The Register of Pennsylvania : devoted to the preservation of facts and documents and every other kind of useful information respecting the state of Pennsylvania, Vol. XII, Part 12

Author: Hazard, Samuel, 1784-1870
Publication date: 1828
Publisher: Philadelphia : Printed by W.F. Geddes ;
Number of Pages: 438

USA > Pennsylvania > The Register of Pennsylvania : devoted to the preservation of facts and documents and every other kind of useful information respecting the state of Pennsylvania, Vol. XII > Part 12

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Such must have been the character of the rail road surface, if it had been carried in a direction towards the Permanent Bridge. By the route adopted, and which we are now travelling, the inclination never exceeds thirty feet in the mile, and is almost uniformly ascending to the summit of the South Valley Hill, near the War- ren, where the elevation is 547 feet above tide, making a rise of 323 feet in about 20 miles.

The gradation of this part of the line has been rather expensive. It includes several heavy embankments, and bridges across ravines at points where the smaller streams have cut deeply into the dividing ridge. In several instances, also, it has been necessary to pass the summit, and transfer the line from one slope to the other, occasioning, generally, a considerable deep cut.

The country between Belmont, and the Warren, a distance of 20 miles, is too well known to need descrip-

SKETCHES OF PENNSYLVANIA.

1833.]

tion. It is thickly settled, and in general well cultiva- ted-with very little wood, and that little very rapidly disappearing. Coal obtained from the Schuylkill is al- ready much used. In a short time it must be the uni- versal fuel. The natural soil of this section is not re- markably good. It has been enriched, however, by judicious cultivation so as to yield good crops of corn, wheat, and grass. The farmers of this district, almost all attend the city market regularly, with the products of their farms-butter, eggs, poultry, vegetables, &c. The population is industrious and thriving. The build- ings are substantial, and the whole district has an air of cheerfulness and comfort.

No villages of any consequence have occurred as yet. We have passed the Buck Tavern; the Spread Eagle, and the Paoli, all of excellent quality, and kept by most substantial and respectable men, besides a host of in- ferior taverns which have sprung up for the accommoda- tion of wagoners on the turnpike.

Near the Paoli Tavern is the scene of the bloody sur- prize and massacre inflicted by General Grant upon a part of Wayne's brigade during the revolutionary war; and further on, just this side of the Warren, is a ravine through which a countryman led the British General in his midnight excursion. The country was then wooded, and this pass was so little known that no precaution was taken against attack from that quarter. It was a bloody business-traditions say the traitor guide fell at first fire from the American camp.

Having now traversed the route leading through the counties of Philadelphia and Delaware, and entered the important county of Chester; and having got a fair start in our contemplated journey through the state, we shall take care not to weary ourselves, or our com- panions (by the way, we are happy to see the number increasing so rapidly ) by too long stages, at least at first.

The Warren Tavern kept by our old friend Fahne- stock, ever since the Revolution, or for aught we know, since Braddock's defeat, or Cromwell's war, is close at hand. We know that a good bed awaits us there, and as to supper, let fat Dinah, the cook, alone, for getting up the eatables, always provided she has been moderate in her drafts upon the contents of the bar.

At the Warren therefore we sleep-calculating to take our first look into the Chester valley just as it be- comes glorious beneath the rays of the rising sun.

No. 2.

Our first sketch broke off abruptly on the top of the South Valley hill, near the Warren Tavern, and about 20 miles from Philadelphia. Resuming our journey, the first object that strikes us is the Chester Valley, im- mediately below us, and stretching from east to west as far as the eye can reach. Whoever has a taste for beautiful scenery, and especially for that in which smil ing and well cultivated fields are a main ingredient, will do well to pause at this spot. He may travel much farther without finding any thing superior. Probably no equal portion of the continent contains a larger amount of agricultural wealth and rural comfort than this valley, called by its inhabitants the "Great Valley," for no better reason that we know of, except, that it happens to be the smallest of those similar formations by which the state is traversed.

The Valley proper may be regarded as commencing on the Schuylkill, not far from Norristown, and extend- ing westwardly a little inclining to the south, crossing both branches of the Brandywine, and losing itself among the hills about three miles west of the west branch of that stream. Its length is not farfrom thirty miles, and its greatest breadth, judging by the eye, about six miles. It gradually narrows as you proceed westward, and after passing the little Brandywine, is confined within very narrow limits. Its whole course is included in the county of Chester, except two townships of Montgome- ry, lying west of the Schuylkill, (Upper and Lower Merion.) It is bounded on each side by hills of conside-

rable height but of gradual slope, called the North and South Valley Hills. The formation of the valley is lime- stone of the transition kind, which soon disappears as you ascend the hills on either side. To the presence of limestone ofexcellent quality, in inexhaustible quantity, and easily quarried, it is indebted in a great degree for its high state of cultivation, and for the wealth and prosperity for which its inhabitants have always been remarkable.

Though the Valley (so called) terminates at the Schuylkill on the east, yet the same formation conti- nues on the other side, including several townships of Montgomery county, and passing through Bucks to the Delaware, near New Hope. Traces of it are found on the Jersey side near Lambertsville. The lime of Ply- mouth and Whitemarsh, both east of the Schuylkill, is deemed the best that comes to our market. On the line thus indicated from West Brandywine to the Delaware, will be found the most valuable farms of Chester, Mont- gomery, and Bucks.

In this formation also occurs the marble, both black and white, used for building and for mantles in Philadel- phia. It shows itself in various places, but is only work- ed at points of easy communication with the city. The principal quarries, are Hitner's, east of the Schuylkill, on the road from Germantown to Norristown; and Hen- derson's west of the river in Lower Merion. It is also found and considerably worked at West Whiteland, seven miles west of the Warren.

The land in the Chester valley is of excellent quality, improved to a high degree by cultivation. Of course, its agricultural product is very great, finding employ- ment for a great number of mills, and affording a large export to the Philadelphia market. It is watered by several branches of the Schuylkill and Brandywine which have considerable fall, and afford good mill-seats.

The inhabitants of this region are principally of the society of Friends, or at least descended from Quakers. The characteristics of that respectable sect are very visible in the neatness, order, and comfort that prevail. Property seldom changes hands, except in the regular course of transmission from father to son, and a sheriff's sale of valley land for debt is almost a phenomenon. The houses are almost invariably of stone; and that spe- cies of rough cast denominated pebble-dashing is very fashionable. Besides its abundant agricultural products, lime is a staple of this valley, as well for home consump- tion as for exportation. Great quantities of it find a market in Wilmington and Philadelphia. The burning oflime has made sad havoc among the timber; already the very tops of the boundary hills begin to look bare in many places, while below, the trees have nearly dis. appeared. It cannot be long before coal must be the universal fuel for domestic and for all other purposes. That coal must come from the Susquehanna, or from the Schuylkill, and MUST PASS ON THE PENNSYLVANIA RAIL ROAD.

But it is time we had resumed our journey. From the summit of the South Valley Hill, then, we begin to descend on its northern slope, at the rate of twenty-eight feet in the mile, which rate of graduation is maintained for about eight miles, when we arrive at Valley Creek, which we cross by a viaduct five hundred and seventy- seven feet long, and fifty-eight above the water line.

We have now attained the surface of the valley with- in a few feet. This stream is not so large as the length of the bridge would indicate, being nothing more than what would be called a respectable mill stream. It runs, however, in a wide ravine over which the bridge is thrown. By it the water of one half that part of the valley east of Downingtown is carried off, and poured into the main branch of the Brandywine. It interlocks with another creek of the same name, which empties into the Schuylkill four or five miles above Norristown. Near the mouth of the latter is the "Valley Forge," so conspicuous in American history. . The mention of this celebrated spot almost tempts us to enter upon a sketch

MAJ. MOSES VAN CAMPEN.

[JULY

of the military operations of which it was the centre, during the winter of '77-78. On a future occasion we shall probably do so, as it will enable us to explain more fully the topography of the region within thirty miles of Philadelphia-besides illustrating some remarkable cir- cumstances connected with the position and the opera- tions of the army at that time which have never yet, as we believe, been fully developed in history. Mean- while, having passed Valley creek, we proceed by the rail road, westward, gradually approaching the middle of the valley for about three miles to the main branch of the Brandywine, immediately south of the flourishing village of Downingtown. The graduation continues to be descending at the rate of twenty-eight feet in the mile, to within halfa mile of the creek when it begins to ascend at the same rate. The viaduct across this stream, is four hundred and sixty five feet long, and twenty-six feet above the water. The crossing place here is re- markably favorable. Our description of Downingstown and Brandywine must be reserved for a future number.

In our journey of to-day we have passed the road leading to the Yellow Springs. It diverges from the Lancaster turnpike at the Ship Tavern, five miles west of the Warren. This favorite resort of our citizens in the summer is situated on the high ground north of the valley, in the midst of a fertile and salubrious country. To the fine air and agreeable walks which surround the Springs, more, perhaps, than to any medical quality of the water, must be attributed the benefits which inva- lids derive from a visit to this elevated region. The water is intensely cold, and very slightly impregnated with iron, which, by communicating a yellowish tinge, gives name to the spot. The cold bath for plunging, or in showers, is used by the visiters with excellent effect.

We omitted also to notice, that on the south valley hill, the West Chester rail road joins the great state line. From the hill, nearly all the way to West Chester, the distance is, by the course pursued, nine miles. As the state rail road begins to descend the hill at the same point, and continues on the northern slope, the two works lie close to each other for three or four miles, the one increasing in elevation as we proceed-the other decreasing. When the communication between West Chester and the Susquehanna shall be fully esta- blished, and an important trade grow up, it will be ne- cessary to connect the two works by an inclined plane, and stationary power, at a point about three miles from the present junction, in order to avoid the circuit which the present arrangement would require. The scheme is perfectly practicable, and has already attracted the notice of the intelligent Directors of the West Chester Rail Road.

As West Chester is the seat of justice for the impor- tant and flourishing county of Chester, it is entitled to particular attention. We have been promised, by an intelligent gentleman resident there, an accurate ac- count of its history, condition, and prospects, which, as soon as received, will be presented to our readers. Meanwhile we shall only remark, that it is delightfully situated on the high ground between the Brandywine and the head waters of Chester creek, the highest ground for many miles round. It is a prosperous end flourish- ing borough, with about 1300 inhabitants, and is proba- bly the most salubrious and agreeable country residence this side of the Susquehanna. Its population are re- markable for intelligence and public spirit, and for the attention they have paid to literary and scientific sub- jects. It is here one of our favorite exchange papers, "THE VILLAGE RECORD," is published.

In the lead of those who have exerted themselves for the improvement, moral, mental, and physical, of the county of Chester, stands Dr. William Darlington, an eminent physician and naturalist, and a scientific and practical farmer. This gentleman ranks among the first botanists of our country, and is recognised as such by the distinguished Savans of Europe. His work, en- I lighted from the dwellings of their murdered victims.

titled "Florula Cestrica," designed to illustrate the Bo- tanical resources of his native county, has been highly commended by the most competent judges. It is no part of our present plan to praise individuals-but a ca. reer so unostentatious, and yet so practically useful as that of Dr. Darlington, seemed to us to form an excep- tion. He is the pride and favorite of the county of Chester, and justly so, for he has done more to render her population prosperous, intelligent, and happy, than any other individual.

From the Young Men's Advocate. MAJ. MOSES VAN CAMPEN.

We take up the pen to notice a few prominent scenes in the life of this revolutionary patriot. We shall make no attempt at a biographical sketch; our purpose is barely to give publicity to the acts which marked his early military career in the war of the revolution.

That oblivion should envelope in its dusky folds the important services of many of our veteran soldiers, is a reproach upon the national honor; and, as long as the meed of gratitude is withheld, a stain rests on the page which tells the moving history of this proud re- public. The grave has closed on worth and genius- that where and how would unfold a story of national wrong and injustice over which posterity will drop the unbidden tear. In the wilds of the western mountains, forgotten and neglected, the high-born and gallant pa- triot, Arthur St. Clair, closed his earthly pilgrimage. Justice, long delayed, came with its award in time to behold the closing ritual from the hand of strangers. How many of that glorious band, who toiled for the liberties of their country, have been left in ignominious silence, to slumber out the remnant of their days, and pass from among us unhonored and forgotten, cannot now be told. Tardy gratitude comes with the sting of death, and had better be withheld than bestowed. The neglect of this age will receive the just censure of the next, and when posterity shall hold in veneration the names of the fathers of our country, the bitter curse of national ingratitude will be irrevocably fixed upon that period where we could least wish to behold the inglo- rious stigma.

