USA > California > Napa County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 15
USA > California > Lake County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 15
USA > California > Sonoma County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 15
USA > California > Mendocino County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 15
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Since locating in Napa Valley, Mr. Brannan has continued his varied business affairs; but it seems that the talisman is gone, for of late years serious financial reverses have overtaken him .. He has, since the first foundation of government here, taken a deep interest and performed an active part in all public measures. But his char- acter and history are too well known to need further notice.
B. W. ARNOLD.
This gentleman is a native of Massachusetts, where he was born in 1823. He lived mostly in Rhode Island till in 1849, when he took passage on a sail vessel and came around Cape Horn to San Francisco. After arriving in San Francisco he went to San José and Santa Cruz for the benefit of his health. He then went into the mines. In the Fall of .1850 he went up to Trinidad to engage in merchandising, and, up to the time of his removal to Napa Valley, was engaged at various places in mining, merchandising, and other pursuits. At one time he went out to the Salmon River mines, when freight cost $1 75 per pound. In 1857 he removed to Yount- ville, Napa county, where he has, until lately, resided, engaged a greater part of the time in merchandising. He held the position of
Postmaster for several years. At the election, of 1863 he was chosen Assessor for Napa county, which office with the exception of two years, when he was deputy, he has ever since held. Since first ar- riving in the State he has never left it. His family came out by way of the Isthmus in 1853. His continually being kept in the service of the people is more demonstrative evidence of the high esteem in which he is held than any encomium we could offer.
CAYETANO JUAREZ.
"Don Cayetano," as he is familiarly known by so many, is a native Californian, born in 1810, in Monterey, the former capital of Upper California. In 1827 Mr. Juarez came to Sonoma in the capacity
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HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL.
of a soldier, serving under Commander M. G. Vallejo, who had just established that, the first Mission or settlement, north of the Bay. After a time he obtained a grant of two square leagues of land in the locality now occupied by him, and in 1840 settled on his ranch. His generous gift to the publie of Tulocay Cemetery has already been noticed in the beginning of this work. He has always been-even in the days of the Bear Flag party-a staunch friend to the Ameri- cans, and contributed liberally to relieve the necessities of the carly emigrants. He is one among the few native Californians who have had the shrewdness to retain a goodly portion of their original estates. Though now 63 years of age. he is as vigorous as a man of 25, and bids fair to survive many more years. Mr. Juarez has reared a family of HI children. 8 of whom are living.
JOHN S. STARK.
Mr. Stark is one of the ante-gokl-discovery pioneers, having ar- rived here overland in 1846. He is a native of one of the Western States. He served as Sheriff of Napa county, from 1856 to 1860. and did the duties of his office satisfactorily. Mr. Stark has always been esteemed as an honorable and useful citizen.
M. D. RITCHIE.
Col. Ritchie is a native of Pennsylvania, born in 1805, but lived in Illinois for many years before coming to California. He arrived here overland in 1846, and settled in Sonoma ; a few years after he moved to Napa Valley, where he still resides. Col. Ritchie was the first man who made an effort to rescue the Donner party who were snow-bound at Donner Lake in the Winter of 1846-7.
C. II. ALLEN.
Col. Allen is a native of Providence, Rhode Island, born in 1817. He sailed from Stonington, Connecticut, in the ship Calumet, for California via Cape Horn, and arrived at San Francisco in March. 1850. Col. Allen came to Napa in November, 1853, since which time he has been a permanent resident, thoroughly identified with and taking an active interest in the gradual growth of the place. He opened the first tin and hardware establishment in Napa City, which
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he sold to Smith & Chesebro in 1856. It may be remarked here that Col. Allen was the first man who bottled our soda water by machinery-an article now in such general use. As a good and useful citizen, the community in which he lives can bear witness.
Here we close our biographical sketches, not that we have nearly finished, nor that we have mentioned all who deserve a notice, but that time and space prevent us doing more. There are many old pioneers whom we have been unable to see, and therefore unable to give them a notice. Some have refused to give us any information in regard to their lives, and some were unknown to us till it was too late to get their lives. We therefore close, assuring all that we have not intentionally slighted any, nor given any unmerited notice.
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=
F & VENCE
VIEW IN COBB VALLEY.
