Biographical and historical memoirs of Pulaski, Jefferson, Lonoke, Faulkner, Grant, Saline, Perry, Garland and Hot Spring counties, Arkansas, comprising a condensed history of the statebiographies of distinguished citizens...[etc.], Part 84

Author: Goodspeed, firm, publishers, Chicago. (1886-1891. Goodspeed publishing Company)
Publication date: 1889
Publisher: Chicago, St. Louis [etc.] The Goodspeed publishing co.
Number of Pages: 826


USA > Arkansas > Faulkner County > Biographical and historical memoirs of Pulaski, Jefferson, Lonoke, Faulkner, Grant, Saline, Perry, Garland and Hot Spring counties, Arkansas, comprising a condensed history of the statebiographies of distinguished citizens...[etc.] > Part 84
USA > Arkansas > Garland County > Biographical and historical memoirs of Pulaski, Jefferson, Lonoke, Faulkner, Grant, Saline, Perry, Garland and Hot Spring counties, Arkansas, comprising a condensed history of the statebiographies of distinguished citizens...[etc.] > Part 84
USA > Arkansas > Grant County > Biographical and historical memoirs of Pulaski, Jefferson, Lonoke, Faulkner, Grant, Saline, Perry, Garland and Hot Spring counties, Arkansas, comprising a condensed history of the statebiographies of distinguished citizens...[etc.] > Part 84
USA > Arkansas > Hot Spring County > Biographical and historical memoirs of Pulaski, Jefferson, Lonoke, Faulkner, Grant, Saline, Perry, Garland and Hot Spring counties, Arkansas, comprising a condensed history of the statebiographies of distinguished citizens...[etc.] > Part 84
USA > Arkansas > Jefferson County > Biographical and historical memoirs of Pulaski, Jefferson, Lonoke, Faulkner, Grant, Saline, Perry, Garland and Hot Spring counties, Arkansas, comprising a condensed history of the statebiographies of distinguished citizens...[etc.] > Part 84
USA > Arkansas > Lonoke County > Biographical and historical memoirs of Pulaski, Jefferson, Lonoke, Faulkner, Grant, Saline, Perry, Garland and Hot Spring counties, Arkansas, comprising a condensed history of the statebiographies of distinguished citizens...[etc.] > Part 84
USA > Arkansas > Perry County > Biographical and historical memoirs of Pulaski, Jefferson, Lonoke, Faulkner, Grant, Saline, Perry, Garland and Hot Spring counties, Arkansas, comprising a condensed history of the statebiographies of distinguished citizens...[etc.] > Part 84
USA > Arkansas > Pulaski County > Biographical and historical memoirs of Pulaski, Jefferson, Lonoke, Faulkner, Grant, Saline, Perry, Garland and Hot Spring counties, Arkansas, comprising a condensed history of the statebiographies of distinguished citizens...[etc.] > Part 84
USA > Arkansas > Saline County > Biographical and historical memoirs of Pulaski, Jefferson, Lonoke, Faulkner, Grant, Saline, Perry, Garland and Hot Spring counties, Arkansas, comprising a condensed history of the statebiographies of distinguished citizens...[etc.] > Part 84


Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).


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The political aspect of the county may be seen by reference to the following number of votes cast for the candidates named at the late elections:


In September, 1888, for Governor, James P. Eagle, Democrat, 1,614; C. M. Norwood, com- bined opposition, 1,189; in November, 1888, for President, Cleveland, Democrat, 1,196; Harrison, Republican, 987; Streeter, Union Labor. 60.


The act creating Garland County placed it in the Seventh judicial district, which is now composed of the counties of Perry, Saline, Garland, Hot Spring and Grant. The circuit court of Garland County convenes in regular session on the fourth Mondays of March and September; the county court on the first Mondays of January, April, June and October; the probate court on the second Mon- days of the same months: and the common pleas court on the first Mondays of March, June, Sep- tember and December; J. B. Wood is the present judge of the judicial district, and J. P. Hender- son, prosecuting attorney.


