History of Benton County, Oregon, Part 73

Author: David D. Fagan
Publication date: 1885
Publisher:
Number of Pages:

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The population of the precinct is almost entirely confined to the banks of the Yaquina river and numbers but little over a hundred souls. The cultivation of oats, hay and the different kinds of vegetables has been universal and successful, while there are a number of young orchards that have every appearance of future perfectness. As the traveler finds his way through this country he will here and there observe a few sheep or beeves reveling in the most luscious herbage that grows up on every hand, even to decay, and yet it is a fact that butter is imported into the country. The country is interesting, not so much for what it is, but for what it is capable of being made. It should be the elysium of the cattle and sheep farmer. Owing to the heavy growth of vegetation, fire can be made to run through the country in the fall, when by sowing

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seeds of the tame grasses good pastures would be had in a very short space of time; while, owing to the immense fires that have over-run the country vast quantities of ashes have been left on the ground, which, with the decay of the prodigious vegetable growth from year to year has produced a rich black friable soil extending to the sum- mits of the highest hills.

Most travelers over the Yaquina road will not fail to remember Mr. M. L. Trapp's place. Here they have seen what enterprise and energy can effect towards making a farm among the mountains.

The earliest settlement of what is now Elk City precinct was made in the year 1866 when the country was thrown open. Among the first to locate were, R. L. Feagles, John Stewart, G. W. Johnson, T. J. Blair, C. B. Blair, Oliver Blair, Holmes Blair, M. W. Simpson, A. Card, - Hite, T. P. Fish, Henry Winchell, E. A. Abbey, James Glass, Samuel Logan, A. Cloak and father, James Leabo, Joseph Leabo, George Kistler, - Williams, Abiatha Newton (from whom the post-office takes its name), Michael Galloway, - Norwood, Hazard Smith, J. E. Dixon, W. F. Dixon, Cyrus Dixon, Joseph Curles, David Newsome, A. Mathena, W. W. Oglesby, John White, - Morrison, D. Carlisle, Doc. Stacy, - Stump, W. T. Bryon, J. T. Galloway, John J. Galloway, Dr. George Kellogg, Jason Kellogg, - Starr, Benjamin Boydson, Benjamin Schloup, M. L. Trapp, Charles McLane, Nelson Tharp, Benjamin Tharp, E. Brannan, William Rook, John Wis. Carson, John Shipley, - McBey, E. H. Baber, Levi Hunt, William Woods, Abraham Woods, C. B. Mays, F. H. Sawtell, E. N. Sawtell.

ELK CITY.

This town is located at the junction of Yaquina and Big Elk rivers and is a pleasant place to pass a few weeks in fishing, hunting, etc. The grass and vegetation is fresh and green the year round. The pure cold spring water rushing down the mountain sides enlivens and beautifies the valleys below and quench the thirst of those who partake of the pure and sparkling beverage. The climate is mild and the air fresh, balmy and invigorating. Being surrounded with grand and lofty mountains the scenery is diversified and picturesque and well protected from heavy winds; while, the surroundings are the most pleasant for those seeking health and amusement, of any place on Yaquina bay.

The first settlement in Elk City was made by the Corvallis and Yaquina Wagon Road Company who erected a warehouse there in 1866, and laid out the town, while in this building was opened the first store, by Winant & Co. in that year. That same fall Joseph Leabo opened a mercantile establishment, which he conducted until he sold out to G. W. Johnson.

In the year 1867, T. J. Blair established the Blair House, while, about the same time the school-house of District No. 32 was built to serve the double purpose of a church and scholastic institution, taught by J. H. Canterbury. In the month of Feb- ruary of that year, a portion of the bridge was carried away by a large amount of drift- wood, during a flood that submerged nearly all the bottom land along the Yaquina river.

Elk City is as high up as boats now ordinarily run, although it is possible for them to ascend for two miles beyond. Here is the terminus for the present of the mail

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route as carried overland, the further carriage of post-office matter being taken on by water.

From Elk City there is a road leading over Elk Hill four miles, where it joins the road that follows the course of the river, past Pioneer, giving a choice of highways.

PIONEER CITY.