CHAPTER XII.
TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES OF NAP.A.
Among the important elements going to make up the history of a county is the rise and progress of the towns of the county. They are, in fact, the centers of historical transactions. We shall, there- fore, devote a short space to these. Also, the watering places, or general resorts for tourists, are important as they go to make up the desirability of a country for travelers and settlers. Napa City, hav- ing been so thoroughly noticed in noting the progress of the county, we omit from the list :
YOUNTVILLE.
The little village of Yountville is situated near the center of the valley on the line of the railroad, about nine miles above Napa City. It took its name from Mr. Yount, the first white settler in the county. His homestead, where his widow still resides, is about
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NAPA COUNTY AS IT WAS AND IS.
two miles north of the present town. It is in the center of a richt agricultural section, but, owing to its proximity to Napa City, has never done much business. Yet it has, probably, one of the most equable temperatures in the county. It is far enough from the Bay that the winds, so disagreeable to many, are tempered down to pleasant breezes, and it is not far enough in the interior to be cut off from these breezes, and to be subject to intense heat. In the carly part of 1870, Mr. J. Groezinger, of San Francisco, purchased a large tract of land having a fine vineyard thereon, of H. C. Boggs, and has erected there one of the largest and most substantial wine cellars in the State. More particular reference will be made to this cellar in our review of the vineyards of the county.
-T. HELENA.
This town is one of the most pleasant places in the whole county. It is situated on the line of the railroad. eighteen miles north of Napa City. Its first beginning was in 1853. when a Mr. Henry Still, who owned a large tract of land there, in connection with Mr. Walters built a store and dwelling house. The valley surrounding was sparse- ly settled: but some, even at that carly date. had an idea that at nem distant day a considerable town woukl grow up there. In 1855 Mr. Still announced that he would! donate lots to any persons who woukt erect business houses on the same. Among those who accepted the offer were John S. Keister, who created a shoe shop on the present site of the National Hotel; Mr. J. Howell. a blacksmith shop, and Robert Calderwood a wagon shop on a lot adjoining the present St. Charles Hotel. The infant town was christened St. Helena, from the name given to the Division of Sons of Temperance established there about this time.
In 1856 a hotel was erected by A. Tainter on a lot nearly opposite where the Pope Valley road now intersects Main street. This hotel was destroyed by fire in 1860. The next building of note was the Baptist Church edifice, [ noted in the chapter on Churches and Bener- olent Organizations; also the other churches and Lodges are duly noted in the same chapter. | At the laving of the corner stone of the Presbyterian Church, there was the grandest time that the town had ever before known. People came from Sonoma, Napa and other
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TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
places to witness the laying of the corner stone and hear the oration delivered on the occasion. The following are some of the articles placed in the corner stone : A copy of the Napa County Reporter: the confessions of faith of the Cumberland Presbyterian Church ; names of the members of the Church and of the Sunday School; con- stitution and by-laws of the Sons of Temperance and of the Temple of Honor, and also of the Masons: a copy of the Cumberland Pres- byter, a church paper published at that time in Santa Clara county. and some pieces of coin.
The second hotel was erected in 1862 by John Wolf, on the same site as the first one. This one likewise was destroyed by fire in 1866, and has never been rebuilt. In 1865 Mr. Rampendahl completed the National Hotel. This has since its erection been the resort for large numbers of persons visiting the White Sulphur Springs, and going to enjoy the pleasant climate and beautiful scenery of this sec- tion of the valley.
In 1867 Mr. J. Vick purchased a lot of H. H. Dixon, and on it erected the large and commodious brick building, the St. Charles Hotel. He has the greater part of the time, till the Fall of 1872. conducted the hotel, at which time he leased it to Mr. Reeve. St. Helena is the centre of an extensive agricultural region, and is in direct communication with the mining districts of Pope Valley and Knoxville. It is in the great vine growing section of the county. and bids fair soon to become an important point for the Eastern wine trade. The community surrounding St. Helena, in a moral, social and intellectual view, is probably not excelled in the State. There are four church edifices, Presbyterian, Methodist, Baptist and Catholic; two Lodges, Odd Fellows and Masons: and one of the best schools in the county.
MONTICELLO AND BERRYESSA VALLEY.
