Historical collections of Virginia : containing a collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c. relating to its history and antiquities ; together with geographical and statistical descriptions ; to which is appended, an historical and descriptive sketch of the District of Columbia., Part 42

Author: Howe, Henry, 1816-1893. cn
Publication date: 1856
Publisher: Charleston, S. C. : Wm. R. Babcock
Number of Pages: 1148

USA > Virginia > Historical collections of Virginia : containing a collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c. relating to its history and antiquities ; together with geographical and statistical descriptions ; to which is appended, an historical and descriptive sketch of the District of Columbia. > Part 42

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'We returned to the inn. I had an hour and a half of rest ; and was found with my companions on the way, soon after 3 o'clock. Most of the company showed that they nad only been awakened, like a child, to be put in a new position, and their heads were nodding about in all directions. About 7 o'clock, however, we approached a stat which is of great reputed beauty, and we pledged the coachman to stop, that we might have a fair sight of it. You leave the road by a little by-path, and after pursuing it for a short distance, the whole scene suddenly breaks upon you. But how shall I describe it ? The great charm of the whole is greatly connected with the point of sight, which is the finest imaginable. You comic suddenly to a spot which is called the Hawk's Nest. It projects on the scene, and is so small as to give standing to only some half dozen persons. It has on its head an old picturesque pine ; and it breaks away at your feet abruptly and in perpendicular lines, to a depth of more than 1000 feet. On this standing, which, by its elevated and detached character, affects you like the Monument, the forest rises above and around you. Beneath and before you is spread a lovely valley. A peaceful river glides down it, reflecting, like a mirror, all the lights of heaven -- washes the foot of the rocks on which you are standing-and then winds away into another valley at your right. The trees of the wood, in all their variety, stand out on the ver- dant bottoms, with their heads in the sun, and casting their shadows at their feet ; but so diminished, as to look more like the pictures of the things than the things themselves. The green hills rise on either hand and all around, and give completeness and beauty to the scene ; and beyond these appears the gray outline of the more distant mountains, bestowing grandeur to what was supremely beautiful. It is exquisite. It convers to you the idea of perfect solitude. The hand of man, the foot of man, seem never to have touched that valley. To you, though placed in the midst of it, it seems altogether in- Accessible. Yon long to stroll along the margin of those sweet waters, and repose under the shadows of these beautiful trees : but it looks impossible. It is solitude, best of a most soothing, not of an appalling character-where sorrow might learn to forget her griefs, and folly begin to be wise and happy.

MARSHALL'S PILLAR.

270

HIF HANNA COUNTY.

On Di : Thevart vek, in this county, are the remains of an ancient. which occupies an area of about 20 square rods. The were built of stone, and, it is supposed, were 6 ft. high, and .. st the base 7 ft. thick. The reader will find a plan, drawn by A. Beckley, and a description by Jsaae Craig, in the American Pioneer for Sept. 1842.

FLOYD.

FLOYD was formed in 1831 from Montgomery, and was named from John Floyd, governor of Virginia from 1829 to 1834. It is 35 m. long, with a mean width of 15 m. It is watered by Little River, a branch of New River. The surface is mountainous, and the soil generally more adapted to grazing than grain. Horses, oxen, hogs, and sheep, are the principal staples. There were in IS 10. whites 4,123, slaves 521, fee colored 2, total, 4.458. Jackson- ville, or Floyd C. B., is a small village 215 m. sw. of Richmond.

The Buffalo Knob, in this county, is a very lofty eminence, from the top of which the view is sublime. On the north, east, and west, the beholder is amazed at the boundless · succession of mountains rising beyond mountains -- while far away to the south, the plain seems to stretch to an interminable length. On the east, the knob is accessible on horseback, being two miles in height from the beginning of the ascent to the loghest point : on the west it breaks off precipitately, and presents the shape of the animal whose name it bears. This mountain is seen 60 or 80 miles, towering above all others. On the highest point is a space of about 30 acres, which is so elevated that not any trees grow there ; and in the warmest days of summer, the visitor requires thick eloining to protect him from the cold. The spot is covered with fine grass, strawberry-vines, and gooseberry and currant-bushes. The fruit upon them is of superior flavor, but it does not ripen until two or three months later than that upon the lowlands.

FLUVANNA.

FLUVANNA Was formed in 1777, from Albemarle. It is 26 m. Jong, and 16 wide. The Rivanna enters it from Albemarle, and flowing se. through the co., divides it nearly equally. The surface is generally broken, excepting between the James and the Rivan- na, where there is a large tract of' barren level land. The soil on the rivers is good, and that on the James extremely fertile. Gold has been found and worked near Palmyra. Mach tobacco is raised in the county, and of a superior quality. Pop., whites 4,415, slaves 4,146, free colored 221 ; total, 8,819.

Palmyra, the county-seat, lies on the Rivanna, 62 miles westerly from Richmond. It contains about 20 dwellings. Columbia. on the Rivanna, at its junction with the James, is a village somewhat larger. At the Union Mills, on the Rivanna, in the vw, part of the county, is an extensive cotton factory, situated in the midst of beautiful mountain and river scenery.

FRANKLIN COUNTY.

At the confluence of the swo branches of the James, in this county, is a point of land called the Point of Fork, where, in the latter part of the revolution. a state arsenal was established, and a large quantity of military stores collected. When the state was invaded by Cornwallis. Baren Steuben had charge of this post. When Tarleton was detached to Charlottesville, Lieut .- Col. Simone was sent to destroy the magazines at the Point of Fork. and he was ultimately to be joined by Tarleton, to assist his intended opera- tions, The following details of this excursion are from Girardin .

With their accustomed engerness and activity, the two indefatigable and dreaded par- tisans entered upon the execution of their respective tasks. This double movement ren- dered Stenben's situation unusually perilous. The extreme difficulty of obtaining prompt and correct information respecting the British and their schemes-the severe precautions which Simeoc took for securing every person met or seen on his route, effectually con cealed his march from the baren. The latter, however, became apprized of Tarleton'y rapid advance. Imagining himself the immediate object of it. he lost no time in trans- porting his stores to the south side of the Fluvanna, intending himself speedily to follow with the whole division under his command. When Simcoe reached the Point of Fork the American stores had been removed, and Stech u's detachment had crossed the river except abnt 30 men, then awaiting the return of the boats to embark and join thei friends. There min unavoidably fell into the hands of the British cavalry. The river was deep and .unfordable, and all the boats had been secured on the sonin side of it Simcor's main object was, therefore, frustrated. Under the mortification arising from this disappointment, a singular stratagem occurred to his wily mind. It was to impress the baron with the belief that the troops nov at the Point of Fork were the advance of the British army, ready to overwhelm him ; and thus to work upon his fears so far as to induce him to sacrifice most of the stores which had been transported over the Fluvauna. For this purpose he encamped on the heights opposite to Steuben's new station, advan. tageously displaying his force, and by the number of his fires suggesting a probability of the main body, headed by Cornwallis. having actually reached the neighborhood. The baron, who had been informed that the corps under Tarleton threatened his lelt, now fancied himself in imminent danger. Retreating precipitately during the night. he marched near 30 miles from the Point of Fork, abandoning to the enemy such stores as could not be removed. In the morning, Simeoc observing the success of his stratagens. and wishing to give it still further effect, procured some small canoes, and sent across the river Capt. Stephenson, with a detachment of light infantry, and Cornet Wolsey with four iris-ars. The farmer was directed to destroy the stores and arms which ur baron had left behind in the hurry and confusion of his premature retreat ; and the latter. to meant his hussars, who had carried their saddles over with them, on such strageling borses as he was likely to find, to patrol some miles on the route taken by Stubeg -- is short, to exhibit every appearance of eager and formidable pursuit. Both these orders were successtily executed. Stephenson performed, without delay or annoyance, th task of destruction assigned to him ; and Wolsey so confirmed the belief of Steuben that the whole British army was close in his rear. that lo accelerated his march, r tiring still further from de river. HEis object was to reswac bis original destination, and join & p Greene; but he received fresh orders not to leave the state, so long as Cornwallis should continue three. On the militie under Lawson. a similar injunction was land. British. historians have greatly exaggerated the loss sustained by the Americans at the Point of Fork. Of their thrasonic accounts, undoubted evidence is in the hands of the anthor of this narrative.

FRANKLIN.

FRANKLIN was formed in 1784. from Bedford and Heury : its length is 20, with a mean breadth of 20 miles. The Roanoke runs on its south boundary, and the county is intersected by numerou.

272

FREDEN

small creeke. The surface is rolling, and the Blue Ridge forms its western boundary ane soil is on a clay foundation, and is well adapted to farming. The county produces very large crops of tobacco, Indian corn, oats, wheat, and some cotton. The tanning business is extensively carried on. Population in 1230, 14911: 1840, 15,832. Rocky Mount, the county-seat, lies 179 miles sw. of Richmond : it derives its name from an abrupt precipice in the vicinity. The town contains about 30 dwellings, and near it is an extensive irou fornace. Union Hall is a smaller post-village, at. the intersection of the road from Pittsylvania C. H. to Rocky Mount. Iron ore, some of which is of a superior quality, is found in various parts of the county.

FREDERICK.

FREDERICK was formed in 1738, from Orange : it is 25 miles long. with a mean width of 18 miles. The soil is highly productive, and its surface diversified. Opequan, Sieepy, and Back Creeks rise in this county, and flow into the Potomac .. A rail-road extends frem Winchester to the Baltimore and Olio Roll-Road at Harper's Ferry. Population, whites IL.110, slaves 2,302, free colored 821; total, 11.212.

Newtown, or Stephensburg, is a neat and thriving village, 8 miles south of Winchester, on the macadamized road to Staunton. There are about 100 dwellings, 2 churebes, a market-house, about a dozen shops for the manufacture of wagons, (for which the place is noted,) together with other mechanical and mercantile establish= ments, and a population of about 899, Stephensburg was estab- lished by law in 1758, and named after Peter Stephens, its founder, who came to Virginia with Joist Hite in 1732. It was settled almost exclusively by Germans, whose descendants long preserved the customs and language of their ancestors. Middletown lies 5 miles s. of S ophen burg, on the same road. It contains 1 Metho- dist and 1 Episcopal church, and about 60 dwellings. Gainsboro', Brucetown, and Wbbeball. are small places, the first of which contains 2 churches, and about 30 dwellings. Jordan's White Sal- phur Springs, 6 miles s. of Winchester, have lately come into no- tice, and are growing in popular favor. The waters are said to resemble the celebrated White sulphur Springs of Greenbrier.

Winchester. the county-seat, is 74 miles from Washington city. 146 from Richmond, and 30 from Harper's Ferry. Next to Wheel. ing. It is the largest town west of the Blue Ridge. It is in the beautiful and fertile valley of Virginia, and is surrounded by a rich and abundant country. The town is well and substantially built, the streets cross each other at right angles, and are generally paved, and the houses are mostly of brick or stone. As a whole, it is very compact, and has a business, city-like aspect. The pub- lic buildings are a court-house, jail, market-house, masonie hall,

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FREDERICK COUNTY.

S and a lyceum. There are 2 newspaper printin my, 2 banks -- the Farmers' Branch Bank ar

Map monde-

Loudon-street, Winchester

Valley-a Savings Institution, about 50 stores of different kinds, and a variety of mechanical and manufacturing establishments. 12 churches-2 Presbyterian, 1 Episcopal,* 2 Baptist, 2 Methodist. 2 Lutheran, 1 German Reformed, 1 Friends, and I Catholic -- and a population in 1840 of 3,454. A rail-road connects Winchester with Harper's Ferry.

" Tradition informs u- that the ground on the edge of the present site of Winchester, was occupied by a large and powerful tribe of Indians, called the Shawnces, or Shaw- anees, and some springs at that point are called the Skamener Springs at this day. The earliest accounts of the settlement of Winchester state that there were two houses ou ks present location as early as 1738, situated near the town run ; but its establishment as a town commenced in Feb., 1752, in the 25th year of the reign of George IL., when the General Assembly passed an ' act for the establishment of the town of Winchester. " Je 1738 it was enlarged in consideration et an additional quartey of land tring laid off in'lots by Col. James Wood, now called in the plot of the town, Wood's addition. Tras. tees were then appointed, consisting of Lord Fairies, Col. Martin, and others ; vide Henning's Statutes at Large, vol. 7, p. 135. Additions to the town were also made by Lord Fairfax. Col. Wood is therefore entitled to the honor of being the founder. Win- chester is mentioned by General Washington as being one of the points in his route. in his celebrated mission, by order of Governor Dinwiddie, to the French authorities on the Ohio. He came from Alexandria to Winchester, where he procured baggage horses, &c. This was in November. 1753.

* The Best Episcopal Church, in the Valley of Virginia, was erected in Winchester. "The following relating to it is from Hawks' History of the Protestant Episcopal Church in Virginia, published in 1836. " Morgan Morgan was a native of Wales, whener he emigrated in early life to the province of Pennsylvania. . In the year 1726. be removed to what is now the county of Berkeley, in Virginia, and built the first caliin which wax created on the south side of the Potomnie. between the Blue Ridge and the North Mann- tain. He was a man of exemplary piety, devoted to the Church ; and in the year 1740, Dasucisted with Dr. John Briscoe and Mr. Fite, he erected the first Episcopal Church in the valley of Virginia. 'Imis memorial of his zeal, it is believed, is still at ahang. and now forms that part of the parish of Winchester which is known as . Mill Creek Church.'"

`274

FREDERICK COUNTY.

" In " - F -

udian warfare that succeeded, Washington fixed his head- hich was then a frontier settlement, the North mountain, ester, being the boundary. From the fear occasioned by the ! Indians, thus place was alnost the only settlement west of age of mountains was, as late as 1756, the northwesteru fon. At . e frontier sell. blic stores, to a large amount, were deposited at Winchester for After the distinguished action at Great Meadows. Jaled. 175% Washington returned with his regiment to Winchester to recruit ; soon after which. ho was pourd by a i s companies from Maryland and North Carolina ; after which pin- forcement they were ordered, by the lieutenant governor, to march immediately over the Alleghany to drive the French from Fort Duquesne, or build one in its vicinity. After the disastrous defeat of Braddock, Washington, with the remains of the brave Vigan troops, retreated to Westchester. Upon the invasion of the frontiers by the French and Indians, Washington, then on his way to Williamsburg, the seat of government, was overtaken by an express, below Fredericksburg, with the intelligence that the French and indians had broken in open the frontier attements, and were murdering and can- turing women and children, burning houses, destroying crops, &e., and that the troops stationed among them were insufficient for their protection. He immediately hastened back to Winchester, where the utmost confusion and alarm prevailed. His attempts to raise the militia were unsuccessful. He sent urgent orders to the county lieutenants, east of the Blue Ridge, to hasten their militia to Winchester; but before these orders could be executed, the enemy, which had done so much injury, and caused so much adarra. hyd recrossed the Alleshany mosmain. Cool. Washington. after repeated inef- fecha & gotts maropse the government to act on the off grive, and adopt a more efficient system of warfare, by sending a force sufficient to destroy Fort Duquesne, at length prevailed. and Gen. Forbes was ordered to undertake the campaign for its reduction. On the 24th of May, 1758, orders were issued to Washington's regiment to rendezvous at Winchester, and be in readiness to march in 15 days. June 24, the Virginia troops, in puissance to the orders they had received, moved in detachments from Winchester to Fort Cumberland. where they assembled early in July. Upon the reduction of Fort De. quesne-when its name was changed to Pitt, in honor of the then British Minister --- Col. Washington, after furnishing 200 men from his regiment to garrison the fort, marched the rest back to Winchester, whence he enon proceeded to Williamsburg to take bas zent in the House of Delegates, of which he had been elected a member by the county of Frederick, while at Fort Cumberland. During these contests a fort was built at Win- chester, the remains of which are still visible at the north end of the principal street. In Henning's Statutes, vol. 7, page 33. we find the 16th clause of a law passed March, 1756, which refers to this fort, and the appropriation for its erection, in these words : ' And whereas, it is now judged necessary that a fort should be immediately erected in the town of Winchester, county of Frederick, for the protection of the adjecent inhab- itants against the barbarities daily committed by the French and their Indian allies ; ba if therefore envoted, that the governor, or commander-in-chief of the colony for the time being, is hereby empowered and desired to order a fort to be built with all possible dis- patch, in the aforesaid town of Winchester ; and that his honor give such orders and instructions for the immediate effecting and garrisoning the same, as he shalt think necessary for the purpose aforesaid?' The act also appropriates the sum of 21000 for carrying the above provision into effect. This fort was called Fort Loudon, in honor of the British general, Lord Loudon, who had been appointed to the command of the British troops in America."

LOUDON ST.

The annexed sketch is a representation of time remains of Fort Loudon, engraved from a drawing in the possession of the " Virginia Historical and Philosophical Society." " It appears to have been & field-work; or redoubt, having four bastions, whose Ranks and faces were each 25 feet, with curtaius 96 feet." The dotted lines represent the present course of Loudon street. It is stated in the History of the Valley, upon authority entitled to the highest respect, the gentleman wardishing the information pourron t having been informed by Washington's officers, that Washington marked out the site of this fort and superintended its erection ; that he bought a lot Winchester, had a blacksmith shop erected on it, and brought from Mount Vernon his own blacksmith zo

275

FREDERICK COUNTY.

prake the necessary iron-work for the out. The very spot is pointed out where Wasi- ington's own residence was situated. It is stated that his chamber was above the gate- was of the fort, in a situation commanding a view of the principal street of the stone. This for theted an are af led an arre, and there is still touch of is embanktrots and mounds remaining. 'There is also a well, from which water now rises to the sundice, ennk through the solid rock 103 feet. The labor of throwing up this ort, vid vinkire this well, was said to have been performed by Washington's regiment. The inten tained a strong garrison ; and it is stated, by one of the oldest inhabitants uf Wirehesten, to have mounted six 18 pounders, six 12 pounders, six 6 pounders, 4 swivels, and : howy. itzers ; and to this day grape-shot and cunnon-balls are found there. These catbut were removed from Winchester early in the war of the revolution. This fort was said to have been once reconnoitred by a French officer, but never was attacked by the eneiny. There were a large number of Hessian and German prisoners confived at Winchester in the war of the revolution. In 1780, barracks were erected for them 4 miles west of the town. In 1781, their numbers had increased to 1600.

MAJOR PETER HIELPHISTINE, of Winchester. was a native of Germany, and a patriot of the American revolution. He was a major in the 8th Virginia regiment, command- ed by Col. Muhlenberg. This corps was composed of young men of German extraction, send frequently called the German region. at. Je s campaign at the south. he contract- od a disease from exposure, returned, and died in. Winchester, and now lies buried in the Jacherau grave-vard.

GEN. DANIEL ROBERDEAU, an officer of the revolution, alen lies buried in one of the Trave-cards in Winchester. His mominvent states lus death as having taken place Jan. 5, 1795, at the age of 68 years. He was from the Isle of France, and a Hugcenot. His descendants are scattered over Virginia. He first settled in Pennsylvania, where he built a fort at Wyoming, at his own expense, which was destroyed by the Indians. He was a follower of Whitefield, and a modest and estimable man.

LORD FAIRFAX was buried under the old Episcopal church, which was on the public square. The land on which it stood was given by him to the society, for the construc. tion of the church. This structure. which was of stone, was taken down about 12 or 14 years since. The bones of Fairfax were removed, and placed under the new Episco. pal church. lu this house there is a monumental slab to his memory. At the time of his disinterineut, a large mass of silver was found, which was the mounting to his coffin. There is now in Winchester an old building esed as a stable, which was once s tavern, in which it is said Fairfax occasionally held levees. Hlis permanent residence was at Greenway Court, 13 miles st. of Winchester. (See p. 235.)

The following incident, in the life of Chief-Justice Marshall, is stated to have taken place at McGuire's hotel in Winchester, which stood on the site of the one shown on the right of the foregoing view in London-street. It was a plain, unpainted building, and was destroyed many years since. The account given below was originally published in the Winchester Republican :

It is not long since a gentleman was travelling in one of the counties of Virginia, and about the close of the day stopped at a public house to obtain refreshment, and spend the night. Hle had been there but a short time, before an old man alighted from his gig. with the apparent intention of becoming his fellow-guest at the same house. As the oid man drove up, ke observed that both the shafts of his gig were broken, and that they were held together by withes formed from the back of a hickory sapling. Our traveller observed further, that he wes plainly clad, that his kuee.buckles were loosened, and that something Like a eligence purreded his dress. Converting han to be one of the hourst yromaury of our laad, the courtesies of strangers passed between them, and they entered the tavern. It was - boot the same time that an addition of three or four young gentle. men was made to their number -- most, if not all of them, of the legal profession. Aa soon as they becore conveniently accommodated, the conversation was turned by the latter upon an eloquent harangue which had that day here displayed at the ber. It, www replied by the others. that he had witnessed, the same day, a degree of stiquence no doubt equal, but that it was from the pulpit. Something like a sarcastic rejounder was inesa to the eloquence of the pulpit ; and a warm and able altercation ensued, in which the taerity of the Chastan religion because the subject of discussion. From six o'clock anti

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FREDERICK COUNTY.

eleven, the young champions wielded the sword of argument, adducing with ingenuity and ability, every thing that could be said pro and con. Dering this protracted period. the old gendeman listened with all the meekness and modesty of a child; as if he was adding new information to the stores of his own mind ; or perhaps he was observedy. with philosophic eye, the faculties of the youthful mind, ond how new energie. a.c. evolved by repeated action ; or, perhaps, with patriotic emotion, he was reflecting dann the future destinies of his country, and on the rising generation upon whom thess i just destinies must devolve ; or, most probably, with a sentiment of moral and religies for- ing. he was collecting an argument which-characteristic of himself-no art would be " able to elude, and no force resist." Our traveller remained a spectator, and took no part in what was said.

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Author: Howe, Henry, 1816-1893. cn Publication date: 1856 Publisher: Charleston, S. C. : Wm. R. Babcock Number of Pages: 1148

Author: Howe, Henry, 1816-1893. cn
Publication date: 1856
Publisher: Charleston, S. C. : Wm. R. Babcock
Number of Pages: 1148