USA > California > Napa County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 26
USA > California > Lake County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 26
USA > California > Sonoma County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 26
USA > California > Mendocino County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 26
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SONOMA COUNTY.
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tween the proprietors occurred in the Fall of 1864 that blasted the fair prospects of the institution, and it gradually declined, till in 1867 it suspended, and the building was sold to satisfy an outstanding mortgage. Thus ingloriously ended a concern that for some con- siderable time after incipiency promised soon to become second to none other in the State. The building was purchased by the mort- gagor, Mr. Cyrus Alexander, and afterwards donated to the Presby- terian Church. There has since been a school conducted here. known as the Alexander Academy. It has able and experienced educators at the head of it, and will doubtless, backed by the Pres- byterian denomination, become a permanent and useful institution. In the Spring of 1870 Mr. W. A. C. Smith opened a private school in the building owned by the Christian Church, but it lasted only a short time, when he closed it and went back to his former place of work, St. Helena, Napa county, where he still remains as principal of the school.
Several schools of importance were at different times started at Sonoma. That town, being the oldest one in the county, received the earliest attention as an educational center. As early as 1857 the foundation for a magnificent college edifice was laid. The building was afterwards completed, and is an imposing and commodious school building. A high school was commenced, known as the Cumberland Presbyterian College. It was at different times con- ducted under different managers, but a few years since closed. The building is not now occupied. Many other attempts were made at different times and places with private schools, but the efforts pro- duced nothing permanent. Under the present able management of the Public Schools, private institutions must be much more than me- diocre to be at all successful.
CHURCHES, ETC.
For church facilities Sonoma has few superiors, and for her be- nevolent orders she stands in the front ranks. In the towns large and commodious churches are erected, while in the country, school houses are most frequently used. In Petaluma there are seven churches, four of which, Episcopal, Baptist, Congregational and. Christian, have edifices assessed at $1, 200, and over, the last, for
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over $6,000. In Santa Rosa there are Catholic, Advent, Methodist (South), Methodist (North), Presbyterian, Baptist and Christian churches, each of which have an edifice assessed at from $1, 400 to $2,800. In Windsor there is a large building known as the Anti- Sectarian Church, which was erected in 1867 chiefly by the labors of one Kirkpatrick for the purpose of having a place where all kinds of worship, or speaking, could be held free. It has never been finished but is used. The Methodists (South) also have a building here. At Healdsburg the Christians, Adventists, Baptists, Catholics, Metho- dists, North and South, and Presbyterians, all have separate houses of worship. Besides these, Sebastopol, Bloomfield, Sonoma, Bodega and other places have edifices dedicated to church purposes.
The Masonic Order is the oldest in the county, and has seven subordinate Lodges, and two of Royal Arch Masons. The Lodges are as follows : Temple Lodge, No. 14, Sonoma : Santa Rosa Lodge, No. 57, Santa Rosa ; Petaluma Lodge, No. 77, Petaluma ; Sotoyome Lodge, No. 123, Healdsburg ; La Fayette Lodge, No. 126, Sebastopol ; Curtis Lodge, No. 140, Cloverdale : Vitruvius Lodge, No. 145; Bloomfield ; Arcturus Lodge, No. 180, Petaluma; Russian River Lodge, No. 181, Windsor ; Bodega Lodge, No. 213, Bodega. The first Chapter of Royal Arch Masons, No. 22, was es- tablished at Petaluma. The second one was established and the first meeting held by dispensation at Santa Rosa on the last Wednesday in March, 1873.
The Order of Odd Fellows was not established till a later date, but they have spread rapidly, and now number nine Lodges in the county, as follows : Sonoma Lodge, No. 28, Sonoma ; Petaluma Lodge, No. 30, Petaluma ; Santa Rosa Lodge, No. 53, Santa Rosa ; Healdsburg Lodge, No. 64, Healdsburg ; Evergreen Lodge, No. 61, Sebastopol ; Osceola Lodge, No. 215, Windsor ; Relief Lodge, No. 196, Stoney Point ; Cloverdale Lodge, No. 193, Cloverdale ; Valley Ford Lodge, No. 191, Valley Ford. In addition there is one Encampment, Relief, No. 29, at Petaluma.
