USA > Virginia > Historical collections of Virginia : containing a collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c. relating to its history and antiquities ; together with geographical and statistical descriptions ; to which is appended, an historical and descriptive sketch of the District of Columbia. > Part 27
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The laws of virginia prohibit religious as well as other assemblies of slaves, unless at least two white porsons are present. Such, however, was the universally acknow- ledged happy influence of Uncle Jack's meetings, that in his case it was not deemed necessary to enforce the law. On one occasion, some mischievous persons undertook to arrest and whip him and several of his hearers. After the arrest, one of the number thus accosted Uncle Jack: " Well, old fellow, you are the ringleader of all these meet- ings, and we have been anxious to catch you ; now, what have you got to say for your- self !" " Nothing at all, master," was the reply. "What! nothing to say against being whipped ! how is that ?" "I have been wondering for a long tune," said he, "how it was that so good a man as the Apostle Paul should have been whipped three times for preaching the gospel. while such an unworthy man as I am should have been permitted to preach for 20 years, without ever getting a lick." It is hardly necessary to add, that these young men immediately released him.
His influence over the members of his church was almost unbounded. As evidence of the fact, take the following :--
A gentleman who resided in the neighborhood, on walking out over his farm, detected one of his servants, who belonged to Uncle Jack's flock, in some very improper conduct. The only notice he took of it, was to threaten that he would inform that spiritual man. When he arose on the following morning and came to the door, he found this servant waiting and anxious to see him. "Why, Tom," said he, " what is the matter; why don't you go to your work ?" " Why, master," replied the servant, "if you would please whip me yourself, and don't tell Uncle Jack."
We would like to extend this notice, but want of space forbids. Uncle Jack died at the age of nearly 100 years. He was one of those characters, that, under propitious circumstances, might have left an undying nome. But in the limited sphere of his in- fluence, his humble and consistent life won for him the affections of the best people in the community
AMHERST.
AMURAST was formed in 1761, from Albemarle. It is about 29 miles long. and 19 wide. The James River forms its sw. and st. boundary, and the Blue Ridge its northwest. The James River Canal passes through the se. part of the county. The soil is naturally fertile, and of a dark, rich, red hue, and the scenery
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beautifully diversified. Pop. in 1830, 12,072; in 1840, whites 6,426, slaves 5,577, free colored 373; total, 12,576.
Amherst C. H., on the road from Lynchburg to Charlottesville. about 15 miles N. of the former, and New Glasgow, are small villages.
Pass of the James River through the Blue Ridge.
The pass of the James River through the Blue Ridge, is on the line of this and the county of Rockbridge. There & canal, seven miles in length, has been constructed around Balcony Falls, which will form the bed of the James River Canal, whenever that work is continued westward. The stage road from Lynchburg to the Natural Bridge winds along the side of the mountain, through wild and romantic scenery. which, to the lowlander accustomed only to the flatlands and pine-barrens of eastern Virginia, is striking. As he enters the gap from the east, the road gradvaly
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follows its tortuous course up the mountain's side, until it gains an elevation of hundreds of feet above the river, which it appears to nearly overhang. Gigantic mountains hem him in on every side ; while far, from the dark ravine below, comes up the roar of the rapids. A little mountain rivalet, from amid the primeval forest, dashes across his path, and, leaping from rock to rock, hur- ries on to swell the stream below. Emerging from the pass, a beautiful and fertile country opens before him, and still westward the blue outlines of distant mountains in Rockbridge meet his view.
AUGUSTA.
AUGUSTA was formed from Orange, in 1738. " Previously, all that part of Virginia lying west of the Blue Ridge was included in Orange ; but in the fall session of this year it was divided into the counties of Frederick and Augusta. Frederick county was bounded by the Potomac on the north, the Blue Ridge on the cast, and a line to be run from the head spring of Hedginan to head spring of the Potomac, on the south and west ; the remainder of Virginia, west of the Blue Ridge, to constitute Augusta. This immense ter- ritory, at the present time, comprises four entire states, and nearly 40 counties in western Virginia. As the population increased, the limits of Augusta were reduced until it reached its present boundaries in 1700." It is about 35 miles long, and 30 broad. The surface is generally uneven, and in the E. and w. mountainous. There are, however, some extensive bottoms of very fertile land. It is drained by tributaries of the James and Shenandoah rivers. Pop. 1830, 19,925 ; 1840. whites 15,072, slaves 4,145, free colored 421; total 19,628.
