History of northern Wisconsin, containing an account of its settlement, growth, development, and resources; an extensive sketch of its counties, cities, towns and villages, their improvements, industries, manufactories; biographical sketches, portraits of prominent men and early settlers; views of county seats, etc., Part 141

Author: Western historical co., Chicago, pub
Publication date: 1881
Publisher: Chicago, Western historical company
Number of Pages: 1052

USA > Wisconsin > History of northern Wisconsin, containing an account of its settlement, growth, development, and resources; an extensive sketch of its counties, cities, towns and villages, their improvements, industries, manufactories; biographical sketches, portraits of prominent men and early settlers; views of county seats, etc. > Part 141

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It will be thus seen that, notwithstanding the ad- vantages of locality and its accessibility, La Crosse was not thought of as a site for a city for a period between

the time when Hennepin first ascended to the upper country and the year when Nathan Myrick visited the scene on that gloomy November day, and decided to establish himself here, and out of the wilderness fash- ion a city which should some day be regarded as a city altogether lovely, altogether promising, the one among ten thousand to which the footsteps of active enterprise should be directed, and where the virtues of this life would be treasured and promoted through the instru- mentality of agencies by which alone the maintenance of order and the perpetuity of nations are firmly secured.

The efforts made in that behalf by Mr. Myrick, "Scoots " Miller, J. M. Levy, Timothy Burns, Col. Stoddard, F. M. Rublee, Col. Rodolf and others to build upon foundations not altogether secure at the time, have been cited. The failures that greeted their initiatory attempts, and the successes which. followed their industry and perseverance, have also been quoted. To their constant diligence, indomitable energy, un- tiring zeal and liberal policy is the city indebted for its location, for its growth, and for its position among prominent points in the Northwest which combinations and circumstances have united to project and aid in realizing. The city is a monument to their intelligence and enterprise that will survive when the superficial tokens of remembrance which ordinarily perpetuate the virtues of mankind shall have crumbled into oblivion.

The early history of La Crosse as a village has also been submitted, its growth into a city detailed, and the features of that growth.

The city stands on the east bank of the Mississippi, 660 miles from St. Louis and 197 miles from St. Paul. It is located on a beautiful prairie seven miles in length by two and one-half miles in width, with the Missis- sippi Bluffs, which hug the river closely on the Min- nesota side, here keeping at a respectful distance. The lower portion of the city is devoted to business ; further east, business houses are interspersed with pri- vate residences, schools, parks and drives of superior beauty and excellence, the whole completing a picture both harmonious and attractive. Further east, the grounds on which the city is built rise above the level of the Front street plateau, ascended by admirably graded and macadamized roadways, and adorned with private residences, gardens and resorts, the homes of intelligence, wealth and liberality. Still further east are the Bluffs, from the summits of which is spread out before the observer a landscape rivaling in beauty and exquisite perfection the master-pieces of artists who touched but to adorn. A range of hills bounds the western horizon, between which and the Bluffs is a matchless panorama of groves, gardens, and gently-roll- ing prairies. Nestling upon the bank of the river the city quietly reposes, while the majestic Mississippi rolls onward its mighty volume of waters from the bleak regions of the North, through the Missouri and Missis- sippi Valleys, to empty into the Gulf amid the cane- fields and orange-groves of tropic Louisiana. Across the river, the whistle of the locomotive is constantly heard as hurrying trains come and go ; farther on are the green hills of Minnesota, while above them all stand the Bluffs, looking down with a cousciousness of dig-

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HISTORY OF LA CROSSE COUNTY.

nity that comes of age and superiority. The scene is grand beyond description, evoking emotions of the sub- lime and beautiful, and inspiring the heart with rever- ence for nature and nature's God. Facing each other from opposite shores are immense monuments of a former geological period, that have braved the storms raging about their summits for centuries. Beside their antiquity, how brief is the span of historic lore ! States, kingdoms and empires have risen and grown through their youth and manhood to old age, and disappeared, even from memory, long after these memorials of the ages past reared their heads above the earth at their base. Through countless centuries they have looked calmly down upon the Father of Waters and marked his varying, sinuous course as he rushed heedlessly on, even to the opposing battlements of the opposite shore.