At the head of tide water, two miles from Elk City, on the Yaquina river, is this old town, which in 1866 had its season of prosperity, but since then it has lost much of its pristine glory. The town was laid out in 1866 by Dr. George Kellogg, who also built the first house on the site, a warehouse for the accommodation of trade on the river, constructed it is believed in the latter part of the previous year. In the year 1873, E. S. Altree erected a grist mill in the vicinity of Pioneer, which not long after . was carried away by a freshet in the river. The town at present consists of but a few houses.

TUM TUM PRECINCT begins at the divide between Little Elk creek and the Yaquina river on the north and extends to the dividing ridge between the waters of the Big Elk creek and Alsea river on the south, and from the mouth of the Little Elk to a point a little west of Blodget's valley, being in the vicinity of twelve miles from east to west and ten from north to south. It is actually bounded on the north by Summit precinct, on the south by Alsea precinct, on the west by Elk City precinct and on the east by King's Valley and Philomath precincts.

Little Elk creek near the central portion of the precinct, passing out at its north- east corner ; while the Big Elk has its source in the southeast corner of the west and southwest slopes of Mary's Peak, and flowing westerly enters Elk City precinct. Ris- ing on the northwest gradient of Mary's Peak is that fork of Mary's river called Shot Pouch which, after flowing in a northerly direction for some distance, turns abruptly to the southeast ; while, at the most northerly point of the precinct the Tum Tum comes in from the westward.

Bordering the stream last named is a beautiful mountain glen, lying at a high altitude and extending as far as the Summit towards Little Elk creek, whose valley is much lower and comprises wide lands long ago brought into cultivation. Big Elk river has larger bottom lands on its banks than any other stream in the region; while on such of the smaller water-courses, such as Deer and Wolf creeks, and the several brooks on the north and south, considerable fertile lands are seen, clothed with the richest pasture for stock of all kinds. Many excellent farms have been made along the courses of the Big Elk and its tributaries, yet there is room for more; but this valley is, so far, isolated, there being only a single thoroughfare that connects it with the upper end; still there is no reason why one should not be constructed to Elk City. The Shot Pouch, which is afterwards known as one of the forks of Mary's river, rejoices in much valua- ble land along its route, now for the most part covered with a growth of the wild cherry. Still there are portions of it in cultivation, but owing to its high position it is subject to keen frosts. Mary's Peak, which marks the northeastern corner of Alsea precinct, is situated in the southeast angle of Tum Tum. It attains an altitude of four thousand feet and is often snow-capped until the month of August. Its summit is

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bald, devoid of timber but covered with a growth ofindiginous grass better than which for pasturage is not to be found anywhere. In form the apex is crescent-shaped, com- prises between three and four hundred acres, owned by the veteran pioneer, William Wyatt, who uses it during the summer months as a range for horses.

Like in other portions of the district the timber has succumbed to the devouring element, but there are sufficient remains to show that there once existed a magnificent cedar forest.

The early settlers in this precinct first supplied their household wants from what the country then afforded. Until their lands could be brought into subjection they usually depended upon shingle making as a source of revenue, or barter for groceries, while their tables were laden with venison, then more plentiful amid the hills than now.

Little grain is produced in Tum Tum precinct, the chief industry being stock- raising, which is year by year growing into greater importance, their ranches being extended as their flocks and herds increase. Pasturage is extended by the sowing of tame grasses, the seed for which is the product of their own labor, while the farmers here have for some time past supplied the Corvallis market with beef and mutton bred upon their lands. The capabilities of this precinct are second to none in the county, while the opportunities for taking up farms is as good as in any other portion of the State.

The population is about two hundred and fifty, chiefly composed of agricultur- ists, who are greatly in want of postal facilities, their nearest distributing point being at Philomath, some twenty to thirty miles away. The precinct includes three school houses in Big Elk, Shot Pouch, and the vicinity of Little Elk valleys, while religious services are irregularly held in these buildings or in the private residences of set- tlers. There is no store within the precinct, supplies being drawn from either Cor- vallis or Philomath. Among the first settlers in this precinct were Alfred Flickinger, James C. and J. H. Yantis and Sol Mulkey. 64+

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CHAPTER LIII.

