A history of Cleveland, Ohio, Volume I, Part 60

Author: Orth, Samuel Peter, 1873-1922; Clarke, S.J., publishing company
Publication date: 1910
Publisher: Chicago-Cleveland : The S.J. Clarke Publishing Co.
Number of Pages: 1262

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for more than one, possibly two generations, to "modernize" and abort these dig- nified and venerable "homes" every line of which was associated with all that word implies ; interwoven with the lives of their occupants.

Fortunately the march of business has already relegated some of these improve- ments (?) to oblivion. And if the "skyscraper" does not fully satisfy the ideal of artistic expression, it usually expresses the purpose it is intended to serve and, in many instances, shows a knowledge of the principles of design and, so far as carefully studied and consistent detail can, an effort to, as far as possible, soften the blow it gives the sensitive beholder.

But to resume again the slender thread of history.

In 1828-9 Trinity corporation erected the first house of worship in the village although the church had been organized in 1817. This church building was of frame construction but was distinctly gothic as to its details. It was located at the corner of St. Clair and Seneca (West Second) street.

The first Presbyterian church to be erected was that of the First Presbyterian society, upon the lot still occupied as its church home at the northwest corner of the public square and Ontario street. This building was erected in 1834. The design was Georgian, the front being relieved by pilasters and the roof of medium pitch being crowned with a belfry. This church being the first to be built of stone, was called the Stone church and later the "Old Stone church," which name it is and has been known by for many years.

The first Baptist organization built in 1835 a brick church, fifty-five by eighty feet, located at the corner of Seneca (West Third) and Champlain streets, said to have been in the "tuscan" style. Its "tower" contained a town clock and a very large bell. The interior is said to have been "plain but magnificent" and in the Doric style. Probably this building was the most pretentious of any erected up to this time, with the possible exception of the second court- house, built in 1828. It was placed in the southwest quarter of the square, being somewhat elevated above the street. It was of the prevalent colonial type, its walls of brick being relieved by pilasters, frieze and cornice of the Doric order, surmounted by a pediment or low pitched gable, above which rose a belfry deco- rated with columns of the Ionic order, and having a domical roof with lantern at apex.

Four years later a jail was built in the rear of the courthouse, fronting upon Champlain street. It was a perfectly plain, two story building of stone.

During these years many residences were built, but apparently none of them very pretentious. The public square seems to have been an attractive locality and in the year 1824 Leonard Case built a modest home at the northeast corner of Superior street, and a frame office building in the rear facing upon the square.

Later he sold this property to the United States government for a postoffice site. An old print of the public square in 1833 shows a commodious residence at the northeast corner of Ontario street, where the Society for Savings building now stands. This home was built by Mr. N. E. Critttenden, was of rough stone and of colonial type. It was two stories with basement and attic, having gables at its ends and dormer windows in the front slope of roof. With cornices, win-

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dow frames, portico, etc., painted white, and green blinds, it presented a very attractive but dignified appearance.1

At the southeast corner of Superior street and the square stood the Lemen cottage, a story and a half frame house, with a piazza along the entire west front.

Superior street, which up to 1865 extended only to Erie (East Ninth) street, was rapidly built up with attractive and more or less pretentious residences, as was also the corresponding section of Euclid avenue. Many of the substantial men of Cleveland had their homes within this section during the period between 1830 and 1870, though others located at considerable distances from the business center, upon St. Clair, Euclid, Woodland avenue, and upon the west side.

The residence of T. P. May, one of the city's early merchants, was located upon Erie street facing Superior street, and was torn down in 1865 to open Su- perior street to the eastward. This house was of brick with heavy woodwork, painted entirely white, with green blinds. It is typical of a class of unpretentious but comfortably ample homes of the period. It was probably built about 1840.

The first home of Hon. Harvey Rice was built about the same time. It was located on Woodland avenue about a mile and one half south of the public square, there being quite a colony of the older residents who built homes in that locality, most of them of ample size and all of them of the colonial types.

The home of Erastus Gaylord on Woodland avenue, was built by Dr. David Long about 1836 and sold to Mr. Gaylord, who moved into it in 1846, and lived in it until his death. This house was of stone.

The home of Governor Wood was several miles west of the city, upon what was then known as the Ridge road, which followed the shore of the lake, though at a distance of several hundred feet.

Cleveland having been incorporated as a city in 1836, assumed new dignity and importance ; and improvements both public and private, but more especially the latter were made more and more generously and with greater regard for their permanence and the social position of their owners. Unfortunately nearly all of the more important and interesting buildings of this period of the city's early growth have succumbed to the march of progress and improvement and very few records of these buildings remain. The building that was for many years the home of the Union club was the residence of Hon. George B. Senter, mayor of Cleveland in the year 1859-60.

The front of this building received very little change and is typical of many homes that graced Euclid avenue, Superior, and other important streets.

Of these one of the best, and, leaving the inappropriateness of massive Ionic columns being constructed of wood out of consideration, the home of Stillman Witt at the corner of Euclid avenue and Muirson street was an excellent specimen of the type; unfortunately no picture of this house, which was remodeled in 1875, can be found.

Of the men who were responsible for the designs of the buildings of all these earlier years scarcely a trace can be found.

The name of Charles W. Heard, who as the firm of Heard & Son was the architect of the building occupied by the city as its city hall at present, and for

1 It stood until removed to make way for the Society for Savings building and for some years before was occupied as offices.

Centennial Arch, 1896

Residence of Myron T. Herrick

Residence of M. A. Hanna

Residence of Charles F. Brush

Residence of W. L. Rice

New Union Club

Clark Hall College for Women

TYPES OF MODERN ARCHITECTURE

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HISTORY OF CLEVELAND

more than twenty-five years past, appears in the city directory for 1856 as asso- ciated in the firm of Heard & Porter, architects, and is mentioned in the first di- rectory of Cleveland, 1837, as a carpenter. He was also associated with Walter Blythe in the early '70s, and must have had a very large part in determining the form and details of many of the buildings of early Cleveland.

J. M. Blackburn's name is given in the directory of 1856 as architect and builder. He continued to practice as an architect until about the time of his death, which was near 1890.

Of all these designers of the early days, perhaps none was better qualified to bear the title of architect than J. J. Husband who, among other buildings was architect of the present, or third courthouse, as it was before the two upper stories were added, and of the Euclid avenue Presbyterian church, at the corner of Euclid and Brownell (East Fourteenth) street.

Of the buildings erected during the two decades following the close of the war little can be said in their praise. Many of these years were years of consid- erable activity and here and there a building indicated more than ordinary care and understanding upon the part of its designer. Among these may be mentioned the National Bank building at the northeast corner of Superior and Water streets still standing, and the first home of the Society for Savings on the public square, torn down to make way for the Chamber of Commerce. Both of these were among the earlier work of Joseph Ireland and were erected in or near the year 1870.

The sheriff's residence and jail by Walter Blythe, erected in 1876-7 were far above the average of that time. But probably the structures not deserving of censure erected during the period indicated could be counted upon the fingers of one hand.

The World's Centennial exposition at Philadelphia in 1876 gave an impetus to art of all kinds, but especially to industrial and the building arts, all over the country. Added to this there was a very powerful influence due to the starting of several architectural periodicals and the publication of the designs of a num- ber of the eastern architects who had recently studied abroad and brought to this country the inspiration that can only be found where architecture has been the growth of centuries.

These influences fell into the mass of the younger, growing generation of arch- itects and draughtsmen, like the lump of leaven of old, and in the uplift that was felt all over the country Cleveland had its share.

Results were by no means instantaneous and the desire to throw off fetters and be original produced many incongruities. Indeed the development was very slow for the end is not yet. But here and there a building has been produced that is satisfying and will continue to be, so long as it stands; because it fulfills every practical and aesthetic requirement.

Along with the inspiration that was affecting the profession as individuals arose a desire for closer relationship and intercourse, and as early as the year 1878 an attempt at organization was made, but it was not until 1880 or '81 that an architectural society was actually formed with eight charter members and called the Cleveland Architectural club. This society has had a continuous existence since its formation but was reorganized April 7, 1887, as a chapter of The

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American Institute of Architects and has since that time, borne the name of the Cleveland Chapter American Institute of Architects.

The society has never included within its membership a large percen- tage of the practicing architects of Cleveland, but has had all of the most prom- inent men and has at all times stood for the highest ideals of its art and the ethics of its practice; and has been foremost in every movement for the archi- tectural betterment of the city.

In 1894, the older draughtsmen with some of the practicing architects, or- ganized a junior society intended mainly as an educating factor, aiming at the benefits to be gotten from closer contact, comparisons of ideas, the solving of problems in planning and design to be undertaken in competition with each other, and such other advantages as might naturally accrue as a result of co- operation. This society took the name of the Cleveland Architectural club.

In March, 1895, the Cleveland Architectural club instituted as a club prob- lem to be worked out by its members in competition the "Grouping of Cleve- land's Public Buildings." The widest latitude was allowed as to location and the result indicated a great diversity of opinion upon this important point, the ex- tremes reaching Brownell street on the east, Bolivar on the south, Seneca on the west and Lake Erie on the north.

To the best of the writer's recollection, the premiated design covered pretty nearly the same territory now determined upon. The best of these designs were published with favorable comments by the newspapers, but little seemed to have beeen accomplished in a public way. However the seed had been dropped and, although it remained dormant for some time, it had not died, for in 1898 Professor C. F. Olney, who had acted as one of the judges of the club competi- tion, and who continued one of the most earnest advocates of the idea up to the time of his death, was instrumental in securing the appointment of the Chamber of Commerce "Committee on Grouping Plan for Public buildings," three years after the club competition.

Interest having been somewhat revived, the club held a second competi- tion in 1899 and when the drawings were hung, the members of the various boards and committees interested were invited to a public meeting and the plans were carefully explained.

Throughout the ensuing winter the Architectural club conducted a cam- paign of public education by the means of talks given by its members before various public bodies, clubs, men's leagues, etc., using the competition drawings for the purpose of illustration.

In January, 1902, The Chamber of Commerce formally recommended as its "plan," the purchase of the land bounded by Seneca street on the west, Erie street on the east, Lake street on the south and Lake Erie on the north, group- ing the principal buildings along the northerly side of Lake street.

This plan had little to recommend it but its comparative cheapness. It had its advocates and its vigorous opponents; and for a time it seemed as if the whole idea might be lost through controversy. Fortunately the idea of se- curing expert advice of the highest order was suggested and receiving the hearty support of the Chamber of Commerce, legislation was secured creating

Residences of Hon. John Hay and Amasa Stone, Euclid avenue, near Brownell (East 14th) street. Demolished, 1909.

LOAN VIJF ASSOCIATION

Case hall, corner Superior street and Wood (East Brd) street. Built. 1866-7. As it looked just before it was torn down. 1901-2, to make room for new postoffice.

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the group plan commission, to which three architects of national reputation were appointed by the governor.

This commission at once took up the problem and evolved the plan substan- tially as now being developed. The importance and value of this conception in its effect upon the architectural development of the city, can hardly be overesti- · mated and it is but just that the Architectural club be given full credit for, what seems to be, the original conception of the idea, and for its persistent work in influencing public opinion in its favor.

The building of the new postoffice and making of it a monumental build- ing worthy of its place at the southern extremity of the group, followed as it has been by the courthouse at the north end, have apparently determined its limits, and made certain that all other public and semi-public buildings that conform in their general design, will take their places in what will eventually be one of the grandest and most important architectural conceptions in the world.

CHAPTER LI.

VISITS OF PRESIDENTS AND OTHER DISTINGUISHED MEN.

Before the days of railroad travel the visit of a distinguished man was a rare event and the occasion of holiday rejoicing, particularly in the smaller towns. Even since the railways have made travel easy, the visit of a president, or a dis- tinguished public man, is an occasion of unusual interest.

The first presidential visit to Cleveland was made by Martin Van Buren. William Henry Harrison visited Cleveland in 1813, as General of the Army and in 1840 as a presidential candidate. But Van Buren was the first ex-President to visit us. In 1842 he made an extensive trip to the western country. June 27th the city council resolved that he "be respectfully invited to visit Cleveland on his return from the west." At a public meeting in the courthouse the details for his reception were perfected and a letter of invitation sent him to Columbus to which he promptly replied that he would arrive in Cleveland, July 12th, at II a. m. from Detroit. The committee went to Detroit to meet him. When the boat was sighted nearing our harbor the customary salute was fired from the brow of the hill near the lighthouse. The Cleveland Grays acting as guard, escorted the ex- President to the American house from the docks by way of Superior street, thence down Water to St. Clair to Ontario, to Superior and the 'American House, so everybody in town had an opportunity to see him. On the balcony of the hotel he was formally welcomed, and Van Buren replied graciously with his habitual serenity, speaking of the greatness of the west, the canals, their possibilities, and uttering the customary urbane prophecies about the future greatness of the town. Then followed a general handshaking and in the evening a reception given espe- cially for the ladies, who were greatly charmed by Van Buren's polished courtesy. At II p. m. he left by steamer for Buffalo, accompanied to the dock by the band and a display of fireworks.

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The following year John Quincy Adams passed through Cleveland on his way to Cincinnati. He reached here on the morning of November 11, 1843, by boat from Buffalo. The boat arrived unexpectedly early and the committee that had been appointed to meet him, was not on hand. The expresident's arrival was not heralded by bells and cannon, but handbills were at once distributed and the news carried from house to house that the distinguished visitor was to speak in the Congregational church (on the north side of the Square) at II o'clock. In spite of the short notice and the stormy weather, a crowd filled the church. Sher- lock J. Andrews introduced the statesman to the audience. He was in his best spirits and spoke in his finest style of the development of this region since the Revolution. It was his first visit to Lake Erie and he was enthusiastic over the possibilities of its commerce. Unfortunately there is no verbatim report of his speech preserved. His unaffected and sincere manner delighted everyone and when he left by canal for the south he carried with him the best wishes of the townsfolk.

In 1837 Daniel Webster journeyed to the west. The "Herald" for July 15th announced that Webster was in Detroit and "may doubtless be expected here in a day or two. He arrived in Detroit on Saturday evening last by Toledo, having crossed the peninsula of Michigan and came by railroad to the latter named place." This was, no doubt, one of Webster's first railroad rides, for the stretch of road over which he traveled to Detroit was one of the first built in the country. On account of the assembling of congress he declined the invitation to pay Cleveland a visit. A postscript published in the "Herald" of the same date states "Saturday morning, 6:30 o'clock. The Hon. Daniel Webster arrived here this morning at 5 o'clock on the steamboat 'Thomas Jefferson' and left at 6:30. Only a small portion of our citizens had an opportunity of seeing him. He is hastening homeward." This was the only time that the great orator visited Cleveland.

Henry Clay's visit to Cleveland was but a little longer than that of his dis- tinguished colleague. A message was received in Cleveland that Clay would ar- rive here from Sandusky on the steamer "Saratoga." A salute fired from the brow of Lighthouse hill announced his coming and a throng of citizens were at the wharf to welcome him. An informal reception was held on board the boat, Mayor Bingham and Alfred Kelley introducing the citizens. Clay was then taken around town in a carriage, through the Square, stopped for a few minutes at the Weddell House, tradition says to visit the bar, and returned to the boat, which at once resumed its way to Buffalo. Clay, accompanied by his son, was on the way to Newport for his health. "The tall erect form of Mr. Clay bears the mark of time and public service," observed the "Herald."

The visit of Kossuth to this country was the occasion of an enthusiastic demonstration. A committee of Clevelanders, including John C. Vaughan, J. W. Gray, M. C. Younglove, William Slade, Jr. and Dudley Baldwin, were ap- pointed at a public meeting and went to Pittsburg to invite him to Cleveland. Kos- suth told the committee that he would be glad to come but he wished no unneces- sary expenditure of money on ostentation or banquets. He needed the money for the relief of Hungary. On Saturday evening January 31, 1852, Kossuth ar- rived by train. He was escorted to the Weddell house by civic and military or- ders. The following Monday he spoke from the balcony of the American house, after being formally welcomed by the mayor, and in the afternoon at a tremen-

From an old engraving De Witt Clinton

From an old engraving Martin VanBuren

From an old engraving John Quincy Adams

From an old engraving Henry Clay

From an old engraving

Daniel Webtser

From an old engraving William Henry Harrison

From an old engraving Gen. Winfield Scott

Prom an old engraving Abraham Lincoln

From an old engraving Louis Kossuth

GROUP OF DISTINGUISHED VISITORS TO EARLY CLEVELAND

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dous meeting in the Melodeon. Kossuth was a brilliant orator, speaking English with a slight accent. He was also a handsome knight and dressed in the rich velvet costume of his native land, with golden girdle and shining sword, he aroused the most extreme enthusiasm. On Wednesday morning he left for Columbus, ac- companied by a committee, of which Governor Wood was a member. He re- ceived about fifteen hundred dollars in contributions for his cause in Cleveland. The tickets for the Melodeon hall meeting cost three and four dollars, a very large price for those days.

On September 3, 1866, President Johnson visited Cleveland, on his extensive western trip. It was the first time a President of the United States came to Cleveland during his tenure of office. In the Johnson party were many noted men, including General Grant, Admiral Farragut, Secretary Seward, Secretary Wells, General Custer, Postmaster General Randall. General Grant did not ac- company the party to the hotel, but on account of illness went directly to the boat from the depot, and left for Detroit the same evening. The presidential party arrived on the Lake Shore railroad in the afternoon. They were met by committees of soldiers and citizens and escorted to the Kennard House, where an informal supper was served, attended by the city council and invited guests. Af- terwards President Johnson was introduced by Mayor Pelton from the balcony of the hotel to the crowd that had gathered. He spoke at considerable length of his theory of reconstruction; neither his words nor his manner, were well re- ceived, his illusions especially to Lincoln arousing the hostility of the people. The next morning the President was escorted down Euclid avenue and took the train for Toledo. J. W. Walton, then a young business man in Cleveland, took an active interest in the presidential visit, and writes the author some interesting details. "Some republicans knowing him, Johnson, to be a 'short' drinker, passed the whiskey freely, and the consequence was what might have been expected. Johnson's vapid speech was set down in shorthand by Hudson or Mason of the 'Leader.' I think, the former. * It was a little sandpa-

pered before it was printed next day *

* * I was concerned in a banner stretched the next morning from the Forest City House across to Rouse's block and facing the west. On this we had caused to be painted an extract from one of Andy's speeches, while in the house of representatives, taken from the Congres- sional Record: 'In the work of reconstruction, traitors must be made to take back seats.' A. Johnson.

"He saw it as his victoria neared the Public Square and although he had been bowing right and left, he now jammed his beaver hat down over his eyes and kept his glance on the floor of his carriage until he had passed the banner. This I saw. Well, partisanship ran very high then, young folks dearly love a joke and the sentiment was a good one, though mightily unlike what he was talking those days."

On August 16, 1870, President Grant passed through the city. He came un- heralded and remained only a few hours. But it was soon noised abroad that he was at the Kennard House and immediately flags were hoisted everywhere and the leading citizens called upon the great soldier and President. He was taken on a drive down Euclid avennie to the residence of J. H. Wade, where he was presented with flowers and some of the choice early grapes that were ripening

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in Mr. Wade's famous garden. On his return to the Kennard House a crowd had gathered and called for a speech. But the reticent soldier remained true to his traditional silence. An informal reception, however, was vouchsafed the people.

On October 17, 1873, President Grant again passed through Cleveland on his way east. A private telegram announced his coming. The word spread rapidly. A car was hitched to an engine, a reception committee, headed by Mayor Otis, hurried to Elyria, making the trip in thirty-eight minutes. Flags were every- where in evidence, and a crowd surrounded the depot, when the presidential train arrived. Another crowd gathered at the Kennard House, whither the president retired. After a drive down Euclid avenue, the party returned to the Kennard for dinner. Later an informal reception was held, the people filing through the corridors of the hotel. General Grant left the same evening for the east.

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A history of Cleveland, Ohio, Volume I, Part 60

Author: Orth, Samuel Peter, 1873-1922; Clarke, S.J., publishing company Publication date: 1910 Publisher: Chicago-Cleveland : The S.J. Clarke Publishing Co. Number of Pages: 1262

Author: Orth, Samuel Peter, 1873-1922; Clarke, S.J., publishing company
Publication date: 1910
Publisher: Chicago-Cleveland : The S.J. Clarke Publishing Co.
Number of Pages: 1262