USA > California > Napa County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 21
USA > California > Lake County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 21
USA > California > Sonoma County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 21
USA > California > Mendocino County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 21
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bottom lands of our creeks, in the greatest nce, while the uplands are covered with ts and clover.
which lies West, on the Western tiles Easterly is Guilicos Valley, on
e the public buildings, there is a fine academy es and females, (accommodating 250 pupils;) Iroad from Donahoe and Petaluma et school, (numbering over 60 children; ) two s, two resident preachers, nine resident law- rt of the town, and stages connect e physicians, two notaries public, one print- and the Coast country. A good road ountains to Calistoga. The valley of e, from which two publications are issued, five private residences, nine dry goods and stores, one drug-store, one hardware store, els, two restaurants, two drinking saloons, long with an average width of six miles. uerrean galleries, one saddler shop, one bar- perfect garden, so thorough is the cul- settled in 1852, but did not increase one tailor shop, one shoemaker shop, one hop, eleven Jews, one paint shop, three car- hops, two butcher shops, one cabinet shop, smith shops, one pump shop, one bakery, 1855 it was selected as the county seat, first-class livery stables.
pulation of the town proper, is about 400. se was erected, and the records of the fate is mild and salubrious, not being trou- his gave a great impulse to the pros- inch by fogs and high winds, as the towns iz the coast. The greatest drawback is the s been steadily improving ever since condition of land titles-not peculiar to our ity-and these are in process of adjustment. to Petaluma in size and business pros- perity. Fine oak trees surround the town, and a well fenced and improved plaza, ornamented with shrubs and flowers, is situated near the center. The Court House, to the North of this plaza, is an imposing edifice of brick, and the Hall of Records near by is like-
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SONOMA 18K8 AINS ND8
Half a mile West of town is the [ATB residence of Gen. M. G. Vallejo. IZES highly improved, and is now one where to be found. A large and c hills supplies an artificial pond, in reared, and gives ample facilities fo Here nearly every variety of grape nearly two feet in diameter throw the, and ornamental shrubbery adorns orange, olive, lemon, pomegranate grow and bear well, and form a b quince, pear and other fruits. The road to the residence was constructed The residence is truly palatial, and : in fact, everything that go to make }
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DONAHO
The little town of Donahoe is pure and dates its existence only since Mr." of the North Pacific Railroad. It is old landing known as Lakeville, on a all the conveniences of water transpor nected by stage lines with Sonoma an &c. rich agricultural district. The railroa perfectly lever for several miles. Ve anywhere on the road:
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PETALUMA
The largest town in Sonoma coun oldest, is Petaluma. It is situated on the head of navigation, and is an imsTs. county. The land to the East and Sou adobe soil. Much of that towards the Southwest is commonly called tule land, and overflows from the rise and fall of the tides. Across the valley to the East rise the high hills separating Sonoma from Petaluma Valleys. To the West of the town lie hills extending
PAPER HANGINGS, To be Sold within Sixty Da GREAT BARGAINS ARE OFF
As the anrira Stock on hand MUST BE SOLD moving to our New Store, Southwest Corner California and M ory streets.
KENNEDY & BE my31-tf
PAPER HANGIN
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TO THE TRADE.
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G. W. CLAR
No. 181 Clay street,
FTAS. ON THE WAY, AND TO within the next thirty and sixty days, In Hangings,
Per clipper ship " Cherubim ; "
Do
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"Endeavor :"
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"Shooting Star;"
DO do
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"' Lotus : "
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' Golden Fleece;"
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" Queen of the Pacific
Do
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"' Mary Robinson : "
Do
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"Don Quixote;"
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" Sumatra : "
Besides having the best Selected Stock, now found in this city, and for sale to the trade a in Prices.
Purchasers will please examine my styles o ings, which they will find superior to any in t Remember, the only store in this city, whe ings are sold exclusively, is at
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REMOVI
WE HAVE REMOVED OUI
Depot of Havana TO THE Callfornia Exchange, corner Clay streets.
