History of northern Wisconsin, containing an account of its settlement, growth, development, and resources; an extensive sketch of its counties, cities, towns and villages, their improvements, industries, manufactories; biographical sketches, portraits of prominent men and early settlers; views of county seats, etc., Part 142

Author: Western historical co., Chicago, pub
Publication date: 1881
Publisher: Chicago, Western historical company
Number of Pages: 1052


USA > Wisconsin > History of northern Wisconsin, containing an account of its settlement, growth, development, and resources; an extensive sketch of its counties, cities, towns and villages, their improvements, industries, manufactories; biographical sketches, portraits of prominent men and early settlers; views of county seats, etc. > Part 142


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Accordingly, a meeting of the " young men " of the city was convened at the court-house, on Saturday evening, February 21, and preparations in that connec- tion concluded. L. D. Hubbard presided, with E. P. Drake, secretary. A constitution and by-laws were adopted, and the following officers elected : J. G. Ad-


ams, foreman ; A. A. Hobart and J. Turner, assistants ; E. P. Drake, secretary ; D. Sturgis, treasurer, and C. R. Spoffard, hose master.


Thus was the organization of the first fire company, according to the proper meaning of the appellation, in La Crosse, carried to a successful issue. In time the company obtained its " masheen." The water buckets and more primitive implements, which had theretofore been employed, were laid by, a sad farewell taken of their companionship, and one of the most indispensable and prominent factors of life in a city became one of the prominent and indispensable factors of life in La Crosse.


The Winter prolonged its stay in La Crosse beyond all reason, and the supply of snow and ice continued provokingly plentiful until late in March. When the weather became warm, Winter released its rigorous grasp upon town and country, and life began once more out of doors. Some sales of property were made, both in the vicinity of La Crosse and over the river in Min- nesota, but at rather lower figures, especially in the latter place, than the property transferred had been previously held. In the city the sales for February and part of March aggregated about $15,000, the pur- chasers being C. Butler, W. R. Collett and McBurney & Co., and the prices regarded as fair. The sales of Rublee & Burnell for one week in May amounted to $20,000.


Up to September, when the first shock to the finan- cial world was experienced, the sales of real estate were in keeping with the history of former years, and the rates then charged generally maintained. After the failure of the Ohio Life & Trust Company, which precipitated the panic, real estate, like other subjects of barter and exchange, was without any value.


On Saturday, March 14, the city was visited by one of the most disastrous conflagrations of record from that date to this, and particularly so at the time when the city was pushing forward so rapidly and satisfac- torily, and when, also, the country was, as the sequel proved, on the eve of financial complications from the effects of which it was years in recovering. The flames were discovered in the New England House about 11 o'clock in the morning, and notwithstanding the exertions of citizens, the entire block on the east side of Front street, between State and Main, with the exception of Clark's saloon, was burned to the ground, entailing a total loss of $30,000, part of which was insured, and inflicting a blow upon the city's appear- ance that was almost paralyzing. It had the effect, however, of augmenting the strength of the depart- ment, and causing the passage by the Common Coun- cil of an ordinance defining the city fire limits. The instrument provided that none but fire-proof materials should be used in the erection of buildings within the limits described-Second, Mount Vernon and Vine streets and the Mississippi River-and imposing the usual penalties for failure to be thereby governed. This action was timely, and ultimately resulted in much good to the business interests of the city, and more particularly to the holders of property within the prescribed limits. The fire was not less a warning against narrow streets, for nothing but extremely favorable circumstances and unceasing hard labor pre-


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HISTORY OF LA CROSSE COUNTY,


vented the destruction of double the amount of prop- erty that was consumed.


Among the leading sufferers by this unexpected calamity were Gordon & Loomis, Gutman, Lener & Co., Webausen & Hunt, S. T. Smith, Hart & Edwards, N. R. Smith, Daniel Bacon, Eckstorm & Co., C. Alter, C. Volner, Edwin Flint, George Farnum, Peter Burns, Bidwell & Coons, Walter Brown, Lloyd & Supplee, and Boycott, Summer, Hayes & Co. The burnt dis- triet was, in time, restored to more than its pristine elegance, but its destruction is referred to as the first calamity that ever swooped down upon La Crosse.


