USA > Wisconsin > History of northern Wisconsin, containing an account of its settlement, growth, development, and resources; an extensive sketch of its counties, cities, towns and villages, their improvements, industries, manufactories; biographical sketches, portraits of prominent men and early settlers; views of county seats, etc. > Part 37
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153
HISTORY OF BUFFALO COUNTY.
tile valleys, almost to the angle formed by the Trem- pealeau and Mississippi rivers. At their western base, on the Mississippi, and a short distance below the mouth of the Big Waumandee, is the village of Fount- ain City. The extreme southern part of the county is a marsh. The bluffs are well stocked with timber of various kinds, oaks of several species being in the preponderance. Poplar, birch, and hickory abound in large quantities. The valleys all furnish more or less wild grass ; while on many small streams are excellent water-powers. Soft woods of many kinds grow on the bottom-lands of the Mississippi. Chippewa, Beef and Trempealeau rivers. The banks of the smaller streams put forth rank growths of alder and willow bushes. The county is productive of all the cereals, grasses and vegetables common to the latitude; wheat being the principal crop, with staple crops of oats, corn, bar- ley and rye, which return a good yield.
From the above description it will be noticed that the county is peculiarly adapted and possesses all the requi- sites for a fine stock-growing, grazing and dairying dis- trict. The number of small streams with their adjoining marshy lands and many springs oozing from the bases of the bluffs, form excellent facilities for butter and cheese making, while the bluffs, with their heavy tim- ber are a natural shelter for cattle from the Winter winds and storms. On the same farm may be seen the spring for pure water, the valley for cultivation, the hills for grazing and the timber for shelter. In later years farmers are turning their attention more to stock, and their results justify their investment.
The only good landing-places for Mississippi boats are Alma and Fountain City. Above and back of both of these towns rise precipitously for 700 feet the bluffs referred to above, whose beetling crags add much to the picturesqueness of the upper Mississippi River.
Geologically there is but little of interest connected with Buffalo County. It has not been made a field of very extensive explorations by the State geological corps. At about the same level in all of the bluffs are found about the same deposits, which indicate that this section has not suffered from any sudden disturbances. The county has not been the seat of any unhealthy excitement over the discovery of minerals. Years ago it was reported that lead was found at Fountain City. Occasionally a surveying party finds that their com- passes are seriously disturbed in certain places, but neither of these caused any system of mining to be in- augurated. A man once claimed he found a piece of mineral coal on one of the bluffs, which being put in the fire burned as readily as the coal of commerce, but every geologist knows that this section is not the place to expect a coal bed. At different places along the shores of Beef Slough and the mouth of Beef River are a few Indian mounds, but they have not pricked the ambition of curiosity-seekers, or if they have, the fruits of the search have not been preserved. In the town of Waumandee are a number of mounds, ev- idences of a prehistoric race, but no satisfactory ac- count has ever been given concerning them. A mound on the edge of the river between Big Waumandee Creek and the Mississippi River was opened a few years ago and was found to contain a skeleton of immense proportions. Further than this there is nothing of any
public importance connected with these traces of former occupation.
EARLY HISTORY.
The earliest authentic history of this region testi- fies that about the middle of the eighteenth century the " Naudouesioux," or Sioux tribe of Indians, occu- pied this territory. Passing to about the middle of the nineteenth century, without detailing the various inter-tribal contests that occurred during the inter- vening period, when white settlements first advanced up the Mississippi, this was regarded as disputed ter- ritory by the surrounding tribes, the Winnebagoes claim- ing the land below, the Chippewas the country north, and the Sioux occupying the opposite shore. This region was, therefore, the scene of many bloody bat- tles between these three tribes. But they were all peaceably disposed toward the whites. The stimulus to early adventures up the river was the fur trade, some going to the head waters of the Mississippi, while others landed at intermediate points, as opportunity would afford or interest suggest. The special induce- ment offered to tarry within the present limits of Buffalo County, was the trade of surrounding tribes. Accordingly, as early as 1839, and perhaps much earlier, Mr. Holme located in a little shanty near the present site of the beautiful village of Fountain City, and engaged in traffic with the Indians. He furnished fuel to the Mississippi boats. Holme was a genuine Western pioneer. To him life in the wilderness was a necessity, and the restraints of law and civilization a burden. Here he remained until 1846, when, like the Arab at nightfall, he "stole silently away," and all trace of him is lost. Adam Weber followed him in 1841. Mr. Holme claimed to have lived there fifteen years previous to Weber's arrival, making the year 1826 the date of his first settlement. Mr. Weber was happy in the wilds, actively engaged in trade with the red men. But when white faces became familiar, he sold his squatter claim to Henry Georke, and, with his squaw and children, moved toward the setting sun, in search of some quiet spot where neither ax nor plow might disturb his solitude -where, it is not known. During these years, occasional floaters would stop ; but not till 1842 was there any permanent settlement begun. This was introduced by the arrival of a party of Germans from Galena, Ill., among whom were Henry Georke, Christian Wenger, Rudolph Beiner, Victor Probst, John Menzemer, Andreas Baertsch, Claus Liesch, and others, all young men of courage and enterprise. These formed the nucleus of the first white settlement in Buffalo County. They located at the point now called Fountain City, built a row of log cabins along the river bank, and " Holme's Landing became a stopping place for Mississippi boats in Sum- mer, and a trading point for supplies of all kinds. These men were all engaged in cutting cord-wood for the use of those boats, which, at that time, were making monthly trips during the season of navigation between Galena and Fort Snelling. For a number of years after this, " Holme's Landing " was the only set- tlement in Buffalo County, the rest of the territory remaining in undisturbed possession of the Indians. During the next few years, immediately following
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HISTORY OF NORTHERN WISCONSIN.
