USA > Wisconsin > Columbia County > The history of Columbia county, Wisconsin, containing an account of its settlement > Part 89
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A local newspaper, announcing some of the principal business changes within the month, tells us that " Mr. Van Winter's Block, on Cook street, is now in working order, Mr. Van Winter having removed his stock round the corner into No. 1, and Messrs. Emmerson & McGrath having taken possession of No. 2. Messrs. B. & S. Schwartz, finding their three stores, on the east side of the canal, too small for their stock, have taken the one recently vacated by Mr. Van Winter. J. Servis & Co. (newcomers in town) have taken the store formerly occupied by G. W. Babcock, in Pettibone's Block, which they have filled with ready- made clothing. Mr. Babcock has changed his quarters to Verandah Block, in the store hereto- fore occupied by J. B. Miller. O. Case still offers bargains at the 'People's Store,' formerly
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known as Anderson's." At that date, the population of Portage was 4,364. It is not surpris- ing that new additions to the city and new stores and manufactories were so frequently announced. Building did not cease through the entire winter (and it was a cold one). A pub- lic sale of real estate took place the day after Christmas, at which $13,000 changed hands for city lots, most of the purchasers proceeding immediately to rear houses thereon.
The panicky condition of affairs in 1857 had its effect upon the progress of Portage. There was noticeably less activity in all kind of business. Real estate ceased to advance in price, there was less demand for building material, money became scarce, cash customers were in greater demand and the people moved cautiously. The end of the speculative era had arrived. Then commenced the substantial and permanent period of the young city's growth. The com- pletion of the La Crosse & Milwaukee Railroad and the spanning of the Wisconsin River with the great bridge in this year are important items in the history of Portage. It was cause for congratulation that the citizens had never voted the credit of the city, except to aid in the building of the bridge, and, while other cities and villages were struggling to meet their bonded obligations, Portage occupied the enviable position of a brilliant exception in the matter of indebtedness. Private capital was no less plenty than in years past, but there was less of it in sight.
In the spring of 1858, in spite of the hard times, there were from fifty to eighty buildings being erected, many of them of brick, of the most substantial character. Labor, lumber and lots had become as good a circulating medium as coin itself. Lumber men bought lots, built houses and paid in lumber ; laborers obtained lumber and building lots in exchange for work, while land-owners contracted for work, lumber and other material, and gave an equivalent in lots.
In 1859, the assessed real and personal property, in the city of Portage, was valued at $588,169. A correspondent draws the following picture : "Seven years ago, I entered Portage on a lumber-wagon, after a tedious four days journey from Milwaukee. What is now a large, well-built city, with an enterprising population, was then an unreclaimed waste, dotted by a few straggling houses. Its growth has been almost magical. It contains many structures that would do honor to a much larger city. The churches, especially, are unusually fine edifices, and speak well for the intelligence and morality of the inhabitants. There are also several large blocks built in a substantial and tasteful manner. The color of the brick made here is the same as that of the far-famed Milwaukee brick, and gives to the place a cheerful and pleasing appearance."
The war of the rebellion came, and the unparelleled progress that has always character- ized the history of Portage was again temporarily checked. The implements of industry were laid aside, and the destructive weapons of war taken up. Hundreds of the best men composing the thriving population gave up their pursuits of peace and joined the grand army to aid in obliterating treason. Many of them never returned. A new generation has grown up. Con- fidence in the integrity of the Government has been fully restored. The rays of a new indus- trial era are just beginning to shed their welcome splendor over the battlements of progress. Portage, through all the tribulations that resulted disastrously to other cities, has not receded. Her commercial supremacy has been steadily maintained. Her reverses have simply checked, not diminished, her prosperity. She boasts of shrewd and enterprising merchants. All that is now lacking is the development of the manufacturing advantages she naturally possesses, she being, as it were, the "half-way house " of Wisconsin.
PORTAGE THIRTY YEARS AGO.