The fire had scarcely become part of the history of the city, when the location of county buildings by the County Board was made public. The site chosen was on the east side of La Crosse avenue between State and Main streets. This created considerable dissatis- faction with a portion of the citizens, it was claimed, and was acceptable only to those who would be bene- fited by the rise of property in the vicinity. The same can be said of the proposition to raise a fund for the erection of a court-house and jail. There was intense opposition in some quarters, and intense excitement as the result. The site was subsequently changed to its present location, and the court-house and jail were erected and stand to-day monuments to their founders, both pleasing and enduring.


As the Spring advanced, and the river, released from ice, was open to navigation, trade resumed its wonted briskness, and boats (beginning on the 1st of April with the "Fall City"), their daily trips above and below.


At this time, the speedy completion of the La Crosse & Milwaukee Railroad was hailed as an item of special importance to the people of the Upper Missis- sippi, as also to those seeking homes in Wisconsin and Minnesota. The completion and opening of this road was suggested to the merchants of La Crosse, that they direct their attention to the building up of a trade with Milwaukee. The completion of the road would have a tendency to depreciate the price of freight, and the citizens of Milwaukee would certainly consult their interests by seeking the trade of La Crosse. But these predictions were never verified, and the immense wholesale trade sought to be monopolized by Milwau- kee was diverted elsewhere.


Building this Spring, in fact throughout the year, was reasonably general, until after the commencement of the panic, when it diminished. The large piles of brick and stone awaiting the call of the artificer at. the first blush of Spring gave evidence that a large in- crease in the number of substantial buildings was in contemplation, and these tokens of prosperity were made the occasion for much congratulations. But be- yond what had been contracted for, together with buildings erected to supply those destroyed in the fire of March 11, and the stone building at the corner of Main and Front streets, little else was accomplished. The Smith Building, still standing, was completed during the Summer, and was, at that time, considered one of the finest structures in design and architecture on the Mississippi River. It is of stone, 50x104, two stories high, finished and furnished with every acces- sory convenience could suggest at the time, and was


erected by Norton R. Smith at a cost that was then considered large. As stated, it still stands, somewhat decrepit in appearance, and not comparing with the handsome edifices which have gone up since in its im- mediate vicinity. But the old building is the pioneer of its kind, and having experienced the trials and vicissitudes of pioneer life, and also participated in its subsequent triumphs, survives to-day the mark and mold of the times in which it was prominent.


There is nothing worthy of note reported as occur- ring from May to July. Between these periods, busi- ness was prosecuted advantageously ; arrivals of emi- grants were among the daily quotations, trade flour- ished, commerce was carried on briskly, buildings went up in places that were newly selected, and all possible influences contributed their quota to promote success and secure a successful pursuit of happiness. Rail- roads to and from La Crosse were in process of incuba- tion, construction and completion, while the steam- boating business, which was centering at the city, was being husbanded and sustained, as also extended, for in June, the La Crosse & Minnesota Packet Company, a home enterprise, was established, with A. W. Shep- ard, president ; E. B. Pike, vice-president; W. W. Webb, secretary, and A. T. Clinton, treasurer, and arrangements were making for active operations when monetary affairs reached such a critical condition as to preclude the extension of lines of communication involving the expenditure of money.


This was the appearance of the city on Monday night, July 6, when the ordinary current of events was violently assailed by the organization of a vigilance committee of citizens, with a view to the destruction of certain disreputable resorts that had become estab- lished in La Crosse. On the night in question, citizens to the number of between three and four hundred col- lected in the court-house square as if by general con- sent, and perfected a thorough organization. Upon the completion of this preliminary, they proceeded to the lower part of the city, where these infamous places had been located, and, after warning the inmates of their intention, set fire to the premises and burned them to the ground. From here the crowd marched to the northern part of the city, and, after destroying the fur- niture, windows and doors of a place known as the "St. Charles," set fire to that resort and burned it be- youd repairs. They next went to a small house on State street, thence to a place on Second street, below the Napoleon Hotel, but, upon promises of the inmates to leave, refrained from interference.


