USA > California > Sonoma County > An illustrated history of Sonoma County, California. Containing a history of the county of Sonoma from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time > Part 6
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It will be borne in mind that Kostromitinof, who executed this contract with Captain Snt- ter, was the head officer of the Alaska govern- ment while, at the time, Rotchef was manager at Ross. When it came to a delivery of the property Sutter seems to have induced Mana- ger Rotchef to give him a writing ante-dating the contract above referred to one day, in which Rotchef certified that the lands held by the company for twenty-nine years was included in the sale to M. Le Capitaine Sutter of the other effects of the company for the sum of $30,000. It was upon the shadowy title to land thus ac- quired by certificate of a subordinate officer who had no power to confirm any such sale, that Russian title to land along the coast became a stalking spectacle among American settlers in after years.
Previous to this sale of the Ross and Bodega property to Sntter, a portion of the former oc- eupants there had been transferred to Alaska stations. Manager Rotchef, together with the remaining employes of the company, took their departure from Ross in the late days of
1841 or early in Jannary of 1842, on board the Constantine, bound for Alaska. While all of them, doubtless, had cherished associations and memories of the land to which they returned, we imagine that it was not without sore and sad hearts many of them watched the receding outlines of Fort Ross and the evergreen forests that forms its enchanting back-ground. Thus, in a day, where for nearly a third of a century had been heard the ringing of hammer and anvil; the noisy labor of ship-carpenters and calkers and the din of coopers, a sudden silence fell, seemingly like that which hovered over that quiet spot just sonth of the fort where a Greek cross marked the last resting place of those who had ended their life-work there. Even the stock that had been reared there were gathered together and driven to the Sacramento valley ranch of Captain Sutter. And as if the hand of fate had turned entirely against Ross, Sutter, by means of a schooner he had acquired in the purchase from the Russians, even carried away from Ross several buildings with which to adorn the inner court of his fort at New Helvetia. This will account for the absence at Ross of many buildings ennmerated in the cat- alogne at the time of sale by the Russians. As Fort Ross occupies a first prominence in the history of Sonoma County it will not be ont of place to follow its history to its end in this chapter.
In reference to the departure of the Rus- sians from Fort Ross, Bancroft says: "One Russian, and perhaps several, remained on the ranches to look out for the company's interests. Sutter sent Robert Ridley to assume charge for him at first; but John Bidwell took his place early in 1842, and was in turn succeeded by William Bennitz late in 1843. Meanwhile most of the moveable property, including the cannon, implements, and most of the cattle, was removed to New Helvetia. The few hundred cattle left behind soon became so wild that if meat was needed it was easier to catch a deer or bear. The Californians made no effort to oermpy the abandoned fortress; since having
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
virtually consented to the sale of everything but the land, the government had no property to be protected there."
As already stated William Bennitz took pos- session of the Ross property as Sutter's agent in 1843. Ile subsequently leased the property, in abont 1545, and still later purchased the buildings and fort and became possessor of the Muniz or Fort Ross grant extending along the roast from the Russian River northward to a point just above the present Timber Cove. Mr. Bennitz, with his family, lived at Fort Ross until 1867, when he sold the property and re- moved to Oakland. In 1874 he went to the Argentine Republic, and died there in 1876.
The writer visited Fort Ross twenty-seven years ago, when the palisade walls of the en- closure were still in good preservation, as also the buildings within, together with the Greek chapel and hectagonal block-honses described above by Duhant C'illy. As even then the country from Bodega to the Gnalala River was comparatively unsettled by Americans, we will here introduce our description of the trip as it appeared under the caption of " Editorial Jot- tings by the Wayside," in the Argus of July 30, 1861:
" Leaving Petaluma in the afternoon, a few hours' ride brought us to Bloomfield, where we were greeted by numerous friends; and accepted the hospitality of our old friend W. B. Wood, of the firm of Wood & Arthur. It is hardly necessary to inform our readers that this flonr- ishing village is located in the center of Big Valley; and that the valley and upland sur- rounding is very prolific in its yield of cereals. ' spuds,' and Republicans. A dress parade, in the evening, of a company of youthful zouaves, who marched to music extracted from a tin can, convinced us that the martial spirit of that vil- lage was thoroughly aroused, and that with such a home-guard Bloomfield ean bid defiance to Davis and his emissaries.
