History of Benton County, Oregon, Part 49

Author: David D. Fagan
Publication date: 1885
Publisher:
Number of Pages:

USA > Oregon > Benton County > History of Benton County, Oregon > Part 49

Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).

The next in interest among the large game found in Benton county is the black bear. The brown or cinnamon bear is also claimed as a resident by some, but it appears to be a fact in dispute at present. But the black bear is plentiful, too plenti- ful, as owners of sheep and goats will testify-for Bruin exhibits a civilized liking for mutton. He shows but little sport, being of such a shy disposition that he is rarely met by the hunter. He is generally hunted with dogs-any sort of a cur being good enough-who by their worrying, barking and snarling will annoy Bruin till he breaks cover and gives the rifle a chance. Sometimes, as evening draws on, one may be seen feeding on the skunk-cabbage, which grows with almost tropical luxuriance in many of the mountain streams and marshes on the coast. He rarely shows fight, even when severely wounded, though he will work mischief on any dog plucky enough to attack him. He is more often trapped than shot-spring traps, dead-falls and catch-him-alive ones being the most popular. And when in the latter, on the arrival of the trapper, he shows signs of terrific rage, battering the log walls of his prison and frequently destroy- ing his claws, in his impotent efforts to escape, till a merciful shot ends his misery.

The Cougar is another inhabitant of the mountains, his feline majesty likewise having a weakness for mutton and commiting sad havoc among the flocks. He is a

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cowardly though powerful animal and it will go hard with the dog, or even man, who has a close encounter with it, though generally he will run for it, if he can. The hunter pursues the cougar with dogs-his only chance of a shot is when the game, hard pressed by the hounds, takes refuge up a tree. The nimrod follows the cry of his hound as quickly as he can and is soon rewarded by the sight of the gleaming teeth and flashing eyes of his prey, as safely ensconced behind the limb of some gigantic pine, far from the ground, he grins defiance at his foes. But the wiles of the brute are no match for the skill of the hunter. The ringing rifle shot, mingled with the death yell of the savage beast echoes with a thousand vibrations along the steep sides of the canyon, frightening the deer from their lairs and summoning yonder buzzard, circling there far up in the blue sky, with hopes of a bloody banquet.

The wild-cat, beaver, otter, fisher and mink make up the list. They can hardly, perhaps, be called game, being more the prey of the trapper than the sportsman.

For the lover of the "gentle craft," there is many a crystal stream in the adjacent hills, to tempt him to wear away a summer day. From early April when the swelling buds tell of approaching spring, on through dusty summer, when the very woods seem faint with heat, even until the golden grain and yellowing leaves proclaim that autumn is nigh, the fisherman's toil will be rewarded, by many a speckled beauty. In Beaver creek, some eight miles south of Yaquina, on the coast, there is a certainty of a big take. From the upper waters of the Luckiamute, Mary, Yaquina and Alsea, the fisher- man will not return with empty creel. The Willamette itself has a fair proportion of both trout and coarser fish, though few are taken with the fly. Salmon abound in the Yaquina, Alsea and Siletz. They are often takeu with a spoon-bait, but we have yet to hear of their rising to a fly. Higher up the streams they are speared with ease, but are generally worthless for food, from the injuries they have received in forcing a passage up from their ocean home. Time and space forbids us to enlarge on the delights of flounder fishing and spearing at Yaquina bay, and on the savory rock oyster and luscious clam which are the never-failing pursuit of the merry tribe of pleasure- seekers all through the summer there-enough to say that for all, young or old, male or female, sport and pastime abound in this favored county.

As the fall of the year comes round in Benton county, so the face of the sportsman brightens with the thought that after the first rains have come in, so also will the ducks and geese. The latter, which consists of the Canadian, and occasionally a band or two of white, start about the second week in October to fly in bands from their northern homes, where they have spent the breeding season and the summer months. Down they come, the cold being too much for them in the higher latitudes, quantities passing over our heads going into California, and numbers settling down in the adjoining country.

The geese come slightly in advance of the ducks, and about the end of October a sportsman may have much enjoyment. Snipe also are fairly abundant and appear to be much tamer than the British variety.