The town of Monticello is a thriving little village in the rich valley of Berryessa. It has been entirely erected since the purchase and division of the valley. Berryessa Valley is one of the chief wheat growing districts in the county. It has not been settled thickly, still being owned by a comparatively few persons. The Berryessa grant originally contained 36,000 acres. As only a slight general descrip-
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NAPA COUNTY AS IT WAS AND IS.
tion of this valley is elsewhere given, we here note the following items : The valley lies between two spurs of the Coast Range Moun- tains, running about 29 degrees west of north, and lies 24 miles north of Napa City. Putah Creek, a most beautiful mountain stream, runs through the valley, filled with a great variety of fish-while along the foothills and even on the mountain tops are found numerous springs. Putah Creek runs through a canon bearing the same name, to the southeast into the Sacramento Valley, where its waters sink in the tule. Putah Canon has been surveyed for the purpose of build- ing a railroad into the valley from Sacramento Valley. The route is a very feasible one, as the cañon, forming a natural inlet to the val- ley, has a fall of but 14 feet to the mile and has a fair wagon road through it at the present time. It is merely a matter of time as to the building of a railroad into Berryessa: afd the time will be very soon after the dividing up of the extensive farmis into smaller ones for actual settlers. The valley is capable of producing sufficiently, we think, to warrant the construction. The valley is about 20 miles long and from 1 to 3 wide, and is, together with the surrounding mountains, covered with an abundance of timber, while the scenery is the most picturesque and beautiful in the State; and the healthful- ness is not excelled anywhere, separated as it is by three ranges of mountains from the Bay winds; the air becomes dry, extremely bracing and healing to the lungs, and thus it promises a safe retreat for the afflicted. The soil is rich and fertile, producing large crops, and is very promising as a fruit and especially a grape growing re- gion. From the contour of the valley it has evidently been an inland sea at or not far from the time when the great throes of Nature brought into existence not only the coast range mountains, but opened the "Golden Gate," formed the fertile valleys of the Pacific Coast, and laid out the beautiful county of Napa. The surrounding mountains of Berryessa furnish an abundance of wild game. Mount "Sugar Loaf," being the principal peak, lying southwest of Monti- cello. is easily recognized by its conical shape.
The first settlers of the valley were Cap. Hardin, John Adams, Win. Moore, Edward Cage, and Andrew Wester, who were in the valley before the grant was divided. The first houses erected in the valley were the Berryessa adobe, the Wester adobe, and the Cap.
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TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
Hardin adobe. After the division of the land, R. C. Gillaspy erected the first house for J. H. Bostwick, and Ezra Peacock built the first house in Monticello. There are four school districts in Berryessa. Valley, and two religious organizations. the Cumberland Presbyte- rians and Christians.
Berryessa Valley, like many other localities in California, is suffer- ing greatly from land monopolists. Such large ranches prevent set- tlements from advancing, strangle the surrounding villages, and make sickly schools. A change in this matter must take place soon : we must have smaller farms and manage them better.
CALISTOG.A.
The beautiful town of Calistoga, situated in the Northern part of the valley, and at the terminus of the Napa branch of the Pacific Railroad, has become famous on account of its medicinal springs and fine scenery. These Springs, though known to the Indians and Mexicans long before, seems to have attracted little or no attention till about the time Samuel Brannan, in 1859, purchased the exten- sive tract of land on which they are situated. They were known to the native Californians, Mexicans and Indians as the aguas calientes, hot springs, and their curative properties were by these early inhabi- tants occasionally used. The Springs are situated in the level valley, and are surrounded except on the South side by high and picturesque mountains. After the purchase of the property, Mr. Brannan im- mediately commenced improvements on an extensive scale. He set about making all the improvements and farnishing all the comforts necessary to render this the most attractive places of resort for inva- lids as well as tourists in the State. The main grounds belonging to the Springs proper consists of a tract of about one hundred acres. near the center of which stands a small hill called Mt. Lincoln. On the summit is an observatory, from which a fine view of the whole of Calistoga and of the surrounding country can be obtained. On this hill is a reservoir which holds ninety thousand gallons. The water is brought from Napa River by means of steam. ·
At the foot of Mt. Lincoln, on the Western side, is the hotel and the pleasure grounds. There are near twenty-five neat and comfor- table cottages for the accommodation of guests. The grounds are
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NAPA COUNTY AS IT WAS AND IS.
laid off into walks and ornamented with choice selections of trees, shrubbery and flowers. West of the Spring grounds lies the busi- ness part of Calistoga, while the county road passes along the West- ern side of the valley. The town is quite a lively place for business, being the terminus of the railroad and being closely connected by stage lines with Lake county, the Geysers. Healdsburg, and Santa Rosa.
