USA > New York > Westchester County > History of Westchester county : New York, including Morrisania, Kings Bridge, and West Farms, which have been annexed to New York City, Vol. I > Part 119
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the alphabet and numerals, following them with a Scriptural text or verse of a metrical psalm. Then the fancy was let loose ou birds, beasts and trees. Most of the old families possessed framed pieces of embroidery, the handiwork of female ancestors, some of which can stand comparison with the Kensington productions of this day. Flounces and trimmings for aprons, worked with delicately tinted silks on muslins, were common. The hand painting of strips of trimming for dresses is not a modern art. I have several yards of fine muslin painted in the early days with full-blown thistles in the appropriate colors. Fringe looms were in use and cottou and silk fringe was woven. The former was used for the fine dimity wrappers worn in the morning. These garments were trimmed with cotton inserting and a cotton cord and tassels confined them at the waist. Chintz, usually of East India manufacture, with vivid colors on a white ground, was in vogue, and made up into a sack and petticoat. Large and showy patterus of flowers aud buds prevailed.
"For full dress, brocades and moire antique were worn. The robe of a bride in 1748 was of moire an- tique with a long train, the sleeves coming to the elbow. The bosom and sleeves were trimmed with lace, headed by a narrow pinked ruffle of the silk. The exquisitely quilted petticoat came from Holland, as did the clocked silk stockings, a present to the bride. Canton crape, levantine, lutestring silk and other silks were worn by the ladies. Leno, a musliu with a very open mesh, was used for trimming. Dainty half handkerchiefs, with narrow embroidered borders of gold or silver thread, were worn as fichus. Powder was in general use and the hair was dressed on higli rolls in front and tied behind in a sort of bag- shaped queue. Aprons much trimmed and embroid- ered were a part of full dress, aud hoops were also in vogue. Slippers of silk and kid had immensely high heels, sloping to the instep, and it is a marvel how the wearers balanced themselves. Fortunately, the dance they favored was the slow and stately Minuet. Necklaces were mostly made of heavy gold beads, plain or carved. Fans were very large and handsome. Here and there in old families still are seen very beautiful chatelaines, from which hung the watch and seals.
" When calves were killed for family use, the skins were tanned and kept until the peripatetic shoemaker, who traveled through the country, made his annual visit, when he halted long enough to make shoes for the elders, the children and the servants. The tail- oress, too, made yearly or semi-yearly visits and un- dertook to turn the homespun cloth into garments. The coming of the mantua-maker, with her European patterns, created a lively stir among the matrons and maidens. Sewing in those days was done with fine linen thread, that even yet defies time and wear to destroy it."
Among the Dutch, the opulent burghers compared
1 The Assembly of New York resolved September 9, 1730, that a tax of three shillings be laid " on every inhabitant, resident or sojourner, young or old, within the colony, that wears a wig or peruke made of human or horse hair mixed, by whatever denomination the same may be distinguished."-" Histor. Mag." vol. ii., No. 12, December, 1878.
18 0 7
18234
18.15.
14.76
18.04
48164
1825
463
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
to their wives and daughters as the peacock does to the hen. The womeu's dress was sober, but the men's many coats, their silk and velvet small-clothes, their silver buttons 1 and fine linen stood for a good deal of money in cach individual instance. The English colonial gentlemeu did not stint themselves, but kept as close to the models of the London tailors as time and distance would permit. Lacking any other ex- emplar for such display, they could find one in the equipments of the British officers stationed in New York. Captain Cæsar Carter, who was stationed there in 1692, was the envied possessor of a wardrobe which cost nearly a thousand dollars outside of his military accoutrements. Jacques Cosseau, a mer- chant who was a bankrupt before his death, in 1682, possessed but three old coats, the same number of old shirts, two pair of worn-out breeches and one neck- cloth ; but Dr. Jacob De Lange, a prosperous profes- sional gentlemau, rejoiced in this sort of wardrobe,-
Valuation.
£ 8. d.
One gros. grained cloak, lined with silk. .
2 10 0
One black broad cloth coat ..
1 10
One black broad cloth suit .. . 1 5 0
One colored serge snit (the new snit with silver buttons) 5 0
0
One colored cloth waistcoat, with silver buttons. .