The war of the revolution broke out in the year 1775. Great Britain sent her ships and armies to coerce her American subjects into an humble submission to laws unjust and oppressive in the extreme. The battles of Lexington and Bunker Hill soon taught his Majesty George III. that a manly resistance would be made, and that the revolted colonies would prefer death be- fore submission- All the western posts on the waters of the great lakes, were in the possession of the British. Agents were sent by the crown to all the Indian tribes, from the province of Maine to the state of Georgia, with gold to purchase their friendship and allegiance; and without the exception of a single tribe, the whole savage population became allies to the British government. This band of ruthless foes was stretched like a chain around our western frontiers. On the sea-board the British troops were to be opposed, and on the western borders, the united force of British tories, and Indians.

The subject of this notice was then a citizen of North- umberland county, Pa. After the declaration of Inde- pendence, in the year 1776, in the 18th year of his age, le renounced his allegiance to the King of Great Britain, and took up arms in defence of his country. Having served as a volunteer until August, 1777, he then joined the regiment commanded by Col John Kelly, stationed at Big Island, and Bald Eagle creek, on the west branch of the Susquehanna. He served in this regiment three months. It was during this period that the Indians were roving through the sparsely settled country, in small detachments, spreading havoc and death to a fearful extent. There remained no longer any safety for the inhabitants, as the fires of the savages were nightly

MAJ. MOSES VAN CAMPEN.

1833.]

To preserve the terrified population from the merci- less tomahawk, forts were ordered to be built for their reception. In the spring of 1777, VAN CAMPEN took the command of a small detachment of nine months men, and built a small fort on the waters of Fishing creek which emptied into the north branch of the Susquehan- na river. It was soon filled by the surrounding popu- lation, who fled from their homes and their all, rather than wait till the warwhoop should sound their doom. It was not long before the inmates of the fort were put to the trial of their security. In the month of May, the fort was attacked by a large party of Indians. Van Campen and his men gave them a warm reception, and defended their post manfully. It was at fearful odds that the little band sustained the shock; after a long conflict and a bloody one for the Indians, they collected their scattered forces and withdrew. But savage ven- geance remained unsatisfied; many a fire broke out in the darkness of that night, in the route of the retiring forces. The deserted tenements were all laid in ashes.

The same year, Van Campen intercepted a small par- ty of Indians, and, in the conflict that ensued, he suc- ceeded in killing five. The chief and party ran. In the spring of 1779, a number of companies of boatmen were raised to man the boats built by Government to convey the provisions for Sullivan's army, from sundry places of deposit on the Susquehanna river, to Wilkes- barre, and from thence to Tioga Point. Van Campen was appointed Quarter Master of that department, and superintended the conveyance of the provisions to Tioga Point by water. While the army was lying at Tioga Point, waiting for General James Clinton to arrive with his brigade, at the request of Gen. Sullivan, he recon- noitered the Indian camp at Chemung. The next night, Van Campen went with a detachment, and fought the Indians, at a place called Hogback Hill, and routed them from their ambuscade, with some loss of killed and wounded.

In March, 1780, a party of Indians reached the fron- tiers in the neighborhood of his father's farm, and as Sullivan, in 1779, had destroyed their towns and villages, it was thought they would not venture upon their accus- tomed deeds of violence. In the hope that the frontiers would have some rest, and lulled into a fatal security from the shy movements of this band of savage wariors, many returned to their homes, and ventured to engage in their ordinary occupations. Van Campen went with his father to his Farm, and assisted in erecting a shanty for lodging. On the morning of the 29th of March, they were surprised by a party of ten Indians. His fa- ther and brother were inhumanly killed, scalped, and thrown on the fire, and himself taken prisoner.

Van Campen was pinioned, and the party took up their march. Two other prisoners were taken in the course of the next day. Their route over the mountain was very difficult, and in many places the snow was deep. They came to the north branch of the Susque- hanna, at little Tunkhannock creek where the Indians had moored their canoes after descending the river. When they had crossed over to the east side, the canoes were propelled into the middle of the stream and set adrift. The party then proceeded along the bank of the river towards its source. On the way to Whilusink, Van Campen improved an opportunity which the un- wonted carelessness of the Indians offered, in suggest- ing to his companions in captivity a plan of escape, only, however, to be effected in the total massacre of the In- dian party .

The motive for such a daring attempt was indeed a powerful one, for he well knew their fate, being the first prisoners taken after Sullivan's campaign. Van Campen was well aware, that under these unfavorable auspices, they would, after a parade in savage triumph through the Indian villages, suffer every torture that dispositions wild, uncontrolled, and revengeful, could suggest, and finally grace a burning pile. He reasoned under these convictions, that they had now an inch of

ground to fight on, and if they did not succeed, the al- ternative was to sell their lives as dearly as possible. If another day should close upon them in captivity, and it would soon wing its course, hope would grow faint, and perchance the taunt the triumphs, and the lingering death, would be meted out in all its horrors, while every effort at manly resistance would be palsied. His fellow prisoners agreed to join in the attempt. The natural vigilance of the Indians returned, and it was well for the prisoners that they were far from the place of destination.

On the fourth day of their captivity, a few moments offered for consultation on the mode of attack. As the Indians had on former nights laid five on each side of the fire, the prisoners bound and placed between them, Van Campen's plan was to procure a knife, and at an hour when they were sound in sleep, cut off their bands, disarm the savages of their guns and tomahawks, and the three prisoners with each a tomahawk, come to close work at once. This plan was objected to by the other two. All agreed in the necessity of disarming. The objectors to Van Campen's mode, thought it best for one of the party to fire upon the Indians, on one side of the fire, while the remaining two were engaged in the work ofdeath on the other. Van Campen was decid- edly opposed to this proposition, as the moment a shot was fired, the alarm would be given, and it would then involve the issue in a dreadful uncertainty. They were obstinate, and as there remained no alternative, he sub- mitted, and they pledged themselves one to the other to fight unto the death in the proposed conflict, rather than remain long in captivity, with a cruel death in the prospect.

On the night of the second of April, about 12 o'clock, the prisoners concluded that all the Indians were sound in sleep. Van Campen had previously procured a knife. They rose, cut themselves loose, and immediately removed all the arms. It was a moment of the most thrilling interest; five brawny savages were stretched at length on either side of the fire. The faint light emit- ted from the burning brands, scarcely threw back the shadows of night from the sleeping forms. Their out- lines, however, were full and fair to the eye accustomed to watching through the heavy hours of a night in the wilderness. At that moment two of the Indians awoke, and discovered the situation of the captives. Van Cam- pen and one of the men were on one side of the fire- his partner proved the coward. Not a moment was to be lost; in an instant the two that were rising fell before his tomahawk, and sunk into the arms of death. He despatched the third one, when the shot was made on the opposite side of the fire. The alarm was then ge- neral. Three were mortally wounded from the shots -four still remained. Van Campen gave one a severe wound as he was on the jump. The stroke was aimed at his head, but sunk into his shoulder. He fell, and unfortunately as Van Campen was on the leap af- ter the savage, his foot slipped, and he fell by his side. They grappled together, each exerting his utmost power to prevent the use of the knife and tomahawk. After a short and severe struggle, they mutually relaxed their hold, which was no sooner. done than the Indian regained his feet and run. The victory was complete, only one of the ten Indians, who had laid down to repose in confidence and security that evening, ever reached their villages or Fort Niagara.

We would here observe, that common report says, many years after this conflict, the Indian who so nar- rowly escaped with his life called upon Major Van Campen at his residence, where a mutual recognition took place. The subject of that eventful evening was talked over, when the Indian, after partaking of the hospitalities of the house, departed on apparantly friend- ly terms.

On the 8th of April, Van Campen, was commissioned as a Lieutenant of Infantry, in the Pennsylvania line, the

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The Register of Pennsylvania : devoted to the preservation of facts and documents and every other kind of useful information respecting the state of Pennsylvania, Vol. XII, Part 12

Author: Hazard, Samuel, 1784-1870 Publication date: 1828 Publisher: Philadelphia : Printed by W.F. Geddes ; Number of Pages: 438

Author: Hazard, Samuel, 1784-1870
Publication date: 1828
Publisher: Philadelphia : Printed by W.F. Geddes ;
Number of Pages: 438