To sum up, the conveniences in Benton county for immigrants and new settlers to procure all kinds of supplies such as the various kinds of agricultural implements, mechanics' tools, provisions, seeds, groceries, books, stationery, clothing, etc., are as good as any person can wish or reasonably expect. The stores throughout all the set-

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tlements in the different parts of the county being well supplied with these articles, at reasonable prices, Oregon being able to boast of an extensive supply of general mer- chandise, hardware and agricultural appliances, in proportion to the number of her inhabitants as any State in the Union. The facilities for marketing and converting the various industrial productions of the county into cash is as good as could be expected in a comparatively new country like this, and far superior to the advantages enjoyed by almost any of the now thickly settled portions of the Mississippi valley, before railroad enterprise opened up the natural resources and agricultural wealth of these great States to the markets of the world. The Willamette river, forming the entire eastern boundary of the county, furnishes navigable water for river steamers more than half of the time during the year, while the West Side branch of the Oregon and California Railroad affords the means by which flour, wood, bacon, wheat, butter and cheese can be shipped to Portland, a distance of about eighty-six miles, where all these articles find a ready market at remunerative prices.

The harbor at Yaquina bay, in the western portion of the county, bids fair to be the most important seaport in the State and furnishes a point where sailing vessels and ocean steamers can ship produce and lumber to San Francisco, Portland, British Columbia, China, the Sandwich Islands and other foreign ports, all of which will be greatly augmented by the completion of the railroad, now rapidly approaching con- summation, between Corvallis and Yaquina.

The inducements Benton county holds out to the industrious laboring man with small means and indomitable perseverance; who wishes to place himself in the possession of a comfortable home at a cost of only a few years' labor and a sacrifice of a few social enjoyments in a crowded city or densely populated town, where society too often rests upon a money basis, where virtuous industry in rags is made to do penance to aristocratic vice in satin ; are equal to almost any other location on the Pacific Coast. To the wool grower her green hills and mild climate, scarce ever requiring grain or hay for sheep, affords a good opening for this department of industry ; while, to the manufacturer of that article, the ease with which the raw material may be obtained, and the necessary demand for blankets, flannel, tweeds, cassimeres and all kinds of woolen goods, promise rich returns for all capital invested. The extensive valleys of grass, excellent stock range and the ease with which cattle can be reared, promise a full reward to the stock-grower for ordinary care. The immigrant who wishes to engage in general farming, grain raising, or a system of mixed husbandry, will here find the rich soil of the Mississippi valley, impregnated with the various mineral salts, alkaline and marine deposits in soluble form, giving the soil of Oregon, and that of the Willamette valley in particular, its superior capacity for producing every kind of grain and especially the great staple of the country-wheat. The lumberman can find openings for profitable investment in that great department of industry, in different localities scattered all over the county, and especially among the great forests of cedar on the Alsea river and its tributaries, adjacent to the navigable waters of Alsea bay, whence lumber can be exported in sailing vessels to any part of the world. The excellent coal beds discovered in the Yaquina valley and within reach of the navigable waters of Yaquina river and bay need only capital, industry and energy to develop them into resources of great wealth ; while, cod fisheries can be

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profitably established off the banks, and salmon canneries on the rivers, inlets and bays.

Government land can be obtained in some parts of the county, but, as a matter of course, the best lands have been taken and the best locations selected. In the western portion of the county, on the Alsea and Yaquina bays and rivers, there is yet some government land well adapted to dairy purposes-the pure air and sea-breeze being favorable to the preservation of all kinds of dairy productions in the most satisfactory manner, and the tide and overflow lands, also the valleys farther up these streams, furnish the best of range for dairy cows and all kinds of neat cattle.

The Siletz valley in this part of the county is said to be one of the finest parts, and capable of furnishing good homes for more than three hundred families. But this glen is as yet occupied as an Indian Reservation and cannot be settled by whites till Government sees fit to open it to enterprise and industry, which will probably be before many years. The invigorating sea-breeze in this portion of the county fur- nishes a desirable retreat for the invalid in search of health, while those who wish a few months reprieve from the feverish excitements of city life, may here find sports to his taste, for rivers, creeks, and mountain streams are alive with-

" The speckled Trout in springing pride,

The Salmon, monarch of the tide ;

The ruthless Pike, intent on war ; The silver Bass, and mottled Par"-

while elk, bear, deer, beaver, otter, mink and a great variety of water-fowl and small game are abundant in the mountains, valleys, bays and rivers.

