History of Benton County, Oregon, Part 69

Author: David D. Fagan
Publication date: 1885
Publisher:
Number of Pages:

USA > Oregon > Benton County > History of Benton County, Oregon > Part 69

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" The first danger in approaching the harbor of Yaquina consists of a ledge of rocks running parallel with the general trend of the shore line and distant from one to one and three-fourths miles from it. This ledge (so far as surveyed) culminates in a rock one and one-quarter miles from shore and two and one-third miles south-south- west of the North Head, on which there is but twelve and a half feet at mean low

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water. On this rock the sea breaks at low tide and in heavy weather. Running from this rock to the northward the ledge sinks. Opposite the entrance it again rises, the shoalest spot being but six feet below the surface at mean low water. The extent of shoal water is about six hundred yards in length, the reef then sinks again rising in isolated spots to thirteen feet below the surface until it terminates at Cape Foulweather. Between this reef and the bar there is a good channel over five hundred yards wide with an average depth of twenty-four feet (mid low water).

" The bar is formed partly by a sand spit making out from the south beach and partly by a double reef of rocks extending from the North Head. The outermost reef starts from a point three hundred and thirty-eight yards north of the large rock below mentioned and ends with a line of Kelp on the north edge of the channel. Three hundred yards from its shore end and one hundred and fifty yards from the edge of the channel, there is a rock awash at low water. The inner reef starts from the large rock and runs two hundred and twenty yards out, terminating at the edge of the chan- nel also. Between the sand-spit and this reef runs the north, or rather the only well- defined channel existing at the present time. Through this channel, choosing the best water, vessels will not get a shoaler cast than nine feet at mean low water, or sixteen and one-half to seventeen feet mean high water.

" At its most narrow part, there is a width of one hundred and sixty-eight feet, carrying nine feet ; four hundred and twenty feet carrying eight feet ; and six hundred feet carrying seven feet. The shoal water is six hundred yards across in the channel, vessel getting seventeen and eighteen feet up to it and inside.

"On the sand-spit before mentioned there is, in some places, a depth of only two or three feet at low water, and the sea breaks over it almost constantly. The vessels formerly running in and out of the bay crossed this sand-spit. On their ranges we found two and one-half feet in the shoalest spot at mean low water.

" As better water has always been claimed for these ranges, I am inclined to think that the sand-spit is shifting and would probably show an increased depth of water after the winter gales. The main current of the river sets very strongly towards this spit at ebb tide. The channels, on the contrary, may shoal some in winter, but having one rocky edge the channel will, it is probable, retain its depth in summer.

" The shoal water in crossing the bar through the channel continues so short a distance and the channel itself is so straigh and well defined in ordinary weather, by the breakers on each side, that with a pilot or chart to guide them, vessels drawing ten, twelve, or even fifteen feet can, by choosing the time of tide, enter and depart with perfect safety.

" In this it has a decided advantage over the more tortuous channels of other places on the coast. Should the harbor become of sufficient importance to justify it, a steam tug could take vessels out and in, drawing even more than the above mentioned depth of water. * *

" The soundings are all reduced to mean low water, viz : a mean of the lowest of low waters observed during the progress of the survey. The mean rise of the tide is seven and a half feet. At the full and change of the moon, the high waters will rise higher, and the low waters fall lower than the above, and consequently, the depth of water on the bar will be greater at high tide and lower at low tide. In heavy north- 60+

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west or southeast weather, the tides are sensibly affected by the wind. The highest tide ever known here from that course rose fifteen feet above the plane of reference. A beacon has been erected on the sand dunes back of the south beach to be kept in range with the flagstaff to enter the north channel through the best water.

SAILING DIRECTIONS .- Vessels bound for the Yaquina Bay, after making the landmarks before mentioned, should not run in closer than twelve fathoms, until they get the signal on Light House Point (or rather North Head) to north-east-a-quarter- east; then run for it until range signals are on.

"The range signals are a beacon erected on the sand dunes directly back of the beach, and the flagstaff on the hill behind. These are to be kept in range until the water deepens to three fathoms, and the slide or diamond-shaped hill on the north side of the bay bears north-by-east-a-half-east; then run for it until opposite the town. Anchor above the houses, in the stream, and as close to the shore as the vessel will swing; lower down, the holding is bad and the current, on the ebb, very strong."

