USA > California > Napa County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 20
USA > California > Lake County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 20
USA > California > Sonoma County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 20
USA > California > Mendocino County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 20
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246
LAKE COUNTY.
The roads in Lake county are all good. The toll roads connect- ing at Calistoga and running to Lower Lake, and through Cobb> Valley to Kelseyville ; also the one connecting Lakeport with Clo- verdale, are fine structures, built at great expense. There are good roads constructed to all of the watering places, and a fine toll road is now projected from Bartlett Springs to Colusa. From Lower Lake a road passes down to Berryessa Valley, and from the upper end of the valley another one passes through the mountain by way of the Blue Lakes to Ukiah.
MORAL AND SOCIAL STATUS.
The moral status of Lake is of such character that the jail is sel- dom used. The County Court criminal calendar will not average over one indictment annually. The religious societies are working hard and continually, especially so at Lakeport and Kelseyville. At Lakeport the churches of the Methodists and Catholics are good substantial frame buildings, neat on the exterior, roomy and com- fortable within. The Baptist church is rather small, but otherwise a very suitable building. This edifice is to be torn away this Sum- mer and either enlarged or rebuilt entirely.
At Kelseyville are two churches, Methodist and Catholic, both ornaments to the town, while that energetic young place will this Summer try to erect a brick building for the Presbyterian denomina- tion. At Lower Lake, at Upper Lake and throughout the county, the public school buildings are used for Divine worship and for Sabbath schools.
Of the benevolent societies, the Masons and I. O. O. F. have each a Lodge building at Lower Lake, the former also a building in Lakeport, which latter is used by both Odd Fellow and Good Tem- plar societies also; the latter have an organization also at Kelseyville. All of these societies are in a flourishing condition.
The educational facilities of the county are mostly confined to the public schools. There are quite a number of schools in the county. all well attended, and taught by able teachers.
The population of Lake county has, since its first settlement. been steadily increasing, and now numbers about seven thousand. The fertile valleys offer special advantages to the farmer. The hills,
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247
FINANCIAL CONDITION.
covered with good grass, are well adapted to stock-raising ; moun- tains, covered with pine and fir forests, furnish lumbermen with em ployment; dairying proves a remunerative business; mining one 0 the greatest sources of wealth; and, above all, the climate is both! healthful and pleasant. The seasons are regular, and total failure :. in agricultural pursuits unknown.
FINANCIAL CONDITION.
The financial condition is sound, notwithstanding the many im- pediments and the trouble through which it has passed. It is calcu- lated that the final settlement of the Tax Collector for 1872 will pay all warrants drawn on the General Fund to the first of October, 1872.
The following are the tax levies since 1867 :
1868-County, $2 75 per $100. State-$1 00 per $100.
1 869, 2 53 .
66 . .97 1 870, .. . .
1 872, .. 3 03
.. .. 1871, 2 73 1 09 . .
.97 .86 .50 66
In 1871, expenses incident to building and furnishing public buildings, and other internal permanent improvements, must explain the heavy county levy.
The Assessor's roll for 1872 shows the following facts:
Number of acres reduced to possession .150,614
Valued at . $871,708 Improvements on same, valued at . City and town lots, 246,911
31,270
Improvements thereon, . . 67,093
Other improvements, 4,360
Personal property 580,484
Total valuation of property of Lake county $1, 801, 826
From which the average value of land reduced to possession is five and seventy-eight one hundreth dollars per acre.
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SONOMA COUNTY.
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251
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
CHAPTER I.
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
Sonoma is one of the most important and interesting counties in the State. Lake and Mendocino lie on the North ; Lake and Napa on the East ; Marin on the South and Southwest, and the Pacific on the West. It is about fifty miles in length by an average of twenty- five in breadth. By different branches of the main Coast Range, Sonoma is divided topographically into five sections. The valleys of Sonoma, Santa Rosa, Petaluma, and Russian River and the coast country. Considerable streams flow through all these valleys. So -. nomaand Petaluma creeks flow in a southeasterly direction, and empty into San Pablo Bay. They are navigable nearly as far as tide water extends for small crafts. In the former vessels go up to within a distance of about three miles from the town of Sonoma ; in the lat- ter to the city of Petaluma. These creeks flow through rich agri- cultural lands, and are of great importance in shipping. Russian River, after entering the county at the Northern extremity above Cloverdale, flows in a Southerly direction till it passes the town of Healdsburg. Here it begins to change to the Southwest, and after passing a few miles changes to almost due West, passes through a
252
SONOMA COUNTY.
gap in the Coast Mountains and empties into the ocean. The val- ley of this river varies considerable at different places in regard to width, but everywhere the soil is as rich as can be found anywhere.