The advantages for schooling and religious worship in Benton county-indeed through all the settlements in Oregon-are far superior to what might be expected in so recently and sparsely settled a country. There are school districts organized and schools kept a part of the time during the year, in all the settlements in the county, while, the different religious denominations of almost every persuasion exert their influence to preserve good morals and give tone to society. There are also seminaries and academies in the county for teaching the higher branches, among which may be mentioned the State Agricultural College.

Corvallis, the shire town of Benton county, is a place of considerable trade, located on the Willamette river and occupies one of the handsomest town sites in Oregon. Her numerous stores, busy work-shops, excellent schools and neat churches, her citizens' noted enterprise, industry, refinement and good taste make it a place worthy the attention of the man of business seeking profitable investment for capital in the State. The other towns and post-offices are: Alsea, Collins, King's Valley, Little Elk, Newport, Newton, Oneatta, Philomath, Summit, Tidewater, Toledo, Wald- port and Wells.

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CHAPTER XXXVII.

GENERAL COUNTY HISTORY.

1845 to 1860.

" I hear the tramp of pioneers- Of nations yet to be ; The first low wash of waves, where soon Shall roll a living sea."

" O'er the mountains height Like ocean in its tided might, The living sea rolls onward, on. And onward, on, the stream shall pour, And reach the far Pacific shore, And fill the plains of Oregon."

The early settlement of Benton county antedates its existence. Her beautiful valleys and mountain recesses afforded a grand home for the aboriginal tribes. Here they swarmed in numbers, went through the drama of life, birth, consorting and death, with stolid indifference. How far back in the course of time this race extends, or whence came their progenitors, no man knoweth. If, as some scientists state, the very first evidences of the human ethnology appear on the Pacific Coast, why should we doubt that they are not the descendants of this primitive people? Wars, disease, natural phenomena and other causes may have conspired to destroy the original generation from the face of the earth, or it may have remained for the pale-faced progeny of a kindred, yet far removed race, to perform the final act in the drama of their existence. Be this as it may, the great fact still remains, that when this district of country was first visited by settlers they found it inhabited by a copper-colored people differing materially from those Indians they had been accustomed to encounter to the east of the Rocky Mountains.

What we now know as Benton county, in the year 1845, was occupied by the Klick-i-tats, who, upon the payment of a certain compensation, were the lessees of the Calapooias, the lords of the soil. The latter tribe were not by any means desirable acquaintances, but the former are described as rather peaceful than otherwise, and presented the usual habits and customs characteristic of the " noble red-man."

Here nature had provided for these creatures with a lavish hand ; all they had to do was to reach forth their hands, pluck, eat and live. No vain ambitions lured them on in the great race of life; no baubles of riches enticed them into the hardships of labor, either mental or physical. Theirs only to exist and die. Whence or why they came upon the stage of action, it was not theirs to inquire; and, "whither are we

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drifting ?" was a question over which they stopped not to puzzle their dull brains. And who shall say that they were not as happy in their listless life as are we of the higher type who wrestle with the inevitable almost from our infancy to our dotage ? From an ethical stand-point, and viewing the matter through the lenses of education, of course we would say that their lives were worse than wasted; and when they vanished before the overwhelming tide of civilization, the world was rid of so much putrescence. But it is the old, old, fable of the man and the lion repeated ; seeing a picture of a man, the man remarked to the lion that " there stood the lord of creation." The lion asked, who painted the picture, to which the man replied, "a man did." " Ah !" said the lion, " it makes all the difference in the world who paints the picture of the lord of creation. I would have painted a lion." And so it is in this case : Indian ethics are not our ideas of duty to self or man ; and it is not beyond the bounds of probability that they lived up to the light they had on that subject quite as nearly as do their successors in the land.

The folk-lore of these original denizens of Benton county still remain to us in legendary tales, one of which, as romantic as it is beautiful we give.

Down by the mouth of Alsea bay, where the Pacific waves beat ceaselessly on the shifting bar, the land runs out into a sandy beach. Here and there are hillocks in which lie hidden the canoes of the dead Indians. In each canoe which is buried, the owner, provided with fishing spear and paddle, for the voyage out into the western sea, each little vessel is set in due rank in the fleet of the dead, all prows pointing to the setting sun, and all alike are covered with the grave clothes of the heaped up sand. Now and again the winter storm will uncover piece by piece these relics of a buried past ; and, once uncovered, the frail sepulchre and its treasures are speedily blown and beaten into dust, and leave no trace. The traveler can but imagine the numbers of these dead tribes by the mounds of clam and oyster shells, many feet in thickness and many yards in extent, which mark the site of their former camping places. The gatherers of these sea-dainties have long since passed away, and even our first records tell of a time when wars, pestilence, and the gradual pressure on these sea coast dwellers by other tribes displaced from their hunting grounds in the east and south, had already done their work. Tribes formerly numbering hundreds of warriors were reduced to a few families, but each group kept its tribal customs, and maintained a deep, though feeble enmity against equally fallen foes of generations back.

Here and there along the coast, or hanging round the outskirts of the hated homesteads of the white invaders, are yet found Indians of a low and crushed type, who claim the name but have abandoned whatever savage force or savage virtues their forefathers could boast. When the white men began to settle in the Alsea district nearly a quarter of a century ago, they found there the remains of three tribes; the " Alseas," by the bay and on the coast, a people of fishers; the "Klickitats," who hunted in the woods, and over the mountains to the south, and the "Drift Creek Indians" whose homes were scattered through the heavy timber, round Table Moun- tain, and on the streams heading thereabouts, to the east and northeast of the Alsea. Though generally at enmity, each with the other, yet there were some times when, feuds laid aside, the hunting tribes visited their neighbors by the ocean in peace, bring- ing with them the spoils of the chase to exchange for the sea fish and the shell fish of

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the Alseas. Fires were lighted along the beach and under the headland, the canoes were drawn up side by side on the shore and feasting and jollity went on for day in and day out together.

Once upon a time there was a pretty maiden of the Alseas, whose name was "Calling Quail." None other could more neatly paddle a canoe, or know better how or where to gather the luscious rock oyster or slippery clam. She was kind and gentle as well as pretty, and many a youth of the Alseas sought her as his bride. But she was coy and turned a deaf ear to all her wooers. The summer time was passing and the Klickitats came down the river, their canoes laden with deer meat for the customary feast. The days were yet long and the nights balmy and mild, and the Klickitat hunters sung and danced round the cheerful fire of drift-logs on the beach, with the Alsea maidens looking on. None among the hunters brought a better store of venison, none was better liked among his comrades, none wore more gracefully the trappings and finery of the tribe than young "Wrestling Bear." His very name was a trophy, for it was given him in record of a gallant fight with the great black monster whose skin was now his most valued possession. Poor "Calling Quail's" time had come-she looked and loved. The old story even then was old, and young men and maidens lingered late along the shore, and sat hand in hand in the shadows of the dark pine wood, as they have done ever since men knew that women were fair, and women thought that men were brave.

But the feasting days passed by and the Klickitats returned to the glades and ravines, of their woods. But now and again a canoe, the shape of which "Calling Quail" knew well, would steal down the stream, and just as evening closed in the shadows in the woods grew dark, she would hear the soft, quick whistle of her name- sake bird, and then-why she had to fetch water from that little spring which was hidden in the deep dell, among the pines and rushes, from all anxious eyes. Still such meetings were rare, as the elk were in good season, and "Wrestling Bear" must lay in a good store of meat and many hides, and his hunting called him far away into the wilderness. But now it was time for the "Drift Creek" tribe to pay their visit to the coast. Their canoes too came round the bend and drew up on the same sandy beach. Again the big fire burned as night fell, and the Alseas welcomed these visitors also with feasting, song and dance. The Chief of the "Drift Creek" people was more feared than loved; for "Grey Wolf" deserved his name also. For him to look upon what others prized was to desire it for his own, and to desire was to spare no labor, to hesitate at no means, fair or foul, to secure it for himself. Grim and dark, silent and stern, he sought no love and feared no hate. His roving eye fell on poor little "Calling Quail," and he signified to her father that when his people's canoes were once more turned up stream, he would carry her with him to share his home where the broad river had its source away in the glorious solitude of the distant hills.

Even an Indian parent hesitated to trust his daughter to "Gray Wolf's" tender mercies. But from the time of Troy downwards, a maiden's tears, a father's doubts, have no right (as the people say) to stand in the way of a political alliance. The Alseas had but one (public) sentiment about it, and their price of "Calling Quail" having been set and paid, the dark day for the sacrifice being offered up drew near. Well she knew how useless her prayers would be to stop, or even delay the hateful 42+

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marriage. The last evening came and she for the last time took her way to the little spring she loved so well. "Grey Wolf" was not deceived by her submissive mien, and some rival of the dusky maid had doubtless warned him that even if he carried "Calling Quail" away with him on the morrow, a young and active enemy would follow quickly on his trail. She, poor girl, thought she was alone in her journey to the spring, but her jealous purchaser stealthily followed on her steps. At the familiar trysting place of course young "Wrestling Bear" was waiting for his dear, and the meeting was none the less passionate, the parting none the less bitter, because their skins were dark. Night fell on the lovers' vows and kisses, and with renewed hope "Calling Quail " retraced her steps between the rustling bushes and under the heavy pine trees' shade, knowing that when "Gray Wolf's" canoe passed the rapids next day at noon, rescue would be at hand. Alas, that bushes have ears and that the hidden listener was the last one in all the world to be made privy to their plans. "Wrestling Bear " passed away into the darkness, following the little trail by which he was wont to find his way from the nook by the big tree where his canoe was tied. Hark! was that a human cry welling out by unexpected agony? "Calling Quail" shuddered as she caught the echo of it from the opposite hill, standing on the ridge below which the evening fire blazed.

When the next day's sun rose the morning mist lay heavy on river and bay, and the drops quivered on every leaf. "Calling Quail" was stirring early and saw to the morning meal ; the parting words with her companions were all said, and she waited for the first time impatiently, for her hated bridegroom. His canoe was packed and she stood ready for the journey. Soon she saw him slowly drawing near; his dark, face was sullen and lowering, and he seemed struck now and again with sudden spasms of pain. "Grey Wolf is sick, he will not go to-day," was all the greeting he bestowed, and turned again to the shelter where he seemed to have passed a restless night. Her heart misgave her as she pictured the impatient waiting of that other canoe, away there in the wilderness, where the river boiled and tore over the big rocks. "How long will he stay for me?" she thought, " How can I tell him that come I will, even if I have to come alone."

The day wore slowly on, the shadows lengthened and grew darker in the woods and the setting sun threw rays of blood along the quivering waters of the bay. The fire was fed with pine knots for the evening meal, and "Calling Quail " moved with feverish impatience about the camp. "Grey Wolf" lay sullenly in his tyhee. The maiden could rest no longer. "I go to get clams for to-morrow's feast for these hungry men," she said, and hurried down the bank to her canoe. Her paddle seemed to be dashed in a crimson flood as she passed quickly away from the sun-lighted beach up towards the dark beaches of the Alsea.

Supper was ended, and hosts and visitors were gathered round the fire-several times they tried a well-known fishing song, sung by the Alseas when the canoes start for the day's work on the placid waters of the bay-but gloom and foreboding seemed, for some unknown cause, to hang over all ; and silence reigned, only broken by the soft lapping of the outgoing tide on the sandy beach, and the murmur of the breakers on the bar. And now, ere the sunlight had quite gone, the moon arose and cast her white radiance over the peaceful scene.

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History of Benton County, Oregon, Part 49

Author: David D. Fagan Publication date: 1885 Publisher: Number of Pages:

Author: David D. Fagan
Publication date: 1885
Publisher:
Number of Pages: