USA > California > Napa County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 22
USA > California > Lake County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 22
USA > California > Sonoma County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 22
USA > California > Mendocino County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 22
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The Geysers were first discovered in 1847, and have since been visited by tourists and pleasure-seekers in great numbers from almost every part of the world. Those who see it in favorable times, when the Grand Chemist has his works in full operation, are sublimely impressed with the scene. The surrounding hills furnish excellent hunting and fishing to those who enjoy this kind of recreation. The stage line over the road from Healdsburg to the Geysers was, until late years, owned by the world-renowed Foss. His line was put on during the era of stage driving (there is a story afloat about the late Horace Greeley, on his trip to California, experiencing some of the delights of this era) and he was second to none in the handling of horse, whip and lines. He now drives on the road from Calistoga, but is the same driver as formerly. Previous to the completion of the new road most of the travel passed through Healdsburg, but now- Calistoga gets the greater part.
TO TOURISTS.
To tourists seeking either pleasure or health, Sonoma presents
*T. Starr King.
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TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
many attractive features. Besides the watering places mentioned above. there are innumerable other places in the hills and moun- tains, where many of the attractions of these places may be found, and where the quiet and solitude of the surroundings add a charm not found at these great centers of fashionable resort. If the pleas- ures and excitements of fishing and hunting are the incentives for travel. let the mountains and vales remote from these places be chosen. If the desire is to get large game, and no fears arc har- bored about the severities of a few weeks "roughing it, " let a party be formed and take a trip into the mountains about the head waters of Austin Creek and the Gualala. But. if a venture is made off here. the heart must be nerved to the possibility of a tussle with a bear, or a jaguar. All through this section of country, deer, brown or cinnamon bear abound. grizzleys are frequently found, the jaguar, or California lion. the will cat. and other animals are frequently met with. If the ambition does not lead to so venturesome a jour- ney, the hills nearer the valleys may be selected. Here small game with an occasional deer abound. while the streams are filled with. trout.
THE WITCHES' CAULDRON.
A journey up the coast North of Russian River is one of the finest that can be had for those who enjoy coast scenery, spiced with a suf- ficient amount of roughness to prevent monotony. Along the coast at various places sea lions congregate in large numbers and form an interesting feature. A drive from Santa Rosa to Calistoga and the
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Petrified Forests forms a pleasant day's journey, and well repays the fatigues in making it. From Cloverdale the tourist may take the good road across the mountains to Lakeport, well assured that if he enjoys fine scenery, that here he can have it in the highest degrec. One view that is obtained some twelve miles from Cloverdale of the Lake region is grand as heart could desire. After toiling up a steep mountain, the traveler sees laid out before him the beautiful Clear Lake, surrounded by its grand amphitheater of mountains extending away into the purple distance, tall, rugged, and heaped together in wildest confusion. From Cloverdale to Ukiah, or Anderson Valley. the road passes over a mountainous country. On the way quite a number of fine mineral springs occur. One noted spring supplies a large quantity of soda water, said to rival the famed Napa soda.
SOURCES OF WEALTH.
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CHAPTER IN.
SOURCES OF WEALTH.
The resources of Sonoma are varied, and are capable of being developed to an indefinite extent. Agriculture is here chief, and of all its branches wheat raising is principal. Nearly all the land in the county, except some of the gravelly hill land, is admirably adapted to wheat raising. Here, as in Napa county, a succession of wheat crops have been reaped off of the sume land until the soil has become impoverished. Russian River. Santa Rosa and Petaluma are the principal wheat producing sections. Sonoma Valley, Big Valley and the hilly country along the Coast are also excellent sections for wheat. Barley is also extensively grown. In the Coast country oats are more generally grown than in any other portion of the county.
The country about Bodega, Bloomfield, and down to Petaluma. is the renowned potato district. The potatoes grown in this section
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were formerly by far the best that could be had in the market, and the crop was the most remunerative to the growers. But many severe losses were sustained by reason of such quantities being raised that a market could not be had ; and a continual cropping for so many years has to some extent exhausted the soil, and the quality of he potato has slightly deteriorated. But, when the farmers, learning the benfits of rotation of crops, began to sow the cereals on their potato land, they found the result a great success.
