USA > California > A history of California: the American period > Part 41
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The missions of San Fernando and San Borja are the next down the coast; the first has 250 Indians, and the second 400. The wine of San Fernando is excellent, and San Borja has excellent fruits; but otherwise they produce nothing of consequence. These missions, with all below, are immediately dependent on Loreto. From San Borja down to San Josef del Cabo, there is not an establishment worth notice; even Loreto, the capital, produces nothing, and none of the missions have more than fifty or sixty Indians.
San Josef might, by encouragement, become a place of considerable im- portance; it is situated in a pleasant vale, that is well watered. There are few Indians at that mission, but there and at a pueblo not far inland from it, called San Antonio, there is a considerable Spanish population; I believe about 400 or 500 souls. They have a plenty of cattle, raise a good deal of corn, make some sugar and rum but raise no wheat. Here they have silver mines, which would be productive if they had the means of working them; the pearl fishery
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is also of considerable importance: in some years they collect as much as twenty-five pounds of pearl. This part of the country is very mountainous, and tolerably well watered; it affords retreat and subsistence to an incredible number of wild cattle; they say upwards of 80,000.
The Spaniards have complete possession of the peninsula of California; but that is not the case above: there their domination is bounded by the Sierra Madre, which in no part is far removed from the coast; so that in reality they are masters of the maritime part of the country only. Beyond that range of mountains the country is remarkably fine, well watered, and covered with forests. These they have not as yet been able to penetrate, on account of their being thickly inhabited by warlike tribes of Indians. I am informed that the government have it in contemplation to establish lines of missions and garrisons from San Francisco to New Mexico, and by the country of the Colorado Indians to the same place, and by these means to complete the conquest of the country. But that is a project that does not seem likely to be very soon realized.
San Francisco, latitude 37° 47'N. longitude - W., is a fine harbour, capa- ble of receiving the largest ships, and affords plenty of wood and water. In its neighbourhood is a great plenty of timber proper for ship building, and the neighbouring establishment may afford ample supplies of provisions. This port is formed by the entrance of an immense river, never yet far explored, but it is thought to be of great extent. Its entrance is defended by a battery on which are mounted some brass eight pounders, which afford only the show of defence; and the place could make no resistance against the smallest military force; neither could its resources in provisions be easily removed out of the way of an enemy.
Monterrey is an extensive open bay, in latitude-N., and longitude - W. situated between Point Pinos and Point Ano Neuvo, lying from each other N. 72° W., and S. 28° E., 22 miles apart. It is formed by the coast falling back from the line of the two points nearly four leagues. The only part that is at all eligible for anchoring is near its south extremity, about a league within Point Pinos, where the shores form a cove that affords clear, good riding for a few vessels; and as there is always a land breeze night and morning, ships may always go out at that time. There is a miserable battery on a hill that commands the anchorage, but it is altogether inadequate to what it is intended for. Water and wood are plenty at Monterrey and the neighbouring missions are capable of furnishing abundant supplies of provi- sions. The garrison is situated immediately in the vicinity of the anchorage, where they have no works capable of affording defence.
Bernard's Bay, in latitude 38° 8' 45" N., and west longitude 123º 39' 45", is a very commodious anchorage, well sheltered against the prevailing winds; it is also protected from the southerly gales by a reef, and the holding ground is good; here is a plenty of wood and water, and the wealthy mission of San Luis is about two leagues distant. This bay is unknown to the Spaniards; it might, at a very small expense, be fortified so as to prevent a ship's anchoring there.
From Point Conception down to the mission of San Buenaventura, there is a great number of anchoring places, where wood and water may be had, and the rich missions in that neighbourhood are capable of furnishing large supplies of provisions: Indeed, this is the most agreeable as well as the most wealthy district in California.
About - miles to the eastward from Point Conception is the presideo of
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Santa Barbara, with a very smooth, commodious anchorage, in good weather; but it is greatly exposed to the southerly gales. This place, like San Francisco and Monterrey, has only the show of defence, and would fall an easy conquest to the smallest ship of war.
