USA > Ohio > Cuyahoga County > Cleveland > A history of Cleveland, Ohio, Volume I > Part 97
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In 1871 the board of park commissioners was created and the Square passed from the immediate control of the city council to the new board. In April, 1872, five thousand dollars was placed at the disposal of the commissioners and the following August a bond issue of thirty thousand dollars, seven per cent, twenty year bonds was authorized. Money was now available for improving the Square. Walks were laid, a pavilion built, the rustic bridge and rock work were put in. These latter "improvements" are still in place in the northwest section. The lily fountain, the gift of Mr. Clark, was brought from Franklin Circle and was planted in the northwest section joined some time later by the palpitating gey- ser in the northeast section. The mayor in his annual message of 1872 says of the Square : "A dilapidated open space in the heart of the city, a sort of public receptacle for dirt, has been changed into a thing of beauty and become a con- stant source of pleasure to the public." 4
4 For many facts concerning the history of the parks, sce "Report of Park Commissioners for 1879."
760
HISTORY OF CLEVELAND
The speaking pavilion erected on the northwest section became a popular "place of assembly." The northeast side, however, became a depot for express wagons and moving vans that stood in unsightly rows there all day. The council was petitioned in 1887 to forbid this. In 1889 the mayor says that the Square is "in a miserable, dilapidated, shabby, ragged condition ; the walks are worn and broken to a degree which renders them dangerous in many places ; the speaker's stand has become an unsightly and unsafe ruin; seasonable floral adornment has been abandoned." Some renovation followed.
The great revival of park enthusiasm in recent years has been felt by the old Square. In 1900 the street railway and the city joined in erecting shelter houses, followed by a public comfort station. Gay tulips now flaunt their gaudy petals in the warm spring days, followed by the patient geraniums and the many colored coleus. The greensward is well trimmed and watered, the emblems around the Soldiers' monument are beautifully planted, the fountains are painted periodically, the "grotto" in front of the Forest City House is peopled annually with plants that seem to delight in its fantastic nooks, the comfort of the people is cared for by benches and shelter houses, and the Weather Bureau kiosk speaks of the scientific guardianship of the government. But the glory of the Square has departed. The last of its big elms were removed in 1890. A few smaller stragglers were left in 1896, but they are all gone now. They were not great elms that had seen the stately pageantry of civilization follow the reluctant exit of the red man. The few forest trees of ancient lineage on the Square had been early cut down in accordance with the settler's instinct. But they were beautiful and graceful trees, their trunks nearly two feet in diameter, and they were loved by the old settlers who protested vehemently against their removal. In their place, sycamores are annually planted with elaborate care only to sicken and suc- cumb to the sulphurous and arsenious gases that have deforested our city and robbed it of its former glory.
The architecture surrounding the Square has been indicative of the growth of the city. With the exception of the Forest City House corner, which has been continuously occupied as a tavern since 1815, and the Old Stone Church corner, which has been occupied since 1834, it was completely surrounded by homes. Some of these were fine and commodious. But most of them were modest in size and architecture. A pencil drawing made by William Case, probably about the date of the Mexican war, shows the plain facades of these homes looking out upon the Square that was planted with young trees in regular, military rows. About 1850 these homes began to yield one by one, to the business invasion that threatened from the west, where Superior street enters. On the northwest side in 1853 were two three story "blocks" and on the south side were five brick stores, extending through to Champlain street. Their cost was twenty-five thousand dol- lars, an index to the value and cost of the old store buildings. A four-story brick block was also erected on the corner of Euclid and the Square, costing ten thousand dollars. 5 In 1854 the Rouse block was built on the northwest corner of Superior street and the Square. It was then the handsomest in the city, four stories high and basement, with dressed sandstone walls. On the side toward the Square was
" See "Daily Herald," Vol. 19, No. 251.
761
HISTORY OF CLEVELAND
an open pattern iron staircase and balcony that was greatly admired. The top floor of the building was occupied by Folsom's Mercantile College, the second and third by offices and the ground floor "with a front of costly plate glass" by Al- bertson's jewelry store and George W. Bentley & Company's hat and fur store. 6 This old building with its iron balcony, long since grown unsafe with rust, still stands.
In 1834 the First Presbyterian church was built, followed by a new building in 1853, which was destroyed by fire soon afterward and was immediately replaced by the present structure, the "Old Stone Church."
In 1854 the quaint Mellen homestead on the southeast corner of the Square and Superior street gave way to the Hoffman block, four stories high. It contained eight store rooms. The one on the corner was occupied by Gaylord & Company's drug store. It was considered very fine, the "inside finish all oak, Norman style," says the enthusiastic editor of the "Herald." The same year also saw the new Chapin block erected on the Euclid avenue corner. Chapin's Hall was in this block. Its 1,200 upholstered seats, its stage and dressing rooms, and above all, its hot air furnace for heating, made it one of the most notable halls in the west. It was especially designed for musical entertainments and was at first called Concert Hall. Within a few years its glory yielded to Case Hall.
In 1855 Council Hall was built by John James on the southwest corner. The city offices occupied the two upper floors. It is still standing. The old Case home- stead on the east side gave way to the fine Federal building in the late fifties. This stone structure had fine lines and its walls were in splendid condition when it was demolished to make way for the present postoffice.
The Society for Savings erected a banking house in 1867 on the site now oc- cupied by the Chamber of Commerce. Meanwhile a row of squalid one and two story buildings occupied the side south of Ontario. The Square had now entirely surrendered to commerce.
The first monument erected on the Square was Perry's statue, dedicated Sep- tember 10, 1860, the forty-seventh anniversary of the battle of Lake Erie. The orator of the day was George Bancroft, the eminent historian. The governor of Rhode Island, the native state of Commodore Perry, his staff, and a few sur- vivors of the battle and members of the family were present. The monument at first stood in the center of the Square at the intersection of the streets, taking the place of the primitive fountain. In 1878 it was removed to the southeastern quarter and in 1894 to Wade Park, where it is now hidden among the trees.7
The statue of Moses Cleaveland was unveiled on the anniversary of the first landing of the General on the banks of the Cuyahoga, July 22, 1888, by the Early Settlers Association in the presence of over five hundred "early settlers" and a multitude of citizens. The Cleveland Grays were the guards of honor. Harvey Rice, the president, was too feeble to be present, and his presentation speech was read by Hon. A. J. Williams. Mayor Babcock accepted the gift for the city. The meeting then adjourned to Music Hall, where the oration was delivered by S. E. Adams.8
" See "Daily Herald," Vol. 20, No. 258.
7 For full account of the unveiling, see "Inauguration of the Perry Statue at Cleveland on the 10th of December, 1860, including Addresses and Other Proceedings," Cleveland, 1861.
8 For details see "Annals Early Settlers Association," 1888.
762
HISTORY OF CLEVELAND
The Soldiers and Sailors monument was placed on the Square only after the earnest protest of many patriotic citizens had been brushed aside by the court. The monument was dedicated July 4, 1894. William McKinley, then governor of the state, and Senator J. B. Foraker, delivered the orations, Virgil P. Kline read the Declaration of Independence, and a chorus of school children sang ap- propriate hymns. There was also a brilliant pageant, and in the evening a gen- eral illumination.9
In April, 1861, some city councilman thought to immortalize himself by changing the historic old name of Public Square into the monstrous Monumental Park, and city council, obtuse to historic interest, acquiesced. Officially this verbal monstrosity is still the name. To the people, happily, it has always re- mained "The Square."
The cannon that are placed on the Square are the relics of three wars: the War of 1812, the Civil war and the war with Spain .*
The Square was the scene of the first extensive electric illumination made in this country. January 27, 1879, the park commissioners asked the city council for electric lights on the Square. A committee was appointed and they reported that they had had a conference with "Professor Brush and the Telegraph Supply Company and are of the opinion that there can be no doubt of the practicability of lighting up the Public Square in a satisfactory manner with the Brush electric light." The company agreed to light the Square and streets bound- ing it with twelve lights for one dollar per hour. This proposition was adopted providing the entire cost should not exceed $1,348.95 for the year. On the evening of April 29, 1879, "a dazzling glory filled the park, crowds being present to witness the practical demonstration of a scientific victory." 10
These outward circumstances of municipal growth do not appeal to the fancy as do the great and stirring events which the old Square has witnessed. In the village days the town meetings gathered in the rude courthouse. Amid the stumps and brush stood the curious throngs of pioneers to witness the first public execution in the county, the hanging of the Indian O'Mic. It was the gathering place for all public meetings, where the fervor of the pioneer revivalist alternated with the vehemence of the stump speaker. When deft Van Buren came to town he was paraded through the Square, so that all could get an opportunity to see him. So also colossal DeWitt Clinton, who came to help begin the Ohio canal, and staid John Quincy Adams, and exuberant Henry Clay, and lordly Daniel Web- ster ; all stopped in our town but a few hours, yet each one was taken through this open space. Later Abraham Lincoln and unfortunate Andrew Johnson, the warriors Sherman and Grant and the Ohio Presidents, Hayes, Garfield, Harri- son and Mckinley, all were greeted on the Square by enthusiastic multitudes.
The Square has been the forum of our partisanship and political conviction, where the fervid eloquence of statesmen and political leaders thrilled vast throngs of eager citizens, gathered in the great open air meetings that were pop- ular fifty years ago. Few distinguished names in our public annals during the stirring middle period of the nation's history, can be omitted from the rolls of
9 See "History of the Cuyahoga County Soldiers and Sailors Monument," William Gleason.
* For details concerning these cannon see "Annals Early Settlers Association," Vol. 3, P. 547. 10 "Report of Park Commissioners," 1879.
From an old cut
The Northwest Section
PHOTO INCRAVINGCO
From an old cut The bridge and pond southwest Section
From an old cut View from Forest City House, eastward
From an old cut Superior street, west from the square FOUR VIEWS OF THE PUBLIC SQUARE ABOUT 1871
763
HISTORY OF CLEVELAND
those whose voices have been heard in our Public Square; stolid General Cass, picturesque Sam Houston, the inimitable Tom Corwin, vehement Horace Gree- ley, courteous John P. Hale, the invincible Douglas, "Prince John" Van Buren, fearless Joshua R. Giddings, pugnacious Ben Wade, chaste Seward, and a mul- titude of others. Here were enacted the most exciting scenes of the significant campaign that brought to its issue the question of human slavery. Conventions of Kansas sympathizers, of abolitionists, of Union democrats and of the newly organized republicans, brought their throngs to the Square.
The great debate between our own Rufus P. Ranney and William Dennison, both candidates for governor just before the war, was held here. And a few years later bold and picturesque John Brough as candidate for governor against the brilliant and erratic Vallandingham roused the city and the entire north by his picturesque speech made in a vast open meeting in the Square. And Cleve- land's own favorite orators were heard often in these years: among them the gifted and scholarly Sherlock J. Andrews, whose distinguished bearing and choice diction graced as presiding officer, many of these historic meetings; Rufus P. Ranney, Ohio's greatest lawyer ; Rufus P. Spalding, many years a congressman, vehement defender of fugitive slaves, joined in his advocacy by A. G. Riddle, brilliant and refined, Franklin T. Backus, learned and sincere, Stanley O. Gris- wold, able advocate, and Judge Tilden, benevolent and gifted.
Today the din of the metropolis makes out-of-door meetings in the Square impossible. But in the northwest corner is even now heard the strident voice of agitator, revolutionist, visionary and exhorter, uttering their puny protests against things as they are, their wails and threats lost in the roar of actual life that swirls through the busy Square.
And while receiving their inspirations from these political camp meetings and rallies our fathers also made the Square the scene of their picturesque revelries over their victories. Every election night had its jollification. Not the congested riot of noise and laughter that fills Superior and Euclid avenues on these later days, but a lurid bonfire, reinforced by the weird flicker of innumerable torches that were borne by men gleeful as children over their victory, amid the noise of bands and of cannon. On several presidential and state elections these jolli- fications were unusually unctious, notably the elections of William Henry Har- rison, of Zachary Taylor and of Lincoln. The jubilant partisans gathered in the Square, forebore long enough to listen to appropriate harangues, and then the torchlight parade, like a huge fiery serpent, wound through the streets to the homes of the favorite political leaders to serenade and to cheer.
The Square was the center of two historic jubilees, the National Centennial of 1876, and the Municipal Centennial of 1896, when the gay pageantry of peace marched under arches of victory that spanned Superior street. And in solemn contrast to these festivities stand two occasions of national sorrowing: when the Square received the bier of Lincoln in 1865, and when in 1885, the sorrowing, silent multitudes paid their last token of respect to Garfield, the second martyr.
Thus in the years long past the Square has been the heart of our community, faithful and responding promptly to the great emotions of joy, of sorrow and of solemn conviction, that have swept the chords of our civic life. And the Square is still the heart of our city. Its four chambers, like giant pairs of auricles and
764
HISTORY OF CLEVELAND
ventricles, daily pour forth their streams of human beings, who gather like in- numerable corpuscles from the vast aorta and vena-cava of the two great ave- nues, and are scattered through the myriad streets, the capillary network of this throbbing organism, the city.
And the Square is a faithful symbol of the spirit of the city. Bordering its southwest section are the old, dilapidated buildings of the first mercantile age, grown unsightly and all but useless under the accumulation of the soot and rust of years. The northwest section has fared but little better. The important Su- perior corner, a ragged remnant of the past, standing by the side of the more modern, though no more ornamental, skyscraper; the old stone courthouse, the Old Stone church, the old brick theater. The southeast section, with its utility box on the Ontario corner, filled with tiny offices; the Euclid corner with the stately Williamson building, which overlooks in majestic disdain, its chaste neighbor, the Cuyahoga building, the pioneer modern office building on the Square. And the northwest section, with its imposing Gothic bank, its ornate Chamber of Commerce, and its monumental Postoffice.
Need the symbolism of this architecture be interpreted? The unrivalled com- mercial and financial advancement of our city, its fine new spirit of civic alert- ness, its ambitious plans for the future, when the noble group plan shall be re- alized, all are linked with the petty provincialism of yesterday, the excessive utilitarianism and severe literalism of today.
The Old Square has witnessed many changes. It will see many more. In a few years it will behold all that is small and petty in the past and the present absorbed by the splendid idealism of cooperation that will characterize the Cleve- land of tomorrow.
+
APPENDIX.
APPENDIX
SURVEYING PARTY OF 1796.
General Moses Cleaveland superintendent; Augustus Porter, principal surveyor and deputy superin- tendent; Seth Pease, astronomer and surveyor; Amos Spafford, John Milton Holley, Richard M. Stoddard and Moses Warren surveyors; Joshua Stow, commissary; Treodore Shepard, physician .. Employees-Joseph Tinker, boatman. George Proudfoot, Samuel Formes, Joseph M'Intyre, Francis Gray, Amos Sawtell, Amos Barber, Stephen Benton, Samuel Hungerford, William B. Hall, Asa Mason, Samuel Davenport, Michael Coffin, Amzi Atwater, Thomas Harris, Elisha Ayres, Norman Wilcox, Timothy Dunham, George Gooding, Shadrach Benham, Samuel Agnew, Wareham Shepard, John Briant, David Beard, Titus V. Munson, Joseph Landon, Charles Parker, Ezekiel Morly, Nathaniel Doan, Luke Hanchet, James Halket, James Hamilton, Olney F. Rice, John Lock, Samuel Barnes, Stephen Burbank, Daniel Shulay. Number of employees-37-
"Elijah Gun and Anna, his wife, came with the surveyors and took charge of Stow's castle at Conneaut."
"Job P. Stiles and Tabitha Cumi, his wife, were left in charge of the company's stores at Cleveland." "Nathan Chapman and Nathan Perry furnished the surveyors with fresh beef and traded with the Indians." (Whittlesey "Early History of Cleveland," pp. 188-9.)
SECOND SURVEYING PARTY, 1797.
Rev. Seth Hart, superintendent; Seth Pease, principal surveyor .*
SURVEYORS (8).
Richard M. Stoddard,* Amos Spafford,* Moses Warren,* Wareham Shepard,* Amzi Atwater,* Phineas Barker, Joseph Landon,* Nathan Redfield, Theodore Shepherd (or Shephard), physician .*
EMPLOYEES (52).
Col. Ezra Waite, Thomas Gun, Peleg Waterman (or Washburn), Maj. William Shepard, Hubbard T. Linsley, David Eldridge (drowned), Minor Bicknell (died), Josiah Barse (or Barze), John Doane, Joseph Tinker,* Jotham Atwater, Oliver Culver, Samuel Spafford (son of Amos), Dan'l Holbrook, explorer, Stephen Gilbert, Lot Sanford, Nathaniel Doan,* Alpheus Choat, David Clark, William Andrews (died), Solomon Gid- ings, Matthew L. Gilgore, Samuel Forbes, E. Chapman, James Stoddard, David Beard,* Ezekiel Morley,* Solo- mon Shepard, Thomas Tupper, William Tinker, Chester Allen, Alexander Allen, James Berry, George Gidings, Bery Nye, James Stoddard, Joseph Nye, Enoch Eldridge, Asa Mason, Charles Parker,* Eli Kellogg, Job Coe, William Barker, Elli Rowley (deserted), Shubal Parker (or Park), Clark Reynolds, Jacob Carlton, William Stoddard, Phil Barker, John Hine, Eli Canfield, Sylvester Smith.
* These were of the first surveying party, 1796.
Whittlesey "Early History of Cleveland."
THE ORIGINAL SUBSCRIBERS TO THE PURCHASE OF THE WESTERN RESERVE, AND THE PROPORTIONS OF THEIR SUBSCRIPTIONS. From Whittlesey.
Joseph Howland and Daniel L. Coit .. $ 30,461
Oliver Phelps $ 168,185
Elias Morgan
51,402
Asahel Hathaway 12,000
Caleb Atwater. 22,846
John Caldwell and Peleg Sanford. 15,000
Daniel Holbrook.
8,750
Timothy Burr
15,231
Joseph Williams 15,231
Luther Loomis and Ebenezer King, Jr .... 44,318
William Love. 10,500
16,256
Elisha Hyde and Uriah Tracey
57,400
James Johnson
Samuel P. Lord.
14,093
Samuel Mather, Jr ..
18,461
Ephraim Kirby, Elijah Boardman and
Uriel Holmes, Jr.
60,000
Ephraim Starr 17,415
Solomon Griswold 10,000
Sylvanus Griswold 1,683
Oliver Phelps and Gideon Granger, Jr. 80,000
Joscb Stocking and Joshua Stow
11,423
William Hart 30,462
Titus Street 22,846
Asher Miller 34,000
Robert C. Johnson.
60,000
Henry Champion, 2nd.
85,675
Ephraim Root
42,000
Nehemiah Hubbard, Jr.
19,039
Solomon Cowles
10,000
Total cost of Reserve
. $1,200,000
767
James Bull, Aaron Olmstead and Jolin
Wyles . 30,000
Picrpoint Edwards 60,000
William Judd.
William Lyman, John Stoddard and David King 24,730
Moses Cleaveland
32,600
30,000
Roger Newberry, Enoch Perkins and Jona- than Brace 38,000
768
HISTORY OF CLEVELAND
ORIGINAL OWNERS OF LOTS IN CLEVELAND BY DRAFT OR FIRST PURCHASE, AND NUMBERS OF LOTS DRAWN OR PURCHASED. From Whittlesey's "Early History of Cleveland," P. 388. .
Samuel Huntington
I to 6, 61, 75, 76, 78, 80 to 84, 190 to 194, 206, 210
Judson Canfield and others. 79
Caleb Atwater .. 7 to 24, 31 to 36
Samuel P. Lord, Jr .. . 85 to 87, 97 to 99, 211 and 212
Lorenzo Carter .25 to 30, 54, 197 to 205
William Shaw
.88 to 96, 100 to 133
Ephraim Root +37 to 47
Elijah Boardman and others.
.48
John Bolls and others. 139 to 144
Ezekiel Hawley .49 to 51
David Clark . 52 and 53
Ephraim Stow and others. 154 to 155
Joseph Howland . 55 to 57, 62
Martin Sheldon and others. .161, 162, 212
Chas. Dutton
.58
James Kingsbury
. 59 and 60
Oliver Phelps
. . . . 170 to 177, 182 to 190, 213 to 215, 217 to 220 Richard W. Hart and others. 195, 196
TABLE I.
SHOWING ANNUAL MILEAGE OF STREETS GRADED, CURBED AND PAVED, AND SEWERS BUILT, WITH COST OF SAME.
Year
Miles
Paved
Cost
Miles Streets
Graded and
Curbed
Cost
Miles
Sewer
Built
Cost
1870
5.15
$357,807.34
6.6
$19,231.45
5.1
$ 172,163-77
187 1
3-45
246,988.20
14.4
42,027.77
4.2
77,622.09
1872
4.6
280,939.20
6.6
37,834-30
5.2
117,709.05
1873
3-93
225,570.41
10.23
72,827.08
5.38
89,346.88
1874
7.33
525,758.21
10.66
106,921.62
II.
412,801.27
1875
5.6
194,686.48
17.31
45,766.10
6.16
150,934.71
1876
14.7
46,631.36
2.4
3,530.50
2.7
36,263.03
1880
6,563.2
....
5,806.
2.5
9,288.92
1881
30,135-54
.....
2,733-54
3.61
16,163.89
1882
5.5
1883
5-5
275,440.89
2.55+
7,344.84
6.88
121,431.99
1885
3.6
152,350.28
6.08
22,474-54
7.42
85,015.51
1886
4-4
162,313.02
9-7
21,944.
7.56
114, 196.22
1887
5.
181,611.35
13.68
44,325-55
10.14
157,084.63
1888
252, 116.76
12.7
39,670.85
6.43
110,244.
1889
118,020.37
17.8
55,185.13
11.5
165,201.19
1890
467,637.09
14.2
51,150.47
16.48
300,510.23
189 1
13-5
598,572.00
11.44
53,109.00
21.83
484,188.00
1892
6.4
217,202.58
3.95
31,766.81
18.2
266,992.
1893
13.2
482,847-74
5.9
51,047.06
14.5
203,202.89
1895
16.58
683,116.82
2.2
10,310.96
8.55
112,767.97
1896
7.35
167,759-47
3.6
13,657.94
9-74
201,669.77
1897
8.73
243,655-70
2.5
9,427.25
10.5
402,454-97
1898
17.2
495,906.11
3-45
19,989.92
12.86
631,345. 12
1899
19.5
549,209.76
2.96
15,269.48
13.70
617,716.25
1900
14-7
394,165.35
2.9
34,512.33
17.27
442,250.84
1901
16.0
533,549.61
1.2
6,499-75
24.11
678, 146.44
1902
15.9
582,934.40
1.35
6,098.21
24.17
653,334.70
1903
15.6
471,397.24
0.6
3,543.51
23.4
*1,381,137.65
1904
27.1
749,537.32
0.6
3,439.29
21.52
*1,087,585.29
1905
27.6
966,718.91
.....
14.42
552,761.44
1906
19.3
640,710-73
33-32
543,476.34
1907
30.10
988,839.00
..
...
....
28.47
757,807.57
1908
29.7
922,426.00
.....
......
21.44
542,817.62
..
. .
. .
. .
.....
..
..
1884
97,369.12
10,229.29
4.78
105,730.43
1878
1879
3,788.76
2,701.09
2.08
6,107.20
Samuel W. Phelps
63
Joseph Perkins and others.
64 to 72
Austin and Huntington
.73 and 74
...
. .
* Includes the interceptor.
...
.....
. .
....
..
1894
.....
1.14
9,411.62
1877
Streets
Wyles and others. .77
Samuel Parkman 134 to 138
Asher Miller. 145 to 153, 156 to 160
Amos Spafford. 179 to 181, 187 to 190
769
APPENDIX
TABLE II. SHOWING MILES OF STREET PAVEMENT. NO DEFINITE CONTINUOUS DATA PREVIOUS TO 1895.
Year
Asphalt
Medina Stone
Paving Brick
Wood
Macadam Stone
Cobble
Miscel - laneous
Total Miles
1886
51.01
..
3.21
4.94
.049
...
60.75
1895
3.84
75-47
23.31
1.46
.73
.05
.67
105.53
1896
4.96
77.02
32.70
1.43
.73
.05
.67
117.07
1897
4.95
89.80
38.55
1.48
.73
.05
.67
136.23
1898
7.25
90.71
49.72
.33
.73
.05
.67
150.71
1899
9.5
89.9
65.7
.33
.73
.05
.67
166.88
1900
II.2
92.0
79.3
.3
.70
1.2
184.7
1901
12.96
93-4
92.3
ยท3
.70
200.86
1902
16.3
89.3
104.14
.3
.7
..
...
211.0
1903
17.4
87.2
117.7
.3
.7
....
...
223.3
1904
17.4
90.6
142.4
1.8
....
....
....
252.2
1905
22.9
91.5
168.03
1.13
.4
..
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