Historical collections of Virginia : containing a collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c. relating to its history and antiquities ; together with geographical and statistical descriptions ; to which is appended, an historical and descriptive sketch of the District of Columbia., Part 39

Author: Howe, Henry, 1816-1893. cn
Publication date: 1856
Publisher: Charleston, S. C. : Wm. R. Babcock
Number of Pages: 1148

USA > Virginia > Historical collections of Virginia : containing a collection of the most interesting facts, traditions, biographical sketches, anecdotes, &c. relating to its history and antiquities ; together with geographical and statistical descriptions ; to which is appended, an historical and descriptive sketch of the District of Columbia. > Part 39

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of Woodford, captain Squires, with six tenders full of men, appeared in Hampton creek, and commenced an attack on the town. He imagined that the mere display of his squadron would have paralyzed the courage of the new-raised troops, and that no resist. ance would have been attempted. Under this impression, the boats, under cover of a fierce cannonado, rowed towards the shore for the purpose of setting five to the houses, and carrying off what ver property should be spored from the conflagration. A few moments disclosed the vanityei these expectations. A shower of bullets soon compelled the boats to return to the ships, while the riflemen, disposed in the houses and the bushes along the beach, proved that even the tenders were not secure against their futal preci- sion. Checked by a resistance so fierce and unexpected, the tenders hauled further into the stream, and further operations were suspended until a reinforcement, which was hourly expected, would render an assault more certain and decisive.

" Meanwhile Woodford, who had used the most extraordinary expedition, arrived at daybreak with his riflemen, and as it was certainly known that the enemy would renew the attack, a new disposition was made of the American troops. The enemy's fleet had spread themselves with the view of dividing the force of the Americans ; and though it was intended perhaps only as a diversion, it was not improbable that an attempt would be made to land troops at a considerable distance in the rear of the Americans. To guard against this, Woodford disposed the minute-men, with a part of the militia, in his rear ; the remainder of the militia was distributed at different points on the creek, to act as parties of observation, according to circumstances, while he himself took post with the riflemen in the houses, and every other low and covered position that presented itself on the beach.

" At enprise the enemy's fleet was seen standing in for the shore, and having at length reached a convenient position, they lay with springs on their cables, and commenced a furious cannonade. Double-headed and chain shot, and grape, flew in showers through all parts of the tour ; and as the position of the ships enabled them to enfilade, it was thought impossible to defend it, even for a few minutes. Nothing could exceed the cool and steady valor of the Virginians ; and although, with very few exceptions, wholly unacquainted with military service, they di-played the countenance and collection of veterans. Woodford's commands to his riflemen, previous to the cannonade, were sini- ply to Bre with coolness and decision. and observe the profoundest silence. The effects of this advies were soon visible ; the riflemen answered the cannonade by a well-directed fire against every part of the line, and it soon appeared that no part of the ship was secure against their astonishing precision. In a short time the enemy appeared to be in some confusion ; their cannonade gradually slackened, and a signal was given by the commander to slip their cables and retire. But even this was attended with the most imminent danger. No man could stand at the helin in safety ; if the mnen went aloft to hand the sails, they were immediately singled out. In this condition two of the schooners drifted to the shore. The commander of one of these in vain called on his men to assist in keeping her off; they had all retired to the hold, and declared theif utter refusal to expose themselves to inevitable destruction. In this exigency, deserted by bis men, he jumped into the water and escaped to the opposite shore. The rest of the fleet had been fortunate enough to escape, although with some difficulty, and returned to Norfolk."*

After the British fleet were defeated in their attempt upon Nor- folk, in June, 1813, by the gallant defence of Craney Island, they proceeded to attack Hampton, which was defended by a garrison of 450 militia, protected by some slight fortifications. The annexed account of this event is from Perkins' History of the Late War :

Admiral Cockburn, on the 25th of June, with his forces, advanced towards the town in barges and small vessels, throwing shells and rockets, while Su Sidney Beckwith effected a landing below with two thousand men. Cockburn's party were repulsed by the garrison, and driven back behind a point, until General Beckwith's troops advanced and compelled the garrison to retire. The town being now completely in the possession of the British, was given up to pillage. Many of the inhabitants had fled with their valuable effects ; those who remained suffered the most shameful barbarities. That renegade corps, composed of French prisoners accustomed to plunder and murder in Spain, and who had been induced to enter the British servier by promises of similar indulgence in America, were now to be gratified, and were let loose upon the wretched inhabitants of Hampton without restraint. For two days the town was given up to

* The inhabitants had sunk five sloops before the town

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unrestrained pillage ; private property was plundered and wantonly destroyed ; unarmed and unoffending individuals grossly abused ; females violated ; and, in one instance, an aged sick man murdered in the arms of his wife, who, at the same time, was danger- ously wounded. A collection of well-attested facts, made by a committee of Congress respecting the outrages at Hampton, stand on their journals as lasting monuments of disgrace to the British nation.

