History of Chautauqua County, New York, Part 5

Author: Edson, Obed, 1832-; Merrill, Georgia Drew, editor
Publication date: 1894
Publisher: Boston, Mass. : W.A. Fergusson
Number of Pages: 1068

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*A chapter devoted to the " Birds of Chautauqua County," prepared by John M. Edson, now of New What- com, Washington, formerly of Sinclairville, who for many years made a special and practical study of the sub- ject, will be found in this volume, and contains a complete and accurate description of the winged inhabitants of our county.

HISTORY OF CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY, N. Y.

From the shales of the Portage group along the beds of several streams and at varions places in Lake Erie, carburetted hydrogen issues in great quantities. The escape of this gas is indicated by bubbles upon the surface. It is sometimes accompanied by petroleum. The gas burns with a white flame tinged with yellow above and blue near the surface of the burner. It is used at Fredonia and Westfield for illuminating the villages. This gas is evolved at Barcelona and Van Buren, on the shore of Lake Erie a short dis- iance below Barcelona, in Sheridan, and on the west branch of Canadaway creek. Formerly Barcelona light honse was lighted with gas which escapes in that vicinity from a spring mentioned in an early survey. Since the light- house was discontinued the village of Westfield has been supplied from this source.

This gas escapes most profusely from the bed of the Canadaway creek at Fredonia. We copy from Child's "Gazetteer and Directory " : " The use of natural gas at Fredonia was begun in 1821, when experiments were made to determine its illuminating valne and it was introduced into a few of the public places and the hotel, which was thus illuminated when Lafayette passed through the village. This gas was the first used in the United States, and the gas works established here were the first in this country. The spring first discovered, and from which gas was first used, is located on the north bank of Canadaway creek, at the bridge crossing that stream on Main street. The gas escaped at various places in the immediate vicinity, but when the well was sunk it was drawn to it. The gas from this well; sufficient for about thirty burners, was used alone until 1858, when another well was sunk on the creek in the northwest part of the village by Preston Barmore, the shaft being thirty feet deep, six feet in diameter at the top and fourteen feet at the bottom, with two vertical borings, one of 100 and the other of 150 feet depth. In the fall of 1858 Elias Forbes purchased a half-interest in the well, a company was formed, and, during the remainder of 1858 and in 1859. about 2,000 cubic feet per day was conducted to the village through three miles of mains, and supplied directly from the well to the stores. During 1859 the company put in a gas-receiver of 12,000 cubic feet capacity and supplied private houses. In the fall'of 1871 Alvah Colburn made a boring for gas near his mill with a view to supplying fuel for generating steam therefor ; but the supply was inadequate, though evolved in considerable quantity. He purchased the Barmore interest in the gas company and con- nected his well (which is 1,200 feet deep,) with the company's receiver. Previous to the opening of Colburn's well the supply of gas was not suffi- cient to meet the demand for it in the winter, and the deficiency was made np by gas manufactured from coal.

Between Dunkirk and Barcelona along the beach are found many curions concretional forms that have been thrown down by the undermining action

ABORIGINAL REMAINS.

of the waves. They are sometimes two or three feet in diameter and not more than six inches thick, and are often called " turtle stones" from their resemblance to the shell of a turtle or tortoise and sometimes " septaria " (from septune partition). These were caused by the drying of the mud by the sun, which produced mud cracks; afterwards these cracks were filled with a harder material so that when the hard mass became worn it has a honey- comb appearance.

CHAPTER IV.

ABORIGINAL REMAINS.

"For he was fresher from the hand That formed of earth the human face, And to the elements did stand In nearer kindred than our race."

W HEN man first made his appearance upon this continent and when he first became an occupant of this country is necessarily a sub- ject of conjecture. The pioneers found our country an unbroken wilderness. Yet often when exploring its silent depths, where forest shadows hung deepest they were startled at the discovery of unmistakable evidences of its having been anciently inhabited by a numerous people. Crowning the brows of hiils flanked by dark ravines, along the shores of its lakes and streams, in its valleys at numerous points, were plain traces of their industry. Earthworks or fortifications (mostly circular), mounds bearing marks of use by fire, and pits in which were buried mouldering skeletons ; and, later, where forests had given place to cultivated fields the spade and plow in springtime inade strange revelations of rude elements of war and peace, and oftentimes the crumbling relics of an ancient burial place. Beyond the limits of the county these evidences were thickly strewn. Commencing near the middle of the state they extended westwardly. In the valleys of the Ohio and Mis- sissippi these earthworks were even more numerously found of larger dimen- sions, and of greater antiquity. In Mexico and Central America they were older still and more imposing. It is evident that once there must have dwelt upon this continent during a long period of time a numerous and industrious people.

When the pioneers first came to Chautauqua these remains were more dis- tinct than now. Yet there are now within its boundaries many conspicuous and well preserved relics of the past. On both sides of the valley of the Cassadaga from its source to its mouth, along the valley of the Conewango until it leaves

HISTORY OF CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY, N. Y.

the state, around Chautauqua lake, in the western and lake towns they are still frequently found. They are being gradually obliterated by the plow. It often happens that persons who occupy the premises where these remains exist are indifferent to their preservation and permit them to be destroyed upon the slightest excuse. They are little aware of the growing interest that is being taken in antiquities; that soon these relies of the past will have far more than a sentimental value, and that a little later these persons will re- gret the indifference with which they consented to their destruction. Antici- pating the disappearance of these evidences of ancient occupation, and with a view of preserving as far as possible a correct account of their number, character and extent for future reference, we give a detailed description of them. Many of these remains during years past have been minutely ex- amined by the writer in company with competent persons and careful surveys have been made. Of those not personally inspected we describe only those of which we have reliable and authentic evidence.

In Sheridan, near where the Erie railroad crosses the highway that leads from Fredonia to Forestville, about six miles from Fredonia upon the Newell Gould farm at an early day was plainly to be seen an ancient circular fortifi- cation inclosing about three acres. It presented the appearance to Mr. New- ell Gould, an intelligent man and the early owner of the premises, as having once been a clearing. The older trees walnut and chestnut had grown as trees do in an open space exposed to the sun. Their branches were near the ground, the trees themselves were not high or slim but broad, while the younger ones of denser growth grew after the manner of trees in a forest. 'The older trees were supposed to have been of 200 or 300 years' growth. Their roots grew on the surface, showing that the earth had not been heaped about them, and indicated that they had grown after the embankment was formed. Around this area were numerous shallow pits at regular intervals. These in every instance were found in pairs. About fifty years ago the plow disclosed great quantities of Indian arrows, also pestles and mortars. The last were made of stones not common to the locality, and were about eighteen inches square and smoothly hollowed out. In the vicinity many human bones had been brought to light. At one time Rev. D. S. Steadman of Fre- donia, and at another Dr. Avery and Prof. Griswold of Forestville examined the ground, and it is estimated, a hundred skeletons were disturbed. It was said that a cartload of the exhumed bones were put back into the excavation. In ISto Dr. Armstrong, Professors Sanford and Fradenburg of Fredonia Nor- mal school and others examined the burial place about sixty rods distant from the earthwork. A great quantity of human bones were found buried within a space measuring twelve by twenty feet. Bones of persons of both sexes and all ages were indiscriminately mingled indicating a promiscuous burial. A jaw was found which as shown by the teeth belonged to a child

ABORIGINAL REMAINS.

of not more than four years, while skulls were discovered belonging to mature and even old individuals and lay in close juxtaposition to the slender bones of women. Not more than fifteen inches of earth covered these remains, and the lowest bones were thirty inches from the surface. They were placed in three layers in an opening two feet square, eight or nine skulls were found mingled with vertebra, femur and humerus bones. These remains have been several times described. Samuel A. Brown, Esq., in a lecture delivered in 1843 at Jamestown says that the remains of two or three ancient forts were then to be seen in Sheridan, the one above described he mentioned as very large.

Near the eastern boundary of Fredonia, not far from the Canadaway, were the remains of two fortifications about So rods apart extending from bank to hank a distance of about two hundred feet across the level summit of a pictur- esque hill, was one of these old intrenchments, in front of which were once the traces of a large pit. Near these remains human bones and Indian relics have occasionally been found. Mr. Brown says : " The trench and embank- ment which cut off about an acre of ground are still plainly to be seen," and that a tree which grew upon an embankment showed 150 rings of growth. Upon the beautiful and sightly eminence of one of these ancient works Dr. A. P. Phillips has erected a pleasant residence (once occupied by his brother, the celebrated singer Philip Phillips) which is called " Fort Hill Villa." In its vicinity pottery and other relics have been found.

In Portland besides a circular earth work and other evidences of ancient occupation, there were several ancient roadways. Dr. Taylor in his " History of Portland," says : " There remains an old fort on the west bank of Fay's creek, on the central part of lot 38, T. 5. The main or north Erie road, runs through the northern border, leaving but the ancient wall or breastwork at the side of the carriage way, the balance being on the south of the road, and including the garden and a part of the dooryard of Mrs. Sally L. Coon. It was a heavy earth work, slightly elliptical in form, and con- taining about one acre. The breastworks have been so often subjected to the leveling influence of implements of husbandry that it is now difficult to determine anything definite respecting them. A large maple tree in the highway stands upon the northern wall. Various and curious specimens of earthen and stone pipes, and utensils of various forms have been found within and around the walls. Old roadways are found in various places. Three of these no doubt have an antiquity coval with the old fort, while those nearer the lake are evidently of more recent origin. The road leading from the site of the old stone school-house on the old Erie road in S. Dist. No. 3, south to the foot of the hill occupies the bed of an old road. Another roadway is found leading from near the residence of A. B. Post on lot 4, T. 5, in a westerly direction to the creek near the sawmill of Earl

HISTORY OF CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY, N. Y.

Bacon. Another is found crossing the road leading to the lake from the brick church in West Portland on lot 41, T. 5, in a westerly direction, and intersecting one in the east border of Westfield leading from the main or Erie road on lot 29. T. A. R. 14, nearly to the lake. Railroad excavations made it evident that these two were artificial. One of shorter extent is seen northwest of Brocton, and between that village and Brocton station on the Budlong farm. Excavations in this have shown a bed of large stones covered deeply with earth and gravel. This roadway ran nearly due north and south. Another road ran from a point on the south road a few rods west of the former residence of Timothy Judson on lot 19, T. 5, northwesterly across the farm of William Becker and partly across the farm of J. L. Hatch.

In Westfield near the southeast corner of lot 18, township 4, range 14, was a very prominent cirenlar earthwork. In the minutes of the survey made by the Holland Land Company, of the line between lots 18 and 13 this earthwork is noted as an " old fort plain to be seen," and is sketched with a " gateway:" on its east side. The writer examined it in 1892. It lies at the south boundary of the village of Westfield, not many rods from the west line of lot 18, partly within and partly withont the corporation ; upon lands of Carlisle Durand and Forest Holly. Durand's land is a level tract that many years before had been cleared but not cultivated, and was in 1892 grown up to brush ; there the embankment was level, wide upon its top, and conspicuous and unimpaired for twenty rods or more, and from two to three feet high. Upon the lands of Mr. Holly the earthwork extended to where is now a well- enltivated vineyard. Much of the way the bank and ditch has been obliter- ated by the plow yet it can be traced among the graperows some distance. The depression once the ditch, notwithstanding a continuons cultivation, for a considerable distance was two feet deep. The longest diameter extended 415 feet north and south, So feet upon the lands of Mr. Durand. Its shortest diameter measures 342 feet. Two and three-fourths acres of dry gravelly land is included within its walls. There is nothing to show that the site was chosen for its defensive character, for the land around it is level or but slightly undulating.

Around the beautiful lakes and village of Cassadaga are many of these ancient ruins, and they have often been visited by the writer. At the extremity of the cape extending from the southern side far into the lower of these lakes is a curious mound. Its longest diameter is abont seven rods; its shortest five. Its summit is about twelve feet above the lake, and is about eight feet above the low neck of land that connects it with the higher and wider part of the cape. It seems to have been anciently occupied for the usual relics have been found in great abundance. Stretching across this cape for twenty rods along the brink of the plateau that rises about twelve rods in the rear of this mound was formerly an earthen breastwork, traces of which were visible

ABORIGINAL REMAINS.

in 1870 when I examined it .. Still further to the rear, extending nearly from shore to shore, was another breastwork. Several acres were inclosed by these earthworks and the two shores of the lake. In the vicinity much pottery and many stone utensils have been found. Near the northern shore of the lake was a large mound. In 1870, although frequent plowing had reduced its dimensions, it was four or five feet high and three or four rods in diameter. It is said to have been twelve feet high when first seen with forest trees of centuries' growth standing upon it. This mound was excavated about 1822, and a large number of human skeletons exhumed, one of minsnal size. Extending in a northwesterly direction from an extensive firebed in the neighborhood of this mound, a distance of sixty rods or more on the east side of the lake was an elevated strip of land as wide as the track of an ordinary turnpike. The traces of this ancient road are still visible. At various other places around Cassadaga and along the lake were caches and extensive fire- beds or hearths with coal and ashes buried deep in the ground. Skeletons have been exhumed in many places, and arrows, pottery and stone imple- ments in great profusion.

The first pioneers found at Sinclairville and in its vicinity numerous relics. The personal observation of the writer, as well as his knowledge of facts . acquired through other sources, enables him to give a detailed and correct description of them, as he has resided here all his life. W. W. Henderson, secretary of the Chautauqua Society of History and Natural Science from its organization, was long a resident of Sinclairville, and is able to verify the description. An earthwork extended westerly from where the Baptist church of Sinclairville now stands for about forty-five rods parallel to the steep bank at the northerly boundary of the plateau upon which the central portion of the village is situated, and abont two and one-half rods distant from the bank. This was plainly visible the whole distance at the first settlement. The first highway in the village once ran between this work and this steep bank. At some points the earthwork was so uear to it as to force the travelled track into narrow limits. Near the middle of the line of this breastwork and a little south of it were large quantities of stone that had been charred and crumbled by fire. They were covered by the soil. On and in the vicinity of the hotel garden an abundance of arrowheads of flint, ornamented pipes, hatchets and other stone instruments were and are now sometimes found. Commencing on the east side of Lester street near the town line and running thence many rod's westerly parallel with the brink of the declivity that form the south boundary of this plateau, and about three rods from it was a similar breastwork. It extended westward along the brink of the hill to wet ground where it faded away. The principal fortification seemed to be situated partly between these embankments. It was an extensive circular earthwork having a trench upon the outside. It enclosed the village green

HISTORY OF CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY, N. Y.

and the streets and lots lying adjacent to it. It crossed Main street a little east of the brick store of R. E. Sheldon, Lester street a little north of a small rivulet, and south of the Congregational church, just west of Lester street, was a gateway. The etuibankment crossed East avenne eight or ten rods east of the village green, passed over the site of the Methodist church, crossed Park street to a point south of the Baptist church and continued southerly to Main street. The little brook that runs from the spring a little distance northeast of the Methodist church, crossing Main street at the Reed block, passed through the northern portion of the enclosure of this ancient fort. All parts of this embankment were visible when the village was first settled, except where a wet and level place in its northeastern portion crossed Main street. It was four feet high, and required some labor to level it for the con- struction of Main street. Fullsized maple trees grew upon all these earth- works. Close by the village, upon a high bluff to the west that rises pre- cipitously from Mill creek, opposite the foot of Main street was once an earth- work. It. is said to have been circular with an excavation or cache within it from twelve to fifteen feet deep and eight feet across. The excavation and intrenehment have disappeared, and from near where this earthwork once stood, a beautiful prospect of the village and surrounding hills is obtained.

At cther points in Charlotte were ash heaps, caches, and other evidences of ancient occupation. Between the forks of a small stream on lot 53, upon the faria of John Ames, are two large ashheaps (visited by the writer and Mr. Richard Reed : ) the larger, 42 feet in diameter, had a depth of three feet. of burned soil and stones, the smaller 120 feet east of the other was 26 feet in diameter. In Gerry these remains were perhaps more numerous than in any other part of the county. In that town one-half mile south of those last described, upon the eastern portion of the farm of George Dingley, near the east line of lot 48 were many caches.

One-half mile south of the southern boundary of the village upon lot 47, and upon lands of B. L. Harrison and B. F. Dennison was a circular intrenchment enclosing several acres, within or near which great numbers of skeletons and rude implements of stone were found at many different times ..

One hundred feet of the eastern portion of this old intrenchment is still plainiy visible. The old Chautauqua road ran east and west through it. Sixty or seventy years ago as many as fifty linman skeletons were disenterred from two pits not far apart and near this intrenchment. The bodies seem to have been buried at the same time and were thrown together in great con- fusion. About 130 rods northeast was an ancient burial-ground well known to the pioneers in which many bodies seem to have been regularly interred. So slightly were the dead sepultured here, that while the ground was still covered with woods, skulls and other bones were sometimes discovered partly at the surface of the ground. These grim relics awakened the superstitious

ABORIGINAL REMAINS.

fancies of the early settlers, and are said to have given rise to startling stories of ghosts and murdered settlers. About forty years ago, W. W. Henderson, the writer, and others were present when twenty-five skeletons were disin- terred. They were buried regularly in a sitting posture and in two rows facing each other. Their place of burial is located on the north side and some distance from the old Chautauqua road on lands of James Cady on lot 47.

Two hundred feet east of this old intrenchment upon lot 47 in Gerry, sixty- five feet south of the Old Chautauqua road, where a grove of maple trees until lately grew, when the field was plowed for the first time, in a low mound were discovered a great quantity of inman bones. This mound was opened May 25, 1887, in the presence of the writer, Richard Reed, Dr. Frank Smith, W. J. Dunihne and others. It was twelve feet in diameter north and south, and ten feet east and west. Its top was four feet above the ground around it. An excavation seems to have been made from two to four feet deep into which the skeletons were promiscuously thrown. The ground in which they lay was a loam reasonably dry and slightly descending. They were mingled without order, evidencing the haste in which they were gathered to their final rest. The skulls lay mostly on the outside of the other bones. The thigh and hipbones were chiefly in the center. The skulls were poorly pre- served. The teeth often indicated that they decayed while the owner was living. These bones were covered with not more than eight inches of earth, and were generally so preserved as to indicate that not many centuries had elapsed since they were buried. Several femurs were as sound as those of an articulated skeleton. The skeletons seemed to be those of adults of both sexes, and the bones were so mingled that the skeletons could not be counted. Dr. Smith carefully selected the femur bones (over one hundred) and placed them by themselves. From their number there is no doubt that more than fifty persons had been buried. No arrows, pottery or other relics were found with them, save the tooth of some large animal probably moose or elk. A pile of the bones was photographed by W. J. Dunihne and photographs are now in the possession of the Buffalo Historical Society and Chautauqua Society of History and Natural Science.

Perhaps the best preserved of these ancient earthworks is in Gerry, one mile and one-half northwest of the last described remains in the northeast part of lot 38 and northwest part of lot 30; the line between the lots passing through the enclosure. It is principally on the farm of William H. Scott with a small part on that of G. Lane. It is almost entirely in the woods and has been undisturbed by the plow. It has been surveyed and carefully examined by the writer in company with Cyrus Thomas, H. L. Reynolds of the Smithsonian Institute, Prof. S. G. Love and W. W. Henderson, presi- dent and secretary of the Chautauqua Society of History and Natural Science, R. Reed, J. L. Bugbee and others. It is triangular or rather kite-shaped, its

HISTORY OF CHAUTAUQUA COUNTY, N. Y.

castern and western sides being about equal in length ; the southern side is shorter and more curved. The fortification is distinct and plain throughout its whole extent, except where there are appearances of original openings, and a few rods which have been plowed upon the eastern side, and there traces of the ditch are visible. The top of the earthen wall is now three feet or more higher in places than the bottom of the ditch. From the out- side of the ditch to the inner side of the embankment it averages one rod, two-thirds of this width occupied by the embankment. The stump of a whitepine tree four feet in diameter stands directly in the western ditch near the north angle of the earthwork. This tree apparently has had its growth since the ditch was dug ; four hundred annual rings were counted, and years must have elapsed since it ceased to grow. Upon the bank and in the ditch upon the south side of the intrenchment many trees are growing. A pine tree that stood there upon the bank and had been blown over showed from 230 to 260 rings. A small rivulet runs about four rods from the north angle of the fort, and about twenty feet lower than the enclosure. Near this is a narrow opening in the walls apparently designed for access to the brook. Another opening appears on the west side not far from the southwest angle. The land is level or slightly undulating, descending steeply about twenty feet, to the east and south on the north side, and rising to the west, where, at a distance of five rods the ground is ten feet higher than the embankment. The area of the entrenchment is level, bearing a growth of maple and beech with cherry, cucumber and white ash, and all over it are the decayed relics of an old pine forest. The north and south or longest diameter of this work is twenty-eight rods and its area about two acres. At the center of this forti- fication is a singular bowl-shaped depression four rods in diameter, at its lowest point five feet lower than the adjacent grounds. Within this depres- sion no trees are growing except three beeches, the largest not over 18 inches in diameter. Around the cavity are many trees of large growth. As yet there has been discovered no ashes or burned stones in this hollow, or the remains of palisades in the walls of this old fort. Some pottery and stone implements have been found along its eastern border, but as the ground in its vicinity is covered with woods discoveries may yet be made. The value of this old relie is appreciated by Mr. William H. Scott the owner of the land. While in his possession it will not be impaired.

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History of Chautauqua County, New York, Part 5

Author: Edson, Obed, 1832-; Merrill, Georgia Drew, editor Publication date: 1894 Publisher: Boston, Mass. : W.A. Fergusson Number of Pages: 1068

Author: Edson, Obed, 1832-; Merrill, Georgia Drew, editor
Publication date: 1894
Publisher: Boston, Mass. : W.A. Fergusson
Number of Pages: 1068