By this time, the doings of the self-constituted vigi- lance committee had become public property, and the excitement throughout the city of a character described as wild. The streets were thronged. The Mayor and city police and officials sought to appease the commit- tee and check the destruction of property, and it was not until the last expedients of eloquence and promise were had recourse to that the peaceful dispersion of those engaged, as well as the crowd of onlookers, was secured.


The property destroyed was valued at not less than $2,000, but it was considered by those engaged in its destruction as the only effectual way of ridding the city of the characters which then infested it. It should


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HISTORY OF NORTHERN WISCONSIN.


be said that the proceedings were conducted by some of the leading citizens, and though severe measures were adopted they were such only, it was thought, as were applicable to the situation. Everybody was said to have been opposed to mob law, or of having a ne- cessity for taking the law in hand by citizens, but the reckless character of the number of blacklegs, villains, housebreakers, thieves and rowdies of every descrip- tion, which then sought to make La Crosse their head- quarters, left no other alternative.


Soon after the conclusion of the committee labors on that evening, a meeting of citizens was convened at Barron's Hall, presided over by William Hood, at which it was resolved to organize a vigilance committee of 150 to protect the property and families of citizens. The city officials were called upon to execute the laws if they desired to prevent further trouble, in default of which the people would.


The effect of these proceedings was as varied as the people whom they affected or those who discussed them. It would be no exaggeration of the situation to assume that it was startling to all. By some it was considered unworthy the character of citizens, and in- excusable, as the law furnished a remedy commensu- rate with the imposition sought to be checked. There was no wrong, it was argued, that did not possess a legal remedy, and until all the remedies provided by law had been exhausted, there should be no resort to violence or measures in themselves not only extra- legal, but of a type similar to those it was attempted to suppress.


Another class of citizens insisted that relief could not be obtained-not because it did not exist, but be- cause the laws were recklessly administered, and not always with regard to their spirit and letter. This be- ing the case, there was no alternative but to employ such force as to the law-abiding was accessible, and compel the performance of that which the laws pro- vided should be done, but which had been deficient in its execution, because of the laxness of those whose duty it was to administer them.


Meetings continued to be held, and as threats had been launched against the persons of those who had been prominent in the movement, the greatest care was necessary to personal protection. Reprisals were also promised by those injured, and, in one or two instances, honses were set on fire. Within a fortnight after the occurrence, the barn of Elisha Whittlesey was set on fire by incendiaries, and several attempts made to burn buildings in different parts of the city on the same day. But happily the fires were extinguished, and the citi- zens, by watchful care, were enabled to avoid the damage that was attempted.


The responsibility for this state of affairs was shifted by each paper on the party represented by the other, and the warfare which followed between the editors of the respective sheets, was something terrific to witness. Both, finally, resolved themselves to the conclusion that the remedy for evils complained of, as also for mob law, was to be found at the ballot box, and the primary meetings of political parties, when candidates are made. Men of character who have the best interests of the community-as a community and not as a politi- cal faction-must see to it that this remedy was ap-


plied, and that men of character and responsibility were selected to fill public stations. And in local mat- ters, this ought to be done without regard to political tenets of any man or set of men, but with a single eye to the public good. Until it was done, mob law might be expected.


Before another year an application of the remedy recommended, was made in the election of those can- didates for city officers nominated by the Democratic party.


The material interests of the country for the devel- opment of the internal resources and communication with distant parts were mostly carried on vigorously and with gratifying results. The La Crosse & Milwau- kee road had been pushed westwardly with considera- ble progress, and a corporation which two years pre- vions was considered by many a " moonshine opera- tion," was securely upon the highway to success. The grading was commenced this year west of Portage, and it was safely predicted that before another year the cars would be running into La Crosse. The Southern Minnesota, incorporated in 1855, organized for business this year, elected a board of officers, and advertised for contracts for grading the route west of La Crescent.


Improvements continued to be made, and brick blocks were substituted for the inconvenient and con- tracted quarters erected before La Crosse became a city. They were on a scale of finish and capacity al- most equal to any east of the lakes, and were eminently adapted to the displays of stock made therein. The dwellings were also of a more modern type than any of moment previously erected, and added to the appear- ance of the city in their neatness and finish.


The schools were supported with characteristic lib- erality, and counted upon their various rosters an ag- gregate daily attendance of 500 pupils. An addition was built to the brick school-house, and its occupation was commenced in December, and the influence that was exerted upon both scholar and teacher was of the most beneficial character. The labors of the one seemed to promote the true interest of the other, to lay broad and deep a foundation upon which to rear a noble superstructure that should be as enduring as time.


The mail from Prairie du Chien to St. Paul via La Crosse was carried by M. O. Walker this year, who received $100 per day, and delivered a daily invoice of 1,200 pounds, or thereabouts, to be distributed to consignees in the "Gateway City." There was a daily four-horse stage during the Winter from Prairie du Chien, Viroqua, Winona, St. Paul, Manston, Sparta, Chatfield and Black River Falls, and nearly all the travel of the Northwest remained overnight in La Crosse.


The arrivals of boats during 1857, from that of "Sam Young," on April 1, to that of the " Envoy," on November 19, amounted to 1,569, from which it will be apparent that travel was numerous, notwith- standing the hard times.


Indeed, from the 1st of January till the coming of dark days, which arrived unexpectedly late in the Summer, all interests seemed to conspire to promote the public weal. But while they continued, the plans


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of none were realized ; those of all defaulted. Warn- ings of its effects in the East, caused by the suspen- sion of the Ohio Life and Trust Company and other moneyed corporations, preceded the advent of that foe to prosperity on the banks of the Mississippi. And while they may have occasioned speculation among reflecting citizens as to how La Crosse would weather the storm, or apprehension of the commercial portion of the city to do so, no one was found bold enough to outline the impending troubles, which reached here too late for the victims to even protect themselves :rom their violence. It did not come gradually as at other points, emigration was not checked, and the can- vas-covered wagons of pioneers were to be seen upon every highway, trundling forward to the rich prairies of the West, while the " panic " hovered above them. But the crash came at last, and as the Assyrian cohorts, it came " Like a wolf on the fold," and burst above La Crosse before the commercial world were able to check its approach or temper its ferocity. The bright dreams of wealth gave way to the actuality of want. Anticipations, bred of confidence in one's ability to "pull through," retired in the face of realities no pen can describe. There was soon less business transacted, and stores were devoted to comparative quiet, with employes cast out upon the world to wrestle with the stern necessities of life. These signs were succeeded by symptoms peculiar to a more advanced stage of the disease. Corner lots, which six months before were held at fancy prices, were scarcely worth the assess- ment of taxes. Men who had constructed air castles in the realms of the bright ideal and indulged in the wildest and most absurd speculations, fled to the wil- derness, appalled at the spectacle which by this time was rapidly approaching a climax. In October, Cra- mer, Clinton & Co., one of the oldest and most reliable of the banking houses, dissolved and proceeded to set- tle up its affairs. This was precipitated by the finan- cial epidemic then raging and the failure of their correspondents, and but aggravated the condition of affairs. Many were completely ruined, and the frag- ments of the calamity were for some years after visible upon the streets, in the hotel, at the bar, on the hust- ings and at the household hearth. Some left the city, improvements were comparatively suspended, business was destroyed for the time being, and desolation and gloom reigned where once the voice of triumph had resounded.


In the country the effects of this untoward visita- tion were equally as pronounced. Farm lands lay idle, and, in some instances, unoccupied ; farmers who har- vested crops were unable to dispose of them because of the absence of circulating medium. While these afflic- tions were abiding, there was still a silver lining to the dark cloud, and, though all were pecuniarily short as pie crust, disease and death and the horrors of starva- tion were stayed.