The Order of Red Men established their first Lodge in Healds- burg in 1870. Another one has since been established in Windsor. The most numerous Order in the county is that of the Good Templars. Their first Lodge, No. 32, was established in Heilds-
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SONOMA COUNTY.
burg, May 12th, 1861. For several years the Order made little progress. Up to 1870 there were but three Lodges in the whole county, but in that year it commenced to grow, and now numbers fourteen Lodges. They are as follows : Star of Hope Lodge, No. 32, Healdsburg ; Valley Ford Lodge, No. 156, Valley Ford ; Young America Lodge, No. 162, Bloomfield ; Enterprise Lodge, No. 356, Guernville ; Cloverdale Lodge, No. 357, Cloverdale ; Melissa Lodge, No. 374, Coleman Valley ; Santa Rosa Lodge, No. 370, Santa Rosa ; Phoenix Lodge, No. 371, Windsor ; Buena Vista Lodge, No. 373, Bodega Corners ; Evergreen Lodge, No. 375, Se- bastopol ; Two Rock Lodge, No. 378, Two Rock ; Star of the West Lodge, No. 380, Petaluma ; Liberty Lodge. No. 381. Stony Point ; Bethel Lodge, No. 382, near Petaluma.
There are six banking houses in Sonoma county-tlirec at Peta- luma, two at Santa Rosa and one at Healdsburg. In Petaluma are the Savings Bank, O. W. Walker, Cashier; the Sonoma Bank, J. L. Van Doren, Cashier; and the private house of I. G. Wickersham & Co. In Santa Rosa there are the Savings Bank, F. G. Hahman, Cashier, and the Santa Rosa Bank, C. G. Ames, Cashier; and in Healdsburg the private house of Canan, Hutton & Smith.
The Sonoma and Marin Agricultural Society has property assessed at $8,000; the Sonoma.Water. Company of Petaluma, $16, 256; the Sonoma and Marin Beneficial Association, $18,coo; and the Waslı- ington Hall Association of Petaluma, $10,000.
In the county there are fourteen saw mills having a capacity of from 10,000 to 30,000 feet of lumber per day; eight grist mills of dif- ferent capacities; ten brickyards, two potteries. six tanneries, and two planing mills.
THE RAILROAD.
The railroad history of Sonoma is brief but expressive. In the Spring of 1868 the subject of voting a subsidy of $5,000 per mile to some company who would construct a road through the county, came before the people, the Legislature having acted on the question. At the election authorized for the decision of this question, the vote was not only as to the giving of the subsidy, but as to the line of the proposed road. Two routes were proposed, one from Vallejo by 1
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GENERAL MISCELLANY.
way of Soscol, Sonoma, Guilicos Valley, Santa Rosa, Healdsburg, and up to Cloverdale, with branch leading West from Santa Rosa, if desired; the other from some suitable point below Petaluma up to Santa Rosa and along the same route, with branch leading from above Petaluma out through Two Rock and Big Valleys. At the election the Petaluma route was selected, and the subsidy voted by large majorities. In 1868 the San Francisco and Humboldt Bay Railroad Company was organized to build a railroad from Saucelito to Humboldt Bay, on the route through Sonoma county as selected by the popular vote. The Company did nothing but grade a few miles of road between Petaluma and Santa Rosa. Affairs here rested till the following year, when all the rights, franchises, etc., of this company were transferred to the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad Company. Nothing was done by the new Company until August, 1870, when Peter Donahoe, of San Francisco, purchased the stock and commenced operations. This person commenced one of the most vigorous prosecutions on record for individual capital. He commenced work about the first of September, and in no less than four months had the road running as far as Santa Rosa, a dis- tance of twenty-two and a half miles. Mr. Donahoe built this road entirely with white labor, no Chinese being employed, and paid for the same as the work progressed out of his own private re- sources. In the spring of 1871 the California Pacific Railroad Com- pany began grading between Santa Rosa and Healdsburg, ostensibly with the intention of building a road between these points, and finally extending up to Cloverdale, before Mr. Donahoe could com- plete his, and thus claim the subsidy. But their real designs were to make Mr. Donahoe sell his works and franchises. They suc- ceeded, and the latter transferred to them all of the road, right of way, depot buildings, rolling stock, etc., for the sum of $750,000. The California Pacific then pushed the work along, and early in 1872 had the cars running into Cloverdale. When this Company transfered all their property and franchises to the Central Pacific Road, this road through Sonoma likewise passed. It continued un- der the control of the latter Company till early in 1873, when it was transferred back to Mr. Donahoe, under whose management it still remains.
