USA > Virginia > Historical collections of Virginia : containing a collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c. relating to its history and antiquities ; together with geographical and statistical descriptions ; to which is appended, an historical and descriptive sketch of the District of Columbia. > Part 50
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JAMES CITY COUNTY.
of quickly transmitting to Sir Henry Clinton the required assistance, Cornwallis attempted no pursuit, but in the course of the night crossed over into Jamestown Island, and soon afterwards proceeded to Portsmouth,
In this atfair, one hundred and eighteen of the continental troops, among whom were ten officers, were killed, wounded, or taken. The British state their loss, both in killed and wounded, at five officers and seventy privates.
Williamsburg, the seat of justice for the county, is 58 miles from Richmond, 12 from Yorktown, 68 from Norfolk, and 7 bomt Jamestown. It is finely situated, on a level plain, between the York and James, immediately ou the division line between James' City and York counties. It is laid out in parallel streets, with a Square in the centre of several acres, containing the county build- ings. Through it runs the principal street, which is very wide, and about a mile in length ; at one end of which is the college, and at the other the ruins of the old capitol.
Williamsburg, in its most palmy days, contained only a population of about 2,000. It has at present 1 Episcopal, 1 Bap- fist, and I Methodist church, and about 1,600 inhabitants, The Eastern Lunatic Asylum is located here. It consists of a lofty and extensive nile of brick buildings, enclosed hy a wall, in a pleasant area of several acres. The number of patients is gen- erally over one hundred ; and the institution is ably conducted, under the superintendence of Dr. John M. Galt.
There is an air of repose about this village city, so interest- ing from its historic associations. it is the oldest incorpo- rated town in Virginia. This immediate vicinity was first known as the Middle Plantations, and the town was first settled in 1032, from the adjoining settlements, principally from Jamestown. In 1698, the seat of government was removed here from that place. From a work* published a short time after, we make the follow- ing extract, principally relative to this place :
The first metropolis, Jamestown, was built in the most convenient place for trade, and security against the Indians ; but often received much damage, being twice burnt down, after which it never recovered its perfection --- consisting at present of nothing but abundance of brick rubbish and three or four good inhabited houses, though the parish is of pretty large extent, but less than others. When the state-house and. prison were burnt down, Governor Nicholson removed the residence of the governor, with the meetings of the general courts and general assemblies, to Middle Plantation, seven miles from James- town, in a healthier and more convenient place, and freer from the annoyance of mos- chetoes. Here he laid out the city of Williamsburg-in the form of a cipher, made of W and M -- on a ridge at the head springs of two great creeks, one running into James, and the other into York River, which are each navizable for sloops within a mile of the town ; at the head of which creek are good landings, and lots laid out, and dwelling houses and warehouses built ; so that this town is most conveniently situated, in the middle of the lower part of Virginia, commanding two noble rivers. not above four miles from either, and is much more commodious and healthful than if built upon a river.
Public buildings here of note are, the college, the capitol, the governor's house, and the church.
The college front, which looks due east, is double, and is 136 feet long. It is a lofty pile of brick buildings, adorned with. a cupola. At the north end ruus back a large wing, which is a handsome ball, answerable to which the chapel is to be built ; and
4 . The Present State of Virginia, by Hugh Jones, A. M., chaplain to the honoratie Aremany, and Intely minister of Jamestown, &c., in Virginia." This work is a sprall 12mo. of about 150 pages. It is very scarce. The only copies we have seen are in the libraries of Gov. Tazewell, and Peter Force, Eisyy of Washington city.
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JAMES CITY COUNTY.
there is a spacious piazza on the west side, from one wing to the other. It is approached by a good walk, and a grand entrance by steps, with good courts and gardens about it, with a good house and apartments for the Indian master and his scholars, and out- houses ; and a large pasture enclosed like a park, with about 150 acres adjoining, for occasional uses.
The building is beautiful and commodious, being first modelled by Sir Christopher Wren, adapted to the nature of the country by the gentlemen there : and sface it was burnt down it has been rebuilt, nicely contrived, altered, and adorned, by the ingenious direction of Governor Sportwood ; and is not altogether ulike Chelsea Hospital
'This royal foundation was granted and established by chanter, by King Willem and Queen Mary, and endowed by them with some thousand acres of land, with dones upon fors and skins, and a penny a pound for all tobacco transported from Virginia and Maryland to the other plantations ; to which have been made several additional bene- factions : as that handsome establishment of Mr. Boyle, for the education of Indians, with the many contributions of the country, especially a late one of $1000 to buy negroes for the college use and service.
The society is a corporation, established for a president, six masters, or professors, with a hundred scholars, more or less.
The salary of the president, Mr. James Blair, has been lately ordered to be reduced from $150 to £100 per annum.
'The salary of the fellows -- one of which I have been for several years -- is 280 per annum each ; with 20s. entrance, and 20s. a year for pupilage, for each scholar. The payments are sometimes made in current Spanish money, and sometimes in sterling bills.
When the college shall be completely finished, and scholarships founded, then is the trust to be transferred from the trustees to the president. and masters ; but at present it is managed by a certain number of governors or visitors -- one of which is yearly chosen rector-appointed first by the trustees, elected out of the principal and worthiest inhabitants. These appoint a person to whom they grant several privileges and allow- ances, to board and lodge the masters and scholars at an extraordinary cheap rate. This office is at present performed in the neatest and most regular and plentiful manner by Mrs. Mary Stith, a gentlewoman of great worth and discretion, in good favor with the gentry, and great esteem and respect with the common people.
The Indians who are upon Mr. Boyle's foundation have now a handsome apartment for themselves and their master, built near the college. The young Indians, procured from the tributary or foreign nations with much difficulty, were formerly boarded or lodged in the town, where abundance of them used to die, either through sickness, change of provision, and way of life ; or, as some will have it, often for want of proper necessaries, and due care taken with them. Those of them that have escaped well, and been taught to read and write, have, for the most part, returned to their home, some with, and some without baptism, where they follow their own savage customs and hea- thenish rites. A few of them have lived as servants among the English, or loitered and idled away their time in laziness and mischief. But it is a great pity that more eare is not taken of them after they are dismissed from school. They have admirable capaci- tics when their humors and tempers are perfectly understood.
Fronting the college, at ncar its whole breadth, is extended a whole street, mathemat- ically straight-for the first design of the town's form is changed to a much better --- just three quarters of a mile in length, at the other end of which stands the Capitol, a noble, beautiful, and commedious pile, as any of its kind, built at the cost of the late queen, and by direction of the governor. In this is the secretary's office, with all the courts of law and justice, held in the same form, and near the same manner, as in Eng. land, except the ecclesiastical courts. Here the governor and twelve counsellors sit as judges in the general courts, in April and October, whither trials and causes are re- moved from courts held at the court-houses, monthly, in every county, by a beach of justices and a county clerk. Here are also held the Oyer and Terminer courts, one in summer and the other in winter, added by the charity of the late queen, for the preven- tion of prisoners lying in jail above a quarter of a year before their trial. Here are also held court martials, by judges appointed on purpose for the trial of pirates ; thewine courts of admiralty, for the trial of ships for illegal trade. The building is in the form of an H nearly ; the scoretary's office and the general court taking up one side below stairs ; the middle being a bandsome portico, leading to the clerk of the assembly's office, and the House of Burgesses on the other side ; which last is not unlike the House of Commons. In each wing is a good staircase, one leading to the council-chamber, where the governor and council sit in very great state, in imitation of the king and coun-
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cil, or the lord chancellor and House of Lords. Over the portico is a large room where conferences are held, and prayers are read by the chaplain to the general assembly ; which office I have had the houor, for some years, to performn. At one end of this is a lobby, and near it is the clerk of the council's office; und at the other end are several chambers for the committees of eating, privileges, and directions ; and over aly there are several good offices for the receiver-general, for the auditor, and treasurer, &c .; and upon the middle is raised a lofty cupola with a large clock.
The whole is surrounded with a neat area, encompassed with a good wall, and near it is a strong sweet prison for criminals ; and on the other side of the open court another for debtors, when any are removed from the other prisons in each county ; but such prisoners are very rare, the creditors being there generally very merciful, and the laws " so favorable for debtors that some esteem them too indulgent.
The cause of my being so particular in describing the capitol, is because it is the best and most commodious pile of its kind that I have seen or heard of.
Because the state-house, James Town, and the college have been burnt down, there- fore is prohibited in the capitol, the use of fire, candles, and tobacco.
Parallel to the main street mentioned is a street on each side of it, but neither quite so long nor so broad ; and at proper distances are small cross-streets, for the convenience of communication. Near the middle stands the church, which is a large strong piece of brick-work in the form of a cross, nicely regular and convenient, and adorned as the best churches in London. This from the parish is called Cruton church, where I had the favor of being lecturer. Near this is the large octagon tower, which is the muga- zine, or repository of arms and ammunition, standing far from any house except James Town court-house : for the town is half in James Town county, and half in York county. Not far from bence is a large area for a market-place ; near which is a play- house and good bowling-green.
From the church runs a street northward, called Palace-street ; at the other end of which stands the palace, or governor's house, a magnificent structure, built at the public expense, finished and beautified with gates, fine gardens, offices, walks, a fine canal, orchards, &c., with a great number of the best aris, nicely posited, by the ingenious contrivance of the most accomplished Colonel Spotswood. This likewise has the orna- mental addition of a good cupola or lantern, illuminating most of the town upon birth- nights, and other nights of occasional rejoicings. At the capitol, at public times, may be seen a great number of handsom, well-dressed, compleat gentlemen ; and at the gov- ernor's house, upon birth nights, and at balls and assemblies, I have seen as fine an ap- pourance, as good diversion, and as splendid entertainments in Governor Spotswood's time, as I have seen anywhere else.
These buildings here described are justly reputed the best in all English America, and are exceeded by few of their kind in England.
Williamsburg is now incorporated and made a market-town, and governed by a mayor and alderman ; and is well stocked with rich stores of all sorts of goods. and well furnished with the best provisions and liquors. Here dwell several very good fami- lies, and more reside here at their own houses in public times. They live in the same neat mander, dress after the same modes, and behave themselves exactly as the gentry in London; most families of any note having a coach, chariot, berlin, or chaisc. The number of artificers here is daily augmented, as are the convenient ordinaries or inns, for the accommodation of strangers. The servants here, as in other parts of the county, are English, Scotch, Irish, or negroes. The town is regularly laid out in lots or square portions, sufficient cach for a house and garden, so that they don't build contiguous, whereby may be prevented the spreading danger of fire ; and this also affords a free passage for the air, which is very grateful in violent hot weather. .
Here, as in other parts, they build with brick, but most commonly with thaber Bued with ceiling, and cased with feather-edged plank, painted with white-lead and oil. gov- ered with shingles of cedar, &c., tarred over at first: with a passage generally through the middle of the house, for an air-draught in summer. Thus their houses are lasting ; dry and wann in winter, and cool in summer ; especially if there be windows enough to draw the air. Thus they dwell comfortably, genteelly, pleasantly, and plen- tiful, in this delightful, healthful, and, I hope, thriving city of Williamsburg.
The foregoing description of Williamsburg, published 120 years since, in many points resembles it at the present time. From then until 1779, when the cost of government was removed to Richmond, the town was the centre of the fashion, wealth, and learning of
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the "Old Dominion ;" the influence of which has left its impress upon the place, and the manners and characteristics of its present inhabitants. Being then " the residence of the governor -- the im- mediate representative of the sovereign-the royal state in which he lived, the polite and brilliant circle which he always had about him, didused their influence through the city and the circumja- cent country, and filled Williamsburg with a degree of emulation,
William and Mary College, Williamsburg.
taste, and elegance, of which we can form no conception by the appearances of the present day. During the session of the House of' Burgesses, too, these stately modes of life assumed their richest forms; the town was filled with a concourse of visitors, as well as citizens, attired in their gayest colors; the streets exhibited a continual scene of animated and glittering tumult ; the houses, of costly profusion."
Several of the buildings above described are yet standing : among which is the church and the octagon tower known as the " old magazine." In the church, a few years since, was to be seen the gubernatorial pew of Sir Alexander Spotswood, governor - of Virginia from 1710 to 1723. It was raised from the floor, cov- ered with a canopy, around the interior of which his name was written in gilt letters.
William and Mary College, now the principal support of the town, is, with the exception of Harvard University, the oldest lit- erary institution in the Union. It is distinguished for the very large proportion of its graduates who have arisen to endinence ; some of whom have held the highest stations in the nation.
"The college library contains somewhat less than four thousand volumes, of which many are theological. Some of the books were presented by Robert Dinwiddie. die, and have his coat of arms affixed, the crest, an eagle, and the motto, ' Ubi libertas, ibi patria.' In
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JAMES CITY COUNTY.
others was inscribed the name of Major-General Alexander Spots- wood. . Some were the gift of the former presidents of the college, and others of the Assembly of Virginia. Catesby's Natural His- tory of Carolina, Florida, and the Bahama Islands, was given (as appears from a note on the first page, in the hand-writing of Thomas Jefferson) on condition that it should never go out of the college. This work was printed London, 1754, with colored plates, in two volumes folio, in English and French."
The college was founded in 1692, in the reign of William and " Mary, who granted it a donation of 20,000 acres of land. (698 In 1793, the Assembly ordered that it should be built at Wil- liamsburg. "The college received a penny a lb. duty on certain tobaccos exported from Virginia and Maryland, which had been levied by the statute of the 25th of Charles II. The Assembly also gave it, by temporary laws, a duty on liquors imported, and skins and furs exported. From: these resources it received upwards of 3000 pounds, comminibus annis. The buildings are of brick, and sufficiently large for the accommodation of 100 students. By its chanter, dated the 6th of February, 1000, it was placed under the direction of not less than twenty visitors, and to have a pres- ident and six professors, who were incorporated. It was formerly allowed a representative in the General Assembly, Under this charter, a professorship of the Greek and Latin languages, a pro- fessorship of mathematics, one of moral philosophy, and two of- divinity were established. To these were annexed, for a sixth professorship, a considerable donation, by Mr. Boyle of England, for the instruction of the Indians and their conversion to Chris- tianity. This was called the professorship of Brafferton, from an estate of that name in England purchased with the moneys given. The admission of the learners of Latin and Greek filled the college with children. This rendering it disagreeable, and degrading to young men already prepared for entering on the sciences, they were discouraged from resorting to it, and thus the school for ma- thematics and moral philosophy, which might have been of some service, became of very little The revenues, too, were exhausted in accommodating those who came only to acquire the rudiments of science. After the revolution, the visitors, having no power to change those circumstances in the constitution of the college, which were fixed by the charter, and being. therefore, confined in. the number of professorships, undertook to change the object of the professorships. They excluded the two schools for divinity, and that for the Greek and Latin languages, and substituted others. At present it has nineteen acting visitors, and is under the super- intendeney of a president and five professors, embracing the pro- fessor of humanity, who bes charge of the classical department. There is also a law department in this institution ;" and in the town a flourishing male and female boarding-school.
The Rev. James Blair, D. D., was named president of William and Mary College in the charter, but is said not to have entered
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upon the duties of his office until 1729; he died in 3712, and was succeeded by the Rev. William Stith, (author of a history of Vir- pinia.) who died in 1950. The Rev. James Madison, D. D., (Bishop of Va.,) was president from 1777 to 1812. His successors have been the Rev. W. H. Wilmer, Dr. J. Augustine Smith. Rev. Dr. Adam Empie, and Thobias R. Dew, A. AL., the present incumbent. There were, in 1840, in the college 98 students ; in the law school 32 students.
In the beautiful square, fronting the college, stands the statue of Lord Botetourt, one of the colonial governors. It is much muti- lated, though still presenting a specimen of elegant sculpture. He appears in the court-dress of that day, with a short sword at his side. It was erected in 1774, at the expense of the colony, and removed in 1797 from the old capitol to its present situation. Its pedestal bears the following inscription :---
The Right Honorable Norborne Berkley, Baron de Botetourt, his Majesty's late Lieutenant : and Governor-General of the Colony and Dominion of Virginia. Right side .-- Deeply impressed with the warmest sense of gratitude for his Excellency's, the Right Honorable Lord Botetourt's, prudent and wise administration, and that the re- membranes of those many public and social virtues which so eminently adomed las illustrious character might be transmitted to posterity, the General Assembly of Virginia, on the xx. day of July, Ann. Dom., MDCCLXXI. resolved with one united voice to erect this statue to his Lordship's memory. Let wisdom and justice preside in any country, the people must and will be happy. Left side-America, behold your friend, who loav- ing his native country declined those additional honors which were there in store for him, that he night heal your woands and restore tranquillity and happiness to this ex- tensive continent. With what zeal and anxiety be pursued these glorious objects, Vir- ginia thus bears her grateful testimony.
Lord Botetourt was distinguished for love of piety and litera- ture. His arrival as governor of the colony, in Oct., 1768-as is shown in the subjoined extract from the Virginia Gazette of that date-was greeted with public rejoicings becoming the loyal sub- jects of his majesty :--
Last Tuesday evening arrived in Hampton Roads, in eight weeks from Portsmouth, the Rippon man-of-war, of 60 guns, Samuel Thompson, Esq., commander, having en board his Excellency, the Right Hon. NORBORNE Baron de BOTETOURT, his majesty's Lieut. and Gov .- General of this Colony and Dominion. Next morning his Excellency landed at Little England, and was saluted with a discharge of the cannon there. Afte: tarrying a few hours and taking a repast, his Excellency set out about noou for this city, where he arrived about sunset. His Excellency stopped at the Capitol, and was received at the gate by his Majesty's Council, the Hon. the Speaker, the Attorney-Gene- ral, the Treasurer, and many other gentlemen of distinction, after which, being con- ducted to the Council Chamber and having his commissions read, was qualified to exercise his high office by taking the usual oaths. His Excelieucy then swore in the members of his Majesty's Council, after which he proceeded to the Raleigh Tarern, and sapped there with his Majesty's Council. His Excellency retired about ten, and took up his lodgings at the palace, which had been put in order for his reception. Im- mediately upon his arrival the city was illuminated, and all ranks vied with each other in testifying their gratitude and joy, that a Nobleman of such distinguished merit and abilities is appointed to preside over and live among them.
In the succeeding paper the following Ode was published :-
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V IRGINIA, see, thy GOVERNOR appears ! The peaceful olive in his brow he wears ! Sound the shrill trumpets, hoat the rattling drums ; From Greut Britannia's iste his LORDSHIP comes.
Bid Echo from the waving woods arise,
And joyful acclamations reach the skies ;
Let the loud organs join their tuneful roar,
And bellowing cannons rend the pebbled shore : Bid smooth James River catch the cheerful sound, And roll it to Virginia's utmost bound ; While Rappahannock and York's gliding stream,
Swift shall convey the sweetly pleasing theme To distant plains, where pond'rous mountains rise, Whose cloud-capp'd verges meet the bending skies. The LORDLY PRIZE the Atlantic waves resign, And now, Virginia, now the BLESSING's thine:
His listening ears will to your trust attend,
And be your GUARDIAN, GOVERNOR, and FRIEND.
AIR. He comes : his EXCELLENCY comes, To cheer Virginian plains ! Fill your brisk bowls, ye loyal sons, And cing your lefticot strains. Be this your glory, this your boast,
LORD BOTETOURT'S the favorite toast ; Triumphant wreaths entwine ;
Fill full your bumpers swiftly round,
And make your spacious rooms rebound. With music, joy, and wine. RECITATIVE.
Search every garden, strip the shrubby bowers,
And strew his path with sweet autumnal flowers !
Ye virgins, haste, prepare the fragrant rose,
And with triumphant laurels crown his brows.
DUET. Enter Virgins with flowers, laurels, g.c. Sce, we've stript each flowery bed ; Here's laurels for his LORDLY HEAD ; And while Virginia is his care, May he protect the virtuous fair. AIR.
Long may he live in health and peace,
And ev'ry hour his joys increase.
To this let ev'ry swain and lass
Take the sparkling, flowing glass ;
Then join the sprightly dance, and sing,
Health to our GOVERNOR, and Gon save the KING.
VIRGINS
Health to our GOVERNOR.
BASS SOLO.
Health to our GOVERNOR.
CHORUS. . Health to our GOVERNOR, and GOD SAVE THE KING!
Facing the public square is the house-shown on the right of the annexed view-in which, a few years since. resided Pos- ident Tyler. On the square stands the Oldl Magasine, built about 120 years ago, and memorable as being the building from which Lord Dunmore, in 1775, removed the powder belonging to thu
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