Hampton has been the birth-place of several distinguished naval officers. Among them were the two Barrons,* of the Virginia navy, who performed several gallant exploits in the revolution. The grandfather of Com. Lewis Warrington, who, in 1814, while in command of the Peacock, captured the Epervier, was pastor of the old Episcopal church in this town. Major Finn, of the arny, was from this place. Capt. Meredith and Capt. William Cunning- ham, of the Virginia navy in the revolution, were also born at Hampton. The first was a remarkably bold and enterprising offi- cer, and on one moonlight night ventured to sail out to sea in a small vessel, passing through a British fleet anchored in Hampton Roads. The following notice of the latter is abridged from the U. S. Military and Naval Magazine :

At the beginning of the war of the revolution, Capt. Cunningham enlisted in one of the minute companies, and continued in that service until Virginia armed a few fast .. sailing pilot-boat schooners. Thus was the navy of that state commenced. It, however, varied materially ; sometimes amounting to as many as 50 vessels, and occasionally to only one. Among them was the schooner Liberty, which was never captured, although several times sunk in the rivers to conceal her from the enemy. Capt. Cunningham embarked and remained in the Liberty, as her first lieutenant, until the war assumed a more regular form. Capt. Cunningham purchased a small schooner, and engaged in traffic to the West Indies. Sea-officers were encouraged to engage in commerce as the , only means of procuring the munitions of war.

On these occasions, he encountered great risk from the enemy's fleets. Once, in the mouth of June, he suddenly came upon an English frigate, off Cape Henry, in a dense fog. The English commander ordered him to strike his colors, and haul down his light sails, or he would sink him. By a judicious and skilful stratagem, he made the enemy believe that he intended to surrender. He, therefore, suspended his threatened firing. At the moment they discovered that Cunningham intended to escape, the jib-boom of the frigate caught in the topping-lift of the schooner's main-boom. Capt. C. sprang up to the stern, with a koife, to free his vessel. While in the act of cutting the rope, a British marine shot him through the arm. Nothing daunted, he deliberately effected his object, and amid a chower of grave, his vessel shot away from the frigate, and was in u few moments out of sight.

Some time after, Capt. Cunningham joined the army on the south side of James River, and had the misfortune, while on a foraging expedition, to be taken by the enemy and carried into Portsmouth. He had then been recently married.

One day he said to an undle of his, (also a prisoner .: that he would see his wife the next evening, or perish in the attempt. " My dear Will, are you mnad ?"' was the reply.

The prison in which he was confined was a large sugar house, at the extreme south end of the town, enclosed by a strong stockade fence. At sunset every evening, the guard, composed of 40 or 50 men, were relieved by fresh troops, and on their arrival, the two guards, with their officers, were paraded in front of the prison, on each side of the path- way to the gate. At this hour, the ceremony observed on the occasion was in progress ; the relieved guard had stacked their areis, and were looking up their baggage; the fresh guard were relieving sentinels, and. in a degree, at their ease. This was the time selected by Capt. G. The sentinel had just begun to pace his sacred ground, and awful, indeed, was the moment. Capt. C. was justly a great favorite with the prisoners, who all, it si ent terror, expected to see their beloved companion pinned to the ca th by many bay - onets, for expostulation had been exhausted. " My wife, or death !"' was his watchword "The sentirla motions had been sagaciousy calculated upon, and as he turned from

* One of these was the father of the present Com. James Barron, of the U. S Navy.

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the prison, Capt. C. darted out, and butted him over at his full length, and ran past him through the gate. It was now nearly dark. . All was uproar and confusion. Cunning. ham soon reached a marsh near the house, and was nowhere to be found. Volley after volley was fred after him, and some of the balls whistled over his head. Ere long ha arrived at the southern branch of Elizabeth River, which he swam over a little below the navy-vard at Gosport, and finally reached the place whither his wife had fled.