The next anchorage on the coast is the bay of San Pedro: this bay is very spacious, and has good anchorage and shelter from the prevailing winds, but it is entirely exposed to the southerly gales. Here there is no wood, and, without digging wells, water cannot be procured at all seasons. The missions of San Gabriel and Pueblo de los Angeles are situated, the one twelve and the other twenty-five or thirty miles from this place: both of them are capable of furnish- ing large supplies of provisions.
Directly opposite to San Pedro lies the island of Santa Catalina, on the north side of which is a small but very fine port, where ships of any burden may ride in the most perfect safety at all seasons. As it is always smooth in this port, it is peculiarly proper for careening and repairing ships. There are several springs of water in its neighbourhood, which afford a sufficient supply of that necessary article at all times, and of the best quality. The proximity of this island to all this coast, from Point Conception to San Juan Capristano, renders its port of importance, as a winter harbour, to all ships that may have anything to do there in that season.
At San Juan Capristano, there is a tolerable safe roadstead in good weather, within the reach of a four pounder of the wealthy mission of that name.
San Diego is a very fine, secure harbour, formed by an extensive arm of the sea, the entrance of which is not a cable's length wide; there is nowhere less than four fathoms going in, and within there is safe anchorage for ships of any burthen. There is a sorry battery of eight pounders at the entrance: at present it does not merit the least consideration as a fortification, but with a little expense might be made capable of defending this fine harbour. The presideo is about four miles distant from the anchorage. A considerable force would be necessary to hold this post, as a landing might be effected on the back of it, at the false port of San Diego: the entrance of this port is said to be too shoal for ships.
The bay of Todos Santos is very spacious: at the bottom of it, there is safe anchorage at all seasons. It affords a scanty supply of wood and water, and has in its neighbourhood the missions of San Thomas and San Miguel; but, as they are poor, no considerable supplies could be expected here.
The bay of San Quintin is an extensive arm of the sea, with a narrow en- trance, and difficult of access. This harbour is very secure, but affords neither wood nor water, and the missions in its neighbourhood are too poor and difficult of access to expect any considerable supplies from. Below San Quintin, there are a great number of bays, where there is safe anchorage; but, as they are destitute of wood and water, they are hardly worth describing.
Directly round Cape San Lucas there is a very commodious anchorage, called Puerta Segura, where there is very good water. The mission of San Josef is but a short distance from this place, but no considerable supplies could be expected there. There is safe anchorage directly opposite to the mission, where water is still more abundant.
In the gulf there are many fine harbours; those below Loreto generally afford water, those above rarely; and, as they offer no other resources, they are unworthy a description, except the bay de los Angeles, which is situated in latitude 29º N .: it is very spacious, and entirely locked in by a number of small
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islands, through which the channels are very bold. There is excellent anchor- age in many places round this bay, and there is also a spring of water, with an abundance of fish and clams, and other shell fish in plenty. Those advantages, though trifling in themselves, become important when the situation of this harbour is considered; it is situated on the narrowest part of the peninsula, opposite to a very commodious road on the other side, with the mission of San Borja between them, which, with its proximity to the river Colorado, where timber may probably be procured, point out this noble bay as a very important post, either for communication with, or defence against the mari- time provinces of New Spain, opposite to California.
Loreto, latitude - N., and longitude - is a place of considerable esti- mation with the Spaniards. It is the capital of Lower California. Their public magazines are kept there, and it serves as a point of communication with New Spain; its population consists of about fifty families, besides the garrison. It is a place of no resources, and is not fortified.