Russian River, though a large stream, is not navigable. In the Summer season the water gets very low in it, and the bars and shoals prevent the passage of anything more than a light skiff or canoe, and frequently one of these only at considerable labor. During the Win- ter, when it is swollen by the rains, it looks as though it would float the Great Eastern. In the Spring, after the force of the waters from freshets is spent, a sand-bar is thrown up by the waves of the ocean across the mouth of the river. This causes the water to rise above the bar, and this back-water extends many miles up the main chan- nel. Santa Rosa Creek rises in the Western slope of the Mayacamas Mountains, flows in a Westerly course through the Guilicos Valley, through a part of Santa Rosa Valley, and empties into the Mark West Creek, This latter creek rises in the same mountains, but farther to the North. It flows through a rich agricultural county and empties into Russian River.
The Northern part of the county is mountainous. Here the highest mountains in the whole section of country lie. This is the main dividing ridge between Sonoma and Lake and Napa. Sulphur Peak, near the Geysers, is the highest mountain, being 3, 741 feet high. In this range is the volcanic region known as the Geysers. [to be elsewhere noted ].
North of Cloverdale the mountains are very high and precipitous. Russian River passes a great part of the distance from Ukiah Valley in Mendocino to the valley around Cloverdale, through a deep gorge in the hills. Between Russian River, Mendocino county, and the Coast, is a series of bold, rocky mountains and deep gorges. Along the Coast, North of the mouth of Russian River, the country is much broken, in some places the mountains projecting into the ocean, and in others beautiful coves being formed. In this section there is very little land that is of any value save for pasturage. In the Coves along the Coast small farms are found, and vegetation grows well, but production is mostly confined to domestic necessities.
South of the mouth of Russian River extending to the Marin line on the South, and the valleys of Santa Rosa and Petaluma on the
253
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
East, the Coast country is composed mostly of a series . of rolling hills, with small intervening valleys, among which may be mentioned Big Valley, in which the town of Bloomfield is situated, Green Val- ley, and other minor ones. Towards the Southern boundary many estuaries from the ocean put far out into the land. These are the homes of great numbers of water fowls, but are too small to be of - service for navigation. Russian River, Santa Rosa and Petaluma Valleys are all closely connected, very little elevation existing between them. They extend in a South-southeasterly direction, and many form the idea that the river formerly flowed down the main depres- sion, till by some convulsion of Nature the chain of mountains to the West was broken, and the course of the stream changed. Be- tween the town of Bloomfield and Petaluma a marked depression exists in the chain of hills extending down into Marin. Petaluma and Sonoma Valleys are separated by a high range of hills. Between Sonoma and Santa Rosa the hills are much broken. The Guilicos, Rincon, Bennett, and some smaller valleys occur in this section, all of them of fine soil and beautifully located.
In the Northern portion of the county the mountains and hills are covered with pine, spruce, and various other species of conifers ; also madronas, oaks, etc. In the section of country about the Gey- sers and across into Northern Napa and Lake counties, is found the California nutmeg. This is a beautiful tree, but the fruit, which bears considerable resemblance to the nutmeg of commerce, is not esteemed of value. The hills and mountains to the Northwest are heavily timbered with redwood, spruce, and other kinds of timber. The live oak here grows to a large size. The hills not densely cov- ered with timber afford fine pasturage for large herds and flocks. Here the native wild oats are still to be found growing rank and vig- orous over the hills. The hills South of the mouth of Russian Riv- er, except a small belt of heavy timbered country, are rich, fertile land, capable of being cultivated to the summits. This is one of the finest sections for dairies in the whole county. The country ly- ing between the foot-hills West of Santa Rosa Valley and the town of Santa Rosa, is covered with a growth of low scrubby oak, and the soil is in many parts quite gravelly, in others rich and fertile. A low swale or slough, known as the Laguna, extends along the
254
SONOMA COUNTY.