As a fruit producing county, Sonoma has few equals. The apple, pear, plum, and in fact all kinds of fruits, grow finely and produce abundantly in all parts of the county, save in the immediate vicinity of the ocean. In the hills, where frosts are rare, the orange and other semi-tropical fruits thrive well. Some years ago, the writer experimented in growing some of the wild fruits common in the Eastern States. On the hills West of Santa Rosa Valley the persim- mon was found to grow luxuriantly, but the fruit lacked the flavor common to it in the Mississippi Valley. The papaw was also grown, but never produced.
All the remarks made in regard to the adaptability of the soil and climate of Napa for various kinds of production, are equally applica- ble to Sonoma. Hops, flax, etc., have been grown here, and are no longer experiments. During the war between the States, while prices were high, an attempt was made to introduce the culture of tobacco into this county, and much interest was taken in its cultiva- tion. But the curing of it was not a success, owing probably wholly to the difference in the soil and climate between this country and the States East of the Rocky Mountains. But some of it was cured sufficiently well, that when a foreign brand was put upon it there was a considerable demand for it, and it gave general satisfaction. The culture, however, declined, and very little attention has been paid to it since. Parties about Santa Clara have, it is said, discovered a process for curing the California tobacco, so that even experienced tobacconists cannot distinguish it from the best Havana brands. All the experiments made in Sonoma and Napa counties proved that the tobacco grew admirably, and we may yet expect this section to become an important tobacco producing district.
Berries of various kinds grow luxuriantly and bear well all over the
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SOURCES OF WEALTH.
county. The fogs from the Coast so thoroughly bathe the land that many kinds of fruits and berries can be grown here which cannot in other places on account of the drouth. There are several kinds of wild berries, but they are not, except blackberries, much esteemed. There is a gooseberry common along brooks and in the bottoms in the timbered portion of Sonoma, but it is much smaller than that found in other States. Wild strawberries are abundant in some sec- tions, and are very fine. There is a kind of raspberry, common!, called thimbleberry from its shape when plucked, found along creeks and in moist places. It has a good flavor, and would be much esteemed only that it is so scarce. The huckleberry is found in great abundance in some of the Western parts of the county. The berry is some larger than that found in other States, and is much esteemed. The wild blackberry is the most abundant of any of the native berries, and is best liked ; the vine is a creeper and is rarely found except in timbered sections and along water courses. The berry is of fair size and quite luscious ; the vine resembles that of the dewberry of the Mississippi Valley. All of the cultivated varieties of berries grow and produce well.
Next to the cultivation of the soil the greatest source of wealth is stock-raising. The Northwestern part of the county is principally de- voted to this industry. Large herds and flocks occupy the hills. The herder's only care here is to guard the stock from straying too far off the range, and to attend to the shearing of the flocks in proper season. Most of these stock ranges are so far removed from roads and markets that no attempt is made at dairying. This is about the only section of the county where the wild oat, that formerly covered the whole county, is now found. Along the Northern Coast where the roadsteads offer shipping facilities, considerable attention is given to dairying; but it is not till we get to Russian River that we come into the chief dairying districts of the county. All along down the Coast from this point into Marin are large dairies, where nothing else is attended to but butter and cheese making. Along a great part of this belt of country the land is quite cheap, the hills are well supplied with grasses and springs, and the expense of keeping stock light, so that it is found very remunerative. The natural grasses common to this section, in fact to the whole county, consist of burr clover
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alfilerilla, bunch grass, and wild oats, which are very nutricious, and, excepting the last, quite abundant. Alfalfa is being extensively cul- tivated for feed for stock, and is fast becoming a favorite. The mezquit grass, the cultivation of which was lately commenced by Mr. Hudspeth of Green Valley, bids fair to be an important addition to the grasses found and grown here.