" At an early hour in the morning, we were galloping down the valley in the direction of Bodega Corners. On either side of the road,
and as far as the eye could sean, was one unin- terrupted vista of grain fields, in every stage of harvesting, from the gavels that were dropping from the reapers that were clattering on every hand, up to the shock in the field or the new made stack in the barnyard. Bodega Corners is on the Smith grant, and consists of a hotel, two stores, a Catholic church, blacksmith shop, etc. After passing the Corners we were with- ont chart or compass, having entered upon a region by ns unexplored. For several miles onr conrse lay along Salmon Creek, the road in many places being arched over by the tangled wildwood through which it was cut; then taking a bridle trail leading over a mountain that over- looked the deep blue ocean, we followed its zig. zag windings to the mouth of the Russian River. Here we performed a feat only second to that of Moses and his followers crossing the Red Sea with dry sandals: the sea swell having cast up a barrier of sand across the month of the river, forming a bridge upon which we crossed, without our steed dipping his feet in water. lle evidently regarded it as a dangerous undertaking, for every time the surf, after re- ceding as it to gather strength, would come rolling up hissing and seething, narrowing the space down to fifteen or twenty feet between the deep river on the one hand and the briny deep on the other, he would attempt to take the back track, apparently having lost all confidence in either our prudence or judgment. Across the river, our course lay along the coast; and as Fort Ross was twelve miles distant, without a human habitation intervening, we whiled away the hours by noting the ever-varying landscape or watching the surf as it broke in a long line of white spray against the roek-bound coast; or anon the eye would be relieved by the appear- ance of a coaster, with full-spread canvas. gliding over the billows with the grace of a sea gull. Passing over a spur of the mountain clothed with a heavy forest of redwood and fir, we entered an opening from whence we looked down upon Fort Ross, on the level plain below. " Before proceeding further, it may not be
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
out of place to inform our readers that Fort Ross was founded some fifty years ago by Rus- sians, who settled at that point for the purpose of capturing sea otter; which pursuit they fol- lowed for perhaps twenty years. Aside from the fort buildings, enclosed by a high and sub- stantial palisade wall over one hundred yards square, there was, at one period, some sixty dwellings; but they have crumbled and passed away. After they left this coast, the property changed hands several times; but was purchased by the present proprietor, Mr. Bennitz, eight- een years ago, and he has been in ocenpation ever since.
" As we descended the slope toward the Fort we felt as it approaching a spot entitled to a prominent place in the antiquity of our State. The Greek church of Russian architecture that forms one corner of the quadrangle; the two- story hectagonal sentry-house of solid hewn timber, forming the diagonal corners of the pali- sade, and with loop-holes for cannon and small arms; and the massive gates which proteet the front entrance; conjured up to our mind con- jectures of the scenes of which it was the theater, long, long years ago.
" Having a letter of introduction to Mr. Bennitz, we dismounted, and the ponderons gate yielded to our pressure and swung back creaking upon its rusty hinges. All the ap- pointments inside were in keeping with those without; strength and durability predominating over the ornamental. The substantial dwelling, the outhouses ranged around the square, the well in the center, the four huge mastiff's of the St. Bernard and Newfoundland breed that fondled around ns as we approached the dwell- ing, completed a picture that came nearer our conception of the surroundings of some of the old feudal barons than anything we ever expe- rienced before. We presented our letter to Mr. Bennitz, who is a very intelligent German, and he at once extended to us the hospitality of his mansion. Mr. Bennitz lives in a world by himself; having a domain that extends from the month of Russian River, eighteen miles up 3
the coast, and untenanted except by his raqueros, who are stationed at various points to take care of his stock. His isolated position deprives his children of the advantages of a public school; but to atone for this he has employed a private teacher, competent to impart instruction in both the English and German languages.
" Refreshed by our night's sojourn at Fort Ross we continued on our journey up the coast. The first place worthy of note above the Fort is Timber Cove. Here, our late fellow-townsman Mr. Kalkman, is located,and in company with Mr. Snaple, owns a mill which is turning out about 25,000 feet of lumber every twenty-four hours. Two schooners were taking in cargoes of hunber for San Francisco market. The proprietors have constructed a substantial railway extending from the mill half a mile up the canon, down which they bring saw-logs on a car.
Four miles above Timber Cove we passed Salt Point. Duncan's mill used to be located at this place; but has been removed to a point two miles distant from the month of Russian River, in consequence of which this Point has lost considerable of its importance, as is manifest by its group of tenantless houses; but its quarry of excellent stone, considerable of which is be- ing shipped to the navy yards at Mare Island, may give new vigor to the place.
