History of northern Wisconsin, containing an account of its settlement, growth, development, and resources; an extensive sketch of its counties, cities, towns and villages, their improvements, industries, manufactories; biographical sketches, portraits of prominent men and early settlers; views of county seats, etc., Part 134

Author: Western historical co., Chicago, pub
Publication date: 1881
Publisher: Chicago, Western historical company
Number of Pages: 1052

USA > Wisconsin > History of northern Wisconsin, containing an account of its settlement, growth, development, and resources; an extensive sketch of its counties, cities, towns and villages, their improvements, industries, manufactories; biographical sketches, portraits of prominent men and early settlers; views of county seats, etc. > Part 134

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* Now, Mr. Henry Coons, of Potosi, is right about the cross, as I have a most vivid recollection of it, and of its exact location."

If set up as suggested by Mr. Coons, about the time Prairie du Chien was named, that would decide its erection to have been during the year 1728, when one Cardewell settled there.

When the name was given, as already hinted, is a matter of conjecture, though it is believed to have been named from a chief, and was known as " Dog Prairie," the word chien being the Indian signification for dog. It is incredible a cross would have been left undis- turbed so long, in view of the fact that steamers and hands on other craft betrayed no conscientious scru-

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HISTORY OF NORTHERN WISCONSIN.

ples in helping themselves to fuel of any description that could be found along the banks. The tradition may have originated among the friends, a son of De- cora, who died in 1842, having placed a cross over his grave, which remained undisturbed for eight or ten years.

The similarity of the name to the French word for cross, i. e., croix, will not bear investigation, especially in view of the fact that the name was used by the French in naming the river St. Croix, the junction of which with the Mississippi is said to bear a striking resemblance, on a near view, to that sacred emblem. Two other theories, one of the supposed but very im- aginative likeness of a cross made by the Root River on the south and La Crosse River on the north, and that this spot was the favorite crossing place of the Indians ; hence the place of the cross or crossing seems too puerile to be worthy of more than passing notice.

Before quoting the final and most probable theory, it may not be improper to notice several of the Indian names applied during aboriginal days. None of them, with possibly one or two exceptions, are especially felicitous ; but derived from nature or their likeness thereto, are suggestive of the scenery, for the beauty of which the vicinity of La Crosse is not altogether un- known.

The first of these was that of enook-wagera, from enook, woman, and wagera, bosom, from the supposed resemblance of two bluffs near the mouth of the La Crosse River to a woman's breast. One of the Sioux names was Topaktaype, from Topa, four, and Ktaype, killed. The occasion for this is not known to the gen- tleman who communicates it, N. Myrick, Esq., but that it refers to the slaughter of four men or animals is evi- dent. Another name given by the Sioux, according to Dr. Bunnel, was Wazuvleca, or strawberry prairie. All the above are expressive, commemorative, and the last musical in its softness, as also most expressive in its meaning.

It is to be deeply regretted that the great wealth and beauty of innumerable Indian names was not more largely drawn upon in the titling of towns, villages and hamlets. It would have been a just and fitting, albeit a small recompense, to have perpetuated the memory of the original inhabitants.

Coming now to the facts in the case, it may be stated that La Crosse was the name by which it was known as early as 1805, during which year Maj. Z. M. P. Pike arrived, at which he calls Prairie de la Crosse. In 1823, Lieut. Martin Scott and command, in a journey to the St. Peter's River, halted there, and spoke of the prairie as "being very level, is admirably well calcu- lated for the game of la crosse, which is very much in favor with the Indians."

Maj. Pike speaks of having witnessed the game at Prairie du Chien nearly twenty years before. It was doubtless played here at as early and, in likelihood, at a much earlier date, as this was a noted and favorite resort for games from time immemorial. This is the uniform testimony of all the earlier settlers, who also bear witness that it was also that of the Indians.

The etymology and signification of the name is of itself quite sufficent to convince any one of the great probability of this derivation of the name. In a note

on page 189, Volume 2, " Historical Collections of Wis- consin," it is expressly stated that the name originated from the French name of the game of ball played by the Indians at this point, viz., le jeu de crosse. A com- bination of the first and last syllables gives the modern- ized name.

N. Myrick, who was made the first Postmaster in 1844, thus speaks of his connection with the name : " The name of Prairie de la Crosse was, of course, French, and was changed by myself to La Crosse, and the post-office so called at my suggestion." What is said of the last name should be conclusive ; but, as some strenuously contend for the other theories, it is thought best to submit a presentation of the subject in full.