The site of the city is in latitude 43° 49', longitude 91° 14', and is nearly on the same parallel as She- boygan, Kingston, Ticonderoga and Montpelier. It is nearly midway of the continent, and has nothing to fear from rivals within a distance of 100 miles in any direction. The scenery combines the simple and ro- mantic. The rolling prairie, undulating for miles, and embracing within its limits the city of La Crosse and town of Onalaska on the eastern shore, with the vil- lage of La Crescent on the west, present a scene of quiet beauty hardly to be surpassed. The bold, lofty bluffs on either side, standing like grim wardens jealous of the trust, present their rocky bastions to the sun- shine and the storm, regardless alike of the flight of years or the war of elements, and seem to defy the ravages of the gnawing tooth of time. Rejoice, oh hills, in your strength, but know that your lofty heads shall be brought low. Every particle that now forms your mighty bulk shall be disintegrated and become undistinguishable from the sands at your feet, the sport of the wind or prey of the river, to be borne where it will. Thus shall the valleys be exalted and the hills brought low.

The river gives life and animation to the scene, winding in a serpentine course, now washing the bases of the inclosing hills or cutting through the midst of an extended plain, which sometimes parts to take the waters in its embrace; it always moves majesti- cally and triumphantly on its course. Swollen by the Spring rains or melting snows of Winter, it extends its channel to a distance of miles on either sides, till it be- comes a long, continuous inland sea. Yielding to the Summer heats, it dwindles to a mere rift in comparison with the mighty volume it had so shortly before borne in triumph to the sea. The Mississippi never for two consecutive seasons probably pursues exactly the same course, and the changes furnish a variety to the land- scape always pleasing to the sight, though often des- tructive to the property of those having possessions within reach of the annual floods.

From the summit of the bluffs, or any elevation, the scene is at all times one of rare beauty. The contrast of hill and vale, open prairie and woodland, of water and land, gives a variety most grateful to the eye. From the esplanade, at the foot of Main street, over- looking the river, one never fails to see a glorious sun- set, when the weather is propitious. The changing

hues are modified by the bare tops of the bluffs, their wooded slopes and the plain and river at the base, so that almost every varying shade may be traced from the deepest hue to the almost inperceptible tint. The pencil of the artist and inspiration of the poet would alike fail in giving an adequate conception of the won- derful loveliness of a La Crosse sunset.

Commercially, the city is almost admirably situated, being accessible from large agricultural regions, east and west; on the direct route from Chicago and all eastern points to the Black Hills and other distant points in the Territories, the sale and direct shipment of goods as also their tran-shipment is simply enormous, and every entire mile of road is said to embrace a radius of an entire township in area that is added to La Crosse, whose advantages of competing freights by car and steamer, must make it the great distributing point of all the new region to the westward, now being opened to settlement and traffic. This pre-eminence can no doubt will be held indefinitely by judicious management on the part of the commercial community.

For two hundred miles to the northward, even to Lake Superior, is a vast pine region, the product of of which, following the natural high ways of the numer- ous rivers above, emptying into the Mississippi, must of necessity pass La Crosse and pay tribute to the lumber mills which last year had a combined produc- tion of one hundred and thirty-five million feet. The traffic on Black River has been directed hither from the settlement of the place, and the books of the Black River Improvement Company exhibit the immense traffic of that stream for the past thirteen years, in the statement that 2,061,491,300 feet of pine lumber has floated out of that stream since the company was organized.

There are now ten mills at work in La Crosse, and as an instance of the work done by these mills, it may be stated that in one of them, during a run of 210 days in 1880, with but two circular saws, there were turned out 18,500,000 feet oflumber, 7.250,000 shingles, 7,500,- 000 cords of slabs and 1,000,000 lath. There are three flouring mills, with an aggregate capacity of 1,500 barrels of flour daily. The steamboat interests repre- sent a valuation of nearly half a million ; while the railroad and other interests are estimated at nearly half a million.

By the Winter of 1856, the population of La Crosse had increased to nearly 3,000, and the question of in- corporation as a city was again seriously mooted.

The subject was first agitated in the Fall of 1854, when it was suggested that a meeting be held to decide upon the principal features which were wished incor- porated in a bill preparatory to becoming a city. It was even then considered high time that some effectual organization be had, whereby a system of permament improvements in the grading of streets and building of side-walks, etc., could be commenced. The matter fell through, however, and nothing was done until Dec. 17, 1855, when a meeting was held at the court-house to take into consideration the propriety of applying to the Legislature for a village or city charter. There was but a limited attendance, and again did failure attend the efforts. Finally a bill was adopted at the session of the Legislature, which convened in Madison, in

486

HISTORY OF NORTHERN WISCONSIN.

January, 1856, and La Crosse became a city by name, as also in faet. The charter divided the city into three wards. each ward electing three Aldermen the first year, who held their offices for one, two, and three years, respectively. The remaining officers were a Mayor, Clerk, Treasurer, Superintendent of Sehcols, Police Justice, Marshal and a City Attorney, with the usual complement of Justices of the Peace, Assessors, Constables, and the election was directed to be held on the first Tuesday in April next ensuing.

When the intelligence of legislative action, in har- mony with the ambitions of La Crosseans, was promul- gated, the citizens became as enthusiastic as the boy with his first pair of new boots, and took immediate action looking to an acceptance of the conditions by making provisions for holding an election at the date specified.

On Friday, March 14, 1856, the Democracy assem- bled at the court-house, where Col. Stoddard was nomi- nated for Mayor; but declining, John M. Levy was substituted and headed the following ticket: F. A. Moore, Clerk ; J. H. Rogers, Treasurer; H. E. Hub- bard, Police Justice ; Peter Burns, City Marshal ; C. R. Rogers, City Attorney, and the Rev. W. C. Sherwin, Superintendent of Schools.

The Ward officers were : Edward Flint, William Denison, and Moses Clark, Aldermen ; H. E. Hubbard' Justice, and William Hood, Assessor.

Second Ward-George Scharpf, W. H. Tucker and E. D. Campbell, Aldermen ; Z. P. Herrick, Assessor, and John Clos, Constable.

Third Ward-James Whalen, Robert Looney and Chase A Stevens, Aldermen ; C. Walters, Justice ; J. S. Harris, Assessor, and F. Boker, Constable.

On the succeeding day a meeting was held in the court-house also, at which the following tieket was adopted under the caption "Citizens' Nominations," Thomas B. Stoddard for Mayor; David B. Travis for Police Justice ; W. W. Ustick, Treasurer; James M. Randall, Clerk, and L. A. Ellis, Attorney.

First Ward-Jonas Mohr, W. W. Crosby and F. M. Rublee, Aldermen ; D. B. Travis, Justice of the Peace ; Elisa Whitlesey, Assessor, and Thomas McDowall, Constable.

Second Ward-A. W. Webster, Allen Overbaugh and James W. Polleys, Aldermen ; J. S. Simonton, Justice of the Peace ; Simeon Kellogg, Assessor, and Abner Polleys, Constable.

Third Ward-A. D. La Due, A. W. Pettibone and A. W. Shepard, Aldermen ; S. S. Snow, Justice of the Peace ; F. P. Bradish, Assessor, and J. A. Bowman, Constable.

The campaign, though brief, was spirited and not altogether devoid of the features which characterize similar undertakings of the present day. The election was held on the day appointed, and is represented to have been quiet. It resulted in the choice of Thomas B. Stoddard for Mayor, with a majority of the Democratic ticket including the Aldermen, whom the opposition press did not hesitate to pronounce eapable and honest, who would furnish a faithful administration and afford proper encouragement for all necessary, but not too expensive improvements.

The Common Council convened at the court-house

on Tuesday morning, April 8, 1855, at which Chase A Stevens was elected Chairman pro tem., though the Mayor elect presided, and the preliminaries of organiz- ing a municipal government were disposed of.

La Crosse, as a city, dates its beginning at this point. As was expected and predicted, La Crosse was full of strangers, and increased in numbers daily by the arri- vals of from thirty to eighty ; some for business in the city, and some for the country thereto tributary. Houses went up as if by magie, new stores were opened, shops filled with goods, streets overrun with business, business men, drays, carts, speculators, farmers, and yet more coming. Rents and the prices of real estate ap- preciated at once. Money was tight, provisions higher, labor higher ; every mechanic had all he could attend to, and all this in the course of business without any undue excitement. The hotels were crowded to reple- tion, and difficulty was experienced in obtaining a place to sleep. There were no houses to rent, and many families were obliged to put up a shanty, and, covering it with boards, occupy this makeshift until different arrangements could be made. Notwithstanding the absence of houses, it would be impossible to notice one- twentieth part of the buildings put up during that year. Among the most important was that put up opposite the National Democrat office, which was erected at a cost of $20,000 ; the three-story building on the corner of State and Second streets built by Smith & Francis ; the three-story brick put up by John M. Levy, adjoin- ing the Augusta House, corner of Pearl and Front streets ; the banking house of Lathrop & Co., adjoin- ing the Democrat office, and the stores of Hoare & El- liott, of Mark Gultman & Co., with others, all of brick, increased the facilities for business, and removed some cause for complaint of a lack of room.

In June, what has sinee been known as North La Crosse, was added to the city, and now constitutes the Fifth Ward. It lay north of the railroad addition, and adjoining the city limits, where it was surveyed out of lands owned by Messrs. Rublee, Gillett, Cameron, Sill and Clinton, and has become a valuable and very con- siderable part of the city. At that time, it was the loeality of mills conducted by Gillett & Co., Crosby, Hanseome & Co., Shepard & Valentine and others, and during 1856 it was made the nucleus of this line of busi- ness, which is to-day unsurpassed in the amount of lumber cut and amount of profits accruing by any other point in the Northwest. It has become the principal place to manufacture lumber from the logs cut on Black River and its tributaries. The price of lots there was placed at a comparatively low figure, and the terms made to suit those who desired to purchase. The re- sult has been that North La Crosse has grown into a manufacturing point of immense resources, tributary to and yet a part of La Crosse proper.

One great want said to have been felt was the lack of money to be invested in mechanical, commercial and residenee investments. As a commentator observed at the time, " there is one thing the market here is sup- plied with, and that is whisky shops."

This year the educational advantages of the city were increased and enhanced. In May, an Education- al Convention was held in the city, and a society or- ganized for the promotion of popular education, for the

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HISTORY OF LA CROSSE COUNTY.

free discussion of all topics connected with the success of common schools, and for the support of a Teachers' Institute. Other measures were inaugurated by the city and county in behalf of the cause to make up for what had been left undone in the years when La Crosse was a settlement or a village. Through the Spring the system bore abundant fruits, and, when school re-com- menced in October, it was with means and facilities to which the community had heretofore been stran- gers.

On October 7, a union school was commenced under the direction of Dr. Kennett, who came from Cincin- nati to take charge, while those not sufficiently ad- vanced in their studies attended at the brick school- house, in which studies higher than elementary were taught. A primary school was opened in the Baptist Church, and the intention of the School Board was to provide all who desired to avail themselves of the means of securing a substantial education.

What was true of the schools will apply with equal force to the churches. The cause of religion was care- fully nurtured and sustained.

Among the corporations which organized and went actively to work, in addition to the railway ventures that were projected and halted this year, was the Ona- laska Plank Road and Bridge Company, of which Francis M. Rublee was president ; George Gale, vice- president ; D. D. Cameron, secretary ; Albert T. Clin- ton, treasurer ; C. A. Stevens, attorney, and William R. Sill, chief engineer. The company built the plank road from La Crosse north, and exercised the trust com- mitted to it with fidelity.

In the Spring, the " Northern Belle," then and since esteemed as one of the most elaborately built and fur- nished, as also speedy, boats that ever landed at La Crosse, reached the city in charge of Capt. Lodwick, and on the night of Friday, August 6, following, the storm-cloud Euroclydon swooped down upon the city, unroofing the Augusta House, Crosby & Hanscome's saw-mill, and doing considerable damage to other build- ings.

One of the sad events of this year, and which brought sorrow to many hearts, was the death of Mrs. Emelyne J. Fales, nee Carlton, who will be remem- bered as the belle of the ball given in La Crosse, Christ- mas night, 1851. Seldom has death plucked a fairer flower or stricken the hearts of so many warm personal friends. She died April 7, 1856, universally mourned.

With the advent of another year, new hopes clus- tered around the hearts of the residents of La Crosse, and kindled a new zeal in the struggle for life. Im- provement and progress had become as much of a ne- cessity as existence, and the spirit of enterprise and liberality had new developments in every department of business life. The dawn of the new year was the signal for new plans and preparations in their behalf, all tending toward progress and the realization of hopes founded upon reason and practical common sense.

The city was now in the sixth year of its growth, and contained a population estimated at 5,000. The activity apparent on all sides, the immense stocks stored and on sale, and the bustle and excitement about her shops and manufacturing establishments, gave abundant evidence of her prosperity and thrift.

The city was well built, supplied with commodious stores, warehouses and hotels, two banks; supported two papers, both wide awake to everything which af- fected the interests of the city containing a "lively " class of residents, and fully confirming the destiny predicted of her to become one of the leading cities of the upper Mississippi.

Among the more prominent of the merchants established here at this period, and who aided in pro- curing for La Crosse the reputation of being the sec- ond city in Wisconsin, were D. F. Harrington & Co., M. A. Gedney & Co., A. A. Stevens, A. G. Bagley & Co., Hoare & Elliott, Walter Brown, Brodish & Tur- ner, Smith & Ustick Lloyd & Supplee, Gutman, Len- non & Co., McGibbon & Pennal and others. J. S. Pfouts, Mrs. M. E. Finney, M. D., McArthur & Cam- eron and P. Brooks officiated as physicians ; D. Shil- lock, A. Johnson, J. R. Crossett, Dennison & Lyndes, C. G. & M. G. Hanscome, La Due, Armstrong & Co., O. T. Gilman and Price & Johnson pleaded law and collected claims; George Sharpf was the fashionable draper and tailor, John Williams the barber, and Polleys & Williams entertained the hun- gry and furnished amusements, as also supplies for the ennuied and thirsty ; Mrs. Standish taught music ; Mrs. Coudry and Mrs. Dennison catered to the æsthetic tastes of ladies of fashion, and submitted stocks of laces and what-nots to their approval and pur- chase. The Mississippi, La Crosse, Augusta and other houses were esteemed hotels, and the Katauyau and City Banks, with J. M. Levy, Cramer, Clinton & Co., and Pike & Bacon, were advertised as places of dis- count and deposit. The several church seats were represented by advocates of Him who taught peace on earth, good will to men, who were ready to point the way to life eternal, unite two souls with but a single thought, visit the sick, comfort the widow and orphan and bury the dead ; and every creed, profession and occupation was most generously represented.

The amusements were of a simple and more unpre- tentious character as compared with the class of enter- tainments to-day submitted to the judgment and ap- plause of fastidious audiences. A few of the young men of the city formed a Lyceum and amused them- selves, as also their friends, while practicing in the art of speaking and debating ; a course of lectures was at one time proposed, but according to the Republican, the community delighted altogether too much in the "toe and heel exercise," and the project was abandoned. An individual, under the name of the "North Star" appeared at Barron's Hall once or twice during the year, to perform the difficult feat of walking forty hours without stopping, upon a platform fourteen feet long and three feet wide. At occasional intervals, the " Great Western Opera" and other troupes con- tributed to the pleasures of the season, by negro delin- eations, Irish characterization, etc., and after the per- formance closed, the benches were usually removed from the hall to afford those who were without corns, an opportunity of tripping the light fantastic. Balls and parties were also added to the complement of amusements furnished, and were conducted with a de- gree of dignity to be observed at the most distingue receptions of to-day. Indecd, the glass of fashion

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HISTORY OF NORTHERN WISCONSIN.

was as frequently consulted by the fair women and amusement-loving men as is done to-day, and they danced the happy hours away, taking as little thought of the morrow as the daughters of fashion of a later period were wont to do. But thus far circuses and combinations, crushed tragedians, Josh Whitcombs, Bernhardts and revised editions of Dr. Landis were among the " blessings" yet unborn.

Early in the year the project of widening and im- proving Fourth street was broached, and met with considerable favor among those interested. It was thought, in view of the future prospects of La Crosse, the consummation of this scheme was earnestly advo- cated. It would fix Fourth street as the great artery and business thoroughfare, the Broadway of the com- mercial emporium of Western Wisconsin. It was urged that a width and grade be established, also the distance at which streets should be set from the line of lots, and and that improvements be undertaken which should command public admiration. In the interest of this improvement, a meeting was called at the court-house, on the evening of February 18, to talk the matter over and take such action as might have been deemed neces- sary to secureits accomplishment ; but nothing resulted, and Fourth street long since yielded precedence to Main street as the popular business street and public promenade.

But if this venture proved the opposite of success- ful, such was not the case with other undertakings. A musical association was organized aud gave concerts occasionally, by particular request, at Barron's Hall, and the praiseworthy efforts of the society evoked a murmur of surprise at the " quantity and quality of musical talent " that was wasting in the city. Another success scored during the Spring was the organization of a fire company, the first in the city. This grew out of the constant alarms of fire raised, it is said, al- most daily within the city limits. Its repetition pro- duced an effect upon the public mind, and those who owned property began to fear that the streets of La Crosse would some day be made desolate. In Febru- ary, three buildings caught fire and were only saved by the greatest exertions. Later in the month, an alarm from opposite portions of the city was sounded, and both houses were destroyed. The bucket brigade, with axes, comprised the department of that day, and their labors were considered as feeble in opposition to elements, against which only almost inexhaustible re- sources can combat. The loss that would some day accrue, if measures were not taken without delay to prevent it, would be in the nature of a calamity, the reparation of which would be difficult, if not impossi- ble. There was material in the city out of which to organize hook and ladder and engine companies, and be- fore it was too late the citizens decided to do this. The members should be made up of young men, and for once in the history of the human family, to be youth- ful was a condition of felicity super-terrestrial.

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Author: Western historical co., Chicago, pub Publication date: 1881 Publisher: Chicago, Western historical company Number of Pages: 1052

Author: Western historical co., Chicago, pub
Publication date: 1881
Publisher: Chicago, Western historical company
Number of Pages: 1052