USA > California > Sonoma County > An illustrated history of Sonoma County, California. Containing a history of the county of Sonoma from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time > Part 16
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
story 19 feet, and comprises business and ju- dicial apartments for the entire county govern- ment. The approaches to the first story of the building are granite staircases and steps 24 feet in width; these land in porticoes laid in Mosaic. Then come the grand entrances into the corri- dors 14 by 112 feet.
On the left are the clerk's offices. one 21 feet 3 inches by 53 feet 8 inches; the other 20 feet 7 inches by 29 feet 8 inches, connected together by an archway; next the supervisors, room 21 feet 3 inches by 38 feet, also connected with clerk's room; on the right the recorder's offices, 21 feet 3 inches by 73 feet 9 inches, and 20 feet 7 inches by 29 feet 3 inches; the Super- intendent of public instruction's room, 18 feet 6 inches by 21 fect 3 inches; the grand jury room, 21 feet 6 inches by 21 feet 3 inches; stair- case leading to court-rooms and offices above, and also to the basement. In the upper story are two Superior Court rooms, one 38 feet 4 inches by 59 feet 4 inches, and one 36 feet 8 inches by 54 feet, two judges' chambers 14 feet 10 inches by 20 feet 11 inches, two jury rooms 14 feet 10 inches by 20 feet 11 inches, each connected with the court-rooms; district attorney's rooms 21 feet 7 inches by 27 feet 2 inches, and 15 feet 11 inches by 19 feet 6 inches; hall and stairways 19 by 43 feet; janitor's rooms and stairway leading to dome 15 feet 9 inches by 19 feet; this staircase leads to attic, thence a spiral stair- case to upper seetion of dome: the dome is 127 feet high from the grade line of Fourth street; in the basement is the sheriff's rooms 21 feet 3 inches by 35 feet 5 inches, one 14 feet 6 inches by 27 feet, and store room 19 by 21 feet 3 inches; treasurer's office 23 feet 6 inches hy 21 feet 3 inches, containing a fire and burglar proof vault, 7 by 8 feet; surveyor's rooms 17 feet 2 inches by 21 feet 3 inches, and 13 feet 6 inches by 21 fect 3 inches; W. C. 21 by 20 feet 7
inches; boiler room below, same size; the jail 38 by 58 feet 8 inches, with 12 iron cells 7 by 7 feet, and three 5 by 7 feet; said jail is lined with plate iron. In the construction of this editice, it required eight hundred thousand (800,000) brick, two hundred and forty (240) tous of dressed granite; one hundred and thirty- seven (137) tons of wrought iron, thirty (30) tons of cast iron, three thousand nine hundred and twenty-two (3,922) feet of corrugated iron --- besides lumber and other materials. The founda -. tions alone required eight hundred and fifty (850) pereh of basalt roek.
The county is subdivided into fourteen town- ships as follows: Analy, Bodega, Cloverdale, Knight's Valley, Mendocino, Ocean, Petaluma, Redwood, Russian River, Washington, Salt Point, Santa Rosa, Sonoma and Vallejo. The county government is managed by a Board of Supervisors comprised of five members, cach representing a supervisorial district.
The county is at present represented in the Senate by E. C. Hinshaw; and in the Assembly by J. W. Ragsdale, Robert Howe, and Phelix Mulgren.
The following are the present county officers: J. G. Pressley and S. K. Dougherty, Judges Superior Court; George Hall, Court Reporter: John Goss, Court Commissioner; Albert G. Burnett, District Attorney; L. W. Juilliard, County Clerk; W. F. Wines, Deputy Clerk: W. S. Coulter, Deputy: E. P. Colgan, Sheriff; J. D. Barnett, Under-Sheriff; M. V. Vander- hoof and Il. Groshong, Deputies; P. N. Stofen, Treasurer; A. P. Moore, Auditor and Recorder; 1. P'. Mulligan, Deputy-Auditor and Recorder; Mrs. F. McG. Martin, Sup't. Public Schools; W. Longmore, Assessor; P. R. Davis, Surveyor; 1. Tivnen, Coronor and Public Administrator; Benj. Clark, G. F. Allen, M. K. Cady, G. V. Davis, F. A. Smith, Board of Supervisors.
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
LOCATION AND TOPOGRAPHY.
CHAPTER X.
BOUNDARIES OF SONOMA COUNTY HIER MOUNTAIN RANGES FORESTS AND VALLEYS.
