USA > Oregon > Benton County > History of Benton County, Oregon > Part 47
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Six miles down the bay widens out to a mile, the overflowed land being covered with grass, the hills low and rich, sandstone on the bluffs and the country heavily
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timbered and picturesque with the scenery grand and striking. At its mouth the bay narrows down to four hundred yards, and jutting into it is a point of high bluffs.
A few miles north of Yaquina bay is the Siletz Reservation, a tract of one hundred and seventy-five thousand acres of fine open country upon which about six hundred Indians are located. This territory is looked upon with longing and covetous eyes by settlers, who hope for the removal of the aboriginal with keen expectancy.
About three miles and a half north of Yaquina bay is Cape Foulweather, situated in Lat. 44° 43' N., Long. 124° 05' W. and forming a headland boldly jutting out about three-fourths of a mile into the sea from the low beach, with high mountains in the rear of it.
It is a mass of black basalt rising to a height of from eighty to one hundred feet above the sea, the base honey-combed with caves formed by the action of the waves. The cape, by its position, forms bays on the north and south, the one fronting north- west and the other south and southwest. On the north the shore line is crescent-shaped, the outer extremity pointing north, a reef making out from it in a direction north- northeast a distance of about five thousand feet, terminating at a lone rock about one thousand eight hundred feet from the beach. The depths on this reef vary from ten to thirty feet, except for a distance of about twelve hundred feet, near the cape, where there is a channel of that width with a depth of thirty to forty feet. The lone rock referred to at the north end of the reef seems to be connected with a rocky point opposite on shore by a well-marked reef, upon which there is a depth of four fathoms.
The north bay is inclosed therefore on the east by the mainland, on the south by the cape and on the west by the long reef. It is nearly a mile long and about one thousand seven hundred feet between the three fathom curve and the reef. It contains about two hundred acres, with a depth of from three to eight fathoms and a sandy bottom, which gives good holding ground for anchoring vessels.
The south bay is formed by the main shore and the cape and is protected on the east, north and northwest. On the south and southwest it is open and exposed to the terrible southern gales, from which it is most desired to find shelter. The bottom is sandy, the depth gradually increasing from near the shore, where it is three fathoms, to twenty fathoms two miles off shore. The general depth on a line drawn south from the cape is from four to six fathoms.
The spring tides rise and fall about nine feet. Dense fogs overhang the cape from time to time during the year, particularly during the month of July.
We have been thus precise in our mention of this locality as farther on we shall lay before the reader the strenuous steps that were taken by the people of Benton county towards having a Harbor of Refuge built under the lee of Cape Foulweather.
A few miles north of Cape Foulweather is the scene of the wreck of the Uncle Sam and what a terrible place for a vessel to be cast ashore ! Hard unrelenting rocks ; dreary dismal woods ! What were the feelings of the poor fellows buried here, as the inhos- pitable beach loomed up through the storm? Short the suspense-crash ! crash !- scarcely heard above the thunder of the mad surf, dashing the angry billows into a sea of frothy foam ! How vain the human struggle ! On the rough, sharp, cutting rocks, the tide left the mariner. The Indians, cold in sympathy, carried the mangled
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form of some mother's darling to the edge of yonder dismal wood and there buried him. Nothing marks the grave and a few more years will give the ocean back its victim.
Going down the coast from Yaquina bay we have Alsea bay, mentioned above. Near its mouth it turns suddenly to the south and passes out over a sandy bar. On the south is an abrupt sandy bluff and to the north a low beach also of sand. Skirt- ing the water are narrow bottoms which frequently widen into tide-lands of the best quality ; on the south are two creeks or sloughs entering the bay, on which there is much good land and at their head-waters stand much excellent fir, spruce and cedar ; while on the north is Drift creek. Surrounding the bay are low hills, in many places extending nearly to the water's edge, which too are covered generally with fir and spruce timber of the best quality. Farther down the ocean's shore is a range of low hills covered, more or less, with scrub pines near the coast, but a little distance back- wards displays a grand forest of trees. Some three miles down the beach Big creek enters the ocean, where there is some good land, while at about seven miles from Alsea bay is the old Agency farm, which comprises a prairie one mile and a fourth in length and half a mile wide. Immediately below this point is the Yahuts. This is a most beautiful part of the coast. The stream is a clear pure water-way situated ten miles below Alsea bay in a very romantic spot. Should this locality ever become easy of access it will develop into a great resort for health and pleasure-seekers. The Yahuts, a fresh-water stream, runs into the Pacific on a hard sandy beach, so smooth where their waters join that there is formed the most ideal place for sea-bathing. But it should be stated that for a mile before this river is reached, there is a range of rugged rocks, where, when the surf tumbles against its iron sides, the water flies, by tons, high into the air, creating a scene of unparalleled grandeur.