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SONOMA COUNTY.
The road has been of inestimable benefit to Sonoma County, es- pecially to that portion through which it passes. Santa Rosa, Healdsburg and Cloverdale have had new life infused into them, and have made most rapid strides in progress and improvement. The population has steadily increased, both in the town and in the country. The communication with the City is so convenient and so direct, that people in the metropolis come up along the road to select pleasant residences. The value of land has increased very much, and business has more than doubled.
ELECTION RETURNS OF SONOMA.
Not pretending to give a detailed history of Sonoma, we omit all the election returns up to 1865. In this year the following officers were elected : Senator, George Pearce ; Representatives, O. H. Hoag, J. L. Downing, A. C. Bledsoe ; Sheriff, James P. Clark ; County Clerk, Wm. L. Anderson ; County Recorder, Murray Whalon ; County Treasurer, E. T. Farmer ; District Attorney, W. Ross ; Assessor, G. W. Huie ; Surveyor, J. B. Wood ; Superinten- dent of Public Instruction, C. G. Ames ; Public Administrator, R. G. Baber; Coroner, L. D. Cockrill. Supervisors, J. K. Smith, Z. Jackson, A. B. Aull. On November 5th, 1866, G. W. Frick was appointed to fill the unexpired term of Z. Jackson, resigned.
At the election of 1867 there was a total vote of 4, 201 cast, out of which H. H. Haight for Governor had a majority of 940. The following officers were elected members of Assembly, S. M. Martin of 'I'wo Ro ... Valley, W'm. Caldwell, of Cloverdale, and J. B. War- field, of Sonoma Valley ; Sheriff, Samuel Potter, of Bodega ; Clerk. Wm. L. Anderson, of Santa Rosa ; Recorder, W. H. Bond, of Santa Rosa ; Treasurer, E. T. Farmer, of Santa Rosa ; District At- torney, A. P. Overton, of Petaluma; Surveyor, J. B. Wood, of Healdsburg ; Assessor, A. J. Gordon, of Healdsburg ; Superintendent of Schools, C. G. Ames, of Santa Rosa; Public Administrator, I .. D. Cockrill, of Bloomfield; Coroner, Wm. Mead ; Road Com- missioner, Z. Jackson ; County Judge, C. W. Langdon ; Supervi- sors, J. K. Smith and J. D. Grant.
At the Presidential election of 1868 there were 4, 201 votes cast with a majority of 603 for Seymour.
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GENERAL MISCELLANY.
At the general election of 1869 there was no regular Republican ticket run, but a ticket made up of compromise men from both Republican and Democratic candidates in opposition to the regular Democratic nominations. The vote was not so large as in 1867, and the majorities for the regular Democratic ticket not more than half so large. It resulted in the following choice, all Democrats : Senator, Wm. Burnett, of Petaluma ; members of Assembly, Bar- clay Henley, of Santa Rosa, B. B. Munday, of Petaluma, and T. W. Hudson, of Healdsburg ; Sheriff, Samuel Potter ; Clerk, Wm R. Morris, of Healdsburg ; Recorder, Wm. H. Bond ; Treasurer, G. T. Pauli, of Sonoma ; District Attorney, A. P. Overton ; Asses- sor, A. J. Gordon ; Superintendent of Public Instruction, G. W. Jones ; Public Administrator, Geo. A. Noonan ; Road Commis- sioner, R. Head ; Coroner, S. Larrison ; Surveyor, J. B. Wood. At the judicial election in the same year, out of a total vote of 2,- 444, W. C. Wallace, of Napa, received a majority of 590 over J. B. Southard for District Judge. James M. Palmer was elected Su- pervisor.
