USA > Virginia > Historical collections of Virginia : containing a collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c. relating to its history and antiquities ; together with geographical and statistical descriptions ; to which is appended, an historical and descriptive sketch of the District of Columbia. > Part 23
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Now mount your nag and be off! As you descend the mountain-path faintly dis- cerned before you, and breathe the pure, fresh air of the hills, cast your eyes upon the most impressive of scenes. for Nature is there in all her glory. Far down in the valley. to the right, winds a lovely stream ; there hid by the foliage overarching its bright waters --- anon it appears in a clearing-again, concealed by a sweep of the mountain you are descending-still beyond, it seems diminished to a silvery thread. To the right and front is a huge mountain, in luxuriant verdure, at places curving far into the plain,-and at those points, and at the summits, bathed in a sca of golden light, -- at others. receding, thrown into dark, sombre, forbidding shades. Beyond are mountains piled on moun- tains, like an upto-sed sea of ridges, until they melt away in distance, and imagination fancies others still farther on. High in blue ether float yon clouds of snowy white, and far above them, in majestic flight, sails the bird of the mountain, with an air as wild, as free, as the spirit of liberty. How every thing is rejoicing all around ! Innumerable songsters are warbling sweetest music ; those wild flowers, with scarce the morning dew from off their lips, are opening their bright cheeks to the sun ; and even the tiny insects flitting through the air, join in the universal hallelujah ! Now fast losing the scene, you are entering the dark, solemn forest, densely matted above with vines, almost ex- cluding the light of day. You are soon at the base of the mountains, and from the copse before you out starts a deer ! the graceful animal pricks up its ears, distends its nostrils in fear, and, gathering its slender limbs ready for a spring, then bounds away, over hil- locks and through ravines, and is seen no more. The stream, broad and shallow, is wending its way across your road with gentle murmurings,-splash ! splash ! goes your horse's feet into the water ; forty times in ten miles does it cross your road, and in vari- ous places for many hundred yards your course is directly through it. There are no bridges upon it : there are comparatively few in Western Virginia.
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The above picture of a mountaineer, with a sketch of the wild and romantic scenery among which he lives, is a common, though not a universal one ; but between him and ic wealthy inhabitant of a large village, who lives in the enjoyment of every blessing. re all grades. Many cannot read or write, and many that can, know nothing of geo- raphy and other brancher The country is ten thinly settled to carry out a system of immon schools, although the state makes liberal appropriations for that purpose. 'I'l. 1 ountaincer who lives not within half a day's travel of a school-house, cannot afibril. l ce the wealthy lowland planter, to hire a private instructor, and pay him a heavy salary.
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Among these mountain fastnesses is much latent talent, which requires only an op- portunity for its development. Many of the people are of Scotch-Irish descent, and possess the bravery and other noble traits of their ancestry. Almost entirely isolated from the world, fashion, with her iron sway, has not stereotyped manners, modes of thought, and expression ; and, therefore, an amusing originality and ingenuity in meta- phor is frequently displayed. The educated of this mountain region are often men of high intelligence, fine address, and are possessed of all that which gives zest to social intercourse.
To further illustrate the subject we are upon, the manners and customs of the moun- taineers, we will introduce an article-already elsewhere published by us-giving our ad- ventures in one of the wildest counties in the state :
A Religious Encampment in a Forest.
Towards the close of an autumnal day, while travelling through this thinly-settled re- gion, I came up with a substantial looking farmer, leaning on a fence by the road-side. I accompanied him to his house to spend the night .. It stood in a field, a quarter of a mile from the road, and was one of the better sort of log-dwellings, inasmuch as it had two stories and two or three sinall windows. In its rear was a small log structure, about fifteen feet square, the weaving-shop of the family. 'On entering the house, I found a numerous family, all clothed in substantial garments of their own manufacture. The floor was unadorned by a carpet, and the room devoid of superfluous furniture ; yet all that necessity required to make them comfortable. One needs but little experience like this to discover how few are our real wants, how easily most luxuries of dress, equipage, and furniture can be dispensed with. After my arrival, two or three chickens were knocked down in the yard, and ere long supper was ready. It consisted of chickens, bacon, hoe-cake, and buckwheat cakes. Our beverage was milk, which is used at all meals in Virginia, and coffee thickened with cream and sweetened by maple sugar.