Thus at last Yaquina bay was officially surveyed, and that such was undertaken, is mainly due to the untiring exertions of Senator H. W. Corbett, whose indefatigable labors and unfeigned interest in the matter was fully appreciated by the people of Ben- ton county. No time was lost in improving the facilities for navigation. Congress on March 27, 1869, provided for the erection of a lighthouse, the construction of which, was not to be delayed for the want of the consent of the State Legislature to the pur- chase of the site; while, April 23, 1870, intelligence was received through Senator George H. Williams, that the House Committee on Appropriations had agreed to put into the pending Appropriation Bill twenty thousand dollars for harbor lights, and promised at the following session to grant ninety thousand dollars for a lighthouse and fog-signal at Cape Foulweather, thus making the destiny of the bay manifest. Besides this the Treasury Department, under date March 18, 1870, gave instructions to take the earliest opportunity to have the entrance to the bay properly buoyed; while, May 30. 1870, the government steamer Shubrick crossed the bar and demonstrated the prac- ticability of the port for steamer trade.

Up to May 3, 1873, the Government had expe. led one hundred and fifty thou- sand dollars, or more, in establishing lighthouses, one at the entrance of Yaquina bay, and one three miles above it, which furnished employment to a large number of resi- dent citizens, and in that way disbursed funds among a large number of workmen. The benefits of these undertakings were quickly apparent. Mail facilities were increased; a fine lumber mill was erected, and it seemed that a period of average prosperity was about to dawn upon the citizens on and about the bay. Roads too, were built and a railroad company organized; a steamboat had been built; new stores were opened, and signs of encouraging good fortune were apparent on every hand. A fine large schooner had been constructed and launched, that made successful trips to San Francisco, while muchi time and meams were used in preparing for a profitable trade in the different productions of the district. But instead of all these bright hopes being pushed to suc- cessful results, few have advanced to full fruition.

As to the advantages of Yaquina bay being a harbor comparatively easy of approach, let us mention one of many instances in proof of the assertion. In the month of March, 1878, a coasting schooner, the Lizzie Madison, from Humboldt bay

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to San Francisco, was driven by a series of southeast gales far out of her course. She reached Umpqua bar, signalled for a tug, but none came. A consultation was held. The alternatives were beaching or risking passage of the Columbia bar. Suddenly, the captain, C. M. Nisson, determined to attempt entering Yaquina bay. He made Foul- weather light at midnight. With his vessel drawing eight feet, he, guided by the pub- lished directions to mariners, on making the port, sailed, in the midst of storm, through a protected channel and entered the bay in safety, a fact, single though it be, emphat- ically proving that Yaquina bay is easily approachable by vessels of ordinary draft, while the harbor, land-locked and secure, once inside is safe and unexposed.

Under date December 12, 1879, Hon. John Whiteaker, member of Congress, writes to the late W. B. Carter, editor of the Corvallis Gazette, to the following effect :

" As soon as possible after the holiday recess, I intend introducing a bill for the improvement of Oregon's harbors and the mouth of the Columbia river ; and knowing the deep interest you take in anything relating to Yaquina bay, I address you for the purpose of having you send me all the information possible on the subject. Write me what is really needed as an appropriation ; what work must be done, and the benefits to accrue. Let your arguments be brief and based upon unquestionable authority. As you know, in a matter of this kind, we have no time for rhetorical flights," etc.

In reply to this communication, Mr. Carter, who was ill at the time, handed it over to Mr. Wallis Nash, who penned an able answer, dated January 5, 1880, embodying the following information :

"1. No change has taken place since Mr. Chase's survey in 1868 in the bar or obstruction, which is thus proved to be permanent and immovable in character.

"2. The obstruction is not more than one hundred and fifty yards across, from forty feet depth on the outside to thirty feet on the inside.

"3. There are three entrances through the reef: north, middle and south, with a minimum depth now of twelve feet at low water, and a rise of 7.8 inches to mean high water.