At the general election of 1871, the vote was, considering the number of registered voters, very small. Out of a total vote of 4, - 393 for Governor, H. H. Haight received a majority of 631. Geo Pearce, of Petaluma, received a majority over J. M. Coghlan for Congress, of 589. The following county officers were elected : For Senator to fill the unexpired terin of Wm. Bennett, deceased, B. F. Tuttle, of Petaluma ; members of Assembly, B. B. Munday, Wm. Caldwell, and E. C. Henshaw, of Big Valley ; Clerk, W. R. Mor- ris ; Recorder, W. H. Bond ; District Attorney, Barclay Henley ; Sheriff, Edward Latapie, of Petaluma ; Treasurer, G. T. Pauli ; As- sessor, W. C. Gaines ; Superintendent of Schools, Geo. W. Jones ; County Surveyor, J. B. Wood ; Public Administrator, L. B. Hall ; Coroner, Charles Humphries ; Road Commissioner, R. Head ; County Judge, A. P. Overton.
For President in 1872 there were but 3, 301 votes cast, and a ma- . jority of 99 for Grant ; while for Congressman there were 3,365 votes cast, of which Luttrell had a majority of 63.
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SONOMA COUNTY.
VALUE OF LAND.
Real estate is generally rated high in Sonoma as well as in Napa county. The county is divided into thirteen townships. Petaluma, including the city of Petaluma, and extending North ; Vallejo, in- cluding the hill country lying East and Northeast of Petaluma ; So- noma, including the town and valley of Sonoma ; Santa Rosa, in- cluding the town of that name and surrounding country ; Anally, including towns of Sebastopol and Bloomfield, and intermediate country ; Mendocino, including town of Healdsburg, the rich sur- rounding country, and extending down the valley of Russian River ; Cloverdale, including the town of that name and country surround- ing, to the Lake and Mendocino county lines, and a great part of the mountainous country West ; Washington, lying between Men- docino and Cloverdale townships, and extending East to the Napa and Lake county lines ; Salt Point, lying along the ocean South of the Mendocino line ; Ocean, lying South of Salt Point township and extending down to Russian River ; Bodega, lying along the coast South of Russian River, and including Coleman Valley and the towns of Freestone, Bodega Corners, and Bodega Port ; Red- wood, lying in the great redwood district of the county, and Russian River, lying along that river South of Mendocino township. The land in these townships is divided by the Assessor into four grades, - called respectively First, Second, Third, and Fourth Quality. The first quality land is assessed at from $75 to $150 per acre, according to location ; second quality from $50 to $75 ; third quality, from $25 to $50 ; fourth quality, $1 to $25. Santa Rosa, Sonoma, and Mendocino, are the principal Townships having large quantities of land of the first and second quality ; of the third quality, Vallejo, Petaluma, and Anally are principal ; of the fourth quality, Mendo- cino, Santa Rosa, and Annally have the largest quantities, though Salt Point and Ocean have no other kind. The Assessor's returns show the following : - First quality, 5, 5893 acres ; average value per acre, $107.142 ; second quality, 11, 86y2 acres, average per acre; $56. 32 ; third quality, 119, 8012 acres, average per acre, $30.322 ; fourth quality, 485, 344 acres, average per acre, $9.08}. The land of the fourth quality is principally hilly and mountainous, suited only to grazing and to growing the vine. The third comprises the lands
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along the foot-hills, and the greater part of it is excellent vineyard land, and well adapted to growing many other kinds of productions. "The first and second qualities comprise the great body of agricul- tural lands of the county, and those convenient to market. Here is the home of the cereals, the fruits, etc. Here are located the towns of the county, and are established the most wealthy and substantial citizens.
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CHARLES HOPPER,
MENDOCINO COUNTY.
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GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
SCENE AT THE MOUTH OF THE ALBION RIVER.
