An illustrated history of Sonoma County, California. Containing a history of the county of Sonoma from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time, Part 19

Author: Lewis Publishing Company
Publication date: 1889
Publisher: Chicago, The Lewis Publishing Company
Number of Pages: 786

USA > California > Sonoma County > An illustrated history of Sonoma County, California. Containing a history of the county of Sonoma from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time > Part 19

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Keyes, Tomales; Dr. T. Ilendley, Santa Rosa; D. D. Carder, Col. J. B. Ilewie, P. R. Thomp- son, and J. Thompson Hnie, Vallejo Township; I. G. Wickersham, S. (. Haydon, and O. T. Baldwin, of Petaluma.

The following is made up from the last two numbers of Volume I of the Journal-the ro- speetive dates being August 9 and 16, 1856: At three o'clock on the morning of August 4th, a two-story fire-proof building on Main street, (occupying ground upon which now stands the northern portion of Phoenix Block) fell to the ground and was almost a complete ruin. The building was owned by Gowen & McKay, and was occupied on the first floor by L. Chapman as a furniture store, and on the second by the Odd Fellows and Masons. The front of the building fell into the street and the north side npon the adjoining wooden building. owned and occupied by S. C. Haydon as a drug store, completely demolishing the building and de- stroying the goods. The south wall slid down an embankment into the cellars in the two ad- joining lots, the excavating of which caused the catastrophe. Mr. Haydon narrowly escaped being killed. The following names were ap- pended to a call for a Republican mass conven- tion to be held at Petaluma, on August 20. 1856, the first convention called by that party in Sonoma County: J. Chandler, S. W. Brown, M. Ames, M. Himman, J. N. Newton, A. C. Salter, L. Chapman, J. E. Fowler, J. Palmer, O. T. Baldwin, W. D. Bliss, L. M. Judkins, George Harris, (). Walker, J. F. Reed, John Fritsch, JJ. II. Masten, G. Warner, F. J. Benja- min, Hiram Luce, N. O. Stafford, G. C. Trues- dell, Joel Merchant, (. 1I. Lovett, Jacob Gilbert, John Wells. C. P. Hatch, J. L. Pickett, W. G. Gibbs, F. C. Davis, R. Douglass, G. W. Mower, W. C. Conley, G. W. Barnard, William Zart- man, John J. Lind, G. Barry, E. Linn, Phile- mon Hill, Freeman Parker, J. D. Thompson.

With its issue of the 16th of Angust, 1856. the Journal elosed the first year of its existence. This chapter culled from its columns, as con- fnsed and broken-jointed as it is, will not be

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devoid of interest to those of our pioneers still left, for in it is the names of a very large pro- portion of those who helped to lay the founda- tion of Sonoma County's greatness and prosperity -many of whom have aheady passed over the summit, to the illimitable vales of the hidden beyond.

THE GEYSERS IN 1556.

As an adendum to this record of 1855-'56, as collated from the first volume of the Journal. we ean fitly append the following, descriptive of the country and the Geyser Springs as seen in 1856. The writer, in company with G. W. Reed, afterward a representative in the Califor nia Legislature from Sonoma County, traveled from Two Rock Valley to the Geysers. We rode California mustangs, as at that time there was only a bridle trail to the Geysers. Then Major Ewing was the proprietor of those springs and the buildings were all of canvas. Mr. Reed (long since deceased), who had been onr companion in the mines, wrote for the Sonoma County Journal the following sketch of our trip: " Ho, for the Geysers!" shonted my friend. " Aye, for the Geysers," was the hearty re sponse. A few minutes hasty preparation and we bade adien to our friends, sprang into our saddles and soon were galloping over the hills at a break-neck speed. The morning was bean- tiful. A cloudless sky and a refreshing breeze lent additional splendor to the scenery, and imparted buoyancy and elasticity to our spirits. Our horses canght a spark of the enthusiasm that burned in the heart, and beamed from the eyes of their riders. Giving them the rein they bore us rapidly over the undulating hills in the vicinity of the Two Rocks, till, descending a narrow defile, we entered the beautiful valley of Santa Rosa. Here, shaded by the wide-spread- ing oaks, planted by the hand of nature to adorn this lovely valley, and refreshed by the breeze that played among their branches, onr horses sprang forward with redoubled speed, and as we glided rapidly along, the sturdy old oaks appeared to be whirling in a giddy danee. Everything was beauty and animation. Numer-

