USA > Montana > Yellowstone County > An illustrated history of the Yellowstone Valley : embracing the counties of Park, Sweet Grass, Carbon, Yellowstone, Rosebud, Custer and Dawson, state of Montana > Part 5
USA > Montana > Park County > An illustrated history of the Yellowstone Valley : embracing the counties of Park, Sweet Grass, Carbon, Yellowstone, Rosebud, Custer and Dawson, state of Montana > Part 5
USA > Montana > Dawson County > An illustrated history of the Yellowstone Valley : embracing the counties of Park, Sweet Grass, Carbon, Yellowstone, Rosebud, Custer and Dawson, state of Montana > Part 5
USA > Montana > Rosebud County > An illustrated history of the Yellowstone Valley : embracing the counties of Park, Sweet Grass, Carbon, Yellowstone, Rosebud, Custer and Dawson, state of Montana > Part 5
USA > Montana > Custer County > An illustrated history of the Yellowstone Valley : embracing the counties of Park, Sweet Grass, Carbon, Yellowstone, Rosebud, Custer and Dawson, state of Montana > Part 5
USA > Montana > Sweet Grass County > An illustrated history of the Yellowstone Valley : embracing the counties of Park, Sweet Grass, Carbon, Yellowstone, Rosebud, Custer and Dawson, state of Montana > Part 5
USA > Montana > Carbon County > An illustrated history of the Yellowstone Valley : embracing the counties of Park, Sweet Grass, Carbon, Yellowstone, Rosebud, Custer and Dawson, state of Montana > Part 5
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47 | Part 48 | Part 49 | Part 50 | Part 51 | Part 52 | Part 53 | Part 54 | Part 55 | Part 56 | Part 57 | Part 58 | Part 59 | Part 60 | Part 61 | Part 62 | Part 63 | Part 64 | Part 65 | Part 66 | Part 67 | Part 68 | Part 69 | Part 70 | Part 71 | Part 72 | Part 73 | Part 74 | Part 75 | Part 76 | Part 77 | Part 78 | Part 79 | Part 80 | Part 81 | Part 82 | Part 83 | Part 84 | Part 85 | Part 86 | Part 87 | Part 88 | Part 89 | Part 90 | Part 91 | Part 92 | Part 93 | Part 94 | Part 95 | Part 96 | Part 97 | Part 98 | Part 99 | Part 100 | Part 101 | Part 102
On the morning of the fourth, Captain Lewis and Captain Clark, set out to explore the two streams. Captain Lewis crossed the north fork and explored this river. He pro- ceeded in a northerly direction until the sixth when he decided to return, having convinced himself that this stream pursued a direction too far north for the route to the Pacific. He waited until noon to take a meridian altitude and then returned, arriving at the camp at the confluence of the two rivers on the eighth. "I determined to give it a name," he said, "and in honor of Miss Maria Wood, called it Maria's river."
Captain Clark explored the south branch for a distance of forty-five miles, and returned,
13
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
arriving at camp on the evening of the sixth Here he remained until the arrival of Captain Lewis on the eighth. Captains Lewis and Clark compared their observations and concluded that the south branch must be the stream which leads well into the mountains. They had been apprised by the Indians of the clear water of the river at the falls. This was true of the water of the south branch. It seemed to them that this must be the right course to take, for were it not the Indians would certainly have made mention of a stream of this size flowing from the south.
The conclusions were communicated to the party, who to a man, was of a contrary opin- ion. However, they were willing to abide by the conclusions as arrived at.
It was agreed that one of them (Lewis or Clark) should ascend by land and the other take the river. In the meantime, in order to lessen their burdens as much as possible, they determined to leave one of their periogues and all the baggage not absolutely needed. This they did, securely fastening the periogue on an island near the mouth of the Maria, and se- creting the baggage that could be dispensed with.
On the morning of the eleventh, Lewis, with a party of four men, set out by land. Two days later they heard the sound of a fall of water. As they drew nearer the sound became too tremendous to be anything else than the water pouring over the Great Falls of the Missouri.
Captain Lewis describes the river at this point in a very graphic way as follows: "The river immediately at this cascade is 300 yards wide, and is pressed in by a perpendicular cliff on the left, which rises to about 100 feet and extends up the stream for a mile; on the right the bluff is also perpendicular for 300 yards above the falls. For 90 or 100 yards from the left cliff, the water falls in one smooth even sheet, over a precipice of at least 80 feet. The remaining part of the river precipitates
itself with a more rapid current, but being re- ceived as it falls by the irregular and project- ing rocks below, forms a splendid prospect of perfectly white foam, 200 yards in length and 80 in perpendicular elevation. This spray is dissipated into a thousand shapes, sometimes flying up in columns 15 or 20 feet, which are then oppressed by larger masses of white foam, on all which the sun impresses the brightest colors of the rainbow. As it rises from the fall it beats with fury against a ledge of rock which extends across the river at 150 yards from the precipice. From the perpendicular cliff on the north, to the distance of 120 yards, the rocks rise only a few feet above the water ; when the river is high the stream finds a chan- nel across them 40 yards wide and near the higher parts of the ledge, which then rise about 20 feet and terminate abruptly within 80 or 90 yards of the southern shore. Between them and the perpendicular cliff on the south the whole body of water runs with great swiftness. A few small cedars grow near this ridge of rocks, which serves as a barrier to defend a small plain of about three acres, shaded with cottonwood, at the lower extremity of which is a grove of the same tree, where are several Indians' cabins of sticks; below the point of them the river is divided by a large rock, sev- eral feet above the surface of the water, and ex- tending down the stream for twenty yards. At the distance of 300 yards from the same ridge is a second abutment of solid perpendicular rock about 60 feet high, projecting at right angles from the small plain on the north for 134 yards into the river. After leaving this, the Missouri again spreads itself to its usual distance of 300 yards, though with more than its ordinary rapidity."
Several days were spent in working their way up the succession of falls. The most re- markable of these they called Crooked Falls. While viewing this romantic fall, Captain Lewis heard a loud roar from above them. Crossing over the point, which lay between
14
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
them and the noise of rushing water, they came in sight of one of nature's grandest scenes. Captain Clark described it in the following picturesque language : "The whole of the Mis- souri is stopped by one shelving rock, which, without a single niche, and with an edge as straight and regular as if formed by art, stretches itself from one side of the river to the other for at least a quarter of a mile. Over this the water precipitates itself in an even, uninterrupted sheet, to the perpendicular depth of fifty feet, whence dashing against the rocky bottoni, it rushes rapidly down, leaving behind it a spray of the purest foam across the river."
The journal tells us that "Just below the falls is a little island in the middle of the river, well covered with timber. Here on a cotton- wood tree an eagle had fixed her nest, and seemed the undisputed mistress of the spot, to contest which dominion, neither man nor beast would venture across the gulfs that surround it." The story of the eagle's nest had been related to the party by the Indians at a much earlier date and this helped to impress upon their minds the fact that they could not be mis- taken in the course.
After Captain Lewis departed Captain Clark remained in the camp one day to secrete the articles which could be dispensed with, and on the 12th started up the river. Navigation was slow and difficult, due to the rapidity of the current. On the 13th they reached the spot where Captain Clark had encamped on the fourth. At this place they were met by one of Lewis's men who came with the welcome intel- ligence that Lewis had discovered the falls. By noon of the 16th they had approached within five miles of the falls, having crossed one con- siderable rapids in the morning. Lewis joined them here, having come down from the falls, and they discussed the most feasible method of crossing over the falls. It was decided that Clark make a tour of the country up the river and locate a route by which the baggage could be most easily transported. After the most
feasible route had been determined upon the men were put to work transferring it to where the river was navigable above the falls, a dis- tance of some seventeen miles. They again deposited part of the baggage before beginning the trip around the falls.
Anticipating the need of a light boat that could be easily carried where the stream was not navigable, the explorers brought with them an iron frame from which to construct a boat. Skins of buffalo and elk were stretched over this skeleton, making it the lightest possible. "The boat was completed," says the journal, "except what is in fact the most difficult part, the making her seams secure."
To use the words of the journal, "We had intended to dispatch a canoe with part of our men to the United States early this spring ; but not having yet seen the Snake Indians, or knowing whether to calculate on their friend- ship or enmity, we had decided not to weaken our party which is already scarcely sufficient to repel any hostility. We were afraid, too, that such a measure might dishearten those who remained; as we have never suggested to them, they are all perfectly and enthusiastically .
attached to the enterprise, and willing to encounter any danger to insure its success."
On the fifth the boat was elevated so that a fire could be kindled under it, in order that it might be dried more rapidly. A composition of powdered charcoal with beeswax and buffalo- tallow was used to prevent it from leaking. The journal says: "Besides the want of tar, we have been unlucky in sewing the skins with a needle which had sharp edges instead of a point merely. Although a long thong was used in order to fill the holes, yet it shrinks in drying and leaves them open, so that we fear the boat will leak." A few days later we read : "The boat having now become sufficiently dry, we gave her a coat of the composition, which after a proper interval was repeated, and the next morning she was launched into the water,
15
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
and swam perfectly well. The seats then were fixed and the oars fitted; but after we had loaded her, as well as the canoes, and were on the point of setting out, a violent wind caused the waves to wet the baggage, so that we were forced to unload the boats. The wind con- tinued high until evening, when to our great disappointment we discovered that nearly all the composition had separated from the skins and left the seams perfectly exposed; so that the boat now leaked very much. To repair this misfortune without pitch is impossible, and as none of that article is to be procured, we there- fore, however reluctantly, are obliged to aban- don her, after having so much labor in the con- struction."
Now that the boat had proved a failure, they must construct others to take its place. The timber was very scarce throughout the upper course of the river-timber large enough for their purpose. The country was searched for trees large enough and at about eight miles distant they found two cottonwoods, which when fallen, did not prove to be very well suited for the purpose, but as nothing better was attainable they were used.
These boats being constructed, the party continued on to the three forks of the river, reaching there in ten days. During this time the journal makes mention of observing many wild roses, sage. box-elder, service berries, chokecherries, black, yellow, red and purple currants, wild onions, garlic, abundance of sun flowers, aspen, and a few species of trees, but none of large dimensions ; elk, deer, otter, black snakes, beaver, sand hill cranes, pheasants, wild geese and ducks, a few bear and buffalo. The buffalo were not so numerous as at points down the river, neither were other game animals found in such great numbers.
A few miles distant from the falls a large Indian lodge was passed which evidently had been designed as a great council fire, but in construction it differed from any the party had seen further down the river. It was built in
the form of a circle, 216 feet in circumference at its base. It was composed of 16 cottonwood poles the thickness of a man's body and about fifty feet long, which converged to a point and were tied together with withes of willow brush. On the 16th 40 little booths were passed. The journal says: "These seemed to have been deserted about ten days, and as we supposed by the Shoshonees or Snake Indians, whom we hoped soon to meet, as they appeared, from their tracks, to have a number of horses with them."
During the same day they passed on the left side of the river a frame of a large lodge, which was 60 feet in diameter, around which was the remains of 80 leather lodges, all of which seemed to have been built during the last fall. On the 18th the journal says: "Being very anxious to meet with the Shoshonees or Snake Indians for the purpose of obtaining the necessary information of our route, as well as to procure horses, it was thought best for one of us to go forward with a small party and endeavor to discover them, before the daily discharge of our guns, which is necessary for our subsistence, should give them notice of our approach. If by accident they hear us they will most likely retreat to the mountains, mis- taking us for their enemiies, who usually attack them on this side."
Accordingly Captain Clark with three men followed the course of the river on the north bank until well in the afternoon, when he cross- ed over a mountain to the river beyond, thus cutting off several miles. In so doing he dis- covered an Indian trail, which he followed.
The Gates of the Rockies, a remarkable canyon of the Missouri, results from the con- finement of the Missouri by a spur of the Big Belt mountains, and is described by Captain Lewis in the following manner :
A mile and a half beyond this creek (now the Cot- tonwood), the rocks approach the river on both sides, forming a most sublime and extraordinary spectacle. For five and three-quarter miles these rocks rise per-
16
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
pendicular from the water's edge. to the height of nearly 1,200 feet. They are composed of a black gran- ite near the base, but from their lighter color above, and from the fragments, we suppose the upper part to be flint, of a yellowish brown or flint color. Nothing can be imagined more tremendous than the frowning darkness of these rocks, which project over the river and menace us with destruction. The river, 150 yards in width, seems to have forced its channel down this solid mass; but so reluctantly has the rock given away that, during the whole distance, the water is very deep even at the edges, and for the first three miles there is not a spot, except one of a few yards, in which a man could stand between the water and the towering per- pendicular of the mountain. The convulsion of the pas- sage must have been terrible, since at its outlet are vast columns of rock torn from the mountain, which are strewn on both sides of the river-the trophies, as it were, of a victory. Several fine springs burst out from the chasms of the rocks, and contribute to in- crease the river, which has now a strong current; but very fortunately we are enabled to overcome it with our oars, since it would be impossible to use either the cord or the pole. We were obliged to go on some time after dark, not being able to find a spot large enough to camp on; but at length about two miles above a small island in the middle of the river, we met with a spot on the left side, where we procured plenty of light wood and pitch pine. This extraordinary range of rocks we called the Gates of the Rocky mountains.
Continuing the account of the journey, the journal says :
"At a mile from the Gates a large creek comes down from the mountains and empties behind an island in the middle of a bend to the west. To this stream, which is 15 yards wide, we gave the name of Pott's creek, after John Potts, one of our men.
"Up this valley about ten miles we discov- ered a great smoke, as if the whole country had been set on fire; but were at a loss to decide whether it had been done accidentally by Cap- tain Clark's party, or by the Indians as a sig- nal on their observing us. We afterward learned that this was the fact; for they had heard a gun fired by one of Captain Clark's men, and believing that their enemies were ap- proaching, had fled into the mountains, first setting fire to the plains as a warning to their countrymen."
On July 22 after the party had passed sev-
eral small islands and a creek that flowed from their right as they ascended, we read from the journal as follows: "We were delighted to find that the Indian woman recognized the country ; she tells us that to this creek her coun- trymen make excursions to procure white paint on its banks, and we therefore call it White- earth creek. She says also that the Three Forks of the Missouri are at no great distance-a piece of intelligence that has cheered us all, as we hoped soon to reach the head of that river."
On Thursday, July 25, Captain Clark ar- rived at the Three Forks of the Missouri, the Jefferson, Madison and Gallatin. After exanı- ining the three rivers he found that the right branch contained the most water, and that it bore further to the west. Having this knowl- edge he determined to ascend it. He left a note informing Captain Lewis of his intention, and then ascended that stream, proceeding up the stream to his right. They camped for the night, having cut off 25 miles. The next morn- ing the party, except Charbineau and one of the men left with him, the former being una- ble to accompany them, advanced up the river and to the top of a mountain where he had a splendid view of the surrounding country. No signs of the Indians were to be seen. They returned to the camp where they left Charbi- neau. Captain Clark having decided to cross over to the Madison and examine it, they crossed over to the east side of the Jefferson and then to a branch of it that empties into it a few miles above the Three Forks. In the meantime, while crossing the Jefferson Charbi- neau was swept off his feet, and being unable to swim, would have lost his life had not Clark rescued him. They camped for the night about four miles distant from their last encamp- ment. Captain Clark was well worn out and during the night had quite a fever. The next day, however, he was able to resume his route for eight miles to the middle branch, the Madi- son. From here he proceeded down the stream .
to the forks and joined Lewis and his party.
17
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
During this time Captain Lewis had ad- vanced to the confluence of these rivers and made some explorations.
After speaking of the unknown country, of not having seen the Indians, of the fear that game would be scarce, of the possibility of not finding a passage across the mountains that would lead to the Columbia, the journal con- tinues : "Our consolation is that this south- west branch can scarcely head with any other river than the Columbia ; and that if any nation of Indians can live in the mountains we are able to endure as much as they can; and have even better means of procuring subsistence."
On the 30th of July the canoes were loaded, and they moved forward from the Three Forks of the Missouri up the Jefferson river. Near noon they reached the spot where the Bird- woman had been made a prisoner. Her story was that the men being too few to contend with the Minnetarees, mounted their horses and fled as soon as the attack began. The women and children dispersed, and Sacajawea, as she was crossing a shoal place, was over- taken in the middle of the river by her pursuers.
Captain Clark being unwell, Lewis took the advance. August the fourth he reached the mouth of a river which flows from the south- west, the Wisdom. This stream is now known as the Big Hole, or Wisdom, river. The party marched up this stream to a point near where it issues from the mountains. Here they went into camp for the night. In the morning Lewis and Drewyer continued up the river to a nar- row canyon, from which place they ascended a mountain. From this eminence they were in full view of the valleys of both the Jefferson and Wisdom.
In the meantime, before leaving the mouth of the Wisdom, Lewis left a note for Clark, instructing him to ascend the Jefferson. Clark reached the confluence of these streams Au- gust 6th, "but unluckily Captain Lewis's note had been left on the green pole which the beaver had cut down and carried off with the
note." Clark was now at a loss to know which branch to ascend; but decided on the right, which stream he ascended for several miles, until he met one of the hunters of Lewis's party who was coming down the river, who apprised him of his mistake. Clark returned to the forks of the river.
Before Clark reached the Jefferson he was overtaken by Captain Lewis, who accompanied him down the stream. Having reached the confluence of the rivers, they went into camp for the night, intending to ascend the Jefferson in the morning.
Immediately after breakfast in the morn- ing, August the 9th, Captain Lewis took three men, "and set out with a resolution to meet some nation of Indians before they returned, however long they might be separated from the party." He did not follow the course of tlie river, but took his course across the country. By the next evening they had come to a beauti- ful cove, which he called Shoshone cove. They spent the night here and early the next morn- ing they started up the river. Scarcely had they advanced five miles when Captain Lewis perceived a man on horseback. He was at a distance of two miles and was approaching them. When within one mile distance of Cap- tain Lewis he observed him and suddenly stopped. Captain Lewis employed the signs of friendship most common among Indian tribes and at the same time calling to him, repeating the words, "tabba bone," which means in the Shoshonean language, white man. But the In- dian did not approach any nearer, but remained in the place where he had stopped. Lewis advanced towards him until he had approached within one hundred yards, when he "suddenly turned his horse, and giving him the whip. leaped across the creek and disappeared in an instant among the willow bushes. With him vanished all hopes which the sight of him in- spired, of a friendly introduction to his coun- trymen."
On the morning of the 12th of August they
2
18
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
continued up the main stream on their right. The stream gradually became smaller, till, after going two miles, it had so greatly diminished that one of the men in a fit of enthusiasm, with one foot on each side of the river, thanked God that he had lived to bestride the Missouri. They had now reached the hidden source of the river, which had never yet been seen by civilized man. They then crossed the continental di- vide and "followed a descent much steeper than that on the eastern side, and at a distance of three-quarters of a mile reached a handsome, bold creek of cold, clear water, running to the westward. They stopped to taste for the first time the waters of the Columbia; and after a few minutes followed the road across the steep hills and low hollows, till they reached a spring on the side of the mountain."
The next day they discovered two women, a man, and some dogs. They were at the distance of a mile and fled at the approach of the party. Continuing their journey the party had not gone more than a mile when they saw three more Indian women. Lewis and his party were not observed until within thirty paces of them. "One of them, a young woman, immediately took flight, the other two, an eld- erly woman and a little girl, seeing they were too near for them to escape, sat on the ground, and holding down their heads seemed as if re- conciled to the death which they supposed awaited them." Lewis repeated to them the words "tabba bone," and at the same time strip- ping up his shirt sleeves to prove that he was a white man. This relieved them from their alarm. Lewis informed them by signs that he desired to go to their camp to see the chiefs. While being directed in the direction of the camp. they were met by sixty warriors, all mounted. The women, who had gone in ad- vance, informed the warriors that they were white men; and when they approached each other, they were given a warm welcome. Cap- tain Lewis lighted a pipe and offered it to the
Indians, who had now seated themselves in a circle around the party. When the smoking was concluded, the warriors and the party moved on to the camp of the Indians, which was four miles distant. Here Lewis informed them of his mission. After spending some time time with the chiefs he walked down to the Lemhi river. "The chief informed him that this stream discharged at a distance of a half day's walk, into another (Salmon river) of twice its size-and that it was rocky, rapid, and so closely confined between mountains that it was impossible to pass down it by land or water to the great lake (Pacific ocean) where, as he had understood, the white man lived."
Captain Lewis, having secured the good will of Cameahwait, the chief, informed him of his party at the forks of the Jefferson, and en- deavored to engage him and a number of his men to accompany him, and assured them they should be rewarded for their trouble. Many of them were skeptical, fearing that they might be enemies. After the chief and a few of the men started, nearly all the warriors followed. After reaching the main party they were given many little trinkets and clothing. Here Sacajawea, while acting as interpreter, recog- nized, in the person of Cameahwait, her broth- er. "She instantly jumped up, and ran and em- braced him, throwing over him her blanket and weeping profusely," in the language of the explorers.
Ten horses were purchased and paid for in merchandise. At noon August 24, they were all ready and started for the Shoshone camp. The Indians were paid to assist in transporting the baggage across the mountains to the other side.
The Indians informed them that the river was very rapid and rough, and that it was in- possible to descend it. The explorers, how- ever, advanced down the river for about thirty miles, only to learn that it would be impossible to continue further. When with the Shoshones
19
HISTORY OF MONTANA.
at the Lemhi camp, they secured the services of an old Indian guide, which were found to be very valuable to them.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.