USA > California > Sonoma County > An illustrated history of Sonoma County, California. Containing a history of the county of Sonoma from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time > Part 20
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47 | Part 48 | Part 49 | Part 50 | Part 51 | Part 52 | Part 53 | Part 54 | Part 55 | Part 56 | Part 57 | Part 58 | Part 59 | Part 60 | Part 61 | Part 62 | Part 63 | Part 64 | Part 65 | Part 66 | Part 67 | Part 68 | Part 69 | Part 70 | Part 71 | Part 72 | Part 73 | Part 74 | Part 75 | Part 76 | Part 77 | Part 78 | Part 79 | Part 80 | Part 81 | Part 82 | Part 83 | Part 84 | Part 85 | Part 86 | Part 87 | Part 88 | Part 89 | Part 90 | Part 91 | Part 92 | Part 93 | Part 94 | Part 95 | Part 96 | Part 97 | Part 98 | Part 99 | Part 100 | Part 101 | Part 102 | Part 103 | Part 104 | Part 105 | Part 106 | Part 107 | Part 108
that carried a ball but a size larger than a buck- shot, caused him to let all holds go and drop to the earth, but did not prevent his flight. Hunter number two, to use his own language. ' shot at the dust bruin kicked up,' but with no other effect than to accelerate his speed down the mountain.
"At the end of the week the . smoke house' we had extemporized was filled to overflowing with smoked venison, and we decided to move camp to 'Bear Ridge,' eight miles distant. hoping there to gratify our penchant for bear hunting, as we had already began to regard deer as rather small game. We did not take our departure from Buckeye without regret, and the week we spent there will always be looked back to by us as an oasis in life's desert, There is much in that region well calculated to arouse the enthusiasm of descriptive writers, but as we have neither space nor talent we consign the task to some more facile pen. The most prom- inent land-mark in that region is the . Rock Pile,' three miles west of Buckeye, it being a conical shaped mountain formed of massive rocks, and entirely destitute of vegetation. It both serves as a guide to hunters, and stands sentinel over a grave at its base, where rests an unfortunate adventurer, who was murdered by an Indian two years sinee.
"On our arrival at Bear Ridge, we found. as at Buckeye, an untenanted cabin, of which we took possession: but there was a history con neeted therewith that was recorded with the crimson current of life upon the floor and rude bed in the corner, that for a time cast a shadow over our party. Our guide informed us that about six months previous two men not resi- dents there, were hunting on the ridge - that one was shot by the accidental discharge of his rifle, the ball tearing off one of his hands and entering his side. He was borne to the cabin and a surgeon sent for from Healdsburg. Ilc lingered thirty hours, and the surgeon arrived just in time to see him breath his last. Beneath the witte spread branches of a chestnut-oak. a short distance from the cabin, he sleeps his last .
128
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
long sleep. Removing, as far as possible, all traces of the unfortunate sufferer. we veenpied the cabin four days. As yet, we had failed to sight a bear on Bear Ridge, although we had added the carcasses of several deer to our larder. Our ease was becoming a desperate one, for we had baked the last of our flour, and worse still. our supply of tobacco was exhausted. It was Saturday morning. and we debated the pro- priety of subsisting upon meat alone for one day, rather than enter Healdsburg on Sabbath even- ing; but tobacco turned the seale, and it was voted to pack up and start. when it was dis- covered that one of our horses had deeamped during the night. By means of a trail made by a pieket rope attached to the horse it was dis- covered that it had taken an opposite direction from the trail by which we had entered, and three of our party started in pursuit. After an absence of two hours they returned, not only having the good fortune to find the horse, but having shot a deer and also a large brown bear. This streak of good luck was hailed with delight by all, for it had not only enabled our company to return with a bear skin as a trophy of the chase, but quieted the nerves of individual members who disliked to return to their . lady . loves' without the promised bottle of . bar's ile,' with which to anoint their raven or golden locks, as the case might be. We had achieved the object of our party,-our success was equal to our anticipations, and loaded down with venison, we commenced our homeward march. Before bidding a final adieu to Bear Ridge. we wish to note the existence on that and surrounding ridges of a species of timber we had supposed did not exist in California, we refer to the old-fashioned chestnut. The fruit is not yet ripe, but the ground under some of the trees is covered with burs that have been detached by the wind and birds. Some of the trees are two feet in diamater and remarkably tall, which to our mind precludes the idea. as sug- gested by some, of their being . ehincapins.' We halted at Flat Ridge, and were laid under lasting obligations to a resident stoekman, who
shared with us his tobacco and Hour. We will ever hold him in grateful remembrance, and may his shadow never grow less. As we had to make a forced march in order to reach Healdsburg that night, we were in the saddle bright and early. and had soon surmounted a ridge from which we had a last view of our hunting grounds. Here our attention was called to a large madrone tree, close to the trail, upon which were earved various initials, which were almost obliterated by the growth of the tree; but high up and in legible characters, was inscribed 1841. As we rode onward. we could not but contrast the present California with the California of 1841, and wonder if they who left their record ou the madrone tree have been spared to witness the change. As we drew near to Healdsburg the cravings of appetite increased our desire to patronize . mine host ' of the Sotoyome; but again we were doomed to disappointment in Ilealdsburg; for the Sotoy ome and many other buildings had crumbled before that ruthless element that has prostrated so many of California's fair villages; and so complete had been our isolation, that a week had elapsed since it was destroyed, and yet we had no intimation of the veenrrence until we entered the village. In the absence of a hotel, we resorted to a restaurant, and if the propri- etor made a profit on that meal, we are inelined to believe he will get rich, for seven hungrier men never entered that burg. We returned to l'etaluna after an absence of sixteen days, feel- ing refreshed and rejuvenated by our camp life. In conclusion we will say to those afflicted with the dyspepsia, or any other fashionable disease, try Buckeye Camp two weeks, and if it does not effect a cure, why then prepare, for your end draweth nigh."
Such was the experiences of the writer twenty-eight years ago in the regions described : and yet, long after he has passed away the sharp report of the sportsman's rifle will ring through those same forests, for those dark eañons and chap- arral covered mountains will ever afford a safe retreat and breeding-ground for wild animals.
129
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
THE COUNTY DEVELOPING.
CHAPTER XIII.
IMMIGRATION POURS INTO SONOMA COUNTY-EVERY NOOK AND CORNER OF THE COUNTY OCCUPIED-
THE COUNTRY BETWEEN PETALUMA AND BODEGA FRUITFUL OF POTATOES, BARLEY, WHEAT AND OATS -SANTA ROSA AND RUSSIAN RIVER VALLEYS PRODUCTIVE OF WHEAT AND CORN-THE YEAR 1864-LAND TROUBLES-THE BODEGA WAR -THE HEALDSBURG WAR-THE MULDREW SHADOW- THE MIRANDA GRANT THE BOJORQUES GRANT.
P' to 1855 Sonoma County was in a condi- tion of confused transition from almost native wilds to permanent civilized occu- pancy. While the county was largely covered by Spanish grants. yet the holders of such, as a class, had not yet acquired flocks and herds to oceupy their broad acres, and the adventurous Americans very often located within the lines of such grants with as little reverence as though settling upon government land. The grant holders, as a class, had little idea of land value, and many of them were willing to accept from settlers on their domain very moderate prices for the land. Many, if not most of the settlers, got their land at prices not much above what they would have had to pay had it been govern- ment land. There were exceptions, however, to this rule, and in a few instances there was con- siderable frietion and trouble between settlers and grant owners, but this will be referred to later on.
About 1855 a tidal-wave of immigration seemed to sweep over Sonoma County, and it was really a marvel how soon every nook and corner of the county available for farming or grazing was ferretted out and occupied. It was now families
seeking homes who came, and following their coming school-houses and churches began to multiply. In truth, within the space of a few years, Sonoma County became one of the most prosperous agricultural counties of the State. At first, famous for her Bodega potatoes, she soon took first rank among the grain-growing and dairying counties in the State,
In the space of a few years towns and villages came forward with marvelous growth. Peta- Inma as a shipping point made rapid strides. Santa Rosa as the county seat was making sub- stantial progress. Healdsburg, where in 1854 had been but a residence and blacksmith shop, became a thriving village, and Cloverdale began to show evidence of its future destiny. Sonoma, ever famous as a center around which clustered historie memories, became far-famed for her productive veneyards. Bodega, old in her de- velopment there in connection with Russian occupation, took a new lease of life, and Bodega Bay was whitened by a fleet of sails that carried her products to the San Francisco market. Bloomfield surrounded by as fertile a country as the sun ever sone upon became the center of a populous and prosperous farming district.
130
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
In those days the fatness was exuding from the soil of Sonoma County, and the erops gathered therefrom were abundant to the full measure. While the growing of potatoes coast- wise, commencing with Two Rock Valley and extending to Bodega was yet a large industry. the growing of wheat, barley and oats soon took precedence and became a source of great profit to farmers. Farming of whatever kind, whether the growing of potatoes or cereals was usually condueted on a large scale. Fifty or a hundred acres of potatoes was not considered a large plant, and of grain it was no uncommon thing for a farmer to plant any where from one to three hundred aeres, and a large farmer often went far beyond this. Our favorable sea- cons for seeding and planting of such vast crops was made easy by the improvements in farming implements, but the gathering of such vast crops often taxed to its utmost capacity the labor attainable. For potato digging, the rem- nant of the almost extinct Indian tribes of this region were brought into requisition, and be- came quite effective aids in farming. The writer once had in employ twenty two Russian River Indians, and found them excellent potato diggers. During the season of gathering potatoes these dusky children of nature used to perform a large portion of that kind of labor. But the vices of civilization was fast thinning their ranks, and in the course of years Chinese labor stepped in and did the main portion of the drudgeries of farm work.
-
The main valleys through the center of the county, Petaluma. Santa Rosa and Russian River were always devoted mainly to the grow- ing of grain. The wealth of grain produced by the virgin soil of these rich valleys is almost incalculable. Russian River Valley in a very carly day proved its worth as a eorn producing region, and in later years became famous for the production of hops. A writer some years ago drew the following pen picture of the Rus- sian River Valley:
" For more than sixty miles in length Russian River before taking its final westerly course to-
ward the ocean. perambulates from Mendocino County southerly through one of the widest and truly alluvial valleys in the State. As a corn growing country it is probably without a rival on the Pacific coast. and a good corn country ean always be relied upon as suitable for a large share of the staple products of tem- perate elimes.
" We see, therefore, along this great alluvial belt. the whole family of cereals cultivated with singular success, and in the main quite free from smut. or injury from climatic influence. As far as any attempts have been made to grow fruit. it succeeds admirably. Along the bor- ders of the valley, at the foot of the range of hills that bound it on either side. the vine flourishes luxuriantly, producing grapes of fair size and a favor of peculiar richness; and we cannot but believe that the time is near at hand when the acres of vineyards along this great valley may be counted by hundreds. if not thousands. What the effect of climate may be upon the health of vines and fruit trees along the more central portions of the valley, remains to be seen. Of the indigenous forest trees, the decid- uous oak predominates largely ; and throughout nearly the entire extent of the valley may be seen this monarch of our lowland forests, in its wide- spreading, but varied and beautiful forms, standing apart and alone, or clustered in beauti- ful groups of a seore or more upon a single . acre: and though at this season of the year without a single leat, all are draped in their beautiful pale green, mossy livery, that, pendu- lous from every twig and limb, imparts a mel- lowed softness to the breeze, that alike in summer and winter gently sweeps along the valley."
Taking the decade-and-a-half between 1855 and 1870, farming in Sonoma County achieved its greatest results. Of course, there were variableness of seasons and prices. but taken as a whole the results were more than highly satis- factory. In the single season of 1864 the farmers literally gathered a harvest of gold. That year the whole southern portion of Cali-
131
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
fornia was made barren by a drought. Here the erops were good, and wheat was sold at all the way from three to four and-a-half cents per pound. Even renters, who had put in large erops on shares, found themselves comparatively rich at the end of the season.
The productiveness of our farms and the ae- cumulating wealth from dairy products and stoek-raising were promotive of other industries and created in the people a desire for advance from the primitive surroundings that had marked their early-life struggles. Ornate coun- try homes began to multiply, and the county from end to end began to show the evidences of permaneney and solidity. This was not con- fined to the large valleys along the line of lead- ing thoroughfares; in every little gem of a valley, sandwiched in among the hills and moun- tains, there was manifested a growing taste in the direction of more comfort and convenience in home surroundings.
This advancement was made in the face and teeth of difficulties and discouragements seldom encountered by the pioneer settlers of any other country. As has already been stated, many of the settlers went upon lands claimed as Spanish grants, but of which the titles had not yet been adjudicated by the United States Government. In the early fifties a commission, consisting of three members, had been appointed to investi- gate these titles, and only such as passed mus- ter under their examination got standing in court, and were started on the tortuous way to the court of final resort at Washington City. The genuineness of title to many of these grants were of very fishy odor. Under the treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo the United States Govern- ment had plighted its faith to give due credence to all genuine grants made by duly aceredited authority of the Mexican government. This the government certainly did to the full measure. Elsewhere is published a list of the Spanish grants that in whole, or in part, fell within the lines of Sonoma County. We have also pointed out the evidences of permanent habitation within the boundaries of the county at the time Sonoma 9
was captured. It was for the courts, and not the historian, to pass upon the validity of these grants. If there was wholesale perjury in- dulged in to seeure many confirmations, that is now a matter between the consciences of wit- nesses and their God. It is now all happily passed, and all land titles are in perfect repose. All now bow to the rule, Stare decisis.
But it is the province of history to reeite events the outgrowth of these conflicting land titles. There were numerous "Settlers' Leagues" organized to resist the confirmation of many of these grants. Lawyers were always to be found who would, for a liberal fee, give " squatters " on grants positive assurance that the grant was fraudulent and that he could " knock the bottom out of it." These leagues, in many instances, became secret conclaves, with all the pass-words arid paraphenalia of seeret organizations. That they should ultimate in resistance to legally constituted authorities was but natural. And even the claimants of grants sometimes were guilty of the assumption that they were higher than the law. While there had been a great deal of friction between settlers and grant hold- ers the first serions collision occurred at Bodega. There was no end of land troubles in Sonoma County, growing out of occupation by settlers on what was believed to be fraudulent Spanish grants. This led to a great deal of trouble, and ultimately to resistance to the mandates of law. To give the reader a elear conception of the real temper and feeling of the publie at that time on this momentons question we give the language of an editorial which appeared in the Petaluma Journal of February 18, 1859:
"It is boldly asserted that there are eighty land grants in this State, which can be proved to have been forged and sworn thus far through the courts by perjury. They lie it is stated, in twenty-seven counties, and cover the homes of nearly 5,000 settlers. Whether there are any located in this county, we are not informed. It would be a strange transaction if there are not. Our location, and the well-known richness of soil, would certainly be a strong bait to tempt
132
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
the palate of the greedy land cormorants who have perpetrated these wholesale frauds. It therefore becomes all well-meaning and right- thinking citizens to join with their brethren of San Francisco, in the work of ferreting out and exposing these frandulent grants. To this end let every person remonstrate against the passage. by the Assembly, of the iniquitous and unjust resolution which was spawned by Senator Will- iams. petitioning Congress for the passage of a law to prevent reviews in cases where patents have issued; or in other words asking of Con- gress to sereen the actual robber, and protect the receiver of stolen property under the name of . bona fide purchasers and encumbrancers.' Where, we ask, ean a parallel be found to this aet? Rob and defraud Uncle Sam of the public domain and then ask him to desist from investi- gation, the object of which is to prove the theft: and all because the receiver of stolen goods may be a sufferer ! As infamous as are the inten- tions of Mr. Williams' move, we nevertheless see the Senate passing favorably upon it. If we mistake not, our own representative in that body was among its supporter. A knowledge of the unscrupulous intentions of these landgrabbers' has clearly diselosed to settlers the precipice over which they are being ruthlessly hurried. A just and proper spirit of resistance to the attempt is beginning to manifest itself in vari- ous sections. Meetings are being held, reso- lutions of disproval of Mr. Williams' . substi- tute ' passed. and Anti-Grant Leagnes formed. If moderation and temperance of action pre- dominate, as we trust will be the case, immense good will result to the people at large. The recent developments in the Santillan elaim, is conclusive evidence of this fact. Let a union of action be made and time and investigation will rend the screen that now obscures and darkens the homes of scores of the people of California. We shall look with confidence to our representa- tives in the Assembly, to aid in arresting the passage of the resolution by that body."
In continuance of the same subject the Jour- nul of February 25, 1859, said:
" By reference to another column, it will be seen that the people in this locality are begin- ning to move in the work of exposing the alleged land frauds, and of heading General Williams and Judge Baldwin in their infamous attempt to rob and despoil the people of California. In the eagerness of these pliant tools of Limantour, Fremont, etc .. to do the bidding of their heart- less and unscrupulous masters, they have moved in so bold and hasty a manner as to neglect that precantion so necessary to successful villainy- the covering up and secreting of all evidence of evil intent. The object sought is too obvious to pass unnoticed by the most obtuse. As a natural consequence, this course on the part of the land claimants, has aroused a just and pro- per spirit of opposition on the part of the people. The final result of this struggle, will. we believe. be the securing to the public domain of leagues upon leagues of land now claimed by land sharpers under forged titles. That many of these fraudulent claims are located on this side of the bay, we are told there no longer exists a donbt. Justice then demands that our people move with a united effort in exposing these frands.
"A brief reference to the land-claim history of California, presents some startling facts. In the year 1849 William Cary Jones was sent to Cali- fornia by the authorities at Washington, with instructions to ascertain the number and extent of Spanish land grants. In his report he states the result of his investigation to be the dis- covery of five hundred and seventy-six grants, large and small, several of which was unfinished. Of this number, several were afterward proved fraudulent and rejected. Upon the establish- ment of the land commission, no less than eight hundred and thirteen claims were filed in before it for action ! A writer in the _fltu, asserts that Mr. Jones informed him that after he had returned to Washington. he was offered $20.000 to insert in his report one grant-fraudulent of course, and for which they wished a record in order to give it some show of validity ! Com- ment is unnecessary. The facts alone tell the
133
HISTORY OF SONOMA COUNTY.
whole story, and bid our citizens to be up and doing."
The first of these conflicts over land titles that assumed a very threatening aspect was in June of 1859, and the scene of the disturbance was Bodega ranch. The following in a state- ment of the case and what occurred as found in the Sonoma County Journal of June 3d, 1859:
THE BODEGA WAR.
"The original grantee of this ranch was Cap- tain Stephen Smith, who claimed by grant eight leagues of land, which amount was con- firmed to him by the Board of Land Commis- sioners. He then leased to Bethuel Phelps & C'o. the right to cut and manufacture into lum- ber the red-wood belonging to the said eight leagues of land, for a term of ninety-nine years, for the sum of $65,000. Phelps & Co., imme- diately took possession of the lands so leased, and still continue in possession of the same. After setting apart to Phelps & Co. their leased portion of the claim, there was left a large traet of agricultural lands outside of said eight leagues, elaimed by no one, which was then set- tled upon and divided up into quarter sections. Thus matters stood at the death of Captain Smith. We would here state, that various sur- veys have been made from time to time by dif- ferent parties and among them one by Clement Cox, United States Deputy Surveyor, in accord- ance with which the grant was finally patented. Some time after the death of Captain Smith, Mr. Curtis married the widow of Captain Smith, and became administrator of the estate and guardian of the minor heirs. thus becoming a party interested in the dispute.
"Some three months since, Mr. Tyler Curtis, on behalf of himself and the heirs of Captain S. Smith, obtained judgment on a writ of ejeet- ment (by default) against forty-eight of the settlers on the Bodega ranch. The writ of ejectment and restitution required the sheriff to dispossess the settlers, and keep possession for sixty days. On Tuesday evening the sheriff, unaccompanied by any one, went to Bodega
intending to execute the writ on Wednesday morning.
"On Tuesday evening Mr. Curtis, accom- panied by Mr. Nuttman, of San Francisco, and forty-eight men, arrived here and immediately took passage in coaches for Bodega, where they arrived at five o'clock on Wednesday morning. The citizens of Petaluma, being ignorant of all the proceedings in the case were at a loss to know the why and the wherefore of this great influx of armed men; and, failing to get satis- factory replies to their interrogatories, further than that the party were bound for ,Bodega, were at once led to suppose that the crowd had been brought here for the purpose of taking for- cible possession of Bodega ranel. By nine o'clock in the evening the excitement ran high, and about twenty men, armed and accoutred, started for the scene of action, arousing all the settlers as they passed along, who at once joined them, to render aid to their brethren, if found necessary. A messenger had been promptly dispatched to Bodega to inform the settlers on that ranch of what was going on. He reached there at midnight, and found them entirely ignorant of the movements of Mr. Curtis and his satelites. So rapid and prompt were their movements that by the time Curtis' . fighting men' had arrived some eighty or ninety set- tłers had collected, which number, by nine o'clock, A. M .. was augmented to 250 or 300.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.