Soon as it grew dark, my hostess took down a small candle-mould for three candles, hanging from the wall on a frame-work just in front of the fire-place, in company with a rifle, long strings of dried pumpkins, and other articles of household property. With this, she " run " her lights for the evening. On retiring, I was conducted to the room overhead, to which I ascended by stairs out of doors. My bed-fellow was the county sheriff, a young man of about my age ; and as we May together, a une field was had in; astronomical observations through the chinks of the logs. On my intorming hun that this was one of the first log dwellings in which. I had ever speut a night, he regarded Die with astonishment, and proceeded to enlighten me upon hte in the back woods, giving
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me details I could scarcely credit, but which subsequent experience fully verified. The next morning, after rising, I was looking for the washing apparatus, when he tapped me on the shoulder as a signal to accompany him to a brook just back of the house, in whose pure, crystal waters we performed our morning ablutions, and wiped ourselves dry with a coarse towel.
After breakfast, through the persuasion of the sheriff, who appeared to have taken a sort of fancy to me. I agreed to go across the country by his house. He was on horse- back -- I on foot. For six miles, our route lay through a pathless forest, on leaving which we passed through " the Court-House," the only village in the county, composed of about a dozen houses, mostly log, and a brick court-house. A mile beyond, my com- panion pointed to a small log structure" as the place where he was initiated into the mys- teries of reading and writing. It was what is called, in Virginia, " an old field school- house," an expression, originating in the circumstance that these buildings, in the older portions of the state, are erected upon worn-out lands. Soon after, we came to a Meth- odist encampinent. The roads are here too rude to transport tents, hence the Methodists and Baptists, in this country, build log structures which stand from year to year, and afford much better shelter than tents. This encampment was formed of three continu- ous lines, each occupying a side of a square, and about one hundred and fifty feet in length. Each row was divided into six er eight cabins, with partitions between. The height of the rows on the inner side of the enclosed area, was about ten feet ; on the outer about six, to which the roof sloped shed-like. The door of each cabin opened on the inner side of the area, and at the back was a log chimney, which came up even with the roof. At the upper extremity of the endsur formed by these three lines of cabins, was a shed, say thirty by fifty feet, in which was a coarse pulpit and log seats ; a few tall trees were standing in the area, and many stumps scattered here and there. The whole establishment was in the depth of a forest, and wild and rude as can well be imagined. Religious pride would demand a more elegant temple ; but where could the humble more appropriately worship ? We read that
"The groves were God's first temples. Ere man learned To hew the shaft, aad lay the architrave. And spread the roof above them, -- ore he framed The lofty vault. to gather and roll back The sound of anthems; in the darkling wood, Amid the cool and silence, he knelt down And offered to the Mightiest solemn thanks And supplication."
In many of these sparsely-inhabited counties, there are no settled clergymen, and rare- ly do the people hear any other than the Methodist and Baptist preachers. Here is the itinerating system of Wesley exhibited in its full usefulness. The circuits usually are of three weeks duration, in which the clergymen preach about every day : so it rarely hap- pens, in some neighborhoods, when they have public worship, that it is on the Sabbath. Most of these preachers are men of indefatigable energy, and often endure great priva- tions.