" Four miles beyond Salt Point we passed Fisk's mill. This mill cuts about 8,000 feet of lumber daily. Its supply of timber is inex- haustible; and we hope its proprietors may reap the rich reward which their enterprise merits.
" By noon we had reached a distance of tweu- ty miles above Fort Ross, and we stopped for refreshments at the Ranch House of Bealer, the claimant of the German grant. Ilere is a stretch of plain extending up and down the coast for ten miles, that is unsurpassed in beauty of location or fertility of soil anywhere between Point Reyes and Point Arenas. The plain varies from one-quarter to two miles in breadth. and with just sufficient ineline from the foot hills to the beach to afford a splendid sea view. The mountains bordering it are covered with a
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
perfect wilderness of forest, of incalculable value.
"Ten miles more had to be traversed up the coast before we turned our face homeward; and Chris. Stingle, of the Ranch Honse, volunteered to act as our guide and companion. We were soon dashing pellmell over the plain up the coast; Chris. in the meantime entertaining us by relating hunting adventures and pointing out spots where he had killed elk, bear, or other game of lesser consequence. Five miles brought ns to the crossing of the Gualala River, where we entered Mendocino Connty. Here the mountains closed in upon the beach, and timber stood so close upon the brink that if uprooted it would fall in the surf below. Up to this point we had found the roads and trails reasona- bly good, but those five miles from the Gualala to Fish Rock were the concentrated essence of break-neck roads. Deep gorge atter gorge lay athwart our way, and in many places a false step would have precipitated both horse and rider down to certain destruction. Before reaching this point we had been so indiscreet as to inform our companion that we had had considerable equestrian experience, and as he took the lead and did not dismount, a sense of honor prompted us to remain in the saddle even at the risk of our neck.
"At Fish Rock there is a mill in process of erection, in which will be placed the machinery formerly used in the Perkins mill, Bodega. This is a good location, there being an inex- haustible supply of good timber and a secure harbor for vessels to lay while receiving cargoes of lumber.
" We returned to the Ranch House that night, and as tired as we were, we did ample justice to the bachelor fare of Chris. and his two com- panions. In the morning we were in saddle bright and early, and accompanied by our com- panion of the previous day, who accompanied us several miles on our return, started on our way down the coast. We had rode about two miles when the practiced eye of Chris. spied a grey fox between us and the beach. It allowed
ns to approach within forty paces, when a shot from our revolver warned it to seek safety in the chapparel on the foot-hills half a mile distant. The chase across the level plain was spirited and exciting, our horses seeming to enjoy the sport, strained every nerve to overhaul his fox- ship, and succeeded several times in doing so and attempted to jump upon him, but with the cunning, characteristic of his tribe, by tacking and doubling he finally outgeneraled us and reached cover. So ended our fox chasc. A few miles further on we parted with our companion and continued on our conrse down the coast alone. At night-fall we were again welcomed to the hospitality of the Fort Ross mansion. The next day being the Sabbath, the rest for which it was set apart was needed by both our- self and our jaded horses, but as circumstances rendered our immediate return necessary, we bade our host and his excellent lady good-by at eight o'clock in the morning and at eight o'clock in the evening arrived in Petaluma, having rode forty-five miles mostly over a very mountainous country."
At the time of our visit to Fort Ross above described, Mr. Bennitz related to us many thrill- ing adventures in connection with his residence there. Some years later we wrote a series of California sketches entitled " Wayside Memo- ries" and one of the sketches under the caption of " A Random Shot" was a recital of an occur- rence near Fort Ross, as related to us by Bennitz. We reproduce it here:
"Said Mr. Bennitz: ' At the time I purchased the Fort Ross property there were around and in the neighborhood of the Fort a large num- ber of Indians. Voluntarily they have become almost a part of the estate and as obedient to my orders as if mind, soul and body. I then raised a large amount of grain, and had thou- sands of head of cattle, which gave me ample opportunity to utilize the labor of these untu- tored aborigines. As my influence over them mainly depended on the kindness and considera- tion with which they were treated, I let no opportunity pass to give them evidence of my
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
regard for their pleasure and welfare. They, like all Indians I know of, were passionately fond of personal decoration, and for ornamenta- tion prized nothing more highly than the plu- mage of birds. One day my Indians were noticing some vultures. or California condors, on the pine trees some distance up the mountain side back of the Fort, and I overheard them express- ing a wish that they had some of the feathers. ". Saying nothing I quietly took my gun and sallied forth, determined if possibe to gratify their desire. By tacking backward and forward along the mountain side I gradually worked my way up to the trees where the vultures were. The heavy foliage of the pines prevented my getting a ready view of the game I was seeking. With my gun cocked and the muzzle pointing up I was moving quietly side-wise with eyes peer- ing into the canopy of boughs, when I was startled by the breaking of a stick close to my right.