THE GAME OF LA CROSSE.

The earliest notice of this game as played by the Indians of Wisconsin, is probably that of Capt. Car- ver, who visited the State in 1766, and may be found on page 364 of his book entitled "North America," and is as follows :

They amuse themselves at several sorts of games, but the principal and most esteemed among them is that of the ball, which is not unlike the European game of tennis. The balls they use are rather larger than those made use of at tennis, and are formed of a piece of deerskin, which being moistened to render it supple, is stuffed hard with the hair of the same creature, and sewed with its sinews. The ball-sticks are about three feet long, at the end of which there is a kind of racket, resembling the palm of the hand, and fashioned of thongs cut from a deer skin, in these they catch the ball, and throw it to a great distance, if they are not prevented by some of the opposite party, who fly to intercept it. This game is generally played by large companies, that sometimes consist of more than three hundred and it is not uncommon for different bands to play against each other.

They begin by fixing two poles in the ground at about six hundred yards apart, and one of these goals belongs to each party of the combat- ants. The ball is thrown up high in the center of the ground, and in a directed line between the goals, toward which each party endeavors to strike it, and whichever side causes it to reach their own goal, reckons toward the game. They are so exceeding dextrous in this manly exer- cise, that the ball is usually kept flying in different directions by the force of the rackets, without touching the ground during the whole con- tention, for they are not allowed to catch it with their hands. They run with amazing velocity in pursuit of each other, and when one is on the point of hurling it a great distance, an antagonist overtakes him, and by a sudden stroke dashes down the ball. They play with so much vehemence that they frequently wound each other, and sometimes a bone is broken ; but notwithstanding these accidents, there never appears to be any spite or wanton exertions of strength to effect them, nor do any disputes ever happen between the parties.

BEGINNING OF SETTLEMENT.

The first settlements, perfected by permanent oecu- pation in La Crosse County were not undertaken, it is believed, prior to 1840, though Mr. H. B. Coons, of Potosi, Grant County, avers his father was a resident of subsequent La Crosse as early as 1836. There may have been visitors into the present county before 1840. but if so, they were made up of transients and adven- turers to whom no place was home, and the pressing experiences of the hour, the uncertain lines wherein their lives were cast.

Settlements had grown up in the regions adjoining La Crosse at a date anterior to that mentioned herein, notably at Prairie du Chien, and other points which afterward became sources of supplies to pioneer hus- bandmen and miners, who in those early days ran the gauntlet of the mining district. Indeed it would seem strange, but is nevertheless true, that the settlement of La Crosse was procrastinated beyond that of other points possessing no more fruitful sources of wealth nor

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HISTORY OF LA CROSSE COUNTY.

advantages for settlers. Roving traders and agents of fur companies who operated throughout the Northwest could hardly have overlooked the value of sites since fringed with flourishing cities and villages that have been built up and have become the residences of intel- ligence, enterprise and wealth. They may have come into the wilderness annually, and, remaining long enough to exchange their commodities for furs, return to their abiding-places without leaving any trace of their aboriginal existence to guide the historian in his pursuit of facts. But thus far, no records of such oc- cupation have been discovered, and the only positive evidence of settlements available after decades have elapsed is to be found in the statements of those to whom, with but one exception, the award is made by universal acclamation. In this connection the surprise is expressed that among those who came during the first years of the building up of La Crosse, some one of them has not put in permanent and enduring form, a reliable record of events as they transpired here in those days. Possessing leisure which they have justly won, literary tastes and devoted attachments to the city to whose growth and prosperity they have so liber- ally contributed, familiar with its early history, rapidly passing into tradition, it is truly strange that they have not perpetuated the material in historic form, which they can successfully command.

At the date when the first settlement of La Crosse was ventured, the present county was almost an unin- habited wilderness, possessing, as would seem from the presumed refusal of traders and strollers to remain within its limits, but few attractions, and those few of the most limited character. The nearest towns were Prairie du Chien, Dubuque and Galena, at that time landings of some importance, but struggling for exist- ence, though comparatively of the importance as St. Louis subsequently assumed. The population of Chi- cago was then less than 5,000, while Milwaukee was yet in its infancy, and neither gave very promising in- dications from location or immigration tending thither- ward of what was reserved for the future to disclose. There was little then as compared with the present be- tween the flourishing cities of the East and the im- promptu municipal weaklings in the Great West which has since reflected back the star of empire. The con- fines of civilization were then limited to the towns and settlements contiguous to the lakes on the west, and he who struck out for a home in the Territories was re- garded as an adventurous soldier of fortune whose re- turn was a question of chance rather than probability.