The following named attorneys constitute the


-


r


529


GARLAND COUNTY.


local legal bar of Garland County: George J. Sum- mers, E. W. Rector, G. G. Latta. John J. Sump- ter, G. W. Murphy. J. M. Harrell, J. D. Kimbell, J. H. Scrogins, J. P. Henderson, Leland Leather- man, C. V. Teague, Charles D. Greaves, Reid Gantt, A. J. Murphy, Z. T. Ralston, J. P. Mel- lard, L. D. Beldin and Samnel Hamblin.


At the beginning of the Civil War in 1861 the small number of people then inhabiting the terri- tory now composing Garland County were nearly, if not all, in sympathy with the Southern canse, and a large percentage of them joined the Con- federate army and did what they could toward establishing the proposed Southern Confederacy. In September, 1863, when Gen. Price withdrew from Little Rock, upon the occupation of that place by the Federal army, under Gen. Steele, a portion of his (Price's) army moved back by way of Hot Springs. Afterward, when Gen. Steele advanced from Little Rock in pursuit of Price, and when in turn he fell back to Little Rock pur- sued by Price, a portion of the armies passed by way of Hot Springs. Prior to the fall of 1863 the citizens here suffered but little, if any, from the presence of the armies or their scouts, but after that, until the close of the war, the territory was overrun to some extent by scouts and guerrillas. However, aside from being deprived of certain pro- visions, the people here suffered to a less extent on account of the war than in many other sections of the country.


The discovery of the springs of hot water at this place by De Soto's Spaniards, in their vain search for gold, and the "Fountain of Perpetual Youth," is mentioned in the State History of this work. No permanent settlement of the place, however, was made until years after the beginning of the nineteenth century. As early as 1809, and perhaps a little earlier, John Purcival, a hunter and trapper, settled on the bank of the Ouachita River, about seven miles southeast of the hot springs, where he remained for many years, and was undoubtedly the first settler of what is now Garland County. That year (1809) two families came from New Orleans, located in the Hot Springs Valley and built the first cabins there. It is said


they took a pre-emption right to a tract of land including the springs and the valley. The right, however, was never recognized by the Government. After remaining here a year and a half these fam- ilies transferred their cabins and assumed rights to John Parcival, and then left the place. From this time forward for many years, though not regularly nor extensively, parties came from the Sonth to spend the hot summer months at the springs and enjoy the cool atmosphere of the mountains. They came to avoid the heat at their Southern homes, and regarded the place more as a summer resort than as a sanitarium for their ills. But by bath- ing in the hot water that flowed from the springs, its curative qualities were discovered. While re- maining here, these early visitors rented the cabins from John Purcival.


About the year 1826 A. N. Sabin came from New York and settled on Sulphur Creek, east of Hot Springs Mountain, and soon thereafter built a small water power mill there. He was a singular man; lived like a hermit, and was afterward judge and also clerk of Hot Spring County, then in- cluding what is now Garland. The next perma- nent settler was Ludivicus Beldin (formerly of Boston. Mass., and subsequently of Indiana), who came to Hot Springs in 1828, with his wife and two or three children. The Purcival cabins were then vacant. and Mr. Beldin got permission of Purcival to use them. He also built others, and opened a little store, exchanging provisions for peltry, etc., and kept the first hotel (or tavern) in a double log house with a wide hall, or "entry." between the two rooms. Prior to 1832 he moved to his farm in Sulphur Township, where he died in 1833. In 1832 the hotel was kept by Hawkins and Rambo, and the next year it was kept by two brothers, by the name of Physic, who came from Baltimore, Md. This hotel stood nearly opposite the present Big Iron Bath-house.


The early visitors to the springs were mostly wealthy planters from Mississippi and Louisiana, and citizens of New Orleans, who came only to spend the summer months; hence, prior to and continuing into the 30's, the hotel and cabins at the springs were closed np, and abandoned dur-


6


530


HISTORY OF ARKANSAS.


