USA > California > Napa County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 3
USA > California > Lake County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 3
USA > California > Sonoma County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 3
USA > California > Mendocino County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 3
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27
33
NAPA COUNTY-GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
(amended Feb. 29, 1864) and became a portion of Lake county. At the last session of the Legislature a further change was made, changing its northern line, and giving a portion of Lake county to Napa. Lake county still bounds Napa on the north, but the dividing line cannot yet be given, as no map is yet made which exhibits the changes made by legislation. It is bounded on the west by Sonoma, on the south by Solano, and on the east by Solano and Yolo counties. It is divided, for all legal purposes, into three town- ships-Napa, Yount, and Hot Springs. A good general idea of the topography of Napa county may be obtained by considering it as consisting of three nearly parallel series of valleys (like the spaces between the four fingers of the hand) running in a north- westerly and south-easterly direction, and approximately parallel with the trend of the Pacific coast. These valleys are separated by ranges of mountains and hills, with innumerable spurs, at varying angles, which, although they detract somewhat from the agricultural value of our lands, add greatly to the beauty of the scenery of Napa. The main dividing ranges consist of mountains from 500 to 2,500 feet high. The Mayacamas mountains separate into two branches in the county of Sonoma, one of which forms the boundary between Napa and Sonoma, and are united by various spurs with the general coast range, which, with a few interruptions, extends southeasterly, the entire length of the State. The other branch bounds the valley of Napa on the east. It is exceedingly difficult, and perhaps impos- sible, by any mere written description, to convey any adequate idea of the mountains of California. If we say, in general terms, that any two ranges are parallel, we do not tell the exact truth, for these ranges are in many places united with each other by mountains run- ning in all directions, some of which are as high as those which form the ranges themselves. It would perhaps be as near the truth to say that our mountains form a stupendous net-work, irregularly woven, with occasional threads running in nearly parallel lines.
The mountain range which bounds Napa on the east, contains sev- eral peaks of considerable elevation, the highest being Mount St. Hel- ena, supposed to be an extinct volcano, 4,343 feet high. North of the same twelve miles, is Pine Mountain, nearly as high as St. Helena. Directly east of Napa City, at a distance of three miles is "Bald Moun- tain," a lofty peak in the general chain which forms the eastern boun-
34
NAPA COUNTY AS IT WAS AND IS.
dary of the county. There are many other peaks to which local names have been given, but their altitudes have not been measured. This range every where shows evidence of volcanic action. In some places the rocks, generally a species of whitish sandstone, stand nearly in a vertical position, showing that the original crust has been broken up by internal convulsions. In others the surface is formed of volcanic ashes, or of rocks bearing evidence of the action of fire. Portions of this range are rocky and bare, but most of them are clothed to the summit with chemisal, "grease-wood" and other small shrubs of great beauty, whose dark green hides the deformities of the shattered rocks from which they spring. Here, as all over the State, the peculiar vegetation upon the mountains gives them a beauty not found in mountains at the east. On their lower portions the pine, redwood, manzanita and madrona attain a vigorous growth. The same trees are also found occasionally, although dwarfed, upon the highest peaks.
The evidence of mighty internal convulsions in past ages, are vis- ible all over Napa and Lake counties. The topographical character of this region must, at some time, have undergone a complete change. Many of the mountains were volcanoes, as is proved by the existence of old craters, volcanic ashes, melted scoriæ, obsidian and pumice stone. Some of the hills and mountains must once have been below the level of the sea. At Knoxville, within a mile of the Redington mine, 40 miles from the ocean, and at least 1, 200 feet above its level, there is a large tract of limestone rock almost entirely composed of fossil sea shells. Oysters, clams, muscles, cockles, and many other kinds of shell fish, are found in vast quan- tities, and as perfect in form as when they were living in their native element. The petrified forests near Calistoga also give evidence of volcanic changes. All the valleys were unquestionably once sub-
merged. Below the alluvial surface soil is a bed of clay, varying in depth, and then a bed of rounded, water-worn pebbles and small bowlders, in horizontal strata, which may be seen in many localities along the banks of the present water courses. No other agency than that of running water could have rounded these pebbles and spread them out in regular strata over so great an area. No one who has attentively examined this region can doubt that sometime in the re- mote past, our hills and mountains were islands, whose shore-lines
35
NAPA COUNTY-GENERAL DESCRIPTION. 1166924
were far above the present level of the streams, and that fishes once sported where men now cultivate their fields and erect their habita- tions. Nothing else than some great convulsion of nature could have wrought such a change, and it may well be that the tradition current among the Indians, that the Golden Gate was opened by an earthquake, may commemorate it. The existence of almost count- less mineral and hot springs, the abundance of sulphur impregnating the rocks and soil in many localities, and the proximity of this coun- ty to the Geysers in Sonoma, and the Sulphur banks and gas springs of Lake county, show that we are within the scope of the great sub- terranean agencies that have changed, and may again, the whole face of the country.
The great central valley between the two branches of mountains named, is about thirty-five miles long and widens gradually towards its southern extremity to about five miles. The upper portion beyond St. Helena, is quite narrow-in some places less than a mile wide. Its general course is about N. 30° W. It is traversed through its whole extent by Napa River, which gives its name to the county. This stream is quite tortuous, especially in the southern portions, where it passes through a large tract of level tule land. It runs gen- erally close to the foot hills on the east side of the valley.
All the valleys in the county are approximately level, but with a gradual descent towards the southwest.
All are intersected by water courses, whose sinuous banks are fringed with trees and shrubs. Laurel, live oaks, buckeyes, manza- nitas, alders, willows and the ash, are the principal trees. Of shrub- bery there is a great variety, among which we name the ceanothus or California lilac, elder, bay, and hazel nut. There are also in many places, large tracts covered with a species of dwarf holly, bearing beautiful red berries in heavy clusters. Wild grape vines abound along every stream, and used to afford the grizzly a considerable por- tion of his provisions during the fall.
Except in the mountains there is no heavy timbered land in the county. The land when fenced is all ready for the plow. Away from the water courses, every valley is dotted over with majestic oaks of several varieties, with occasional gigantic madronas, whose bright green leaves and reddish bark give them, at a distance, the appearance of orange trees. In the northern portions of the coun-
1
36
NAPA COUNTY AS IT WAS AND IS.
ty, besides the trees named, are found firs, pines, cedars and red- woods. Very few of the latter, however, are found north of Howell Mountain, east of St. Helena. Upon this mountain sugar pines are found six feet in diameter, and of enormous height. The "bull pine," is found in all parts of the county, but is almost worthless ex- cept for timber, and very inferior, even for that. Indeed, we may here properly remark that we have very little "hard wood" timber, that isof much value except forfuel. All kind of oaks that grow here are brittle and worthless. The ash is rare and inferior, and almost all our supplies of oak, ash and hickory are brought from the East. The laurel is a beautiful wood for furniture, but of little value for other purposes.
Where man has not changed the natural condition of things, the surface of all our valleys is densely covered for several months of the year with clover, wild oats, and flowers of great beauty, which afford food and covert to great numbers of quail, hare and rabbits. The larger valleys are in some parts quite narrow, where the foot-hills project at a large angle. Their surface is also diversified by isolated hills, which stand like green islands in an ocean of level verdure.
WEST SIDE OF THE VALLEY.
The mountains on the westerly side of Napa Valley put forth va- rious spurs and foot-hills, forming several minor valleys. Among these, on the southerly slope, are Carneros and Huichica Valleys, and on the eastern, near Napa City, Brown's Valley, one of the most fertile and picturesque in the State. On the eastern declivity rises a small stream called Napa Creek, which empties into Napa River at Napa City. This creek, like all the water-courses in California, car- ries a large volume of water in the rainy season, but is insignificant in summer, although never wholly dry.
In early spring, during the spawning season, salmon of large size, are often caught in these streams, many miles from tide water. The writer has caught several that weighed from 7 to 103 pounds in the Carneros, five miles from its mouth, where the water was not a foot deep. Many are stranded upon the shoals when the water falls, upon the cessation of the rains.
37
NAPA COUNTY-GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
Gold has been found in small quantities in Huichica Creek, but none has ever been found in Napa county in paying quantities.
Another creek rising in the same range, called Sulphur Creek, and passing through the cañon upon which the celebrated White Sul- phur Springs are situated, two miles west from St. Helena, runs eastward into Napa River. Cinnabar has been found in these moun- tains, and several claims are now being worked, further notice of which will be found in the chapter on mines and minerals. Red- wood timber was formerly abundant upon the lower portion of this range, but it is now rapidly disappearing. The demand for building purposes and fencing has increased so rapidly that our supplies are now mostly obtained from Mendocino and Humboldt.
EAST SIDE OF THE VALLEY.
The range of mountains bounding Napa Valley on the East, are generally somewhat higher than those on the West, and of the same geological character. Seen from the valley, these mountains pre- sent a most picturesque and varied outline. Indeed, in our won- derfully clear Summer atmosphere, every mountain seems where meeting the sky, sharp cut as a cameo, exhibiting its dark green fo- liage in vivid contrast with the cloudless blue of the heavens.
The passes through this range to the series of valleys Eastward, are generally steep and difficult in their present condition, although heavy sums have been expended in improving them. None, how- ever, are beyond the skill of the engineer, with an adequate outlay. The principal road at present in use through this range is the one leading from Napa City to Monticello in Berryessa Valley, and thence to Knoxville and Lower Lake. Knoxville is the seat of the celebrated Redington Mines, and was named after Mr. Knox, the first lessee of the mines, of which we shall have occasion to speak hereafter. This road was built partly by a subscription of $4,000, and partly by contributions from the General Road Fund, and the Road Funds of the Districts through which it passes. Its original cost was about $12,000, and a large amount has since been expen- ded upon it. Two roads cross the range from St. Helena by way of Howell Mountain to Pope Valley. The "old road " is now
38
NAPA COUNTY AS IT WAS AND IS.
little used. The new grade, surveyed by T. J. Dewoody, formerly County Surveyor, is one of the best mountain roads in the State. The steepest grade in it is one foot in eight. Another road passes from Calistoga, over the South side of Mt. St. Helena to Lake County, another Southwestward to Santa Rosa, the County Seat of Sonoma, and another Westward to Russian River Valley and Healds- burg.
In the range separating Pope Valley from Napa are numerous Quicksilver mines, which are now being successfully worked, at- tracting a considerable immigration, and affording a home market for many farm products. Cinnabar is found in this range for a dis- tance of twenty miles North of the Pope Valley Mines. Another road passes from Napa Valley through Conn Valley and cañon, into Chiles Valley, which is connected with Pope, only a low " di- vide " intervening. This road presented to the engineers most for- midable difficulties, the cañon through which the road passes for some five or six miles, being very steep on both sides, and so nar- row as to afford only room for a small stream called Conn Creek. This creek when suddenly swollen by rains often rises to a great height within a few hours, sweeping every thing before it. The road formerly passed along its bed, but of course, in the rainy sea- son it was useless as a highway. The grade has been raised and great- ly improved, being protected for long distances by substantial stone walls. Portions of it, however, are still very steep and narrow, and a large sum will be necessary to make it a good road even for Sum- mer travel. To place it beyond the reach of floods would probably require a much higher grade and a reconstruction of the whole road.
THE MINOR VALLEYS.
The valleys East of the mountains separating Napa Valley from Pope are comparatively narrow and short, and are connected by roads passing over moderate elevations. Beginning with Coyote Valley in Lake County, on the North we pass into Pope Valley over a very steep hill, high enough to pass for a mountain in England. The latter valley is about ten miles long, and in some places three miles wide. It is dotted over with fine oaks, with occasional pines
39
NAPA COUNTY-GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
and madronas. A large portion of it is excellent grain land ; other parts being gravelly and sandy, would be better adapted to fruit or vines. It is still very sparsely settled, except immediately about the quicksilver mines, and the price of land is very moderate. This valley is connected with Chiles by a road which passes over a low " divide." Chiles Valley is about five miles long, and is very fertile.
In a southerly direction are Gordon Valley, about five miles long, and Wooden Valley, of still less dimensions. Connected with the valleys thus far named, and at various angles on both sides of the mountains, where the main range is broken into branches extending easterly or westerly, are numerous smaller valleys, each having a communication more or less direct with all the rest. Thus Foss, Wild Horse, Wooden, Gordon and Conn Valleys connect directly with the main valley of Napa.
The valleys of Lake county are also connected with each other and with those of Napa, forming a chain of valleys, large and small, each of which has its own peculiar beauty. Among them are many only large enough for a single farm, but all possess similar charac- teristics of soil and climate. Some of them are apparently encir- cled wholly by mountains as is a jewel by its setting, beautiful in themselves, yet almost completely isolated. About twelve miles Northeast from Napa City on the east side of the dividing ridge, is the small but beautiful Capel Valley, apparently shut out from all the world, but connected with Napa City by a mountain road, and with Berryessa Valley by a canon six miles long. Coal has been found here, but little is known of its extent or value.
East of Pope Valley is another range of mountains, some of which are very lofty and precipitous. Commencing at the Redington Mines, which are near the Northerly boundary of the County, the traveler passes Southeastwardly through Sulphur Canon. This cañon is very steep and narrow, but occasionally widening out so as to afford a limited area of arable land. It is about twelve miles long, and is traversed by a small creek, with high and steep banks, very crooked, and crossing the road many times, making a difficult thoroughfare for the traveler.
This cañon opens into Berryessa Valley, which is about fourteen miles long, and from one to three miles wide, next in size to Napa Valley, and scarcely second to it in beauty and productiveness. It
40
NAPA COUNTY AS IT WAS 'AND IS.
has been settled within the past four years, and yields a very large amount of wheat of the best quality. The new town of Monticello is in this valley, about twenty-five miles from Napa City.
An almost continuous wall of exceedingly steep and lofty moun- tains separates Sulphur Cañon and Berryessa Valley on the east from the level lands of Yolo and the Sacramento plains. The northern part of this range has, from its perpendicular western side and level, horizontal outline, received the local name of "Table Mountain."
Berryessa Valley is watered by Putah Creek, which at its foot takes an easterly direction, cutting off the continuity of the mountain chain, and passing for six miles through a most rugged, rocky and difficult cañon, and emerging into the level plain at Wolfskill's, on the northern boundary of Solano county. Until the building of the Putah Creek bridge and Berryessa road leading to Napa City, the productions of Berryessa Valley could only reach a market at Sacra- mento by traversing this cañon, or at Suisun by travelling Rag Cañ- on, almost equally bad, and thence by way of Gordon and Green Valleys. But neither of these routes, bad as they were, could be taken in winter, when the Putah was swollen, and the plains beyond Wolfskill's were under water. The few inhabitants of the valley four years ago, could only leave it by swimming their horses, and crossing the mountains to Pope Valley, from which communication
to other points was practicable. The construction of the Putah Creek bridge and the opening of the road from Monticello to Napa have removed this difficulty, and the whole valley having been pur- chased four or five years since by Messrs. John Lawley, J. H. Bost- wick and Wm. Hamilton, and cut up into small farms, Berryessa lands have risen in price 500 per cent., and are considered equal to any in the State for every agricultural purpose.
-
41
CLIMATE OF NAPA COUNTY.
CHAPTER III.
CLIMATE OF NAPA COUNTY.
The climate in all parts of the county is mild and semi-tropical, but varies considerably in different localities. Those portions which are partially sheltered by mountains from the prevailing winds have the most equable temperature, and those far from tide water have the greatest extremes of heat and cold. In no part, however, are these extremes so great as in the northern counties of the State. The contrast between the climate of San Francisco and other towns on or near the ocean and that of the interior is remarkable. The change is as great in traveling from San Francisco to Napa, distant only fifty miles, as from New York to Florida. When the lightest summer clothing is worn in Napa, heavy overcoats are generally quite comfortable near the ocean. San Francisco has a more equa- ble temperature than the interior, and is free from frosts throughout the year, but it is always many degrees colder, and exposed, during a portion of the year, to a harsh sea breeze and heavy fogs, which
42
NAPA COUNTY AS IT WAS AND IS.
are unpleasant to strangers. The lower end of Napa Valley is open to the breeze, which passes northeasterly throughout its entire length, about forty-five miles, and keeps down the extremes of heat and cold to a remarkable degree. The lower part of the valley, south of Napa City, being level, is exposed to its direct action, but not to so great an extent as to be disagreeable. The wind is greatly modi- fied in its force and temperature in passing over the warm surface of the land, and its effects are felt less and less as it penetrates inland. Probably the pleasantest climate is found in and near Napa City. The sea breeze, by passing over a long stretch of level land, loses its roughness, and yet keeps down the heat of summer, and renders the winters mild. The farther north, in the valley, the greater the extremes of temperature. About Napa City the thermometer scarce- ly ever gets beyond 80°, although it has been, in rare instances, as high as 105°. In winter ice is sometimes formed at night half an inch thick upon standing water, but it disappears the next morning before the heat of the sun. Snow is a great rarity in this part of the valley. None has fallen about Napa City, except in three instances, during the past twenty years, and then to the depth of only half an inch. The surrounding mountains sometimes put on a snowy man- tle for a few hours, but it soon disappears. The towns further North have a little more snow, being on higher ground and further from tide water, but never sufficient to cover the ground more than a few hours. Mount St. Helena, however, sometimes wears its diadem of snow for several weeks. The smaller valleys, being shut out from the sea breeze, are hotter and colder than the valley of Napa, but there is no part of the county where out-door work is unpleasant in the coldest part of the year. In many busi- ness houses no fires are lighted from January to December. In re- gard to temperature, the climate is not unlike that of Savannah, Georgia. Many of the more hardy plants and vegetables grow throughout the year. Most varieties of roses never lose their leaves, and flowers are plucked in December. Cabbages, beets, and many other garden vegetables grow during the winter, and hardy vegeta- bles of several kinds are often sown as early as the first of January.
The first rains generally fall in October, and continue at intervals until May, and by the middle of December the whole county is as green as the Eastern States are in May, and beautiful beyond des-
CLIMATE OF NAPA COUNTY. 43
cription. Strangers are apt to suppose that the "rainy season" is one of continuous rain, and exceedingly unpleasant. It is, how- ever, excepting a few days, the pleasantest part of the year, with a bright sun and almost cloudless skies. Indeed the month of Feb- ruary is generally the most delightful in the whole year.
No shelter is required for cattle during the rainy months. Do- mestic animals thrive with little attention during the coldest portion of the year. There is, however, a short period between the spring- ing of the grass and its growth, when they require a small supply of food. In the dry season, when the grass has withered, they still find abundant nourishment. There being no rains in summer, the grass, wild oats, and various kinds of clover, are changed into hay where they grew, retaining all their nutritious qualities. The seeds also falling to the ground, are eagerly devoured by cattle. This remark does not apply to Napa county alone, but to most parts of Califor- nia. The farmer here has little need of barns or sheds for any pur- pose. In summer he can leave his grain in the field unthreshed or in sacks. He can leave his hay in stacks without protection for months, and is never obliged to obey the proverb about "making hay while the sun shines," being perfectly sure that not a drop of rain will fall before the latter part of September or the first of Oc- tober. However, during the early part of the haying season light showers occasionally fall. Sometimes these Spring showers are suf- ficient to give the farmer considerable trouble about his hay, but it is rare that they do much damage.
We have described the practice of our early farmers. It was rough and rude enough. Many cattle were lost yearly from ex- posure and lack of food. The later comers from the East have brought their ideas with them, and it is now pretty well understood that adequate shelter for cattle is a good thing, economically con- sidered. A better supply of food than the open range afforded, is now one of the things towards which the intelligent stock-raiser directs his attention. Under the old system, cattle could generally live, but when the question of profit came in, it was found best to resort to the old and sure practice of Winter feed and shelter. As our lands become more and more subdivided, a new system will take place of the old, and probably, our old plan of stock-raising may give place to another, which affords a certainty of the con-
.
44
NAPA COUNTY AS IT WAS AND IS.
tinued health of animals in the worst weather, and a good arti- cle of beef for market at all times of the year.
The mean temperature in the shade, at Napa City, will be found at the end of the volume.
-
45
PROGRESS OF THE CITY AND COUNTY.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.