Fort Winnebago, in 1850, claimed a population of 300 or 400 inhabitants, but had, by actual count, probably 200; and no small share of these were merely transient stoppers in the place. There were three villages then-the little collection of houses under the hill this side of the Fox River at the fort, the little hamlet down the plank road at the United States Hotel, and what is now the site of the city. A Detroit firm, Webb & Bronson, had bought and platted
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a large tract, including a portion of what is now the Second Ward, and extending nearly to the fort ; and for a long time the proprietors did not give up the idea that over near the fort was to be the future city ; for none of the inhabitants even then doubted that Portage was to be an important point. In that little burg were to be found Henry and G. H. Merrell, in the dry- goods and grocery business ; L. Berry, in the same line; A. Sheret, we believe, Bully O'Neil, the tinker, in the tin business, and somebody running a blacksmith-shop. The post office for this whole section of country, with a semi-weekly mail, was also over there, and was kept by G. T. Getty, and John Graham was the first clerk. M. R. Keegan and C. H. Moore held forth in the old Government building at the left of the bridge, on the opposite side of the river, and ran a grocery and provision store ; F. Steber occupying one corner of the store as a watch- maker and jeweler. Mr. Moore afterward conducted a store on his own account on Canal street, just in the rear of the building afterward occupied by N. M. Henry. Later, he pulled up stakes and went West. Mr. Steber also soon after removed over and continued in the jew- elry business until his death in 1872. Dr. Prentice lived at the fort, in one of the officers' buildings, at the right of the road, and practiced his profession. He also, a few years later, removed "into town," where he still resides. C. D. Hottenstein, also physician and surgeon, resided in that locality as well ; but in 1856 or 1857, removed to Columbia, Penn. William Spain resided at the fort, and occupied his time in civil engineering. James Chancellor, now of St. Louis, taught school there during the week, and preached on Sundays. Erastus Cook lived in a little house on the avenue in front of the Franklin House. He and a Mr. Burnham kept a little store near the Franklin House. Capt. Low lived in the old agency building.
The Franklin House was a somewhat noted hotel, and for a short time was kept by Mr. Ahlum, who removed to California the same year. He was succeeded by Burnham & Armsby as proprietors, and, a little later in the year, Aaron Thompson, afterward Marshal of the city, assumed control. John Graham acted as clerk for Ahlum, and Charlie Thompson officiated for his father as clerk, hostler and " bar keep."
The post office was, late that year or early the following year, removed over to " Gouge- ville," as Uncle Henry Carpenter delighted to call this portion of the town, and was kept in the store of T. Dean & Co .- N. W. Dean, of Madison, being the Co .- and John H. Clark was the post office clerk. L. Berry succeeded Mr. Dean as Postmaster. Thad. Dean, in 1852, went over the Plains to California, but in a few years returned.
The little burg at the fort was not entirely abandoned for a number of years after, but no traces of a town are now left, the buildings having either rotted down or been removed.
Uncle Carpenter's town down the plank road, consisted of a dry-goods store, kept by himself, with O. P. Williams, as clerk ; the Wisconsin House, kept by M. Van Winter; the old United States Hotel, with mine host Carpenter as proprietor ; one or two private houses ; and a first-class steamboat landing. Mr. Van Winter continued there for a time, but yielding gradually to the onward march of progress in this direction, he first removed half-way up and located a store about where the channel of the Wisconsin River now is, and afterward abandoned the flat entirely, came into town and erected the handsome brick block now occupied by Loomis, Gallett & Breese, as a dry-goods store.
On the morning of the 2d of February, 1852, the old United States Hotel, located a few rods south of the presant building, was destroyed by fire. In the hall of this building, Lan- grische & Atwater and the elder Adams' theatrical troupes used to delight the natives in the rendition of tragedies that would make a saint weep and a Winnebago Indian lay his tomahawk down at the foot-lights. It is related that Moses MI. Strong, being present at one of these entertainments, was called out by the boys and responded by " You'd scarce expect one of my age to speak in public on the stage, etc.," which called forthi rounds of applause. And here, too. the young folks, together with the festive old devotees of Terpsichore, occasionally assembled and " hoed it down" with great animation and delight. It may be mentioned, also, that in this building historic tradition hath it that the first white child was born in the city-George Carpenter.
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Portage proper was confined, principally, to a limit east of De Witt street and south of Pleasant, with a few scattering houses to Ketchum's Point, and about an equal number south of the canal. That year, Edwin Sylvester erected the Washington House on the corner south of where now stands the First Ward Schoolhouse, John Graham officiating as clerk. Perry Lee afterward became proprietor, and ran the hotel till it was burned in 1859 or 1860. Theophilus Muelhause (old Louis) acted as hostler for him for a number of years. R. Twentyman erected a building in the opposite block, and opened a store. He soon left for England, and died in two hours after reaching his home. Stewart & Anderson, with Hoppock & Greenwood, of New York, opened a store in the building opposite Hank James' old ball alley. The firm never got rich there, but were always happy, and Harve would always be in fashion if he never laid up a cent. A steam mill by Campbell, Buchanan & Murison was in contemplation, and partially constructed that fall. These, together with a few isolated buildings, constituted nearly all south of the canal.
That which has become so beautiful and thickly settled a residence, as well as business por- tion of the town, was then straggling enough ; and its residents were exceedinfily sensitive as to any intimation that north of the canal, on the ridge, was not the center of Portage, and, possibly of the State. The feeling between the different localities was oftentimes bitter, and men's interests in one or the other little hamlet had entirely too much to do with the opinions of each other. It is strange now to remember that such strong jealousies ever existed. The main institutions on the present site of the city were Uncle Dick Veeder's tavern, C. B. Smith's store and a liberty pole. The town was then, however, as now, rich in saloons, for the population. Main street was the principal business street. Veeder's tavern stood opposite the old barn, and in 1860, together with the new and commodious structure of that name, was consumed by fire. In the old " tavern," for "Uncle Dick" never allowed any one to speak of it as an "hotel " without a rebuke, there were many incidents, and much of interest which would repay a recital, but would fill a volume. The old house was known far and wide, and was the favorite stopping place of lumbermen in their weary return from Galena and other points below, long before emigra- tion set this way. E. B. Treadwell was the faithful and obliging clerk. C. B. Smith's store was the store of the place. Smith was a rollicking genius, and exactly suited to work up a lively trade with the equally rollicking and devil-may-care community. During the summer months, his goods were transported by river, from Galena, by the old steamer Enterprise, a stern-wheeler of no mean pretensions at that early day. She made regular weekly trips, was well patronized and did a thrifty and profitable business. In the fall, Elias Thomas inaugurated the system of hauling goods by team, from Milwaukee, for Smith, and the succeeding years witnessed an immense business in that line, which was continued until superseded by the iron horse in the winter of 1856. Lorenzo Burger clerked for him and afterward went to California. Riley Moulton also clerked for Smith, and afterward married his widow. They removed to New Lisbon, where Mrs. Moulton died. A little later, the store of Smith was occupied by Isaac Brill, a dry-goods and clothing store, and in the winter of 1851 or 1852, was destroyed by fire.
The spring and summer of 1850 wittnessed the coming, from Ohio, of C. J. Pettibone, C. G. McCulloch, George Wall, John A. Johnson, E. L. Jæger and perhaps others. Mr. Pettibone opened a store in an old building. He brought on a large stock of dry goods, groceries, etc., and opened for awhile, without, however, very flettering success. He finally, with a portion of his goods, started for Madison. On his way down he became mud-bound, and, while absent, his wise disposed of barrels of sugar, and other goods in proportion, to customers 80 and 100 miles north. On his return, with this flattering evidence of business, he concluded to remain. He succeeded beyond expectation, and he here laid the foundation for a large fortune. Mr. E. L. Jæger was the head clerk for him at that time, and remained with him for a number of years thereafter. McCulloch soon became the leading druggist and was located at the head of Main street and on the north side of Conant, and Dr. Best ran a smaller establishment of the kind further down the street, and also practiced at his profession. Fred. A. Peabody, a wide-awake Yankee, ran a grocery on Main street. Mr. Brewer run a butcher-shop on the opposite side.
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while Dave Morgan and a curly-headed mulatto ran a barber-shop a door or two below Dr. Best's. . Frank Winnie was shoeing horses on Conant street. John Gates came in the fall of 1850, and opened the "Janesville store," in a building opposite the City IIotel, on Cook street. Mr. Older came with him. Mr. Gates " organized" the first dray in town. George and Robert Norris run a tin-shop next door to Mr. Gates. The Times office was opened in a building which then stood on Cook street. It was afterward removed to Canal street.
The legal fraternity was represented then by John Delancy, M. D. Ingraham, D. J. M. Loop, L. Van Slyck, Alvah Hand, Judge Kellogg, W. R. De Witt, A. C. Ketchum, J. A. Johnson and L. S. Dixon. John Delaney was eminent in his profession, and was widely known as a politician. M. D. Ingraham was another gifted and brilliant young man, whom all old settlers remember well, and his death, a year later, was universally lamented. D. J. M. Loop-and who, of all old neighbors, cannot remember him? Van Slyck was Justice then, and Loop practiced in Van's court, and it was Van's chief delight, when the frisky little disci- ple of Blackstone became enraged and unruly, to take him by the nape of his neck and the seat of his pants and throw him bodily through the window into the street. Alvah Hand, ever faith- ful to his client, continued the practice here till his death, which event occurred several years ago. Judge Kellogg died in 1874 at Rio. De Witt went West in search of another "rattle- trap " farm in 1860. A. C. Ketchum went to Memphis. John A. Johnson was the first part- ner of L. S. Dixon. Judge Dixon came late in the fall of 1850, fresh from the Vermont University, and the law school at Ballston Spa, we think. and here laid the foundation for the eminence he subsequently achieved at the bar and on the bench
The town was soon full of mechanics, among them Alexander Carnagie. Alexander Chrystie and a man named Johnson ran a carpenter-shop on the corner near the City Hotel, and the building was afterward occupied by Col. Vaughan (brother-in-law to LeRoy Gates), a daguerrian, who removed to the Territories years later. H. Sexton and L. S. Thompson car- ried on the furniture business at Hollenbeck's old stand.
The first and only schoolhouse, at that time, excepting the Portage High School, with Mrs. Butz (afterward Mrs. Cornwall) as Principal, was situated in a small building and Delos Brown was the pedagogue.
The Presbyterians were the only denomination who could afford a church building, and Rev. W. W. McNair, who was the only preacher living there, preached the first season, at least, to the greater portion of the church-going community. Jenny Lind Williams used to come in eight or ten miles each Sunday to preside at the organ. The church stood on Cook street, nearly opposite the jail. Mr. McNair built and lived in the Doty House, and a few years after removed to the northwest part of the State. Williams is dead.
The construction of the canal between the two rivers, by the State, was then in progress, and a large number of laborers were attracted hither seeking employment, which was readily obtained. Thomas Reynolds had the contract for the work proper, while Gelson McNeal con- structed the locks. Charlie Kingsbury, of St. Joseph, Mo., was in charge of the dredge boat. then working its way up the Fox, and a Mr. Alton was chief engineer, and had general super- vision over all. The first boat through the canal was the steamer John L. Mitchell, which event occurred May 23, 1851. The appearance of the boat called out quite a concourse of peo- ple who gazed upon it in wonder and indulged in extravagant predictions as to the future. The first steamboat whistle ever heard on the "Wisconse" in this region, was that of the old Enter- prise. Perry Williams was the first man to catch the shrill sound. Never having heard its like before, Perry mistook the sound for the cries of some drowning raftsman in the last agonies of despair, secured a skiff and started to his relief. An experienced riverman happening along, informed Perry that he was a "cussed dunce and had better go West," or words to that effect. C. W. Mappa erected the first warehouse, which stood opposite the upper lock on the river bank. It afterward toppled over and was long since removed.
Capt. William Weir then took the fort under his protecting wing, as captain of the post in charge, and guarded faithfully and well the interests of " Uncle Sam."
PORTAGE, CITY.
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Michel Brisbois lived where John Graham's new brick block now stands. Mrs. B. was the daughter of Pierre Pauquette. Valentine Helmann was then shoving the jack-plane, while Owen, John and Larey Ward, Tom Dalton, Pat Sheehan, Jack Maloney and others, were like-wise engaged when not studying the sand bars and intricate channel of the "old Wis- conse."
Of those not already mentioned, there were La Fayette Van Dusen, Dr. Seaman and Henry Ensign. All three are living in the Golden State. Of others now absent or dead, there are remembered Dr. F. W. Miller (an excellent physician, trusty friend and esteemed citizen), L. Cornwell, Amasa Wilson, E. Childs, J. M. Crawford, Deputy Sheriff Spoor, Dan Boylan, Jim Scott, Doc. Rollins, Dick Lamb, Thornton Thompson, Gale Anderson, Sam Carpenter, Charlie McNeal, D. B. Peck, Uncle Major Linn, Col. Morehouse and family, John Lodge, J. B. Sand- derson, W. E. Waite, and last, though perhaps least, in size, little Sam Pearsoll.
The spring and summer witnessed the coming of a large number who have since been identified as among the city's most prominent citizens : J. J. Guppey, Josiah Arnold, J. B. Fargo, G. N. Richmond, Samuel Edwards, R. O. Loomis, H. S. Haskell, Milo and William Pettibone, A. B. Alden, O. Ward and others. Guppey then, as now, was County Judge. Not that he has held the office continuously since that time, for, be it remembered, he was an active participant in the late war, first entering the service as Lieutenant Colonel of the Tenth Regiment, and afterward assuming command of the Twenty-third, as Colonel.