There are several fine villages in the county, besides the laige and flourishing town of Staunton. Greenville and Middle brook, the first 12 miles ssw. and the last 11 iniles sw. of Staunton, contain cach about sixty dwellings. Waynesboro', at the western base of the Blue Ridge, on the main stage road from Charlottes- ville to Staunton, 12 miles easterly from the latter, is a wealthy and flourishing village, containing about 100 dwellings. Mount Sydney. 10 miles NE. of Staunton, contains about 40 dwellings. Mount Solon, Spring Hill, Mount Meridian, and New Hope. are small places, at the first of which there is considerable maaufhe- turing carried on. There the Moss Creek Spring rises from a hili, and furnishes the power for a forge, a furnace, and 1 paper and I merchant mill.
The Augusta Springs are 12 miles ww. of Staunton. The water is strongly impregnated with sulphureired hydrogen. and is said to equal the celebrated springs of Harroweste, England. The improvements at this place are ample, and the situation extremely
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picturesque. About 12 miles sw. of Staunton. is one of those ebbing and flowing springs, so common in western Virginia.
Virginia Lunatic Asylum at Staunton.
Staunton, the county-seat, lies 116 ins. northwesterly from Rich- mond, 163 from Washington City, on one of the extreme head branches of the E. fork of Shenandoah River, in a fine valley be- tween the Blue Ridge and north mountain chains.
Institution for the Deaf and Dumb and the Blind, at Staunton, Va.
It contains 1 newspaper printing office, 2 female seminaries, 2 male academies, 1 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal, 1 Lutheran, and 1 Methodist church, and a population of abour 2,200. It has many mercantile and mechanical establishments, and dees large business with the surrounding country. An excellent mac-
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adamised road leads from here to Winchester. The Western Lu- natic Asylum is located at this place, and is a noble pile of brick buildings. By the U. S. census of 1810. the whole number of in- sane and idiotic persons in Virginia was 892, or 1 to every 866 per- sons. The Virginia Institution for the Dead and Drink and the Blind, has been established within a few years. A beautiful brick building is now erecting for it, near the town, on an elevated and picturesque site. By the U. S. census for 1840, the number of deaf and dumb in the state was 603, or I to every 2,056 of the population ; the number of blind 802, or one to every 1390 of the population.
" When Tarleton, in the war of the revolution, pursued the legis- ture to Charlottesville, to which place they had adjourned front Richmond, they again fled and met at Staunton, where they finish- ed their session. At some future day it will probably become the seat of government. It was af this place that two large conven- tions were held, to deliberate on forming the constitution of Vir- ginia. The last met in July, 1825, and made an appeal to the legislature, who thereupon submitted the question to the people, and it finally resulted in the adoption of' the new constitution."
This county has been the birth-place or the residence of several prominent characters. Among them may be mentioned the Hon. Daniel Sheffey ; Gen. Robert Porterfield, a gallant officer of the revolution ; and Judge Archibald Stuart, father of the Hon. Alex. II. H. Stuart.
DANIEL SHEFFEY was born at Frederick, Md., in 1770, and was bred a shoemaker, in his father's shop. His education was inconsiderable ; but possessing an ardent desire for knowledge, he passed his leisure in reading, and became particularly fond of astronom- ical and mathematical studies. Arrived at manhood, he travelled on foot, with his " kit" on his back, to Winchester. From thence he walked through the valley of Vir- ginia, stopping at various villages on his route, and earning sufficient money by his trade, to pay his expenses, until he at last arrived at Abbeville, Wythe county. He was a stranger, friendless and destitute. " Here he commenced his trade oave more. The novelty and originality of his character, and the flashes of genius which enlivened hvg conversation, often compelled his new-tried friends to look on the recentdie youth
with wonder." Becoming popular, he was received into the office of Alexander Sinyth, Esq .. and after being admitted to the bar of Wythe county, was employed in the most important suits. After some years he settled in Staunton, and obtained a lucrative practice. He often represented Augusta in the House of Delegates, and, in 1811, was
chosen as a member of Congress. " His speech. in favor of a renewal of the charte: of the first bank of the United States, was a masterly combination of sound judgment and conclusive facts: for three hours profound silence reigned ; and the most experienced statesmen were astonished at this exhibition of his talents." He was opposed to the declaration of war in 1812. On one occasion, he gave John Randolph, whose bitter sarcasm few could withstand, a most severe retort. In conunenting upon a speech of Mr. Sheffey's, he said that " the shoemaker ought not to go beyond his last." In an uvrant Sheffcy retorted, " if that gentleman had ever been on the beach, he never to mie have left it."