EOGRAPHICALLY considered, Sonoma County occupies one of the most favored positions of any county in the State. Her southern limb rests upon San Pablo Bay. the connecting link between the Straits of Carquinez and the Bay of San Francisco. Reaching in- land there are two tidal streams, the Petaluma Creek and Sonoma Creek, the former being nav- igable to steam and sailing eratts a distance up from the bay of twelve miles, and the latter a distance of about seven miles. These arteries of water transportation are of inealenlable value to the agrieulturists and dairymen of the sur- rounding country, insuring to them for all time to come cheap transportation of their products to San Francisco, the great metropolis of the Pacific coast, that is only distant from the south- ern limits of the county about twenty miles. Along these tidal streams are vast areas of marsh land, mueh of which has already, and all of which in time, will be reclaimed and brought in subjection to profitable cultivation. The meanderings of Petaluma Creek northward from San Pablo Bay to within four miles of Petaluma is the boundary between Sonoma and Marin counties, where the boundary line leaves tidal salt water and follows the serpentine course of the San Antonio Creek northward about nine
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miles, to the Lagoona San Antonio (onee a tule marsh but now drained and under cultivation), and thence in a direct line to the head of the Estero Americano, near Valley Ford, a tidal stream, that tending westerly, debouches in the Pacific Ocean about six miles distant from the latter place. From this point to the month of the Gualala River, a distance of about thirty miles, Sonoma County has for her boundary the broad Pacitic. The boundary between Sonoma and Mendocino counties commences at the month of the Gualala River and following its meander- ings about two miles to a point just above the confluence of South Gualala, takes a straight line easterly over the mountains, about twenty- four miles to the summit of Redwood Mountain. where. with a slight angle, but with a still easterly deflection, the line continues on and across the Russian River canon at a point four miles northward from Cloverdale, and in a straight line about twelve miles to the Lake County line on the sunnnit of the Maeuway Mountains. From this point, and at alnost right angles, the line of boundary between Sonoma County and Lake and Napa counties it runs south in a straight line about Forty-eight miles to the intersection of the boundary line between Napa and Solano counties; and from
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
thence the boundary between Sonoma and Solano counties runs westerly. abont six miles, to San Pablo Bay, the place of beginning.
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It will thus be seen that Marin County, with a broad base resting on the bays of San Fran- eiseo and San Pablo, lays wedge-shaped between Sonoma County and the Pacific Ocean, its north- ern and narrow end terminating at the Estero AAmericano, very near the middle of the western boundary of Sonoma. According to Bower's map of Sonoma County, which we believe to be substantially correct, it is seventy miles in a straight line from the extreme sontherly point of Sonoma County, on San Pablo Bay, to the Mendocino County line at the mouth of the (inalala River, and its breadth gradually in- ereases from about twenty miles at Petaluma, to about thirty-five miles, taking Cloverdale as the base of a straight line across. The fore- going is a correct statement of the present legal geographieal boundaries of Sonoma County. Of course, like most newly organized communi- ties, she had contests over disputed territorial jurisdiction, mention of which properly belongs to the general history, in the chronological order in which they occurred.
Sonoma Connty has an area of 1,550 square miles, or abont 992,000 acres, and ranks among counties in the State in point of territorial seope as seventh in magnitude. Within her borders could be placed some of the principalities of Europe, and even, at least, one of the older States of the Union, would find her boundaries a loose-fitting garment. A bird's-eye view of her topography will reveal the secret of that wonderful progress and prosperity which has placed her in the front rank among the counties of the State; for where in the wide world is presented in the same scope of territory so varied and diversified a medley of soil, elimate, seenery, and exhibitions of handiwork from Nature's laboratory as is to be found here?
As stated at the outset, the southern ex- tremity of Sonoma County rests upon the northern shore of San Pablo Bay. At this ex- treme point a line drawn straight across from
the Marin County to the Napa County line would be about twelve miles in length, and most of the distance would be aeross marsh land, subject to overflow by spring tides. Radi- ating from this focal point are two chains of mountains'and one chain of hills. The Macuway Mountains, that extending northward form the boundary between Napa and Sonoma valleys, inland about thirty miles reach their crowning glory in Mt. St. Helena, in Napa County, with an altitude of 4,343 feet above sea level, and thence onward. forming the eastern background to Santa Rosa and Russian River valleys, hold- ing in its embrace the far-famed Geyser Springs of Sonoma County, where its greatest elevation is Sulphur Peak, with an altitude of 3,470 feet.
The Sonoma Mountains take their rise near San Pablo in the shape of smooth, grassy hills, but with increasing ruggedness to the north - ward, until at a point nearly east of, and about seven miles distant from l'etalnma, they reach a height of 2,306 feet. From that point they gradually shade off to the lower levels and break into a jumble of hills on the edge of the Santa Rosa plains just south of Santa Rosa.
The range of hills referred to have no specific geographical name. They commenee near the confinenee of the San Anton and Petaluma ereeks and running northward form the divide between the two valleys of like names. They do not rise to the diginity of mountains, and to the northward of Petaluma branching off in different directions form the southern eurb of Two Rock Valley -- the right wing ending in the undulating hills that mark the boundary between Petaluma and Santa Rosa Valleys and the left skirting Tomales Valley, Marin County, until lost in the sand dunes around Tomales Bay.
We have thus far bounded the valleys of the lower seetion of the county, and limned the rugged eastern back-ground to the Santa Rosa and Russian River valleys and now we ap- proach the topography of a seetion of the county most difficult to describe, and yet it is a territory every part of which passed under our
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
vision more than thirty years ago. It is bounded on the east by the Santa Rosa Valley. on the north by Russian River, on the west by the ocean and on the south by the Marin County line. and the hills between Petaluma and Two Rock Valley. Compassed in this dis- triet are Blucher Valley, Green Valley, Two Rock Valley, Big Valley, and Bodega Valley, and the following towns: Forestville, Sebasto- pol, Stony Point, Bloomfield, Valley Ford, Bodega, Freestone, and Occidental. Of these valleys and towns more partienlar mention will be made hereafter it is the configuration of the territory they occupy that is now being eon- sidered. That portion of this country laying north of a line drawn with Forestville as its initial point, and taking in Sebastopol and Free- stone on its course to Bodega. and from thence in a direct line to the mouth of Russian River, can properly be designated Redwood Mountains -Russian River seeming to have carved them ont of the more rugged mountain forests be- yond. While these mountains do not tower very high yet the Blume and O'Ferrel redwoods surmounting some of them, although abont twenty miles distant, with a hilly country be- tween, can be plainly seen from Petaluma. South of this line, commencing with the low hills forming the western border of the Santa Rosa Valley, then swelling into hills of eonsid- erable height, and again subsiding into more gentle undulations, with an occasional subsid- ence into an approach to valley level, they reach away to the west, until in the narrow confines between Bodega Bay and the Estero Americano they are met by the waves of the Pacific ocean. With a length of over fifteen miles and an average breadth of abont six miles, this jumble of hills and vales presents a newness of appear- ance very suggestive of tender age. geologically considered. Except that the northern end of this territory had a fair showing of oak timber, the most of it was smooth hills, covered with indigenous grasses, until the plow claimed them for the raising of cereals and potatoes.
The remaining topography of the county, so
far as relates to hill and mountain profile. pre- sents only two subdivisions. The first is that chain, almost too rugged to be ealled hills, and yet hardly of sufficiently pretentions altitude to be designated mountains (although on Bower's map two peaks are named), forming the divide between Russian River and Dry Creek valleys. Commencing in gradually increasing undula- tions at the confluence of Russian River and Dry Creek, they extend back to a point just north of the line between Sonoma and Mendo- cino counties, where they are chopped off by Dry Creek plunging down through a gorge in the hills. These hills present a mixture of oak timber. chaparral, and grazing land, with a small showing of redwood timber along two or three of the side streams just below Dry Creek cañon.
There is now left the northwest corner of the county, bounded on the east by Dry Creek Val- ley, on the south by Russian River, on the west by the ocean, and on the north by Mendocino County. The territory embraced in this section of the county has a length, coastwise, of about thirty miles. with an average breadth of about sixteen miles. With the exception of a sea-side mesa of breadth varying from one to two miles and extending from Fort Ross up to the month of the Gualala River, this whole area is mountain and forest, interspersed with occasional glades that invite occupancy of such as prefer the soli- tude of rugged wilds for themselves and floeks. Ilere is an unbounded wealth of redwood forests and tanbark oak, with a possible treasure of hidden mineral wealth to be revealed in the future; for already at Mount Jackson there is a quicksilver mine being snecessfully and profit- ably worked. The grandeur of the seenery of this vast stretch of country must be seen to be appreciated; but, even to the great mass of Sonoma County's own citizens it is a terra incoy. nita. We do not speak at random about the wild grandeur of nature as exhibited in this field, for nearly three decades ago we spent days and weeks amid these scenes. Our impressions and experiences were then given to the publie in a
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
communication under caption of, " The Petaluma llunters," and will be reproduced in another chapter of this work.
Having given the skeleton ontlines of the hills and mountains of Sonoma County, we now turn to the valleys. Petaluma Valley com- mences at San Pablo Bay and extends north- ward fifteen miles and ends where low rolling hills form the dividing line between it and Santa Rosa Valley. It has an average breadth of from three to five miles and is of inexhausti- ble fertility. The mountains to the east and the hills to the west are susceptible of cultiva- tion high up on their sides, and their summits are productive of indigenons grasses which fur- nish a never failing supply of a range to those engaged in dairying and stoek-raising. The valley land is productive of wheat, barley and hay. The land immediately along the foot- hills is of the very best quality for orchards and vineyards.
Sonoma Valley has been so fully described in : connection with the early establishment there of the mission "San Francisco Solano," that it requires little further description. It is a per- feet gem of a valley, its foot resting upon tide- water and extending inland ten or twelve miles. It is the natural home of the vine, the fig and the orange. Now that it is penetrated by two railroads, its real worth and advantages will win for it that consideration that its real worth and importance entitles it to.
Passing north the wide sweep of Santa Rosa Valley comes to view. This valley is a verit- able paradise. Undeniably this is one of the most lovely valleys in the State. Its fertility and geographical position which secures it against the harsh coast winds, and its perfect adaptability for the production of all kinds of fruits marks it for a bright future of prosperity. With an average breadth of six miles and a length of eighteen miles it presents a wealth of valley and scenie grandeur worth the crossing of a continent to behold.
l'assing beyond the Santa Rosa Valley north- ward we come to the Russian River Valley.
This valley is considerable narrower than the Santa Rosa Valley, but in richness of soil and variableness of scenery, it is not surpassed by any other valley in the State. From Ilealds- burg to Cloverdale this valley is becoming one continuons chain of vineyards and orchards. lIere it is that corn grows with a luxuriance equal to that witnessed in the great Mississippi Valley.
The Dry Creek Valley that unites with that of the Russian River near Healdsburg, is of equal fertility and has long been famous for its products of small grain, eorn, fruit and hops. · It reaches far up into the coast mountains, and is a favorite place of resort for campers and sportsmen.
Cloverdale is at the head of Russian River Valley, but beyond it in a pocket of the moun- tains is Oat Valley, not large, but a gem both in point of scenic surroundings and fertility of soil.
Easterly from Healdsburg is Alexander Val- ley, a side cove to Russian River Valley. It is a valley of considerable extent and great fertil- ity. Mr. Alexander, after whom the valley was named, was a pioneer settler, and in the early fifties had a bearing orchard and other evidences of thrift and enterprise around him.
To the north and cast of the Santa Rosa Val- ley is a perfect nest of mountain valleys of great productiveness. The Guilicos Valley lays serenely at the foot of Hood Mountain, and now that its solitude is broken by the whistle of the Santa Rosa and Carquinez trains pass- ing through it, will soon become a famous sub- urban resort. Rincon Valley is a little nest in the mountains three or four miles long by two wide. Shut in as it is by surrounding moun- tains it has a climate of unusual mildness and is famous for the good quality of grapes and what that fruit produees. Bennett Valley is one of the largest of the group of valleys, lying easterly from Santa Rosa, its length being abont seven miles with an average breadth of over two miles. This valley is almost one continuous vineyard. High up in the mountains is the
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
little Alpine Valley, mostly devoted to stock, but with a few vineyards. Elliot Valley. so named after the discoverer of the Geyser Springs, on Porter Creek. a tributary of Mark West Creek, is a small valley in which both farming and fruit raising is carried on.
Turning now to the west side of the county there are the following designated valleys: Green Valley is an extremely rich and produe- tive belt of country of about six miles in length and two miles in breadth, lying in the red- woods north of Sebastopol. This valley, on account of its sheltered position, has always been productive of fine fruit and berries. For the growing of peaches and kindred fruit it is unrivalled. This was one among the earliest settled valleys in the county, and has always had a thrifty and enterprising population.
Blueher Valley is located in the rolling hills between the Santa Rosa and Two Rock valleys. It is a valley more in name than seeming for it is difficult to say where the valley ends and the undulations begin. It is land of great richness, and for all standard varieties of fruit it can hardly be excelled.
Next comes Two Roek Valley, so named on account of twin rocks at the northwest corner of the ranch now owned by Mr. Ezekiel Den- man. The Spaniards called it " Dos Pidros." and so the name continued down to 1854-5, when it gradually took on the American name, Two Rock. This valley is about three miles long
and two miles wide. The soil is rich alluvial. and the valley has always been very productive of potatoes and grain.
Big Valley occupies the basin forming the head waters of the Estero Americano. The valley and surrounding hills for miles around, in the years gone by have produced untold quantities of farm prodnets. Being contiguous to Bodega where farming was first inaugurated, Big Valley naturally invited early occupancy and soon took front rank among farming dis- tricts, 'and has maintained it to the end.
The next, and last valley to be noted is that of the San Antonio. This is a narrow valley at best, and that portion of it on the Sonoma County side of the creek is extremely narrow. But the head of the San Antonio widens out and embraces several thousand acres of com- paratively level land. Here used to be two chain of lagoons: one at the head of the San Antonio Creek and the other at the head of SSal- mon Creek. But these lagoons have been drained and now are used for enltivation.
We have thus given a birds-eye view of the general topography of Sonoma County. We first gave a skeleton of the mountain and hill ranges and have designated and located the val- leys. But it must be borne in mind that much of what has been designated hills, and even portions classed as mountains, is susceptible of cultivation, and the remainder is excellent stoek land.
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
AMERICAN OCCUPATION.
· CHAPTER XI.
SONOMA A CENTRAL POINT AFTER THE BEAR FLAG REVOLUTION-EFFECT OF DISCOVERY OF THE MINES -WHO WERE SETTLERS IN SONOMA COUNTY AT THE TIME-F. G. BLUME'S STATEMENT HOW WILD AND UNINHABITED THE COUNTRY WAS -MR. LEIGH'S HUNTING ENPERIENCE NEAR PETALUMA- - FIRST SETTLERS IN AND AROUND PETALUMA- BACHELOR RANCHES -- THE LIVES AND HABITS OF THE PEOPLE -- WILD HORSES, AND RECKLESS RIDERS THE REATTA ( LASSO) A COMMON INSTRUMENT WITH WILICH TO CAPTURE WILD HORSES AND CATTLE-THE VARIABLE EXPERIENCES OF EARLY FARMERS- DESCRIPTIVE OF THIS COUNTY AS IT WAS IN 1854-ASSESSOR'S REPORT FOR 1955 -- THE FIRST FAIR OF SONOMA COUNTY.
[THI the hoisting of the bear flag at Sonoma virtually came to an end Span- ish rule here. Although it was two years later before California literally passed under American rule by the treaty of Guadalupe Ili- dalgo, yet so far as the territory was concerned American rule was complete and irrevocable. During the short interregnum that intervened between the capture of Sonoma and the discoy- ery of the gold mines of California, the very fact that Sonoma was the center of the revolu- tionary movement made it the head center of American immigrants and adventurers. During these adventurons and troublous times many families from the outlying country naturally sought Sonoma as a haven of security. This inflation of its population gave to it, for the time being, a marked prominence on the northern frontier. But the discovery of the gold mines in 1848 turned the attention of everybody mountainward. For a time Sonoma was a sort of distributive point from whence supplies were drawn for gold-seekers, but soon places more accessible to the mines sprung up.
and Sonoma relapsed into a quiet hamlet, yet the county seat of Sonoma County, but her most enduring glory being that around her elustered the memories of the first successful revolt against Mexiean rule.
It is interesting to note how many and who were the settlers in Sonoma County at the time when it came under American jurisdiction. General Vallejo as commandante of the north- ern frontier had power to confer grants of land. subjeet to confirmation by the Governor of Cal- ifornia. General Vallejo received this author- ization in 1833. The first exercise of this power seems to have been in the granting of lands to Messrs. McIntosh, Black and Dawson in what is now Bodega Township. James Black afterward disposed of his interest to his partners and seeured a grant in what is now Marin County. McIntosh and Dawson became naturalized citizens of Mexico, as they had to do, in order to get their grant approved. To Melntosh was left the business of attending to getting the proper papers for the grant, and he omitted to have his partner Dawson, made a
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
party to the transaction. This led to trouble and a dissolution of the firm. Dawson set up on his own aceount and received a grant for what is now the Poglolome Grant. Dawson, on this grant doubtless was the first, aside from the Russians, to saw lumber in Sonoma County. lle established a saw-pit and with a whip-saw sawed lumber enough to build a house.
In 1840 Cyrus Alexander undertook the management of the Sotoyome. or Fiteh grant, on Russian River. He agreed to manage the raneh and eattle thereon for a period of four years at the end of which he was to receive two leagues of land for his services. He fulfilled his contract and the two leagues of land placed him in the front rank among Sonoma County's substantial men.
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