The gulf of California extends from cape Palmo, in latitude - N. and longitude - W., in about a north-west direction, up to the mouth of the River Colorado; from Cape Palmo over to the continent is about - leagues, and it gradually diminishes, until it comes nearly to a point at the head. On the California side, there are a great number of ports and commodious bays: few of them afford water; but fish are generally plenty and good, and in several there is an abundance of pearl oysters. On the eastern side is situated the fine fertile province of Sonora, with many rivers, but no ports for vessels of burthen, except Guimas [Guaymas], in latitude - which is large and commodious. Above Guimas the coast is barren, and affords no water; above the latter, this gulf is covered with an immense number of barren islands: the navigation is, however, good among them, and there is no danger out of sight. From October to April, the winds prevail very strong from the northward; the rest of the year they are variable, with hard southerly gales from time to time; and the eastern shore is subject to thunderstorms, which are generally of short duration. The country on the eastern side of the gulf forms the government of the internal provinces, of which Chiuaga [Chihuahua?] is the capital, situated, as near as I could learn, about fifteen days journey inland from Guimas. This country is extremely fertile, well watered, and abounds in mines of gold and silver, and has a number of pleasant flourishing towns.
A short distance above Guimas, commences the country of the Apaches, a formidable nation of Indians, that the Spaniards have not yet been able to conquer, and, above them, the Colorado tribes, equally formidable. These people possess a rich fertile country, also abounding in mines: they cultivate their lands, raise great numbers of horses and cattle, and greatly annoy the Spaniards.
At the time of the Spaniards' first coming to California, that country was very populous as before mentioned. It did not escape the penetrating eye of the Jesuits, then in the zenith of their power and influence in the catholic world, and it is probable that their ambition pointed it out to them as a favourable place to fortify themselves in, for the promotion of their vast views. However it may be, that order obtained a patent from the court of Spain to occupy the country, and civilize its numerous inhabitants. It is a curious fact, that in California, as in Paraguai, foreigners were principally employed, particularly Germans. Their success was equal to the wisdom and energy that characterized all the undertakings of that enterprising society, as, in 1745,
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there were forty-three villages or missions established below the 28th degree of latitude, where agriculture and the necessary arts were in a flourishing state: at present there is not above a dozen missions below the thirty-first parallel, and several of these do not possess above twenty Indians.
At the suppression of the Jesuits, the care of completing the conversion and civilization of the Indians of California was confided to the Dominicans, and the missionaries of that order were established in all the missions then on foot, and a commission given them to found others, as circumstances should dictate. The government of the country was new modelled on the present plan, and the missionaries received their salaries directly from the king.
In the year 1769, the court of Spain, alarmed at the progress the Russians were making on the north-west coast of America, determined to occupy Upper California, and to establish missions there for the conversion and civilization of its inhabitants. These they confided to the Franciscan order, on the same plan, and nearly the same conditions, that the Dominicans then administered the spiritual concerns of the lower division, and proceeded to the establishment of the garrisons already mentioned.
The mutual jealousies and selfish policy of the great European powers have been the causes that some of the most beautiful regions of the universe have long languished under the degrading shackles of ignorance and superstition; and the Spanish monarchy has been so long left to the quiet enjoyment of the finest part of the new world, that they have been at full liberty to extend their con- quests there in every direction, without any other obstacles than the feeble opposition of the native savages. Any of the great maritime powers that should determine to give independence to New Spain, or wrest it from the Spanish dominion, would naturally seek to establish themselves in California, from whence, as a place of arms, they might carry on their operations against that defenceless kingdom with a certainty of success. This the Spaniards have doubtless forseen, and been beforehand in occupying it, with a view of forming a barrier to those valuable possessions. The foregoing shows that what they have yet done has had a directly contrary effect. They have, at a great expense and considerable industry, removed every obstacle out of the way of an in- vading enemy; they have stocked the country with such multitudes of cattle horses, and other useful animals, that they have no longer the power to remove or destroy them; they have taught the Indians many of the useful arts, and accustomed them to agriculture and civilization; and they have spread a number of defenceless inhabitants over the country, whom they never could induce to act as enemies to those who should treat them well, by securing to them the enjoyments of liberty, property, and a free trade which would almost instantaneously quadruple the value of their actual possessions: in a word they have done every thing that could be done to render California an object worthy the attention of the great maritime powers; they have placed it in a situation to want nothing but a good government to rise rapidly to wealth and importance.