ALSEA, LOWER ALSEA, AND TIDE WATER PRECINCTS.

ALSEA PRECINCT, No. 6, extends from the ridge that divides the waters of the Big Elk and Alsea rivers to the southern boundary of the county, and from the divide between the water-shed of the Willamette and Alsea rivers on the east to Tide Water precinct on the west, the length from north to south being about fifteen miles and from east to west in the vicinity of twelve miles. These boundaries include Alsea valley, a beautiful expanse of country some eight miles long and one wide. Not far from its upper end the two branches of the river unite, causing a widening of the vale to about four miles, forming a level prairie now thickly settled, and surrounded with lofty timber-covered hills. Here were the first settlements made more than thirty years ago when many claims were taken under the provisions of the Donation Law, which, it would appear entitled the pre-emptor to the land not covered with brush, and as no one thought of clearing the ground at that period, it was supposed that everything worth occupying had been appropriated. Of later years, however, many have gone into the woods and demonstrated the fact that such lands may be profitably improved. The soil on the low hills surrounding the valley is of excellent quality, and yields abun- dantly of grain and vegetables, while the best crops of flax produced in Benton county have grown in this locality. The people are intelligent which they exemplify by practicing a mixed husbandry consisting of grain and fruit growing, cattle, sheep and hog raising which they naturally find more profitable than giving their undivided attention to wheat crops. They live in peace and prosperity in consequence.

Ever since the settlement of the Alsea valley it has been noted for the quantity and quality of the butter produced, the climate, as well as the herbage being particu- larly favorable for the fruits of the dairy. At one time wheat was grown to a large extent which when garnered was taken by wagons over an arduous route to Corvallis. The farmer, however, wearied of this slow process and found out that grain could be more profitably used as feed for swine, which has been done, and with such good results, that Alsea precinct is one of the chief pork-producing centers of the county.

Conterminous to the valley of the Alsea is a considerable quantity of partially settled country. For eight or ten miles to the southward, until Lobster creek is reached, the land is rolling and productive ; while along the valley last-named there is a general settlement, but plenty of room for more. To the east of the valley, along the line of the south road, there is also a fine open country, the same remark applying to that on the North Fork of the Alsea river.

Communication with the valley of the Willamette is had by two thoroughfares; one up the North Fork of the Alsea and down the South Fork of Mary's river, a dis-

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tance of about twenty-five miles to Corvallis, which has been the only highway out of the valley for a good many years, but not long ago, the residents have succeeded in opening a new, and what is claimed to be a better means of transit, farther south, towards Monroe, in the southern portion of the county. For years it has been a tedious operation the transporting of the produce of the valley to market, but within a com- paratively brief space of time a trade has sprung up by way of the river with the lower district and bay. The products of the valley consist chiefly of hams, flour and butter which are now loaded on scows and carried down the river during the higher stages of the water, where a good market is found, the boats being then disposed of as it is impossible to take them back against the current. Besides these arteries of progress there is the trail to Tide Water.

The precinct abounds with timber. Not far from the head of the valley, David Ruble has a flouring-mill and a saw-mill as well, while, at the head of the South Fork of the Alsea river, in the eastern portion of the precinct, and near the Summit, are two more saw-mills, the lumber from which is transported over the mountains into the Willamette valley. There is one post-office in the precinct supplied with a bi-weekly mail from Dallas, in Polk county ; there being also a weekly mail route from Alsea down the river to Waldport. There are three school-houses within the confines of the precinct where instruction is given during a great part of the year, the buildings, in the absence of churches, being used for religious services as required. The population consists of about three hundred and fifty persons.

Among the early settlers of the Alsea valley, and not the least in shaping its des- tiny is James Edwards, for many years a most efficient County Commissioner. Another pioneer of the district was Edward Winkle. Many will remember this gentleman as he appeared with moccasins on his feet, his ever-present trusty rifle on his shoulder, and butcher-knife in his belt. Whither his inclination led him there he went, through mountain passes without regard to road or trail, always depending upon his weapon for food. Of him it is related that on one occasion, in order to attack a bear bayed by his faithful dog, it became necessary to crawl under the brush for some distance and finally to pass underneath a log, which having successfully accomplished, just as he straight- ened from his prone position, and before getting his gun out, he found himself face to face with Bruin, who struck him on the breast, tearing off his clothing and lacerating the flesh in a frightful manner. Fortunately his dog came to the rescue, when the bear turned upon the canine, succeeded in getting him into his grasp and was about to end his career, when Winkle, feeling that it was to the sagacity of the dog that his life had been saved, considered that it was but justice that he should return the favor, closed in on the bear with his knife, fought him hand to hand, and succeeding in giving him his quietus. Man and dog were barely able to creep to their cabin, where they both lay for several days before help came to them, and that by accident.

Among those who first settled in Alsea valley we have been able to gather the names of Emmerson Rettneaur and Thomas and Asbury Ellis, who in 1852 located on the place now owned by William Taylor and J. Mason. They were followed by George and S. Rycraft, who took the Donation claim now owned by Squire Rycraft. Not long after these arrived Thomas and Allen Hugden, who settled in the upper end of the valley, and Jacob Holgate, in the vicinity of the Rycrafts. In 1853 James E.

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Edwards, Joseph Kellum and two sons located, since when the settlement has proceeded slowly but prosperously. The first farming in the precinct was done by Rycraft Broth- ers; in 1871 the postoffice was established in charge of Thomas Russell, and in 1863 the first school was opened under the mastership of J. E. Clarke, in a vacant house on the Kellum place. Three years after a log school house was erected on the sitenow occupied by the postoffice, but after eight years usage was torn down.

LONE STAR MILL .- This enterprise, owned by C. C. & W. B. Chandler, was com- menced in 1884 and opened for business on the fifteenth November of that year. It is situated at the mouth of Mill creek, on Alsea river, and has a capacity of about twenty-five barrels of flour per day.

RUBLE's MILLS .- These mills are located at the upper end of Alsea valley and prove a boon to the country in which they are located. The saw mill was constructed in 1872 and the grist mill in 1873. When first started the latter was fitted with a single pair of burrs and had a capacity of about one hundred bushels in ten hours, while the former had but a single sash saw, capable of producing fifteen hundred feet of lumber per day. In 1884 a new saw mill was built in the forks formed by the Alsea river and Rock creek, and on the opposite side from the old site. This building is fitted with a circular saw, planer, etc., while the lumber manufactured is from the great forests of cedar, fir, alder and maple that abound in the vicinity. There are one hundred and twenty acres attached to the mills.

INMON MILL .- This mill, owned by D. W. Inmon, is situated on the South Fork of the Alsea river, among the mountains of the Coast Range, about twelve miles west of Monroe, and a mile and a half north of the Lane county line. It was first started in the fall of 1868 by H. A. Belknap, W. Tosier and W. Waltz, and in 1869 an inter- est in it was sold to Mr. Inmon, who eventually bought out his partners. The estab- lishment is fitted with circular saws, and has a capacity of twenty thousand feet per day. The timber surrounding the mill consists chiefly of fir, cedar and hemlock, of which lands there are three huudred and twenty acres adjoining and exclusively owned by the mill. Mr. Inmon has suffered much loss from forest fires. In the summer of 1882 his flumes and dams were destroyed by a great conflagration, and on December the twenty-second of the same year his lodging house was consumed and two men, Frank Leonard and George Blake, burned to death, and Joe Sheppard seriously hurt. At this mill Mr. Inmon gives employment to twenty-two men, produces a first-class lum- ber and has a ready market for his manufactures in the surrounding country.

LOWER ALSEA PRECINCT is situated in the southwest portion of Benton county and extends along the coast from Beaver creek, some six or eight miles north of Alsea bay to the south line of the county about ten miles south, being about sixteen miles along the beach and about six miles from east to west. It embraces Alsea bay and its surroundings.

In producing a description of Alsea bay it is thought best to quote the survey report of Assistant Engineer R. A. Habersham, made September, 18, 1878, to Colonel J. M. Wilson, United States Army.

"The Alsea enters into the sea twelve miles south of the mouth of the Yaquina.

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EVANGELICAL.