The waters of the springs hold in solution sulphur, iron, mag- nesia, and various other chemical properties. A few years ago a well was bored directly in front of the hotel. At the depth of sev- enty feet rock was struck which prevented further progress. The water now stands in this well at the uniform temperature of 1850. There is a Russian steam bath formed by having the bath room erec. ted immediately over a spring of the temperature of 195°, with apertures for letting the steam come up into the room. A window is provided for letting the bather get fresh air, and slides are provi- ded for regulating the issue of steam. There are a vast number of different kinds and temperatures, but we refrain from further detail. One spring or well of hot sulphurous water has a most peculiar taste. With a little seasoning of salt and pepper. it has a very decided taste like unto restaurant chicken soup, and is much relished by a great many. ' The writer calls to mind a ludicrous scene that took place at this " soup bowl " during the political campaign of 1871. Four candidates for official honors were assembled around the "bowl " regaling themselves upon the chicken soup, when one of them stooping down to help himself to a second plateful, fished up a small animal of a suspicious looking nature, and jumped up triumphant- ly exclaiming : "Here's your chicken, here's your chicken !" There was an immediate complaint of want of appetite.
The compiler of Bancroft's Tourists' Guide thus speaks of Calis- toga :
" There is evidently some mysterious agency at work underground at Calistoga, not quite comprehensible to visitors. Chemists and savans, indeed, explain the matter in the most learned and scien- tific manner, by speaking of chemical reaction among mineral sub- stances and the like, and make out a very plausible theory. But the explanation, to many people, needs as much explaining as the
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TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
mystery itself; and when a man finds the ground under his feet to be hot. and the waters issuing from it to be in the neighborhood of the boiling point, he cannot well help harboring a suspicion that the diabolus ipse is at work within perilous proximity. especially since the imagination is somewhat helped to the sinister conclusion by a prevailing and most Stygian odor.
.A well was bored at this place, preparatory to the erection of the bath house. to the depth of sixty-five feet, when the boring instru -. ments were blown out with tremendous force, high into the air, as if some unseen power beneath was resenting the intrusion of mor- tals upon his domain. The workmen ran for their lives, and could not be induced to resume operations on any terms.
"Here is another evidence that the presiding genius of the place does not like to be disturbed. An attempt was made to pump water from this well. After a few strokes. a violent streamn was blown out of the well, ten or fifteen feet high. If the pumping was stopped the blowing would stop also, but renewed afresh as often as the pump- ing was resumed. The water at the top being cold, seems to hold in abeyance the steam and intensely hot water below : the action of the pump relieves the superincumbent pressure, when the hot water below rushes out."
One other feature of considerable interest is a grotto erected in the shape of a Druidical Temple solely of petrified wood. It is about fifteen feet high and twenty-five in circumference. The mate- rial consists of pieces of logs from two to three feet in length, the apex being occupied by what was once the knot of a tree, in which is a small flag-staff. The wood or rock was brought from the cele- brated Petrified Forest.
During four months of 1872. April, May, June and July, the number of visitors to this favorite watering place was 3,020. From the hills surrounding the valley flow fine streams in which trout are abundant, and in the hills are to be found deer and various other kinds of game, with an occasional bear. A few years ago, Messrs. Brannan & Keseberg erected an extensive distillery and wine house. Some of the "California Cognac" from this distillery is said to rival the finest brands of French brandy. But Mr. Brannan did not long continue in the concern, and since his retiring the business has been limited.
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NAPA COUNTY AS IT WAS AND IS.