The conquest of this country would be absolutely nothing; it would fall without an effort to the most inconsiderable force; and as the greatest efforts that the Spanish government would be capable of making towards its recovery would be from the shores of New Spain, opposite the peninsula, a military post, established at the bay of Angels, and that of San Diego fortified and defended by a competent body of troops would render such an attempt ineffectual. The Spaniards have few ships or seamen in this part of the world; the arsenal of
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San Blass would be their only resource on such an occasion, and that might be very easily destroyed. But, admitting that the inactivity of the invaders should permit them to transport troops over to the peninsula, those that come from New Spain could not be very formidable, either in point of numbers or courage, and they would have to penetrate through Lower California, where they would not find even water in their march: all the other resources of that desolate country could be easily removed out of their way. They could not march round the head of the gulf: the natural obstacles to such an expedition would be very numerous; and they must besides force their way through many warlike nations of savages.
An expedition by sea to Upper California would be equally difficult for them; the bad weather they must encounter in winter, and the great length of the passage in summer, on account of the prevailing northwest winds, would render it a very precarious undertaking. In a word, it would be as easy to keep California in spite of the Spaniards, as it would be to wrest it from them in the first instance.
APPENDIX C
A FORTY-NINER IN LOWER CALIFORNIA
[THE following narrative is taken from the hitherto unpublished account of a gold seeker's expedition to California. The writer was W. C. S. Smith, who afterwards settled at Napa where he won some distinction as a newspaper editor.
The party to which Smith belonged left New York, January 15, 1849. In fifteen days they landed at Vera Cruz and crossed overland to San Blas, which they reached March 14th. Here they embarked on an old whaling vessel, long since condemned as unseaworthy, and set sail for California. The vessel touched at Mazatlan, where the already overcrowded passenger list was increased by forty or more Mexicans of the least desirable type. Poor food, lack of fresh water, and miserable accommodations led Smith and three com- panions to leave the ship when she put into the harbor of San José del Cabo and to undertake the long and extremely arduous trip overland from San José to San Diego-the full length of the Peninsula.
Smith's narrative of this Lower California expedition is particularly valuable because of the picture he draws of the hardships the goldseekers had to endure and the descriptions he gives of the Lower California missions. No attempt has been made to correct his spelling of Spanish names.]
San José is a village of about 500 inhabitants, situated on a narrow flat, formed by the mouth of a small stream, facing the ocean to the south. It is not much of a harbor. While we were there it was calm weather, but the combing waves were always rolling in upon the sand beach 8 or 10 feet high and it required skill and practice to make a safe landing or launch. One boatload from our ship was capsized and rolled over and over. A high steep and barren mountain overhangs the town on the north. On each side of the stream, as high as water can be led for irrigation, are growing oranges, ban- nanas, lemons, plantains, sugar cane and other tropical fruits. The people here make sugar in small brown cakes and eat it freely. They call it "panoche." During the war the town was occupied by a detachment from Stevenson's regiment. Two field pieces left by them were standing in the courtyard of the old mission. The place appears to be going to decay. We were treated well by the people. We got into a row with a Mexican army captain about a mule we were both trying to buy. He first threatened us with his pistols, but as we did not scare he appealed the case to the Alcalde, who, to our surprise gave the mules to us. The captain was bound on the same route, and when he found us proof against both bravado and law, was very willing to be friends. After two days bargaining we picked up, in addition to our pack mule, four spare bony horses, quite different from the sleek "caballos" we expected to find. About 12 M. April 10 [1849] we got off.
We hired an "hombre" to teach us the mysteries of packing a mule and to show us one league on the road to Todos Santos, at which place the old guide
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said there were "many good Bestias for sale cheap." So we punched up old Joe-as we had christened the venerable animal that carried our scanty baggage-bade goodbye to the guide, spurred a trot out of our hacks and pushed along in good spirits. From this place I kept an imperfect journal which I shall copy verbatim, adding as memory serves, such remembrances as may be interesting to those for whom these things are recorded. I have confi- dences in their respect and affection, or would not risk their thinking my narrations "travelers tales."