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CHAPTER 1.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
We now come to the last and the largest of the four counties of which this volume treats. Mendocino county lies along the shore of the Pacific Ocean from the mouth of the Gualala River to the fortieth parallel, and is bounded on the East by Lake county almost entirely, and North by Humboldt and Trinity counties. The line between Mendocino and Lake follows the dividinggridge between the waters of Russian River and the waters of the Sac- ramento, until it reaches a point at about thirty miles North- cast of Ukiah, when it crosses one branch of Eel River in a line due North, and then takes the divide between the waters of Fel and Sacramento Rivers.
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MENDOCINO COUNTY.
The length of the county North and South is about eighty miles, having an average width of about sixty miles. It has an area of more than 2,000,000 acres, of which nearly half is suita- ble for cultivation, about one-tenth good grazing land, and the re- mainder rugged hills and mountains. Two almost parallel ranges of the coast mountains extend through the whole length of the county. The range on the East is a continuation of the Mayacamas Mountains. In this range, near Potter's Valley, rise the two largest rivers of this section, Russian and Eel; and between it and the Western range are the valleys of the county. In the Western range rise quite a number of streams, some of them of considerable vol- ume that flow Westerly into the ocean. None of these little streams are navigable, but many of them are made serviceable by lumber- men, both in floating logs down to the mills and also in furnishing power to turn the machinery. Many of these streams form estuaries where they flow into the ocean, and these estuaries afford fair ship- ping places. Many other streams rise in the slopes East and West of the chain of valleys between the main ranges and flow into either the Eel or Russian River. Thus it will be perceived that Mendo- cino is one of the best watered counties in the State. Along the whole Western slope for over one hundred miles, and extending back from ten to thirty miles, lies the great redwood district of the county. This whole vast area is covered by one dense and almost impenetrable forest of giant trees from two to four hundred feet high, and from ten to sixty feet in circumference. East of this tim- bered section is a tract of open country of great value as a pastoral district.
The county is divided into three geographical sections : That con- sisting of Sanel, Ukiah, Redwood and Potter Valleys, from which flow the waters of Russian River southerly ; that consisting of Little Lake, Sherwood, Long Valley and Round Valley, from which the water flows Northward through Eel River to Humboldt Bay, and that consisting of a strip of country from twelve to twenty miles wide lying immediately upon the coast, intersected by the Garcia Nevarra, Albion, Rio Grande, Noyo, and Ten-Mile Rivers, all run- ning nearly West into the ocean. The first named division is ag-
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GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
ricultural and pastoral, the former predominating. The second is agricultural and pastoral, the latter predominating.
THE COAST DIVISION.
The third is agricultural, pastoral, and lumbering, the latter being by far the predominating industry. This latter section is mainly heavily timbered with redwood and fir, interspersed with pine, laurel, madronas, live oak, burroak, etc. Along the immediate bank of the ocean is a strip of open land of great fertility, from one to three miles wide. The shore is generally a bluff rock fifty feet high, there being not more than twenty-five miles of beach in the whole stretch of over one hundred miles.
The principal shipping points are Noyo, Caspar, Mendocino, Al- bion, Nevarra, Little River, Salmon Creek, Cuffey's Cove, Point Arena, and Gualala. There are numerous other places where the shipping of railroad ties, bark, posts, wood, etc., is carried on, but they are mostly dangerous except in the calmest weather. Little River, Cuffey's Cove and Fish Rock are the safest roadsteads, while Albion and Noyo offer safe anchorage for vessels that are taken up the river. The other shipping places are only protected from wind and waves in one direction. At nearly all the shipping points men- tioned are situated sawmills with a varying capacity of from ten to twenty-five thousand feet per day. Over 'three hundred thousand feet were once sawed in one day at the Mendocino mill, on an extraordinary occasion, in twelve hours. The same mill once sawed eighty-six thousand feet of lumber from one redwood tree. At the Noyo mill a plank twelve feet long and seven feet wide was sawed for the Mechanics' Institute. The average annual production of lumber from these mills has been over forty-five million feet for the last two or three years. These mills are grand concerns. Most of them cost from $20,000 to $60,000. The one at the mouth of the Albion was erected at a cost ot $35,000 ; at the mouth of the Gualala, $30,000 ; at the mouth of the Nevarra, $30,000; at Men_ docino City, $60,000. When driven by a press of work they some- times run night and day, and at such times it requires a very large force of men to work them.
The agricultural productions of this section consists principally of
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MENDOCINO COUNTY.
hay, oats and potatoes ; plums, pears and apple do well, but the softer fruits and corn, tomatoes and melons do not grow well nor ripen. The temperature is very equable, but inimical to persons troubled with throat and lung difficulties and rheumatism. At Fort Bragg, near the Noyo River, the mercury remained between 65° and 75º Fahrenheit for eighteen months. The rushing wind and driving logs are the only disagreeable features.
THE RUSSIAN RIVER DIVISION.
The first geographical division, comprising that portion lying upon the waters of Russian River, is particularly favored in respect to climate; the lowest range of the mercury in twelve years having been 16° and the highest 112º. The upper valleys, particularly, have afforded a residence for asthmatic persons, almost entirely relieving them of any return of the disease. The climate of these valleys is quite humid, and being so elevated, and more subject to the coast winds and fogs, is colder than the valleys further South and East. In Summer the forenoons are warm, but the sea breeze springs up near the middle of the day and tempers the air to a delight- ful coolness. Snow sometimes falls upon the hills surround- ing the valleys, but rarely to lie upon the ground more than a week or less, and seldom falling in the valleys at all. In this division is situated Ukiah City, the county seat, with a popu- lation of about 1,000. The town is situated upon a gravelly bench sloping gently towards the main valley on the East, backed by a high chimisal mountain on the West, with the Valley of Ukiah (Indian, To-ky-zah) stretching North and South for about ten miles, and in the East beyond the Clear Lake range rising in broken, bushy masses, to guide the eye grandly up to the blue horizon. This valley was covered with the Zokaya Grant, owned by Hastings, Curry & Carpentier, of eleven leagues, and was surveyed and sold in lots to suit purchasers. The land brought higher prices than were ever before realized from a grant of its size and location in the State. The soil along Russian River, which flows through its center, is a sandy loam, and produces all the small grains, hops, tobacco, corn and fruit, in the greatest perfection. The best land now commands fifty dollars per acre. Ukiah, the county seat, has one shoe store, one grocery and provision store, two drug stores, two stationery and
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fancy stores, six dry goods and grocery stores, two furniture stores, two livery stables, seven saloons, four churches, Masonic, Odd Fel- lows' and Good Templar Halls, several milinery shops, etc.
South of Ukialı, fourteen miles, lies the town of Sanel, in Feliz Valley, named from the valley being covered by a grant owned by a. family of that name. This town contains two stores, one saloon, one blacksmith shop, and seven or eight dwellings. From its vicinity was sent the first deed recorded in the county. The deed was from Louis and Beatrice Peña to Richard Harrison, of 500 acres of the Feliz grant, for consideration of $2,000. The first mortgage was from Wm. Heeser to W. H. Kelly, mortgaging what now con- stitutes a good part of the town of Mendocino. for the penal sum of $4,000.
North of Ukiah, twelve miles, lies Potter Valley, so called from the Potter brothers who first settled there in August, 1853. This valley is seven miles long from Northeast to Southwest, and an aver- age width of two miles. In it is about 4,000 acres of good corn land and several thousand more adapted to small grains. Fruit and grapes do well, and the climate is about three degrees cooler than in Ukiah. Asthmatic persons are almost entirely cured by a residence there. The East branch of Russian River rises in this valley. The North end of the valley reaches to within one and a half miles of the South branch of the North Fork of Eel River, and the low gap affords the best route for a railroad to connect San Francisco Bay and Hum- boldt Bay. Two small towns are laid out in this valley three miles apart-Centreville and Pomo-each consisting of a store, blacksmith shop, saloon, hotel, and four or five dwellings. The soil of the val- ley is sandy loam and black loam, tapering off to light sand soil or «lobe as you go up the hills surrounding the valley.
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