Our stock consists of the FINEST BRAN We have also received, per last steamer, GENUINE MEERSHAUM direct from Vienna, which will be sold at
" Jenny W. Paine :"
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back into Marin county. Most all of these hills are capable of being cultivated even to their summits. To the North opens the main valley. Good roads connect Petaluma with Tomales, Bloomfield, and other points towards the Coast, while the railroad passes through the Eastern portion of the town. The population is estimated to be near five thousand. It was incorporated in 1858. It has always been a progressive town, and the people alive to every movement of moral or material welfare. There have been several educational establishments started there. Some still survive and are doing well, while others have ceased. The public schools of Petaluma have been for many years among the best in the county. Most competent and experienced teachers have been employed, and the advancement of pupils marked. But more in regard to this in its proper place.
SANTA ROSA.
This town, the county seat of Sonoma, is most pleasantly and beautifully located on the creek of the same name. and near the. center of the valley. It is distant from Sonoma, Northwesterly, twenty-two miles, midway between Petaluma and Healdsburg, and about seven from Sebastopol, which lies West, on the Western boundary of the valley. Six miles Easterly is Guilicos Valley, on the road to Sonoma. The railroad from Donahoe and Petaluma passes through the Western part of the town, and stages connect there for Sonoma, Sebastopol and the Coast country. A good road leads across the Mavacamas Mountains to Calistoga. The valley of Santa Rosa is about ten miles long with an average width of six miles, and the greater part of it is a perfect garden, so thorough is the cul- tivation. The town was first settled in 1852, but did not increase much for several years. In 1855 it was selected as the county seat, and soon after the Court House was erected, and the records of the county transferred there. This gave a great impulse to the pros- perity of the place, and it has been steadily improving ever since and now stands second only to Petaluma in size and business pros- perity. Fine oak trees surround the town, and a well fenced and improved plaza. ornamented with shrubs and flowers, is situated near the center. The Court House, to the North of this plaza, is an imposing edifice of brick, and the Hall of Records near by is like-
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wise a fine structure. The Methodist College was transferred from Vacaville to this place, and the building erected is one of the best that can be found. The Christian College was completed in 1872. and is a great acquisition to the town.
HEALDSBURG.
Healdsburg is another prosperous town on the line of the railroad, situated in the Russian River Valley at a point where that river de- flects to the Southwest. It is situated near the confluence of this river with Dry Creek, a considerable stream flowing from the West. also with Knight's Creek flowing from the East, and having its source on the Western side of Mount St. Helena. In 1841 a large tract of land adjoining Healdsburg (eight square leagues of the finest of bottom land) was granted to a California family named Fitch. The country was principally used by them and others who settled in it for pasture lands for immense herds of cattle. Several of the members of this family still reside in the neighborhood of Healdsburg, but nearly .all of their extensive and valuable landed possessions have passed to other owners. About two miles East of the town stands an isola- ted peak over five hundred feet high named after this pioneer family, Fitch Mountain. From the summit of this mountain a view can be obtained which, for extent, beauty and grandeur, is second only to Mount St. Helena. The town was named after Harmon Heald, who established a store there in 1846 for the purpose of supplying the hunters, trappers and herders. It is located on a plain, and is most beautifully surrounded. Russian River flows to the East, Dry Creek in the valley to the West, while to the North lie gentle rolling hills covered with oaks, madronas and other kinds of timber. This town is the natural trade center of a very large and fertile area of country. The rich and extensive valleys of Russian River and Dry Creek sur- round it, while Knight's Valley lies to the East. All the travel to Skaggs Springs, and a great part of that to the Geysers, passes through here. Since the completion of the railroad the town has greatly increased, both in population and in material wealth.
CLOVERDALE.
Situated to the West of Russian River in one of Nature's richest
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and most attractive valleys, lies the small town of Cloverdale. This place is at the head of the main central valley of the county, and at the Northern terminus of the North Pacific Railroad. It is sur- rounded, except on the South, by lofty and picturesque mountains. There are good mountain roads connecting this place with Lakeport, Ukiah, Anderson Valley, and other points. The trade of the place consists mostly of agricultural and dairy products, wool, etc. Much of the trade to the Upper Lake passes through here. It is an im- portant stopping place for travelers to Mendocino and Lake counties.
OTHER PLACES.
Windsor is a small place on the line of the railroad, between Santa Rosa and Healdsburg-ten miles from the former place, six from the latter. The surrounding country is a fine farming section.