"4. There is a protecting outer reef, one and one-half miles out, which covers the entrance; receives and breaks up the heavy seas in all storms, and prevents the deposit of sand in the channel.

"5. There is ample anchorage within the harbor to take in ships of any burden, and deep water close in shore for several miles in extent, enabling ships to load and deliver cargo with ease, safety and celerity.

"6. The harbor is land-locked, perfectly safe in every wind and with good hold- ing ground everywhere for anchorage.

"7. The reef or obstruction consists of moderately soft sandstone rock, easily removable by blasting, but affording firm and permanent foundation for the short sea walls, 'not exceeding one-fourth of a mile in length, by which it is proposed to close the north and south channels, thus confining the current within the center channel, increasing the scour and preventing the deposit of sand.

"8. Abundance of good building stone is available in close proximity to the places where it will be needed for the sea walls above referred to.

"9. The entrance to the harbor is safe and easy during the prevalence of winds from south, southwest, west, north and northwest. The prevailing winds on the coast

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are north and northwest-these winds are fair both for entering and leaving Yaquina bay.

" The expenditure of from six hundred thousand to seven hundred and fifty thou- sand dollars would probably provide entrance for vessels exceeding two thousand tons burthen, with sea walls and light house at the entrance. The harbor would be by far the best on the Pacific coast between San Francisco and Puget Sound. It would require three years to complete the whole.

"The benefits to accrue may be summarized thus :

"1. The opening to exports and imports of a fertile region exceeding five hun- dred thousand acres in extent, at present entirely without the means of exporting pro- duce save at a cost exceeding the value of the articles, and paying for their imports rates which, by the cost of carriage are now double the prices in places of easy access.

"2. The provision for the whole of the middle and upper parts of the Willamette valley, and indeed for Middle and Southern Oregon generally, of a shorter and cheaper route for both passengers and goods-one never closed by ice, or made inaccessible by storms-saving, say between San Francisco and the center of the Willamette valley, not less than two hundred and twenty miles in actual distance, and quite half the time now involved in that journey.

"3. The opening of a port where vessels would be available at a freight certainly one dollar and fifty cents per ton less than now charged to Portland from any southern or foreign port, and free from the charges and delays involved in the Columbia bar and pilotage.

" 4. The opening of a bay for lumbering and ship-building purposes, where the very best natural advantages exist, and whence large exports of lumber, coal, building stone, fish, oysters and farming produce will be made. Lumber mills, ship-building yards and oyster beds have already been opened and only await the means of export for further development.

"5. For the whole of Oregon a point of export and import will be provided only sixty miles from the heart of the Willamette valley, independent in itself, (and by the railroad which will reach it,) of the powerful railroad and steamboat corporation which now controls so much of the traffic of the State.

"6. A large saving, both of money and time will be effected in the arrangements now current for the carriage of the United States mails through this district.

" 7. The Indian Department will also save largely on the sums now paid for stores for the Siletz Agency.

"8. For the promotion of these objects strenuous and determined efforts will be made by really all the rapidly growing population of the middle and lower countries of the State, all of which are fully alive to their importance."

With all these above noted advantages laid before them the Congressional heart was touched ; besides a petition signed by three thousand four hundred farmers and traders of the Willamette valley praying for an appropriation of two hundred and forty thousand dollars to improve the entrance to Yaquina bay so that heavy-laden ships of deep draught could enter to deliver and receive cargo. To effect this the bar, which, as we have seen, consists of sand, deposited on a rocky ledge, which is from twelve to thirteen feet below the surface of the water-the bench of rocks being twenty-

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four feet-and these being at rare intervals swept bare by the the action of the cur- rent, to make this increased depth permanent is the design of the government works now being proceeded with. A jetty is being constructed from the point south of the entrance, which is to be extended a distance of two thousand six hundred feet directly west to deep water outside of the bar, by which means the southern channel will be effectually closed, thus driving all the water through the middle passage, scouring it of sand and increasing its depth. Work was commenced in 1881 under a grant of forty thousand dollars made in the session of 1880, two-thirds of which was required for plant-docks, tugs, scows, donkey-engines, etc. In 1881, an allowance of ten . thousand dollars was made, although twenty-five thousand was the amount recom- mended by the engineers; in 1882, sixty thousand dollars was granted; in 1883 no appropriation was made; and in 1884, Congress appropriated the sum of fifty thousand dollars. The works, under J. S. Polhemus, C. E., are now at an advanced stage while their benefit is already made apparent by a greater depth of water. The rock used in the construction of the breakwater, which is built of brush mattresses, cribs and heavy stone, is hard and durable and is brought from a quarry on the Yaquina river, fourteen miles from the point, in scows, a slow and expensive proceeding and the most costly item of the improvement. It is probable that another jetty will be constructed from the north point, protecting the channel from sands from that direction, and causing the water to flow through one outlet, thus by the concentrated force made available by both breakwaters, the rocks will be laid bare, and made more accessible when it becomes necessary to increase the depth by blasting.

We have already noticed the fact that ninety thousand dollars was appropriated in the year 1870, for building a lighthouse at Cape Foulweather, was at once proceeded with. It is a grand structure, about one hundred and sixty feet from the water and about ninety feet above the base. The ascent is made by circular stairs, some eight flights, handsomely ornamented. The light is of the first order, while the tower, Keeper's residence, grounds, etc., exhibit exquisite taste and skill in design and work- manship, but above all, it has proved an inestimable boon to mariners on the coast. But we are among those who think that here Nature planned a harbor of refuge for ships in distress-"'tis but thy name that is thine enemy." At Cape Foulweather the Great Architect of the Universe has formed a secure harbor and completed two-thirds of the work of constructing a breakwater. From its western point extends in a south- erly direction a broken reef of rocks almost awash at low water, with here and there deep gaps that could be utilized as entrances ; while, from Yaquina Head, three miles and a half south, another similar reef extends in a westerly direction, toward the ter- mination of that first mentioned. Here then is a foundation laid by Nature, firm as the " rock-bound coast " itself, for a breakwater, inclosing a harbor under the lee of Cape Foulweather, in which, even now, the sea rarely ever breaks, and ships have frequently safely ridden out a northeasterly gale. This harbor is three miles long by two wide, with from ten to thirty fathoms of water and good holding ground-a finer anchorage is not to be found on the entire northwest coast of the American continent.

For the purpose of bringing these advantages before the proper authorities, and as the subject of a harbor of refuge was occupying public attention at the time, in June, 1877, W. B. Higley was actively engaged in circulating petitions for signature in Ben-

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ton and other counties, praying for such an appropriation as would secure the con- struction of such a haven at Cape Foulweather.

That a breakwater, or harbor of refuge, somewhere on the Pacific coast north of San Francisco is a necessity, is a fact so evident and so universally admitted that it is hardly worth while to question it. All sea-faring men know that this coast in the winter season is a dangerous one; and even in summer anything but pleasant. If proof were necessary, we might point to the large number of vessels that stand on the list as missing. And it is not strange that this should be the case when we consider . that on a whole coast line of about twelve hundred miles there is but one harbor, (San Francisco) that can be entered in nearly all kinds of weather while there are times when even this is not approachable.

Between San Francisco and Cape Flattery, a distance of about seven hundred miles, the coast is mostly bold and rugged, with not one inlet, island, cape or headland behind which a vessel might find shelter from the heavy winter gales. And so many a poor mariner has seen his disabled and helpless vessel sinking under him, perhaps in sight of land, whose appearance only increases his danger, for to attempt to enter any of the few bar harbors along the coast would be rushing to certain destruction. The propriety of locating such a harbor to the north of San Francisco could never be ques- tioned. The line of bad weather is not only north of San Francisco, but north of Cape Mendocino, therefore it stands to reason that a point between Cape Mendocino and Cape Flatery should be chosen.

It is not our purpose to draw comparisons between the merits of Trinidad, Crescent City, Port Orford, Cape Arago, and others; nor is it our intention to cavil at any selection from among these that may have been made. Our desire is to perpetuate the fact that a spot exists eminently fitted for the construction of a harbor of refuge, on the western shore of Benton county, and which, as the fleet of vessels engaged in the coast trade increases, must eventually have the whole attention of the "powers that be." We allude to Cape Foulweather which is situated in Lat. 44° 40' and is about ninety miles south of the Columbia river and about three and three-fourths miles north of Yaquina bay.