This, then, was the condition of affairs as they ex- isted forty years ago, according to sources of informa- tion in that behalf, presumably correct. There was little to attract save the intrinsic merit of the location and surroundings, which combined with the hopes of a future, were sufficient to direct the residents of South- ern and Eastern States to Wisconsin Territory. To those at home who were independent, the country fur- nished inducements that would enable men of means to add to their accumulations. To the imprudent or impoverished, pulling with steady stroke against the current of an adversity, both pitiless and uncompromis- ing, a hope for better days. To the speculator it af- forded a field of operations incalculably valuable; to

the scientist an opportunity for discovery; to the scholar, the Christian and the husbandman, the occa- sion for labors that have since returned to bless their inventors.

As a consequent, the class of people who established themselves in La Crosse County, and have since been identified with its growth and the development of its wealth, were men of rare excellence. Earnest, frank and kind, they made all men friends by being the friends of all men. Illustrating by example rather than pre- cept, they bridged the brief interval between purity and sin by the power of kindness, and looked with eyes of charity upon the mistakes and failings of their fel- lows. Brave but tender, they were, in short, the most generous of men who have ever left " the shore touched by a mysterious sea that has never yet borne on any man the image of a homeward sail," their deficiencies made up by the Recording angel, from the love they bore humanity.

And so, too, the pioneer women, those who braved the absence of home, friends and congenial associations to accompany their fathers, husbands and sons into the trackless waste of the Northwest, and contemplated the present as also the future, the horizon of which was darkened by discouragement and gloom. And yet they faltered not, but sustained their husbands by a trust in the outlook that was constant, and bore an abundant harvest. As wives, they were the most agreeable of companions ; as friends, the most faithful and affectionate ; as mothers, gentle as children ever had the misfortune to lose, who corrected the most per- nicious of evils by the most tender management. Pru- dent from affection, though most liberal of nature, they practiced economy from the love they bore their hus- bands, and at critical periods, preserved order in affairs from the care of which those husbands were relieved ; she reclaimed her choice from despair, urged his indo- lence to exertion, and constantly admonished him to industry, integrity and manhood.

In thet accounts furnished regarding the first settle- ment of ehe county, it is found that the principal events have evr kept pace with the rapid improvements of the age. The site of the city seems to have been a resort for the Indians from time immemorial, and this is said to have induced French traders to meet them there at an early day for the purpose of trade. Who they were, where they obtained supplies, and other factors of importance regarding their occupation of the present county, either permanently or as transients, are wanting, and the conclusion seems irresistible to an unprejudiced juror of the facts, that the statements sprang from the fertile soil of romance.

In the examinations made with a view to definitely determine the facts regarding the first settlement of La Crosse, the seeker after knowledge has been made the trustee of information in that behalf both cumu- lative and persuasive. Mr. H. B. Coons claims the distinguished honor for his father, whom he alleges settled in La Crosse in 1836, while Col. L. Myrick is equally positive that Mr. Coons is in error, notwith- standing his statements are in part supported by public documents, and that he was the first white man to es- tablish a permanent occupation of the county. The weight of authorities, it is but proper to observe, indi-

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cate Mr. Myrick as the gentleman to whom this dignity properly belongs ; Morrison MeMillan, in his history of the early settlement of La Crosse and Monroe counties, makes the award to Mr. Myrick. He states that no trading-post was established in the vicinity of La Crosse prior to 1840, at which time a man named La Batt or La Bathe opened a store one mile below the present city, but did not remain long.

Mr. Coons insists that his father and Mr. Cabbage opened a trading-post in 1836, within the limits of the present city, which was destroyed by the Indians in 1837. It was rebuilt, but again burned, and in 1838 Messrs. Coons & Cubbage made a claim for damages thus sustained, which was allowed and deducted from the annuities due the Indians. The Interior Depart- ment at Washington furnishes proof that the claim was made, but casts a doubt upon the allegation that the same was paid. From this it would appear that the averment made by Mr. Coons, in behalf of his parents, is entitled to considerable weight. A pro- longed correspondence resulted from this claim. Among the pioneers of the county still living, the opinion ob- tains that Mr. Myrick was the first settler to locate permanently on the present city site, and that Coons possibly located on the island opposite.

MINING SETTLEMENTS AND MILITARY POSTS.

The first settlements of Michigan Territory, as is known, were made at a comparatively early day by miners, who radiated from more thickly settled sections, attracted by the reports of rich discoveries of mineral, and this, too, notwithstanding the enforcement of rules and regulations formulated by mine Superintendents, and the danger to be apprehended from attacks by Indians. Neither of these embargoes delayed the settlement of La Crosse County at an earlier day, as the absence of mineral, a source of attraction else- where, failed to woo the coming of venturesome delvers in mother earth, for the springs of revenue, which in other portions of Wisconsin had been tapped, and bounteous streams gushed forth.

One reason quoted for the comparative delay in ef- fecting a lodgment of settlers about La Crosse at an earlier day than during the forties, was the fact that the Eastern States, whence a large immigration subse- quently proceeded, had not become over-crowded, and space by no means so contracted. Another cause of delay is attributed to the further fact that the countries of Europe, which now furnish so large a proportion of the population of the more Western States and Territo- ries, had not at that time become familiar with the advan- tages to be found here, and preferring to suffer the ills to which they had been subjected for generations, rather than to encounter others of which they were ignorant, their coming hither was delayed until a time when neces- sity or inclination, prompted by the glowing accounts of life in the New World, led them to embark their hopes on a tide, which as the sequel in many instances lias proved, led on to glory and to fortune.

Military posts were for years the only habitations to be found on the frontiers, save the wigwams of the savage, and the only inhabitants the soldiers and offi- eers who fraternized with the foe or aided in the efforts employed to accomplish their departure before the

advance of a progressive civilization. Wars were car- ried on as is known from the pages of history ; settlers were slain or driven off. and the effects of the Indian occupation were not entirely obliterated for years it might be said after the dusky warrior resigned the con- test and ceded to the whites possession of the territory for which he had so valorously yet fruitlessly contended. When Mr. Myrick came into the country forty years ago, the Indian was still in the field, equally as treach- erous, equally as uncivilized, and fully as savage as during the days when he ran wild in the sunshine. unrestrained by law or the force of arms. The dignity of character which romancers and poets are wont to ascribe to the red man, was nowhere visible, and his capacity for evil was only measured by his opportunities. He absorbed the vices of the whites, without seeking to emulate any of the virtues recorded of the most un- conscionable in the book of life, and taken all in all was by no means a desirable quantity in the body poli- tic, where law and order prevail, and where men are measured by their excellencies and not by the absence of them. A fragment of these aboriginal occupants are yet to be seen at occasional intervals in the cities of the Far West, but bear no impress of the position Fiction, rather than fact, has allotted them in the annals of the past. Indeed, it might be said without trespass- ing upon the domain of exaggeration or prejudice, that they are the most heterodox samples of departed greatness to be seen without the pale of barbaric domination-living testimonials of moral and intel- lectual deformity and a standing rebuke to the caste of citizens, rapidly becoming extinet, whose felicity in life is augmented in proportion as they can trace their pedigree to the daughter of Powhattan. Their shadow is assimilating with nonenity, so to speak, diminishing in a manner that, in view of the facts of the case, must not be other than gratifying. Many an old settler in the mellow evening of life lives to witness a fruition of hopes of earlier years in the rapid progress of the city and State, had not been spared if his lease of life forty years ago, was contingent upon the human- ity of the Indian who greeted his advent here with threats and demands for fire-water.

But he has survived the trials and dangers which attended his coming into the undiscovered land, that to-day teems with the fruit of labors he was instru- mental in directing hither, conserved and facilitated through the system of education, he was the medium of establishing. The visitor to the country compre- hended within the present limits of LaCrosse County as he bowls over the avenues that intersect one another in all directions, or gazes upon the fields of ripened grain ready for the sickle, or views the evidences of thrift, skill, enterprise and accreting capital, which greets his vision whithersover he may turn, in city and county, must not be unmindful of the labors and the industry which have been utilized to these results. Where once the savage dwelt secure in the fastnesses of the wilderness, churches and schools have been raised up, bringing the fullest fruition of their objects to the county and to the founders of these agencies for the amelioration and improvement of the race of which they were so promi- nent and disinterested constituents. To these leading spirits who revived discouraged hearts, and checked

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fading hopes born of disappointments and apprehen- sions that were by no means retired figures in the days that passed away a third of a century ago, is the present condition of affairs wholly due. Long may they sur- vive and see the perfect realization of works, the foun- dations of which were laid when the heart of man was almost appalled by the unpromising outlook. A region inhabited by savages, jealous, revengeful and degraded. The nearest place at which supplies could be obtained, or social amenities cultivated, distant a journey of several days. In health it must have been cheerless, in sickness simply desolating.

NATHAN MYRICK'S ARRIVAL.

This was the condition of affairs when Nathan Myr- ick, the pioneer settler of La Crosse County, landed op- posite tlie foot of Main street, in the present city, on the afternoon of November 9, 1841. The scene was by no means encouraging to the enterprising visitor, who had, before attaining his majority, settled in the West, and, after serving an apprenticeship to B. W. Brisbois, a fur trader at Prairie du Chien, extended his field of observations, and decided to locate at La Crosse. He was confident of the future ; no doubt entered his mind of what the harvest would be, yet in spite of his hopes and ambitions, and determinations to realize from substantial foundations, there was little to en- courage in the appearance of affairs for the time being. The season of the year, with its solemn, gloomy, mel- ancholy days, the landscape that but a brief period be- fore had rejoiced in an exuberance of flowers and foli- age, was now drooping, dying, epitomizing, as it were, the closing scenes in a year that was cycling into the irrevocable past. Mr. Myrick, without companionship, save the presence of Horatio Curtis, Eben Wells, and a man named Reed, who accompanied him, and, while there was much to inspire him to acts, there was much to persuade him to retire whence he came, and identi- fy his fortune with that of the friends and associates nearer the confines of civilization."

The prompter's bell has rung down the curtain of forty years since that day, in the life of Nathan Myr- ick. He has lived to see the prairies and bluffs blos- som as a rose ; to see the narrow Indian trails yield precedence to roads made by the hand of man, to lines of travel connecting with the East and West through the darkness of the night ; to see a city created over the ruins of the Indian wigwams, and the mighty river overcome and bridged from shore to shore. The places he knew in those days primeval, have passed into obscurity, and their trials become as a tale that is told. The lives of men to-day are as holidays com- pared with those of men who were identified with its development and cultivation. Life in those days must have been attended with unlimited hardships and pri- vations without the possession of a compensating num- ber of blessings and privileges. The mighty achieve- ments that have since been made, are the result of small beginnings, supplemented by constant industry, daring enterprise and untiring energy. The waste places have been made to yield abundant harvests, vil- lages and cities have arisen as if by magic, and civiliza- tion and the arts "soar Phoenix-like to Jove." The marts of trade and traffic, and the work-shops of the

artisan are thronged ; a common school system increas- ing in value and influence with each succeeding year, has been established, and children of the rich and poor press forward, eager to participate in the benefits there- by afforded. Churches have been built, and a Chris- tian ministry ordained for a cultivation of a religious life, the promotion of piety, the inculcation of morality and virtue. The press, the Archimedean lever which moves the world, sends forth floods of light, to illum- inate the land and benefit the sons of men. Railroads are completed to facilitate the acquisition of independ- ence, and the electric telegraph shortens the intervals of space at the behest of mankind. As these pages are read, bright memories will blossom out of the shadowy past, glorifying and beautifying its dimness. Many herein mentioned have long since gone, like visions of the beautiful, to be seen no more. Many yet remain who have almost reached the Biblical limits of human life, and are waiting to say : "Now let thy servant depart in peace," leaving as a heritage to their descend- ants in long years hence, the ripe and perfect glory of a domain of which they laid the foundations, while a large number of those who participated in the founda- tion of the county, sleep after their labors, and their works do follow them, an equally large number remain who have survived the rush of matter and wreck of worlds and contemplate the scene as a Rock of Ages cleft for the good and faithful servant.

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Author: Western historical co., Chicago, pub Publication date: 1881 Publisher: Chicago, Western historical company Number of Pages: 1052

Author: Western historical co., Chicago, pub
Publication date: 1881
Publisher: Chicago, Western historical company
Number of Pages: 1052