"' One look was enough to set every hair of my head on end! Not much over the length of my gun from me stood, erect on its hind feet, a grizzly bear of monster size-at the time he
1 seemed to me ten feet high! By impulse, I wheeled, brought my gun to a level, and with- out any attempt at taking aim, fired. The bear pitched forward upon me and we fell together -- my gun flying out of my hands, and some dis- - tance away. I was frightened beyond the power of language to express. The bear and I had fallen together, but I had given myself a rolling lurch down the mountain which, for the moment. took me out of the reach of his dreaded jaws. This advantage was not to be lost; and I kept going over and over without any regard to elegance of posture, until I had got at least two hundred yards from where I fell; and when I stopped rolling it was a problem with me which I was most, dead or alive.
"'I ventured upon my feet and looked cautious- ly around, but could see no grizzly. To borrow a miner's expression, 4I began prospecting around.' I had an earnest desire to get hold of my gun, but a dislike to the neighborhood in which we
had parted company. With the utinost caution I worked my way up to a position overlooking the spot where I and the grizzly together fell. To my surprise, and gratification as well, there lay the bear stretched at full length, and dead. My random shot had proved what seldom occurs to grizzly bears, a dead shot. That,' said Mr. Bennitz, knocking the ashes out of an elegant meerschaum, 'was the biggest scare of my life.'"
While we have carried our chapter descrip- tive of Ross beyond the limits of Russian occu- pation we feel warranted, on account of its historic surroundings, in tracing its history to a conclusion in this chapter. As already stated. William Bennitz sold the Ross property in 1867. Charles Fairfax and a man named Dixon being the purchasers. They managed the property for a few years, when Fairfax died. In winding up the estate and business of the firm it became necessary to sell the property. J. W. Call be- came the purchaser of the upper and much the larger proportion of the ranch, on which stands the old Fort Ross buildings; and of the south- erly end Aaron Schroyer bought a large tract. These gentlemen are practical in their ideas of business and the property is now so handled as to yield a profit. After a lapse of twenty-seven years we visited Ross in October, 1888. We found a great change from conditions as they were when Bennitz lived there. Through the very center of the grounds once enclosed by a heavy stockade, now a county road runs. The Bennitz residence is converted into a public hotel, and a building once used as quarters for Russian officers is now a saloon. In an outside building is a store and postothice. The towers iu what was the diagonal corners of the fortress are now roofless, and, in consequence of the worm-caten condition of the logs are canting over, and it is only a question of time when they will topple to the ground. The Greek chapel yet stands creet with roof and belfry in fair preservation ; but is no longer used for holy purposes. Even the Russian cemetery to the south of the fort, that was quite plainly visible
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY
twenty-seven years ago is now nearly obliter- ated. Accompanied by Mr. Call we visited the old Russian orchard half a mile back from the fort. The fence made of heavy split boards by the Russians is still in fair preservation. We entered and plucked Spanish bellflower apples from trees planted by the Russians, back of 1820. The twenty or thirty apple, plum and prune trees yet standing are moss-covered and their bark honey-combed by the busy bills of birds. We went back still further and took a walk through the redwood forest of new growth that has sprung up from stumps of trees first eut by the Russians when they settled at Ross. Not over half a dozen of the old redwood forest trees are standing in the grove, and but for the fact that the stumps are there yet from
which the present forest sprang, we should not have recognized it as a forest growth of the present century. The trees have made marvel- ons growth. Having a pocket rule with us we measured a tree that was four and a half feet in diameter; and we were assured by Mr. C'all that there were trees in the grove full five feet in diameter. This grove is, doubtless, of from sixty to seventy-five years' growth. We are thus exaet and explicit in reference to this forest of new growth because we know there is a wide- spread fear that in consequence of the rapidity with which our redwood forests are being con- verted into lumber, that species of timber will ultimately become extinct. Right there, over- shadowing old Fort Ross. is the refutation of such fallacy.
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
MEXICO URGES COLONIZATION NORTH OF SAN FRANCISCO,
CHAPTER V.