April 10th-Left San José at 11 A. M. Country wild and rugged. Horses surefooted. Camped at sundown in the mountains, by a pretty stream. Scenery wild and romantic. I am thinking of some who are far away who will not forget me. We are in good spirits. This undertaking may be unwise, but it has the charm of novelty. 8 leagues. God prosper us! I well remember this first camp in a little mountain valley under a large live oak tree. I was the only one who understood camp life, and was by acclamation installed chief cook. I got us a supper of jerkie fried on the coals and coffee, which the boys pronounced first rate. We all ate with perfect gusto. Nye remarked, "Those poor fellows at sea, how I pity them." Even old Miller got up a grim smile. We all joined in singing "Old Virginia" and "I'm bound for California" till the rocks rang again, then rolled up in our blankets quite happy.
11th-Another day among the mountains. Path difficult. Country wild and picturesque. Well watered. Horned frogs and scorpions in plenty. Camped by a stream. 10 leagues.
We were under the impression here that we should soon get out of the mountains into a beautiful level, champaign country, abounding in horses, cattle, etc., little thinking we were leaving behind us the only tolerable region between Cape San Lucas and San Diego.
12th-Country improving. 5 leagues by the sea shore. Todos Santos at 4 o'clock, P. M. An oasis. People intelligent and pleasant, had much curios- ity at meeting Americans and to know where we were going. A large mission building mostly in ruins. A relic of the Jesuits. 12 leagues. As we rode down from the mountains the wind was blowing fresh off the sea and the breakers coming in ten feet high. We galloped along the hard smooth beach in great glee. The shore was strewn with quantities of rare and most beautiful shells. We gathered a great many but did not carry them many days. We saw here for the first time heaped in reefs a singular plant or animal, which we found all along the coast. It was a hollow tube from one to four inches in diameter and 100 or more feet in length, with near one end an oval cylinder of perhaps the size of a half barrel. The substance was like dark rubber and smelled like flesh. Todos Santos was the prettiest and most fruitful place we saw in the "Abajo " (Lower California is so called in distinction from the country above San Diego which is called the "Alta"). There were perhaps 1000 acres in a high state of cultivation. Irrigated by a small river of sweet water which was diverted into hundreds of small channels all finally sinking into the sand near the sea shore. About where the water sank, and on each side of the cultivated land were growing many tall Drascenia palms and dense brakes of common cane. This was the most flourishing establishment of the Jesuits on the Peninsula, one of the few producing a surplus of provisions-which accounts for it being still occupied.
The mission has been suppressed seventy years, and was not transferred to the Franciscans as many others were. We purchased here one good horse and
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a mule. The last the most beautiful animal of the kind I have ever seen. She cost us fifty dollars-an immense price when five mules are sold for twenty. We bought her from the Padre. She was his saddle horse. We prized our little beauty, "Jul" as we called her, highly.
13th-Left Todos Santos at 12 o'clock M. Trail along the sea side. I shot three geese and a large strange bird. Lost our way among the sand hills and camped after dark without water or grass. (We thought that night it was pretty hard times.) After a fruitless search for water or some indication of the lost trail, darkness compelled us to throw ourselves down on a sandy plain, literally covered with thorny cactus-unable to eat from thirst, we turned in supperless. This taught us that water might be an uncertain commodity and we did not forget the lesson.
14th-A hard day for man and beast. Started early, rode without food or drink until 2 P. M., found a pond of brackish water. Horrid stuff. The horses would not drink. We made some coffee but it was not good. Pushed on till dark to a little deserted brush shanty where we found a small pool of repulsive bitter water. This day we had suffered much. (We did not know what suffering was yet.) The road good along the sea. This is a desert in reality, about 25 leagues from Todos Santos. Early in the day we found growing by a salt pond several clumps of tomato plants bearing fruit about the size of peas. They tasted grateful to our parched mouths. We thought they must be indigenous. That afternoon old Joe made an estampede. It was a way he had when the trail or anything did not suit him. Nye chased him around among the cactus for an hour, perfectly furious with the old villain. Despite our trouble we could not help laughing at the old rascal's maneuvers and dodges. Our camp was a sorry place. Fare-dry jerked beef and hard bread solo.
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