USA > Virginia > Historical collections of Virginia : containing a collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c. relating to its history and antiquities ; together with geographical and statistical descriptions ; to which is appended, an historical and descriptive sketch of the District of Columbia. > Part 28
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" 'There is a fine sheet of rock-work running up the centre of this room. and giving it the aspect of two separate and noble galleries, till you look above, where you observe the partition rises only 20 feet towards the roof, and leaves the fine arch expanding over your head untouched. There is a beautiful concretion here, standing out in the room, which certainly has the forin and drapery of a gigantic statue ; it bears the name of the Na- tion's Hero, and the whole place is filled with those projections, appearances which ex- tite the imagination by suggesting resemblances. and leaving them unfinished. The Parral effect, too, was perhaps indescribable. The fine perspective of this room four times the length of of ordinary church ; the numerous tapers, when near you, so copa.B. Vered by deep shadows as to give ouly a dim religious light ; and when at a distance, appearing in their various attitudes like twinkling stars on a deep dark heaven ; the ania- ring vaulted roof spread over you, with its carved and knotted surface, to which the streaming lights below in vain endeavored to convey their radiance ; together with the impression that von had made so deep an entrance, and were so entirely ent off from the living world and ordinary things ; produces an effect which, perhaps, the mind can re- ceive bat once, and will retain forever."
" Weyer's Cave," says the writer above quoted, "is in my judgment one of the great natural wonders of this new world ; and for its eminence in its own class, deserves to be ranked with the Natural Bridge and Niagara, while it is far less known than either. Its dimensions, by the most direct course, are more than 1,600 feet ; and by the more winding paths, twice that length ; and its objects are remarkable for their variety, for- mation, and beauty. In both respects, it will, i think, compare, without injury to itself, with the celebrated Grotto of Antiparos. For myself, I acknowledge the spectacle to have been most interesting ; but, to be so, it must be illuminated, as on this occasion. I had thought that this circumstance might give to the whole a toyish effect ; but the influ- ence of 2,000 or 3,000 lights on these immense caverns is only such as to reveal the ob- jects, without disturbing the solemn and sublime obscurity which sleeps on every thing. Scarcely any scenes can awaken so many passions at once, and so deeply. Curiosity, apprehension, terror, surprise, admiration, and delight, by turns and together, arrest and possess you. I have had before, from other objects, one simple impression made with greater power ; but I never had so many impressions made, and with so much power. before. If the interesting and the awful are the elements of the sublime, here subliniity reigns, as in her own domain, in darkness, silence, and decps profound."
There died in this county, in February, 1844, a slave, named Gilbert, aged 112 years. He was a servant to Washington at the time of Braddock's defeat, and was afterwards present, in the same capacity, at the surrender of Cornwallis.
BATH.
Burn was formed in 1791, from Augusta, Bottetourt, and Green- briar. It is about 35 miles long and 25 broad. It is watered by the head-branches of the James, Cow Pasture and Jackson Nivers. Some of the valley lands are very fertile, but the greatest propor- tion of the exduty is uncultivated, and covered with mountains. Pop. 1830, 4,008 ; 1840, whites 3,170, slaves 317, free colored 83; total 4,300.
Wann Springs, the county-seat, is 161 miles W. of Richmond. and 40 miles N. E. of the White Sulphur Springs of Greenbriar.
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Besides the county buildings, and the elegant hotels for the accom- modation of visiters at the springs, there are but a few dwellings. The situation of the place is delightful, in a narrow and fertile valley, between two high mountains, and offers numerous attrac- tions to its many visiters.
The tradition respecting the discovery of the springs is. that a party of Indians hunt- ing, spent a night in the valley. One of their number discovering the spring, bathed in it, and being much fatigued, he was induced, by the delicious sensation and warmth imparted by it, to remain all night. The next morning he was enapied to scale the mountain before his companions. As the country became settled, the fame of the waters gradually extended : and at first, visitors from the low country dwelt here in tude buts. For a long time, both this and the Hot Spring were outy surrounded by brush, and open at top. The subjoined analysis of these waters was made by Prof. Rogers :
" The bath is an octagon, 38 feet in diameter, and 16 feet 9 inches inside-its area is 1163,77 feet. The ordinary depth of water being 5 feet, the cubic capacity is 5818.86 . feet, or 43533.32 gallons. Notwithstanding the leaks, this quantity of water will flow into the reservoir in one hour. The average temperature of the bath is 93 deg. Fahrenheit. 'The gas which rises in the bath consists of nitrogen, with minute quantities of sulphur- etted hydrogen and carbonic acid.
" Besides this gas, each gallon of water contains 4.5 cubic inches of gas, consisting of nitrogen, 3.25 cubic inches ; sulphuretted hydrogen, 0.25 do. ; carbonic acid, 1.00 do. "The saling contents of one million of the water are as follows . mariate of lime, 2 968. sulphate of magnesia, 9.984 ; carbonate of lime, 4,288 ; sulphate of lime, 5.466; a trace of soda, no doubt, in the state of muriate.
" While the Warm Springs afford the most luxurious bath in the world, they contain neutral salts and various gases, which act as a gentle aperient, diuretic and sudorific, and give tone and vigor to the human system. It is well ascertained in other countries, that waters of a high temperature tend more to strengthen the digestive organs than those of a low temperature ; but it is found, by actual experiment, that the water at the Warm Springs retains a considerable portion of its useful qualities when bottled in the spring, and then cooled by immersing the bottles in cold water, or even ice ; and this plan is adopted by many of those who have a repugnance to the use of warm water."
The approach to the Warm Springs from the east. is over the mountain of the same name. The road which leads across it is five miles, four-fifths of which is on the east side of the ridge, where to the traveller a succession of deep precipices and glens present themselves, environed with gloomy woods and obscure bottoms, From the summit of the mountain at the Warm Spring Rock, which is much visited, there is a sublime view of parallel ridges of mountains, extending for 40 or 50 miles, one behind the other, as far as the eye can reach, " like a dark blue sea of giant billows, instantly stricken solid by nature's magic wand." Some 70 years since, the principal route of emigration was across this mountain, at which time there was no wagon-road over it. The emigrants came in wagons to " the camping-ground," a level spot near what is now Brinckley's tavern. at the eastern base of the mountain. From thenee they transported their baggage to the west on pack-horses, while their wagons returned east loaded with venison, hams, &c.
One mile west of the little village of Milboro' Spring, and 12 miles east of the Warm Springs, on the road between the two places. in a high ledge on the bank of the Cow-Pasture River. is the celebrated " blowing- core." described in Jefferson's Notes. The mouth of the cave is 20 or 30 feet above the road. in shape semi- circular, and in hoight about 4 feet. It has been explored for a
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BARBOUR COUNTY.
considerable distance. It is said that a small dog who entered found his way out through some unknown passage. When the internal and external atmosphere are the same, there is no percep- tible current issuing from it. In intense hot weather, the air comes out with so much force as to prostrate the weeds at the entrance. In a warm day in June, in 1843, as Dr. John Brockenbrough, the principal proprietor of the Warm Springs, was passing in his carriage, he sent a little child to the mouth of the cave, who let go before it a handkerchief, which was blown by the current over the horses' heads in the road, a distance of 30 or 40 feet. In in- tense cold weather, the air draws in. There is a flowing and ebb- ing spring on the same stream with the blowing-cave, which sup- plies water-power for a grist-mill, a distillery, and a fan-yard. It flows irregularly. When it commences, the water bursts out in a body as if let loose from a dam.
GEN. SAMUEL BLACKBURN, who resided in this county, was born about the year 1758. He was one of the most successful orators and criminal lawyers of his time in Virginia. He was the father of the anti-duelling law of the state, which we believe was the first passed in the country after the war of the revolution. Among other penalties, it pro- hibited any one who had been engaged in a duel from holding offices of trust in the gift of the state. Some years after, a gentleman who had challenged another was elected to the legislature. When he came forward to take the customary outh, his violation of this law was urged agemist hun. Some, however, contended that the circuinstances of the case were so aggravating that its provisions ought to be disregarded, and fears were enter- tained that this sentiment might prevail. Then it was that Gen. Blackburn, who was a member, came forward with a speech of great power in opposition. The result was the triumph of the law in the rejection of the member. Gen. B. died in 1835, aged about 27. He was a man of much benevolence. At his death, he by will manumitted all his slaves, and provided for their transportation to Liberia.
The Hot Springs are 5 miles from the Warm, in the same beau- tiful valley with the latter. These springs stand high in public favor. There are several baths here, called the Hot Spouts. Their highest temperature is 106 degrees.
