USA > California > Napa County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 19
USA > California > Lake County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 19
USA > California > Sonoma County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 19
USA > California > Mendocino County > Historical and descriptive sketch book of Napa, Sonoma, Lake, and Mendocino : comprising sketches of their topography, productions, history, scenery, and peculiar attractions > Part 19
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On account of the uncertainty of the "county town," no public buildings had been erected, and the consequence was that the Bap- tist Church was now used as a Court-room. New public buildings were at once, however, put in process of erection, and in the Fall of 1871 a neat, roomy, substantial brick Court House and Jail were completed. This building contains offices for all the county officials, besides a good Court-room, well furnished. The public square, upon which the Court House and County Jail stand, is now being enclosed and ornamented, and will compare favorably with the im- provements of many older and wealthier counties.
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HISTORICAL SKETCH.
During 1864 the "Bensley Water Company," sometimes called "'Clear Lake Water Works," whose ostensible aim was, and is, to convey water from Clear Lake to the city of San Francisco, com- menced building a dam across Cache Creek, near the lake. This dam, constructed for the purpose of obtaining motive power for their extensive mills, being on the only outlet to the Lake, caused the waters thereof to rise about thirteen feet above the medium hight. Thousands of acres of naturally dry land, and of great fertility, was thereby overflowed and rendered worthless to the owners. Many suits for damages were instituted against "the Company, " but some were compromised, some dropped, and none prosecuted to judg- ment. On the 14th of October. 1868, some three hundred armed men arrived at the works of the Company, tore out the dam, removed the machinery from the mills, and-the buildings were that night destroyed by fire. The "Bensley Water Company" instituted suit against the county of Lake to recover $200,000. After many delays the suit was set for the May (1873) term of the District Court in Yolo county.
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LAKE COUNTY.
CHAPTER III.
SOURCES OF WEALTH.
Lake has several important. sources of wealth. In the Southwest portion are several quicksilver mines that prospect well, and will doubtless prove of great importance. Several mines have at differ- ent times been located in the county, and some of them are now being developed. One of the most important of these mines is the American, situated on Pine Mountain about seven miles Southwest of Middletown. It was discovered by John McFarland, of St. Helena, but was not worked till in 1871. when it fell into the hands of Messrs. Lawley, Lamdin, Perchbaker, and others. The St. Louis Mine is situated a short distance Northeast of the American. As early as 1861, considerable interest was manifested in quicksilver mining in this county. Companies were formed and much work done. The "Cincinnati," Dead Broke," "Pittsburg," "Pioneer," and " Denver " were some of the claims located about this time, all lying near Pine Mountain. On the road from Lower Lake to Sui-
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SOURCES OF WEALTH.
sun, about eighteen miles from the former place, is situated the " Lake Mine," and a few miles further down the "Excelsior Mine." These mines were worked as early as 1863. Although the mines in the county have been known and some of them worked so many years, yet no adequate works have been erected, so as to develop any of them. Judging from the prospects so far as made, it is thought that Lake is destined to be one of the foremost quick- silver producing counties in the State. Silver and gold bearing quartz have been found in several parts of the county, but nothing of value has yet been discovered.
'The only minerals that so far have been obtained in sufficient quantities to become remunerative are borax and sulphur. The Cal- ifornia Borax Company during the time they had their works in op- eration shipped large quantities of borax. The demand for the borax is very great, and it is to be hoped the Company will soon re- sume operations. They now have probably $200,000 worth of machinery lying idle, rusting away and becoming worthless. And this not because there is any doubt of the remunerative character of the business, but because of a disagreement among the members of the Company. Dr. Ayres is doing a successful business refining and shipping borax from Little Borax Lake. At the Sulphur Banks ex- tensive works are erected for refining the crude sulphur, and are pro- ducing about fifteen hundred tons of pure sulphur annually.
Although there is a large area of fine arable land in the county, yet the distance from market has prevented much attention being devoted to agriculture. Grain is grown to supply the demand of the inhabitants and to feed to stock, but for no other purpose.
No accurate agricultural reports are accessible, it is probable they have never been regularly made.
The first farming was commenced in 1854. In 1866 the num- ber of acres of land enclosed was 46,963.
In 1866 the number of acres of land under cultivation was .. 4,500
" 1867 "
: : 5,160
" 1868 ** . .
. 6 .(
.:
. . 8,730
"'1870 .. . :
.. 12,COO '. 1872 " . .
. .
. . 13,652
" IS72 .. . .
. .
..
enclosed
. . 90,614
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LAKE COUNTY.
The small grains predominate, and an average yield of thirty bushels per acre is in general received. Indian corn is cultivated largely in the Northwest portion of the county.
Stock raising is the chief source of natural wealth outside of the mines. The hills are devoted to stock, and so much of the val- leys as are not used for the production of grain, etc., to supply do- mestic demands, is used for the same purpose. Around the lake are some of the finest dairies any where to be found. Butter and cheese are produced and shipped in large quantities. The rich land bordering the lake seems especially adapted to grazing. Clear Lake cheese is recognized in the markets as the finest that can be found.
Viniculture and fruit growing, on account of high rates of trans- portation, has been confined to domestic demands. The soil and climate are proven, however, especially adapted to these branches of farming, and now that railroad connection is drawing the county nearer the great marts of the State, vineyards and fruit orchards be- gin to clothe the hill sides that heretofore have produced naught but a poor quality of grass. The quality of the grapes and fruits are ex- tolled by all acquainted with them. The vineyards of Lake are ex- pected to render fertile many hills that have long "lain beneath the curse of God, and naught produced."
237
TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
VIEW OF HARBIN SPRINGS.
CHAPTER IN.
TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
The mountains of Lake county are prolific of mineral springs. At several of these, hotels and cottages have been erected for the ac- commodation of visitors. The most prominent of these are, Bart- lett's, Adam's, Caldwell's, and Sigler's. It is claimed that ten thou- sand persons visited these different resorts last Summer, (1872), and hat as many as five hundred remained during the Winter. Wor .- derful cures have been effected, and as the report of a county of- ficial to a State officer remarks, "These springs are death on rheu- matism." The proprietors of these different resorts claim to have effected cures at their springs for all diseases except those of a pul- monary nature. Their fame has gone out far and wide. Each sea- son increases the number that come, and those who go away rejoic- ing. Good roads to all these resorts connect with the railroads at Calistoga and at Cloverdale.
238
LAKE COUNTY.
LAKEPORT.
Lakeport, the county seat of Lake county, is situated on the Western shore of Clear Lake, and in Big Valley. Distant from Calistoga, forty miles; from Lower Lake, twenty-five miles; from Cloverdale and Ukiah, twenty-five miles each. Its first name was Forbestown, from the fact that Mr. Forbes, who still resides here, had bought the tract of land on which the town was built, of Mr. Wm. S. Cook, who had purchased it of the United States in 1858. Mr. Forbes built a dwelling house and a blacksmith and wagon shop. As early as 1855, there was a store established about one-fourth of a mile below the present town, by Mr. Smith, now a merchant of Kelsey- ville, eight miles below. The county buildings add much to the place. Besides the splendid Court House, on a beautiful knoll is situated a fine Public School House, which is a credit to the dis- trict. The upper story is used by the Odd Fellows and Good Tem- plars as a Lodge Room. The population is about three hundred. There are six stores, two saloons, two hotels, one livery stable, two blacksmith and wagon shops, one gun shop, one jeweller, three churches, Lodges of the Masonic, Odd Fellow and Good Templar societies, and one public school building. During the past year there were erected in Lakeport eight dwelling houses, two stores and one saloon building, and one grist mill. The business of the town is steadily increasing, and real estate continually advancing in price. The Lakeport mills have now in operation one of the finest and most complete establishments North of San Francisco. This establish- ment, with the planing and moulding machines attached, is a well supplied long-felt want. A daily mail is in connection with Clover- dale, also express over same line, and tri-weekly with Calistoga and Ukiah.
LOWER LAKE.
Lower Lake is a beautiful village near five miles from Clear Lake at its Southern extremity. The population is about two hundred. There are liere four stores, two saloons, one hotel, two livery stables, blacksmith and other mechanical shops. The office of the Superin- tendent of the Bensley Water Company was long situated here, and that officer still remains, but except in attending to the landed inter-
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TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
ests of the Company, his occupation, like that of Othello's, seems gone. Near this place still stands the first house built in Lake coun- ty, giving Lower Lake clear title to the claim of the first town in the county. The Masons, Odd Fellows, and Good Templars have each an organization. A substantial Public School building serves also as a church.
Lower Lake is thirty miles from Calistoga, and is connected with it by a tri-weekly stage line, which connects here with stages for Lakeport. Adams and Sigler Springs, Cobb Valley, and Bartlett Springs.
MIDDLETOWN.
This is a small town situated in Loconoma Valley, sixteen miles from Calistoga and about the same from Lower Lake. It gets its importance from the travel passing through to the various springs. Besides the usual number of stores, shops, etc., there is a neat school house, a lodge of Odd Fellows, and one of Good Templars.
GUENOC.
This is a small town on the main road to Lower Lake. It is sit- . uated in Coyote Valley, and is surrounded by a fine grazing and ag- ricultural country.
BARTLETT SPRINGS.
The repute of this place has become, during the last few years. wonderful. Such almost miraculous cures have been effected that the halt and lame, the wearied clerk from the counting-room and the mere pleasure and sight-seeker, have flocked here by the thousands. They are situated east of Clear Lake, about twenty-five miles from Lower Lake. They were first discovered by Mr. Bartlett, the present owner, in 1868. He was then a resident of Cobb Valley, and was much afflicted with the rheumatism, so much so that one of his legs had become quite emaciated. In 1870 he went out to these Springs for the purpose of seeking relief in hunting. The water, of which he drank freely, caused him at first to become swollen and to lose the use of his limbs more than before; but this soon wore off and he rapidly recovered from his ailment.
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LAKE COUNTY.
A correspondent of the Napa Reporter who visited these Springs in the Fall of 1872, thus speaks of them :
"A '49 miner would suppose, should he suddenly come in sight of this place from the top of some of the high peaks surrounding it, that some lucky miner had made a rich strike, and that a mining camp had sprung up here. Even after arrival in the camp, it re- minds one forcibly of early days in the mining camps of California. The cabins are built with posts set in the ground three feet apart and sided up with shakes or driven rods, and are from 14 to 16 feet square, most of them having nature for their floors. Of these there are about 40 and can be rented for $2 per week where they have no floors. A few have rough floors laid in them and they rent for $2 50 per week. The livery and feed stables are about the best looking buildings in the camp, and our horses were well cared for on very reasonable terms. There are almost ice cold springs in the camp, one of which furnishes the finest soda water we think we ever drank, and the other is the one which Mr. Bartlett used and which has cured so many persons almost miraculously. The basin, which is cleaned out and walled up, is, we judge, about three feet long, two feet wide and probably two and a quarter feet deep. The water in it is about two feet deep, and although there is a continual run of persons from early morning till late at night carrying the water away in buckets, jugs, demijohns and other vessels, yet the volume of water is never diminished in the least, that we could see. and it certainly is the most pleasant mineral water we ever drank in our lives. Only a partial analysis of the water has been made. It is known to contain sulphur, carbon, magnesia, manganese, potassium and calcium .- There are other springs in the vicinity. About 1} miles Westerly is one called the Soap Spring. It is about twenty-five feet long, twelve feet wide and six feet deep, with a natural wall of boulders on all sides of it, forming a splendid plunge or swimming bath. Its waters are known to contain borax, soda, salt and sulphur. The tempera- ture is very pleasant for bathing. It is tepid. A few feet from it is another fine spring containing iron, soda and salt: temperature 859. Very near to this is a very cold spring of splendid water. One and a quarter miles in a Northerly direction from the Bartlett is a very singular spring known as the Gas Spring. The strong gas issuing
241
TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
from it is the same as met with at the Sulphur Banks. No water flows from it, and the quantity of water never increases or diminishes, but is continually in motion, as if it were boiling. The sound, as of escaping steam, may be heard for a considerable distance from the spring. The water is intensely cold. This spring is noted for the curing of corns."
BEAUTIFUL SCENERY.
The same writer thus speaks of the road from Bartlett Springs to Upper Lake, on the way to Lakeport :
"The country through which we pass is unsurpassably beautiful. The road is in good order and runs for the greater part through finely timbered country composed mostly of tall, straight pine trees, many of them So to 100 feet without knot or limb, and straight as an arrow. Mountain quail may be seen at almost every turn, and the large, handsome, graceful grey squirrel may be seen springing from limb to limb on these tall pines, and occasionally the fleet-footed deer is seen gracefully bounding over the hills. The picture is ever changing along this beautiful road. Here a beautiful, smooth, symmetrical hill, covered with tall stately pines or noble oaks with their wide- spreading branches, affording shade for the herds of cattle and sheep which roam over these hills, making the landscape all the more cheerful. On the other hand we behold bold, precipitous rocky peaks, giving wild romantic beauty. And again, we have presented to our view high cone-shaped hills or peaks covered with immense boulders, and in one or two instances we noticed a hill or peak of this kind on the very top of which was a large boulder surmounted by a beautiful green tree. Taken altogether, the scenery between Bartlett Springs and the upper end of Clear Lake is grand and pic- turesque in the extreme, and well repays the tourist a visit. From the mountains we came down into a very fertile little valley known as Clover Valley, through which we pass into the head of Lake Val- ley, where we find as rich land as can be found in California, with large corn and grain fields, while cheerful looking farm-houses greet us on every hand. Tall, straight oak trees may be seen from 30 to 40 feet without limb or knot. We noticed large farms or ranches
16
242
LAKE COUNTY.
which had been fenced with rails made from this kind of timber, something not very common in California."
HARBIN SPRINGS.
This is fast becoming one of the most pleasant and best patron- ized watering places on the coast. It is located about four miles from Middletown, and is well provided with all the conveniences for making guests comfortable. Not only are there suitable hotel accommodations, but also a plat of ground set apart and always kept clean for the use of those who prefer coming in their own wagons and camping out. The waters of the springs were used by the In- dians long before the settlement of the country by whites, on ac- count of the cures effected. The springs were discovered in 1852 by Messrs. Ritchie and Harbin. The land belonged to the United States at this time, and was entered by them. Some two or three years after the discovery of the springs they built a small house near them which was occupied by Mr. Harbinas a dwelling-house ; hc soon after bought Mr. Ritchie's interest, and in 1860 built a new house with five bath rooms in the lower part immediately over the springs used by the Indians for bathing. The building has since been removed and fitted up as a lodging house. In 1866 Messrs. Hughs & Williams purchased this property from Mr. Harbin for the sum of $3,000. Some years afterwards Mr. Williams bought the interest of Mr. Hughs. Since this time he has built several cosy little cottages and a commodious hotel capable of accommodating about one hundred and thirty persons comfortably. There are quite a number of springs of different temperatures, but most of them highly impregnated with iron, magnesia, and sulphur. The waters are much liked for drinking, and afford delightful baths. The cli- mate about these springs is mild and pleasant. The thermometer rarely ever, even on the warmest days rises above 100°, and gener- ally stands much lower. The evenings are always cool and refresh- ing. Last Summer, (1872), 1000 people visited this retreat.
ADAMS SPRING.
This spring is situated about four miles from Cobb Valley, and connected with it by a good road. There are rude accommodations
243
TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
erected, like those at Bartlett Springs for the use of visitors. The water, on first tasting, has a strong odor and taste of coal oil, thoughi after a little use most persons become quite fond of it. There is only one spring here, but it furnishes a large quantity of water. The spring has been known for a few years only, but has now be- come a favorite resort, especially for those afflicted with the rheuma- tism. An analysis of the water shows that there is a large proportion of the carbonates of magnesia, lime, soda, and iron, also a consid- erable percentage of chloride of sodium and silica, besides traces of salt of potash and nitric acid. It contains a large amount of pure carbonic acid gas. Mr. Adams, the discoverer, sold the property in the Fall of 1872 to two of the Whitton brothers of Yountville, Napa county. These gentlemen have erected additional accommodations and expect a large travel to this place.
SIGLER SPRINGS.
One of the oldest and most well tried of the many Springs in the lake region is Sigler Springs. These are situated about six miles Westerly from Lower Lake. The waters are highly recommended for their medicinal virtues, the surroundings for their beauty, and the climate for its salubrity. Good accommodations are here furnished for tourists.
CALDWELL SPRINGS.
These Springs are situated about eight miles from Lakeport, near the road towards Cloverdale. There are fifty or more of these Springs which burst from the banks of Limestone Creek. An analy- sis shows them to be impregnated with sulphate of magnesia, car- bonate of magnesia, muriate sodium, carbonate manganese, potas- sium, silica and calcium, containing a trace of sulphur, and highly charged with carbonic acid gas. These Springs have been known for several years as a neighborhood resort for invalids afflicted with various chronic diseases, and many remarkable cures have been effected. No improvements or accommodations for the public had been made until they were purchased last Summer by Dr. Caldwell. The baths are very invigorating, the water from some of the springs being warm enough for a pleasant bath, just as it flows from the springs. Visitors
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LAKE COUNTY.
can choose the waters that best suit individual cases, or as their feel- ings may indicate. The situation is a very pretty one, and the hills and mountains surrounding are very romantic and picturesque .- Small game is quite abundant, and occasionally deer may be found in the hills, and the fishing in the neighborhood is fine. These Springs may be reached daily from Cloverdale, Sonoma county, by: stage, or from Kelseyville, Lake county. It may be remarked that an old bath tub at these Springs which has been in use for about ten years, is almost entirely petrified ; the sides and bottom have become beautiful hard stone, having the appearance of quartz.
SODA BAY.
Soda Bay is situated at the base of Uncle Sam Mountain. It con- sists of a considerable area covered by shallow water of the lake, over which bubble up great numbers of springs of the finest soda water.' These Soda Springs are found both on the land and in the waters of the lake, and render this a delightful retreat. The bathing in this Soda Bay is fine and exhilarating. For sublimity and beauty of natural scenery it completely satisfies the beholder that he need look no farther to gratify his taste and imagination to the full. Nature seems here to have done her utmost to produce a scene combining all the elements of grandeur and beauty. A Bungalow cottage, sur- rounded with broad verandas, embowered in the shade of wide- spreading live oaks and rich-colored madronas, with their tropical verdure, rests on a gentle slope at the foot of a lofty mountain. In front is the silver-surfaced lake, with its many peninsulas and island. covered with green foliage. On the opposite shore the smooth brown sandstone mountain cones rise up in fanciful shapes, and be- yond them are lofty mountains covered with an evergreen verdure. Taken as a whole, it is a scene of beauty and enchantment.
COBB VALLEY.
As a pleasant place to enjoy the bracing mountain breeze, cool fresh water, and the best of facilities for hunting and fishing, there are few places of more importance than Cobb Valley. The eleva- tion of this little valley is about 2, 500 feet, and, twenty-eight miles from Calistoga, is surrounded on all sides by tall pine-clad moun-
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TOWNS AND WATERING PLACES.
tains. A hotel and cottages have been erected to accommodate visitors. The heat never is severe and the nights are quite cool. At least the recollections of the writer is to that effect, especially the part about the cold nights. His memory brings up a night several years ago, before there was any hotel in the valley, when he found himself there overtaken by the darkness (and it gets very dark there) with nothing to eat and nothing but a saddle-blanket to keep him warm. He attributes all of his subsequent nervous insensibility to the severe test this night's freezing gave. From this valley it is only about twelve miles over a good mountain trail to the celebrated Gey- sers. We know of no place on the Pacific Coast where a few weeks during the Summer could be more pleasantly spent than in this quiet little nook, or where kinder, more accommodating, or more pleasant people could be found with whom to stop.
IN GENERAL.
Besides the attractions of watering places, Lake county offers the finest inducements to hunters and fishers. Game of all kinds abound in the mountains, and an occasional bear is to be found. The mountain streams are filled with trout and the Lake with various kinds of fish. There have been many "large fish stories " related about the wonderful shoals of fish that swarm up the creeks from the Lake at certain seasons of the year, but none of them that we have heard are larger than the facts will warrant. In the late Win- ter and early Spring these shoals of fish from the lake have been so great that the whole body of the water seemed a living, moving mass of fish ; and the jam among these shoals so great that stock in crossing the creeks have been known to kill large numbers. This is the Indian's harvest season. They congregate on the banks of streams, and by constructing a kind of net or trap catch im- mense numbers of fish and dry them for Summer use. The per- son who visited the sweat house mentioned in the chapter .on In- dianology at the commencement of this volume, speaks of the scents to which his nostrils were regaled, but had he visited one of these rancherias in the fishing season, he would have thought that the odors of the sweat house as compared with those here expe- rienced, were sweet as the ottar of roses.
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