USA > California > Sonoma County > An illustrated history of Sonoma County, California. Containing a history of the county of Sonoma from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time > Part 18
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" It was early in April, and as there had been copious rains vegetation was luxuriant, and the valleys and mountain sides as far as vision could reach were one undulating sea of wild oats. The whole wide sweep of country beyond Peta- luma was very sparsely settled at that time. About midway between Petaluma and Santa Rosa the Moffet Brothers were dairying upon a large scale, and seemed to have free range of Santa Rosa Valley for their stock. My recol- lection at present is that between the old O. B. Mathews place, adjacent to Petaluma, and Santa Rosa, there was but one house immediately at the road-side. and in it I took refuge from an April shower.
" I reached Santa Rosa in time for a late din ner. E. P. Colgan had just moved into the rooms under the old Masonic Hall. Everything was topsyturvy -the cooking stove having barely been got in place. Mrs. C., notwith- standing it was two o'clock r. M., improvised a dinner, and thus I claim the honor of being the first traveler to take a meal at a regular public hotel in Santa Rosa.
" Although weary and foot-sore 1 determined
to go as far as the old Mark West Ranch House that evening. And just here I wish to record my impression at that time-and I have no de- sire to modify it now that in all my wander- ings upon this earth I had never before traversed so Eden-like a vale as that between Santa Rosa and Mark West. It was nature's own park. Wild oats, elover and other indigenous grasses, intermingled with a profusion of wild flowers of every shade and hue bedecked the broad ex- pause of plains, while the oak timber, just sparse enough to give it an orehard-like appear- ance, was putting on its new foliage amid the drapery of pendent moss, that, like ten thou- sand banners. courted the balmy breeze. It was untarnished nature, neither marred nor scarred by the plowshare of relentless man.
" At Mark West I found accommodations for the night with a couple of Frenchmen, who had a trading-post in oue wing of the old Mark West Ranch House. Morning again found me a pedestrian on the Santa Rosa plains. My course lay some miles westerly from the present road of Healdsburg, bringing me to Russian River about five mile- below Fitch's. I then traveled up the river, passing on the way a clapboard shanty, in which Lindsey Carson, brother of the famous Kit Carson, had a little store. Arriving at Fitchi's it was necessary to cross the river. There was a canoe moored at the opposite shore and a number of Indians lounging on the bank, but they were deaf to my entreaties to be ferried aeross. After wait- ing an hour one of the Fitch's, a lad then of fourteen or fifteen, came to my relief and con- vineed the dusky savages that they had better cross me over. My objective point for dinner was Ileald's, who occupied the present site of Healdsburg. I was. however, doomed to dis- appointment. as there was no one at home. From this point onward I was like a sailor at sea without chart or compass. A din road alone attested that civilization had preceded me. Mile after mile was left behind, and yet no sign of human habitation. Night cast her mantle over the earth, and I was alone in that
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
vast solitude. Before darkness obsenred clear vision I noticed that the road was trending westward, and apparently away from the river valley. At eight o'clock at night, by the star- light, I could see that around me was an amphi . theater of mountains, rendered more somber by a forest of redwoods. 1 had about coneluded that supperless and bedless I was in for vigils during the silent watches of the night, when the barking of a dog further up the canon greeted my ear. Never until then did I appreciate the poet's rhapsody over . the deep-mouthed baying of the watch-dog. There are a great many worthless curs in the world who are libels on respectable canines, but for all that man has no truer, more steadfast and faithful friend than in his dog. The ringing bark of the dog told me as plainly as though in articulated words that he had a master, and acting on this assurance ] was soon by a blazing camp fire, and the recip- ient of genuine backwoods hospitality from a young man who had pitched camp there to get ont redwood feneing material to be used in the valleys. My host shared with me his bed, and so fatigued was I that, notwithstanding the in- formation that the Indians had, only a week previous, killed a man in a canon near by, I was soon oblivious to all worldly care. This young man was able to give me positive information concerning the reputed gold mines up the river -- sufficient, at least, to convince me that ou Russian River was not located the Ophir from which Solomon got the gold for his temple, and the next day I retreated in good order, only varying my route from that traveled up in that I crossed over from Santa Rosa to the old Mil. ler & Walker store, near the now town of Sebas- topol, and thence to Petaluma by way of Stony Point.