GOVERNOR FIGUEROA, IN OBEDIENCE TO INSTRUCTIONS FROM MEXICO SETS ON FOOT A COLONIZATION ENTERPRISE - ATTEMPT TO ESTABLISH SETTLEMENTS AT PETALUMA AND SANTA ROSA IN 1833 -- THE ATTEMPT AT SANTA ROSA FAILED -- IN 1835 SONOMA WAS LAID OUT AS A PABLO AND MADE THE CENTER OF MILITARY POWER AND SECULAR COLONIZATION NORTH OF THE DAY -- VALLEJO AUTHOR- IZED TO OFFER COLONISTS GRANTS OF LAND- VALLEJO BECOMES A CONTROLLING POWER IN THE NORTH-HE MAKES AN ALLIANCE WITH INDIAN CHIEF SOLANO. AND HOLDS ALL OTHER INDIAN TRIBES IN SUBJECTION -- UNDER HIS MANAGEMENT THE MISSION SAN FRANCISCO SOLANO WAS SECULARIZED IN 1834-5 AND THE PROPERTY DISTRIBUTED AMONG THE NEOPHYTES-THE INDIANS WERE FREED FROM MISSION RULE AND MANY WENT BACK TO THEIR TRIBES-VALLEJO HAD TO WAR WITH SOME OF THE INDIAN TRIBES OCCASIONALLY, BUT THEY USUALLY WERE GLAD TO ENTER INTO AND ABIDE BY TREATY STIPULATIONS-IN 1835 THE SMALL-POX GOT AMONG THE INDIANS AND THOU- SANDS DIED- - ALONG IN THESE YEARS VALLEJO SEEMS TO HAVE BEEN ALLOWED TO MAINTAIN THE SONOMA MILITARY AT HIS OWN EXPENSE.
CHEAUDIA had become Governor of : California by appointment of the Mexican Government. Ile was ordered as early as in 1827 to establish a fort on the northern frontier, either at San Rafael or San Francisco Solano. The presence of the Russians at Ross doubtless inspired this order, and then such a post would not only be a notice to those Mus- covites that they must not venture further south, but would be a source of security and protection to the newly founded missions as well. The Governor had no funds to put in snecessful exeention the order. The next year he seems to have ordered a reconnoissance for a suitable place for a military station, but nothing further was done at that time.
The years had sped; California was rent with internal discord: the old missions had been
looted until they were fast going to ruin, and on the 14th of January, 1833. Figueroa arrived at Monterey, the newly appointed Governor. To evolve order out of chaos seemed to be his high resolve. Figueroa had received special instructions from the Mexican Government to push occupation and settlement of the northern frontier with energy. In obedience to these instructions Alferez Vallejo was ordered to make an exploration, select a site, and offer land to settlers. To aid in this work the old missions were expected to bear the principal expense. Either through inability or flagging zeal in be- half of a government that was always impeenni- ons, the padres did not respond to this new levy upon their resources. Vallejo, in obedience to orders, made a tour to Bodega and Ross. That fall Vallejo made an attempt to establish settle.
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
ments at Petaluma and Santa Rosa. Bancroft says: "Ten heads of families, fifty persons in all, agreed to settle at the former place (Peta- Inma), hitlerto unoccupied; but the padre at San Francisco Solano, hearing of the project, sent a few men to build a hut and place a band of horses at that point in order to establish a claim to the land as mission property. Two or three of the settlers remained and put in crops at Petaluma, Vallejo himself having ten bushels of wheat sown on his own account. The padre's representatives also remained, and the respective claims were left to be settled in the future. Much the same thing seems to have been done at Santa Rosa, where a few settlers went, and to which point the padre sent two neophytes with some logs as the nucleus of a mission claim. All this before January 8, 1834. In his speech of May Ist to the deputacion, Figneroa mentioned the plan for northern settlement, but said nothing to indicate that any actual progress had been made. The 14th of May, however, he sentenced a criminal to serve out his term of punishment at the new establishment about to be founded at Santa Rosa. In June the rancho of Petaluma was granted by the Governor to Vallejo, and the grant approved by the deputacion, this being virtually an end of the mission claim. Respect- ing subsequent developments of 1834 '5 in the Santa Rosa Valley, the records are not satisfac- tory; but Figueroa, hearing of the approach of a colony from Mexico, resolved to make some preparations for its reception, and naturally thought of the northern establishment, which he resolved to visit in person. All that we know positively of the trip is that he started late in August, extended his tour to Ross, ex- amined the country, selected a site, and having left a small force on the frontier, returned to Monterey the 12th of September. To these faets there may be added, as probably accurate, the statements of several Californians, to the effect that the site selected was where Vallejo's settlement and Solano neophytes had already erected some rude buildings, that the new place was named Santa Anna y Farias, in honor of the
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