Still below the Yahuts is a belt of prairie on which are numerous shell mounds, or Kjökkenmöddings, some of them two to three hundred feet in diameter at the base and between forty and fifty feet in height, marking the location of Indian camps for cen- turies perhaps.
About two miles below Yahuts is Cape Perpetua, a bold promontory that juts out into the sea forming a prominent landmark for vessels in the offing, and indicating the extreme southwest corner of Benton county.
Let us now retrace our steps to Alsea bay forty miles from which is the Upper Alsea valley, covering an area of about three hundred square miles. This is con- sidered one of the finest portions of Oregon for agriculture, the flax and wheat being excellent; while, among the many beautiful vales and tracts of country, comparatively unknown even to many residents of the county, may be mentioned Lobster and Five River valley. It is located about six miles southwest of Alsea valley and can be reached only by trail over the range of hills that separates the Alsea from the Lob- ster. The valley is about fifteen miles long and from half a mile to a mile in width. The soil is a rich black loam, remarkably fertile and adapted to the production of a great variety of crops. On either side of this strath the hills are generally low, com- paratively free from timber or brush, and well adapted for grazing and dairy purposes.
Having recrossed the Coast Range, we turn to King's valley, famed far and near. It is about six miles long and two wide. At the point, in the bend of the Luckiamute river-which rises near the source of the Siletz river, in an almost unexplored and
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impenetrable portion of the Coast Range of mountains and flowing in a southeasterly direction for some time, but then turning abruptly to the north forms the valley-is a chain of moderately high hills, the general trend of which is nearly north and south, which are more or less open and yield good feed to cattle. To the east of the valley is a high ridge, forming the divide between the waters of the Luckiamute and those of the Willamette, which runs north and south. It extends to a point within three miles of the North Fork of Mary's river, where a spur runs off to the southeast, while the main divide turns suddenly to the west and joins that between the North Fork and the Luckiamute, thus completely closing in King's valley, with the exception of the outlet to the north. Along the fork of Mary's river is some excellent valley land, the arable soil extending well up on the foot-hills, as well as up the small streams putting into the river.
A short distance southwest from King's valley, but lying considerably higher, is Blodgett's valley, to the north of which the hills are low and mostly covered with timber.
In the southern portion of the county we have the Willamette valley dissected by the Long Tom river, the South Fork of Mary's river, Muddy, and Beaver creeks with other more insignificant streams, each, however, adding its mite to the general fertility of the district.
What would any account of the topography of Benton county be without a description, however faint, of the glorious panorama to be gazed at with mute rapture from the summit of Mary's Peak, that grim sentinel that keeps watch and ward over the portals of Yaquina and Alsea, holds the surrounding timber-clad peaks in check and showers its benison upon the fruitful valleys below. Unhappily tradition is silent as to how this noble mountain received its name, yet from its very simplicity and beauty is both poetical and apt. It is situated about twelve miles west of Corvallis and affords the finest view of the Willamette valley from Portland to the Calapooia mountains to be found in the State, also of the proud old Pacific in all its glory and majestic splendor ; the Yaquina bay looks like a little pool by the wayside, yet never- theless it is not void of beauty. On the one hand is the bold Coast Range of moun- tains ; on the other, in the blue distance, the noble Cascade chain. It is indeed a rare opportunity to feast the eye. Hence the course of the Willamette river may be traced in many a beautiful meander by the dense mass of woods that skirt its banks as it courses its silent way through the rich and fertile plain. The Three Sisters, Mount Jefferson, Mount Hood, Mount St. Helens, Mount Ranier, all with snow-capped sum- mits, are distinctly visible. These, with their awe-inspiring and silence-compelling grandeur serve as a background to the tranquil picture of the valley below. Nestling in their "bosky surroundings," are easily distinguished Eugene City, Junction City, Albany, Corvallis, and several other smaller towns, exemplifying by their quietude the life of their inhabitants. Far out, westwards, on the shining bosom of the " Peaceful Sea" we detect numbers of shimmering sails, white-winged messengers of peace and plenty, while yonder dark cloud points out the wake of some passing steam- ship bound to some opulent mart bearing precious cargoes of human freight and valuable merchandise.
The attractions of the peak itself will amply repay the tourist who loves to breathe
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pure fresh air and delights to look upon the marvelous and beautiful works of nature. The entire summit is carpeted with the most luxuriant bunch grass-the finest possible. On it herds of deer feed, affording food for the rifle of the sportsman, while flocks of grouse whir away before him. A little below the apex is a spring of pure, delicious water, but eight degrees above the ice point, as tested by actual experiment, whence arises a stream, down whose valley, beneath groves of the peculiar silver-fir, are to be found camping grounds of rare beauty of location. Among the marked features of the place is the Rocking Stone, a huge basaltic fragment of rock weighing many tons, egg- shaped, and poised on' a square pedestal of the same formation, while there is also the Slipper Stone, so called from its resemblance to a neatly finished article of that kind.
Mary's Peak is easy of access, within a short distance of Corvallis, and embodies all the advantages of proximity to traffic, sylvan beauty and health-giving atmosphere, while as a resort for the sportsman no finer locality could be chosen in the State of Oregon.
Unfortunately no special geological survey has been made of Benton county, nor indeed of the State, which is to be regretted, for there is scarcely a subject which, in the whole range of scientific research, is fraught with so much interest to the general reader and sure to yield a rich harvest to the investigator. Benton county is rich in minerals, chiefly coal and gold, although some outcrops of iron have been detected. The gold of the Coast Range, has only been found in paying quantities in the sand of the sea-beach, from which it is washed at low tides. These beach diggings extend for hundreds of miles, with gold enough yet left in them to pay moderate returns for ordinary labor, and with a record running back over a period of twelve or fifteen years, whose statements may be divided into the "reasonable," the "marvelous" and the "fabulous," and the numbers corresponding to each successive stage be stated at twelve to fifteen dollars per day to the hand; fifty to one hundred, and eight hundred to one thousand dollars per day-the last figures, doubtless, seldom found.
The gold of the beach is discovered in heavy, black sand, apparently either brought down from the interior by those rivers that come from a gold-bearing region and distributed along the beach by the waves of the ocean, or else derived from broken up ledges of gold-bearing rock near where it is found-the latter supposition seeming to find confirmation in the fact that the best diggings (not only, but the only ones that have paid at all) are either around those capes and sunken ledges of rock that mark the extension seaward of the cross ranges of mountains, the Siskiyou, the Umpqua and and the Calapooia, or else places where spurs of the Coast Range itself come down to the sea. We find accordingly around-first, the seaward extension of the Siskiyou Mountains, at Point St. George, near Crescent City, extensive beach diggings; second, the extension seaward of the Umpqua Mountains, marked by a ledge of rocks running out four miles into the ocean and only lost in the increasing depth, which is, too, sur- rounded by important beach diggings; third, from Cape Perpetua, several miles north- wards, marking the extension of the Calapooia Mountains-extensive beach diggings still worked with paying results. At or near one of these three points have been found the principal gold diggings of the beach, while in every instance not connected with these points in which gold had been found, the other class of facts were present, viz: the extension down to the sea of some spur of the Coast Range.
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The inquiry naturally arises: Did the storm-surf disengage the gold from these sunken ledges of rocks, these heads of gold-bearing mountains here plunging into the sea? Or, did the rivers bring it from the interior-the waves distributing it along the beach in the direction in which prevailing winter storms would drive it-sunken ledges of rock extending across their path, arresting and holding it in their eddies ?