Western side of Santa Rosa Valley and empties into Mark West Creek. During severe Winters this Laguna spreads out and. over- flows a large portion of the surrounding country.
Another section of gravelly soil lies between the town of Wind- sor and Healdsburg, known in the neighborhood as Poor Man's Flat. Although it is not well adapted to the cereals it could be made valuable for many other kinds of productions.
Bodega Bay is a small inlet in the Southwestern part of the county, and is a shipping point for the productions of the surrounding country. Tomales Bay, in Marin county, lies only a short distance South of Bodega Bay, and is formed between the same headlands, so that both Bays are reached through the same entrance. The harbor inside the heads of this Bay is poor. Water sufficiently deep for schooners is found near the shore, and it is well protected against any but a Southerly wind. The headland projecting down on the Westerly , side of this harbor was selected by the Russians in 1812 for a settle- ment. They maintained the settlement here till 1841.
Knight's Valley, named after the first permanent settler in it, Mr. Thomas Knight, is situated Southwest of St. Helena Mountain, and the greater part of it is fine farming land.
Green Valley lies West of Santa Rosa Valley, and is drained by a small creek, named from the valley, which empties into the Laguna. This valley is one of the finest fruit growing sections of the county, and the soil is fine. The apples, plums, pears, and such fruits grown here, are not excelled anywhere ; yet, the peaches, though of large and fine growth, have not the delicate flavor which those grown in parts farther removed from the coast fogs and winds have.
The greater part of Sonoma county enjoys a most even and agree- able climate. The Western portion, or coast country, is subject to the strong coast winds, but the interior of the county is sheltered by the hills so that it has a mild and pleasant climate. The whole Western portion of the county, during the Summer and Fall, is much visited by dense fogs, and those fogs, in a modified degree, extend over the whole county. By their influence in moistening the soil, a failure of crops on account of a dry season is unknown. The climate on the hill lands, both East and West of the main valley of the county,
255
GENERAL DESCRIPTION.
is comparatively free from frosts. Tender flowers have been left exposed to the weather during a whole Winter. and received no injury.
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256
SONOMA COUNTY.
CHAPTER H.
TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
The town of Sonoma is the oldest one North of the Bay of San Francisco. The name Sonoma is of Indian origin, and significs the Valley of the Moon. It was given to the valley of Sonoma on account of the great natural beauties of the place and for its shape as seen by moonlight. The name is peculiarly felicitous. This town is situated a short distance South of the base of the mountains. and about three miles from the place of shipment, the Embarcadero.
It is not our intention to enter into a history of this county, want of space prohibiting, but a few notes historical may not be inappro- priate. This was established as a Mission as far back as 1820. It was the chief pueblo of the native California population residing North of San Francisco up to the time of the settlement of the country by the Americans in 1846. Gen. M. G. Vallejo, acting un- der orders from the Mexican Government, in 1835 proceeded North of San Francisco Bay for the purpose of selecting a site for a town or pueblo, and locating said pueblo near the base of mountains or hills on which fortifications might be erected. On account of the beauty of the valley, the pleasant climate and fertile soil, Vallejo se- lected the present site of Sonoma. The establishment of the North-
TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES. 257
ern Military Department was mainly caused by a desire to check the Russians and prevent them from encroaching farther South on the Mexican domain. The houses erected were built of adobe, around a plaza, after the old Spanish style. Many of these houses were abandoned by their owners, who had obtained grants from the Mexi- can Government, and retired on to the same, and furnished the main shelter for the immigrants of 1846. After the country was taken possession of by the United States forces, Sonoma was occu- pied for some time as a military post. Gen. Vallejo's palatial resi- dence occupied the principal portion of the North side of the Plaza. The buildings were in the usual Mexican style, excepting on a large scale, the front, or main building was two stories high with a tower of four stories in the center of the building, the West wing of the front was not complete ; in fact, the General had employed mechanics for years in finishing up the interior of the building long after the change of' government. His brother, Don Salvador, had also erected a very large and commodious building on the West side of the Plaza, which has been built upon and occupied at times for various purposes, such as hotel, Masonic Hall, and at this time used for a wine cellar. Jacob P. Leese, the brother-in-law of General Vallejo, erected and occupied a large adobe building at the South- west corner, which still stands in good repair and is noted for being the headquarters of General Persifer F. Smith; General, or at that time Colonel Joc Hooker, Capt. Gibbs, Capt. Stone, Major Leon- ard, Paymaster, Major Phil. Kearney, Lieut. Derby alias Squi- bob, or John Phenix, George W. Stoneman, Capt. Stone, after- wards General, of Ball's Bluff notoriety, Lieut. Davidson William- son, and a host of United States officers. Many are still living and will long remember the happy hours they enjoyed while stationed at Sonoma Barracks. Many of these officers purchased lands and in- tended to make themselves beautiful homes for life. Among those who purchased land was General Persifer F. Smith. He selected 1000 acres on the West side of the valley at the foot-hills, which afterwards became the farm of Capt. Granville P. Swift, who erected on it the fine mansion now occupied by Col. Rogers. This build- ing is of stone and cost some $60,000. Col. Hooker purchased a mile of land of Ernest Bufers, and improved it by substantial enclo-
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258
SONOMA COUNTY.