The preliminary steps for a survey was ordered by Congress, March 5, 1878, in order to make a choice between two places selected, viz: Port Orford and Cape Foul- weather, and that year the survey was completed and the following report made by Robert A. Habersham, Assistant Engineer:

" I have the honor to submit the following report of a survey 'at Cape Foul- weather, to assertain its adaptability as a harbor of refuge,' with a general plan of improvement and an approximate estimate of its cost, made in pursuance of your instruc- tions dated August the eighth, of the present year.

"This work was performed between the ninth and twenty-third of the same month. To save repitition I will here state that all depths given refer, unless otherwise specified, to the lowest of mean low tides, as nearly as could be determined from the tide tables for the Pacific coast, published in San Francisco, and from information furnished by residents of the locality.

"No extreme tides occurred during the progress of the survey, not even at full moon, an unusual circumstance.

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"From Yaquina Head, which makes the north side of the entrance to Yaquina river, the shore line runs a little to the east of north for four miles, to the end of South Foulweather beach; thence westward for three-fourths of a mile to the south west elbow of the cape, where it begins to curve northward and eastward until it reaches the extreme point of Cape Foulweather, which points north ; thence southeast, curving round to east, to the point where the cape joins the mainland again ; thence north for about seven miles, to a point known as Old Cape Foulweather.

"The shore line of Cape Foulweather proper describes the figure of a half crescent, the curved top pointing north. From this point a reef makes out in a nearly direct line, course north-northeast, for five thousand and twenty-five feet, terminating in a bare rock, which, for convenience, I have called Round Rock, distant one thousand eight hundred feet from the low tide line on the north beach, and immediately opposite Rocky Point, a vertical cliff formed of rock of the same character, of which it was formerly a portion, as the soundings show a well marked ridge connecting them about four fathoms under water.

"The depths on this long reef, which is nearly flat on its crest, vary from ten to thirty feet from Round Rock to within twelve hundred feet of the cape, where a depression occurs which shows from thirty to forty feet; the center being the deepest. The north side of this gap is marked by a rock on which the swell breaks constantly and which is said to be bare at extreme low tide.

" It is seen that the cape forms two bays, one fronting northwest, the other south and southwest. The north bay, the outlines of which have just been given, is inclosed on the east by the mainland ; on the south and southwest by the cape; on the west by the long reef; and on the north by the reef which connects Round Rock with Rocky Point. It is nearly one mile in length and one-third of a mile across, the width being measured from the curve of eighteen feet depth to the west reef, and contains about two hundred acres. The bottom is sandy, generally smooth forming good holding ground as far as can be judged, no vessel or craft of any kind having up to this time entered here that I can learn. The depths vary from three to eight fathoms.

"The south bay, so called, is open to the south and west. It is bounded on the north by the cape and on the east by the mainland. The bottom is sandy, sloping sea- ward, the depth increasing uniformly from near the beach, where it is eighteen feet, to twenty fathoms at a distance of two miles from the shore. The general depth on a line drawn south from the cape is from four to six fathoms. It is rather a roadstead than a bay ; and while it is easy of access from the ocean in any direction, is sheltered only from north and east winds, which are never violent.

"From Yaquina Head to the north end of Foulweather beach the shore presents a slope of from fifty to eighty degrees, tolerably uniform in direction generally, but much broken by sharp points and by ravines and small valleys. The face of the cliff shows soft sandstone overlying at greater or less depths a bed of marl filled with fos- sil shells. Numerous small veins of water trickle down the face of the sandstone, softening it and contributing to the destructive action of the weather, while the marl underneath is continually wearing away under the heavy blows of the surf.

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History of Benton County, Oregon, Part 69

Author: David D. Fagan Publication date: 1885 Publisher: Number of Pages:

Author: David D. Fagan
Publication date: 1885
Publisher:
Number of Pages: