USA > California > Sonoma County > An illustrated history of Sonoma County, California. Containing a history of the county of Sonoma from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time > Part 26
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Bodega is eighteen miles north of Petalnina, and located on Bodega Bay in the midst of a fine dairy country from which, with the fishing business, it derives its support. It boasts of a hotel, postoffice and express office.
Uluireille is located twenty three miles north- west from Santa Rosa on the line of the S. F. & N. P. R. R. It is in the midst of a farming and vine growing district. There are several wineries in the immediate neighborhood. It has a population of 150. Skaggs' Springs are six miles distant from this point with which communication is maintained by stage.
Clorendule .- Cloverdale is fourth in point of wealth and population amongst the towns of Sonoma County. It is the present terminus of the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad, and is distant thirty-three miles northwest of
Santa Rosa and eighty-four miles from San Fran- cisco. It is in the midst of a large and pro- dnetive region, and is the center of trade for the wool interest and extensive hop fields of this part of the country. The climate here is more bracing than in the southern portion of Sonoma, and is especially adapted to the growth of the hardier varieties of fruits. The popula- tion is about 1,400 and is steadily growing. The leading denominations have places of wor- ship with good congregations. All the leading secret and fraternal orders and societies have Hourishing organizations. Hotel accommoda- tions are good. The town is amply supplied with water furnished by the Cloverdale Water Company. Real estate is low, and the oppor- tunities offered to the settler are nnexcelled by those of other places. Stages leave here for Ukiah, Mendocino City, Eureka and other points on the North Coast, and for all points in Lake County and northern Napa. A railroad will, in a few months, connect it with Ukiah, Men- docino County. The Cloverdale Reveille ably advocates the interests of the community. It is published weekly.
Cozzens .-- A small burg located a few miles distant from llealdsburg. It has a population of 150 and is surrounded by a prosperons farm- ing and wine growing community. A saw mill is located here and a general merchandise store supplies the needed requirements of the village.
Duncan's Mills is located thirty miles north from Petaluma. It has communication with San Francisco by the North Pacific Coast .Rail- road. It is supported by important Inmber, dairy and stock raising interests. The Duncan's Mill's Land and Lumber Company saw mills are located here. The population is abont 250. The surrounding country is noted for its romantic and picturesque scenery, and abun- dance of game and fish. It is a favorite resor- for the tourist, the sportsman and for camping parties during the summer months. Stages leave here for all points in Mendocino and Hum- boldt connties.
Fisherman's Bay is located on the coast
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
above Fort Ross. A population of 200 is sup- ported by the farming interest and employment at the saw and shingle mills which are located here.
Fisk's Mills is a small village of about 150 population, in Salt Point Township, distant abont twelve miles north of Fort Ross. Com- munication is had with Duncan's Mills by stage.
Forestville is distant twelve miles northwest of Santa Rosa, on the S. F. & N. P. R. R. Large quantities of tan-bark are shipped from this point. A rustic chair factory is located here. The business community consists of a hotel, blacksmith shops and two general mer- chandise stores. The surrounding country is devoted to farming.
Fort Ross is a small settlement forty-two miles north of Petaluma. It contains many reminders of the early days when a Russian colony was located here. It is one of the old- est settlements on the northern coast of Califor- nia. The population is about 130, who are principally engaged in stock raising and farm- ing. It is connected with Duncan's Mills by stage.
Freestone is on the line of the North Pacific Coast Railroad. The population is about 175, supported by the dairying and farming carried on in the vicinity.
Fulton .- An ambitious and growing village on the line of the S. F. & N. P. R. R., four miles from Santa Rosa, is surrounded by a rich agricultural district. Considerable fruit is raised here. The population is 200, dependent upon the fruit and farming interests of the vicinity. From this place a branch of the S. F. & N. P. R. R. extends to Guerneville.
Geyser Springs are located sixteen miles from Cloverdale, from which place they are reached by stage. It is a noted health and pleas- ure resort. The numerous mineral springs in the vicinity are the chief attraction.
Guerneville .- The progressive and prosperous town of Guerneville is situated in the midst of a large lumber producing district, and is sur- rounded by forests of redwood; a branch of the
S. F. & N. P. R. R. has its terminus at this point. The town derived its name from one of its pioncer residents who is engaged in the large milling interests of the town. There are four extensive lumber mills located in the town, em- ploying a large number of men. The present population is variously estimated at from 750 to 900. As the forests are being cleared off the land is put under cultivation, prodneing fine crops of vegetables and cereals, and a large yield of fruit. The Korbel mills located about three miles up the Russian River, are the most exten- sive Inmber mills in the county. Considerable attention has of late been paid to the vine, and many acres have been set out. In addition to the Inmber mills, there is also a box factory and shingle mill in active operation. The prospects of this town are very bright. Its rapid growth and prosperity are assured.
Kellogg .- A summer resort, sixteen miles from Santa Rosa, with which it is connected by stage.
Lakeside is a thriving and growing village, twenty-two miles southeast of Santa Rosa. There are large farming, dairy and stock raising interests in the vicinity ; the population is about 150.
Litton Springs .- A noted health and pleas- nre resort, four miles from Healdsburg, on the S. F. & N. P. R. R. The water of the mineral springs located here is bottled and finds a mar- ket all over the State. The Litton Springs College is located at this point. The country in the neighborhood is rich and productive, and inviting to settlement.
Mark West is on the line of the S. F. & N. P. R. R. six miles north of Santa Rosa. The leading interests of the vicinity are farming, fruit and vine growing. The population is about 100. The surrounding country is rich and fertile and excellently adapted to the growth of vines and fruit.
Occidental .- This growing and prosperous town is located on the line of the North Pacific Coast Railroad, about thirty miles north of Peta- luma. Farming, fruit growing and Inumber
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
manufacturing are the principal industries in which the inhabitants are engaged. The popula- tion is 225.
Penn's Grove is a small settlement five miles north of Petaluma on the line of the S. F .. & N. P. R. R. It is in the midst of a large vine growing and wine producing distriet. The population is 125.
Timber Core is forty-five miles north of Petaluma, and has a population of 160. The occupation of the residents is mainly farming, stock raising, and dairying. It is known by the Post Office Department as Seaview.
Skaggs' Springs,-llas long been noted as a health and pleasure resort. twenty-nine miles dis- tant from Santa Rosa. A stage connects it with Clairville, six miles distant. The population is about 115, who are principally engaged in wool raising.
Smith's Runch, or more generally known as Bodega Roads, is twenty-five miles north of Petaluma, and is on the line of the North Paci- tie Coast Railroad. The people of the surround-
ing conntry are principally engaged in dairying and farming, from which their support is chiefly derived. The population is about is 250.
Stony Point-Is located seven miles north of l'etalnma in the midst of a large fruit, dairy and farming region. The population is about 200, in- elnding those residing in the immediate vicinity.
Valley Ford is one of the prosperous com- munities of Sonoma. It is on the line of the North Pacific Coast R. R., eighteen miles north of Petaluma. It boasts of a flouring mill. The population is about 250. It is supported by the large dairying, farming, and stock raising interest by which it is surrounded.
Windsor is another of the large and thrifty villages of Sonoma County. It is ten miles northwest of Santa Rosa, in the midst of a large farming and fruit growing section. There are many vineyards in the neighborhood and several nurseries. It has a population of 400. The village boasts of a brick manufactory, several fruit-drying establishments, and other industries of minor importance.
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
171
INDIAN MASSACRES.
CHAPTER XVIII.
ILI .- FATED, SONOMA COUNTIANS-DOCTOR SMEATHMAN-CANFIELD, VAN NOSTRAND AND BORTON BARNES- JUDSON, WOODWORTH, BAKER AND "OLD BENJAMIN"-LETHY-MRS. SALLIE ANN CANFIELD.
HE early American settlers of Sonoma County luckily escaped the dangers and bloody episodes of Indian warfare so com- mon to those who follow close upon the foot- steps of receding barbarism. Their immunity from these usual accompaniments of frontier life are traceable to three canses. As early as 1811, as has already been shown, the Rus- sians had secured a lodgment on this coast, and held real, if not undisputed, sway from Bodega Bay to the Gualala River. Those Mus- covites came, not only prepared with ample munitions of war to make their presence felt and respected, but they brought with them quite a little army of Kodiac Indians who, like all the Indians of the northern latitudes, were much superior in intelligence and physical courage to the dull apathetic Indians of Cen- tral California. Whatever there may be yet of unwritten history clustering around Fort Ross, it is quite probable that the shortest chapter would be that compassing the recital of Indian warfare against the Russians. Then, again, for several years by actual official occupancy, the California government had exercised complete
dominion over all the southern portion of the county and up the valleys, inland, as far north as the present site of Cloverdale. But there was another factor, the third and last, more effectual than the combined power of Spaniards and Russians in paving the way for a peaceable and bloodless occupation of this fair county by settlers, and that was the pestilence of 1837. Before its destroying breath, there is good reason to believe many thousand Indians per- ished within the territory now embraced in Sonoma, Marin, Napa and Solano counties. Where tribes were not entirely swept away, they were so reduced in numbers as to virtually put an end to organized tribal distinctions. Before they had time to rally from this broken and shattered condition, the tidal wave of ad- vancing civilization engulfed them. While the historian of Sonoma County is spared the re- cital of bloody and tragic deeds consequent upon civilization and barbarism meeting upon debatable grounds, they to whom shall fall the task of embalming in volunnes the histories of Mendocino and Humbolt counties will have to dip their pens deep in blood.
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
While the boundaries of Sonoma County was ever a shield to her citizens against danger from Indians, not a few wandered forth and fell vie- tims to Indian savagery elsewhere. It is due to the memory of such to give their names, and tragic manner of death, a place in this volume. They are given in elironological order. and with all the minuteness of time, place and attendant eiremmstances, at command.
In the early sixties Rev. H. O. G. Smeatlı- man was installed reetor of St. John's Episcopal Church, Petaluma. He was an Englishman by birth, and had a finished education, being a regular graduate of a medical college of the land of his nativity. He was a gentleman as unassuming and honorable as he was a Chris- tian kind and exemplary. In 1863 he resigned the rectorship of his church and went to the then, Territory of Nevada. Having a good knowledge of mineralogy he entered with zeal into the search for hidden lodes of silver which just then was the center of attraction to the mining world. He was in the habit of ventur- ing forth alone and penetrating the depths of solitary wilds. The following brief letter, signed "J. M. Case," and addressed to Mrs. Smeathman, tells the rest:
" STAR Crry, N. T., March 30, 1864. " MRS. SARAH SMEATAMAN, Dear Friend: " The party who went out to see after the remains of your husband have just returned. Although it stormed every day they were gone, they succeeded in finding his remains, numo- lested by any wild beasts or anything after the Indians left him. They found that he was shot by a rifle ball, entering the back of his head and coming out at his right eye. He had no other marks or bruises on his body, but his clothes were entireiy stripped from him and taken away. The party found it impossible to bring the remains in without a wagon and a coffin, but they buried him as well as they could, so that if it is still the wish of his friends to have him sent to California it can be done. but it will cost considerable."
Close following the ernel fate of the ill-starred
Dr. Smeathman, three more of Sonoma Conn- ty's sons, citizens of Bloomfield, fell vietims to savage atrocity, near the same place, and at the hands of the same Indians who killed the former. ITon. E. F. Dunne, a former Representative in the California Legislature from Sonoma County, in a letter of date, Star City, N. T., May 9, 1864, addressed to the " Wells Fargo Agent. Bloomfield," wrote as follows:
" We have had another Indian massacre here, and three of your townsmen are killed-H. B. Canfield, Perry Van Nostrand and J. W. Borton. E. M. Noble is shot in three places, and has almost miraculously escaped death, the slightest show that ever a man lived on in this world.
" The above named persons were on their way to Boise, and on Queen's River, distant about seventy-five miles from here, fell in with three persons who were out prospecting. They had stopped for dinner, and had turned their horses out to graze, having taken off the saddles. They were surprised by a band of sixty Indians who fired upon them from behind some rocks. It was certain death to attempt to run away on foot, so they made for their horses. Noble got his horse sooner than the rest and had him saddled, having only taken off the bridle, and might have escaped without a shot, but he turned and with a six shooter in each hand stood his ground and kept the whole band at bay till his eomrades should get their horses and saddle them. While standing thus he was struck in the neek with a ball, entering a little behind the left ear down below the hair, and coming ont about the middle of the back of the neck, barely missing the neek bone. A few moments later he was struck in the abdomen, on the left side, in the liucof the navel, some five inches dis- tant theretrom. Ile thinks both these shots were fired by the same marksman, as he noticed him taking sight. He watched for his appear- ance the third time, and as he showed his head above the rock behind which he was concealed, he fired at him, and thinks he hit him, as he saw him no more. But the boys were not ready yet, and he still stood his ground. He
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
was not knocked down by either shot. The others who were not yet killed, were now ready. But just as Noble was preparing to mount, he was struck again, escaping more wonderfully than before. The ball entered from the front, on the left side, striking right at the base of the pelvis and passing under it, came out a little back of the right hip joint, and yet apparently not injuring him in the least, further than the pain of a flesh wound. Canfield, Van Nostrand, and Borton, with Dodge one of the pros- pecting party, were already dead. The remain- ing two with Noble now jumped to their horses and escaped. The affair occurred Tues. day, May 3. The parties left struck for the Boise River trail, to get help to go back for the bodies, and met with Mr. Jordan (after whom Jordan Creek is named) and some men with him, some of whom took care of Noble, and Jordan and others with Gates (who was along and who, by the way, is an intimate friend of mine, and from whom I learn these particu- lars) went back to recover the bodies. But there had fallen fifteen inches of snow during the night and they could not find them, and the horses could not live, so they brought Noble down here, and a party will set out immediately from here to recover the bodies of the dead. Borton was killed the first shot. Canfield and Van Nostrand were hit. The broke from their horses and ran, and a number of Indians after them, and no more was seen of them. Dodge was killed on the second volley."
The Petaluma Argus, of same date in which the above appeared, said editorially :
" In another column will be found a letter from E. F. Dunne, Esq., giving an account of the murder, by Indians, of J. W. Borton, Perry Van Nostrand and Il. B. Canfield, of Bloom- field, in this county. J. W. Borton was, prior to the departure for the mines, our agent at Bloomfield; and when he bade us good-bye, we little dreamed that such an untimely fate was in store for him. Since Mr. Dunne's letter was placed in type we have received a cominnuica- tion from our Star City, Nevada Territory, corre-
spondent in relation to the same subject. The only apparent discrepancy between the two statements is in reference to Borton. We make the following extract from the communication of our correspondent: ' While Dodge was sad- dling his horse he received a shot in the head and died instantly. Gates had the presence of mind to grab the ammunition, and he, Noble and Kendall threw themselves on their horses and charged through the ranks of the savages who were fast closing around them, and under a perfect shower of balls and arrows-all their horses being pierced with several arrows each. Dodge was dead, Canfield and Van Nostrand dead or dying-while poor Borton was sitting where he was when shot-not even blessed with the sweet relief of a speedy death, with only his faithful watch-dog by his side, which, when last seen was determined to perish in defense of his dying master.'"
Cotemporaneous with the chronicling of the above bloody episode, the Argus contained the following brief mention :
" James D). Barnes, who used to reside in Two Rock Valley, in this county, and brother to Dr. T. L. Barnes, of this city, was killed by Indians near Areata, Humboldt County, California, on the fifth inst. He was out some three miles from home looking for horses when he was at- tacked and wounded twice, once in the shoulder and once in the back. lle succeeded in reach- ing home, but died soon after. He was buried by the Masonie fraternity, of which order he was a member."
Only eighteen months had run their course when another requisition was made upon the citizens of Bloomfield and Big Valley for blood to slake savage thirst- -- the treacherous Apaches of Arizona being the instrumentality. this time, of placing crape at the door of several Sonoma County homes. In the early part of 1866 there was much excitement over reported rich deposits of gold and silver in the Territory of Arizona. To every new field of mining ex- citement Sonoma County had furnished her full quota of seekers after the " golden fleece," and
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
many of them were in the vanguard of pros. f pectors lured to Arizona. Andrew Judson, Ira D. Woodworth and Metealf Baker, all from the neighborhood of Bloomfield, were beguiled by the stories of mines of almost fabulous rich- ness, to abandon the quiet pursuits of agricul- ture, and seek in Arizona a speedier road to wealth. After much prospecting they at length staked their chances upon a mineral ledge in Sacramento district, some distance from Hardy- ville in that Territory. In this mining enter- prise they had associated with them a Mr. Noodles and a man known by the sobriquet of " Old Benjamin." That they had earnest faith in the richness of their mine, is evidenced by the faet that through the stubborn rock they had excavated a shaft to the depth of about 100 feet. Whether mistaken or not as to the wealth of mineral below them, it can well be under- stood that in that desert place, surrounded by somber rocks that had been placed in their settings by the mighty forces of Nature, was, to then, centered much of hope and expectation in life. On the morning of the 29th of October. 1866. they repaired to their work, doubtless. little dreaming that they were under the shadow of an impending calamity. Andrew Judson (we knew him well from sunny boyhood up to estate of manhood) had been lowered to the dark depths of the shaft, while his companions stood ready to winze np the tub, as filled with rock below. Their horses were picketed in the flats close by, wherever forage was to be found. The first intimation they had that the treacher- ons Apaches lay concealed behind the rocks was the ringing report of rifles upon the morning air. Woodworth, Baker and "Old Benjamin " bit the dust, and Noodles. although shot through the body, made swift foot, and with knife in hand severed the picket rope of a horse, and vanlting npon his back, was the only one to escape to recount the tragic occurrence. Of the balance, human tongue never told, and only the recording angel knows what was the agony of poor Judson when his murdered companions, and jagged rocks, were tumbled down the shaft
upon him by ernel Apache hands. That now deserted shaft, hewn down through roek, will perpetnate the story of one of Arizona's most tragie scenes.
When calamity came to Sonoma citizens abroad, at the hands of Indians, the first seems always to have presaged the swift coming of another. In less than two months from the oc- enrrence above narrated the Argus chronicled the following:
"There appears to be a singular fatality that marks citizens of this county as victims of the hatred and fiendish barbarity of the Indians of adjacent territories. Only a few weeks since we chronieled the killing of three of our citizens in Arizona Territory, and again we are pained by the intelligenee that another of our citizens has fallen a victim to the treaeherons foe. G. W. Leihy, of this city, Indian agent for Arizona, and H. C. Everts, his clerk, were, while on the road from Prescott to La Paz, on the 18th of November, killed by the Indians, and their bodies subjected to all the atrocities peculiar to savage barbarity. Mr. Leihy was a resident of this county; and his wife and only child have resided in this city during his absenee in Arizona. * We knew him well, and esteemed him highly as a gentleman and friend. Only a few months since he visited our office, and gave ns much valuable information about Arizona; and when he bade us good-by we lit- tle thought that we would so soon be called upon to chronicle his death, under circumstan- ces so painful.
.. Since the above was placed in type, the fol- lowing letter, written by Mr. J. H. Stewart, who used to reside near Petaluma, has been handed us for publication :
"'SAN BERNARDINO, Dec. 3, 1866.
" .. MRS. SARAH LEIDY-Dear Madam :- 1 have a task to perform, the most unpleasant of my life. I have been putting it off for two days, and during that time I have scarcely slept at all; the news has fairly stunned mne. George is dead-killed by the Indians, as also his clerk, Mr. Everts. They were killed this side of
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HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
Prescott, at a place called Bell's Cañon, the same place that Mr. Bell and Mr. Sage were killed last year. They were traveling alone with two Indians; one of them was his old ser- vant, the other was one of the River Indians. who was taken prisoner at Skull Valley this sunmer. It is supposed that they were attacked by a large number of Indians. I have got my news from men that I am acquainted with. They left Prescott two days after Mr. Leihy left, and came to the ground two days after the murder and saw his grave. They were buried by one citizen and some soldiers. They knew Mr. Leihy. He had left their camp about an hour, when the mule that Mr. Everts rode came back to camp. They then followed on and found them dead. They took them near the station and buried them. The two Indians who were with them have not been found. The Indians killed one of George's horses and cut all the meat off of it and took the other with them. They also burned his carriage and de- stroyed or carried off all that he had with him. You may hear of his death before you get this -I hope that I may not be the first to break the dreadful news to you, but I thought you would rather hear some of the particulars from me. I probably know more in regard to his affairs than any one else, and I wish you to communicate with me freely and I will do all for you that I can.'"
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