sures and remained on it for some years, tilling the soil and labor- ing with his own hands, but being a better soldier than farmer, he did not succeed as well with the plow-share as he did in after years with the sword.
Sonoma was a favorite spot with the officers of the army. A great many of them besides those here mentioned, purchased lots or tracts of land and commenced improvements. But most had to abandon their homes to obey the call from the War Department.
The first American officer who raised the Stars and Stripes was Lieutenant Revere, from the sloop-of-war Portsmouth. This vessel, commanded by Captain Montgomery, entered the harbor of Verba Buena early in 1846. Lieutenant Revere was dispatched to take possession of Sonoma, and arriving on the spot found the Bear Flag waving and the town in the possession of the Independent party. The oppressions of the Mexican authorities upon the citizens of the United States settled and traveling in California, had become ex- ceedingly onerous, and to remedy their grievances a company of these citizens had united at Sonoma, and on the 15th of June, 1846, declared the country independent and hoisted the celebrated Bear Flag. This flag consisted of two stripes, one blue, the other white, with the picture of a bear on the upper portion. Several members of this party are still living, and have been mentioned elsewhere in this volume. Nine cannon and about two hundred and fifty stand of small arms fell into the hands of the insurgents. On the fourth of the following July, Fremont assembled all the forces at Sonoma, formally declared the independence of the country and was elected Governor. William B. Ide had been elected, commander of the place by the Independent party on the hoisting of the Bear Flag. But when Lieutenant Revere arrived he pulled down this flag and hoisted the Stars and Stripes. He occupied the old Mexican bar- racks at the Northeast of the Plaza. After the country passed into the hands of the United States one Company under the command of Captain Bracket, of the well known Stevenson's Regiment of New York Volunteers, was stationed here.
W. B. Ide, while in command at Sonoma, appointed one John H. Nash, Alcalde. Nash proclaimed himself Chief Justice, and so .exceeded his authority that after the establishment of the American
259
TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
rule Gen. Riley had him arrested. Gov. L. W. Boggs, then a mer- chant in Sonoma, was appointed Justice or Alcalde. As an evi- dence of the importance of the office, it is only necessary to state that the limits of the District were Sutter's Fort on the East, the Oregon line on the North, the Pacific on the West, and the Bay on the South. Sonoma was the principal place of business and traffic on the North side of the Bay. The Rancheros came here to buy their goods. Governor Boggs, and one or two smaller dealers sup- plied the country around with goods, groceries, etc., taking in ex- change hides, the circulating currency of the times. They kept small sloops or schooners plying between Sonoma and Yerba Buena, bought and sold many thousands of dollars worth of goods. Cargoes of flour from Chili were bought and disposed of by these country stores, also Chinese silks and many other goods. principally calicoes and domestics. It was not uncommon for a ranchero to kill a thou- sand head of cattle to get the hydes to pay a bill of as many dol- lars.
Sonoma soon became settled up by an American population, and Governor Boggs found it necessary to survey out the Pueblo lands in order to give the people who were settling all over the valley an opportunity to acquire titles to their land. Accordingly, he em- ployed Jasper O'Farrel to run off a certain quantity of small lots, carrying out the original plan as started by General Vallejo ; and also to survey outside of these small blocks, thirty and forty acres of land in squares, in conformity to the original design and granted the same to those who had settled on the land first and built homes at the rate of $5 per acre, and all others were sold to the highest bid- der, and the proceeds placed to the credit of the Municipal Fund.
After the admission of California as a State, Sonoma continued to be for several years the important town in the county. It was the county seat, till in 1855 the people selected Santa Rosa. Since losing her importance as the county town she has not improved. While every other town in the county has been entirely changed by the hand of progress, Sonoma has remained almost stationary. We look at it to-day, and a great part of it is the same old Mexican town it was in 1846. But this stagnation only belongs to the town, the valley is quite different. It is now probably one of the finest vineyard sections in the State.
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SONOMA COUNTY.
Half a mile West of town is the present extensive and magnificent residence of Gen. M. G. Vallejo. This is property that has been highly improved, and is now one of the finest homesteads any- where to be found. A large and copious spring near the base of the hills supplies an artificial pond, in which many varieties of fish are reared, and gives ample facilities for irrigating the pleasure grounds. Here nearly every variety of grape may be found, large fig trees nearly two feet in diameter throw their cooling shade over the grounds, and ornamental shrubbery adorns the surroundings. Here the orange, olive, lemon, pomegranate and other semi-tropical fruits grow and bear well, and form a beautiful contrast with the apple, quince, pear and other fruits. The walk or drive leading from the road to the residence was constructed at an expense of over $5,000. The residence is truly palatial, and supplied with fine paintings, etc., in fact, everything that go to make home attractive and comfortable.
DONAHOE.
The little town of Donahoe is purely an offspring of the railroad, and dates its existence only since Mr. Peter Donahoe took possession of the North Pacific Railroad. It is situated about a mile below the old landing known as Lakeville, on an arm of San Pablo Bay, where all the conveniences of water transportation may be had. It is con- nected by stage lines with Sonoma and Napa, and is surrounded by a rich agricultural district. The railroad passes up a country almost perfectly leves for several miles. Very little heavy grading is found anywhere on the road:
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PETALUMA.
The largest town in Sonoma county, and, except Sonoma, the oldest, is Petaluma. It is situated on a creek of the same name at the head of navigation, and is an important shipping point for the county. The land to the East and Southeast is level, and of rich adobe soil. Much of that towards the Southwest is commonly called tule land, and overflows from the rise and fall of the tides. Across the valley to the East rise the high hills separating Sonoma from Petaluma Valleys. To the West of the town lie hills extending
261
TERING PLACES.
Facts about Santa Rosa.
'o those who have only heard of Santa Rosa as county town of Sonoma county, and as being of the most beautiful and thriving places in the e, the following facts and figures, condensed
1 of these hills are capable of being To the North opens the main 1 the Santa Rosa Democrat, may be interesting: luma with Tomales, Bloomfield,
le town of Santa Rosa is built on the fertile val- or plain of the same name, and on the old Santa ' " grant," midway between Petaluma and the ishing town of Healdsburg. on Russian river.
st, while the railroad passes through The population is estimated to be le enterprise of Berthold Hoen is the site of theorporated in 1858. It has always :, and much of its prosperity, due. The site ixed by him. and by him surveved and mapped he people alive to every movement here have been several educational 3 spring of 1854. In the year 1855 it was declared ounty seat, Mr. Hoen tendering the county a ing gratuitously, to be used for county purposes. me still survive and are doing well. e year following, a court-house was built, which the present time being remodeled. The entire public schools of Petaluma have est in the county. Most competent
of the county buildings will be about $35,000, even in their present unfinished state, present pearance in structure and design creditable een employed, and the advancement 3 rich county of Sonoma. When completed, vill, in elegance and design, be surpassed for regard to this in its proper place. Ice and design by but few such buildings in ate. The private residences, are mostly one- cottage buildings, and for neatness and com-
ill vie with those of any other country village TA ROS.A. re knowledge of. The soil of the valley is & lluvium of unsurpassed fertility. .A small L is subject to overflow, and is at present ed as almost useless for anything else than but by draining will prove to be, after a year of culture, our richest soil. Grass, corn-all
of Sonoma, is most pleasantly and of the same name. and near the. istant from Sonoma, Northwesterly, cereals-are grown in the valley lands, and veen Petaluma and Healdsburg, and
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