Sebastopol, seven miles West of Santa Rosa, is a small place on the Western side of the valley. On the East lies a fine section of rich alluvial land, through which passes the Laguna ; to the West, extending across to Green Valley, lie low, sandy hills, covered with oaks, scattering pine and undergrowth. The sandy soil, when cleared of the timber, produces well.
Bloomfield is a place of considerable importance, situated in the great potato region of Sonoma county, and near the center of what is called Big Valley. It is surrounded by bald hills, but which are of rich soil and are cultivated in potatoes or the cereals to their very summits. This is in the section of county subject to the heavy fog> and winds of the ocean. It is closely connected with Petaluma and with Preston's Point, a shipping place on Tomales Bay.
Four miles down (West) the valley from Bloomfield, is a little place known as Valley Ford. From Valley Ford, three miles North- erly, lies Freestone, another small hamlet, supplying the surrounding farmers, and the lumbermen in the redwoods a few miles North. The trade to the redwoods was formerly very great, but has fallen off much of late owing to the exhaustion of the timber from cutting ; still a very considerable trade is carried on. The whole of the country in and about Big Valley and Tomales look to these woods for their supplies of fencing timber and fuel.
About four miles West of Freestone is Bodega Corners, the most
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important town in that section. It supplies the farmers and dairy- men in the surrounding country; also the lumbermen in the red- woods. It is a great resort for these lumbermen on Sundays. It is connected with Santa Rosa, Petaluma, and Duncan's Mills, at the mouth of Russian River, by lines of stages. Its main shipping point is Bodega Port, situated on the Bay of the same name. This latter place has a good wharf, at which vessels of considerable size can load and unload.
At the mouth of Russian River, Mr. Duncan, several years ago established a saw mill. Other buildings have gradually followed till now there is quite a little village. A short distance south of the mouth of the river is a little roadstead where small vessels come in and load with lumber, dairy products, etc. But only in fair weather will they venture into the place. Along up the coast to Mendocino are several other roadsteads and coves, but nowhere along this line is there found safe anchorage in time of severe gales. At Timber Cove, fifteen miles north of Russian River, considerable lumber and dairy products are shipped. Salt Point. Fisherman's Bay, Fisk's Mill are among the more important of these roadsteads. At the mouth of the Gualala is situated a large saw mill, and vessels come in with comparative safety. The Gualala River rises in the moun- tains between Healdsburg and the ocean, flows a north-westerly and westerly direction, and empties into the ocean nearly twenty-five miles north of the mouth of Russian River. It flows through a very heavily timbered country, and is a favorite resort for hunters who love tramping over steep mountains, and across deep gorges, and having a rough time generally. There is a moderately good stage road running up the coast, but travel into the interior is performed over trails, and either on foot or horseback. Most all of the coun- try not heavily timbered is located for stock ranges.
Geyserville is a small place, near the line of the railroad, about seven miles North of Healdsburg. It is beautifully located, but is not favorably situated to amount to much as a business point. Knightsville is the name given to the hotel and surrounding houses in Knights Valley.
SKAGGS SPRINGS.
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by large numbers of people. One is the Soda Springs about three miles Northwest of Healdsburg, where an excellent quality of med- icated soda water may be had. It is bottled and shipped extensive- ly, and is well liked by most all who drink it. Closely connected with this soda spring is a seltzer spring, the waters of which are not exceeded for quality in the State.
About twelve miles Northwest of Healdsburg are the celebrated Skaggs Springs. The waters of these springs are highly impreg- nated with sulphur, iron, magnesia, borax and soda, and are noted for their medicinal virtues. The temperature of the water is from 1200 to 1403. There are ample facilities for the accommodation of guests. A fine hotel and cosy little cottages have been erected, and visitors always speak well of the kind reception and generous treat- ment they receive liere. Mr. Skaggs, the owner of the property, has spent a great amount of money here, and deserves the success he has attained. The mountains surrounding abound in game, and the streams in trout. The roads to these springs, and in fact all leading out of Healdsburg furnish excellent drives. The climate is pleasant, never disagreeably warm, and the nights always cool.
THE GEYSERS.