Felix McLinden, " when the sun was low," assisted Samuel Reynolds about the improve- ment, and officiated in those days as Sergeant-at-arms of the Assembly. In a little building on Main street, N. H. Wood ran an auction store. H. G. Hansen and O. C. Bellrude kept a shoe-shop on Conant street, at the head of Main, and Thomas Buttrey had a similar institu- tion, also on Conant street. Among other ancient "landmarks" deserving a passing notice were old Jo Robinson and old Uncle Lord, both graduates from the military post at Fort Winnebago.
The jumping of claims was of daily occurrence, and a street fight or a " knock-down" among the contestants for a corner lot was a frequent and indeed animating pastime ; and may we not be pardoned for incidentally mentioning, at this late day, that we also occasionally " got one in under the ear," ourselves, but always, however, in defense of an honest claim. “Oh. dem was good times." The whole town site west of De Witt street, with occasionally here and there a house, was then in its primeval condition, being almost entirely covered with under- growth. Main, and the east end of Cook, Conant and a little settlement in the Third Ward on Pleasant street were in town, and anywhere outside of them seemed like going into the country. Down by Hærtel's Brewery, Emder's, the bank corner and Corning's store, pigeons were hunted among the then dense oak-trees, with no indifferent success. Mr. Whitney, one of the early pioneers (who died a year or two after), resided in a little frame house fronting on Canal street. The house formerly stood where Emder's Hotel now stands, and Whitney's always had a little wheat-field in his inclosure. Beyond Mr. Whitney's and near the upper lock, resided old Mr. Dempsey, who afterward removed to Lewiston, and, a few years ago, while fulfilling a contract for wood with us, fell from a load, was run over and instantly killed. A little further up and just beyond the lock, stood the building so long occupied by O. P. Will- iams as a residence, and which was afterward burned. In this house lived Hugh McFarlane, and in one end of the same he conducted a store. Here John Delany was dividing his time in reading law and waiting on any stray customer who chanced to favor him with a call. In the upper part of the building, Mrs. Cornwell conducted the Portage High School, an institution which was alike creditable to the enterprising citizens and its accomplished preceptress. From McFarlane's it was a short half-mile walk through the woods to the house of the late Andrew Dunn. Dunn, McFarlane and William Armstrong were early pioneers, and laid claim to a large tract of land, embracing the most of that part of the city. McFarlane was Portage's first representative in the assembly, and in making laws for the "boys" and advocating the inter- ests of his constituents in general, proved himself a valuable member. Dunn, in 1857 or
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1858, removed to New Lisbon, and, a few years later, died in the insane asylum at Madison. Across Silver Lake a mile from Dunn's, was, and still is, Conrad Collipp, the happy possessor of a valuable tract of land which has, under his supervision, been improved and beautified, and also increased in value tenfold. Samuel Slifer was Mr. Collipp's nearest neighbor. He died in 1851. Patrick Carroll made claim to what is now known as the Pettibone farm on the hill half a mile cast from Collipp's. There was no road there in those days, the new pinery road not having been laid out until a year or two after. Benjamin Schulze made his claim that year, and was then living, as now, in the Second Ward. Out on the old pinery road, Coop. Lemour, from Canada, stuck his stakes and erected a small brick house, and, still further on, Enoch Pixley, also from Canada, pitched his tent and soon thereafter erected a brick building, and, for a time, ran a hotel for the accommodation of the pinery trade. These two buildings were the only brick structures in the whole village. Lemour removed to California in 1858. Bemus J. Pixley lived out in the bush opposite Mayor Gallett's residence, and James Marrs lived in the old dilapidated building in front of H. S. Haskell's. Solomon Leach and O. F. Waggoner landed here some time subsequent to the flood. Mr. Leach is rightfully entitled to the honor of building the first saw-mill which was situated on the island in the river opposite his house above the bridge. The mill was noted chiefly for its speed, the saw running on the same time-table with the Oxford stage, up one day and down the next. Mr. Waggoner for a year maintained the ferry across the river where the bridge now stands. He afterward located on the bluff which now bears his name, four miles up the river, but having a natural love for the attractions of the frontiersman's life, he soon thereafter moved further to the front. These half-dozen residents composed about all of what now constitutes the thickly settled and popu- lous Fourth and Fifth Wards. Communication with the outside world was then by Frink & Walker's stage line to Madison, and the Veeder House, which was the stage house, oftentimes swarmed with travelers and river men on their way to the pinery.
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