1842, an occasional man joined the settlement, and, in 1845, Henry Georke, becoming dissatisfied with the bachelor community, made a trip to Galena, and re- turned in a few days, bringing with him a bride. Mrs. Georke (now Mrs. Bodenstab) was the pioneer white woman in the county. She still lives at Fount- ain City, and delights to recall the time when hers was the only hospitable roof between La Crosse and Wabasha. It is said that this act of Mr. Georke was regarded favorably by the community, and that others imitated the example with commendable promptness. In August, 1848, Victor Probst and John C. Wecker made claims where Alma now stands. In the same year, Madison Wright opened a wood yard on Section 11, Town 22, Range 14, on the bank of the Mississippi, in what is now the town of Nelson. Peter Shank settled on Section 3, in what is now the town of Cross, in 1850. He was the only resident of Cross for three years. J. C. Wecker, J. P. Stein and Joseph Berney came to Belvidere in the Spring of 1851. Mr. Wecker and Berney were former residents of Alma, and re- moved from there to Belvidere. Mr. Stein came from Wabasha. Mr. Wecker settled on Sections 19 and 30, Mr. Stein on Section 33, and Mr. Berney on Sec- tion 9. Christian Schaublin located on Section 36, town 23, Range 14, in what is now the town of Nelson, in 1852. Among the other settlers of 1852 are Anton Fink, Andrew Huller, Ferdinand Schaf and Mathew Profutlich, who came direct from the Rhine in Germany. At Milwaukee they purchased ox teams and wagons, and wended their way slowly to where they settled, in what is now the town of Lincoln. Henry Neukom, Henry Keller, Caspar Regley, Jacob Bollinger and John Miller also settled in the town of Belvidere, in the Spring of this same year, and began at once to open farms.
In the year 1853 came Francis John, Gustav A. Kretschmer, Fred. Schmidt, Francis Ginskay, Christian Schoepp and Frederich Schaub, who became perma- nent settlers of Lincoln. Adam Weber and Michael Obermeier opened farms on Section 31, in the present town of Milton, and a Mr. Piper, after whom Piper's Valley was named, settled on the bluff, on Section 14, in what is now the town of Buffalo. In the Spring of this year Andrew Baertsch, Charles Pibes, Phillip Menzzmer and George Zimmerman settled, and at once began the opening of farms, in what is now the town of Cross. Rev. Mr. Aldermath settled on Section 31, in this same town, in the Fall of 1853.
In the Summer of 1854, Christian Bohri, J. Lestor, J. Comstral, C. Buehler, H. Keller and Fred. Tinder settled in the town of Cross. Henry Plath and Henry Heuer also settled, during this year, in little valleys, which are yet known by their names, in the town of Buffalo. The first settler within the present limits of the town of Glencoe was Patrick Muleare, who set- tled on Section 33 in the Fall of 1854. The first entry of land in Waumandee was made in September of that year, by John Bachler and Christian Maserman ; but they did not become permanent settlers until about a year and a half afterwards. Fred. Zirzow, Jacob Braem, James Hohans, Joseph Jahn, George Goll and William Jahn made claims and settled in the town of Lincoln in 1854.
In 1855 the county settled very rapidly. On every hand were evidences of civilization. A great number of farms were rapidly cleared and fields prepared for crops. A great number of the settlers making their settlement during this year were poor at the time, but now are among the most wealthy and prosperous farm- ers of the county. The present towns of Maxville, Canton, Naples, Gilmanton and Alma were settled during this eventful year, Joseph Richard settling in the town of Alma early in the Spring, on Section 25, Town 22, Range 13. He was followed during the Summer of the same year by Ulrich Wald, on Section 31; Jacob Meter, Section 31; Peter Margreth, Sec- tion 32, and Casper Grob, who began at once to con- struct cabins and break land for crops, which they first planted in the Spring of 1856. William Bean, John Lafferty, George King, Abbott Read and Michael Aaron settled in the town of Maxville ; H. P., L. D. and P. Farrington, William Van Waters, Thomas Glasspool and H. Brown became settlers of Naples. What is now known as the " Tuttle Farm," within the present limits of Canton, on Section 2, was occupied and improved by a man named Quackenbos, and in August, Samuel Gilman and his four sons, Frank, Edson, Andrew and Daniel, took up land on Sections 8 and 17, in the town of Gilmanton, in what is now known as Gilman's Valley, and began at once to build cabins and cut hay to winter their stock. They spent the Winter in getting out rails for fencing. Land was broken, and crops planted the following Spring. Philo Englesby also settled in this town in the Fall of 1855, on Section 7, in what is now known as Allen's Valley. In September, 1854, Robert Henry entered land on Section 30, in the town of Waumandee, and returned at once to Racine, where he had left his family, and came back with them and settled on his land in May, 1855. Mr. Henry and family traveled the whole dis- tance from Racine to Waumandee with an ox team and covered wagon, reaching Waumandee on the second day of May. Any one acquainted with the severity of this northwestern climate will readily see that such a trip was any thing but pleasant. Charles Kirchner, Herman Altman and Charles Hohman settled in Wau- mandee on the fourth day of April, 1855, and began at once to make improvements on their land. John Richtman, Andrew Beck and Jacob Augst settled in this town in the Spring, and John Mauer, Conrad Ulrich and John Schmidt in the Fall of the same year. In the Spring of 1855, E. Lees, John Burt, William Burt, J. More and a few others settled in the town of Cross; Gotlieb Keller, Gotlieb Krause Jacob Batzett and Alfred Street settled in the town of Buffalo; Benedict Hanney, Henry Kessler, Sebastian Klett, Jacob Blum and Ludwig Mochbempak opened farms and planted crops in the town of Milton, and Carl Kisck settled, in the Fall, in the same town, and began to make improvements on a farm. At the time the preceding settlements were made in the town of Milton, there were many Indians belonging to the Sioux and Winnebago tribes who annoyed the settlers very much by petty thefts. In the Summer of 1855, the Scandinavians began to settle in the town of Nel- son. Among those who came were Ole Hanson, who settled on Section 11; Arne Otteson, on Section 14 ;
155
HISTORY OF BUFFALO COUNTY.
Jens Howland, on Section 23. These settlements were all made in what is now known as Norwegian Valley. William Gumbert also settled on Section 16, on land now owned by the Beef Slongh Company.
During the year 1856 the county was also largely in- creased in population and resources by the advent of numbers of new settlers, the present towns of Dover and Montana receiving their first settlements, S. S. Cooke settling on Section 27, in the town of Dover, on the 20th of August, and Christian Kindschy, Ulrich Von- wald and August Helwig, with their families, settling in the town of Montana in the Spring of this year. They began at once to construct rude cabins and open farms, Mr. Kindschy and Vonwald locating on Section 36 and Mr. Helwig on Section 25. A number of the other towns received additional settlers during this year, also William Allison, James Mair, Herman Ful- ler and Barney McDonough locating in Maxville ; William Loomis, Daniel Loomis, A. P. Loomis, Ezra Hutchinson, W. H. H. Amidon, Mond E. Ferry, T. C. Bailey, L. J. Claflin, C. W. Rathbun and Frank Hatch, locating in the town of Gilmanton ; John Burgess, J. L. Halloch, Andrew Dewitt, Ira Lawrence, H. Kol- hippi, Peter Mathew, William Ives, Elijah Wilcox and Wilson Crippin in Nelson ; James Faulds, William Muir, David J. Davis and J. P. Fernholz settled and began the improvement of farms in Glencoe : John Ochsner and Henry Waelty locating in Waumandee, Mr. Waelty purchasing Mauli's claim and John Ochs- ner a mill-privilege, where he has now a fine grist-mill. Rev. B. F. Morse settled a little below where the vil- lage of Mondovi now stands, in the town of Naples, and held the first religious meeting in this town in a log house, 16x20, owned by Luther Eager.
An event of interest, and not common in a new country, occurred in the Summer of 1857, which was the settlement of Messrs. Coleman and Maxvell in the town of Maxville with a herd of over 200 cattle, also three span of mules and a number of horses. This stock was driven from Illinois and kept on Maxville prairie until sold. Among the other settlers of 1857 were Judson Hutchinson, R. E. Fuller, D. C. and D. D. Loomis and John Merrill in the town of Gilmanton ; J. S. DeGroff, Luther Hewitt, A. Bell and H. H. Hurl- burt in Nelson ; Thomas Courtney and Andrew Cashel in Glencoe; John Mahlman on Section 31, John Wind- andy, or Section 5, John Alleman, on Section 36, David Jost, Theodore Menli, Conrad Moser, Sr., and Mathias Hammer settling in the town of Alma.
In 1858 the first settlement was made in what is now the town of Modena, on Section 26, in the month of March by William Odell, Sr., and his two sons, David and Austin, who were former residents of West Point, Columbia County. David White, a former res- ident of Pepin County, settled at the same time on Section 26 also, and William Odell, Jr., settled on Section 23. George W. Wooster located on Section 18, in the town of Dover. During the Spring of this year Jacob and Peter Wald, Julins and Frank Gobar settled in the town of Alma, and in company with W. H. Gates built a mill on Mill Creek, which was afterwards known as the " Mill Creek Mill." In the Fall of this year Conrad Christ and Andrew Florin settled in the town of Montana, on Section 32, Town 22, Range 10. They
were both former residents of La Crosse County, and came from there to Montana.
In 1859 F. Schneller and B. Karish located in the town of Montana ; Mr. Schneller on Section 23, and Mr. Karish on Section 27. J. G. Folmer, Joseph Arp- gaus and J. Ford settled in the town of Alma. There were a number of other settlers in this town during this year, but we are unable to learn their names.
In the Spring of 1860 J. W. Mckay settled on Sec- tion 24, and in the Fall of the same year F. A. Sisson and R. P. Goodard settled in the town of Modena. Lewis Kniffin, Julius Par and T. W. Glasspool, Sr., settled the southwest corner of the town of Canton, and about the same time or a little before, came Earle Ward and Thomas Enscoe, who settled in the north part of the same town.
Thus year by year was formed the nucleus from which has grown this wealthy and prosperous com- monwealth. We do not claim this a complete list of those who settled in Buffalo County during the years referred to, but have merely made a brief record of the early settlements, in different localities in the county, as they have occurred to us. From 1860 the county increased so rapidly in population and the development of its resources, that any attempt to mention more individual names would render this sketch very tedious.
J. P. Stein claims to have grown the first grain in Buffalo County. He broke the first land in the Sum- mer of 1851, procured two bushels of wheat from Galena, Ill., which was sown in the Spring of 1852, and a crop of seventy-four and one-half bushels raised. The threshing was done with a flail. The first barley. was also raised by Mr. Stein ; he secured one gallon of seed from a Frenchman in Wabasha, from which a crop of seven bushels was raised. Mr. Stein also kept the first stopping place between Fountain City and Alma, as will be remembered by many of the early pio- neers. The incidents connected with the early settle- ment of Buffalo County are the old stories of hardships and privations, not unmixed with pleasure. Then, each man regarded his neighbor as a brother, and was will- ing to share with him the comforts and luxuries of a pioneer life. If a deer was killed, or other luxury obtained, to pass it around was generally the first thought and act. All were actuated by a common interest-that of building up homes-and to this lay the foundation of future prosperity. When we re- member that where is now the thriving village, or the fields of the husbandmen, but a few years previous was the home of the Red Man, covered with sturdy oaks of an hundred years, we are led to inquire, by what process has this wonderful change been wronght? It will be seen, however, by the above dates, that most of the settlements of Buffalo County were made less than thirty years ago, and from so small a beginning has grown this prosperous community. In that time the Indian has disappeared. The land which he had inherited from a long line of savage ancestors, has passed from his possession. Civil and savage life could not exist together. The dominion theory of the survival of the fittest prevailed. His game was fast disappearing before the unerring rifle of the pioneer, and poor " Lo" was destined once again to turn his
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HISTORY OF NORTHERN WISCONSIN.
face toward the setting sun, and seek a new hunting ground, amid the wilds of the West, beyond the " Great Father of Waters," where the foot of the roving pale face had never trod. The tide of immigration had set this way, and on every hand were the crusaders of a new civilization. On every side, on bluff and in valley, could be heard the sturdy blows of the pioneer, as he felled the oaks for his rude cabin, or cleared the fields for the golden harvest, and there laid with honest hand the foundation of success.
Let us briefly review the results of thirty years of patient toil, and see in that time what has been accom- plished. In 1851 the first farm was opened, as above stated, and crops planted the following Spring. Now there is a cultivated area in Buffalo County of about 100,000 acres, which, according to the official returns of 1881, was planted to the following crops: Wheat, 51,522 acres; oats, 15,018 acres ; corn, 12,444 acres ; cultivated grasses, 11,719 acres ; barley, 3,159 acres ; potatoes, 1,027 acres ; rye. 835 acres.
The assessed valuation of all personal property in the county is $766,210, and of real estate is $1,966,- 626.
The first religious services were conducted at the house of J. P. Stein, in the town of Belvidere, in 1853, the sermon being preached by Rev. Mr. Alter- mott. Religious services were held in some of the different towns in the county as follows: At Fountain City in 1855, the sermon being preached in a school- house, by Rev. Mr. Richards, a Methodist. In Naples in 1856, in a log house owned by Luther Eager, by Rev. B. F. Morse. In Waumandee, at the upper end of Wanmandee Valley, in 1857, by a Lutheran preacher. In Gilmanton, at the residence of C. W. Rathbun, in the Summer of 1857. also by Rev. B. F. Morse. In Modena in the Summer of 1859, in a school-house on Section 23, by Rev. Mr. Doughty.
The first post-office in the county was opened at Fountain City, with James Pierce as Postmaster.
The first newspaper in the county was established at Fountain City, in 1856, by Messrs. Rose & Beeson.
The first store was opened at Fountain City, also, previous to 1854, by Henry Georke. He also built the first saw-mill in the county on Eagle Creek.
The first birth was Frederick, a son of Daniel Schilling, in 1851. The first death occurred at the residence of J. C. Wecker, in the Spring of 1851, and and was Jacob Bollinger. The first marriage occurred in April, 1853, when J. C. Wecker and Sabina Keller joined hands in matrimony. The ceremony was per- formed at the residence of J. P. Stein, Esquire Pierce officiating as Magistrate.
Religious sects of all kinds are at present repre- sented in the county, and every village and town has its church spire and Sunday-school.
There are now eighty schools in Buffalo County. under the management of an able corps of teachers. The ex-County Superintendent of Schools, Lawrence Kessinger, and his able successor, J. C. Rathbun, are both efficient and life-long educators, and have done much, in their management of the school system of the county, to elevate the standard of scholarship. The comfortable school buildings one sees on every hand prove that the people appreciate the advantages
and necessity of a good school education. The primi- tive log cabin has given place to the brick, stone or frame building ; while the curriculum of study, the ability of the teacher, and the requirements of the school board, have all advanced with equal pace. The attendance is good, schools being kept open from six to nine months in the year.
In 1864, the "Howard Library Association" was organized in the town of Gilmanton, and has been in successful operation since. It is well patronized by the citizens of that as well as the adjoining towns. The library was first started by a donation of $500 by Sidney Howard. This fund was to be kept on interest, and the interest used annually to purchase books. It now has in its possession hundreds of volumes. em- bracing books from the pens of the best American and foreign authors. The " Mill Creek Library Asso- ciation " was organized about ten years ago, in the town of Alma, and also contains a number of volumes of literature, principally from German authors. These libraries are doing mueh towards the diffusion of a useful and instructive literature.
Germany is largely represented in the citizenship of the county, Swedes being next in numbers. The customs and habits of " Fatherland " did not suffer by their passage across the ocean, and consequently are retained in a great degree socially and religiously. The villages of Alma and Fountain City might pass for villages on the banks of the Rhine instead of the Mississippi. Yet an admixture of these people makes a good community, and Buffalo has grown and devel- oped with commendable rapidity, the census of 1880 numbering 15,228.
Buffalo County has no railroads traversing her ter- ritory, except in the extreme southern corner, where the Green Bay & Minnesota and Chicago & North- western Railways cross, on their way to the city of Winona, Minn. These only include ten miles of track. and consequently the county has not that bonded in- debtedness which usually accompanies such enterprises. She depends on the Father of Waters for her com- merce, which affords an easy and cheap outlet, and down its broad bosom are annually carried the products of her soil. On this account she has never felt the special need of a railroad. In this sketch of the coun- try at large, we have attempted only a brief review of events and enterprises, to give a group of facts that will convey an intelligent idea of the wonderful strides the country has made in a little over a quarter of a century, from an unbroken wilderness to a paradise of civilized life.
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