After sketching the encampment, I came in a few minutes to the dwelling of the sheriff. Close by it, were about a dozen mountaineers, and several highland lassies, seated around a log corn-bin, twelve feet square; ten high. and open at the top, into which these neighbors of my companion were casting ears of corn, fast as they could husk them. Right merrily did they perform the task. The men were large and hardy. -- the damsels plump and rosy, dressed in good, warm, homespun garments, which, in- stead of being hooked and eyed, were buttoned up behind. The sheriff informed me that he owned about two thousand acres of land around his dwelling, and that its whole value was about one thousand dollars, or fifty cents per acre ! I entered his house, which was of logs, one story in height, about twenty feet square. and divided into two small rooms, without any windows or openings for them, and no place to let in light, except by a door in its front, and one in the rear. I soon partook of a meal. in which we had quite a variety of luxuries, among which was beur's meut. A blessing was asked at table by one of the neighbors. After supper, the bottle, as usual at com-huskings, was circulated. The sheriff learning I was a Washingtonian. with the politeness of one of bature's gentlemen, refrained from urging me to participate, The men drank very mod. erately. . Indeed, in my travels over nearly the whole of Virginia, I have seen far less intemperance than in my sindlar wanderings at the north. We all drew around the fire, the light of which was the only one we had. Hunting stories, and kindred topies, served to talk down the hours until bed-time. There were in the room two beds. One was occupied by a married couple the other by myself ; but there were no curtains be. tween.
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On awaking in the morning, I saw two ladies cooking breakfast in my bed-room, and three gentlemen seated over the fire, watching that interesting operation.
Having completed my toilet, my host, from a spring hard by, dipped a pitcher and poured the water into my hands, for me to wash myself. After breakfast, I bade the sheriff farewell, buckled on my knapsack, and left. He was a generous, warm-hearted man, and ou my offering a remuneration, he replied, " you are welcome ; call again when this way."
In the course of two hours, I came to a cabin by the way-side. There being no gate, I sprang over the fence, entered the open door, and was received with a hearty welcome. It was a humble dwelling, the abode of poverty. There was a neatness in the arrange- ment of the few articles of furniture extremely pleasing. In a corner stood two beds, one hung with curtains, and both spread with coverlets of snowy white, forming a con- trast to the dingy log walls, rude furniture, and rough boarded floor of this, the only room of the dwelling. Around a cheerful fire was seated an interesting family group. In one corner, on the hearth, sat the mother, who had given up her chair to me, sino- king a pipe. Next to her was a little girl, in a little chair, holding a little kitten. In the opposite corner sat the father, a venerable old man of Herculean stature, robed in a hunting-shirt, and with a countenance as majestic and impressive as a Roman senator. In the centre of the group was a young maiden, about eighteen, modest and retiring, not beautiful, except in that moral beauty virtue gives. She was reading to thom from a little book. She was the only one in the family who could read, and she could do so but imperfectly. In that book, which cost perhaps two shillings, was the whole secret of the neatness and happiness found in this lowly cot. That little book was the New Testament !
I conversed with the father. He was, he said, " a poor mountaineer, ignorant of the world." Hle was, it is true ; but he had the independence of a man-the humility of a Christian, As I left the cottage, the snow-flakes were slowly falling, and I pursued my lonely way through the forest, with buoyant feelings, reflecting upon this beautiful exhi- bition of the religion of the meek and lowly One. How exquisite are these lines, as ap- plied to a similar scene :
"Compared with this, how poor Religion's pride, In all the pomp of method and of art, When men display to congregations wide Devotion's every grace, except the heart. But happy we, in some cot far apart, May hear, well pleased, the language of the soul."
LIFE IN EASTERN VIRGINIA.
IN the foreground of the engraving illustrating the Home of the Planter, is a colored woman strutting across the yard with a tub of water on her head. Near her is a group of white and Mack miniature specimens of humanity, playing in great glee. In the middle ground is the mansion of the planter, pleasantly embowered in a grove of locusts. The mansion itself has the chimneys on the outside, a peculiar feature in the domestic architecture of the southern states. Under the shade of the porch sits the planter, with a pail of water by his side, from which, in warm weather, he is accustomed to take frequent draughts. At the door are a gentleman and lady, about making a social visit. On the right are the quarters of the blacks, where is seen the overseer, with some servants. In the distance is shown a river ; the finest plantations being generally on the fertile banks of some calm, flowing stream. This completes the picture, which we trust will prove a fannliar one to most of our readers.
