USA > California > A history of California: the American period > Part 43
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12th-Sunday. At three P. M. yesterday we left the camp by the stream and left with regret. We had suffered so much from want of water we did not like to go away from this sweet spring. The horses' feet were so sore we could scarcely force them over the stones and we were compelled to walk. For several hours we wound up a steep mountain, several thousand feet. The
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Gulf Islands and opposite coast in full view. Before us rose peak upon peak of bare burnt rocks. The scene altogether barren and forbidding. One might well think there was a curse resting upon this region, this perfection of eternal desolation. In the whole expanse not a living thing save the never failing cactus, which itself is a curse in many forms. The ascent was difficult and the descent was equally painful. One barranca succeeding another. Night found us in a deep, dark gorge with not a star visible. Thirsty and without water we laid down on the rocks, supperless. When we left the spring we filled Nye's rubber pillow in addition to our leather water bottles, but somehow it was all gone. Water! Water !! what will one not give for it under such cir- cumstances. We broke up this morning before daybreak and following down the ravine reached this little mission of Santa Gertrude. We asked to buy food, but as usual "No hay nada." We compelled them to give us some beans and barley bread. What once was the Mission garden is now a marshy cane- brake. We pulled down the wall and turned our horses in there. This morning we left a horse to die. Poor progress, only 36 leagues in five days. At this rate we will be all summer reaching San Francisco. For the next three days there is an herb poisonous to animals. To guard against it we took a guide to San Borghia. In the old mission are a number of Catholic paintings and some gold or gilded ornaments. Our clothes are much dilapidated. If our friends could but see us they would think we suffered intolerably, while in fact we are completely hardened and try to think of nothing but getting out of this predicament. Today I observed 12 species of cactus (confound them all!). Noticed yesterday on the mountain two new singular varieties. One like a large round bottom basket inverted, thick-set with spikes 6 inches long but bearing magnificent crimson flowers. There were two Indian families here. They had several animals, one a Jackass, a much hardier animal than a horse or a mule. We wanted him to pack water and offered them treble his value but they would not sell him. So we paid them a fair price and to use Nye's language "Annexed" him and at first called him "Texas," but afterwards "Paul" after a picture in the mission.
18th-On Monday at 3 A. M. we left Santa Gertrude and by moonlight proceeded down the Pacific slope over rock and stone. About 10 A. M. the trail turned and again began to ascend the dividing ridge. We noticed that the blue volcanic trap rock and black obsidian had changed to granite and stratified. The first time we had met with primitive rock. Reached the summit at noon. We had made a liberal advance payment for our Jackass and here where we would first need him he gave us the slip. So we descended alone into what was to us as a valley of death. Our apprehensions were kept alive by seeing frequently skeletons and bones of horses. After four days struggling through the mountains, losing another horse and enduring hunger and thirst we arrived at this place, San Francisco Borghia. Entirely out of provisions and nearly famished. Last night we pounded an old piece of raw- hide and boiled it for soup. This is a poor place to recruit. There is but one family of five Indians. They are living on Mescal roots. We cannot eat it. It is for us like Castor oil. All we can get from them to eat is green peas and beans. They have a small patch of barley, not quite ripe. The women are drying the plucked heads in earthern ollas over a fire, shelling and pounding the grain to prepare us a small stock of pinole for the road. There are some small rabbits about the ruins. Nye and Van are watching to shoot them. I think we can keep soul and body together until we reach Rosano, 11 days
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hence-where they say there is meat. We have taken possession of the room in a massive old ruin, our fire is built on the paved floor of pieces of broken down windows, shutters and doors. These doors and shutters are curios. They are some four inches thick and all made of small pieces of very hard wood, ingeniously dove-tailed together. We wonder where the Padres got this wood, and how and by whom all this work was done. There is something very impressive about these old solid buildings. We keep a pot of peas con- stantly boiling-trying to fill ourselves, but they do not give much strength without salt or fat. We are altered in feeling as in appearance but yet try to keep up our spirits. 46 leagues from Santa Rosana.
26th-My journal is sadly neglected. It gives me no pleasure. It is only a monotonous record of suffering and disaster. We made San Fernando this morning in eight days. 62 leagues from San Borghia. Soon after we left San Borghia we were overtaken and passed by our San José Captain-an old Rosano man with a train and a party of Mexicans all bound for the "Alta." The two latter parties had come from Guaymas by the way of Loreto. They were all better equipped and left us. The road and country have been notably execrable even for this horrid land. Hot sandy plains, stony mountains, scarcity of water and food, barefooted men and sorefooted horses make up a catalogue of trouble. One mule made a dead set, would go no further. We shot her to save a lingering death. Our fare has been a small measured portion of barley pinole and a little tallow, bought by much coaxing from the old Rosano man, also an eagle which I was fortunate to shoot. We made soup of him, he was too tough to eat. Three nights ago after crossing the worst mountains of the whole route, we camped near the ruins of the mission of Santa Maria, in view of and near the Gulf. We could not imagine why the Padres ever built a house in that barren and uninhabitated place. So barren that there was no sign for many miles on either side of any one having lived there. Save the little spring there was no inducement. It showed strongly the value of water in such a thirsty land. Now we are once more on the Pacific Slope. We have crossed the dividing ridge six times from San Ignacio and hope to and must procure some fresh animals or go afoot. As it is we walk nearly all the way and could get along faster without the horses but we can't carry water, and have no shoes. This old ruin is a miserable place. There are four root eating Indians living in a corner of the house where they have patched the fallen roof with cane leaves. They have preserved supersti- tiously some old defaced images and pictures.
In this time of trouble I think often of home and friends far away. Perhaps it would have been better for me had I not left them. I am glad they know nothing of this situation. Our endurance is now near an end but our courage rises against difficulties. We have more confidence in the future knowing what we have already overcome. San Francisco is our watch-word and out of this darkness the Alta still looms up like a star of hope.
(The last two entries need no supplement. They are enough alone without comment but I must here say, that in the worst time our scanty food and water were always divided impartially and that we constantly strove to help and encourage each other. Nye was a hero. In every strait he acted with noble courage and self denial.) From here there is an interior of my notes which I will fill from recollection. Three days more through a desert with little to live on but Faith brought us to Rosario. On the road we shot two worn out horses to save them from starvation. Our cavalcade that entered
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the village was rather sorry. For weeks our fare had been slim and this in addition to walking over sharp flints with no protection to our feet but slips of rawhide, had reduced our strength exceedingly. So it was with satisfaction we saw hanging to a tree parts of a newly slaughtered beef. We soon in- vested a large part of our capital in a huge piece and camping at the first con- venient place, commenced broiling and eating until we were gorged, as a consequence, in an hour's time every one was very sick. We remained three days resting and recruiting with plenty of food and water and grass. Here we again met with trees. Live oak and sycamore. We exchanged several worn out horses and some blankets for a good horse and another don- key-and once more were all mounted. My caballo being the aforesaid donkey. From Rosario the country improved gradually, and we always had enough to eat and found water and grass every day. The most of the way the trail led along the coast. One day we were compelled to make a detour from the coast to avoid the odor of a huge stranded and decaying whale. To our disgust 100 or more wild Indians were on or around tearing off and devouring the putrid flesh or rolling on the sands and howling like coyotes as if in pain. It was surprising to notice the great quantity of whale skeletons and scattered bones everywhere along the beach. The wild Indians about here are nearer brute beasts than anything we had seen or imagined in human form. They appeared to have no houses and live around like wolves or jackrabbits. We were told at Rosario to be on guard at night as they have bows and would creep near camp and shoot our horses with poisoned arrows to get their flesh to eat. Accordingly we were careful where we camped and kept watch by turns. We passed several small valleys and brooks and five or six missions in ruins and deserted, but every day came to one or more ranchos of a better kind than we had seen. At some of these we were treated kindly, at others they would neither give or sell to us. At one place "Ensenada" there was an abundance of corn, beans and beef. We were out of food and tried to buy, but the swarthy proprietor ordered us away with insulting words. So we just quietly took what we needed and threw down to him in money a fair price for the food. We travelled early and late and as fast as possible. We felt sure that could we reach San Diego our countrymen would relieve us.
June 11th-San Diego-Once more in the dominion of the Stars and Stripes. Never did I feel such a thrill as when yesterday we suddenly hove in sight of the Star Spangled banner and knew that now we were under the protection of the flag of our beloved country. Impulsively we gave cheer upon cheer. Once again upon American soil. Out of that infernal Mexico. Looking back the past is like a horrid dream. My last entry was at San Fernando, since then I have not had spirit to write-or any desire to keep a record.
APPENDIX D
RICHARD KERN'S MANUSCRIPT REPORT OF 1853 ON THE OVERLAND TRANS- CONTINENTAL ROUTES EXPLORED BY HIM AND THE BEST ROUTE FOR A RAILROAD TO THE PACIFIC COAST AS SUBMITTED TO SENATOR GWINN [SIC] OF CALIFORNIA 1
Washington 10th Jany. 1853.
Dear Sir:
In answer to yours of the 1st inst. asking for any information I may possess regarding the shortest and most practicable route for the main trunk of a Rail Road from the western frontier to the Pacific Ocean, I respectfully offer the following notes and accompanying map for your consideration.
The route from the frontier, say near the boundary of Missouri and Arkan- sas, to the Valley of the Rio Grande, New Mexico, and thence to the valley of the San Joaquin, Cal., by what is called Walkers route, presents in my opinion fewer obstacles and more facilities than any other .- Its principal advantages are its directness, following mostly the 35th parallel of latitude, near which are the prominent points of Memphis, Albuquerque, Zuñi and Walkers pass, in the Sierra Nevada. Its freedom from obstruction by snow-its easy passage through the Rocky Mountains, Zuñi Mountains and Sierra Nevada- and its location through a country already settled in a more or less degree as far the 110 meridian-west from Greenwich, and where the necessary material and labor can be obtained-and only needing an outlet to develop its various resources-Its greatest obstacle is the uninhabitable deserts to be crossed between the Little Colorado river and Sierra Nevada, but even these are less formidable than on any other route.
The first section of the route, between the frontier and the Rio Grande presents no difficulty if the valley of that river be entered at the town of Albuquerque, by way of Anton Chico. At this point the main chain of the Rocky Mountains loses its continuity, being broken into small and detached masses or clumps, between which are gaps of easy access,-an excellent wagon road joining the two towns above named, passes through one of these.
To attain this point, either the Arkansas or Canadian River can be fol- lowed-The former presents fewer objections as a site, being perhaps the best natural road in the world, but, in a measure devoid of the necessary material for the purposes of construction, the only timber of any amount in its im- mediate vicinity being cotton-wood which is utterly worthless except for fuel. Besides its course involves a large and unnecessary detour to the north.
The following extract from the Report of Lt. Simpson Topg. Engrs., an officer of careful and diligent observation, of a reconnaissance in 1849, following the south side of the Canadian, throws much and valuable light on its practi- cability and advantages as a route for a Rail Road.
1 A hitherto unpublished manu-
script in the Sutter Papers of the
Henry E. Huntington Library and Art Gallery, San Gabriel, California.
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"The route from Santa Fe on the south side of the Canadian river-I speak now of the general, not the particular route travelled-is, in my opinion, practicable for the location of a railroad; and the line of its location should be, in my judgment, in order to the obtainment of the best grade, generally on the first riparian bend of the river-I mean of the Canadian river.
The advantages to be derived from this route, as one of location for the great national highway, are its comparative freedom from obstructions caused by snow; its passage for 275 miles through a region mostly of prairie and woodland character, this region thus furnishing the timber necessary for the work; its passage through the Indian country adjoining the State of Arkansas, where coal abounds; its passage through a country capable of affording all the requisite stone material and the necessary supply of water; its line of location being entirely between and parallel to, and never crossing, the two only great rivers of the region of country traversed. These are, in the main, the advantages which this great route possesses."
The reasons for entering the valley of the Rio Grande at Albuquerque, by way of Anton Chico, are the ease with which the Rocky mountains can be passed through, and the absence of difficulty in ascending the dividing ridge between the waters of the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean-the Rocky Moun- tains to the north of this as far as the Arkansas River, presenting an impassable barrier-Besides it must necessarily develop the valley of the Rio Pecos, one of the most fertile in New Meixco-To pass much farther south the famous Llano Estacado, or staked plain, and a country broken into cañons and rugged mesas interpose.
The average grade is almost nothing-the difference of elevation between the western boundary of Missouri and Anton Chico is about 5000 feet, and the distance to be traveled about 700 miles-giving an average ascending grade of 7 1/7 feet to the mile-from Anton Chico to Albuquerque, is about 100 miles, and difference of elevation about 1000 feet. This is the only part of this section of the road where any obstacle is apprehended, but it has long been traveled with loaded wagons, and but little labor will be required to make it a good route for a Rail Road. From Albuquerque north to near Embuda, and south to Valverde near the Jornada del Muerto, extends the valley of the Rio Grande, the largest and most fertile in New Mexico, studded with towns and ranches, the greater part being under cultivation, and the extremities of easy access.
Sante Fé, except that it is the capital of the territory, presents no claims worth a notice. It is more difficult of approach from the east, and situated as it is, upon the bank of a thread of water, hardly to be designated a stream, it cannot possibly derive any value from the country adjoining it-Besides to reach the Rio Grande by this route, a descent of some 1800 feet in forty-five miles is to be overcome.
The next section of the road is from Albuquerque to the Big Colorado by what is called Walkers Route, and the first object here to be attained is over- coming the mesa or table land on the western side of the Rio Grande .- Two ways present themselves .- The first is to follow the usually traveled road to Zuñi, which starts from the village of Atrisco, nearly opposite Albuquerque, and the other is to ascend the valley of the Rio Grande to the mouth of the Jémez River, and ascend the latter as far as the Mexican town of San Ysidro. This is preferable, on account of its gradual ascent, and the narrowness of the Rio Grande at the point where the Jémez River enters it-affording no
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obstacle to its being bridged, the Spaniards having done so at the Indian village of San Felipe, some 10 miles above this place, when Pike was in the country in 1807.
The Jémez River should be left at San Ysidro, and following the road by the soda springs, an excellent pass through the mesas, and level road is found to the divide between the waters of the Rio Grande and the San Juan, an affluent of the Big Colorado. From here, according to information, there is no doubt a road can be found to the Ojo del Oso (a large spring with abundant pine timber near), situated in the depression between the Zuñi and Chuska mountains.
An Exploration with the view of opening a wagon road from Fort Defiance to the Ojo del Gallo, by the Ojo del Oso, is either made or being made by Maj. Kendrick, U. S. A.
To ascend the mesa opposite Albuquerque by the Zuñi road (the one first alluded to), a heavier grade and more labor would be required. Once on the summit and a northerly detour is necessary to avoid the heavy hills and sand in the vicinity of the Rio Puerco. Beyond the Rio Puerco, the road passes by the Indian town of Laguna, (and some 15 miles to the north of which are several Mexican settlements), following up the bed of the San José to near the foot of the Zuñi mountains in longitude about 108º 20' west from Greenwich .- These mountains extend from the Rio Grande nearly opposite the Jornada del Muerto, to about latitude 35° 30', where they gradually give out, forming the southern boundary of a small valley in which is situated the Ojo del Oso- the northern side of this valley is made by the Chuska mountains which continue in a northerly direction to the Rio San Juan, the upper part of the range being called the Tunecha.
There are four passes through these different ranges-the upper is the one through which Col. J. M. Washington passed in 1849 whilst making an expedi- tion into the Navajo country and bears his name-this is perfectly impractical- ble even for wagons-The next is at the Ojo del Oso, and from all accounts is capable of being made into a good road. The third is called the Zuñi pass, and is the same Col. Washington passed through on his return. It is steep and difficult, and impracticable for a Rail Road. The fourth and most southerly one is on the Camina [sic] del Obispo, passing by the Ojo de la Jarra. This presents few or no obstacles, the ascent on either side being very gradual, and a careful examination will demonstrate its practicable [sic] All these passes, except the Ojo del Oso, I have been through and can speak from personal observation.
From the western base of these mountains to the Indian village of Zuñi in longitude 109° west of Greenwich, there is no difficulty-and from here to the Big Colorado are two routes, joining on the Little Colorado at the point marked Cascadc. The first is to follow the course of the Zuñi River until it debouches into the Little Colorado, then follow this stream to the Cascade- Some little bridging would be required, as the river is narrow and material ample, this element is of but secondary consideration. The valley of the Little Colorado, is in places furnished with an abundance of cotton-wood and cedar, and is susceptible of being largely cultivated.
The other route is to follow the usual wagon road to Fort Defiance, as far as a small stream called the Calites, thence striking west through the Moqui villages, and joining the first road at the Cascade on the Little Colorado.
The following extract from a latter just received from Maj. E. Backus, 3rd U. S. Infy. and recently in command of Fort Defiance, will from the well known
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and reliable character of the author, help to confirm you in the belief of the practicability of the route I have marked out-
"The distance from Fort Defiance, by a careful estimation, is about ninety miles due west to the first village of Moqui-and about 120 miles to the 7th village. No road has been opened between the two points. Lt. Schroeder 3rd Infy. made a reconnaissance of the route, by my order, with the view of opening a wagon road, and he found the route practicable, and reported that a road could be readily opened, with a few laborers-that it would require but little more work than was requisite at intervals, to cut away the timber. The Moqui Indians raise corn and wheat, and have usually a large surplus of corn. They brought it through to Fort Defiance, upon mules and burros for a mar- ket. The seven villages are estimated by Dr. Tenbroeck, who accompanied Lt. Schroeder, to contain about 10,000 souls. As they are habitually hard laborers, I am not certain that they cannot be advantageously employed as laborers, upon any road, to be constructed. The Moquis are said to have produced much larger crops, the last season than usual. I have reason to believe such is the fact, because the Zuñians, have quadrupled their fields. Lt. Schroeder and myself, estimated their fields of corn and wheat, to cover 10,000 acres, when we passed them, in August last. I think the Moquis cultivate more ground habitually, than the Zuñians."
"Fort Defiance, is hardly on the route for a road to the Pacific. My im- pression is, it should follow the road from Zuñi to Fort Defiance, as far as Calites, 23 miles below Fort Defiance, and thence proceed direct to Moqui- The Indians say, this is the best and shortest route, and has the most water upon it. There is an abundance of timber (pine) and stone, between Zuñi and Moqui, and a large bed of semi-bituminous coal, twelve miles from Zuñi on this road. There is but little snow on this route during the winter. In 1852 I do not think it exceeded six inches, while forty miles to the north of Fort Defiance, it was four or five feet deep."
"There is much broken and hilly ground between Zuñi and Moqui but it is not in any respect so formidable as the route over which the Pennsylvania road passes, east of Pittsburgh. Water is abundant, in places, but at intervals of ten, fifteen or twenty miles at times."
"I know nothing of the Ojo del Oso, except from the Indians and traders. It has a good supply of water, and is surrounded by timber-Maj. Kendrick is now about to open a wagon road from the Ojo del Gallo, to the Ojo del Oso, and thence to Fort Defiance. It will shorten the road about 40 miles, by estimation."
"My impression is that no very formidable obstacles to a Rail Road, will be found between the Rio Grand & Little Colorado, west of Moqui .- The route is well worth a minute examination, and in my opinion presents fewer ob- stacles than any other."
From the Little Colorado to Walkers pass in the Sierra Nevada, two ways present themselves. The first is to leave that river some 30 or 40 miles below the cascade, and striking out nearly west to the Yampais Creek, or Sandy of Walker, follow it to its mouth, which is opposite that of the Rio Virgen, and just below the termination of the big canon. Crossing the Big Colorado at this point, the Virgen is followed up as far as Muddy Creek, where the bed of the latter becomes the route, to the Vegas de Santa Clara, on the Spanish Trail.
The second route is to leave the Little Colorado near the same spot, travel
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in a westerly direction for about 40 miles, then turn nearly S. W. until the Bill Williams' Fork is met with, some distance from its head .- The course of this stream should be followed until an opportunity offers of reaching the Big Colorado nearly opposite the mouth of the Mojave, which can be followed to the Spanish Trail. From this point to Walkers pass is a level plain, pre- senting no obstacles beyond the scarcity of wood and water. By this route, the base of the San Francisco and Bill Williams mountains are hugged, thus affording an abundance of pine & cedar timber.
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