Next to the Yosemite Valley, the greatest of curiosities in the State is the collection of springs in Sulphur Creek Canon, known as the Geysers. They are extraordinary both on account of the chem- ical composition of the waters, and for the different appearances the spot presents at different times. There are two localities of hot springs, the Geysers and the Little Geysers. The name was given to these springs from their imagined resemblance to the Geysers of Iceland; though it must be confessed that the person who could see any marked resemblance had a vivid imagination. The Springs are situated in a deep gorge known as Pluton Canon, though really one main branch of Sulphur Creek, that empties into Russian River near the town of Cloverdale. The Geysers are about 1,700 feet above sea level, are surrounded by lofty and rugged mountains, and are situated about half way between Healdsburg and the lower end of Clear Lake. The locality of this strange subterranean chemical
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MOONLIGHT ON PLUTON CANYON.
. laboratory is wildly picturesque, and can only be reached by passing over roads that present to the view scenes of loftiest grandeur.
There are two roads leading to the Geysers, one from Healds- . burg, by way of Foss Station and the Hog's Back, called the old road ; the other from Calistoga, Napa county, by way of Knight's Valley, known as the new road. The road from Healdsburg passes over a gently rolling country for a few miles, and thence across Rus- sian River Valley. Near the foot-hills East of the valley, about eight miles from the town, is Foss Station, where the stages change horses. Bayard Taylor thus speaks of this piece of road :
" This is certainly the last created portion of our planet. Here the divine Architect has lingered over his work with reluctant fond- ness, giving it the final caressing touches, with which he pronounced
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it good. Our further journey seemed to be through some province of dreamland. As the valley opened again, and our course turned Eastward toward the group of lofty mountains in which the Pluton River lies hidden, visions of violet peaks shimmered afar, through the perfect trees. Headlands, crowned with colossal redwood, were thrust forward from the ranges on either hand, embaying between them the loveliest glens."
The scenery from the road from Foss Station up the mountains is gorgeous and picturesque. Pines, oaks, madronas, and other trees shade the road, while there is a thick undergrowth of buckeye, man- zanita, and other brush. High up the sides of the mountains are densely covered with chaparral. The road winds around mountains and deep cañons, till the highest point on the road is reached, called the Summit. This point is 3, 200 feet high. Before reaching the Summit the road winds around Sulphur Peak, which is, next to Mount St. Helena, the highest peak in this part of the Coast Range. It is one of the stations of the primary triangulation of the Coast Survey, and affords a view of great extent and grandeur. The great- er part of Russian River Valley, clothed in a misty violet bloom, lies far below, while peak beyond peak covered with the purple chemisal, rises to view. All around is a seemingly endless region of mountain waste divided by deep gorges and cañons. From the Summit the road passes along the celebrated Hog's Back. This is a ridge connecting two ranges of mountains, and from which on either side deep ravines put off. It is covered with a heavy growth of chemisal and chaparral brush. This part of the road has been compared to riding along the roof of a gothic church, but the per- son who drew the comparison either had never visited the spot, or had no regards for his character for veracity. One describing this ridge, after speaking about the road being only seven feet wide, says : " On each side the mountain plunges sheer down thousands of feet to the ravines below, the bottoms of which are invisible from the steepness of the sides." We passed over this famous Hog's Back with our own conveyance, and took ample time to note the sur- roundings. We have seen few prospects so wildly beautiful as the one here presented, but we protest against the steepness of the sides, the thousands of feet, and the invisibility. The description is a lit-
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tle more than the facts warrant. The descent down from the Hog's Back to the hotel at the Geysers is very tortuous, and in some places rather steep.
The road from Calistoga over, presents much of the same char- acter of scenery as this one, but not so wild. The road is a much better giade, but the magnificence of the view from the Summit and the Hog's Back is lost.