" The beneficial effects of hot spouts, topically applied, are so miraculous, in many painful and obstinate complaints, that words cannot adequately describe them ; therefore the prisoners of pain are strongly recommended to expose their rheumatic joints, gouty toes, and enla.god Hvors, to the comfortable outpourings of these healing steains. The water of the Hot Springs contains nitrogen and carbonic acid, carbonate of lime, sulpbato of lime, sulphate of soda, sulphate of magnesia, muriate of soda, silica, and a trace of oxide of iron. It may be taken internally with much advantage, particularly as a sure and gentle diuretic.
" The effect of this bath on rheumatic and gouty affections, and on old deep-seated and ohronio complaints, that medicine does not seem to reach, is very beneficial. Is restores the surface tu a good condition, and promotes the healthy action of the skin ; and every person who drinks the water of the various sulphur springs, should afterwards stop here two or three weeks, and try the virtue of the boiler. There are, near the hotel, a hot and cold spring issuing so near each other, that you can dip the thumb and fore, finger of the same band into hot and cold water at the same time."
BARBOUR.
BARBOUR Was formed in 1813. from Harrison, Lewis, and Ran- dolph, and named from the distinguished Barbour family : it is 30
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BARBOUR COUNTY.
miles long and 15 wide. The eastern part is mountainous, the western hilly, and much of the soil is fertile and adapted to gra- zing. It is thickly settled at the heads of Simpson's and Elk creeks, and on Buchannon and Tygart's Valley Rivers. Estimated population 5,000. Philippi, the county-seat,-formerly Boothe's Ferry of Randolph, --- is situated 240 miles aw. of Richmond, and 30 se. of Clarksburg, on the east bank of Tygart's Valley River, in a fertile country. It contains about a dozen dwellings, and has in its vicinity an abundance of coal and iron ore of an excellent quality.
The tract of country comprehended in the limits of this county, was the first permanently settled in northwestern Virginia. The following, relating to the settling of this portion of Virginia, is drawn from Withers' Border Warfare, published in 1831, -- a work from which we have obtained considerable information respecting this portion of the state.
The comparative security which succeeded the treaty of 1765, contributed. to advance the prosperity of the Vinguda frontiers, and soon induced the setting of several places on the Monongahela and its branches. and on the Ohio river. The first settlement was that made on the Buchannon a fork of the Typart's Valley River, and was induced by the flattering account given by two brothers, who had dwelt there under rather unpleasant circumstances.
In 1761, four soldiers deserted from Fort Pitt, and after some wanderings, encaniped in the glades over to the head of the Yougho'gans, where they remained about twelve months. Two of them, in an excur- sion among the settlers at Looney creek, were recognised and apprehended as deserters ; but John and Samuel Pringle-escaped to their camp in the glades, where they remained till some time in the year 1704.
During this year, and while in the employ of John Simpson, (a trapper who had come there in quest of furs.) they determined on removing further west. Simpson was induced to this by the prospect of en joying the woods free from the intrusion of other hunters. (the glade's having begun to be a common hunone-ground for the inhabitants of the South Branca; while a regard for their personal safety, caused the Pringles to avoid a slination in which they might be exposed to the observation of other mnen.
In journeying through the wilderness, and after having crossed Cheat River, at the Horse-Shoe, a quar- rel arose between Shupson and one of the Pringles; and notwithstanding that peace and harmony were so necessary to their mutual safety and comfort, yet each so far indulged the angry passions which had been excited, as at length to produce a separation.
Sungson crossed over the Valley River, near the mouth of Pleasant creek, and passing on to the head of another water course, gave to it the name of Simpson's creek. Thence he went westwardly, and fell over on a strenin which he called Elk : at the month of this he erected a camp, and continued to reside for more than twelve month. During this Star he neither saw the Pringles, nor any other nomin bene; and at the expiration of it, went to the South Branch, where he disposed of his furs and skins, and then returned to and continued at his encampment at the month of Elk, until permanent settlements were inue in its vicinity.
The Pringles kept up the Valley River till they observed a large right-hand fork, (now Buchannon,) which they areended some telles ; and at the mouth of a shrill brineb. (afterwardis called Turkey run.) they took up their abode in the cavity of a large syenmore tive. The stump of this is still to be seen, and is an object of no little veneration with the immediate descendants of the first settlers.