It is, perhaps, unnecessary to describe in detail the life of a planter, as it is incident- ally illustrated in several places in this volume. The term planter, originally applied in this state to those who cultivated the tobacco-plout, is now an expression commonly used in reference to all agricalturists of the lowlands. This class forms the great bulk of the inhabitants, and from it have ansen most of the distinguished statesmen who have shed such lustre upon the name of Virginia. Settled, as this portion of the state was, by old English cavabers, their descendants have many of the same traits of char- acter. The introduction of slaves has given them the leisure to cultivate the elegancies of life, to mix much in social intercourse, and to become familiar with all current polit- ical topics. From this, too, has arisen much of the hospitality for which the planter is proverbial. Nowhere are the wishes and wants of the stranger guest more regarded; and nowhere is the character of a true gentleman held more sucred. The planter is also
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noted for his frankness and sincerity. And why should he not be ? He does not en- gage in the strife and turmoil of trade. He has no business secrets. His better nature has not been shocked, and his feelings blunted, by familiarity with the devices of the business world. Hence, his address is frank and free, and there is often a child-like simplicity and ingenuousness of manner that charms the stranger, and wins his strong- est affections. The current of the planter's life runs smooth ; and if possessed of a suf- ficiency, none can live more independently, more free from the distracting cares which often cut short the days of the man of business, and render his pilgrimage here one constant scene of struggle and perplexity.
We herewith present a description of the condition of the slaves. It is from the pen of a judge of one of the Virginia courts, and was published in a work a few years since. It is in the form of answers to certain queries made by the author of that work :
" I am not certain that I understand the scope of the first inquiry : ' The laws for the government of the master and the slave in Virginia.' Properly speaking, there are no laws affecting this relation. Both are under the protection of the law to a certain extent. The master would be punished for any mayhem or felony committed on the slave; but it has been decided that no prosecution will lie against him, even for excessive beating, not amounting to mayhem or felony. It has never been found necessary to enact laws for the government of the master in his treatment of the slave, for reasons that will appear hereafter.
" We have many laws respecting slaves, controlling them in certain particulars. Thus, they are not allowed to keep or carry military weapons -- nor to leave home with- out a willten permission- -- nor to assemble at any meeting-house or other place in the night, under pretence of religious worship -- nor at any school, for the purpose of being taught to read or write --- nor to trade and go at large as freemen -- nor to hire themselves out-nor to preach or exhort. Some of the penalties for a violation of these laws are imposed upon the master, for permitting his slave to do certain acts ; in other cases, the slave is liable to be taken before a justice of the peace, and punished by stripes, never exceeding thirty-nine.
" Slaves emancipated by their masters, are directed to leave the state within twelve months from the date of their emancipation.
" These laws, and every other having the appearance of rigor towards the slave, are nearly dead letters upon our statute book, unless during times of excitement, or since the efforts of the abolitionists have reanimated them. I have, until lately, scarcely known an instance in which they have been enforced.
" It is equally rare to witness the trial of a slave for any except very serious crimes. There are many offences committed by them, for which a freeman would be sent to the penitentiary, that are not noticed at all, or punished by a few stripes under the directions of the master.
" When tried for a crime, it is before a court of at least five magistrates, who must be unanimous to convict. They are not entitled to a trial by jury, but it is acknow. ledged on all hands that this is a benefit, and not a disadvantage. The magistrates are more respectable than common jurors ; and, being generally slave-holders themselves, they feel a certain sympathy with the prisoner, or, at all events, an absence of that pre- judice to which common jurors are very subject. .
" Slaves may be taught, and many of them are taught, in their owner's family. They are allowed to attend religious worship conducted by white ministers, and to receive from them religious instruction. In point of fact, they go where they please on Sun- days, and at all other times when they are not engaged in labor.
"2. ' The rights and duties of slaves,' as a distinct class, are not defined by law. They depend upon usage or custom, which controls the will of the master. 'Thus, the law does not recognise their right to hold property, but no instance is known of the master's interfering with their little acquisitions; and it often happens, that they are considerable enough to purchase themselves and family. In such cases I have never known the master to exact from the slave the full price that he might have obtained from others. In the same manner, the quantity and quality of food and clothing, the hours of labor and rest, the holidays. the privileges, &c., of the slave, are regulated by custom, to depart materially from which, would disgrace the master in public opinion.
"3. ' The domestic relations of the master and slave.' On this subject the grossest misrepresentations have been made. It seems to be imagined at the North that our society is divided horizontally. All above the line, tyrants-all below it, trembling. crouching slaves. Nothing can be more unlike the real picture. The intercourse be-
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tween the master and slave is kind, respectful, and approaching to intimacy. It must be recollected, that they have been brought up together, and often form attachments that are never broken. The servants about the house are treated rather as humble friends than otherwise. 'Those employed differently have less intercourse with the white family ; but, when they meet, there is a civil, and often cordial greeting on both sides. The slaves generally look upon their masters and mistresses as their protectors and friends, Born slaves, and familiarized with their condition, they have no wish to change it when left to themselves. When they compare it with that of the poor labor- ing whites in their own neighborhood. no envy is excited, but an opposite sentiment. "The slave of a gentleman, universally considers himself a superior being to ' poor white folks.' They take pride in their master's prosperity ; identify his jaterest with their own ; frequently assume his name, and even his title, and speak of his farm, his crops, and other possessions, as their own ; and well. indeed, may they employ this language, for they know that the greater part of the profits is liberally devoted to their use.
" In their nature the slaves are generally affectionate ; and particularly so to the children of the family, which lays the foundation of the attachments I have spoken of, continuing through lite. The children are always favorites, and the feeling is reciprocated. It is a great mistake to suppose that the children are permitted to tyrannize over the slaves, young or old ; and that they learn in this way dominecring habits. Some may, but more frequently there is rather too much familiarity between the white females and children of a family, and the slaves of the same description. The children play together on terms of great equality ; and if the white child gives a blow, he is apt to have it returned with interest. At many tables you will find the white children rising from them, with their little hands full of the best of every thing, to carry to their nurses or playmates ; and I have often known them to deny themselves for the sake of their favorites. These propensities are encouraged, and every thing like violence or tyranny strictly prohibited. The consequence is, that when the young master (or mistress) is installed into his full rights of property, he finds around him no alien hirelings, ready to quit his service upon the slightest provocation, but attached and faithful friends, known to him from his in- fancy, and willing to share his fortunes, wherever they may carry him. The connection is more that of the Scottish clansman, than of the English serf in times past ; and it influences all their future intercourse. The old gray-headed servants are address- ed by almost every member of the white family as uncles or aunts. The others are treated with at least as much respectful familiarity as if they were white laborers, and I should say with more. Fully aware of their standing and consequence, they never hesitate to apply to their masters and mistresses in every difficulty. If they have any want, they expect to be relieved -- if they are maltreated, they ask redress at their hands. Seldom or never are appeals of this kind made in vain. Injury to the slave from any quarter, is regarded as an injury to the master. On no subject is a Virginian more sensitive ; for he considers himself bound, by every moral obligation, to protect and defend his slave. If he is carried before a justice for any offence, the master ac- companies him ; if he is arraigned before the courts, the master employs counsel, and does every thing in his power to see that he has justice. In fact, the disposition is to screen the slave by every possible means, even when, his guilt is apparent, and I have known this carried to very unjustifiable lengths. In short, as far as my observation has extended, and I have been in free as well as slave states, I do not hesitate to athirmn, that the domestic relations of the master and slave are of a more familiar, confidential, and even respectful character, than those of the employer and hireling elsewhere.
" 4. ' The usual duration of the labor of the slave,' is from sunrise to sunset, with the exception of about one hour and a half allowed for breakfast, and from 12 to 2 o'clock for dinner. In harvest-time they get out somewhat carlier. But any extraordinary dili- gence during this period is more than made up by their being allowed, at its termination, a few days to labor for themselves, or for others who have not finished, and from whom they receive wages. The women in this part of the state do very little field-work. They are engaged in spinning, cooking for the out-han's, and taking care of the chil. dren. Few women are worth their victuals and clothes. Their labors are very light and profitless. A white Liboring woman will do double as much.
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