. Mr. Sheffey was a plain man ; his accent German, his pronunciation not agreeable : get the most refined audience always poid him profound attention. He seized upon the strong points of a case, and maintained them with unconquerable ceal. "Like Paines Henry, he was the artifices of his own fortune, and like him, in after-life, lamented that
* Kercheval's MSS. for a 2d edition of his History of the Valley.
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in his early days the lamp of life had shed but a feeble ray along the path which it was his destiny to travel."* He died in 1830.
Cyclopean Towers, Augusta Co.
The Cyclopean towers, which are near the Augusta Springs, are among the greatest curiosities of nature in the Union. Yet for many years they were known only in the vicinity, and bore the rude appellation of " the chimneys." They are about 60 of 70 feet in height. We annex the following from a published description by a gentleman who visited the towers in 1834, and gave them
Southern Literary Messenger.
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their present name. It commences with a description of the country as he approached towards them :
After passing over a hilly and picturesque country, the road opened upon a fertile valley, which though in places narrow, was of considerable length-and when seen from an elevated position, appeared like the bed of an ancient lake, or as it really is, the alluvial border of a flowing stream. The strata of limestone hills followed their usual order of parallel lines to the great mountains of our continent, as though a strong current had once swept through this magnificent valley, forming in its course islands and promontories, which are now discoverable in numerous short hills and rocky bluff's, that are either naked and barren, or covered with a growth of stately trees. It was at such a projection, that we first deserved the gray summits of what seemed a ruleous castle-resembling those which were raised in feudal times to guard the passes of the Rhine, or like such as are still seen in mouldering majesty on many an Alpine rock. These summits or towers, of which there were seven, lifted their heads above the lofty eims, like so many antique chimneys in the midst of a grove ; but, on approaching them nearer, our pleasure was greatly increased to find them risc almost perpendicularly from the bed of a stream, which, winding around their base, serves as a natural moat to a building not made with mortal hands.
These rocks in their formation resemble the palisades on the Hudson River -- but are more regular in their strata, which appears to have been arranged in huge masses of perfect workmanship, with projections like cornices of Gothic architecture, in a state of dilapidation. Those who are acquainted with the structure of the Cyclopean walls of the ancients. would be struck with the resemblance.
A narrative of the circumstances connected with the settlement of Augusta county, by the Lewis family, collected from authentic rec- ords, and traditions of the family, and communicated for this work by a gentleman of the county :
John Lewis was a native and citizen of Ireland, descended from a family of Hugue- nots, who took refuge in that kingdom from the persecutions that followed the assassina- tion of Henry IV .. of France. Ilis rank was that of an Esquire, and he inherited a handsome estate, which he increased by industry and frugality, until he became the lessee of a contiguous property, of considerable value. He married Margaret Lynn, daughter of the laird of Loch Lynn, who was a descendant of the chieftains of a once powerful elan in the Scottish Highlands. By this marriage he had four sons, three of them, Thomas, Andrew, and William, born in Ireland, and Charles, the child of his old age, born a few months after their settlement in their mountain home.
The emigration of John Lewis to Virginia, was the result of one of those blondy af- frays, which at that time so often occurred to disturb the repose, and destroy the hap- piness of Irish families. The owner of the fee out of which the leasehold of Lewis was carved, a nobleman of proffigate habits and ungovernable passions, seeing the prosperity of his lessee, and repeating the Largain he had concluded, uuder pretence of entering for an alleged breach of condition, attempted by the aid of a band of ruffians, hired for his purpose, to take forcible possession of the premises. For this end, he surrounded the house with his rutians, and called upon Lewis to evacuate the premises without de- lay, a demand which was instantly and indignantly retused by Lewis ; though sur. prised with a sick brother, his wife, and infant children in the house, and with no aid but such as could be afforded by a few faithful domestica. With this small force, scarce equal to one-fourth the number of his assailants, he resolved to maintain his legal rights at every hazard. The enraged nobleman commenced the atfray by discharging his fowling-piece into the house, by which the invalid brother of Lewis was killed, and Mar- garet herself severely wounded. Upon this, the enraged husband and brother, rushed from the house, attended by his devoted little band, and soon succeeded in dispersing the assailants, though not unun the Boole author of the mischief, as well as his steward. had perished by the hand of Lewis. . By this time the family were surrounded by their sym- pathizing friends and neighbors, whey after bestowing every ald in their power. advised Lewis to fly the country, a measure rendered necessary by the high standing of his late antagonist, the desperate character of his surviving wasallants, and the want of avi. dence by which he could have established the facts of the case. He therefore, after drawing up a detailed statement of the affair, which he directed to the proper authorities, embarked on board a vessel bound for America, attended by his family auc a band of
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about thirty of his faithful tenantry. In due time the cmigrants landed on the shores of Virginia, and fixed their residence amid the till then unbroken forests of west Augusta. John Lewis's settlement was a few miles below the site of the town of Staanton, on the banks of the stream which still bears his name. It may be proper to remark here, that when the circumstances of the atfray became known, after due investigation, a par- don was granted to John Lewis, and patents are still extant, by which his majesty granted to him a large portion of the fair domain of western Virginia.
For many years after the settlement at Fort Lewis, great amity and good will existel between the neighboring Indians and the white settlers, whose numbers increased apace, until they became quite a formidable colony. It was then that the jealousy of their red neighbors became aroused, and a war broke out, which, for cool though desperate cour- age and activity on the part of the whites, and ferocity, cunning, and barbarity on the part of the ludians, was never equalled in any age or country. John Lewis was, by this time, well stricken in years, but his four sons, who were now grown up, were well quali- fied to fill his place, and to act the part of leaders to the gallant little band, who so no- bly battled for the protection of their homes and families. It is not my propose to go into the details of a warfare, during which scarcely a settlement was exempt from monthly attacks of the savages, and during which Charles Lewis, the youngest son of John, is said never to have spent one month at a time out of active and arduous service. Charles was the hero of many a gallant exploit, which is still treasured in the memories of the descendants of the border riflemen, and there are few faibles among the Alegna- nies where the name and decds of Charles Lewis are not familiar as household words. On one occasion, Charles was captured by the Indians while on a hunting excursion, and after having travelled some two hundred miles, barefoot, his arms pinioned behind him, goaded on by the knives of his remorseless captors, be elected mis escane withe hands- ling along the bank of a precipice some twenty feet in height, bo suddenly, by a strong muscular exertion, burst the cords which bound him, and plunged down the steepinto the bed of a mountain torrent. His persecutors hesitated not to follow. In a race of several hundred yards, Lewis had gained some few yards upon his pursuers, when, upon leaping & prostrate tree which lay across his course, his strength suddenly failed, and he fell pros- trate among the weeds which had grown up in great luxuriance around the body of the tree. Three of the Indians sprang over the tree within a few feet of where their prey lay concealed ; but with a feeling of the most devout thankfulness to a kind and superin- tending Providence, he saw them one by one disappear in the dark recesses of the forest. He now bethought himself of rising from his uneasy bed, when lo ! a new enemy appear- ed, in the shape of an enormous rattlesnake, who had thrown himself into the deadly coil so near his face that his fangs were within a few inches of his nose ; and bis enor- mons rattle, as it waved to and fro, once rested upon his ear. A single contraction of the eyelid-a convulsive shudder-the relaxation of a single muscle, and the deadly beast would have sprung upon him. In this situation he lay for several minutes, when the reptile, probably supposing him to be dead, crawled over his body and moved slowly away. ·" I had eaten nothing," said Lewis to his companions, after his return, " for many days ; I had no fire-armis, and I ran the risk of dying with hunger, cre I could reach the settle - ment ; but rather would I have died, than made a meal of the generous beast." During 'this war, an attack was made upon the settlement of Fort Lewis, at a time when the whole force of the settlement was out on active duty. So great was the surprise, that many of the women and children were captured in sight of the fort, though far the great- er part escaped, and concealed themselves in their hiding places, in the woods. The fort was occupied by John Lewis, then very old and infirm, his wife, and two young wo- men, who were so much alarmed that they scarce moved from their seats upon the ground floor of the fort. John Lewis, however, opened a port-hole, where he stationed himself, firing at the savages, while Margaret reloaded the guns. In this manner he sustained a siege of six hours, during which he killed upwards of a score of savages, when he was relieved by the appearance of his party.
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Thomas Lewis, the eldest son of John Lewis and Margaret Lynn, lahored under a defect of vision, which disabled him as a mark man, and he was, therefore, less etlicient during the Indian wars than his brethren. He was, however, a man of learning and sound judgment, and ropresented the county of Augusta for many years in the House of Burgesses ; was a member of the convention which ratified the constitution of the Uni- ted States, and formed the constitution of Virginia, and afterwards sat for the county of Rockingham in the House of Delegates of Virginia. In 1765, he was in the House of Buryears, and voted for Patrick Henry's celebrated resolutions. Thomas Lewis had four sons actively participating in the war of the revolution; the youngest of whons, Thomas, who is now living, bore an ensign's commission when but fourteen years of age
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Andrew, the second son of John Lewis and Margaret Lynn, is the Gen. Lewis who commanded at the battle of Point Pleasant. (See his memoir in Bottetourt co.)
Charles Lewis, the youngest of the sons of John Lewis, fell at the head of his regi- ment, when leading on the attack at Point Pleasant. Charles was esteemed the most skilful of all the leaders of the border warfare, and was as much beloved for Li noble and amiable qualities as he was admired for his military talents.
View in Weyer's Cave.
William, the third son, was an active participator in the border wars, and was an off- cer of the revolutionary army, in which one of his sons was killed, and another maimed for life. When the British force under Tarleton drove the legislature from Charlottes- ville to Staunton, the stillness of the Sabbath eve was broken in the latter town by the beat of the drum, and volunteers were called for to prevent the passage of the British through the mountains at Rockfish Gap. The elder sons of Wm. Lewis, who then re- sided at the old fort, were absent with the northern army. Three sons, however, were at home, whose ages were 17, 15, and 13 years. Win. Lewis was confined to his room by sickness, but his wife, with the firmness of a Roman matron, called them to her, and .bade them fly to the defence of their native land. " Go my children," said she, " I spars not my youngest, my fair-haired boy, the comfort of my declining years. I devore you all to my country. Keep back the foot of the invader from the soil of Augusta, or s.6 my face no more." When this incident was related to Washington, shortly after its oc- currence, he enthusiastically exclaimed, " Leave me but a binner to plant upon the mountains of Augusta, and I will rally around me the men who will lift our bleeding country from the dust, and set her free."
I have frequently heard, when a boy, an anecdote related by an old settler, somewhat to this effect : The white, or wild clover, is of indigenous growth, and abounded on the banks of the rivers, &c. The red was introduced by John Lewis, and it was currently reported by their prophets, and believed by the Indians generally, that the blood of the red man slain by the Lewises and their followers, had died the trefoil to its sanguine hue. The Indians, however, always did the whites the justice to say, that the red man was the aggressor in their first quarrel, and that the white men of western Virginia had always evinced a disposition to treat their red brethren with moderation and justice.
Wever's Cave, is 17 miles N. of Staunton, in a bill a short dis- fance west of the Blue Ridge. It derives its name from Bernard Weyer, who discovered it in 1901, while hunting.
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Within a few hundred yards of it, is Madison's cave, described by Jefferson. This, however, has superior attractions. No language can convey an adequate idea of the vastness and sublinity of some, or the exquisite beauty and grandeur of other of its innu- merable apartments, with their snowy-white concretions of a thousand various forms, Many of these, with their striking and picturesque objects, have names exceedingly in- appropriate, which to mention would degrade any description, however well written, by the association of the beautiful and sublime, with the vulgar and hackneyed. Washing- ton Hall, the largest apartment, is 250 feet in length. A foreign traveller who visited the cave at an annual illumination, has, in a finely written description, the following no- tice of this ball :
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