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The road connecting the two points lies along the sea beach, except for the distance of one mile and a half, opposite Seal Rock, where the coast line is rocky, rising vertically out of the sea at low tide line. The river rises in the Coast Range, thirty miles in a direct line from the ocean. Its general course is westward. The principal tributaries are Fall creek and Pine rivers, the former entering from the north, twenty-eight miles by river, from the sea, the latter six miles lower .. Drift creek, which flows into Alsea bay at its head, is a tidal slough or lagoon, navigable for small boats for four miles. It does not contribute to the volume af the river proper, although it is included in the same general drainage basin which covers an area of three hundred square miles.

"The tide extends twelve miles from the head of the bay to the foot of a line of rapids, where my personal examination ended. Here the stream is eighty feet wide and from three to six feet deep at low tide. Above it is a mountain stream, navigated only by Indian canoes, with a swift current and rocky bed. Below it is a tidal channel with no perceptible river current, widening gradually down to the mouth of Drift creek, where it is three hundred feet across. The depth along this section at low tide varies from four to six feet, the bottom being very uneven, and in some places, rocky. The bay is three and one-half miles long and from two thousand to seven thousand feet across at high tide. At low tide a large extent of mud flats is left bare, forming islands between which the channels are so shallow as to admit only small boats and scows. For a mile inside of the bar there is good anchorage, with a depth of from twelve to twenty feet at low water, constituting a harbor of about eighty acres in area, sheltered on all sides. Immediately inside of the bar is a deep hole two thousand feet long and three hundred feet wide, at the curve, of eighteen feet depth, in which no bottom was found at thirty-six feet.

" The above data concerning the bay were obtained from the chart of the survey made in 1875 under the direction of Major N. Michler. At the head of the bay, in the principal channel, there is a bar half a mile long, on which I found only three feet at low water. This point is not included in the limits of the survey.

" Between the mouth of Drift creek and the head of tide water, twelve miles, the river is inclosed on both sides by hills ranging from three hundred to six hundred feet in height, thickly covered with salal, grass, fern and young thicket. On the left bank the slopes of the hills reach generally to the waters' edge. On the right bank a strip of level bottom, several feet above high tide level, and from two hundred to six hun- dred feet wide, extends throughout this section, broken at points by projecting spurs from the ridge. This strip is all taken up under the homestead and pre-emption laws, and is mostly under cultivation. It is all alluvial soil, producing excellent corn, vege- tables and fruit, and wheat equal to any that I have seen in Oregon.

" The river is the northern boundary of the Alsea Indian Reservation.

" For thirty miles from the coast inland, the greater portion of the large timber in the valley has been destroyed by fire. Forty miles from the bay, measured along the river, is the valley of Upper Alsea, covering three hundred square miles, in which some fifty or more families are settled. Its principal productions are wheat, flax, oats and cattle. A wagon road exists connecting it with tide water. The principal value of the Alsea district is in its forests of fir and cedar, which cover the country above the burnt section, the timber being of the best quality and of large size. Salmon visit

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the river in large numbers, the season commencing between the twentieth and thirtieth of . August, and lasts two months.

"The information concerning the Upper Alsea country was furnished by Mr. Thomas Russell, an old resident, and postmaster at Tide Water on the Lower Alsea.

"It was not possible to make a personal examination of Alsea bar, owing to the prevalence of a heavy fog, rough sea and bad weather generally, and for the want of a suitable boat. I, however engaged two of the residents of the vicinity to go out on the bar the first calm day and run a line of soundings across, out to deep water. From them the following information has since been received: least depth on bar in channel at low tide, eight feet; width of entrance, twelve hundred feet; distance across the bar, eighteen hundred feet.

"No survey has ever been made of this bar, nor has any project for its improve- ment been suggested. All that the parties interested request from the government is that the depth of water be officially declared and the entrance buoyed, owners of steamers in San Francisco having assured them that when this is done they will send light draught steamers to carry off the products of the valley.

"Up to the present time only one vessel, a small schooner built in Alsea bay, has crossed the bar."

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History of Benton County, Oregon, Part 73

Author: David D. Fagan Publication date: 1885 Publisher: Number of Pages:

Author: David D. Fagan
Publication date: 1885
Publisher:
Number of Pages: