A history of Wilkes-Barre, Luzerne County, Pennsylvania, from its first beginnings to the present time; including chapters of newly-discovered, Vol. I, Part 6

Author: Harvey, Oscar Jewell, 1851-1922; Smith, Ernest Gray
Publication date: 1909-1930
Publisher: Wilkes-Barre : Raeder Press
Number of Pages: 734

USA > Pennsylvania > Luzerne County > Wilkes-Barre > A history of Wilkes-Barre, Luzerne County, Pennsylvania, from its first beginnings to the present time; including chapters of newly-discovered, Vol. I > Part 6

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At some distance south-east of the Wyoming-Moosic range, and nearly parallel with it, runs the lofty, desolate and irregular Pocono range. The head-waters of the Lehigh River meander over its top, where lakes, ponds and sphagnous marshes lie embosomed in dense beech forests, and are fringed with laurel thickets, while here and there are large open tracts of territory almost destitute of trees. The spread- ing branches of Lackawaxen Creek, and the smaller Sholiola, drain all the eastern parts of the range into the Delaware River. Lying chiefly in the counties of Carbon, Monroe and Pike, Pennsylvania, the Pocono Mountains form links in the chain of mountains that stretches through the Atlantic States from the Blue Ridge in North Carolina to the Cats- kills in New York. Writing of the Pocono Mountains in 1839 William L. Stone said ("Poetry and History of Wyoming," page 74) :

"When the summit of Pokono is attained, the traveler is upon the top of that wild and desolate table of Pennsylvania, extending for upward of a hundred miles, between and parallel with the Delaware and Susquehanna rivers, and from twenty to thirty-five miles in breadth. Behind him is a noble landscape of wooded hills and cultivated valleys, bounded eastward and south by the Blue Mountains, which form a branching range of the Alleghenies. The Wind Gap is distinctly and beautifully in sight. But facing westwardly, and glancing toward the north and the south, the prospect is as dreary as naked rocks and shrub oaks and stunted pines and a death-like solitude can make it. The general surface is rough and broken, hills rising and valleys sinking by fifties, if not by hundreds, over the whole broad mountain surface. In many places for miles there is no human habitation in view, and no one bright or cheerful spot upon which the eye can repose. The gloom, if not the grandeur, of a large portion of this in- hospitable region is increased by the circumstance that it is almost a continuous morass, across which the turnpike is formed by a causeway of logs insufficiently covered with earth, and bearing the appropriate name of a corduroy road."

Parallel with the Pocono range, and from seven to ten miles distant from it, runs the long, regular and well-defined range known as the Kittatinny, or Blue, Mountains. The former name is derived from, or, more probably, is a corruption of, the Indian word Kau-tat-in-chunk, signifying "main, or principal, mountain." About twenty miles north of Easton, Pennsylvania, and forty-three miles in a bee-line (seventy-six miles by railway) south-east of Wilkes-Barré, the Delaware River breaks through the Blue Mountains at the celebrated Delaware Water Gap ; while some twenty-eight miles to the south-west of the Delaware the Lehigh River breaks through the same mountain range at the Lehigh Gap. Nearly midway between these two gaps is a remarkable depres- sion in the mountain called the Wind Gap-not because it abounds in wind, but because it appears to have been made without the agency of water. It is a deep notch-suddenly reducing the height of the inou11- tain by about two-thirds-towards which the leading roads on both sides

converge, and through which they pass in one great thoroughfare. The Blue Mountains at the Delaware Water Gap are about 1,600 feet high, and the sharp, rocky crest of the range maintains itself in an almost perfectly even, horizontal line at that elevation above tide-water for 180 iniles across the State; but the apparent height is diminished going west by the gradual elevation of the country in front of the mountains, which they overlook. The range keeps a nearly straight course south, 25° west, for 104 miles between the Delaware Gap and the gap at Harrisburg.

Beyond Shawanese Mountain (the western and north-western boundary of Wyoming Valley as previously mentioned) lie, in confused and jumbled order, high knobs, short ridges and irregular spurs of mountains, ranging in height from 1,100 to 1,500 feet above sea-level, and interspersed with rolling uplands of considerable extent now well cleared and cultivated. This region extends many miles in a north- easterly and south-westerly direction, and stretches westward and north- westward to the bold and impressive North Mountain range-2,200 to 2,400 feet above sea-level-on the border-lines of the counties of Luzerne, Sullivan and Wyoming.

To the early explorers and cartographers of north-eastern Pennsyl- vania the imountains northward of Wyoming Valley were denomi- nated the "Endless Mountains," while those lying in a north-westerly direction were described as "inaccessible"-situated in a region contain- ing "nothing but mountains which no one can pass."* In this region lie some of the largest and most beautiful lakes in Pennsylvania. Twelve miles north-west from Wilkes-Barré in a bee-line, at an elevation of 1,226 feet above sea-level (according to the United States Geologi- cal Survey), is Harvey's Lake, the largest lake within the limits of the State. Fifteen miles dne west from it, on North Mountain, 2,266 feet above sea-level, is Lake Ganoga, formerly known, locally, as Long Pond, but upon early maps of this region noted as "Shawanese Lake." Fifteen iniles north-west of Lake Ganoga lies Eagles Mere, a beautiful sheet of water formerly called Lewis' Lake. It is larger than Ganoga, but not so large as Harvey's Lake, and its elevation above sea-level is 2,001 feet.

The mountains that form the valley of Wyoming are quite regular in their conformation and appearance, and are almost uniform in height throughout their whole extent. The crest-line of Wilkes-Barré Moun- tain varies from 1,200 to 1,400 feet above sea-level, while that of Shaw- anese Mountain varies from 1,000 to 1,625 feet-its average height being about 1,450 feet. The following interesting record of mountain- measurements inade from a station on the River Common at the foot of Northampton Street, Wilkes-Barré, in the Summer of 1809, was printed in The Luzerne Federalist (Wilkes-Barré) of September 15, 1809, and was reprinted in Hazard's Register of Pennsylvania (II : 128) September 6, 1828 :

"Distance to the top of the mountain south-east of the borough, 4,685 yards. [This was the mountain then known as "Bullock's," and described on page 44.] Per- pendicular height of the same, 305 yards. Distance to the top of the mountain north- west of the borough, 5,583 yards. [This was that portion of Shawanese Mountain lying back of the present boroughs of Kingston and Edwardsville.] Perpendicular height of the same, 227 yards. Distance from the top of one mountain to the other, 10,103 yards [5.74+ miles]. Average height of the mountains above low-water mark, 275 yards, or S27} feet."

* See map on page 33, maps of 1748 and 1749 in Chapter IV, and map of 1756 in Chapter V.

VIEW OF SCOVELL'S ISLAND AND CAMPBELL'S LEDGE.

From a photograph taken on the right bank of the Susquehanna near West Pittston Cemetery in October, 1902.

Large areas of Shawanese Mountain were cleared of timber many years ago, and, in a general way, have been cultivated ever since ; but Wilkes-Barré Mountain is still almost entirely covered with a natural growth of brushwood, scrubby thickets and small trees. Owing to the ax of the strenuous wood-chopper in earlier years, and the frequent and extensive forest-fires that have occurred in recent years, as well as to other causes, great changes have taken place with respect to the charac- ter of the woodlands on these mountains. In the year 1817 Isaac A. Chapman wrote concerning them as follows (see Hazard's Register, V : 34) :

"On the mountains the prevailing timber is oak of various kinds, thinly intermixed with Yellow, Pitch and White Pine, which grow short and scrubby, there being very little of it proper for any other purpose than fuel. On the smaller hills, where the soil is better, the timber is larger and of a better quality, and consists also of a greater variety- such as hickory, lynn or linden, birch of three kinds, two kinds of maple, two of ash, cherry and beech ; these being mixed, in every part of the county where they are found, with hemlock, a species of timber improperly called spruce in many parts of the State- being the Pinus Canadensis of botanical writers."

Both ranges of the Wyoming Valley mountains are indented by several deep hollows or gaps. For example, in the south-eastern range, or Wilkes-Barré Mountain, are Warrior Gap, Sugar Notch, Solomon's Gap and Laurel Run Gap; and in the north-western range, or Shaw- anese Mountain, are Mill (formerly Hartsough's) Hollow and Car- penter's (now Shoemaker's) Hollow. Here and there in both ranges are bulging knobs, precipitous ledges and sheer cliffs-wholly or in part barren of trees and undergrowth-from which extended and pleasing prospects of the valleys of Wyoming and Lackawanna may be viewed. Atthe head of Wyoming Valley, forming the north- eastern wall of the precip- itous gap through which the Susquehanna River enters the valley (see page 34), stands Camp- bell's Ledge. It is the south-western extremity of Capouse Mountain, mentioned on page 44, and at its highest point is 1,364 feet above sea-level, or some 840 feet above the river's surface. This ledge was formerly called Dial Rock, from the fact that on its face, near the summit, there extends directly north and south a crescent of naked, green- ish-grey stone, which can be seen for a long distance if the weather be favor- able. Precisely at noon- CAMPBELL'S LEDGE, tide this crescent receives on a cloudless day the full

From the road near its base, September, 1903.

rays of the sun. Thus the husbandman of early days, toiling either on the broad flats lying near the base of the mountain and extending south and west along the Susquehanna, or elsewhere within sight of the rugged mountain's face, was enabled to determine, easily and cheaply, by the illuminated rock-dial the hour of noonday rest and refreshment. The name Campbell's Ledge is understood, and generally believed, to have been given to this precipice many years ago in honor of the author of "Gertrude of Wyoming"-mentioned hereinafter. There is current, however, a legend that claims a different origin for the name.

"A man named Campbell was pursued by the Indians. He had taken refuge in the ravines of this mountain, where are many fine living springs, and where the thick foliage afforded a safe shelter. But the fierce Red Men are on his track. He is an old enemy, and is singled out for special torture. He knows his fate if taken. He tries every path that winds out into the deeper forest, but without success. He is hemmed in like the roe by the relentless wolves. But he does not hesitate; he springs forward to the verge of the hanging rock. One glance behind him shows that escape is utterly hope- less. The shouts of the savages are heard as they rush upon their prey. With a scream of defiance he leaps into the friendly arms of death."-Peck's "Wyoming," page 348.

FALLING SPRING.

Not far from the northern end of Campbell's Ledge, alongside the road leading up through the river "narrows," is a little stream that for many years has been a well- known and picturesque landmark in this region, and is called Falling Spring.

The south-western extremity of Shawanese Mountain, at the point where the Susquehanna breaks out of the valley as described on pages 35 and 36, is a rugged, precipi- tous ledge bulging out near its summit in a knob-like form. This ledge or cliff is somewhat similar to Campbell's Ledge, but its eleva- tion is only 1,000 feet above sea- level. For many years it has been known as Tillbury's Knob-hav- ing received this name from Abra- ham Tillbury, who dwelt within its shadow a hundred years ago and more .*

Diagonally across the river from Tillbury's Knob is Honey Pot Mountain. This is the north-eastern extremity of Lee's Mountain, which is the continuation below Wyoming Valley of Shawanese Mountain. Honey Pot Mountain was so named about 1773 by Maj. Prince Alden, who owned several hundred acres of land in that locality, and, on his first entrance upon it, discovered a large quantity of the honey of wild bees. In the illustration on page 36 the extreme north-eastern part of Honey Pot is shown ; while nearly the whole of it is seen in the "View from Tillbury's Knob" facing this page.

Mount Lookout is a dome-shaped section of Shawanese Mountain, and its extent is well defined by Carpenter's, or Shoemaker's, Hollow

* See "The Harvey Book," pages 94 and 660.

Harvey's Landing, 1773-'95.

Nanticoke Falls and Mouth of Harvey's Creek.

VIEW FROM TILLBURY'S KNOB, LOOKING DOWN THE SUSQUEHANNA. From a photograph taken in 1898 by Harry W. Nesbitt.

and a smaller, nameless gap or hollow a short distance north-eastward. Its highest elevation is 1,526 feet above sea-level, and it overlooks the plain whereon was fought the battle of Wyoming, July 3, 1778 .*

On the north-westerly face of Wilkes-Barré Mountain near its crest, 1,300 feet above sea-level and 794 feet above the Susquehanna's low- water level, is Prospect Rock. It is almost due south-east from Public Square, Wilkes-Barré, two and a-quarter miles "as the crow flies," and is a steep ledge-limited in extent and very irregular in its conforma- tion-composed of light grey, alinost white, conglomerate.

For years it lias been the favorite and inost accessible point from which to obtain an al- most complete view of Wyoming Valley ; being readily reached by the road (formerly the Easton and Wilkes- Barré Turnpike) lead- ing over the mountain from the end of North- ampton Street, Wilkes- Barré. +

Through the whole length of Wyoming Valley the Susque- hanna flows a serpen- tine course of seventeen and one-half miles- nine and one-half miles from Coxton, at the base of Campbell's Ledge, to Market Street, Wilkes-Barré, PROSPECT ROCK IN 1903. and thence eight miles to Nanticoke Falls. On both sides of the river, for nearly this whole distance, lie rich and fertile alluvial bottom-lands, forming plains or flats; at some points narrow and restricted in breadth, but at others stretching out towards the hills or mountains for at least a mile. In some parts of the valley a large portion of the surface of the plain is elevated about ten feet above the remaining portion, forming a sudden offset or declivity. As you get farther away from the river these bottom-lands gradually und11- late, until, at a distance of about a mile-in the middle of the valley, particularly-they rise into the mountains bounding the valley. They contain several thousand acres, nearly all of which are well cultivated, and have been for more than a hundred years. Isaac A. Chapman, writing of them in 1817, said : "They [the flats] spontaneously produce quantities of plus, grapes, many kinds of berries and a great variety of wild flowers."

* See in Chapter XV reproductions of views of and from Mount Lookont.

+ For interesting and instructive papers on the geology and palæontology of Wyoming Valley see Johnson's "Historical Record," I : 205, and "Proceedings and Collections of the Wyoming Historical and Geological Society," II : 239-277 ; V : 153-204; VI : 27-36; VIII : 25, 42.

These flats or plains are known by different names in different localities. Abraham's Plains-originally so named for an Indian chief, fuller mention of whom will be made in the succeeding chapter-lie on the right bank of the river and extend from near the head of the valley to the bend in the river opposite Ross Street, Wilkes-Barré. They are comprehended within the present limits of the townships of Plymouth, Kingston and Exeter, and, for convenience, have been for a number of years considered as three divisions, or sections, of land, com- inonly known, respectively, as Upper Kingston Flats, Lower Kingston Flats and Upper Plymouth Flats. Lower Plymouth, or "Shawnee," Flats lie within the limits of the township of Plymouth on the right bank of the river, and extend from a point opposite the central part of the borough of Plymouth south-westward to within about one and a-half miles of Nanticoke Falls. Col. Timothy Pickering-concerning whom much of interest will be found in subsequent chapters-visited Wyoming in August, 1786, and at the time wrote as follows relative to the Plymouth and Kingston flats (see "Life of Timothy Pickering," II : 255) :

"Leaving Harvey's [the home of Benjamin Harvey, about half-way between Harvey's Creek and the present Avondale] we entered on the Shawnee Plains, the most beautiful tract of land my eyes ever beheld ! The soil appears to be inexhaustibly fertile, and, though under very slovenly husbandry, the crops were luxuriant, and the Indian- corn and grass of the richest green. * *

* Passing over some commons and rising ground, we then came to another extensive plain [Abraham's], similar to the former, but, on the whole, less beautiful. Neat and industrious husbandmen would make the whole a garden."

Jacob's Plains-originally so named for an Indian chief, to whom further reference will be inade in Chapter IV-lie on the left bank of the river within the present limits of Plains Township. Nearly the whole of Jacob's Plains lay within the bounds of the original town, or township, of Wilkes-Barré, prior to the erection of Plains Township in 1851. Wilkes-Barré Flats lie within the limits of the city, below the bend of the river, and extend about a inile to the line of Hanover Town- ship ; whence they continue, under the name of Upper Hanover Flats, over one and a-half iniles to the mouth of Solomon's, or Buttonwood, Creek. Beyond this, for about three-quarters of a mile, a spur of the Hanover hills supervenes-ending at the river's margin in a low ledge of rocks-and then the Lower Hanover Flats begin and extend to the mouth of Nanticoke Creek.

Several islands, some of them of considerable extent, diversify the Susquehanna within the borders of Wyoming Valley. These islands are largely of the same alluvial and fertile character as the flats and plains previously described, and nearly all of them have been cultivated for many years. At the head of the valley, nearly abreast of the inouth of Lackawanna River, lies Scovell's Island. It received its name from Elisha and Jonathan Scovell (originally of Colchester, Connecticut), who, as early as 1776, were landholders and settlers in Exeter Township, to which this island is adjacent.

Wintermute Island, named for a family bearing that name-of whom more will be said in a subsequent chapter-lies due south-east of Mount Lookout (described on page 48), opposite the battlefield of Wyoming.

Monocanock Island is a long, narrow island opposite the lower end of the borough of Wyoming in Kingston Township, and a short

VIEW OF WILKES-BARRE FROM PROSPECT ROCK IN 1874.

now in possession of the present writer, this island is noted as "Toby's Island." It is also shown, but without a name, on the manuscript map of 1811 mentioned on page' 51. Pearce refers to it as "Park's Island" in his "Annals of Luzerne County" (page 173), published in 1860; but not long after that year the annexation of the island to the Plymouth shore was begun and completed by the same causes that have been gradually producing the changes in Fish's Island, and Toby's, or Park's, Island has not appeared on any recent map. The river, at that partic- ular elbow or corner, has long been known as Toby's Eddy. Sixty years ago and inore it was a picturesque locality, often resorted to in Summer-time by swimming and picnic parties. Dr. Peck, writing of it in 1858, said ("Wyoming," pages 425 and 426) :

"But alas ! progress and civilization have made sad ravages upon this sweet and beautiful spot. The railroad [Lackawanna and Bloomsburg] has utterly ruined its beautiful unity. Its jagged, rocky embankment, running through the center of the little natural paradise, has broken its ancient enchantments and dispelled the bewitching associations which clustered around it. * * What is called Toby's Cave is found in the hill-side west of the Eddy. It is not deep or large, but might once have constituted a place of retreat for old Toby, the Indian, whose haunts were once along the creek to which his name has been given, and who planted corn upon the flats above."

What is, and probably has been for many years, the largest island in Wyoming Valley, is the one whose upper end lies opposite the south- west corner of Wilkes-Barré on the left bank, and the north-west end of Plymouth Borough on the right bank of the river. This island is shown, but without a name, on the plots of the original surveys of the manors of Stoke and Sunbury previously referred to. On the draft of the 1787 survey of Plymouth Township mentioned above this island is called "Fuller's Island," and is noted as containing fifty acres and fifty- seven perches ; but on the manuscript map of 1811 mentioned on page 51 it is called "Richard's Island," and under this name it has appeared on recent maps. Further references to this island will be made in the succeeding chapter.

In its course through Wyoming Valley the Susquehanna receives the waters of a number of tributaries besides Lackawanna River. Not one of these is now either as sizable or of as much importance as it was even fifteen or twenty years ago. This is owing to one or more of a variety of causes-as for example, the denuding of the hills and moun- tains of their forests, the carrying on of coal-mining under or near the beds of the streams, or the deflecting of the waters, in part, from their channels for manufacturing, mining or other purposes. Chapman, in writing of these streams in 1817, said : "All of them are sufficient for mills and abound with fish." It is doubtful if there now flows in any two of them combined-barring Lackawanna River-enough water to run satisfactorily a single mill ; and as to fish, they are very few, very small, of little value and only to be found in the head-waters of the streams. Of those thuis referred to the principal streams are :

Abraham's Creek-called for the same Indian whose name was originally given, as previously mentioned, to the plains along the right bank of the river. This creek, having its principal source in Dallas Township, Luzerne County, and joined by tributaries rising in the townships of Franklin and Exeter, flows south-easterly into the valley through Carpenter's, or Shoemaker's, Hollow, previously described, and then winds its course nearly south-west across Abraham's Plains to the Susquehanna at Forty Fort, about one and three-quarters miles below

VIEW OF FISH'S ISLAND AND WILKES-BARRE FROM ROSS HII.L .. After a photograph taken in 1902.

Monocanock Island. In recent years the part of this creek that lies in the valley lias sometimes been called "Tuttle's Creek," from the fact that from about 1798 to 1839 Henry Tuttle, followed by his son Joseph, owned and operated a grist-mill which stood on the bank of the creek just below what is now known as the "stone-arched bridge," almost on the dividing line between the boroughis of Forty Fort and Wyoming. Toby's Creek-named for an Indian who lived in the valley at one time, and was well known to the early white settlers. Fur- ther mention of him is made in Chapters VII and XIII. Pearce, in his "Annals of Luzerne County" (page 170), says : "Toby's Creek derives its name from Tobyhanna, signifying alder stream, from the abundance of alders growing on its banks." This is rather a far- fetched derivation of the name of the Wyo- ming Valley stream. There is in Monroe County, Pennsylvania, at some distance from Wyoming Valley south- ABRAHAM'S CREEK, Near the "stone-arched bridge," in 1878. eastward, a stream call- ed Tobyhanna Creek- and it may be an "alder

stream"; but Toby's Creek has no connection with it either in name or in any other respect.

A GLIMPSE OF TOBY'S CREEK.

The chief sources of Toby's Creek are in Dallas Township, previ- ously mentioned, and the main body of the stream flows south-east into Kingston Township, where it is joined, among other branches, by one formed by the overflow from what in early days was known as Beaver Pond .* This pond, which lies in Lehman Township, Luzerne County, was purchased some years ago by the Wilkes-Barré Water Company, a dain was erected at its outlet, and the water from the reservoir thus formed-since known as Huntsville Reservoir-is conveyed in pipes to Wyomning Valley.} Rambling downward, here and there through picturesque bits of country, Toby's Creek enters the valley by way of Mill Hollow (mentioned on page 47), and, flowing south-west, passes through the boroughs of Kingston and Edwardsville into Plymouth Township. There, having been joined by a short branch that flows across the Lower Kingston Flats (partly within the limits of Dorrance- ton Borough) between Kingston Borough and Wilkes-Barré, the stream runs about a quarter of a mile and empties into the Susquehanna at Toby's Eddy, mentioned on page 52.

Harvey's Creek-so named nearly one hundred and thirty years ago for Benjamin Harvey, an early Connecticut settler at Wilkes-Barré, who, in 1773, erected a saw-mill and made other improvements upon a large tract of land that had been granted to him along and near the creek mentioned. At that time the source of this stream was unknown but in 1781 it was discovered by Mr. Harvey to be the large lake now -and since the year 1795, at least-called Harvey's Lake (mentioned on page 46). On the maps of 1748 and 1749 reproduced in Chapter IV this stream is shown, but without a name; on the plot of the Manor of Sunbury referred to on page 51 the stream appears under the name of "Head's Creek"; on the draft of a survey made in May, 1775, by Charles Stewart, Deputy Surveyor of Pennsylvania (an old copy of which is now in possession of the Wyoming Historical and Geological Society), the same stream is noted as "Falls Creek or Harvey's Creek," and on the manuscript inap mentioned on page 27 it is called "Harvey's or Falls Creek." From Harvey's Lake this creek runs a zig-zag course -receiving several small tributaries on the way-to a point some twelve miles directly south, near the base of Tillbury's Knob (described on page 48), where it enters the valley, flows a short distance through West Nanticoke and then empties into the Susquehanna at Nanticoke Falls. For many years Harvey's Creek was the most copious and powerful stream of all the Susquehanna's Wyoming Valley tributaries except Lackawanna River. That this was its character at an early day is shown by the following paragraph from a lettert to the Connecticut Susquehanna Company written in 1774 by Obadiah Gore, Jr., relative to this creek and the land contiguous to it : "There is no other stream of that bigness for many miles distance except the river." But now, at its mouth and for some distance up stream, the creek is so insignificant that its very rocky bed is more in evidence than its water-particularly during the Summer inonthis. This is due to the fact that the stream, two or three miles back from its mouth, has been dammed in order to furnish the borough of Nanticoke with its water-supply.

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A history of Wilkes-Barre, Luzerne County, Pennsylvania, from its first beginnings to the present time; including chapters of newly-discovered, Vol. I, Part 6

Author: Harvey, Oscar Jewell, 1851-1922; Smith, Ernest Gray Publication date: 1909-1930 Publisher: Wilkes-Barre : Raeder Press Number of Pages: 734

Author: Harvey, Oscar Jewell, 1851-1922; Smith, Ernest Gray
Publication date: 1909-1930
Publisher: Wilkes-Barre : Raeder Press
Number of Pages: 734