From 1857 to 1863 were the most discouraging years experienced in La Crosse City and county. In 1861, the breaking-out of the war revived trade for a season, and gave a temporary impetus to business in the fitting out and provisioning of volunteers. As the contest continued, the demand for supplies held by dealers, farmers and cultivators increased. At first these were


at comparatively long intervals, gradually growing in frequency, until during 1863 it seemed as if the denials and privations to which the inhabitants had been com- mitted for years were about to give way to an endless season of plenty. The crops were constantly on the move, and merchants experienced difficulty in keeping pace with the wants of their customers. Lands in- creased in value, and those which had been partially abandoned because of the excessive supply of produc- tion were restored to vigor and sown for the harvest. The city, too, began to revive under these benign in- fluences, and that better days had come, indeed, was a conclusion both gratifying and universal.


The assessment roll in the city for 1857 was-


Real estate. $595.285


Personal property. 110,000


Total $705,285


Excess over valuation of 1856. 316,979


New Year's, 1858, was said to have been a happy season in La Crosse in spite of the hard times, which were then more prominent even than the festivities of this festal occasion. Everybody seemed to enjoy them- selves in a manner appropriate to the day, and there was a marked absence of that which has since become so seemingly indispensable to its celebration. There was a slight fall of snow on New Year's Eve, which made possible sleighing, and the turnouts are described as numerous, and ranging in appearance from outré to distingué. The same can be said of the callers and hostesses. The year dawned delightfully, and the hope was indulged that its quiet beauty and almost trans- cendent loveliness of the night which followed might be the prelude to a drama from real life, in which hard times, failures, despondency and desolation would be characters unprovided for in the cast.


Many removals were made early in the year; new faces were to be seen on the thoroughfares and new names on signs depending above the pavement. The vote polled during the Fall of 1857, 690, was not con- sidered a fair criterion to adopt in estimating the pop- ulation of Western towns, particularly those which had sprung up and improved as rapidly as La Crosse. The population of the city was considered at between five and six thousand, and the advantages of La Crosse had not been, it was claimed, materially diminished by the troubles which were still in existence. All projects for the improvement of the city and affording addi- tional attractions for strangers were encouraged, old plans were revived and new plans improvised. Trade, the markets, etc., were fluctuating, but when the rail- road connection with Milwaukee and the East was com- pleted, these fluctuations would not occur. Such was the state of affairs in La Crosse January 1, 1858, and such were some of the opinions ventured thereon by optimists. The embarrassments and distresses of the previous months were the result of overdone business, which caused business men to rejoice in an imaginary and not real prosperity. Every thing thereby bore a fictitious value. Lands, products and all marketable fabrics were valued above their actual worth. Sell- ers were rich in debts due and purchasers in their abil- ity to contract debts. But reverses came on the heels of excess, as they always will to men who deal reck-


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HISTORY OF NORTHERN WISCONSIN.


lessly and live extravagantly. The lesson taught by these experiences would make men wiser and better, and the ruin that had been wrought would work out an infinite good to the general country.


From indications at the opening of Spring, it was thought that the Summer would be one of unusual prosperity. At an early season of the year, extensive and general preparations were concluded for the em- ployment of mechanical labor, and steps taken for the erection of a great many buildings. This was in part due to the low price of materials, and in part to the diminished cost of labor. As the season advanced, the markets were stocked with lumber, lots changed hands daily, passing from speculators into the hands of per- manent settlers ; contracts for building were closed, the mills started on time, and the machine shops, shin- gle factories and other mechanical branches of business which had been dormant for months, were re-opened, and infused with new enterprise and energy.


Commercial trade opened brisk with new facilities for a larger and more extended business, according to the demands of the increase of population ; confidence was gradually restored, and the wrecks of the panic were cleared away to make room for the energies of those who were not subdued by a money revulsion. There was an absence, too, of that reckless, headlong plunging for a quick, prospective wealth, but a larger and safer business was commenced to be done. It was clear that the foundations of prosperity had not been shattered, nor had the energies and enterprises of the people been strangled. In short, the citizens protested that the destiny of La Crosse was never more settled according to every indication than in the Spring of 1858. The confidence in its growth was never more strong, the hard times were past, and hopes for the fu- ture were buoyant. The old strength was renewed and additional strength attained, to concentrate the natural facilities of trade and traffic at La Crosse. With the railway communications which came this year, the city became the railway center of the Northwest, and trade was increased fourfold, and necessitated the employ- ment of additional capital.




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