Marvelous stories are told of the wealth taken in former years from some of these diggings. They are still worked in three or four places with paying results. They extend from the California line to the Straits of Fuca, but the principal ones are those named.
Since 1849 the Pacific coast has been the scene of continuous gold excitement. Sometimes the Oregonians were rushing south, then north, or east or west. That gold has been found in paying quantities, and that vast fortunes have been amassed in an incredibly short space of time, is beyond question, but it is also true that while a few have been enriched thousands have been beggared in the search for the shining ore. - Many well-to-do farmers have sold their stock, mortgaged their farms and placed their families on short rations for the purpose of procuring an outfit for the mines, and after one, two, or three years of toil and privation, with shattered health, perhaps, they have returned "strapped." During the Port Orford, Colville and other excitements, fields of grain were left unharvested, stores closed, the fires of the forge quenched, carpenter's tools scattered in wild confusion and the plow and harrow left rusting in the field. Truly mining is a very uncertain business at best! Yet, there are thousands who are not content with the slow and sure process of accumulating wealth by manufacture, production or commerce. These excitements however are detrimental to a country and should ever be discouraged. These thoughts occurred to us as we read in the Corvallis Gazette of April 6, 1867, of the establishment of a mining camp under the laws of the State, at Newport, on Yaquina bay. That gold does exist in the region is not at all impossible, indeed, we have demonstrated the fact that it is found in the black sand of the sea shore, but that it will ever be found in paying quantities is highly improbable
We have also learned of a slight excitement being created in the month of November, 1869, by the reported discovery of the precious metal on the bars of Mary's river, in the vicinity of Philomath, which of course came to nought, as indeed will every other such a rush as far as this county is concerned.
Not so with coal, however. From the evidences it is known that that commodity exists along the Coast Range, while it is believed that coal beds are scattered over a large tract of the district around Yaquina bay. In 1866, traces of coal were found in the gravel of the bed of the Siletz river, in such quantities as to lead to the supposition that these were a wash from some larger deposits along the banks of the stream, but this was on an Indian Reservation and could be of no use or benefit to the public at large. In 1867 coal was found on Yaquina bay, the croppings being discovered on its north side, about half a mile below Oysterville, by John Black, H. C. Neute and others. On excavation a well-defined bed of the article, mixed with slate, lying in a horizontal position between sandstone formation was brought to light, and much excitement resul- ted, and still farther augmented by the daily detection of float coal along the shore. It was duly tested by three separate blacksmiths in their forges who pronounced it a genuine article without smell, declaring that it should supersede charcoal.
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In May, 1867, another discovery of coal was made on Bear creek, a tributary of the Yaquina river, by Messrs. Dixon and Oglesby, of a very superior quality, while about the same time more of the same substance was found on Elk creek, six miles above Elk City, to work which a company was formed. In February, 1869, under the direction of an experienced miner, Mackey & Co., struck a solid vein of good coal five feet in thickness, since when many more discoveries have been made, but sufficient has been said to show that coal, and that of a good quality does exist in Benton county and awaits only enterprise and capital to develop it.
In September, 1867, iron ore of a good quality was discovered on Yaquina bay, while it may be safely asserted that the day is not far distant that all the wealth of the district now hidden in the bowels of the earth will be brought forth and add greatly to the wealth of the country.
CHAPTER XXXVI.
BENTON COUNTY.
Soil-Productions-Climate-Game-Etc.
Ere making a few remarks upon the character of the soil and productions of Benton county, we may premise by saying that the prairies and bottom lands, and especially those lands which were naturally moist, or could be easily irrigated, were the first occupied by the hardy pioneers, because, it was thought, during the dry sum- mers only such lands would be productive. Experience, has, however, proven that this early idea of the first settlers was not wholly true; for any land susceptible of thorough cultivation can be, and for years has been, made highly productive, not only of cereals, but also of vegetables.
The prairies of the Willamette are wonderfully fertile, deep, mellow and lasting. When in geological ages long gone by, the valley was under water, the now prairies were the deep holes of the bay, for it was such, and as a consequence the debris from the various rivers, creeks, etc., rushed down from the Cascades, Coast chain and Cala- pooia mountains into the bay and necessarily settled in the lowest places. Hence, logs, leaves, sand, gravel and vast quantities of organic substances formed these immense deposits, deposits which in after years were to become the homes of men, animals and forests-a busy scene of life. For ages, impossible to number, the winds sported with 40+
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the wild waves of this ancient bay ; clouds and storms waged war; glaciers scoured down the Cascades ; avalanches swept over and abraded the mountain sides depositing, what was then but crude materials for future chemical action to convert into extended tracts of rich, level lands. Here, on this then lonely and far-off field of water, thousands upon thousands of swans, ducks, brants, pelicans, cranes, etc., frolicked on its bosom or reveled on its shores. These primitive ages have left their impress on the new Tualatin plains, Yamhill valleys, Polk, Benton, Linn, Marion and Lane county prairies. We marvel at the foresight, adaptation and power of these persistent forces, used as means to ends. Their convulsions, their wars, the heat, the "central power " which lifted the mountains, shook the earth and made the ocean boil. How vast ! The immeasurable eternity which has elapsed since old Hood, St. Helens, the Three Sisters, et al., were " holes in the ground !" How long did their deep-mouthed bellowings roar ? How long did molten land, smoke and flame pour forth these " vent holes," through which rich materials and surplus power found exit ? No answer can be made to these profound questions.
The theory of great geologists, such as Hutton, Lyell, Hitchcock, Murchison, Smith, MacCulloch, De la Roche, Webster, Buckland, Mantell, Rogers, Phillips, Dana, and a host of writers of the new school who have not altered, but simply modified, those fundamental principles advocated by Hutton, Lyell, Playfair, etc., seems to be this : Along the ocean line of continents chains of mountains are formed. The agen- cies are these : First, the weight or pressure of the ocean ; secondly, the internal heat combined with external or oceanic pressure; thirdly, chemical or mechanical action or pressure. Now, the immense weight or pressure of the ocean-as the Pacific-along the water line of this coast, produces heat in the molten land below. This being extra heat, causes, through both chemical and mechanical action, expansion ; through this expansion the earth along the water line is gradually-sometimes suddenly-upheaved. This upheaval raises a chain of mountains parallel with the ocean. The pressure con- tinues so great that not only is a chain of mountains formed, but the internal forces burst up through the earth's crust, creating " vent holes," these become volcanoes. The volcanoes lessen the pressure and hence the chain of mountains cease to become elevated. The internal and external forces are in equilibrium. During this volcanic era the ocean's pressure diminishes immediately and it becomes concentrated according to its depth, out at sea, sometimes seventy-five and sometimes one hundred and fifty or more miles opposite, and parallel with the former chain of mountains. Hence chains of mountains are formed in succession, but not always so.
Now, let it be clearly, distinctly understood, that as the forces cease in one por- tion, they become active in another. Ages ago, the Cascades lessened in their activity ; as a consequence, then, the pressure being from the west, in the ocean, wherever these concentrated a second time, a new chain must arise ; hence the origin of the now Coast chain. Of course, between the Cascades and Coast chain, there must be a basin or valley. This was covered by water and was a bay surrounded by the Cascades to the east, the Calapooia on the south and westwards the Coast chain. On the north it was open to the ocean, for where the Columbia now flows once rolled the Pacific. It was the lateral pressure of the water which produced the Calapooia mountains and those across, or north of, the Columbia and at the now falls of the Willamette. When from
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gradual pressure the Coast chain was elevated to its present height, the pressure ceased westward and concentrated under the waters of the now Willamette and upheaved the red hills of the valley. This sublevation caused the waters to flow over and break through below at the Willamette falls.
The gradual elevation of the valley under notice was a means of draining off its water ; and thus the " dry land appeared." For an eternity this process was going on :- First, the elevation of the Cascades and their volcanic era ; second, the elevation of the Coast chain-its gradual uplifting and its less volcanic era; third, the lateral pressure resulting in the elevation of the Calapooia and Northern chain at Oregon City ; fourth, the latest and last volcanic action of the Cascades and upheaval of the red hills, in the district ; and, finally, the filling up and drying off of the now beauti- ful Willamette valley.
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