USA > New York > Chautauqua County > History of Chautauqua County, New York > Part 62
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The road from Buffalo for many years after the first settlement of Dun- kirk was unfitted for the transportation of merchandise. There were no bridges over Buffalo, Eighteen-mile and Cattaraugus creeks or the smaller streams, and in the spring and fall, its condition was the dread of travelers. From Cattaraugus westward it was " a continuous mudhole." The terrors of the "Four-mile woods," which extended east from Cattarangus creek have been often described. On account of its perils and loneliness it was called the "Great Sahara of the Holland Purchase." Notwithstanding bad roads favored transportation of merchandise by the lake, and in despite of the
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efforts of the Dunkirk association, the outlying country was yet too thinly populated to invite commerce sufficient to build up the place. An artificial harbor had been completed at Buffalo in 1821. The termination of the Erie canal, if that had anything to do with the fortunes of Dunkirk, had been decided in favor of Buffalo in 1823. Consequently Dunkirk did not prosper as was expected, and immediately previous to 1825 its population probably diminished, as it had then only about 50 inhabitants. The dullness existing previous to ISIS had returned. After a brief fit of prosperity Dunkirk seemed about to enter upon a period of depression. . At this time, fortuin- ately for its future, its possibilities attracted the attention of Walter Smith, a young merchant of Fredonia, remarkable for energy and business capacity. Besides the superior advantages of Dunkirk as a lake port, with its fine har- bor open to navigation two weeks earlier than Buffalo, there still lingered a belief that it might be necessary to extend the Erie canal to this point to gain the benefits of its harbor. Moreover a bill had been passed by the legisla- ture upon the personal application of the inhabitants of the southern tier of counties for the appointment of three commissioners " to explore and survey a state road from the Hudson river to some point upon Lake Erie," which it was nearly certain would be Dunkirk. In fact the surveyors employed by the state arrived at Dunkirk December 2.1, 1825, and completed their sur- vey at the foot of the wharf. This line was pronounced by them the best line to the lake. These considerations undoubtedly influenced Walter Smith to unite his destiny with that of Dunkirk. In that year he bought the undi- vided half of the property of the Dunkirk company for $10,000, and immed- iately turned his energy and business ability to building up the place. Although scarcely 25 years of age, his business capacity and judgment was that of one of mature years and long experience. He had broad views of business enterprises and was fitted mentally for large undertakings. He became at once the controlling power in Dunkirk, and soon the most influen- tial, public spirited and capable business man in the county. The writer well remembers when "Walter Smith and his business enterprise " was a familiar topic with the old settlers residing as far away as south of the Ridge, and years after his business career had closed in the county.
Walter Smith was born in Wethersfield, Conn., March 21, 1800. When 15 he was clerk in the store of Jacob Ten Eyck in Cazenovia, N. Y. He visited Fredonia in March, 1819, and resolved to settle there. He returned to Cazenovia, formed a partnership with Mr. Ten Eyck as "Walter Smith & Co."; Mr. Ten Eyck furnished the capital, and Mr. Smith returned to Fredonia in May with a stock of goods. "Todd & Douglas" engaged in business in Fredonia that year. "Joseph & Ralph Plumb," then in busi- ness there, failed in June, and Mr. Smith bought their store and ashery. His first year's sale of goods exceeded $20,000, and within twelve months
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he repaid Mr. Ten Eyck, and owned the business. This increased so that in the sixth year it amounted to $75,000. In the earlier years of his business he furnished supplies for all the U. S. forts and garrisons on the Great Lakes. Every article of produce so furnished was raised in this county except white beans. In 1826 Mr. Smith moved to Dunkirk. He "transferred to this theater of action his capital, his prestige, his remarkable talent for business and adventure. Daily stages for passengers and a wagon line for transpor- tation were soon established between Dunkirk and Warren, Pa. Communi- cation with Buffalo was opened by means of the ' Pioneer ; ' the few steam- boats that then made infrequent voyages to western points, where great cities have since grown up like exhalations, were induced to call at Dunkirk for the convenience of those who were westward bound, and a new impulse was given to the general trade, travel and improvement of the country. Mr. Smith's life was a masterly and persistent struggle, always against natural obstacles, often under adverse fortunes, to build up a commercial town at Dunkirk which would vie in importance with neighboring cities on the lake." (Hanson A. Risley.) Walter Smith died September 21, 1874. He was an able, unassuming, self-reliant and public spirited man. It has been said that 110 man ever lived in the state who was his superior in planning, forecasting or executing grand business operations. His life illustrated in a most remarkable manner the truth of the aphorism that "the post of honor is a private station." Through his influence and active efforts Daniel Garnsey was elected to Congress that he might advance the interests of Dunkirk. He himself never held but one office, and that the most humble known to the state, path master. He sought this in order to advance the interests of Dunkirk by obtaining the control of the improvement of the roads, and it is said that he spent $10,000 of his own money in this work. His children were Mary, who married John M. Barbour, late judge of the Superior Court of the city of New York ; Kate E. M. ; Walter C. ; Sarah and Cornelia.
In 1826 with George A. French, Walter Smith formed the mercantile house of " Smith & French," which continued prominently in business in Dunkirk for many years. Mr. French was son of Asa French, an early citi- zen of Pomfret. He resided many years in Dunkirk, was member of assem- bly for Chautauqua for three terms. His son, Francis French, was a prom- jnent and well-known citizen of Dunkirk.
"Van Buren & Co." established a new store here in 1825 or 1826. In 1827 they moved into the east store of the new brick block. In 1827 Leroy Farnham, a well-known business man of early years, was in trade.
In 1827 the expenditure was made of the $4,000 appropriated by Con- gress to improve the navigation of the harbor, and the building of a light- house was commenced. The stake for its site had been " stuck " on the 10th of July of the year before by Messrs. Garnsey and Dox, and the steamboat
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"Pioneer " was now making daily trips between Buffalo and Dunkirk. (See page 314.) Persons desiring to ship freight by the "Pioneer," were directed to apply to S. Thompson & Co., or Townsend & Coit, in . Buffalo, and to Smith & French at Dunkirk.
In 1828 Mosely W. Abell a leading and influential citizen of Fredonia, moved to Dunkirk. He was born at Bennington, Vt., February 24, 1781, and married Ruth Baldwin at Dorset, Vt., July 6, 1806. He came to Fre- donia in 1815 and started a public house on the site of "The Columbia." This hotel was for many years a favorite stopping place, and he was one of the best known and popular landlords of the county. He was one of the owners of the stage line between Buffalo and Eric, and long a postmaster at Fredonia. He was postmaster at Dunkirk, and county superintendent of the poor. He was one of the original members of the Dunkirk Baptist church, and for many years a deacon. He died in 1858. His daughter Mary An married the Rev. Timothy Stillman. Minerva married Walter Smith. Mr. Abell's sons were leadingbusiness men. Thomas B., Albert H. and George M. are deceased, Casper K., now of Dunkirk, married Jane Williams of James- town, and was an Union officer in the civil war.
Ebenezer Rumford Thompson, a college graduate, a teacher, and a scien- tific lecturer, came to Dunkirk in 1829, and became one of its prominent citizens. His father was a consin of Benjamin Thompson, the celebrated Count Rumford. Hannah Putnam, mother of E. R. Thompson, was a near relative of Gen. Israel Putnam of Revolutionary fame. Mr. Thompson formed a mercantile partnership on arriving here with Lysander B. Brown, and later with W. L. Carpenter founded the Chautauqua Whig. He was also an editor of the Dunkirk Beacon. E. R. Thompson was the father of Mrs. Dr. J. T. Williams and Mrs. W. W. Brigham.
Mr. Smith so stimulated the settlement of Dunkirk that by 1830 its pop- ulation is supposed to have increased from 50 to over 300. The defeat of the state road by the legislature of 1826 was the beginning of the agitation of the subject of a railroad through the southern tier of counties. Mr. Smith was one of tlie first projectors of the New York & Eric railroad, and the leading and most efficient man in the state to promote it. He spent the greater part of the winters of 1831 and 1832 in Albany, bringing the import- ance of the road to the attention of the legislature, and, largely through his efforts, the road was chartered April 24, 1832. Through his influence a clanse was incorporated in the charter requiring the running of a certain number of trains into Dunkirk daily, thus securing to it permanently and beyond contingency the benefit of the road. The wisdom of this provision is now apparent. There were then but 5,000 miles of railroad in the world, yet Mr. Smith saw, with a remarkable clearness of vision; the revolution in business that railroads were to make. At a meeting of the projectors he said
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"the day would come when cattle fattened in Indiana, Illinois and Ohio would be brought to the New York market." His prediction was derided as visionary.
Hon. Richard P. Marvin was also one of the first citizens of the county to appreciate the importance of a railroad, and one of the first to make efforts to accomplish it. He addressed a meeting held at Jamestown, September 20, 1831, of which Judge Elial T. Foote was chairman, at which it was resolved that application should be made to the legislature for a charter. This was the first publie movement made in reference to the New York & Erie railroad. It was through his efforts that the important provision was incorporated in its charter that the termination of the road at Lake Erie should be at some point between Cattarangus creek and the state line. The preliminary survey was made in 1832 by DeWitt Clinton, Jr. $1,000,000 of stock was required to be subscribed before the company could be organized. The subscription of William G. Buckner completed the amount and the com- pany was organized in July, 1833. Eleazer Lord, of New York, was chosen the first president, and William G. Buckner treasurer. Benjamin Wright was appointed to survey .the route of the road. He was assisted by James Seymour and Charles Ellett. The survey was begun and completed in 1834. In 1835 the company was reorganized and 40 miles put under contract.
By the census of 1835, Dunkirk contained a population of 628, 354 males, and 274 females. This was an increase, it was said, of nearly 100 per cent. since 1830. In 1833 Mr. Smith sold his half interest in the Dunkirk com- pany to New York city people at a large profit, and for less than half of the sum received he bought of the company the other half. In 1835 the Loder House was commenced by Walter Smith and so far completed as to be cov- , cred by a roof the next year. It was a brick hotel, and stood on the south side of Third street and the west side of Central avenne. It was the largest and most imposing building yet built in Dunkirk. Mr. Smith built the first gristmill in Dunkirk. He conducted the water from Canadaway creek three miles through a raceway. This year Walter Chester, an active, intelligent and prominent business man, moved to Dunkirk. He was born in Wethers- field, Conn., in Nov. 1804. He came to Sinclairville from Cazenovia and established a general store with Mr. Ten Eyck of Cazenovia as " Walter Chester & Co." He accumulated at Sinclairville $14,000. He came to Dun- kirk, invested largely in real estate, and lost all in the financial crash of 1837. He removed to Erie in 1843. Henry Severance came to Dunkirk in 1835. He was an intelligent and observing man. Many valuable contribu- tions preserving the history of Dunkirk, with which he was very familiar, were published in the Lake Shore Observer. He left two children : Harriett, Mrs. E. M. Lucas, and Emma H., principal of the intermediate department of school No. 2.
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By an act of the legislature of 1837 the Dunkirk Marine Insurance Com- pany was incorporated. The population and business interests of Dunkirk were so much increased, that it was found necessary to incorporate it as a village, which was done in 1837. In May, 1837, the Dunkirk Academy was incorporated. When Dunkirk was part of Dist. No. 9 of Pomfret, its first schoolhouse was built. It stood near the rear of the Lake Shore Bank. It was afterward fitted for a dwelling by Royal Tifft, a justice of the peace. A brick schoolhouse was built about 1827 and was used as an academy.
In 1836 an act had been passed authorizing a state loan to the N. V. & E. R. R. company of $3,000,000, and the comptroller issued state stock to that amount to aid in constructing the road. Hon. R. P. Marvin was a miei- ber of the legislature, and took an active part in securing the state aid. This large sum was expended, yet the road was not completed, and work had to be suspended. From Dunkirk east 14 miles was graded. Monuments of these wasted efforts may be now seen in the deep cuts, heavy fills, and stone cul- verts then made from Dunkirk to Arkwright. They mark the route and denote the heavy grades that would have been required to ascend the Ridge and reach the headwaters of the Conewango. About eight miles of rails were actually laid towards Mud lake.
The long delay that ensued in the completion of the Erie road disastrously affected Dunkirk, but a still greater calamity had already befallen it. The period immediately previous to 1837 had been one of great apparent prosper- ity, and business men had traded extensively upon credit. People of all classes had embarked in wild speculations, particularly in real estate. There was a great demand for corner lots and favorable sites. Cities were laid out along the lake wherever there was a harbor ; almost every village was affected. As Dunkirk was to be the termination of the Erie railroad, it was an unusually promising field for speculation. The crisis came in the spring of 1837. The mercantile failures in New York in March and April, amounted to over $100,000,000. In New Orleans failures to the amount of $27,000,000 took place in two days. All the banks of the country suspended specie pay- ment. Upon Dunkirk the calamity fell heaviest. "Ummerciful disaster followed fast, and followed faster." The village seemed prostrated beyond recovery. The credit of almost every business man was blasted. Walter Smith, upon whom its fortunes rested, was overwhelmed in the connon fate. From this period forward until the Erie road nearly approached completion but little effort was made towards a recovery. Its commerce nearly left it. The steamboats only stopped to "wood up." Long . piles of steamboat wood lined the road that led towards Fredonia (Central Avenue), and loaded the wharves of Walter Smith and John Beggs. At length the docks and ware- houses went out of repair. Their planks and timbers rotted. The dwellings of the village became dilapitated, the doors and windows of the vacant ones
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broken. For 13 years the unfinished Loder House was the home of bats and owls. Tottering old rookeries bordered Front and Center street, threatening the pedestrian. A sleepy air hung over the town, grass grew in some of the streets, and the village cows ran free in all. They ranged without restraint over the vacant unfenced lots to the adjacent woods, each one wearing a bell to denote its whereabouts. On summer nights they would visit Center street dock to lick salt from the barrels lying there, the discordant jangle of their bells disturbing the repose of the sleeping Dunkirkers. Washington Square was given up to geese and pigs. The highway between Dunkirk and Fre- donia was but little traveled, and was almost impassable some seasons of the year on account of the mud. 15 notices of mortgage foreclosure appear in the Fredonia Censor of Nov. 8, 1837, and 29 filled the columns of the Dun- kirk Beacon of March 30, 1841, evidences of the "reckoning " that followed the wild speculations of 1836. When the storm had blown over and it became certain that the Erie road was to be built, and as the work neared its consummation, evidences of life again appeared in Dunkirk and business was resumed. People began to gather there once more. There were signs of preparation and an air of expectation as if some great event was about to happen. A strong rivalry then, and for some years after the completion of the Erie road, existed between Fredonia and Dunkirk which has now worn away. This jealousy was without reason, for what prosperity came to one clearly benefited the other. Each place in those days had no high opinion of the other. Dunkirk was known in Fredonia as "Chadwick's Bay " and Fredonia in Dunkirk as " Pomfret Four-Corners." A Fredonian would some- times ask a Dunkirk man how much he thought the completion of the Erie road had raised the water in the harbor. Fredonia favored the building up of Van Buren in opposition to Dunkirk, notwithstanding Dunkirk harbor was the superior one in every respect. It favored the termination of the New York and Erie railroad at Van Buren, and, in 1836, incorporated a company for the construction of a railroad from Fredonia to Van Buren with a capital stock of $12,000. They also, in later years, favored Van Buren as a recrea- tion ground, although Point Gratiot is one of the most beautiful promon- tories on the lake.
Walter Smith, one of the donors of the park on Point Gratiot, more than half a century ago caused 50 bushels of hickory nuts to be planted there, from which has sprung a hardy growth of deep rooted timber calculated to withstand the powerful breezes of Lake Erie. "A more useful and considerate act can not well be imagined, an unselfish act of which only generations that should come long after him could reap the benefit. From this fine growth of trees " Hickoryhurst" derives its name. Of this place and Point Gratiot, Mrs. E. M. H. Edwards says : " A large share of the picturesque beauty of the natural scenery for which Chautauqua county is noted is in and
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around Dunkirk, where walks and drives in any direction disclose charming views in endless variety. Only a mile from the hotel is Point Gratiot park, the government lighthouse and 'Hickoryhurst', the latter a lovely summer settlement on the beach under the hickory trees that suggested its name. A walk, a drive, or a boat-ride to Hickoryhurst and around Point Gratiot and the lighthouse is one of the favorite excursions of Dunkirk people and their guests."
In 1838 when United States troops were sent up Lake Erie to break up the " Hunters Lodges " instituted to promote the cause of the Patriots, they stopped at Dunkirk, and sent a detachment against a " Lodge " at Fredonia, meanwhile using the original structure of the Hurlburt house as barracks.
The land of the Dunkirk Association was divided into shares among its owners in 1838. Of the proceeds, one fourth was to be given to the New York & Erie railroad, provided the road should be built in six years. The company failed in this, notwithstanding the time had been twice extended. When it became certain that the road would be completed, the proprietors of the land made a donation to the railroad company of 40 or 50 acres for a depot and other purposes. Mr. Smith, after he bought out the Townsend company, purchased for the association about 600 additional acres. After the railroad was completed the property was sold and the proceeds divided.
August 9, 1841, the steamboat Erie was burned in full view of Dunkirk. (See page 347.) This, the burning of the Washington in 1838, (see page 3.44,) and other disasters, were of deep interest to the people of Dunkirk. The winter of 1836 and 1837 was long and severe. The "Western Trader," a schooner loaded with corn and oats, bound down from Detroit in the fall of 1836, was frozen into the ice, drifted down, and lay for six weeks in a mass of ice off Dunkirk. She was watched with great interest from the shore, and came to be called " the ice ship." She and her crew were not loosened from their fetters of ice until nearly June 1837. In October, 1844, occurred one of the most terrific storms ever known on the lake. The water was raised to a remarkable height. Center and Buffalo street wharves were washed away, and the merchandise on them was scattered along the shore. The water went far up Buffalo street, and many buildings were washed from their foundations. The storm was even more fearful and destructive in Buffalo. In a storm in the fall of 1847, five steamboats were driven ashore between Erie and Buffalo.
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September 22, 1841, the Erie road was opened from Piermont to Goshen, and June 7, 1843, to Middletown. It 1845 the state released its lien on the road, and authorized the original stockholders to surrender two shares of old and receive one share of new. The road was opened to Port Jervis January 6, 1848, to Binghamton December 8, 1848, to Owego June 1, 1849, to Elmira October, 1849, to Corning January 1, 1850, and to Dunkirk May 14, 1851.
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The route east from Dunkirk ascended the ridge at a different point and at lighter grade than the abandoned route. This great enterprise, which Dun- kirk had so anxiously awaited through long years of doubt and despondency, was at last consummated, and a great highway of travel opened from the ocean to Lake Erie. It was the longest railroad in the world. A great cel- ebration which has never been equalled by anything of the kind in Chau- tauqua county was held in Dunkirk to commemorate the event.
The day was auspicions, many thousands were attracted by the fame of the expected guests, and the novelty of the anticipated spectacle. The village of Dunkirk presented a gay appear- ance, flags and streamers decorated hotels and private houses. On the depot were the flags of three nations ; the stars and stripes gracefully floating above the tri-color of the French repub- lic and the red cross of St. George. The Queen City arrived from Buffalo, and soon after the Niagara, the Empire State, the Empire, the Key Stone State, and the U. S. S. Michigan in succession, took positions in the harbor. Governor Hunt and suite arrived from Buffalo on one of the boats, and received his friends at the American hotel. The train from New York arrived about 4, when the locomotive " Dunkirk " came in as a pioneer, followed, soon after, by the long expected " iron horse," from New York city, amid the ringing of bells and shouts of thon- sands. The train of twelve passenger cars, bearing a long row of banners which had been pre- sented along the line, brought President Fillmore; Daniel Webster, secretary of state; Wmn. A. Graham, secretary of the navy ; Nathan K. Hall, postmaster-general ; John J. Crittenden, attor- ney-general ; Senators Seward and Fish ; Daniel S. Dickinson ; Ex-Gov. Marcy ; Senator Doug- las, of Ill .: Christopher Morgan, secretary of state of New York, and others. After the ladies had presented an elegant banner to the president and directors of the road, a procession was formed which proceeded through the village, and back to the depot, where refreshments were provided. The president, invited guests, and directors repaired to the Loder House, where a sumptuous collation was served. President Fillmore was then introduced to the guests, congrat- ed them on the completion of the road, and complimented the president and directors for their exertions in behalf of the road. He was followed by Benjamin Loder, president of the company, who gave a history of the road, stating that the charter had been changed some twelve times, and that the road, 445'2 miles in length, was the longest ever built under one charter in the world. Mr. Crittenden said " he was surprised at what had been accomplished. He had heard something of it, but had previously had no accurate idea of the vast extent of the road. ' The French eagle,' said Napoleon, ' had flown from spire to spire, till it rested on Notre Dame;' but he ( Mr. C. i had been in a car that outdid the French eagle. They had been flying, not from spire to spire, but from mountain top to mountain top. The officers of the road were benefactors of the state. Our country was destined to progress. In 50 years there would be a population of 100,000,000." The speaking was continued until a late hour, by Governor Hunt, Senators Sew- ard and Dickinson, and others. Outside the house President Fillmore was introduced by Hon. Geo. W. Patterson to the multitude, and briefly addressed them in eulogy of the road and the occasion. He was followed by Governor Hunt and Secretary Graham. They were succeeded by Joseph Hoxie, of New York. He chained the audience for some time by a flow of humor ; but the cry was for " Webster," and no excuse would be taken. Mr. Webster at last appeared, fatigued and care-worn, but spoke at length on the benefit of the work, and in behalf of the Union. The festivities were closed by a brilliant display of fireworks, bonfires, etc., while the windows of many dwellings were illuminated. There were probably 15,000 people assembled.
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