The wool product of Sonoma is very large. The stock has been greatly improved of late years by importing fine blooded sheep, and more attention is continually being given to this industry. The sheep require little attention, markets are convenient, and fair prices have always been obtained for the wool. In the hills remote from mar- kets the wool is carried on pack animals to places where transporta- tion can be had.
Among the chief sources of wealth are the forests of redwood, fir, and other timber. The redwood forests cover a very large portion of Western Sonoma, extending in an almost unbroken line from near Green Valley North to Mendocino. Mills have been established at every available point, and immense quantities of lumber have been shipped, and the business still goes on unabated. As the convenient forests become exhausted, roads are built to others, and every road- stead on the Coast is occupied as a shipping point for lumber. The mills at the mouth of Russian River and of the Gualala are supplied with logs from the forests far above by floating the same down the rivers in rafts.
A considerable trade has been carried on for several years past in charcoal from Sebastopol. Large kilns have been burned, the coal obtained from the wood in that section being found to be of excellent quality. A ready market is always found for it.
MINERAL WEALTH.
There are few mines being worked in Sonoma, though there are fine prospects for valuable lodes of ore in several parts of the coun- ty. Fair specimens of auriferous quartz have been found on Mark West Creek and in the hills near Cloverdale, but nothing yet suf- ficient to warrant working. Gold has been found in small quanti- ties near the Geysers. In 1862-3, considerable excitement was cre- ated on account of the discovery of what was thought to be rich sil-
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SOURCES OF WEALTH.
ver bearing ore near Healdsburg. Many claims were located and companies formed for working these mines. Copper was also found associated with the silver, and in many instances it was the chief metal sought. Much work was done, and considerable sums of money expended in prospecting. Many specimens of rich copper ore were found, but no well defined ledge. The excitement contin- ued till in 1864-5, when it waned. The cost of smelting and trans- portation was so great, and the quality of the ore found so low, that operations were most all suspended in 1865. Yet there is little doubt of the existence of rich copper mines here. The outerop- pings and the character of the rock obtained from the shafts and tunnels run into the hills are sufficient guarantee that there are rich lodes of ore somewhere near by. The excitement on account of rich copper discoveries extended to other parts of the country. Fine prospects were reported in the mountains Northwest of Sebastopol. Among the persons who became suddenly rich by this discovery was Mr. O. A. Olmstead. This gentleman owned a saw-mill and a small tan-yard on one of the small creeks tributary to Russian River, but had not been very successful. On the breaking out of the cop- per mania he became greatly interested. He prospected long and faithfully, and though he failed to find copper, succeeded in finding mines that are destined to be of great value. These are paint mines, in which deposits of variously tinted ochres, and other min- cral colors are found. The colors are of superior quality, and after being long and thoroughly tested. these mines are found to yield a paint in many respects better than any other found in market. The deposits appear to be almost inexhaustible. and the quality to increase the more the mines are worked.
Mercury in a pure state has been found about the Geysers, the severe heat having sublimated it from other ores. A few miles from the Geysers, and near the Little Geysers, rich cinnabar prospects have been found, but no work has here been done sufficiently ex- tensive to test the value of the deposits. Fine prospects for cinna- bar have also been found in the mountains between Guilicos Valley and the town of St. Helena. Coal has been found, of fair quality, at several points along Russian River Valley. Near Cloverdale a body of coal has been found some seven feet wide, that is nearest a
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valuable discovery yet made of this mineral. Several tons of coal have been put on the market from this mine, but it is not now worked.
Extensive quarries of a fine stone suitable for building are found extending all along from Petaluma to the redwoods. This stone is soft and easily worked when taken from the quarry, admitting of a good polish, but it becomes quite hard after being subjected to the air. It has been used considerably in building, and as it is found in exhaustless quantities and convenient to market, it only awaits a test of the pressure it will bear, for this rock to become of great value. Limestone and gypsum, though existing in various parts of the county, are found most plentifully along the Northern coast.
VINEYARDS.
Next to wheat, the vine engrosses more attention in Sonoma than any other agricultural production. The main locality or center of the grape interests is Sonoma Valley. The soil, especially along the foot-hills, seem peculiarly adapted to the grape, and has a de- cided resemblance to some of the famed wine districts on the Rhine. It was in this valley that the vine was first planted; and here the first important measures were taken to make of the grape and wine in- terests an important branch of industry.
To the old Fathers of the Missions in California must the credit or blame be given of in fact inaugurating this business in the State. They planted the vines about the Missions, and in a crude way made wine. The grape planted by them was our common Mis- sion variety. This grape is peculiar to California, and is thought to be a seedling from seed sent out from Spain. The Fathers made their wines and added spirits to the same to keep them sweet. This gave rise to the sweet liquor called Angelica wine. But the pro- duct of the vine must have been very small at this early day, as none of the Missions had but a small number of acres planted. The early settlers from the United States in the few vines they planted, followed the example of the Fathers, both in regard to the kind and number of grapes planted, and in the location. At this carly day it was thought impossible to raise any kind of vegetation without irri- gation. It was only where the conveniences of water could be had
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that vines were set. It was also thought essential to select for grapes a rich alluvial soil. The first person who doubted the correctness of this old maxim about the importance of irrigation, and was willing to test the validity of his doubts, was Colonel Agoston Haraszthy, of Sonoma. In the Winter of 1858 he planted a vineyard of one hun- dred and forty acres, or about 80,000 vines on a high tract of land East of the town of Sonoma, where irrigation was impossible. Many were the predictions of failure of this experiment. It was watched with interest by all favorably disposed to the building up of the wine business in the State. The success of this experiment was the commencement of a new era in vine growing in the State. The rich and heavy bottom lands were abandoned. and the hill side lands selected.
About this time another interesting subject came up-that in regard to securing a finer wine, by means of raising foreign grapes. Our wines were not esteemed by connoisseurs and habitual wine drinker .. The wines were, it was said, either earthy and fiery, or sweet and insipid. This was unquestionably, in a great measure, owing to the quality of the soil and the irrigation of the vine, and also to the in- experience of the persons engaged in the business. Since more experience has been had. and more suitable soil adopted. even the Mission grape is found to make a wine of good quality. Still, the excellency of foreign wines could not be obtained from that made of this grape-so that efforts were put forth to get foreign varieties. It has been proved that the fine bouquet. so common and so much liked by wine drinkers of the best European wines, is a result of the species of the grape. In 1861 the Legislature appointed Colonel Warner, Mr. Schell and Colonel Haraszthy as a committee to inquire into, and report upon, the best means of promoting and improving the growth of the vine in California. Warner reported upon the condition of viniculture as then existing in the State, Mr. Schell upon the viniculture of the South American States, while Colonel Harasz- thy visited Europe and made selections of different varieties of grapes and imported the same. He selected over three hundred differen varieties of grape, and imported near 200,000 rooted vines and cut- tings. These vines were distributed to various parts of the State. and every variety produced and matured its peculiar grape to perfec-
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tion. Some have been found far superior to others, and hence have been very generally selected, but none have been found that in our soil and climate do not maintain their distinctive European qualities; and the modes and conditions of wine-making being equal, produces a wine here identical with what it does in Europe. At the present time most all the new vineyards are being set with the best foreign varieties of vine.
In the Overland Monthly for January, 1872, Arpad Haraszthy thus speaks on some of the advantages of our State as a wine-growing country:
"California has one advantage over any wine-producing country on the globe, and that is the certainty, constancy, and duration of her dry season. The grape is a fruit that needs, above all others, a warm sunshine, without interruption, from the time that the blos- soms set forth their tender flowers, until they gradually develop into its rich, luscious fruit in October. This advantage has always ex- isted here. as far back as our record extends, and no rain or hail ever destroyed the tender fruit. The sure and uninterrupted dura- tion of this dry weather secures a crop without a chance of failure, and ripens the grape to perfection. One of the most serious draw- backs in all other parts of the world is the uncertainty of the seasons and entire variance from preceding ones, thus creating a great differ- ence in the quality of the wine produced in successive vintages. This difference in quality is so great that it is quite common to find the prices vary from one to two hundred per cent. in the same district. The products of the renowed vineyards are known to have fluctuated
even to a greater extent. In Europe, they only reckon to secure in ten years one good crop of fine quality, but small quantity; while seven vintages are reckoned as being of poor quality, small quantity, and total failures. In our State, the variation in quality seldom amounts to five per cent., while the most disastrous years have not lessened the crop below the ordinary yield more than twenty-five per cent. in quantity. This very variation in quantity can be fully known three months previous to the vintage, thus allowing the pro- ducer ample time to secure his casks, and furnishing him positive · knowledge as to the number required. In other countries, even fourteen days before the vintage, there is no certainty of a crop ; a
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SOURCES OF WEALTH.
wind, a rain, or a hail-storm is apt to occur at any moment and de- vastate the entire vintage. All is uncertainty there ; nor has the vintner any possible means of positively ascertaining how many casks he must provide. In abundant years in the old countries the exchange has often been made of so many gallons of wine for an equal number of gallons' capacity of casks. The disadvantages of- being forced to secure such immense quantities of casks in so limi- ted a period are too easily perceived, and we certainly can not ap- preciate our own advantage too much in being very differently sit- uated. Another great benefit derived from the long continuance of the dry weather, is the exemption from weeds in our vineyards after the final plowing. Thus all the nourishment and strength of the soil go wholly to their destination, the vine, and hence the vigor- ous appearance that even the most delicate imported varieties ac- quire even in our poorest soils. They necessarily bear much more. This circumstance will also explain, in a measure, why our cultiva- tion does not cost as much per acre as that in European countries, though our labor is so much higher. The advantage of our dry weather does not end here : it precludes the possibility of continued mildew, and allows the vintner to leave his vines unstaked, the bunches of grapes actually lying, and securely ripening, upon the very ground, without fear of frost or rotting. In this condition, the grapes mature sooner, are sweeter. and. it is believed, possess more flavor.
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"Above and beyond the ability and advantage we have of produc- ing all kinds of grapes to perfection, of making from them wines that are pleasant, inviting to the taste, and which will keep, with but little skill and care, for years, whose limit has not yet been found, we still have a greater advantage over European vintners in the cheapness of our cultivation. Labor, material, and interest are all very high with us ; but, nevertheless, the setting out and cultivation of an acre of vineyard costs less in California than it does in France. For this we are as much indebted to our improved means of culti- vation as to the nature of our climate. All labor, in the majority of the wine districts of Europe, is done by hand. We use the horse and plow, while they use the prong-hoe and spade, and they actually dig and hoe up their entire vineyards, with few exceptions. After
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our Spring cultivation is over, we need not go into our vineyards, and, having no Summer rains, weeding is not necessary, and still their freeness from weeds and clean appearance strike the stranger with surprise. Owing, on the contrary, to the wet season of Europe, the vine-dressers are constantly kept among the vines, trying to give them a clean appearance ; but, in spite of all their efforts, they but * imperfectly succeed, and their vineyards never possess that appear- ance of high and perfect cultivation that is so apparent in our own."
No clearer idea can be given of the extent of the grape culture, than by reference to the statistical tables at the end of this volume. What the future of this great and rising interest shall be is yet a mat- ter of speculation, but the present prospects are that it will be very important. New vineyards are continually being planted, extensive cellars erected and the confidence of those engaged in the business in its future value increasing.
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HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL.
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· CHAPTER IV.
HISTORICAL AND BIOGRAPHICAL.
It is beyond the possible limits of this volume to give a biographi- cal sketch of even a tithe of the pioneers and citizens of worth of Sonoma. We will, however, arrange a few niches for some, not because they are more deserving the honor than others, but because the necessary notes are more conveniently obtained.
CYRUS ALEXANDER.
A correspondent to the Healdsburg Flag gives the following notes of one of the oldest and most respected pioneers of Sonoma. It is quite lengthy, but owing to Mr. Alexander's being so long and so intimately identified with the history and progress of that part of Sonoma, we reproduce it entire.
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