ons herds of horses and cattle were seen on every side; some luxuriating on the rich pastur- age, and others ruminating in the cool shade, with an air of calm enjoyment. Occasionally the outlines of a neat white cottage, indistinctly seen through the dark, green foliage of a thick clump of oaks, threw yniet home-like appear- ances over the whole scene. Delighted with the beanties of the valley, we deviated from our direct course, and arrived at the village of Santa Rosa, at 4 o'clock r. M., and halted for the night. "Santa Rosa has a pleasant situation, and the buildings look neat and attractive. In the morning we started early. An hour's ride brought us to a low range of hills, passing through which, we entered the valley of Rus- sian River, which in appearance is not less animated and beautiful than Santa Rosa. Tra- veling np the valley, three hours' ride brought us to the Mountain Honse, here we halted for refreshments. At this point, the road leading to the Geysers turns into the mountains. After resting an hour, we commeneed the ascent of the mountain. The road is good, and the ascent was easy. We soon stood upon the summit of Bald Will. Certainly not a very poetical name. yet I doubt whether many of the mountains, famons in history and classic literature, can present a view so full of beanty and sublimity. Arriving at the summit of this mountain, the valleys of Santa Rosa and Russian River lay like a map at our feet. The country which we had so much admired during our ride, was now all presented at a single view, and we stood gaz- ing on the scene spread ont before ns, in mnte admiration.

" Reared upon the fertile bosom of the ‘ prai- ried west,' from our earliest chiklhood we have been aeenstomed to contemplate the untarnished beanties of nature, but never before did our eyes rest upon a landscape that excited sneh lively emotions, as the one now at our feet. The broad expanse of the fertile valley, covered with rich grass of a gollen tint, and variegated by groves of spreading oaks, apparently artistieally arranged, through which the river wound its

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serpentine course, with its bright crystal waters sparkling in the sunlight, contrasted finely with the dark cloud of fog that obsenred the more elevated hills in the background. The whole gorgeously illuminated by the rays of the declining snn, reminded us of Addison's descrip- tion of the ' Happy Isles' that are to be the · abode of good men after death.'

" This delightful valley, destined to be the happy home of thousands, is but sparsely popu- lated, and its resources undeveloped. But the tide of immigration is setting thitherward. The busy hum of the industrions pioneers will soon be heard in the valley; and at the first wave of the potent wand of the Anglo-Saxon race, the earth will yield her abundance; fields of grain will wave gracefully in the breeze, and cottages, school houses and churches, will spring up to adorn our land; the merry voice of happy chil- dren will echo through the valley, and a pros- perons community, happy in the enjoyment of civil and religious liberty, will thank heaven that they have found a home in this fair region.

" From this point the road is rough and im- passible for carriages. The scenery suddenly changes, and nature puts on her . rudest form.' The mountains rear their bold, rugged fronts athwart the traveler's way, like colossal embattle- ments, looking in this magnificent display of nature's wonders, to impede the advaneing steps of the adventurous intruder. Not aware of the diffienlties we had to enconnter, we lingered too long by the way, and night spread her dusky mantle o'er the mountains, while the most ditti- enlt part of the journey was yet to be made, After a laborious march, at eight o'clock in the evening, very much fatigued, and with the ardor of our enthusiasm somewhat abated, we arrived at our destination. The hearty welcome and generous hospitality of the proprietors soon rendered us forgetful of our fatignes, and re- stored our usual good spirits. After a hearty supper and a pleasant chat, we retired to our room, and forgetful alike of pain or pleasure, soon yielded to the sweet embrace of the sleepy god. "With the earliest dawn, we sprang from our

conch, and sallied forth with eager enriosity to take our first peep at the Geysers. We found ourself on a bench or Hat in the side of the mountain. In. front, and two hundred feet below, was a rocky canon, while above ns, on either side, the mountains rose to the height of a thousand feet, with their tops gilded with the first rays of the morning sun, while twilight lingered in the depths below. Dense elouds of steam, impenetrable to the eye, obsenred the opposite slope, and a loud stimning noise like steam escaping from a hundred boilers, echoed through the hills. Descending into the canon, we climbed up through a narrow chasm in the rock, and truly stood in a " theatre of wonders." On either side, the rocks rose abruptly, and steam whistled through every crevice, while under our feet we could hear the gurgling . sound of the boiling fluid. The whole monn- tain appeared to tremble as though it floated on the surface of a boiling lake. From an eleva- tion of two or three hundred feet, down to the bed of the stream that flows through the cañon. boiling water and jets of steam are issning through the fissures of the rock. A grander exhibition of the wonderful in nature is seldom seen. Its contemplation awes the heart by a conscious presence of superior powers, and involuntarily turns the mind to reflect upon the power and wisdom of the Great Author of the universe. Innumerable ages, buried in the oblivion of the past, have run their course sinee these boiling fountains first burst through the rocky barriers of the mountain. Countless years rolled away, while their sublime thunder echoed through the dreary solitude, unheard by the ear, or nnapproached by the footstep ot civilized man. But henceforth the invalid, the devotee of pleasure, and the idle and enrions of every land, will flock thither ; . silks rustle, jewels shine,' and fashion's gay, heartless throng, will move to and fro, as though their ephemeral pleasure were as eternal as the hills."

Mr. Reed, who penned the above, has long since crumbled to dust, and yet how prophetic his words! Of those who have visited those

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same geysers and marveled at the wonders of nature's laboratory, how many, after fretting np and down life's stage for a brief period, have passed on, and that they ever lived is only evidenced by a slab of "dull cold marble?"

THE PETALUMA HUNTERS.

In the fall of 1860, the writer in company with six boon companions spent about half a month hunting on the boundary line between Sonoma and Mendocino counties. The following is his description of the country and the adven- tures of his party written at the time for the Sonoma County Journal:

" In life there is no enjoyment howe'er it may abound, Like bunting through the woodlands with rifles and with hounds."

" On Monday morning, the 24th of Septem- ber, 1860, there might have been seen, not .a solitary ' (a la James), but seven horsemen gal- loping across the low hills that intervene be- tween the city of Petaluma and the Santa Rosa plains. The guns that hung pendant from the saddle bows, and the sable specimen of the canine family that brought up the rear, marked them as disciples of Nimrod intent on pleasure and adventure. In brief, the object of our little party was to leave the haunts of civilization, and in the wild freedom of the forest and excite- ment of the chase, seek oblivion from the every day cares of life. With a leader whose name is a terror to bruin, and a guide familiar with the intricate paths and by- ways that thread the almost uninhabited region lying between the head waters of Dry Creek and the Coast Range, we naturally anticipated rare sport. Elated with the prospect before us, we gave loose rein to our horses, and they, as if imbued with the spirit of their riders, went dashing np the Santa Rosa Valley, bearing us over level plain and through orchard-like groves, that eon- trasted strangely with the Sonoma Mountains to our right, with their buckskin scenery varia- gated by an occasional elump of evergreen oak, or the somber appearance of the red-woods in perspective to our left. Abont 11 o'clock we passed the village of Santa Rosa, county seat of

Sonoma. It is located on Santa Rosa Creek, and presents a neat and tidy appearance. One peculiarity that strikes the traveler approach- ing this village, is the uniformity displayed in the architecture of its buildings, and the an- tique appearance of its gable chimneys that stand like shot towers exposed to the weather. A ride of five miles brought us to Mark West Creek. At the crossing of this stream the Campbellites were holding their annual meet- ing. Hitching our horses in an adjacent grove, and divesting ourselves of our hunting aecontrements, we approached the camp. It was at the elose of 11 o'clock service, and the vast eoncourse of people were singing, perhaps with the spirit, but with little regard to melody. minister occupying a prominent position on a bench, was exhorting the impenitent to ' be- lieve and be baptised,' and some ten or twelve responded to the call. As impressive as was the scene, its effect upon us was counteracted by one of the ministers volunteering the admo- nition to the new converts, that they must re- gard their . religions neighbors as their reli- gions enemies.' Such illiberality might justly be regarded as a relic of that proseriptive age that minst ever be remembered as the gloomy morn that heralded the dawn of a brighter day. The attendance at this meeting was greater than perhaps at any meeting of similar eharaeter in this region, and we were informed that between eighty and a hundred had united with the church. "As we wished to reach Healdsburg in season to perfect our arrangements for camp life, we remounted and rode toward Russian River. The mountains on either side gradually elosed in, narrowing the valley down until lost in undn- lating hills, which indicated our approach to the river. Russian River is a stream of con- siderable magnitude when swollen by the winter rains, but at present is almost lost by filtering through the cobble-stone and sand over which it flows. The bottom land along this river is justly celebrated for the corn it produces. We have seen tall corn on the western prairies, but none that would bear comparison with the corn

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of Russian River. At five in the evening we halted before the Sotoyome, the only house of publie entertainment in Healdsburg. This vil- lage might with propriety be dubbed the . Vil- lage of Woods,' as it is completely embowered in a grove of oak and madrone, giving to it an air of quiet and seelnsion really inviting to those used to the bustle and confusion of more populons places. Ocenpying a position just above the continence of Dry Creek and Russian River, it is the natural channel through which the produce of both valleys inst pass, thus giving to it superior advantages as an inland town. Here it was necessary to lay in our sup- ply of provisions and aminnnition, as there was no trading post higher up on the route we de- signed taking. A couple of sacks of Hour, tea, coffee, and necessary condiments, with a keg of powder, lead, shot, ete., completed our outfit; and as we had already bargained for a pack ani- mal to convey it to its destination in the monn- tains, we smoked our pipes and retired to rest, felicitating ourselves on the prospect of an early start in the morning. In this, however, we were disappointed, for when ready to start, the Hibernian that presided over thut livery stable informed us that the horse he designed us to have was on a rancho some distance from town, that he had sent after it, and was confident it would be brought in sometime during the day. This was annoying-it overcame our captain's usual equanimity, eansing him, we are sorry to say, to use language not to be found in the Westminister catechism. We remonstrated we threatened informed him that one of our number was a lawyer by profession, and heavy on livery stable practice, but it was no go, and only called forth a proposition that he would let us have a horse if we would pay double the stipulated price. This did not tend to molify us, and we left that stable vowing that we wonkl patronize some other establishment on our re- turn. After a delay of a couple of hours, we started up Dry Creek Valley with our muni- tions packed by an ill-visaged, ball-faced animal that would have passed as a duplicate of the

famous . Rosinante.' A youthful and inconsid- erate member of our company was in the habit of urging him forward by exclaiming . git up and git, old bally,' but onr captain very prop- erly checked him, by reminding him of the fate of forty rude boys in a land that abounded in bears.

" It is abont twelve miles from Healdsburg to the canon at the head of Dry Creek Valley. This valley consists of a rich loam formed by the decayed vegetation that is annually borne down and deposited by the mountain streams. Its Inxnriant fields of corn indicated its capacity to produce, and we are much mistaken if the day is far distant when hop and tobacco culture will claim the attention and prove remuner- ative to those disposed to engage in it. At the head of the valley we bade adieu to civilization and wagon roads, and taking the paek trail, be- gan the ascent of the rugged mountain. Onward and upward we toiled our way, some leading their horses, others preferring to let their's go ahead, thereby giving them the advantage of . tail holt' to assist them in their ascent. Before we reached the summit bandanas were in requisition, and standing collars were meta- morphosed into drooping ' Byrons.' As labor- ions as was the ascent, we were amply repaid by the extensive prospeet that was opened to ns, for as far as the eye conld scan there was one confused jumble of mountains, clad with forests of redwood and fir, whose spiral tops seemed to pieree the clouds. Ten miles ot rough roads lay between us and the springs where we designed pitching eamp that night, and urging onr jaded horses forward along a tortuous trail that was hedged in by chaparral and manzaneta thickets, we halted at five in the evening, weary and hungry. To pieket our horses and build a camp fire claimed our first attention; then came a scene worthy the pencil of an artist. Men who were wont to turn up their noses at better vietnals than graced the table of ' Dives,' might be seen devonring with avidity slices of bacon they had broiled before the fire on the end of their ramrods; fragrant coffee was

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sipped from tin enps, and the elatter of knives and forks upon tin plates, gave evidence that ample justice was done to the repast, notwith- standing the absence of delf. Spreading our · blankets npon the earth, and with our heads pillowed upon our saddles and the starry heavens for a canopy, we consigned onrselves to the embraer of . tired nature's restorer.' We were up by early dawn and ready to take the trail leading to Flat Ridge, ten miles distant. The springs at which we camped, our gnide in- formed ns were without a name, and we chris- tened them . Hunter's Springs.'

"As we ascended a sharp ridge that towered above the surrounding mountains, the sun rose bright and elear above the mountains to the eastward, and its reflection upon the dense sea- fog, that had settled in the eañons and gorges of the mountains, gave us a view grand and sub- lime. Seas, bays, and friths, were mixed to- gether in admirable confusion. Their plaeid, mirror-like surface was unrippled by a breeze, and . nofurrowed by a keel.' For an hour we enjoyed the illusion, when the rays of ' Sol' began to trouble the waters; at first, ripples appeared on the surface, then billow chased bil- low, and finally rising in fleeey folds, it floated heavenward revealing the wilderness of forest that had apparently been submerged. Passing down a steep declivity toward Flat Ridge, we met with a mishap that might have materially affeeted the sport of our company. Our keg of powder broke loose from its lashings, and went rolling down the mountains. As it disappeared from view, disappointment and chagrin was visible on every countenance. The course it had taken was marked by a trail through the wild oats, with which the side of the mountain was clad, as if a boa-constrictor had taken its flight down the mountain. Taking the trail of our fugitive easket, we found it on a bench of the mountain five hundred yards distant, snugly ensconeed in a bunch of fern. We halted at Flat Ridge, and cooked dinner; then resnmed our march for the Buckeye Springs, eight miles distant, where we designed going into perma-

nent quarters. Crossing the east fork of the Guałała and bearing toward the coast in the region of . Point Arenas,' we arrived at Bnek- eye and pitched camp at four in the evening. As late as the hour, we could not restrain our impatience for the chase, and hurriedly unsad- dling our horses, and turning them loose to graze npon the luxuriant oats and clover with which our eamp was surrounded, we sallied forth, some with rifles, others with shot-guns, each intent on some daring exploit: but onr "zeal resulted in nothing, save that one of party. armed with a fowling-piece, was reconnoitering a manzaneta grove for quail, when he suddenly found himself face to face with a hngh bear, who was standing upon his hind legs quietly reeonnoitering him ; but as his pieee was charged with quail shot, he did not deem it prudent to get into an affray with him, and acting on the principle that " discretion was the better part of valor." he made tracks for camp. His bear- ship, notwithstanding his leenan attitude, did not appear to be pluck, for upon returning to the spot armed with rifles, it was discovered he had ingloriously forsaken the field. Our eamp was on a ridge that formed the divide between the east and west Gnalala, and had been ocen- pied by some adventurons stockman, who had ereeted and occupied a temporary shanty, but finding it an unprofitable speculation, had moved with his floeks to some other seetion of the country, leaving the ' Buckeye House ' as a standing monument to his folly. We took formal possession of the premises, and made the house answer the double purpose of dining room and sleeping apartments, whilst a hollow redwood tree elose by was converted into a magazine. After the usual routine of camp duty was dispatched, all hands were bnsy in running balls, eleaning guns, and making all needful preparations for the next day's sport. One after another, after having put their rifles in a condition, as they believed. to drive the center at any given distance, joined the eirele around the camp fire, and the wreaths of smoke that eireling aloft from half a dozen pipes, assuming

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all kinds of fantastie shapes, appeared to be the signal for stories of adventure and hairbreadth escapes. Our guide took the lead by recounting incidents that had ocenrred in that region-of two brothers out hunting, one shooting the other's arm off, mistaking him for a deer; of a man hitching his mule close to the ehaparal, to hunt down a eanon, and returning was de- ceived as to locality, and seeing his mule in the brush shot him supposing him to be a grizzly bear: and several other incidents of like nature. Another member of the company related an instance of a hunter shooting a cow mistaking her for a squirrel; but the palm was awarded to our captain who related a circumstance of a party of hunters of Santa Clara, going to the mountains to hunt bear, taking with them a donkey to pack bear; but who returned in a short time bringing with them the pack-saddle, the bears having unceremoniously packed off the donkey. The next day we scoured the forests and delved into dark canons in quest of game. We did not find deer as plenty as we had anticipated, but every member of our com- pany managed to get a shot during the day, and each maintained that he had hit his deer, but owing to causes he could explain satisfactorily to themselves, the stricken deer eluded their grasp. Two of our company, however, more for- tunate than the rest, brought in substantial tokens of their skill with the rifle, and that night there was added to the bill of fare of the · Buckeye House' roast venison. venison stew, venison steak and broiled venison. The reverber- ations of our rifles through the mountains, awaked the solitudes and rendered the game weary. Deer had to be hunted from their lair in the underbrush. and the bear seented danger when afar off, and when seen were generally out of range of rifle shot, and showing a dis- position to avoid close proximity to their new neighbors. Two of our company, hunting to- gether one day, however, were fortunate enough to surprise a black bear when up a fir tree lopping acorn's from an oak, whose branches interlocked the fir. A shot from a small rifle

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An illustrated history of Sonoma County, California. Containing a history of the county of Sonoma from the earliest period of its occupancy to the present time, Part 19

Author: Lewis Publishing Company Publication date: 1889 Publisher: Chicago, The Lewis Publishing Company Number of Pages: 786

Author: Lewis Publishing Company
Publication date: 1889
Publisher: Chicago, The Lewis Publishing Company
Number of Pages: 786