The temperature at times is very warm, at times for a portion of the day the thermometer running up to 1109, but the average is very pleasant. Entries are made upon the hotel register at 6 A. M ., 12 M., and 6 p. M., and the average yearly temperature for these re- spective hours was in 1871-2, 56°, 719, and 659. For the months of May, June. July and August, 1871, the averages were 679, 80º. and 75°.
In 1871, Mr. McGeorge commenced the publication of the Calis- toga Tribune, and excepting a few intervals of cessation, has contin- ued it till the present time.
THE WHITE SULPHUR SPRINGS.
One among the many attractions to St. Helena is the celebrated watering place, the White Sulphur Springs. These springs are situa- ted in a deep but romantic cañon, nearly two miles west of St. Helena. Nature has lavished her beauties upon this place, and art has added many attractions. A stream flows down the cañon or gorge in the hills, which adds much to the scene. and affords a tine place for anglers. The stream is of the finest water and beauti- fully shaded with trees and shrubs. The mountains on either side are high and rugged, mostly covered with a dense growth of a kind of grease-wood-like brush, known as chimisal. A flat on the north side of the mountain has been cleared and planted in vines and trees, but few other attempts have been made to change the natural beauties of the place. The hotel is a large and commodious one. ind the cottages, of which there are quite a number, all cozy and pleasant. This place early attracted attention, and, as early as 1855. we find that a fine hotel had been erected there by Taffi & Brewster. There has been a fine road constructed from St. Helena to these springs, a telegraph line erected, beautiful flowers and shrubbery planted, and everything done that can add to the pleasures or com- forts of guests. The Springs have for many years been under the management of Mr. Alstrom. and a more attentive host can nowhere be found. The scenery from the mouth of the cañon is grandly beautiful. The valley, dotted over with vineyards and farm-houses. and the rugged hills to the east and north, form a contrast that im- presses every one who views it. and compares favorably with many
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TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
WINTE SULPHUR SPRINGS HOTEL ..
of the celebrated scenes of the Old World. The roads leading from the Springs, and about St. Helena, are kept hard and smooth, afford- ing fine drives. During the traveling season the hotel and cottages at the Springs are most always crowded, and many visitors get board with private families, while others board at the hotels in the village.
NAPA SODA SPRINGS.
The Napa Soda Springs, from which is obtained the pleasant cool- ing beverage, the Napa Soda, are situated on the western side of the mountains east of the valley, about five miles from Napa City. This locality is finely suited for a favorite watering place, but, for the want of hotel and other accommodations it has not as yet become noted except for the water. The landscape from the Springs is very extensive and very attractive, and we doubt not that ere long suitable buildings and improvements will be completed to render this second to no place in the county as a resort for travelers and invalids. A fine hotel, erected in 1856, was burned only a short time after com- pletion, and no further attempts have been made to provide accom-
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NAPA COUNTY AS IT WAS AND IS.
modations for travelers. . The property has changed hands several times and been much in litigation. This probably has been one of the greatest reasons why accommodations have not long since been provided. The water of these Springs hold in solution soda, mag- nesia, lime, iron, alumina, and other properties, and is considered not only a pleasant but a healthful beverage. It is bottled on the grounds, and hauled in wagons to Napa City, where it may be shipped.
PETRIFIED FOREST.
One of the interesting features closely connected with Calistoga is the Petrified Forest, five miles west of south from that place, and near the dividing ridge between Napa and Santa Rosa Valleys. The road from Calistoga to the Forest is picturesque and beautiful. The hills are covered with groves of pines, oaks, madronas, manzanitas and other growths, and as the tourist passes over the road he cannot but be struck by the beauty and grandeur of the scene. The Forest is on the north side of a deep ravine or cañon, and covers an area of two or three hundred acres. The trees are from a hundred to a hundred and fifty feet in length, and from two to seven feet in diam- eter, and are broken up into logs of various lengths. These trees are only partially unearthed-they evidently having been covered by dirt and rock of volcanic formation, which has only been partially washed away by the agency of water. The logs bear almost the exact appearance of wood, and are in every state of crystalization. In one place is a large tree growing between and upon the fragments of a log of rock, which strikes the beholder as a genuine curiosity of nature, and proves that these logs have existed for countless ages. The trees are nearly all lying with the tops from St. Helena Moun- tain, which would seem to indicate the fact that they were over- whelmed by lava from that direction.
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