. 1
4
Three silk drawers
0
O
Two calico drawers.
0
2
6
Three white drawers.
C
G
O
4 0 Two silk night caps .. 0
One pair yellow hand gloves with black silk fringe . . 0 14
0
Five pair of white calico stockings C
9
0
One pair black worsted stockings 0
45
0
One coat lined with red serge 1
15
0
Two old coats. 1
10
0
One fine black hat, one old gray hat, one black hat. . . 1
0
One black gros-grained suit . 1 17 0
Mrs. De Lange was a fashionable lady, well-known to the families along the Hudson in 1685. Here is the appraisement of her costumes and their accessories :
Valuation.
£ 8. d.
One under petticoat, with a body red-bay.
0 17 0
One under petticoat, scarlet. .
1 15 0
One red cloth petticoat, with black lace.
15 0
One striped stuff petticoat
1
8 0
One colored drugget petticoat, with red lining .. 16
0
One colored drugget petticoat, with gray lining
16
0
One do do
do
do 6 0
One do do
do
white lining. 10 0
One do do
do
do . 0 8
0
One do do do
do with pointed
0
S 0
One black silk petticoat, with ash gray silk lining . 0
0
One black pottofoo petticoat, with black silk lining. . 2 15 0
5
8
0
Two velvet chairs with fine silver lace . 1
0
0
One cupboard or case of French nut wood. 20
0 0
One round table. 2
0 0
One square table 10
0
0
One cabinet.
6
0
0
Thirteen pictures .
9
10
0
One great looking-glass
6
0 1
One bedstead, two beds and furniture.
25
0 0
Ten pieces of china dishes or porcelain .
4 0
0
Five alabaster images.
0 15
0
One piece of tapestry work, for twelve cushions . 3 12
0
One flowered tabby chimney clotlı. 0 12
0
1 Silver buttons and buckles marked every gentleman's costume. The plate silver buttons, made of Spanish dollars and smaller coins, which flourished in England in the days of Queen Anne, were worn in Amer- ica. All fulldress for gentlemen required knee and shoe-buckles, which were of silver or, for great occasions, of paste, artistically set in blue enamel and gold, and costing one hundred dollars the pair. The busi- ness of the dealer in buckles was as important as that of the hair-dresser or the maker of stays.
€ 8. d.
Three flowered calico samare.
2 17 0
Three calico night gowns, two tlowered, one red. .0 7 0
One silk waistcoat, one red calico waistcoat .0 14 0
One pair bodice . 4 0
Five pair white cotton stockings 0
9 0
Three black love-hoods .0
5 0
One white love-hood. 0
One black silk erape samare, with a tucker 1
10
0
Two pair sleeves, with great lace. . 1
3
G
Four cornet caps, with lace, one without lace. . 3
0
One black silk rain clotlı .. .0
10 0
One yellow love-hood 10
0
One black plush mask. .0
1
6
One embroidered purse with a silver bugle and chain to the girdle, a silver hook and eye .. 1
4 0
Five small East India boxes 0
1 6
Five hair curlings. 0
7 0
Four yellow love drowlas 0
2 0
Jewelry.
One silver thread wrought small trunk. 3 0 0
wherein are the following :
One pair black pendants, with gold hooks 0 10 0
One gold boat, wherein thirteen diamonds to one white coral chain . 16
0 0
One pair gold stucks or pendants, in each ten dia-
0
0
Two diamond rings. 2.4 0 0
One gold ring, with a clap beck .. 12 0
One gold ring, or hoop, bound round with diamonds . 2 10 0
Mr. Samuel Leete, clerk of the Court of Mayor and Aldermen in 1679, who is styled "a literary gentle- man," was worth £23 10s. in garments and furniture. Cornelius Steenwyck, " one of the principal merchants and leading citizens of New Amsterdam," who died in 1686, kept the following enviable total of chattels in the "great chamber " of his house :
Valuation.
€ s. d.
Plate of all kinds, 723 ounces
216
0 0
Different species of money.
. 300
0 0
49 Gold chain, gold metal, gold child's whistle 0 0
One cloth coat, silver buttons.
4 15 0
One stuff coat, silver plate buttons
4
0 0
One black coat and breeches 2
0
0
One pair cloth breeches
0
10
0
One cloth coat, gimp buttons
2 10 0
One black cloth coat.
2 10 0
3 One black velvet coat, old . 0
0
One colored stuff coat and breeches.
1 10
0
1 One silk coat, breeches and doublet . 5
6
0
One old velvet waistcoat, with silver lace. 0
15
0
2 One old coat, silver plate buttons . 3
5 0
1 One buff coat and silk sleeves. 10
0
One yellow silk scarf, with silver fringes
1
5
0
One light-colored gros green cloak.
1
0
0
One dark-colored gros green cloak, with lining . 2
5
0
One cloth-colored cloak, with lining of bay, with wrought silver buttons. . 2
10
0
Twelve rush leather chairs .
One black pottofoo petticoat, with taffeta lining. . 1 13 0
One black silk potoso-a-samare, with lace . 3 0 0
One black tartanel samare, with a tucker. 1 10 0
0
One silver cloth breeches and doublet. 0
0
Six pieces of clothes, as coats, breeches and donblets 2
lace .
One pair gray worsted stockings
monds . 25
2 6
464
HISTORY OF WESTCHESTER COUNTY.
€ s. d.
One pair flowered tabby curtains for windows.
0 4 0
One dressing-box .
1 10
0
One small picture .
0
8
0
One ivory compass.
0
6
0
A parcel of silver lace .
2
12
0
Four diaper table-cloths.
3
0
0
Two small ditto.
0
12
0
Two small ditto, old.
0
8
Seventeen napkins
0
17 0
One carpet .
2
0
0
It is not the easiest of tasks to follow up the evolu- tions of dress as styles grew into extravagance up to the last quarter of the eighteenth century. When peacock gorgeousness prevailed, men and women vied with each other in the costliness of their costumes, and sartorial sobriety was left to some families of un-
HEAD-DRESS Of a Lady of Fashion in 1776.
mixed Dutch blood. The price of good cloth, prior to the Revolution, being a guinea a yard, gentlemen of a frugal disposition would have a coat turned when it had lost its original freshness, so as to make it do duty twice as long. After that it went to the servant. Mechanics, workingmen and country people wore leather breeches, leather aprons and baize vests of red or green. The dress of a runaway apprentice is described in an advertisement of 1753 : " A blue coat with black mohair buttons, blue lapelled waist-coat, the lapells lined with black velvet, a pair of black leather breeches with solid silver buttons and a brown wig."
To the cumbrous hoops, which came into fashion after the "wide skirts" of the ladies, succeeded the " bishop," a half-circular pillow stuffed with horse-
hair and supposed to give more natural elegance to the figure. This, in turn, was superseded by the "queue de Paris," an abridged edition of the " bishop," and not unlike the " bustle" of our day. The press, during all this time, tricd in vain to exercise its nas- cent power by denouncing folly. An editor gives vent to his indignation iu the following outburst (1754) : "These foreign invaders first made their attack upon the stays, so as to diminish them half down the waist, exposing the breast and shoulders. Next to the caps; cut off the flappets and tabs, bored and pad- locked the ears. Next came the wide hoops aud French pocket-holes; and, last of all, have lately shortened the rear, so that the heels and ancles are exposed, even to the very gusset and clock ! O, shame ! shame !" The indignant editor should have reflected that when stockings are made of a "lively green" color, with " great red clocks," like the pair worn by a very worthy lady of that period on her wedding- day, it was intended, probably, that they should be seen, as high, at least, as the gusset and clock. Ladies' shoes were of calf-skin, with a white baud of sheep-skin attached to the top. This was a neat dress shoe.
In the matter of bonnets and hats, the shapes, for a long time, were far from graceful. The prettiest was the "skimmer" hat, made of some shining mater- ial like silver tinsel, with a flat crown and large brim ; tlie " horse-hair" bonnet was very light, but stiff; the bath-bonnet, made upon the principle of the mod- ern gentleman's crush-hat,-one could sit on it,-was more becoming than the mush-melon bonnet, ribbed and stiff-looking, which was in use just before the Revolution ; the whalebone bonnet was an improve- ment upon the last-named; it was stiffened only in frout. The calash bonnet was made of green silk and so constructed that it could be folded back like the top of a calash or gig when the wearer went in- doors. The " wagon " was a black silk affair with the shape of a wagon-top, and, at first, used exclusively by the Quaker ladies. However, as it was, from its shape, an excellent protection against the sun's rays, many ladies in the country adopted it, making it of some light material trimmed with gay ribbons. The only straw bonnet mentioned during a long period, was the " bee-hive," worn by old ladies. A large, flat, white beaver was once worn, with scarcely any crown, and fastened under the chin by two strings. The only kind of wrap used by the ladies was the loose cloak which, with slight alterations in the cut, went by the names of roquelaure, capu- chin and cardinal. After the Revolution the in- fluence of French fashions was felt throughout the republic. American ladies wore the limp-skirted, short-waisted dress of the dames du Directoire about the time that their husbands and beaux, having dis- carded the long-cherished cue, wore their hair close- cropped, à la Brutus.
Parasols came in fashion very late; so with umbrel-
465
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
. las. Men wore " rain coats," and women "camblets," for protection against the weather. Watson says the first umbrellas were carried by British officers, and were deemed effeminate by the people. Yet, in an old advertisement of 1769, a milliner proposes, in addition to her regular modish business, to "cover umbrellas in the neatest manner ;" that useful article must have become common already at that time. Ladies careful of their complexion at one period wore a black velvet mask in winter, "with a silver month-piece to keep it on by retaining in the mouth." Rather an inconvenient arrangement and one which compelled silence. The earliest, kind of watches worn in the colony had cases of shagreen, turtle shell or pinchbeck. After that the finest gentleman was con- tent to carry a silver watch. The first gold watches were an article of jewelry, becoming only to wealthy and fashionable ladies. Old gentlemen, at the close of the last century, carried a tall, gold-headed cane, and, generally, a gold snuff box, from which they were ever ready to offer a sociable pinch to an acquaint- ance. They held on to the very last against the abolishment of the cue or pig-tail, and clung to the large silver buttons, which were once a mark of wealth and dignity. These buttons were often made of coins-quarter-dollars being used for the coat and "eleven penny bits" for the vest and breeches. Spectacles were rarcly used, even by the aged ; a young man or woman wearing glasses was something unheard of; our fathers had keener and stronger eyes than we.
The Revolution brought about a greater simplicity of manners ; the "coarse" element came in after- wards when the " power of money " began to be felt. The Duke de la Rochefoucauld Liancourt, writing about the social life of the Americans some time after the Revolution, remarks : " Luxury is very high there, especially at New York and Philadelphia, and makes a dangerous progress every year. . . . There are some persons who surpass their neighbors, already too far advanced, in luxury ; these injure the manners of the country. ... " He adds that luxury is much less prev- alent in the country towns, but is continually in- creasing, and often out of proportion with wealth.
The same writer summarizes his views in the fol- lowing two paragraphs-the first is less a criticism than a correct explanation of the absence of an idlc, highly refined society ; the second, a just homage paid the American people and a prophetic view of the future greatness of our country :
" An European coming into the new world, and bringing with him the need of the usage of the politer attentions of that which he has quitted ; he, above all, who brings with him the need of what we call in France the charms of society, which we know so well how to appreciate, of which we know how to participate, and which affords us so many moments of happiness, such a man will not find himself satisfied in America, and his recollections will be continually sprinkling his
life with melancholy. He cannot, if his heart has an occasion for a friend, hope to find there the sweetness of a constant and avowed friendship. The inhabitants of the United States have been hitherto too much en- gaged in their respective occupations for the entice- ments of polished society to be able to withdraw their attention from them ; they have not leisure to conse- crate to friendship.
"Such an European ought to have for a long time for- gotten Europe in order to live quite happy in America. But if he can readily lose the remembrance of it, or take with him there the dearest objects of his affection, he will lead in America a happy and tranquil life. He will there enjoy the blessing of liberty in the great- est extent which it is possible to desire in any polished country. He will see himself with an active people,
THOMAS SULLY.
easy in their circumstances, and happy. Every day will bring him to observe a new progress of this new country. He will see it every day take a step toward that strength and greatness to which it is called; towards that real independence which is for a nation the result of having the means of satisfying itself."
The wealthy people of the province were liberal patrons of art. Very many of them had been edu- cated in the European schools, and in the vast col- lections of the Old World had learned to know a good painting, a meritorious marble, a fine bit of porcelain or glass, or anything commendable in the way of de- coration and bric-a-brac. They encouraged native genius and were tolerant of its crudities. In the manor-houses along the Hudson were works of John Trumbull, Charles Wilson Peale, Gilbert Stuart,
1
466
HISTORY OF WESTCHESTER COUNTY.
Thomas Sully, Washington Allston and other Ameri- can painters. The social atmosphere of these great houses possessed a warmth and refinement that were favorable to artistic appreciation. Painters were wel- come guests within their walls. Peale made excur- sions into this region, and Sully visited the home of Governor Daniel D. Tompkins to obtain sittings for the admirable portrait which he produced of the statesman.
The wealthy people kept large amounts of money in their houses. In 1774 a lady, who died in New York, owned estates in Westchester County, and the
executor's inventory showed that she had these sums of cash on hand :
£. 8. d.
Paper money, amongst which are some Jersey notes calcu- lated at the old rate 3988 1
1 Bunch gold, Amount
1012 4
7
1 Bunch gold . . . 191 7
4 Bags qt. 500 dollars each or 2000
1 Do. 288. 1 Do. 280 1 Do. 113. 2681 dollars 1072
1 Bag small silver €72 4s. Od . .
1 Do. £60. 1 Do. £36. 1 Do. £20.
1 Do. £10 128. 4d 198 16
1 Bag qt. 730 pistareans
1 Bag 125 . 69
13 9
1 Bag qt. 112 oz. clipt silver calculated at 91 oz . 50
2 Bags coppers 13
1 Wedge of gold 2 oz. 18 dw, 16 grs
Total 6593 19 8 3 -- -.
How amply furnished were the old-time houses is shown in the subjoined inventory of property removed
in 1776 from a house in the Neutral Ground of W est- chester County :
50 liuen sheets. 2 stew pans.
11 damask table cloths. 2 coffee pots.
21 homespun cloths. 9 wooden plates.
4 breakfast cloths.
6 bowls.
6 coverlids.
1 --
12 damask napkins.
56 homespun napkins.
2 toasters.
9 towels.
6 towels.
29 pillow cases.
1 linen table cloth.
1 fiue sheet.
5 blue and white window cur- tains.
5 window curtains.
9 blankets.
1 rug.
3 glasses with black.
4 small sconces.
3 gilt glasses.
10 small gilt pictures.
1 mahogany clock.
3 oval pictures.
1 oval old lady's fan.
1 large Dutch cupboard.
1 large not sett up.
1 mahogany table.
2 round mahogany tables.
1 round stand.
1 square tea table.
1 boilsted, small, witli drawers.
1 copper tea kitchen and stand.
1 old japanned tea table.
1 mahogany dining table.
1 large boilsted table.
2 square tables.
1 fine screen.
13 large painted pictures
12 small painted pictures.
1 large cedar chest.
8 pairs haudirons.
1 old desk.
1 old painted cupboard.
1 marble, mortar and kettle.
2 pair brass scales and weights.
2 copper pye pans.
4 sauce pans.
4 copper kettles.
2 tea kettles.
2 skillets.
1 warming pan.
1 apple roaster.
3 skimmers.
1 cheese toaster.
1 pewter coffee kettle.
1 pewter tea pot.
27 pewter dishes.
11 pewter plates,
12 pewter soup plates.
6 pewter butter plates.
3 pewter mugs.
2 pewter salons.
5 pewter basons.
6 pewter spoons.
3 pewter measures.
1 small brass kettle.
2 brass ladles.
4 puffet pans (Note-Puffet was a light cake.)
6 - plates.
6 spoons. An old fashioned - of plate.
2 milk pots.
1 chafing dislı.
15 tea spoons.
4 brass kettles.
2 jiggin irons.
1 baking pot.
2 brass mortars.
1 lime squeezer.
2 dripping pans.
1 ladle.
2 fleslı forks.
1 cake pan. 2
1 gridiron.
2 waffe irons.
1 cullander.
6 brass candlesticks.
1 snuffers and stand.
2 pairs kitchen hand irons.
7 irou pots.
1 laud skillet.
1 sleep shears.
3 tubs.
4 pails.
3 pairs branches.
3 chains.
12 caudle moulds.
8 smoothing irons.
47 pattee pans.
3 tea boards.
15 black leather bottom chairs.
9 straw bottom chairs.
4 milk tubs.
1 brass plate warmer.
1 brass stand.
1 wine cooler.
1 stone milk pot.
4 - - -.
1 lace table cloth, cover and sheet.
7 feather beds.
1 sett green bed curtains with ring.
1 sett red and white calico cur- tains.
blue bed curtaius.
1 red silk bedquilt.
2 desks.
1 book case.
2 chests drawers.
5 featlier beds.
1 picture.
3 pairs liand irons.
1 toilet and looking glass.
1 mahogany bedstead with two setts rods. 1 sett lath.
18 silver table spoons.
1 silver soup spoon.
2 castors.
2 mugs. 3 --
4 caudlesticks.
6 salt cellars.
1 sett
1 eased bowl.
8
0
0 0
4
8
8 10
4
3 pudding dishes.
1 copper fish kettle.
1 tea pot.
2 tea tongs.
1 haug irou.
467
MANNERS AND CUSTOMS.
1 tin case.
3 sheep.
1 screen.
3 lambs.
2 carpets.
3 hogs.
1 large stecl gray horse.
2 waffel.
1 mare.
Settee and twelve chairs.
1 young mare.
1 young utare with foal.
14 cows.
1 horse.
5 yearlings.
" hogs and pigs.
13 sheep.
20 horses.
13 lambs (lcft on the way tired).
There was, however, one class of settlers as sharply distinguished in their social life as in their language and nativity from the Dutch and English. 'These were the worthy and admirable Huguenots, the French Protestant exiles, who came into the county so early in its history and gave to their settlement the name of New Rochelle, in memory of the ancient French eity which had been the scene of their most lustrous glory and most poignant suffering.1 Mainly well- educated men and women, skilled artisans and good citizens, no acquisition to the colony was more valua- ble. Of the first house which they built, Rev. L. J. Coutant has given a graphic description. It was erected upon the point now known as Hudson's Park. Mr. Coutant writes,-
"During the pleasant weather of the autumnal mouths (circa 1690), a house was built on Bonnefoy's Point,-not a very commodious one, nor yet very elegant iu its architectural design. An excavation was made in the earth to the depth of five or six feet, and faced around with stones, after the manner of building cellar-walls at the present day, preparatory to the erection of the superstructure. On these stone walls were placed logs, in successivo tiers, until a desirable height was reached sufficient to make one story above ground and a large garret for a sleeping apart- ment. The whole was roofed over with long grass, hound firmly on to the rafters with strong cords, interlaced with poles running lengthwise of the roof ; so that this primitive dwelling, with the exception of its cellar-walls, or ground-work, was nothing more or less than a thatched log house. The work of building this edifice was accomplished by the voluntary and uuited labor of the whole colony-men and women hoth doing what they could to hasten its completion.
" Incidents peculiarly interesting cluster around this primitive cottage. It was a joint-stock possession-a common property, in which all had an interest-a sort of headquarters, a public house indeed, to which the settlers nightly resorted for social intercourse or recreation when the toils and adventures of the day were over. On the Sabbath it was the temple whither the settlers went up to worship and listen to the religious instructions of the pious Bonrepas, their heloved pastor, and to join in the raptures inspired hy the singing of Marot's hymns. It is surprising to see what expedieuts necessity will adopt ; into how narrow a compass It will compress the proprietics of life, both civil and religious; how few and simple are the requirements of society and genuine religion, when stripped of the conventional superfluities bestowed by pride and wealth.
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