ing the winters. Maj. Whittington says that when sit upon; the niche was covered overhead with rocks or boards, and in front with a blanket. This place answered very well for taking a vapor bath; but as cooling room was a little large, embracing all of "out of doors." It is presumed, as a matter of course, that vapor baths were not often taken then in cold weather. About fifty feet south of this there stood a log bath-house, with one plank tub in it, and a hundred yards still farther south, at the foot of the mountain, was placed another log bath house, with a single wooden tub. These were the only bathing facilities, excepting open pools in the creek, early in the 30's, but in 1839 he came here he made the acquaintance of a visitor who claimed to have spent the summer of 1812 in company with about sixty others at the springs. They camped in the Purcival cabins and in tents. That was the time when the Tories or British sympathizers were refugeeing with the Indians in the "Western Wilds," and perhaps some of them were here. In 1832, when Maj. Whittington "(whose biography appears elsewhere in this work) came to this place, John Purcival claimed to own the hot springs and the cabins, though he lived on his farm on the Ouachita, near Lawrence Station. where he died about the year 1836. Some time : the number of bath houses, small and rude as they prior to his death he built a water-power saw-mill on Hot Springs Creek, a short distance below the springs, and at a point now within the city limits. After her husband's death Mrs. Purcival kept the hotel at Hot Springs a year or two, and then it was kept for a time by Samuel Rayburn. About the year 1840 John C. Hale settled in the valley, and bought out the Purcival interest and erected the second hotel, a small two-story frame house. * At this time there were about a dozen families in and about the village.


In 1832 Phil. Physic had a little store, and the following year Maj. Whittington opened a store, and for the next ten years did nearly all the mer- cantile business of the place. In 1833 Whitting- ton was appointed postmaster and magistrate of Hot Springs, and from that year to 1835 he was also clerk of Hot Spring County. In 1832 the bathing facilities were as follows: Directly in front of the site of the present Arlington House, and below one of the hot springs, there was a cavity cut into the rock. into which the water ran. This was used as a bathing pool, and had no covering except the bushes with which it was surrounded. The first and only vapor bath facility then was a niche cut into the rock at the base of the mountain where the Big Iron Bath-house now stands. The hot water was conveyed into a pool under an open floor, over which was a rude seat for the bather to


# The valley here referred to lies between Hot Springs Mountain and West Mountain, and extends from Happy Hollow, just above the Arlington, down Central Avenue to Bridge Street.


were. had increased to five. That year William Chase and his wife came from New York and set- tled at Hot Springs, and he erected another bath- house. In 1845 Mr. Chase moved his family to his farm, about six miles east of Hot Springs, where he afterward died, leaving his widow on the farm, where she has ever since resided, and is now liv- ing, her ninetieth year of age being completed in January, 1890. Being born in January, 1800, she has traveled along with the years of the century; is vigorous in intellect, and has fair health for one of such advanced age. May she live to complete the century. At her residence is a celebrated mineral spring known as the "Iron Spring."


During the 30's there were no doctors living at Hot Springs, nor were there any nearer than Little Rock. Maj. Whittington kept in his store, a small supply of such medicines as the people generally administered without the aid of physi- cians. The healthfulness of this place and the surrounding country is so remarkably good, that, were it not for the invalids who resort hither, there would be but little use for doctors. John C. Hale, whose arrival has been mentioned, built a plank bath-house in connection with his new hotel. This was abont 1840, and to Mr. Hale is due the credit for making the first modern improvements in Hot Springs in the way of buildings. No fur- ther improvements in bathing facilities, except the putting in of a few more tubs, were made until after the close of the Civil War. Abont the year 1840, a Mr. Kempner opened a store in the lower


531


GARLAND COUNTY.


end of the Hot Springs Valley, and continued to run it for some years. Rosson Runyon also settled in Hot Springs about 1840. In 1851 Maj. Will- iam H. Gaines came to this place and soon there- after married Maria Beldin, a daughter of the old settler of 1828, Mr. Ludivicus Beldin. Mr. and Mrs. Gaines are still living in Hot Springs, and both have been intimately connected with its his- tory. The Major is now ninety-three years of age, has a vigorous intellect, is in fair health, and is believed to be the oldest person living in Garland County. His wife was six years old when she came to Hot Springs with her parents in 1828, consequently she is now sixty-seven years of age. and the last survivor of the very early settlers, having lived in this vicinity longer than any other person.


In 1860 the village of Hot Springs consisted of a few bathing houses, a hotel, one or two little stores, a grocery, or more properly a grogery, and a few dwelling houses. When the war came on, especially when the Federal army advanced to Little Rock and the Confederate army fell back therefrom, the village and vicinity became almost entirely deserted. Rosson Runyon, Anson Sabin and Mrs. Chase were the only white persons who continued in the vicinity. Sabin was killed but the other two remained through the war period unmolested. A few colored servants also stayed. During the war the buildings of the village were nearly all consumed by fire, so that at the end thereof there existed only the Akin House, which stood opposite and a little above where the Big Iron Bath house now stands, the Gaines cottage (which remains at this writing) and the residence of Maj. Whittington and J. W. Parker. The Whittington residence is also standing at this time. From the fall of 1863 to the close of the war the valley of the Hot Springs was a dreary and deserted place, where the owls and bats "car- ried on their nightly vigils."


After the close of that struggle, the former occupants of the place, nearly all of whom had refugeed to Louisiana and Texas, returned, and, with the exception of Maj. Whittington and Maj. Gaines, looked upon the ashes of their former


homes. Not disheartened they went to work to re- trieve their lost fortunes, and a few of them have been wonderfully successful, having amassed large amounts of property. Jake Kempner, George Belding* and M. C. O'Brien were the first to open up and re-establish merchandising. John C. Hale erected the first bath-house. Akins and Stidham opened the hotel and rented a bath-house, and ex- Gov. H. M. Rector also erected a bath-house. The Sumpter brothers, William and John, and their mother built a small house now adjoining the Sump- ter Hotel and began to keep boarders. Soon there- after immigration from the North set in, and in- valids from all parts of the country came hither to bathe in the healing waters, and the place began to grow more rapidly. By the year 1870, it had acquired a population of over 1,000 and in 1880, according to the United States census reports, it had 3,554 souls. Its most rapid growth, however, has been since the latter date, its population now being estimated at from 10,000 to 12,000.


Hot Springs Reservation was surveyed and laid out according to an act of Congress, approved March 3, 1877, entitled "An Act in relation to the Hot Springs Reservation in the State of Ar- kansas," and an act reviving and amending the same, approved December 16, 1878. The survey having been made, the map was completed in De- cember, 1879. Aaron H. Cragin, John Coburn and M. L. Stearns were the commissioners super- intending the work, and A. P. Robinson, chief engineer of the survey. The map was published by Charles Cutter. The reservation thus laid out is two miles square, and embraces and covers the south half of Sections 28 and 29, and the whole of Sections 32 and 33, in Township 2 south, Range 19 west; and the north half of Sections 4 and 5, in Township 3 south, and the same range west, corresponding with the corporate limits of the city of Hot Springs. It was laid out as a grand and extensive park, and contains 196 blocks of various sizes, which are subdivided into lots, aver- aging in size from small business lots to tracts, embracing several acres each. The principal av- enues, and many of the less important streets, are


#Belding not Beldin.


Se


532


HISTORY OF ARKANSAS.


laid out with graceful and natural curves, being governed by the contour of the ground.


The reservation contains a portion of North Mountain, nearly all of Hot Springs Mountain, Sugar Loaf Mountain, and a portion of West Mountain. The latter, with Sugar Loaf as an ex- tension thereof. has the form of a horseshoe, and lies with the points toward the northeast. Its eastern extremity comes down to the Hot Springs Valley, which is near the center of the reservation. From this point it extends in a southwesterly di- rection beyond the city limits, and there curves to the right and returns again with its other point (Sugar Loaf) covering the northwest part of the reservation. Hot Springs Mountain has an oblong- oval form, its length extending in a northeasterly direction. It lies in the eastern half of the re- servation, and its western extremity forms the eastern bank of Hot Springs Valley. This valley is about 100 rods in length, lies almost dne north and south, and is just wide enough to admit a wide avenue through its center and a row of buildings on each of its sides. North Mountain lies north- west of Hot Springs Mountain, extends in the same direction, and is separated therefrom by a ravine called Happy Hollow. Fountain Street extends up this hollow. The southwestern extremity of this mountain comes down to the northeastern ex- tremity of West Mountain, leaving a valley between the two wide enough for a single street, with a row of buildings on each side. This valley is simply a continuation of Hot Springs Valley veering to the northwest from the mouth of Happy Hollow. West Mountain, Hot Springs Mountain and North Mountain together form a range which runs through the center of the reservation from northeast to southwest, and divides it into nearly two equal parts. This range is divided as described by Hot Springs Valley, and northwest of it and south, southeast and east of Sugar Loaf Mountain is a large tract of the reservation surveyed into lots and streets; and all that part of the reservation lying southeast of the mountain range is also surveyed into lots and streets. Hot Springs Creek enters the reservation from the north and runs in a south- erly direction through it, passing through the val-


,


ley above described in a tunnel under Central Ave- nue. This tunnel was constructed at the expense of the Government. A branch of this creek flows from within the horseshoe bend of West Mountain in an easterly and northeasterly direction to its junction at the upper end of the valley and tunnel.


Central Avenue commences at the southern boundary of the reservation, near its center, and runs thence north, passing through Hot Springs Valley, and to the end of its extension, as previously described. There Park Avenue com- mences, and bearing to the right runs a little east of north to the limit of the reservation. At the point where Park Avenue leaves the end of Central, Whittington Avenue commences and runs south- westerly and westerly up the valley of the branch to the center of the western boundary. Prospect Avenue runs in a southwesterly direction, south of West Mountain, from Central Avenue to the city limits, near the southwest corner thereof. Mal- vern Avenue extends in a southeasterly direction from the lower end of the valley to the southern boundary. Grand Avenue commences a little north of the center of the eastern boundary of the reser- vation, and runs thence southwesterly and westerly to a point near the southwest corner. It is de- signed mostly for a residence avenue. These are some of the leading avenues of the city, but there are many others, the lineal measurement of the whole aggregating fifty miles.


Hot Springs Valley is elevated 600 feet above sea level, and the top of the mountains on either side are 600 feet above the valley, thus making their summits 1,200 feet above the sea. The great natural wonder of the place is the springs from which hot water constantly flows. These springs are seventy-two in number, and the peculiar fact exists that every one of them, save Alum Spring, issues from the western slope of the Hot Springs Mountain, the most of them from fifty to seventy- five feet above the level of the valley, and a few from near the margin of the creek. They have a temperature ranging, respectively, from 93º to 157º Fahrenheit, and make a natural discharge of 325 gallons every minute, or 482,400 gallons every day. An impression prevails among strangers


333


that hot and cold springs exist within a few feet of each other, but it is not the case; all the springs on the east side of the valley are hot, with only one exception, and that is under the brick bath-house. All on the west side are cold. The Alum Spring, which is hot, is near the middle of the valley. The waters from the springs flow into Hot Springs Creek, a beautiful mountain stream.


That eminent geologist, David Dale Owen, in his report of surveys published .in 1860, after mentioning some of the theories advanced as to the cause of the heat of the water, said: "On the contrary, I attribute the cause to the internal heat of the earth. I do not mean to say that the waters come in contact with fire, but rather that the waters are completely permeated with highly-heated vap- ors and gases which eminate from sources deeper seated than the water itself. The whole geologi- cal structure of the country, and that of the Hot Springs Ridge in particular, from which the water issues, justifies this assumption."


Most of the springs are covered with stone and cemented, and the water conveyed from them through iron pipes to the Government tanks and bathing houses in the valley below. These pipes cross and recross each other on the mountain side in all directions, reminding one of a railroad map on the thickly settled sections of the West. The water is first conveyed into large tanks in the rear of the bath-house, from which it is drawn through smaller iron pipes to the tubs as needed.


A quantative analysis made by Prof. E. H. Larkin, of St. Louis, in 1856, gives eight and one- half grains of mineral constituents to the gallon. The temperature of the water analyzed was 145°. Following is the analysis made:


GRAINS.


Silicic acid.


24.74


Sesquioxide of iron.


1.12


Alumina


5.15


Lime .


28.93


Magnesia.


.73


Chlorine. .07


Carbonic acid 21.36


Organic matter. 8.31


Water


1.72


Sulphurie acid.


4.40


Potash .


1.46


Soda . 2.01


Iodide and bromide, a trace.


. .


Total


100.00


There are many cold water springs on the re- servation, several of which contain medicinal quali- ties. Among these is Allen's Alterative Spring, on the west side of Central Avenue and near the upper end. It flows from the foot of West Mount- ain. This water is extensively used by invalids.


Those who have never visited the city of Hot Springs have no correct idea of the extent and grandeur of its bath-houses. Bath-house Row, as it is generally called, is situated at the foot of the mountain below the hot springs, and, com- mencing just below the Arlington Hotel, which stands at the lower end of Happy Hollow, it ex- tends south, on the east side of Central Avenue, to Reserve Avenue, a distance of about 1,400 feet. There are eleven of these houses, all two and some of them three stories in height, and are named in the following order commencing next to the Arling- ton: Rector, Big Iron, Superior, Old Hale, Inde- pendent, Palace, Horseshoe, Magnesia, Ozark, Rammelsburg and Lamar. The lowest number of tubs in either one is sixteen, and some of them contain forty tubs each, the aggregate number in all being 287. This shows how many persons can bathe in Bath-house Row at the same time. These bath-houses are said to be the finest in the United States. There are four additional bath- houses which do not stand on the Hot Springs Mountain Reservation. The Central and New Hot Springs are opposite each other on Central Av- enue, on the block north of the Arlington. The Rockafeller and Avenue Bath-houses are on Park Avenue. All of these are supplied with water from the hot springs. The bath-houses are owned by individuals or companies, and the eleven in Bath house Row, are on the Government reserva- tion, to which they pay a stipulated monthly rent for the use of the grounds and the water from the hot springs.


Frank M. Thompson, superintendent of the Hot Springs Reservation, in his annual report to the Secretary of the Interior, for the year ending June 30, 1889, says:


This reservation, though originally contain- ing four entire sections, and nominally two miles square by sectional numbers, contains but 2,529.10


G


x


GARLAND COUNTY.


534


HISTORY OF ARKANSAS.


acres. The Hot Springs commissioners appointed under the acts of Congress, approved March 3, 1877, and December 16, 1878, subdivided the original "Hot Springs Reservation," as follows:


ACRES.


Hot Springs Mountain 264.93


North Mountain .. 224.74


Sugar Loaf Mountain. 129.02


West Mountain 281.94


City Lots. 1,270.10


Area of streets and alleys 358.37


Total area. 2,529.10


The four mountains mentioned above, contain- ing an area of 900.63 acres, constitute the " perma- nent reservation," and are "forever reserved from sale and dedicated to the public use as parks." (Act of Congress approved June 16, 1880. Sec. 3.)


The following table shows the number of city lots laid out by the Hot Springs commissioners, the number awarded to individuals, the number sold and donated, and the number unsold and now under the care of this office, viz. :


Total number of lots to be laid out .. .2,019


Awarded to individuals. 1,435


584


Sold and donated. 258


Unsold


326


The foregoing shows that the lands belong- ing to the Government and under the immediate care of this office are embraced in four separate tracts, aggregating 900.63 acres, and 326 lots situ- ated in different portions of the city. The "per- manent reservation" covers the four mountains already mentioned. This is subdivided into four separate and detached tracts with exterior or boundary lines aggregating about eleven miles. These mountains are largely covered with trees, and are rocky, rugged, and precipitous. There is not a road or bridle way over and across them. They are surrounded by lands belonging to indi- viduals, and a population estimated at from 10,000 to 12,000. Under these conditions I am instructed that especial care should be taken to guard against the cutting or removal of trees and shrubs, sod, earth, or rocks, or anything belonging to the reser- vation, unless such removal is for the purpose of beautifying the reservation or increasing the use- fulness of the same, and then only under the


specific direction of the superintendent. The su- perintendent further says there are six persons or co-partnerships owning bath-houses or claims off the reservation, who together paid $177.50 water rent per month during the fiscal year, aggregating the sum of $2, 130. The Arlington Hotel is on the permanent reservation, and pays an annual rental of $1,000. The water rent receipts for the year were $11,490, which, with the ground rent from the Arlington, aggregated $12,490, and the ex- penditures on account of salaries, improvements, repairs, etc., amounted to $6,368, thus leaving a net income to the Government on account of the Hot Springs Reservation of $6,121. 10 for the fiscal year.




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