The situation of these men, during a residence here of severdt yours, although rendered somewhat ne- cessary by their previous conduct, could not have been very easy net. Deserters from the army, a con- stant fear of discovery filled their minds with inquietude. In the vicinity of a savage the the tomahawk and scalping kaste were ever present to their unaginations. Rewit from eachized am. their sontde was hourly interrupted by the frightful shnieks of the panther, or the hideous howlings ot the wolf. And though the herds of buffalo, elk, and deer, which gambolled sportively around. enabled them emily to supply their larder; yet, the want of salt, of bread. and of every species of kitchen vegetable. must have agated their relish for the otherwise delicious loin of the one, and haunch of the others. The low stite of their little magazine, too, while it limited their hunting to the bare procuration of articles of subsistence, caused them, from a fear of discovery, to shrink at the iden of being driven to the settle- ments for a supply of ammunition. And not until they were actually reduced to two loads of powder, could they be induced to venture again into the vicinity of their follow-men. In the latter part of the year 1767. John left his brother, and intending to make for a trading post on the Shenandoah, appointed the period of his return.
Samuel Pringle, in the absence of John, suffered a good deal. The stock of provisions left hita he- etine entirely exhausted-ono of his loads of powder was expended in a fruitless attempt to shoot a back-his brother had already delayed his return several days longer than was intended, and he was ap- prehensive dois he had been recognized, taken to Port Pat, and would probably never get back. With his remaining load of powder, however, he was fortunate enough to kill a fine buffalo ; and John soon after rotirne ! with the news of peace, both with the Indians and P'reuch. The two brothers agreed to leave their retirement.
There was mess habitation was not left without some regret. Every object an and had become more or less endeared to them. The tree, in whose hollow they had been so frequently sheltered from storm and tempest, was regarded by them with so great reverence, that they resolved, so soon as they could prevail on a. few others to accompany them. again to return to this asylum of their exile.
In a population such as then composed the chief part of the South Branch settlement this was no dif
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ficult matter. All of them were used to the frontier manner of living ; the most of them had gone thich- er to acquire land; many had failed entirely in this object, while others were obliged to occupy poor and broken stations of the river, the fake botones having been previously located. Add to this the pas- sion for hunting, (which was a ruling one with many.) and the comparative scarcity of game in their neighborhood, and it need not excite surprise that the proposition of the Pringles to form a settimment in such a country as they represented that on Bachannon to he, was eagerly embraced by many.
In the fall of the en suing year, (1768.) Summuel Pringle, and several others who wished first to examine for themselves, visited the country which had been so long occupied by the Pringles alone. Being pleas- ed with it, they in the following sprang, with a few others, repaired thither with the view of cultivating as much corn as would serve their Giailies the first year after their emigration. And having examined the country, for the purpose of selecting the most desirable situations, some of them proceeded to im- prove the spots of their choice. Jolin Jackson ( who was accompanied by his sons, George and Edward) settled at the mouth of Turkey rue, where his daughter, Mrs. Davis, now lives-John Hacker higher up on the Buchannon River. where Bush's fort was afterwards established, and Nicholas Heavenor now lives -Alexander and Thomas Sleeth, near to Jackson's, on what is now known as the Forenash plantation. The others of the party ( Willim Hacker, Thonmis and Jesse Hughes, John and W.Borta Bude't and John Brown) appear to have employed their time exclusively in hunting; neither of them making any improvement of land for his own benefit. Yet were they. of very considerable service to the new settle- anent. Those who had commenced clearing land, were supplied by them with abundance of meat, while in their hunting excursions through the country, a better knowledge of it was obtained, than could have been acquired had they been engaged in making improvements.
In one of these expeditions they discovered, and gave name to Stone-coal creek : which flowing west- wardly, induced the supposition that it discharged itself directly into the Ohio. Descending this creek, to ascertain the fict. they came to its confluence with a river, which they then called, and has since been known as the West Fork. After having gone some distance down the river they returned by a different route to the settlement, better pleased with the land on it and some of its tributaries, than with that on Buchannon.
Soon after this, other emigrants arrived under the guidance of Samuel Pringle. Among them were John and Benjamin Cutright, who settled on Buchannon, where Jobn Ontright the yonager. now lives; and lenry Rute, who improved just above the mouth of Fink's run. Before the arrival of Samuel Prin- po Iche Happy bed Bonn to improve the spot which Pringle had chosen for himself. To prevent and onpleasant result. Hacker agreed that if Pringle would clear as much land on a creek which had been recently di -covered by the hunters, as he had on Buchannon, they could then exchange places, Comply- ing with this condition, Pringie took possession of the farm on Buchannon, and Hacker of the land hu- proved by Pringle on the creek, which was hence called Hacker's creek. John and William Ridelif then likewise settled on this stream -- the former on the farm where the Rev. John Mitchel now lives : the latter at the place now owned by William Powers, Esq. Those comprise all the improvements which were made on the upper brasches of the Monongahela, in the years 1769 and 1770.
At the close of the working season of 1769, some of these adventarers went to their families on the South Branch: and when they returned to gather their crops in the fall, found them entirely destroyed. In their absence the buffdoes, no longer awed by the presence of min, had trespassed on their enclo. sures and eaten their cora to the ground; this delayed the removal of their families till the winter of 3770.
Soon after the happening of this event, other settlements were made on the upper branches of the Monongahela River. Capt. James Booth and John Thomas established themselves on what has been since called Booth's creek-the former at the place now owned by Jesse Martin, and the latter where William Martin at present resides, and which is, perhaps, the most valuable landed estate in northwest- ern Virginia. off the Ohio River.
Previous, however, to the actual settlement of the country above the forks of the Monongahela, some few families (in 1767) had established themselves in the vicinity of Fort Redstone, now Brownsville, in Pennsylvania.
BEDFORD.
BEDFORD Was formed from Lunenburg county, in 1753. It is 35 miles long, with an average breadth of 25. The surface is un- even, and the soil is naturally very fertile, but has been injured by the injudicious cultivation of tobacco. It is bounded on the north by the James River, and on the south by the Staunton. Goose and Otter creeks flow through it, the latter of which gives name to the noted Peaks of Otter. Population in 1920, 20,253; in 1810, whites 11,016, slaves 8,864, free colored 323 --- total 20,203.
Liberty, the county-seat, is on the Lynchbargh and Salem turn- pike, 26 miles sw. of the former, and contains ilve mercantile stores, one Baptist, one Presbyterian, one Episcopal, and one Meth- odist church, a large and handsome court-house, built in 1834, and a population of about 600. This neat and flourishing village is the admiration of travellers,-being surrounded by a beautiful. rolling, ferdle country, bounded by a back-ground of great sublim-
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.ity. The Blue Ridge, running to the right and left across the horizon for many miles, here towers to its greatest height in the celebrated peaks of Otter, which, although seven miles distant. appear in the immediate vicinity. These apparently isolated peaks, with one or two exceptions, are the loftiest mountains in the southern states. The estimated height of the most elevated,
The Peaks of Otter from near Liberty.
the northern peak, is 4200 feet above the plain, and 5307 feet above the level of the ocean, which is more than a mile in height. The most southerly, or the conical peak, is much visited. A writer in the Southern Literary Messenger gives the following glowing de- scription of a trip to the peaks :
After riding about a mile and a quarter, we came to the point beyond which horses cannot be taken, and dismounting our steeds, commenced ascending on foot. The way was very steep, and the day sa warm, that we had to hait often to take breath. As we approached the summit, the trees were all of a dearticle growth, and twisted and gnarled by the starne of that high region There were also, a finy blackberry bushes bearing their fruit long after the season had passed below. A few minutes longer brought us to where the trees ceased to grow ; but a huge mass of rocks, piled wildly on the top of each other, finished the termination of the peak. Our path lay for some distance around the base of it, and under the overbringing battements; and rather descending for awhile until it ted to a part of the pile, which could with some effort he served. There was no taddes nor any art first stepswand the only means of event was by climbing over the successive rocks. We soon stood upon the wild platform of One of nature's mowy innenificent observatories-isolated, and "apparently above all things the torres. trial, and looking down upon, and over, a beautiful, variegated, and at the same time grind, wild, won- de rint, and almost boundless panorama. Indeed, i: was literally boundless : for there was a con: ider. ble haze resting upon sonto parts of " the world below ;" so that, in the distant horizon, the earth and sky seemed insensibly to mingle with each other.
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