" A comparison of the present with the past as outlined by this hasty reminiscence of that long ago, will give more marked emphasis to the character and degree of progress made by Sonoma County in the space of twenty-three years."
progress made in the settlement and development of Sonoma County up to 1855 than by append- ing the following:
Smith D. Towne, the then assessor of So- noma County, furnished to the Sonoma County Journal in August of 1855 the following statistics relating to Sonoma and Mendocino counties:
"The quantity of the land enclosed in this and Mendocino counties, amounts to 37.052 acres; about 22,400 acres of which is in the cultivation of the following products:
" Wheat. The number of acres sown is, 12,- 233, of which amount 3,500 acres only ( mostly from Chili and Oregon seed) is good, or but very slightly affected with rust, and will average 28 bushels to the acre; making a total of 95,- 000 bushels. The remainder, or 8,733 acres, was entirely destroyed, or nearly so, by the .rust, and but a small portion was ever har- vested. Last year the wheat from Oregon and Australia seed, was so badly . smutted' that it lost favor with our farmers, and the kind com- monly known as the . elub-head,' became the favorite, and was largely sown, but most unfor- tunately it seems to have been the only kind affected this year.
" Oats .- The number of acres put down to vats is, 3,268; a portion of which, in the im- mediate vicinity of the coast, has been affected by .rust.' I might have remarked that the seourge has even extended its ravages to the indigenous plants and grasses of the soil. From the many inquiries, I am led to believe that the total number of aeres will make an average crop of 35 bushels to the aere, which gives a total of 104,380 bushels.
" Barley .- This grain seems to have but few friends, and consequently very little was sown in comparison with last year. In some locali- ties, the ' cheat ' has destroyed some few fields; with this exception the grain is good. Number of acres sown, 1,561; average yield, 32 bushels to the acre; total, 49,952 bushels.
" Corn .-- Of this product there are 714 acres We cannot better give a correct idea of the , planted. the most of which is in the Russian 8
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River and Dry Creek valleys, where it seems to flourish more luxuriantly than in any other por- tion of our county. From present indications there will undoubtedly be an abundant harvest: say 40 bushels to the aere, making 28,580 bushels.
" Rye. Ouly S aeres sown, merely as an ex- periment.
" Buckwheat .-- Amount planted, 99 aeres; . of Sheep, 7,065."
seems well adapted to our soil and climate. As yet there has been none harvested; ] cannot, therefore, tell how it will yiekl.
" Peas .-- Number of acres 156: average yield, 30 bushels per acre; total, 4,680 bushels.
" Beans .- 177 acres.
" Potatoes. The quantity planted is, 1,693 acres, against 2,600 last year, and will not prob- ably yield more than 40 sacks to the acre, ow- ing, perhaps, to the extreme hot dry weather in June, which gives us a total of 67,720 sacks, of 120 pounds each. I think this the outside fig- ure. There is, however, no indication of worms or inseets disturbing them and what are raised will most likely be perfectly sound and good.
" Pumpkins, Turnips, Beets, Onions, etc., and almost every kind of garden vegetables are raised in abundance and to spare.
" Fruit Trees .- There are 6,730 set out, mostly young, from one to three years old, com- prising many varieties of apples, pears. peaches, plums, cherry, figs, apricots, etc. About one- third of the number have commenced bearing and in another year we may anticipate an abundance of fruit; and the present year, I think our county will compare as favorably both as regards quantity, as any other county in the State.
" Vineyards .- In addition to the orchards, there are many fine vineyards, numbering in the aggregate some 21,800 vines, many of which are loaded with grapes. The estimated quan- tity gathered last year was SO tons; the present season it will be fully doubled.
" American Cattle .- Number of milch cows, 5,350; dry cows, 2,575; calves, 5,750; work open, 2,771; beef cattle, 1,922; yearlings, 4,291;
total number of American cattle, 22,622. To this must be added the California cuttle, 3,588; which gives a total number of cattle (American and California) 26,250.
" Horses. - Number of gentle horses, Ameri- ean and Spanish, 3,708; wild California horses (manada) 1,250; total number of horses, 4,958. "Of Mules there are 323; of logs, 19,459;
The first fair of Sonoma County was held on the public square at Santa Rosa and which was thus reported, and appeared in the Petaluma Journal of October 20, 1855:
" Our village was thronged yesterday with people from all parts of the county to attend the first fair of the Agricultural Society. The shaded plaza in front of the court house, was selected for the place of exhibition, and here was gathered a fine collection of horses, mules, and horned cattle.
" The large Durham bull belonging to Lovell & Brothers, of Vallejo Township. attracted uni- versal attention. This animal is four years oldl; and received a premium at the recent exhibition at Sacramento. Several fine stallions were also much admired; particularly Sir Charles, a dark bay, seven years old, belonging to Mr. Seabring of Bodega; and a light bay, belonging to Mr. Tateof Santa Rosa; latter the took the first premium. . After the crowd had gazed their full at the animals in a state of repose, they were en- livened by a display of the locomotive powers of the horses, both under the saddle and in harness. A large gray horse belonging to Mr. Robinson of Petaluma, excited much remark; with good training, he will no doubt become a fine trotter.
" At four o'clock the company adjourned to the court house, and listened to a few introduc- tory remarks by Dr. Hill, the president of the society. and an interested address from C. P. Wilkins, Esq., on the importance of the applica- tion of the sciences to agriculture.
" The proceedings of the day were brought to a brilliant and harmonious close, by a ball at the Masonie Hall.
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
" We subjoin a list of the premiums awarded, for which we are indebted to Mr. Powers, secretary of the society. The first preminmis were money; the second and third were diplo- mas of the society.
" Best stallion, $10, to Mr. Tate of Santa Rosa; second best, to Mr. Seabring, of Bodega : third best, to Mr. Manning of Green Valley.
" Best stud colt, premium to Mr. MeMinn; second best, to Mr. MeDowell.
" Best brood mare, $8, to Julio Carrillo, of Santa Rosa : second best, to Mr. Stanley, of Petaluma: third, to Mr. Watson.
" Best colt, $5, to Mr. Seabring, of Bodega; second to Mr. Tate, of Santa Rosa.
" Best riding horse, 85, to Mr. Wright, of Santa Rosa.
" Best buggy horse, $5, to Mr. Robinson, of Petaluma.
" Best draft horse, $5, to Mr. Stanley, of Petaluma.
" Bestmule, premium to Mr. Wright, of Santa Rosa.
"Best bull. $8, to Lovell & Brothers, of Val- lejo Township.
"Best cow, $8, to Mr. Wright, of Santa Rosa.
" Best calf, 85, to Mr. Wright, of Santa Rosa.
" Best beef steer, 85, to Mr. Clark, of Santa Rosa.
" Best specimen of cheese, $3, to Mr. Title, of l'etaluma.
" Best specimen of wheat, $5, to Mr. Neal, of Santa Rosa.
" Best specimen of saddlery, $2.50, to Mr. Barnard, of Santa Rosa."
While the above showing of the assessor, as well as the report of the County Fair, will seem small and inconsequential when con- trasted with he products of Sonoma County How, yet it shows that the people had accom- plished very much, considering the newness of the country.
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
REMENISCENT OF A THIRD OF A CENTURY AGO.
CHAPTER XHI.
AN EPITOME OF THE FIRST YEAR'> RECORD OF THE SONOMA COUNTY JOURNAL -- THE GEYSERS IN 1856 THE PETALUMA HUNTERS IN 1860.
IIE first newspaper published in Petaluma appeared on the 18th of August, 1855, and was entitled The Petaluma Weekly Journal and Sonoma County Advertiser. Hon. Thomas L. Thompson, now of the Santa Rosa Democrat, was proprietor. and HI. L. Weston, long one of the proprietors of the Argus, and yet a citizen of Petaluma, was foreman of the office, which was in a one-story wooden building sitnated on the present site of Towne's drug store. The only other paper being pub- lished in the county was the Sonoma Bulletin. by A. J. Cox, and as it suspended publication in September of that year, the Journal became the repository of all matters of historie concern, not only of Sonoma, but of some of the adjacent counties that as yet had no publie journals of their own. While the most of the matter con- tained in the files of this journal from the 18th of August. 1855, to the 18th of August, 1856, is local to Petaluma, yet there is so much of it that relates to the whole county that an epitome of it properly falls within the scope of the county's general history.
Among the items of general interest in the first issue we find the annual report of S. D. Towne, county assessor, from which it is learned that within the territory now constitut-
ing the counties of Sonoma and Mendocino, there were 37,052 aeres of enclosed land, of which 22,400 were under cultivation. There were 12,233 acres of wheat, of which it was estimated that 3,500 acres would yield twenty- eight bushels per acre, the remainder being nearly all destroyed by rust. Rust also ex- tended its ravages to the indigenous plants and grasses.
Among the Petaluma advertisers in this first. few.issues were: attorneys-at-law. Win. D. Bliss. Wm. A. Cornwall. J. Chandlar, and I. G. Wickersham; saddlery, Samuels & Gedney and W. Van Houghton; dry goods and groceries, Ilill & Lyon and Elder & Hinman: painting, Geo. W. Andrews and J. B. Bailey; lumber, H. S. Newton and Geo. R. Perkins: hardware. Derby & Baldwin: dealers in produce and agents for Petaluma line of packets, Kittrell & Co .; drug and book store, S. C. Haydon; Ameri- can Hotel. Anthony G. Oakes; general mer- chandise, Calish & Newman; steamer Reindeer, Edward Latapie, master; furniture. L. Chap- man; dentist, W. D. Tringne: Petaluma Hlouse. Ramsey & Light: stable and stock-yard. C. I. Robinson: Pioneer Hotel. D. W. Flogdell. A. B. Bowers and Miss Morse were the teachers of the Petaluma public school. N. M.C. Menefee
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
was county clerk, and Thomas HI. Pyatt and Joel Miller, deputies; Israel Brockman was sheriff and A. C. McKinnen, deputy.
The California State election was held on the 5th of September, and is reported as follows: J. Neely Johnson, Know Nothing, was elected Governor over John Bigler, Democrat, by a majority of 5,011 in a total vote of 96,885. In Petaluma the vote stood Johnson 277, Bigler 204. The Settlers' elected their entire county ticket by a large majority. The following were the officers chosen: Assemblymen, Il. G. Heald and J. S. Rathburn; County Judge, Wm. Churchman; District Attorney, I. G. Wicker- sham: County Clerk, N. MeC. Menefee; Sheriff, A. C. Bledso; Treasurer, W. A. Buster: Super- intendent of Schools, B. B. Bonham; Surveyor, Win. Mock; Assessor, W. G. Lee; Coroner, J. S. Williams; Public Administrator, W. B. Atter- berry. The total vote polled in Sonoma and Mendocino was 1,896. In the issue of the 8th of September the following mention is made: "The county seat was removed last fall from Sonoma to Santa Rosa, at which time the latter place contained not more than one or two honses; it now boasts of three stores, two hotels, one restaurant. one blacksmith shop, a large livery stable, varions private residences and several new houses in course of construction. The county buildings are not constructed but Inmber is on the ground for their commence- ment." The Sonoma Bulletin, abont the 12th of September, requested the Journal to an- nonnee ite demise.
In September and October we find the follow- ing record: The Steamer Georgina, which had been running on the Sonoma and San Francisco line, commenced making regular trips between Petaluma and San Francisco the 17th of Sep- tember. The Kate Hayes, under the command of Captain C. M. Baxter, was also making regn- lar trips. Among new advertisers who put in an appearance during the months of September and October, were C. P. Wilkins, attorney-at- law; W. L. Anderson and John S. Robberson, M. Weil & Co., U. Samuels and M. Armes, and
John G. Huff, general merchandise; Thomas L. Barnes, S. W. Brown and T. A. Hylton, physi- cians and surgeons; B. Tannebaum, dry goods; A. Skilhnan and Wm. Zartman, and Dean & Bates, wagon and carriage-makers. The co- partnership of Wm. Zartman, John Fritsch and James Reed, who were engaged in blacksmith- ing and wagon-making, was dissolved the 23d of October, James Reed having perished on the ill-fated Central America that went down at sea. The Bodega steam saw-mill, owned by B. Phelps, of San Francisco, was destroyed by fire on the night of October 18, the loss being between $15,000 and $18,000. The first fair of Sonoma County was held in Santa Rosa on the plaza, in front of the court house, October 18. The board of managers of the society consisted of Dr. J. Hill, President; B. B. Monday, Vice-President; Mr. Jenkins, Treasurer: S. T. Power, Secretary: Judge Thompson, Dr. Ormsby, Major Beck, Major Ewing, A. Cope- land and J. M. Hudspeth, Directors. The State fair was held at Sacramento during the last week of September. Among the snecessful competitors for premiums were the following named from Sonoma County: H. L. Lovell & Brother, of Vallejo Township, for the best bull, California bred Durham, $50; second best cheese, Sammel Lewis, $15; best five acres or more of corn, 11. M. Wilson, Russian River, 850.
Between November 10 and December 15, 1855, the Journal contained the following : Among new advertisers were, E. B. Cooper, groceries ; Rosanna Loftus, Farmer's Hotel ; Sam Brown, American Hotel; Harmon Ramer and J. H. Knowles, Petaluma and Bodega Stage Line; J. E. Fowler, bakery and restaurant; George W. Miller, barber; E. B. Lockley, attor- ney-at-law, Santa Rosa ; JJohn Handley, dry goods, groceries and hardware, Santa Rosa. At ten o'clock, A. M., on the morning of Friday, November 23d, the boiler of the steamer Georg- ina exploded while lying at her wharf in the creek at the foot of English street (now West- ern avenne), taking on freight and passengers, killing John Flood, fireman, and George Funk,
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
and wounding G. Busher and Valentine Iken. The coroner's jury returned a verdict to the effect that Flood came to his death by the crim- inal condnet and inattention of the captain of the steamer, John Thompson, and of the owners. The Georgina was owned by Wagner & Bihler, of Sonoma. The jury consisted of J. B. Sonth- ard, E. S. McMurry, James E. Gedney, S. P. Derby, Charles R. Arthur, Jonathan Adams, J. 11. Sproule, S. J. Smith, Harrison Stanley, Wm. Shelton. J. D. Bartlett, George Harris and William Van Houten. A postoffice, with Seveir Lewis as postmaster, was established at Windsor about the 10th of November. Captain Stephen Smith, one of the pioneer American settlers in California, and owner of the Smith ranch in Bodega, died at San Francisco, on the 16th of November. lle was a native of Danforth, Massachusetts, and aged sixty-nine years, But- ter from the Petaluma dairies, which were already famous throughont the State, was worth $1.25 per pound in Sacramento.
Between the dates of December 15, 1835, and March 1, 1856, appears the following: On Jan- uary 5th the following were installed officers of Petaluma Lodge, 1. 0. 0. F .: D. D. Carder, N. G .: S. Payran .. V. G .: J. 11. Siddons, R. S .; 1. K. Cramer, P. S .; M. II. Jose, T .; JI. E. Ged- ney, C .; R. Phinney, W .; George Harris, R. S. N. G .; Abraham Ward, L. S. N. G .: A. K. Vietz, R. S. V. G .; John Stutman, L. S. V. G .: Thomas C. Gray, R. S. S .: James B. Hogle, L. S. S. The new county buildings at Santa Rosa were completed about the 25th of December. Among the new Petaluma advertisements were E. F. Martin, groceries; G. P. Kellogg, daguer- rean artist : Robinson & Doyle, stable and stock yard; Gus Harris, groceries, dry goods, hard- ware, crockery, etc. On the 23d of Jannary Mr. Schwartz exhibited to the editor of the Journal half an ounce of gold taken from the Bodega Mines. It was of a rongh, coarse char- acter, and of a rusty color, but very pure, and worth $19 per onnee. On the 31st of January, James Ilollonsby, a native of New York, and twenty seven years of age was killed near Peta-
1
Inma by the accidental discharge of his gun. In February, a military company was organized, called the Petalnma Guard, with the following officers: Captain P. B. Hewlett; First Lien- tenant, J. HI. Siddons; Second Lientenant, Frank Bray; Brevet Lieutenant, Thomas F. Baylis; First Sergeant, F. J. Benjamin; Second Sergeant, M. HI. Jose; Third Sergeant, G. B. Mathews; Fourth Sergeant. Warren G. Gibbs; First Corporal, O. T. Baldwin; Second Corporal, J. K. Cramer; Third Corporal, B. F. Cooper; Fourth Corporal, Samnel Brown. The company numbered forty members, and offered to serve as a fire company if furnished with apparatus. On the 18th of February the Democracy met in mass convention at Santa Rosa, and elected M. E. Cook, Jasper O'Farrell, R. Harrison, P. R. Thompson, Josiah Moran, C. P. Wilkins and George Pearce as delegates to a State Conven- tion, to be held at Sacramento on the 5th of March.
Between March 1 and June 7, 1856, there was recorded the following: At a meeting in Petaluma on the 15th of March it was decided, by a majority of three, to incorporate. There is beginning to be manifested a bitter feeling between sellers and grant owners, as is evi- denced by several communications on each side of the question; and on the 29th of March the Settler's Bill passed the California Senate. On the 5th of April there was reported tronble between the Green Valley and Tomales Indians, growing out of the killing of one of the former tribe, by one of the latter. The surrender of the offending Tomales Indian was demanded- if not delivered up war was liable to ensne, We find, however, no record of the war. On April 19th Colonel A. C. Godwin, Julio Carrillo and J. Crane, directors of the Geyser Road Com- pany, made a report in which they mapped out what they believe to be a feasible ronte for a wagon road to those springs. April 26th annonneement is made that Captain Ray, with a large force of Indians is making rapid prog- ress in the construction of a road over Bald Mountains to the Geysers. In the Journal of
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
the 3rd of May appears the valedictory of Thomas L. Thompson, as editor and proprietor -II. L. Weston being his successor. Judge .). E. Me Near, a pioneer of California, and formerly eonnty judge of Sonoma, died in San Francisco on the 6th of May. The following new adver- tisements had appeared of new beginners in Petaluma : A. Meyer, lessons in music and singing; A. Ayres, saddlery and harness; James Daly, groceries and provisions; William R. Wells, physician and surgeon: Israel ('ook, brick-laying and plastering; George J. Baus- tetter, Union Billiard Saloon; II. P. Ileintzel- man, agent for steamer General K'eurney, plying between Petaluma and San Francisco; George Ross, dealer in paints, oils, varnish, etc. In the issue of June 5th mention is made of Gov- ernor Johnson's proclamation on account of the vigilance committee, declaring San Francisco in a state of insurrection, and ordering all per- sons liable to military duty to report to Major General W. T. Sherman. On the 14th of June James King, of William, of the San Francisco Bulletin was shot, and died on the 20th. On the 22d Casey and Cora were hung by the vigi- lance committee, and on the 31st Yankee Sul- livan, the noted prize-fighter, held in durance vile by the vigilance committee, committed sni- cide. The nearness of Petaluma to San Fran- cisco rendered these occurrences of thrilling interest to her people.
Between the 7th of May and 2d of August the following record is made: The value of the butter, cheese, and eggs produced and sold in the vieinity of Petaluma, Santa Rosa, and Rus- sian River, during the month of May, was esti- mated at $92,399. The steamers Kate Hayes and General Kearney were running in opposi- tion, to San Francisco, at twenty-five cents and one dollar, respectively, for passengers. The new advertisers for Petaluma were: Mrs. W. II. Parker, school for young ladies; Acton, Stephens & Parker, produce depot, and W. I'. " Ewing, Geyser Hotel. St. John's Episcopal Church, Petaluma, was organized July 31st, by the election of the following vestrymen: John
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