Lieut. Church, who had served as Capt. C.'s first, was determined that his commander should not alone encounter the danger of an escape. He, therefore, followed han ; and strange as it may appear, he was never heard of, or accounted for.

Old Point Comfort, on which stands fortress Monroe, is 23 miles from Hampton, and about 12 in a direct line from Norfolk. It is a promontory, exactly on lat. 370, and with the opposing point, Wil- loughby, forms the mouth of James River.

The name was given to it in 1607 by the first colonists of Virginia, who, on their exploratory voyage up the James, previous to landing at Jamestown, called it Point Comfort " on account of the good channel and safe anchorage it afforded." The prefix of " Old," was afterwards given to distinguish it from " New Point Comfort."

A fort was built on the Point a few years after the first settlement of the country. The following act for its erection was passed in March, 1629-30. " Matter of fortitica- tions was againe taken into consideration, and C'apt. Samuel Mathewes was content to undertake the raysing of a ffort at Poyut Comfort ; whereupon, Capt. Robert Ffelgate, Capt. Thomas Parfum, Capt. Thomas Chans, Sept. Join Cry, Capt. In. wody. M. Tho. Heyrick, and Len't. Win. Perry, by full consent of the whole Assembly, were chosen to view the place, conclude what manner of fforte shall bee erected, and to compounde and agree with the said Capt. Mathewes for the building, raysing, and finishing the same," &c.

Count de Grasse, the admiral of the French fleet, threw up some fortifications on old Point Comfort a short time previous to the surrender at York.

The salutary experience, dearly bought in the lessons of the late war, when these waters were the resort of British fleets, has doubtless had much influence in prompting the erection of the fortresses of Monroe and Calhoun. The first is one of the largest single fortifica- tions in the world, and is generally garrisoned by a regiment of U. S. troops. The channel leading in from the Capes of Virginia to Hampton Roads, is at Old Point Com- fort reduced to a very narrow line. The shoal water, which under the action of the sea, and reacied upon by the bar, is kopt up in an unremitting ripple, has given the name of Rip Raps to this place. When the bar is passed, Hampton Roads atfords one of the finest anchorages, in which navies could ride in safety. Fort Calhoun, or the castle of the Rip Raps, is directly opposite fort Monroe, at the distance of 1900 yards. The two forts are so constructed as to present immense batteries of cannon at an approaching hostile ship ; and the probabilities are, that long before she had com- pleted the bondings of the channel, she would be a wreck, or a conflagration from the hot shot thrown into her. The Rip Rops structure is a monument of the genius of the engineers by whom it was planned. It is formed upon an island, made from the sea by casting in rocks in a depth of 20 feet of water, until, by gradual accumulation, it emerged above the tides. The present aspect of the place is rough and savage ; the music of the surrounding elements of air and sea, is in keeping with the dreariness and desolation of the spot.

The beach at Old Point, affords excellent bathing-ground ; this, with a fine hotel, and other attractions, make the place much resorted to in the summer months. The officers' quarters occupy several neat buildings within the area of the fort, where there is a fine level parade-ground, ornamented by clumps of live-oak, which is the most northern point in the Union in which that tree is found,

GEORGE WYTHE, a signer of the Declaration of Independence. was born in this county in 1796. " His education was principally directed by his mother. The death of both his parents before he became of age, and the uncontrolled possession of a large for- tune, led him for some time into a course of amusement and dissi- pation. At the age of thirty, however, his conduct underwent an

View of the Harbor of NORFOLK and PORTSMOUTH, from Port Norfolk.

Fort Monroe is seen in front, on OLD POINT COMFORT, and in the distance, Fort Calhoun, at the Rip Rapa.

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ESSEX COUNTY.

entire change. He applied himself vigorously to the study of the law ; and soon after his admission to the bar, his learning, indas. try, and eloquence, made him eminent. Por several years previous to the revolution, he was conspicuous in the House of Burgesses ; and in the commencement of the opposition to England, evinced an ardent attachment to liberty. In 1761, he drew up a remon- strance to the House of Commons, in a tone of independence tou decided for that period, and which was greatly modified by the Assembly before assenting to it. In 1775, he was appointed- a delegate to the Continental Congress in Philadelphia. In the fol- lowing year he was appointed, in connection with Mr. Jefferson and others, to revise the laws of Virginia-a duty which was per- formed with great ability. In 1727, he was appointed Speaker of the House of Delegates, and during the same year judge of the high court of chancery. On a new organization of' the court of equity, in the subsequent year, he was appointed solo chancellor --- a station which he filled for more than twenty years. In 1787, he was a member of the convention which formed the federal con- stitution, and during the debates acted, for the most part, as chair. man. He was a strenuous advocate of the instrument adopted He subsequently presided twice, successively, in the college of electors in Virginia, His death occurred on the 8th of June, 1806. in the S1st year of his age. It was supposed that he was poisoned ; but the person suspected was acquitted by a jury. In learning, industry, and judgment, Chancellor Wythe had few superiors. Huis integrity was never stained, even by a suspicion ; and from the moment of bis abandonment of the follies of his youth, his repu- tation was unspotted. The kindness and benevolence of his heart were commensurate with the strength and attainments of bis . mind."

ESSEX.

Essex was formed in 1692, from a part of (old) Rappahannock county. It lies on the s. side of the Rappahannock, about 30 miles NE. of Richmond. Its length is 28 miles ; mean breadth 10 miles. In the western part it is slightly hilly, and its soil, except on the margin of the streams, generally sandy. The county, however, produces large crops of corn, considerable wheat and oats, and some cotton and tobarco. Pop. in 1840, whites 3,955, staves 6,756, free colored 598 ; total, 11,309.

Tappahannoc, port of entry and seat of justice for the county, lies on the Rappahannock, 50 miles from its mouth in Chesapeake Bay, and contains about 30 dwellings. It has a good harbor, and all the shipping belonging fo the towny on the river is entered at the custom-house in this place; tonnage in 1810, 1,591. [> retto is a small village one mile from the Rappahannock. fu the NE. part of the county.

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FAIRFAX COUNTY.

FAIRFAX.

FAIRrx was formed in 1742, from Prince William, and named after Lord Fairfax, the proprietor of " the Northern Neck." The part of Virginia included in the District of Columbia was formed from Fairfax. The county is watered by the Potomac and the Occoguan, and their branches. Pop., whites 5,469, slaves 3,453, free colored 448; total, 9,370,

Fairfax Court House is near the centre of the county, 21 miles from Washington City ; it contains the county buildings. and about 200 inhabitants. Centerville is a village of about the same popu- Ration, on a high and healthy situation near the southwestera anglo of the county.

. Much of the land of this county, and, indeed, of the whole of the tide-water country of Virginia, is flat and sandy. Some paris. it is true, are very fertile and produce large crops; but these are so intermixed with extensive tracts of waste land, worn out by the excessive culture of tobacco, and which are almost destitute of verdure, that the country has frequently the aspect of barrenness. A ruinous system has prevailed to a great extent, of working the same piece of land year after year until it was exhausted, when new land was cleared, in its turn to be cultivated a few seasons and then abandoned. In some parts of the country the lands thus left waste throw up a spontaneous growth of low pines and cedars, whose sombre aspect, with the sterility of the soil. oppresses the traveller with feelings of gloom. However, land thus shaded from the rays of the sun, recovers in time its former fertility.

Several years since, some of the enterprising farmers of German origin from Dutchess county, New York, commenced emigrating to this county and purchased considerable tracts of worn-out land, which they have, in many instances, succeeded in restoring to their original fertility. Good land can be bought for $8 or $10 per acre ; tolerable fair for about $3; which, in a few years, can be brought up with clover and plaster. Some of the finest farms in New York are upon lands, which, a few years ago, were sand, blowing about in the wind. The worn-out Virginian lands are not so bad as this, and, with a fine climate, are as easily restored. The success thus far attending the experiment is encouraging. and emigration still continues. These farmers make this movement better than going west, for they are sure of a good market, without the whole value of their produce being exhausted by the expense of transportation. Slave-labor is not employed in resuscitating land; the farmers work themselves, with their sons and hired men

The following extracts are from Davis's Four and a Half Years In America, published in 1803. Davis was a school-teacher in the section of country which he describes. His work is dedicated, by permission, to Jefferson :-

------

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FAIRFAX COUNTY.

I prosecuted my walk to Newgate, where, on the piazza of Mr. Thornton's tavern, I. found a party of gentlemen from the neighboring plantations carousing over a bowl of toddy, and smoking cigars. No people could exceed these men in politeness. On my ascending the steps to the piazza, every countenance seemed to say, This man has a double claim to our attention, for he is a stranger in the place. In a moment there was room made for me to sit down ; a new bowl was called for, and every one who addressed me did it with a smile of conciliation. But no man asked me where I had come fron% or whither I was going. A gentleman in every country is the same ; and, if good breed- ing consists in sentiment, it was found in the circle I had got into.

The higher Virginians seem to venerate themselves as men ; and I am persuaded there was not one in company who would have felt embarrassed at being admitted to the press ence and conversation of the greatest monarch on earth. There is a compound of vir- tue and vice in every human character ; no man was ever yet faultless; but whatever may be advanced against Virginians, their good qualities will ever outweigh their de. fects ; and when the effervescence of youth has abated, when reason asserts her em- pire, there is no man on earth who discovers more exalted sentiments, more contempt of baseness, more love of justice, more sensibility of feeling, than a Virginian.

No walk could be more delightful than that from Occoquan to Colchester, when the moon was above the mountains. You traverse the bank of a placid stream, over which impend rocks. in some places bare, but more frequently covered with an odoriferous plant that regales the traveller with its fragrance. So serpentine is the course of the river, that the mountains which rise from its bank may be said to form an amphitheatre ; and nature scoms to have designed the spot for the haunt only of fairies, for here grow flowers of purple dye, and here the snake throws her enamelled skin. But into what regions, however apparently inaccessible, has not adventurone man monstrated? "The awful repose of the night is disturbed by the clack of two huge mills, which drown the echoes of the meking-bird, who nightly tells his sorrows to the listening moon.

Art is pouring fast into the lap of nature the luxuries of exotic refinement. After clambering over mountains, almost inaccessible to human toil; yon come to the junction of the Ocenquan with the noble river of the Potomac, and behold a bridge, whose semi- elliptical arches are scarcely inferior to those of princely London. And on the side of this bridge stands a tavern, where every luxury that money can purchase is to be oho dained at first summons ; where the richest viands cover the table, and where ice cools the Madeira that has been thrice across the ocean. *

* Having slept one night * at this tavern, I rose with the sun and journeyed leisurely to the mills, catching refresh- ment from a light air that stirred the leaves of the trees. About eight miles from tha Occoquan mills is a house of worship, called Powheek church ; a name it claims from a ron that flows near its walls. Hither I rode on Sundays and joined the congregation of parson Weems, a minister of the Episcopal persuasion, who was cheerful in his mien, that he might win men to religion. A Virginian church-yard, on a Sunday, resembles rather a race-course thau a sepulchral ground ; the ladies come to it in carriages, and the den after diemounting from their horses make them fast to the trees. But the steepke to the Virginian churches were designed not for utility but ornament ; for the bell is always suspended to a tree a few yards from the church. It is also observable, that the gate to the church-yard is ever carefully locked by the sexton, who retires last. * * * Wonder and ignorance are ever reciprocal. I was confounded, on first entering the church-yard at Powleak, to hear

Steed threaten steed with high and boastful neigh.

Nor was I less stunned with the rattling of carriage-wheels. the cracking of whips, and the vociferations of the gentlemen to the negroes who accompanied them. But the dis- course of parson Weems calmed every perturbation ; for he preached the great doc- trines of salvation, as one who had experienced their power. *

* In his youth Mr. Weents arguspanied some young Americans to London, where he prepared him- self by diligent study for the profession of the church. * * * Of the congregation at Powheel church, about one half was composed of white people, and the other of ue- groes.' Among monny of the negroes were to be discovered the most satisfying evi. dences of sincara piety, an ardess simplicity, passionate aspirations after Christ, and an earnout endeavor to know and do the will of God.

The church described in the foregoing sketch is still standing and an object of interest from having been the one Washington regularly attended for a long series of years while resident at

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FAIRFAX COUNTY.

Mount Vernon, distant some 6 or 7 miles. The particular location of the church is ascribed to him. At a very early age he was an active member of the vesiry ; and when its location was under consideration and dispute, surveyed and made a map of the whole parish, and showed where it ought to be erected. The Rt. Re .. Wm. Meade, Bishop of Va., in an official tour taken three or four years since, thus describes its appearance as it was at that time ; since which it has been repaired :

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Author: Howe, Henry, 1816-1893. cn Publication date: 1856 Publisher: Charleston, S. C. : Wm. R. Babcock Number of Pages: 1148

Author: Howe, Henry, 1816-1893. cn
Publication date: 1856
Publisher: Charleston, S. C. : Wm. R. Babcock
Number of Pages: 1148