History of Chautauqua County, New York, Part 34

Author: Edson, Obed, 1832-; Merrill, Georgia Drew, editor
Publication date: 1894
Publisher: Boston, Mass. : W.A. Fergusson
Number of Pages: 1068


USA > New York > Chautauqua County > History of Chautauqua County, New York > Part 34


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governor in the fall of 1824 by a majority of 16,906 votes. Talmadge was elected over Root by a still larger majority. Mr. Green, the only one of the 17 senators that voted against the electoral bill that ventured to be a candi- date, was beaten by a tremendous majority. Dudley Marvin who was then a member of congress from Canandaigua remarked to Mr. Spencer, his suc- cessful opponent, that he " had got a greater majority than if he had run alone."


Neither of the candidates for president having received a majority of the electoral college, the election was made in the House of Representatives, resulting in the choice of John Quincy Adams for president. Dudley Mar- vin, then member of congress from Canandaigua voting for Adams.


March 23d, 1824, the town of Mina was erected from Clymer and com- prised the present towns of Sherman and Mina. Nathaniel Throop was elected its first supervisor. April 1, 1824, the town of Ellington was erected from Gerry, and then comprised the present towns of Cherry Creek and Ellington. James Thatcher was elected its first supervisor.


CHAPTER XXXII.


GENERAL LAFAYETTE.


T HE year (825, closing the first quarter of this century, was a doubly memorable year in the history of the county. In the early summer Chautauqua was favored by a visit from the Marquis de Lafayette. It now seems strange that the people of this remote region, with the log cabins and forests still around them, and so recently struggling for supremacy with wolves and bears, should have been honored with the presence of so distin- guished a personage. While Lafayette was but 19 years of age, he was stationed at Metz, in France, where learning from the Duke of Gloster, brother of the king of England, of the Revolution in America, and the king's determination to crush it, he immediately conceived the idea of assisting the Americans in their struggle for freedom. He persisted with firmness in risking his per- sonal safety, as well as his fortune, in their cause against the remonstrance of his friends, and the opposition of his government. When the unfavorable result of the campaign of 1776 became known in Europe, and hope for the success of America was given up, Silas Dean the commissioner of the United States in France, advised Lafayette not to sail, to America. Lafayette thanked Dean for his frankness, but told him he should purchase a ship and sail, saying that it was in the hour of danger that he wished to share his


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fortunes with America. The service that he rendered during the Revolu- tion, and his devotion to Washington and his canse are familiar to all. His influence led France to espouse our cause and to send a French fleet and ' army to our assistance which were decisive of the war. For the great ser- vice that he rendered the country in its extreme hour of need, we owe him even more gratitude than has ever been expressed. He was not of our race, but was constant to our cause and faithful to the end. He commands our respect, not only for his great personal services but for his private virtues. The story of our wrongs alone led him to cross the ocean and espouse our cause. He was the noblest knight-errant of modern times. After the war for independence in America he returned to France. He took a prominent part, always upon the side of liberty and humanity, in the exciting period the reign of fire and blood, known in history as the French Revolution. He was made commander of the National Guard, and saved the life of the king and the royal family from the fury of the mob. Afterwards he was imprisoned for several years in an Austrian prison, but set free to take important part in the affairs of France at the downfall of Napoleon.


In 1784, Lafayette had visited the United States upon the invitation of Washington, and now, upon the invitation of President Monroe, he had excepted an invitation to visit this country a second time. On his arrival at New York, the governor, mayor and other important persons went to meet him in steamers. They towed him into New York harbor, and welcomed him as the nation's guest. No such event had ever occurred in history. He who had helped a people in the days of their weakness and poverty to gain their freedom, had now come back after 40 years, to find another gen- eration of men, a nation strong and prosperous, and to be welcomed to " enjoy a triumph reserved neither to conquerors nor monarchs, the assurance that in all America there was not a heart that did not beat with joy and grati- itude in hearing his name." Accompanied by his son G. W. Lafayette and his secretary M. Lavasseur, he proceeded as far north as Portsmouth, N. H., returned to New York, and then visited Washington, Yorktown, Charleston and New Orleans. He came up the Mississippi through a country which was an unbroken forest in 1777, passing through Kentucky, Ohio and New York to Boston, where he participated in the ceremonies connected with the laying of the corner-stone of the Bunker Hill monument. He passed through this county, and its citizens had the privilege of seeing this distinguished man, and testifying the gratitude they felt for the great service that he had rendered this country. They spired no pains to welcome him. His recep- tion by them showed that they did full honor to the occasion.


John M. Edson of Sinclairville who had the privilege of sitting at the same table with Lafayette at the entertainment given at Fredonia, describes him to be a man less than six feet in height and somewhat corpulent. He


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wore a wig of dark hair, was of dark complexion and had full cheeks. He talked English well and freely with the soldiers ; was very affable and cour- teous. He sat at the head of one of the tables, at which, besides others, there were 30 soldiers of the Revolution, 12 of whom were at Yorktown. Mr. Edson also said that in the confusion occasioned by the innnense crowd, a horse took fright, and a woman was thrown from a wagon and injured. Lafayette made many inquiries at different times respecting the accident, and expressed much solicitation for the injured person. It is singular that one who during a long life had been personally familiar with scenes and men of strife from the days of Mirabeau to those of Napoleon, who had him- self been a conspicuous actor in the most warlike period of French history, and had witnessed scenes of blood in the Reign of Terror and the strife that accompanied the fall of Napoleon, had preserved the kindly instincts of his heart so fresh that he could feel such pity for the misfortune of a stranger that casually came to his notice in the backwoods of America.


CHAPTER XXXIII.


THE ERIE CANAL, ETC.


N 1825 also the Erie canal was completed to Buffalo. This event was not only of the utmost importance to the people of western New York, but to the whole country, as it most favorably determined the destiny of this county. Few now realize the magnitude of this great work, or how important and extended are the benefits that have resulted from it. Every suggestion made preceding its construction, as to the importance of water communication between the ocean and the lakes, even as to the improvement of natural channels that could be made to connect those waters, has been a subject of interest and much discussion, and regarded as of importance in throwing light upon the origin of this great enterprise. It is interesting to know that the search for a water communication between the East and the West made the circumstance of the near approach of the head- waters of the Allegany to Lake Erie a subject of inquiry shortly after the Revolution, that Washington was quite familiar with the geography of this region, that he became interested in, and acquired special knowledge of our beautiful lake. As a contribution to the history of internal navigation and also that of the Erie canal, and in order to preserve a record of the early inves- tigations respecting the waters of Chautauqua county in connection with the internal navigation of the country by such important personages as Wash-


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ington and Jefferson, we will now devote considerable space to Washington's correspondence in 1788 with Thomas Jefferson, and Gen. William Irvine, who, in the Revolution, had been stationed at Pittsburgh. In these letters will be found other interesting and valuable facts relating to the early history of the county and the lake, reference to which has been heretofore made.


Communication between the waters of Lake Erie and the Ohio river had been a subject of inquiry with certain distinguished gentlemen ; and Gen. Washington, for information upon that subject, addressed a letter to Gen. Irvine, dated January 10, 1788, inquiring of him :- 1. As to the face of the country between the sources of canoe navigation of the Cuyahoga, which empties itself into Lake Erie, and the Big Beaver, and between the Cuyahoga and the Muskingum. 2. As to the distance between the waters of the Cuyahoga and each of the two rivers above mentioned. 3. Whether it would be practicable, and not expensive, to cut a canal between the Cuyahoga and either of the above rivers, so as to open a communication between the waters of Lake Erie and the Ohio. 4. Whether there is any more direct, practicable and easy communication than these between the waters of Lake Frie and the Ohio, by which the fur and peltry of the upper country can be transferred .* In answer to this letter, Gen. Irvine replied :


NEW YORK, Jan. 27, 17SS.


SIR : I have been honored by your letter of the uth instant. I need not tell you how much pleasure it would give me to answer your queries to your satisfaction ; but I am persuaded that no observation short of an actual survey will enable you to gratify your correspondents abroad (particularly in relation to your third query, ) with such accuracy as to state anything positively. I will, however, relate to you such facts as have come within my own knowledge, as well as accounts of persons whom I think are to be confided in. From a place called Mahon- ing, on the Big Beaver, to the head of the Falls of Cuyahoga, it is about 30 miles. Although the country is hilly, it is not mountainous. The principal elevation is called Beech Ridge, which is not high, though extensive, being several miles over, with a flat and moist country on the summit, and some places inelining to be marshy. The difficulty of traveling is much increased by the beech roots with which the timber is heavily incumbered. The Cuyahoga above the Great Falls is rapid and rocky, and is interrupted by several lesser falls on the branch which heads towards that part of the Big Beaver called the Mahoning, This information I had from an intelligent person then loading a sloop at the mouth of the Cuyahoga for Detroit. He added, that an old Indian assured him that it was only 15 miles across from the Mahoning to a navigable creek a few miles east of the Cuyahoga ; that he had employed the Indian to clear a road, and when that was done he intended to explore the country himself. I presiune this ser- vice was not preformed, as this gentlemen, man and his horses, were all destroyed, and his store-house burned, by the Indians. Captain Bady, a partisan officer, informed me that the sources of the Big Beaver, Muskingum, and a large deep creek which empties into Lake Erie, 15 or 20 miles above Cuyahoga, are within a few miles of each other ( perhaps four or five), and the country level. Several other persons of credibility and information have assured me that the portage between Muskingum and the waters falling into the lake, in wet seasons, does not exceed 15 miles ; some say two, but I believe the first-named distance is the safest to credit. At Mahoning, and for many miles above and below, I found the course of the Big Beaver to be east and west, from which I conclude this stream to be nearest to the main branch of the Cuyahoga ; and on comparing the several accounts, I am led to think that the shortest communication


* Sparks' Washington's Writings, Vol. I.X., 303.


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between the waters of Beaver, Muskingum and Lake Erie, will be east and west of Cuyahoga. I have also been informed by a gentleman, that the sources of Grand river, and a branch of the Beaver called Shenango, are not 12 tuiles apart, the country hilly. I know the Shenango to be a boatable stream at its confluence with the Beaver 20 miles from the Ohio.


I dropped down the Beaver from Mahoning to the Great Falls ( about seven miles from the Ohio) in a canoe, on the first of July, 1784, without the least difficulty. At this season all the western waters are remarkably low ; and although some ripples appear, there is nothing to cause any material obstruction. The falls, at first view, appear impracticable at low water; indeed, too difficult at any season ; nevertheless, they have been passed at all seasons. I met two men in a flat-bottomed boat a few miles above the falls, who had carried their cargo half a mile on shore, and then warped up their empty boat. They set with poles the rest of the way to Mahoning. The boat carried one and a half tons ; but in some seasons there will be water enough for loads of five tons. Canoes, it is said, have ascended 25 miles higher than the Mahon- ing, which certainly must be near one branch of Muskingum, as it continues in a westerly course ; and the most easterly branch of that river, it is agreed by all who have been in that quarter, approaches very near to the waters falling into the lake ; all agree, likewise, that the rivers north of the dividing ridge are deep and smooth, the country being level. Following the Indian path, which generally keeps in the low ground along the river, the distance from the mouth of the Big Beaver to Mahoning is about 50 miles ; which, from the computed distance thence to Cuyahoga, gives So miles in all. But I am certain a much better road will be found by keeping along the ground which divides the waters of the Big and Little Beavers. But this digression I must beg your pardon for. To your further query I think I shall be able to afford you more satisfaction, as I can point out a more practicable and easy communication, by which the articles of trade you mention can be transported from Lake Erie, than by any other hitherto mentioned route ; at least until canals are cut. This is by a branch of the Allegany, which is navigable by boats of considerable burthen, to within eight miles of Lake Erie. I examined the greater part of the communication myself, and such parts as I did not, was done by persons before and subsequent to my being there, whose accounts can scarce be doubted.


From Fort Pitt to Venango by land, on the Indian and French path, is computed to be 90 miles ; by water it is said to be one-third more. But as you know the country so far, I will forbear giving a more particular account of it ; * but proceed to inform you that I set out and traveled by land from Venango, though frequently on the beach or within high-water mark, (the country being in many places impassable for a horse, ) to a confluence of a branch of the river called Coniwango, which is about 65 miles from French creek. The general course of the Allegany between these two creeks is north-east. The course of the Coniwango is very near due north ; it is about -- yards wide. It is upwards of - yards, 30 miles from its con- fluence with the Allegany at a fork. It is deep and not very rapld. To the Coniwango fork of the Allegany, the navigation is rather better than from Venango to Fort Pitt. I traveled about 25 miles a day. Two Indians pushed a loaded canoe, aud encamped with me every night. As the Coniwango is crooked, I think it must be 40 miles from the Allegany to its fork by water. One of the forks continues in a northern direction about seven miles to a beautiful lake. The lake is noticed on Hutchins' map, by the name of lake Jadaque. The map is badly executed. It extends, from the best information I could obtain, to within nine miles of Lake Erie ; it is from one to two miles broad, and deep enough for navigation. I was taken sick, which pre- vented my journey over Lake Erie. The following account I had from a chief of the Seneca tribe, as well as from a white man named Mathews, a Virginian, who says that he was taken prisoner by the Indians at Kanawha, in 1777. He has lived with the Indians since that time. As far as I could judge, he appeared to be well acquainted with this part of the country. I employed him as interpreter. He stated that from the upper end of Jadaque lake, it is not more than nine miles along the path or road to Lake Erie, and that there was formerly a wagon road between the two lakes. The Indian related, that he was about 14 years old when the French went first to establish a post at Fort Pitt ; that he accompanied an uncle who was a chief war- rior, on that occasion, who attended the French ; that the head of Lake Jadaque was the spot


* Washington had visited French Creek in 1753.


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where the detachment embarked ; that they fell down to Fort Duquesne without any obstruc- tion, in large canoes, with all the artillery, stores, provisions, etc." He added that French creek was made the medium of communication afterwards ; why, he could not tell, but always wondered at it, as he expressed himself, knowing the other to be so much better. The Seneca related many things to corroborate and convince me of its truth. He stated that he was con- stantly employed by the British during the late war, and had the rank of captain ; and that he commanded the party which was defeated on the Allegany by Colonel Brodhead ; that in the year 1782, a detachment composed of 300 British and 500 Indians, was formed, and actually embarked in canoes on Lake Jadaque, with 12 pieces of artillery, with an avowed intention of attacking Fort Pitt. This expedition, he says, was laid aside, in consequence of the reported repairs and strength of Fort Pitt, carried by a spy from the neighborhood of the fort. They then contented themselves with the usual mode of warfare, by sending small parties on the frontier, one of which burned Hannastown. I remember very well that, in August 1782, we picked up at Fort Pitt a number of canoes, which had drifted down the river ; and I received repeated accounts, in June and July, from a Canadian who deserted to me, as well as from some friendly Indians, of this armament ; but I never knew before then where they had assembled.


Both Mathews and the Seneca desired to conduct me, as a further proof of their veracity, to the spot, on the shore of Lake Jadaque, where lies one of the four-pounders left by the French. Major Finley, who has been in that country since I was, informed me that he had seen the gun. Mathews was very desirous that I should explore the east fork of the Coniwango ; but my sick- ness prevented me. His account is, that it is navigable about 30 miles up from the junction of the north and west branch, to a swamp which is about half a mile wide ; that on the north side of this swamp a large creek has its source, called "Catterauque " (Cattaraugus, ) which falls into Lake Erie, 40 miles from the foot of this lake ; that he has several times been of parties who crossed over, carrying the canoes across the swamps. He added, that the Catterauque watered much the finest country between Buffalo and Presque Isle. A letter has been published lately in a Philadelphia newspaper, written by one of the gentlemen employed in running the bound- ary line between New York and Pennsylvania, which fully supports these accounts. As well as I can remember,/his words are : 'We pushed up a large branch of the Allegany, called Chataghque (so he spells the name. ) which is from one half mile to two or three wide, and near twenty long. The country is level, and the land good, to a great extent, on both sides. We ascended the dividing ridge between the two lakes. From this place a most delightful prospect was open before us.' He then dwells on the scene before him and future prospects, not to the present purpose ; but concludes by saying that the waters of Lake Erie cannot be brought to the Ohio, as the sununit of the dividing ridge is 700 feet higher than Lake Erie, 'We traveled,' he continues, 'along the Indian path to the lake, which is only nine miles, though very crooked. A good wagon road may be made, which will not exceed seven miles, as the hill is not steep. I regret that this detail has been extended to so great a length, for I fear that it will rather weary than afford you satisfaction. Being obliged to blend the information of others, with that which came within my own observation, in some degree renders it unavoidable.


I have the honor to be, with great respect, Your most obedient servant, WILLIAM IRVINE.


This letter was copied by Dr. William A. Irvine, from the original lent to his father, Callender Irvine, by Judge Washington ; and it contains perhaps the first written description extant of Chautauqua lake and ontlet. Chau- tauqua lake was then rarely visited, except by the Senecas, who came there to hunt, and to capture the excellent fish, for which it is now so justly cele- brated, and which its pure waters yielded in great abundance. The few white men that wandered as far as its shores, found it a secluded lake, buried


* The first expedition sent by the French against Fort Pitt, was that commanded by Captain Contrecoeur. which compelled the capitulation of Pittsburgh, in April 1754.


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in the heart of the wilderness, where the wild fowl gathered unmolested, and where the howl of the wolf could be heard nightly among its neighbor- ing hills. Although the lake was rarely seen by those who could appreciate its beauties, yet it was perhaps then more beantiful than now. In spring, the margin of every inlet and cove, and its whole shore, lay concealed beneath a mass of green foliage which the frosts in autumn changed to those bright and varied hues that belong only to an American forest. Even the rough French and English voyagers that sometimes may have traversed it when a deep solitude was around it, could not have beheld, without admiration, its clear waters and beautiful shores.


General Washington answered this letter from General Irvine thus :


MOUNT VERNON, 18th February, 1788.


SIR : I have to acknowledge the receipt of your favor of the 27th ult., and to thank you for the information contained in it. As a communication between the waters of Lake Erie and those of Ohio is a matter which promises great public utility, and as every step towards the investigation of it may be considered as promoting the general interests of our country, I need make no apology to you for any trouble that I have given upon the subject. I am fully sensible that no account can be sufficiently accurate to hazard any operations upon, without an actual survey. My object in wishing a solution of the queries proposed to you, was, that I might be enabled to return answers, in some degree satisfactory, to several gentlemen of distinction in foreign countries, who have appealed to me for information on the subject, in behalf of others who wish to engage in the fur trade, and at the same time gratify my own curiosity, and assist me in forming a judgement of the practicability of opening communication, should it ever be seriously in contemplation. 1. Could a channel once be opened to convey the fur and peltry from the lakes into the Eastern county, its advantages would be so obvious as to induce an opinion that it would in a short time become the channel of conveyance for inch of the commodities brought from thence. 2 The trade between New York and that quarter, is subject to great inconvenience from the length of the communication, number of portages, and, at seasons, from ice ; yet it has, notwithstanding, been prosecuted with success. I shall feel myself much obliged by any further information that you may find time and inclination to communicate to me on this head. I am, sir, with great esteem, your most obedient, &c.,


GEORGE WASHINGTON.


General Irvine's later letter to General Washington upon the subject. NEW YORK, Oct. 6th, 1788.


SIR : I do myself the honor to enclose a sketch of the waters of the Allegany, which approach near to Lake Erie. It is taken from an actual survey made by the persons who ran the line between the states of New York and Pennsylvania. These gentleman say that the mam branch of the Allegany falls in Pennsylvania, and that there is only seven or eight miles land carriage between it and the head of a branch of Susquehanna, called Tioga, which is navigable for large boats at most seasons. The navigation of Caniwango, I know, is much preferable to French creek.


I have the honor to be with the highest respect, sir, your excellency's most obedient and humble servant, WM. IRVINE.


This letter was never published except in "Young's History." It is found in a bound volume of the Washington Papers, and is entered in an index of those papers made by Rev. Jared Sparks. Accompaning this letter was an accurate map of " Chantaugh " lake, and " Canewango river ;" also Chautauqua Creek portage from Lake Erie to Chautauqua lake, and also the




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