Pennsylvania, with biographical selections; including their early settlement and development; a description of the historic and interesting localities; sketches of their cities, towns and villages biographies of representative citizens; outline history of Pennsylvania; statistics > Part 124
USA > Pennsylvania > Potter County > History of the counties of McKean, Elk, Cameron and Potter, Pennsylvania, with biographical selections; including their early settlement and development; a description of the historic and interesting localities; sketches of their cities, towns and villages biographies of representative citizens; outline history of Pennsylvania; statistics > Part 124
USA > Pennsylvania > Elk County > History of the counties of McKean, Elk, Cameron and Potter, Pennsylvania, with biographical selections; including their early settlement and development; a description of the historic and interesting localities; sketches of their cities, towns and villages biographies of representative citizens; outline history of Pennsylvania; statistics > Part 124
USA > Pennsylvania > Cameron County > History of the counties of McKean, Elk, Cameron and Potter, Pennsylvania, with biographical selections; including their early settlement and development; a description of the historic and interesting localities; sketches of their cities, towns and villages biographies of representative citizens; outline history of Pennsylvania; statistics > Part 124

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M. P. JONES, merchant, Shippen, is a native of what is now Shippen, Cameron Co., Penn .. born January 1, 1852, a son of L. B. and E. E. Jones, natives of Vermont. He was reared and educated in his native township, remaining with his father until sixteen years old, when he began working in the lumber woods. He subsequently began working as hostler and taking charge of engines for the Western New York & Pennsylvania Railroad Com- pany. In August. 1885, he opened a general store in Shippen. which his wife has charge of, he continuing in the employ of the railroad company. Mr. Jones was married December 25, 1880, to Miss Elna Kaufman, a native of Copenhagen, Denmark. and they have three children: Elsie May, Eva E. and Stanley H. Mrs. Jones is a member of the Lutheran Church. In politics Mr. Jones is a Democrat.

LEMUEL LUCORE, JR .. farmer, P. O. Sizerville, was born at Em- porium, Penn .. May 1, 1828, a son of Lemuel and Rebecca Lucore. He worked on the farm with his father until 1855, and then began working in the lumber districts of Cameron county. August 1, 1861, he enlisted in the service of the United States, in the First Pennsylvania Reserve Cavalry. He was captured and confined in Libby Prison four months. August 12, 1864, he was dis- charged and returned home. Mr. Lucore was a delegate to the first county convention in Cameron county. He has held the office of justice of the peace since 1870, and in 1887 was elected a member of the board of county commis- sioners. December 10, 1865, he married Miss Nancy Ensign. daughter of William and Mary Ensign, of Shippen township. They have three children: Mary R., born July 7, 1868, is the wife of William J. Frazer, of Sizerville, Penn .; Marcus F., born March 7, 1870, and Arthur M., born May 16, 1872. Mr. Encore's father came to Cameron county in 1819, and settled on the pres- ent site of Emporium. He had a family of ten children: Sabra, born April 22, 1823; Wealthy A., July 4, 1824; Clara C., March 31, 1826; Lemnel, May 1, 1828; Allen, August 22, 1830; Melissa, December 5, 1832; Alva M., March 3, 1835; James B., August 23, 1837; Mary R., August 27, 1842; Ella R., May 5, 1846.

P. H. SHUMWAY, proprietor of the Sizerville Bottling Works, was born at Wellsboro, Tioga Co., Penn., December 6, 1854, a son of Joseph and Margaret Shumway, natives of Pennsylvania. He attended school until seventeen years of age, and then traveled extensively through the Western States, remaining until 1877, when he returned home and went to the Bradford oil fields, and was there employed until 1880, when he went to Olean, N. Y., and for sev- eral years engaged in bottling mineral water for the market. In 1887 he came to Cameron county, Penn., and leased the Sizerville Mineral Spring and opened his bottling works. Mr. Shumway was married November 8, 1881, to Miss Etta Bullemer, daughter of George and Mary Bullemer, of Buffalo, N. Y. They have two children: Florence M. and Earl P. Mr. Shumway is

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a member of Olean Lodge, No. 252, F. & A. M., and also of Olean Chapter. R. A. M., No. 150.

W. R. SIZER, merchant, Sizerville, is a native of what is now Cameron county, Penn., born in Sizerville January 26, 1855, a son of E. D. and Louisa Sizer. His paternal and maternal grandparents were natives of Massachu- setts, and settled in Portage township. Cameron Co., Penn., in 1819. He was given good educational advantages, attending Alfred University, in Alle- gany county, N. Y., and graduating from Westbrook College, at Olean, N. Y. He was employed in his father's store until 1883, and was then given a partnership, which was continued until the spring of 1888, when his father retired from business, and W. R. has since conducted it alone. He built his present commodious store building in the spring of 18SS, and now has one of the finest and best conducted mercantile establishments in the county. Mr. Sizer was married February 22, 1853, to Miss Bertha Earl, who was born at Emporium, August 14, 1863, a daughter of John and Annie Earl, her grand- father being the first white settler on the present site of Emporium. Novem- ber 16, 1889. to Mr. and Mrs. W. R. Sizer was born their first child, Edward Day. Mr. Sizer is a member of Emporium Lodge, No. 382, F. & A. M., of Chapter, No. 227, R. A. M., and of Olean Commandery, St. John's, K. T., No. 24.

HISTORY OF POTTER COUNTY.

POTTER COUNTY.

CHAPTER I.

TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.

ORIGIN OF NAME OF COUNTY-AREA AND ELEVATIONS-TOPOGRAPHICAL CON FORMATION-FOSSILS AND STRATA, ETC. - LUMBERING-GIANT SAW-MILLS- LUMBER CAMPS-EXPERIENCES OF THE WOODSMAN-TECHNICALITIES OF TIIE TRADE-RAFTING AND "DRIVING "-CYCLONES AND NATURAL PHENOMENA.

J AMES POTTER, after whom the county is named, came into the Susque- hanna country soon after the treaty of 1768. He served under Washing- ton or Lafayette during the Revolution, and, when the new purchase was made, he was the agent and surveyor of the land company on the Sinnema- honing.

This county, extending south from latitude 42' thirty-six miles, borders the line of New York State for thirty one miles, and embraces 1,071 square miles, prairie measure. It is bounded on the west by Mckean county; south- west by Cameron county; south by Clinton county, and east by Tioga county. The acreage, prairie measure, would be about 685,440, but owing to the great number of high, cone-like hills, the figure given is far below the area which a true measurement would credit. The population is estimated at about 24,000. *

The altitudes, based on reports made to the geological bureau, are given in the introductions to the township historical sketches, but for the purposes of this chapter, the altitudes of the following-named places are given: Coudersport depot, 1,661 feet above ocean level; Roulette, 1,537; southeast corner of Pike township, east of Galeton, 1,300; near Port Allegany, 1,508 feet; Port Alle- gany, 1,481; Keating Summit, 1,881: Cobb Hill, near Raymond, is said to be 2,500 feet; Summit, southeast of river and opposite quarry at Coudersport. 2,302; hill, northeast of river, one-half mile from town, 2,250; Lamont Sum- mit, 2,297; Newton and Bigby's dam, on Oswayo Creek, 1,525; Hebron Hill, 2,387; near Sharon Centre, 2,320. But the general elevation may be placed at 2,500 feet, from which heights the waters of the great rivers of northern Penn- sylvania pour out. The synclinals or troughs occasioned by the dip or incline of their rocks to the center, number seven, named in the order of districts to which they belong, thus: Blossburg basin, in the southeast; Kettle Creek basin next; Mill Creek; Pine Creek basin; Cowanesque basin; Coudersport basin, Oswayo basin and a fraction of the Ceres basin, in the extreme northwest. The synclinals traverse the county from southwest to northeast, and are separated by the anticlinals or valleys, the rocks of which dip outward toward the base of the synclinal walls. There are six of such valleys in the county: the Stew- ardson, two miles wide, between the Blossburg and Kettle Creek; next the

*C. Lyman, the census assistant marshal of Potter county in 1840, reported a population of 3,400, in- eluding six children of one mother born within five years, where ten years before there were only 1,265 in- habitants.

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HISTORY OF POTTER COUNTY.

New Bergen, three or four miles wide; then the C-F, irregular in width, except at county line; next the central, from the corner of Cameron, MeKean and Potter counties to north fork in Harrison township-called the Ulysses- Homer, anticlinal, two miles wide on the west and six on the northeast; and in the northwest the Roulette Hebron Bingham, from two to three miles wide, and the broad Sharon, from five to six miles wide. The geological structure of the clinals, in each section of the county is shown in the pages devoted to township history, where also the attempts to develop gas, oil, coal. lime, building sand and glass sand are noted.

Among the shells discovered in Potter county are orthoceras, cypricardia and rhynchonella in Fishing creek near Stearns; spirifer at Sharon Centre saw mill, and spirifer and sanguinolites in Fishing creek. In the Catskill red beds of West branch peculiar lithological specimens were found; one and three-fourths miles from Coudersport, on the Homer road, were found stig- maria with long, narrow stems, and one stem eighteen inches long by two and one- half wide. Plant stems of other species were also found here. In 1876 the little archieopteris was found in Roulette in railroad cut; a mile below the village of Harrison Valley, on Holcomb's farm, a grindstone grist was found, in 1876, in the upper Chemung strata, and in a similar strata in Sharon, conglom- erate pebbles and small rocks were discovered, and again in the railroad cut near Roulette, plant stems, fish scales, pieces of plants and obscure lamelli- branchita were exhumed.

The mountain sides and valleys of Potter county were formerly covered with a luxuriant growth of timber, pine and hemlock* greatly predominating. This timber, were it upon the stumps to-day, would yield a wonderful capital; but at this date (1887) the last straggling pines are being gathered. This year will probably finish up the pine lumbering of our section, and the hemlock is beginning to fall rapidly beneath the woodman's ax, more for its bark than for its lumber. It would naturally be supposed by those who know nothing of the history of the county that the marketing of this great mass of timber would have made at least a few of our citizens very wealthy, and have greatly im- proved the financial standing of many more, but this is not the case. We know of no Potter citizen who has been made wealthy by the pine of Potter, and very few who have been benefited even to a moderate degree therefrom. On solution of this problem we will advance the first and most important reasons, and this is that the bulk of the land in the county has been and still is owned by capitalists living without the county-in Philadelphia, New York, Williams- port and elsewhere. In an early day, when a piece of land was sold to an actual settler, there was little chance of marketing, and the forest was chopped down and the logs burned in the log heaps of the fallows, many of the fine pines being cut into rails. Later, as the pine became more valuable, when a piece of land was sold the pine was reserved, as is still done, giving the settler so much for preparing it for market, or the land was held until the pine was taken off of it. There were no large mills in the county to manufacture the lumber, and thus bring money into the community. The logs were peeled by gangs of men, and rafted or driven along the streams into the great booms be- yond the borders of the county. Many logs went to Pittsburgh, down the Alle- gheny, in an early day, but of late years the pine has found its way to the boom at Williamsport, to be manufactured in the giant saw-mill at that city, either by way of Pine creek or the Sinnemahoning and Susquehanna. A great majority of the men working in the lumber camps of the county came from

* In 1888 Potter county yielded 150,000 cords of bark, and Mr Kean 225,000 cords, with millions of feet of inmber. One hemlock on Pine creek yielded thirty rings of bark, showing the tree to be peeled for 150 fret.

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HISTORY OF POTTER COUNTY.

beyond the limits of the county. Some camps were made up entirely with loggers from Maine, and even from Canada and other remote points. It was necessary to the prosperity of the owners and jobbers that this should be so, for Potter could not supply the men to do the work. There has ever been sufficient work in the woods for all of the citizens of Potter. But aside from the wages of the rough men, there has been comparatively little of the great profits of the business which has remained in the county. An evil this system has brought is that farms were neglected, and that tracts of land have been left unimproved. One can realize this in an instant when entering a section where a little pine is left, and where lumbering has not yet ceased to tempt the settlers from their homes. A great part of the farms lay in old slashings, with the tree stems lying where they fell. The houses are very primitive, small and uncomfortable. The cattle have a lean, half-starved look. and the people you meet are more or less costumed in the bizarre fashion of the back- woods. Their language overflows with coarse slang, and with the men it is mingled with much profanity. The fences about the farms are tumble-down affairs constructed of mossy rails, logs or brush, slashed in windrows. A gen- eral air of dilapidation crowns the whole of the landscape. It is not until this section is entirely cleared of its lumber camps that we may begin to expect improvements upon the farms, whilst a more civilized manner of dressing, and a more Christian-like use of language would be desirable. This same lumber- ing business which invaded Potter at an early day, and has bound it in slavery down to the present time, is to blame for the uncultivated condition of the greater portion of our county to-day. It has kept us fifty years in the rear of sections unhampered thereby. Many have been ruined by attempting to work as contractors in a business they did not thoroughly understand. Others have lost their years' work by working for unscrupulous contractors or those who were unlucky and insolvent also. Men have been made rich by dealing in the pine of Potter county, but they were foreigners, and they took their money with them to spend elsewhere. Whatever others may have done, our county has been made poorer in every way by the pine forests which at one time beau- tified its mountain slopes. Could the pine have belonged to our citizens, it would not have been so bad, and even this, we doubt not, would not have made the difference which some believe. As soon as there was a way to market. the pine would have been cut and sold, with more or less of the demoralizing in- fluences at work, the effects of which we now deplore. Potter has been dis- poiled of her pine, while where it stood are vast barrens to remind us of what once was our pride.

Of the hemlock, much land has been cut over for the bark for tanning pur- poses, and this has been nearly as demoralizing to the denizens of the hem- lock districts as the cutting of the pine. Thousands of acres have been slashed for this purpose, and the timber left to rot and the ground to grow up to fire cherries and briars. At present the prospect is more cheering, as mills are rapidly being built to manufacture the hemlock lumber, with now and then a giant in its way like the great saw-mill at Austin, capable of manufacturing 100,000 feet per day, or 1,000,000 feet every ten days; the colossal mill at Galeton, and the large mill to be built at Nelson by the Lackawanna Lumber Company. Millions of feet of hemlock logs are now being cut every year, and the advantage to us is that we shall reap some benefit from the industry of home manufacture. Beyond the immediate earnings from the lumber busi- ness we shall probably have more railway facilities, and be brought nearer en rapport with the vast world of life, an action which lies beyond our borders.

It will now be in place to give some description of how the work has been

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HISTORY OF POTTER COUNTY.

done of marketing our pine, the modus operandi and the manner of living of the men who take part in this perilous enterprise, for perilous it is. Many a finely organized man has suddenly been stretched in death in the lumber woods, or been drowned during the "drive," or from the timber raft. The camps usually are built in as nearly a central position to the tract to be chopped as possible. Still, as the pine recedes beneath the blows of the ax, the camp is left farther from the scene of labor, until the lumberman finally has to walk two and three miles to and from work. These camps are located near springs of water, and are built of logs chinked with mud and moss, and the roofs cov- ered with hand-made shingles. The interior is divided, usually, into two large rooms below, with pantry, store-room and two bed-rooms, one of the lat- ter for the jobber and his wife, if she accompanies him, the other for the female cook. Often a man is employed as cook. One of the large rooms is kitchen and dining room combined, the other is supplied with benches, and is dubbed the "bar-room," it being the lounging place for the men in the even- ing. The second story of the building embraces but one room, and as the building is but a story and a half affair it brings this room immediately under the roof. This is the sleeping apartment of the men. Here are rows of roughly made bunks, covered with heavy blankets and often hay or straw pillows. About this camp the trees are cut away to avoid the danger of hav- ing them blown upon the building by heavy winds. Flanking this cabin are the stables and the blacksmith shop. There is much business for the black- smith bere during the life of the job; horses and oxen must be shod, pevy or pike levers and cant hooks must be ironed, chains mended and spikes for the timber slides formed. This cluster of buildings constitutes the camp. The food is of the heartiest sort: pork, beef, potatoes, bread, butter, molasses, turnips, Indian bread, beans, cheese, pie and cake, and the invariable cup of coffee in the morning and at noon, and tea at supper. Some jobbers are noted for their stinginess with their larder, and they often run short of their crew of men in consequence of this reputation, for although the woodsman may wear coarse clothing he likes " good living," as he calls his food. Where the camp has a crew of Maine men the " bean hole" is ever to be found. It is a hole dug in the ground somewhat in the shape of an egg. When beans are to be cooked a fire is started in the " bean hole." and is kept going until a fine bed of coals is formed. Into this furnace is plunged the bean kettle, with the right amount of beans and pork in it, and covered with a strong iron cover. Upon this cover and about the kettle are piled coals until it is literally em- bodied in fire. Upon the top are thrown ashes, and upon this earth, which is firmly packed upon the "bean hole." The beans are usually put in the "hole " at night and allowed to remain there until next morning, when they are ready for the table, and it is said that they are delicious.

The clothing of the woodsmen varies in form, but all wear the long stock- ings drawn up to the knee over the trousers, where they are held in place either by a strap or a red cord with tassels. Heavy rubber shoes cover the feet. These shoes are usually one or two sizes too large, in order to admit of the person wearing two or more pairs of coarse woolen socks beneath the long red outside hose. In the spring during the " drive" boots are worn, with a strap bttekled around their tops to prevent the water finding too easy ingress. The soles and heels of these "driving" boots are filled with spikes from a half inch to an inch and a half in length, the longest spike being set in the heel. This is to prevent slipping upon the wet logs, which, as they have been (livested of their bark, are almost as smooth as glass. They wear heavy. coarse woolen shirts, slouch hats or knit caps with a tassel depending there- from. altogether presenting a somewhat picturesque appearance.

983

HISTORY OF POTTER COUNTY.

The woodsmen are rough and uncouth in their ways, but full of life and fun, and are hardy, and have proverbially splendid appetites. They are re- quired to be at their place at daylight, frequently even in summer. At night they usually go to bed as soon after supper as they can manage to smoke their pipes, supper usually taking place at dark. While smoking their pipes they lounge about the "bar-room " telling stories, joking each other and singing songs not calculated for the drawing-room.

The work in the woods consists of "falling" the trees, sawing them into logs of proper length, peeling and skidding. From the skids, upon which the logs are scaled, they are taken to the slides or trails, and along these to the place for " banking" on the stream, along which they are to be driven when the spring floods come. The trailing is done with teams where the ground is level. The trail is a shallow trough made usually of timbers pinned to the ground; or, at times, what is known as a "ground trail" is constructed by plowing two or three furrows in the earth, and afterward drawing a log back and forth through it until it is compacted into a smooth trough. When the -nows come, the trail becomes very slippery, and long trails of logs, from ten to twenty, can be pushed by a single team, the team being hitched to the rear log. When there is a deficiency of snow, with cold weather, the trails have to be " watered," that is, water is poured into them and allowed to freeze, and upon this ice the logs are slid. Where the trail has sufficient inclination for the logs to run by their own gravity, it is called a slide. In some places where the slides are very steep it is necessary to drive spikes into the timbers composing them to retard the running of the logs, for if they arrive at too great a velocity the logs are split and broken into fragments by striking among the logs already at the landing place at the foot of the slide. It is wonderful with what momentum the logs are forced at times. Any old woodsman will tell you wonderful tales thereabout. We have seen a tree two feet in diameter cut off by a log jumping from the track, thirty feet from the ground, and with such force that it took out a length of the tree trunk equal to the diameter of the flying log, whilst the top portion of the tree descended by the side of its stump, standing in its original perpendicular position. Logs have been known to jump from the track, being forced out by heavier logs striking them from the rear, and going up the steep mountain side for from fifteen to twenty rods; and they have been known to spring from the slide, whirl about a stand- ing tree and be flung back into the slide to continue their lightning course to- ward the valley. A number of years ago we were called to a lumber camp on the Pine creek to see a man who had been fatally injured by a log which en- circled a tree. He had been working upon the slide, and as he started down the mountain along the slide, he looked back and saw a large log coming with a weaving movement. His practiced eye told him that this was a dangerous customer, and he sprang behind a tree. The log swayed out far enough to catch this tree and was thrown entirely around it, crushing the woodsman against it. The man was dead before we reached the camp; his name was Frank Rhodes. Upon some mountain sides it is so steep that the tree, as soon as it falls beneath the ax, starts for the valley below with terrific velocity; stripping off all of its branches in the descent, and sometimes being shivered into splinters. Generally the slide or trail reaches the "banking " ground. By the term " banking" is meant where the logs are heaped upon the side of the stream until the flood comes. When the waters rise the logs are rolled from these huge heaps into the water. This is a time of great peril to the log driver. He may be working out logs from the bottom of the pile near the water, when the whole heap may give way and come thundering down upon '

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HISTORY OF POTTER COUNTY.

him, and he is caught in a "dead fall." The banking frequently extends to the bed of the stream so that the stream is filled bank high from bank to bank for a mile or more. On some of the smaller streams " splash dams" are con- structed. These are simply large and high dams constructed across the valley with two great gates where the stream passes through. These gates are closed when it is desired to fill the pond. Logs are rolled into the bed of the stream below the dam to be ready to be floated by the "splash." When the pond is full, the gates are opened and the flood pours forth which carries away the logs, in readiness for it, into the larger main stream beyond. The gates are so fastened that a blow upon a lever unfastens them, so that the person attending to this part of the work is in no danger.

The construction of rafts is now a thing of the past, so far as log-rafts are concerned. Occasionally lumber rafts are sent down the river, but in the old days of Inumbering in Potter county, the logs found their way to market in rafts, going to Pittsburgh, and even below, by the Allegheny, and as far as Chesa- peake Bay down the Pine creek and Sinnemahoning into the Susquehanna river. Many are the adventures told by the old rattsmen of their voyages; of their sharp work in the rapids of the Barbers of Pine creek; of the short turn to be made at Hanging Rock and Falling Spring; the running of the dams and chutes at Muncy and Shamokin, and the perilous ride through the break- ers of Kanawaga Falls, on to Columbia and Havre de Grace; then returning to their mountain homes on foot, walking often as far as fifty and sixty miles in a day. These raftsmen were a vigorous set of men, and a tough lot to encounter. Like life upon the canal, the raftsmen were expected to be ready to fight or drink at a moment's notice, and some of them, like Abram (or Brom) Rohrabacher, became noted the entire length of the route for their strength and skill. The men, or crew, of the raft slept and ate upon their low-running craft, having a shanty built upon the raft for a kitchen and dormitory; their fare continuing to be the same as that to which they were accustomed in the woods. Now, however, the logs are "driven" down the stream in a loose mass, carried along by the swift, swollen current, some of the drives upon Pine creek amounting to as high as 15,000,000 to 20,000,000 feet of logs at one time. A large crew of men accompany these "drives," wearing their spike- shod boots and carrying their cant hooks. No matter how cold the water is, and it may be filled with running ice in an early flood, they must plunge into it to loosen logs that have stranded upon bars, or caught upon rocks or points of land, the logs frequently floating, but would remain there until the water went down if they were not thrust out again into the current. This must be done by men often wading to their armpits in the water, so cold that their clothing freezes as soon as they step upon the land, and yet, with all of this immersion in icy waters, from morning until night, for days together, very few are made sick by it. In some instances rheumatism may follow or the legs may become sore, but that is usually the extent of the injury done by this severe exposure. An "ark," as it is called, a large flat-boat covered with a shanty, follows the "drive," as a hotel for the "crew." Here the meals are prepared, and here the men sleep at night, often in their wet clothing. It often happens that the flood goes down before the "drive" reaches its destination. In this case the work ceases and the "drive hangs up," which simply means that the logs will not float. If you inquire of a log-driver upon his return at such a time: " How far did you go?" he will reply, "We hung up," or "the drive hung up" at such a place. One of the greatest dangers to the log-driver, during the flood, is the log jam, or briefly, "the jam." A log catches upon a rock or bar in * such a manner as to obstruct the channel. other logs rapidly collecting about

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Author: Leeson, M. A. (Michael A.) comp. cn; J.H. Beers & Co., pub Publication date: 1890 Publisher: Chicago, J. H. Beers & Co. Number of Pages: 1320

Author: Leeson, M. A. (Michael A.) comp. cn; J.H. Beers & Co., pub
Publication date: 1890
Publisher: Chicago, J. H. Beers & Co.
Number of Pages: 1320