At the Geysers is a fine hotel, where everything is done to make visitors comfortable. The hotel stands on the Western bank of Pluton River, facing the side canon in which are the more notable springs. Along this cañon for a distance of quarter of a mile or more, and covering an area of several acres, numerous hot springs and steam jets occur. There are over three hundred of these springs and jets. The water varies from 200° to 210°. The springs are of various sizes, and the color of the matter emptied or deposited varies from that of the snow flake to the blackness of night. The waters hold in solution a great variety of salts. The sulphates of iron, lime and magnesia predominate. Epsom salts, tartaric acid, alum, mag- nesia and sulphur are found in great quantities incrusted on the rocks. These salts give the rocks a peculiarly vivid coloration. Farther down the cañon are extensive deposits of sulphur known as the Sul- phur Banks. It would seem that Nature has here instituted a grand chemical laboratory. All colors can be seen along the orifices of these springs and steam jets. The names given to many of the springs are peculiarly suggestive. One spring, called the "Devil's Inkstand," contains dark precipitate of sulphuret of iron, that is used to write the registries at the hotel. Another is called the "Devil's Gristmill, " from which spouts clean boiling water, and makes a noise precisely like the grinding of a mill. And many other places will be found, that both in appearance and name remind one of his Satanic majesty. . Then. there is a continuous subterranean roar, and in many places a tremulous sensation of the ground nearly all the time isexperienced. Besides, the stifling sulphurous steam jets, each making a sound peculiar to itself, and the noxious gases emitted, all combine to impress the visitor with the idea that he is near the con- fines of Tartarus. From one of the large vents in the ground. one that is about two feet in diameter. the steam escapes with a loud
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sound not very unlike that from the escape pipe of an'engine; from which it is called the Steamboat Geyser. The amount of steam ejected from this aperture is very great. The steam is quite hot, and often rises several hundred feet high; and it is ejected in regular pul- sations, as by an engine at work, each pulsation sending the steam up fifty to seventy-five feet. On the same side of the ravine as this Steamboat Spring and some fifty rods below, is the greatest attraction of this land of volcanic wonders-the Witch's Cauldron. It is an unfathomable pool, near seven feet in diameter, filled with a viscid, Stygian fluid, which, at a temperature of 200°, is continually boiling and splashing, seething and roaring, with a most unearthly smell and appearance. The rocks that form the back wall to this infernal fount are for many fect begrimed by the heat and sulphurous gases. and ornamented above with crystals of sulphur. The fetid odor of the sulphuretted hydrogen gas issuing from this Stygian bowl makes the visitor think that the stench from a whole wagon load of putrid eggs, suddenly mashed, would be a relief. There are other wonders here to be found, such as springs only a few feet apart, one cold and the other seething hot; and other springs issuing apparently from the same orifice, of waters of different color, smell, taste and chemical composition; some fissures through which steam will be issuing with a gentle murmuring sound, and one close by emitting a loud and terrible wheeze : one spring out of which spouts pure clear water, while one close by is secthing with a vile, miry, inky compound: one place where the visitor can get a breath of fresh air, another near by where he is suffocated by noxious, mephitic vapors; and many similar contrasts. "Here we would turn up a patch of brown, crumbly soil, and find a clay that looks like blue vitriol ; near by, under a shelving ledge, is a brisk, bubbling pool, overhung with ver- digris encrustings; a few feet off spurts a beaded jet of hot water which sheds a dismal brown casting over the surrounding earth ; a little way further still, is a spring that looks like pure hot ink ; then we discover a rock of alum that weighs two or three hundred pounds; then a small fountain of Epsom salts ; not far off, again, a basin ap- parently of boiling soap-suds; then iron springs, soda springs, white, red, and black sulphur springs; and soon a foul Stygian sluice, close to the wall, from which a steam exhales that covers the overhanging
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earth with a slimy deposit which eats your clothes, if you touch it, as ravenously as aqua fortis."* Yet, it is not at all times that these phenomena can be seen. At times, the steam is not rising from any of the apertures except in small quantities ; at other times the various vents puffing away, and the steam rising three or four hundred feet; at times very little commotion is experienced, and the subterranean forces seem slumbering; at others the din and tumult is deafening. It is stated that the hot water and acids are decom- posing the rocks around some of the most active Geysers, and the ground is gradually sinking.
About four miles up Pluton Cañon are situated the Little Geysers. They consist of a number of hot springs along a hillside. Many of the effects seen at the Geysers may here be witnessed; but the water is pure. Several forms of vegetation are seen growing in this volcanic . region. Some low forms of growth, such as algæ and conferva, grow on the surface of the water that stands at a temperature of from 1 90° to 200°. Ample bathing facilities are provided at the Geysers, and the baths are very exhilerating.
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