USA > Pennsylvania > The Register of Pennsylvania : devoted to the preservation of facts and documents and every other kind of useful information respecting the state of Pennsylvania, Vol. XII > Part 25
Note: The text from this book was generated using artificial intelligence so there may be some errors. The full pages can be found on Archive.org (link on the Part 1 page).
Part 1 | Part 2 | Part 3 | Part 4 | Part 5 | Part 6 | Part 7 | Part 8 | Part 9 | Part 10 | Part 11 | Part 12 | Part 13 | Part 14 | Part 15 | Part 16 | Part 17 | Part 18 | Part 19 | Part 20 | Part 21 | Part 22 | Part 23 | Part 24 | Part 25 | Part 26 | Part 27 | Part 28 | Part 29 | Part 30 | Part 31 | Part 32 | Part 33 | Part 34 | Part 35 | Part 36 | Part 37 | Part 38 | Part 39 | Part 40 | Part 41 | Part 42 | Part 43 | Part 44 | Part 45 | Part 46 | Part 47 | Part 48 | Part 49 | Part 50 | Part 51 | Part 52 | Part 53 | Part 54 | Part 55 | Part 56 | Part 57 | Part 58 | Part 59 | Part 60 | Part 61 | Part 62 | Part 63 | Part 64 | Part 65 | Part 66 | Part 67 | Part 68 | Part 69 | Part 70 | Part 71 | Part 72 | Part 73 | Part 74 | Part 75 | Part 76 | Part 77 | Part 78 | Part 79 | Part 80 | Part 81 | Part 82 | Part 83 | Part 84 | Part 85 | Part 86 | Part 87 | Part 88 | Part 89 | Part 90 | Part 91 | Part 92 | Part 93 | Part 94 | Part 95 | Part 96 | Part 97 | Part 98 | Part 99 | Part 100 | Part 101 | Part 102 | Part 103 | Part 104 | Part 105 | Part 106 | Part 107 | Part 108 | Part 109 | Part 110 | Part 111 | Part 112 | Part 113 | Part 114 | Part 115 | Part 116 | Part 117
Having reached the banks of the Susquehanna, we shall remain stationary for a while, in order to describe the course and character of that magnificent river, as accurately as our opportunities of knowing and our limited space will admit. Columbia too is one of those places where we always liked to tarry longer than for a change of horses. It contains an intelligent and en- terprising population, several of whom we have found very agreeable companions. As to the story, that the merchants of this place lay in annually a stock of blind horses, and of watches without works, to trade away to up country people, whose rafts or arks chance to be wrecked on the rocks near the town, and who must, | some potent natural cause that has now ceased to ope-
84
SKETCHES OF PENNSYLVANIA.
[AUGUST
rate. One of the heads of the Bushkill, the stream that furnishes Easton with its water power, is in this Gap. Through it passes the important turnpike from Easton to Wilkesbarre.
The passage of the great rivers through the Kittatiny Mountain, affords some of the most magnificent scenery on the continent. Of these the Delaware Water Gap is the finest-superior in all respects to the justly cele- brated Harper's Ferry, and worthy of a comparison with any thing of the Hudson. The Susquehanna and Kittatiny, as seen from the cupola of the Capital at Harrisburg; present also a most noble picture.
While on this subject we may observe, that arrange- ments have recently been made for the comfortable accommodation of strangers at the Delaware Water Gap. Our citizens who make a summer excursion for health, or pleasure, would find both at that delightful spot, with the advantage of seeing nature in her grand- est forms.
Under the Kittatiny Mountain, and between it and the Blue Ridge, lies an extensive range of fertile, and comparatively level country, commonly designated as the Kittatiny Valley. The distance between these mountains, and consequently the width of the valley, is generally from fifteen to twenty miles. About half of the valley comprehending all the most level portions, is a limestone formation -- the remainder, or more broken parts, rests upon a species of clay slate. The former is invariably, land of admirable quality, in a high state of cultivation; the latter is of a greatly inferior quality.
The Kittatiny Valley includes portions of the counties of Northampton, Lehigh, Berks, Lebanon, Dauphin, Cumberland, and Franklin, in Pennsylvania; of Wash- ington, in Maryland; and of Berkley, Jefferson, Freder- ick, Shanandoah, Rockingliam, Augusta, Rockbridge, Bottetout, Montgomery, and Grayson, in Virginia. It extends, also, through North Carolina and Georgia, into Alabama. It contains a large portion of the important inland towns in these States-for instance, Easton, Bethlehem, Allentown, Kutztown, Reading, Womels- dorf, Myerstown, Lebanon, Palmyra, Hummelstown, Middletown, Harrisburg, Carlisle, Shippensburgh, Chambersburg, and Green Castle, in Pennsylvania- Hagerstown, in Maryland-Martinsburg, Charlestown, Shepardstown, Winchester, Woodstock, Staunton, and Lexington, in Virginia. All tlre towns in Pennsylvania which we have named, stand upon the Limestone por- tion of the valley, while upon the Slate, scarcely a village worth naming, except perhaps Hamburg, on the Schuylkill, has grown up.
This Limestone format'on abounds with cavities, and hence small streams frequently disappear for miles, and then suddenly burst from the ground in the form of copious springs. It is not uncommon for whole acres of ground suddenly to sink.
To this range of country belong several of the caves of Virginia, and the celebrated natural bridge, which is a huge limestone rock perforated by a small branch of James river.
The Shenandoah follows the Kittatiny valley through- out its whole course, running at the western base of the Blue Ridge, and remarkable as being the only stream of equal magnitude which does not break that mountain. It seems to be conscious of the gigantic ef- fort required for the purpose, and therefore waits until reinforced by the mighty Potomac. Immediately be- low the junction is the pass of Harper's Ferry. In the same valley are the Conococheague, a branch of the Potomac, on which Chambersburg is situated, the Co- nodoguinet, a branch of the Susquehanna, and the Tulpehocken, running to the Schuylkill, opposite Reading.
-
north-western of clay slate,-the two rocks touch each other as if placed by art."
In Cumberland county the Conedoguinet creek forms, for many miles, the boundary between the limestone and slate. Near the point of junction will frequently be found a species of impure limestone from which the aqueduct cement used in masonry, exposed to water, is prepared. It owes its property of hardening under water to the presence of the iron and silex. In such a position near Hummelstown, the cement used for locks, on the Union Canal was obtained. That for the Le- high and Delaware Canal was principally produced above Allentown. Experience has proved it to be of good quality, and equal, for most purposes, to the cel- ebrated Roman cement. We believe it may be found (more or less perfect) at almost every point where limestone rock ends, and the slate begins.
The Kittatiny valley is among the most fertile, and beautiful portions of Pennsylvania. A traveller who desires to see the State to advantage, should pass from Easton to Reading, thence to Lebanon, Har- risburg, Carlisle, and Chambersburg. In the whole dis- tance he will pass but few spots which do not bear tes- timony to the bounty of nature, and the successful in- dustry of the inhabitants. He will find the population almost exclusively German, until he enters Franklin county, which contains a large proportion of Irish and Scotch descent.
This fertile region is crossed at right angles by three important improvements, namely-the Lehigh Canal, the Schuylkill Navigation, and the State Canal along the Susquehanna. The Union Canal follows the valley in its whole course from the Susquehanna to the Schuylkill. By these channels its surplus products are forwarded into the Philadelphia market. Franklin county and a part of Cumberland, however, find their outlet by the Potomac, and to Baltimore.
In our next we shall complete our view of the great mountain ranges of Pennsylvania.
No. 8.
Our last was occupied by a brief description of Kit- tatiny, or Blue Mountain, and of the magnificent valley lying at its base. In the present number we shall en- deavour to complete our general view of the great mountain ranges of Pennsylvania.
About fifty miles west of the Kittatiny, (measuring on the southern line of the state, ) we come to the ridge generally known and distinguished as the " Great Alle- ghany Mountain." It enters Pennsylvania from Mary- land in a northerly direction, (a little inclined to east, ) and continues that course, dividing Bedford from Somer- set and Cambria counties, until it reaches the northern angle of Bedford; then turning to the north-east, di- vides Huntingdon from Cambria, and enters Centre on the angle between it and Clearfield; then north-easter- ly through Centre, till it strikes the west branch of the Susquehanna, just above the mouth of Bald Eagle Creek. Crossing the west branch, (according to the received maps, ) it traverses Lycoming in a direction al- most due east, and enters Luzerne at the angle between it and Columbia. Resuming its north-eastern course, it passes through Luzerne, crosses the north branch above Tunkhannock, and passes through the eastern part of Susquehanna county into the state of New York .. South of Pennsylvania the same mountain has a general south-western direction, through Maryland, Virginia and Tennessee, and is lost in the northern part of Alabama.
Between the line thus indicated, and the Kittatiny Mountain described in our last, is contained a portion of Pennsylvania, which, in general terms, may be called a parallellogram, of which Bedford county is the base, and the opposite extremity is the Delaware, in Wayne county. This parallellogram is about 250 miles in length from south-east to north-west, with a general
" That section of the valley (says Darby) which tra- verses Pennsylvania, is about 160 miles in length, and covers an area, of perhaps, 3000 square miles. The south-eastern part is formed of transition limestone, the | breadth of about 50 or 60 miles, may properly be de-
85
SKETCHES OF PENNSYLVANIA.
1833.]
signated as the Central Mountain Region of Pennsylva- nia. It embraces the counties of Bedford, Huntingdon, Centre, Mifflin, Juniata, Perry, Union, half of Lycom- ing, Northumberland, Columbia, Luzerne, Pike, Wayne and parts of Dauphin and Northampton. As a whole, it is by far the most rugged and mountainous section of the state, presenting the largest portion of land, inca- pable of cultivation. Probably not more than one-fifth of its whole surface can, under any circumstances, be rendered useful for agricultural purposes.
When using such general terms, however, we do not mean to exclude any distinct and striking exceptions. Some portions of this very territory have great natural fertility, and are highly improved by cultivation. Its valleys contain land equal to any other in the state, and several of them are of very considerable extent-for instance, Penn's valley, in Union; Kishicoquillas, in Miff- lin; Bald Eagle, in Centre; Wyoming, in Luzerne-the valley of the west branch from Northumberland, to Jer- sey Shore, and of the north branch up to Berwick Still the general characteristics of the whole section, are ruggedness and intractability, while the districts adorned by opposite qualities must be regarded as ex- ceptions to the rule.
A journey through this portion of the state, or an examination of it upon the map-presents a constant succession of mountains, which from their number, the want of accurate surveys, and especially from the infi. nite variety of local names that have been applied to them, it is difficult to trace into separate ranges-some of the ranges however are strongly marked, and when enumerated will sound familiar to our readers.
The Tuscarora mountains, for example, running nearly parallel to the Alleghany, and the Kittatiny, se- parate Franklin from Huntingdon, and Juniata from Perry, crosses the Juniata near Millerstown, and the Susquehanna above Liverpool. East of the Susque- hanna it is known as the Broad mountain, which crosses the Schuylkill above Pottsville, and is probably identi- cal with the Mauch Chunk mountain, and with the Po- kano, which you cross on the road from Easton to Wilkesbarre. On the same side of the Susquehanna, between the Broad mountain and the Kittatiny, three distinct ranges may be traced to the Schuylkill and the Lehigh, known as Peter's, Third or Sharp mountain, and Second mountain. These also extend west of the Susquehanna, and cover a large part of the surface of Perry county.
All travellers to Pittsburg remember Sideling hill, in Bedford county. This mountain, ranging north east, crosses the Juniata below Huntingdon. Under the name of Jacks it bounds the Kishicoquillas valley, in Mifflin, and then extends itself through Union, Colum- bia and Luzerne.
To designate all these ranges would be useless, even if it were practicable. Suffice it to say, they nearly fill up the space between the Alleghany and the Kittatiny, leaving comparatively small interstices of valley or allu- vial land. The circumstance most worthy of remark, is, their general parallelism to each other, and to the other great ranges of which we have occasion to speak. In nearly all, a course from southwest to northeast is strictly preserved.
scribed, and east of the river, is the Wyoming moun- tain which first takes that name 12 miles below Wilkes- barre and extends northeast through Luzerne into Wayne county. This range bounds Wyoming valley on the east. From its summit the traveller on the turn- pike from Easton to Wilkesbarre, obtains his first view of that delightful region which the song of Campbell has rendered immortal. Yet no traveller, we are per- suaded, ever looked down from the Prospect rock, without feeling the superiority of nature over art, of the reality over description. The whole course of Lacka- wanna creek is in the Wyoming valley; and it is the Wyoming mountain, with a change of name to Moosac, over which the Rail Road of the Hudson and Delaware Company from their Coal mines to their Canal passes.
The extensive section of the state which we have de- signated as the central mountainous region-presented no very encouraging prospects to the first settlers of the country. Here and there a strip of alluvial land upon the great rivers, or the sequestered valley of some smaller stream buried deep in the bosom of the moun- tains, held out inducements to the industry of the far- mer. But the general aspect was rugged and unpro- mising-and a great portion of the country apparently incapable of supplying the wants of any population, advanced by civilization above the rude hunter-state.
In this very district, nevertheless, some of the choi- cest bounties of Providence have been bestowed with a liberal hand. It is like the "toad, ugly and venomous," but "wears a precious jewel in its head,"-upon it more than upon any other, Philadelphia must found her prospective greatness, and Pennsylvania her claims to superiority over the rest of the Union.
In order to comprehend these views more clearly, we must beg our readers to recur to the map of Pennsyl- vania, and to fix their attention on the parallellogram included between the Alleghany and the Kittatiny Mountains, having Bedford county for its base; and for its northeastern termination the counties of Pike and Wayne on the Delaware. It is capable of a division in- to parts, separated from each other by strong natural boundaries; and each constituting a distinct quota to the wealth of Philadelphia and the state.
That portion of the parallellogram which lies west of the Susquehanna, and south of the west branch, in- cluding the counties of Bedford, Huntingdon, Centre, Mifflin, Juniata, Perry, and Union, is the great central Iron region of Pennsylvania. The Juniata and Bald Eagle iron, so well known and so highly esteemed in our market, are produced in this region. It supplies nearly all of that article consumed by the manufactories of Pittsburgh.
That portion of the parallellogram which lies east of the Susquehanna and north branch, and is bounded on the east by the Lehigh, from the Water Gap to its head; and then by the Wyoming or Moosac mountain, includ- ing the county of Schuylkill, parts of Northumberland, Luzerne, and Northampton, and small corners of Dau- phin, Columbia and Wayne, is the great Anthracite re- gion. It will be our business on some future occasion to describe more minutely the Coal districts of Penn- sylvania. Suffice it for the present to say, that the an- thracite of the Schuylkill and the Lehigh, of Lykens valley, Mahanoy, Shamokin, Wilkesbarre, Carbondale, and Beaver Meadow, are all contained within the limits just indicated.
Darby has described one other chain belonging to the division of the State, which is interesting, because in a part of its course, it forms the western boundary of the beautiful valley of Wyoming. "It leaves," (says he, ) East of the Lehigh and Moosac or Wyoming moun- tain between the same parallel-is an extensive moun- tainous district, including the head waters of the Dela- ware and its principal tributaries, from which Philadel- phia derives the immense supplies of lumber which an- nually descend the Delaware. This division embraces a portion of Northampton county, nearly the whole of Pike and Wayne; Delaware and Sullivan counties of New York, and a part of Sussex in New Jersey. "the Susquehanna above Northumberland, and travers. ing Northumberland and Columbia counties, enters Lu- zerne, and is broken by the Susquehanna river 16 miles below Wilkesbarre. Skirting the left bank about eight miles, it is again crossed by the river, and contin- uing its course northeast passes about 2§ miles from, and opposite Wilkesbarre. Preserving its course north- east, it is for the third and last time crossed by the ri- ver, above the mouth of the Lackawanna, 10 miles In making this division of the central mountain re- above Wilkesbarre," Parallel to the range thus de- | gion of the state, into three great parts-namely, the
86
PUBLIC LIBRARIES.
[AUGUST
iron, the anthracite and the timber region, we have left some intervals between the great natural land-marks which have been pointed out. Those intervals include about two-thirds of Columbia county lying west of the north branch. a part of Northumberland situated in the forks of the Susquehanna, and a portion of Lycoming between the west branch and the Alleghany mountain. It is remarkable that these districts, which are not dis- tinguished for mineral wealth, are the least mountainous and far the most fertile of the range to which they be- long. A journey up the west branch from Northum- berland through Milton, Pennsbury and Williamsport, to Jersey shore, or from the same place along the north branch through Danville and Bloomsburg to Berwick, presents a succession of delightful farms, equal in pro- ductiveness to any in the state.
In describing the course of the great Alleghany mountain, we must be understood to have marked its extreme eastern limit-the line which separates the transition from the secondary formation. It is a com- mon remark of those who cross this mountain, that it lias but one side. The ascent from the east is bold and rapid. Arrived upon the summit, you proceed for miles upon comparatively level ground, and the descent is so gradual as scarcely to be perceived .: The true base or width of this mountain is probably about 20 or 25 miles. If a line be drawn parallel to that which we have indi- cated as the range of the Alleghany, pursuing a distance of from 20 to 25 miles; and terminating at the north branch of the Susquehanna, it will include the counties of Somerset and Cambria-the eastern part of Clear- field, the western part of Centre, the northern part of Lycoming, and a portion of Bradford. This belt or strip of country, we would designate as the western slope of the Alleghany mountain, and as generally the locality of bituminous coal. Accurate investigations would probably trace this mineral throughout the whole district. It has already been found at various points in Somerset and Cambria, and is procured in large quanti- tics at Curwensville and Karthauss, in Clearfield, at Phillipsburg, in Centre, and at Dunnstown, in Lycom- ing. To this range belong the coal veins on the heads of the Lycoming, the Tioga, and the Towanda. In the same range, also running with the coal, will generally be found abundance of iron ore, and springs impreg- nated with salt. The bituminous coal extends through- out a large part of western Pennsylvania, and into Vir- ginia and Ohio. The veins of bituminous coal always lie parallel to the horizon, and belong therefore to the secondary formation. Hence, as a general rule, it will not be found east of the Alleghany mountain. The on- ly exceptions to this rule which we are aware of, is a locality on the Raystown branch of the Juniata, in Bed- ford county, and one other on the Tangaskertock, in Lycoming county. The former is admitted to be an anomaly-as to the latter, we have accounted for it on a supposition which we have long entertained, that the course of the Alleghany mountain as generally laid down on the maps is incorrect. The map makers have followed the common nomenclature of the country. It is probable, however, that if the Alleghany mountain were traced by its known geological peculiarities, it would be found to run for some miles parallel to the west branch, and to cross that river many miles below the mouth of Bald Eagle, so as to leave the Tangas- kertock formation on its western slope. Here again we feel sensibly the want of accurate surveys with re- ference to the geological structure of the state. Nay, many important geographical features remain to be as- certained and marked on our maps.
On the road from Philadelphia to Pittsburg, after passing the Alleghany, we cross two other mountains, the Laurel Hill and the Chesnut Ridge-not remarkable for their elevation, but nevertheless constituting well defined geographical features. They are said to extend as distinct chains to a great distance north and south, and Laurel Hill is said to be identical with the Cumber- I purchased by the Directors of this Institution.
land mountain of Kentucky and Tennessee, which in crossing the Tennessee river forms the celebrated Mus- cle shoals. On the map of Pennsylvania, both these mountains are incorrectly marked as terminating with the Kiskiminetas river. They certainly extend north- ward into the state of New York. To an extension of these ranges we are disposed to refer the dividing ground, between the streams leading to the west branch and Semimahony, and those leading to the Alleghany river. This supposition would identify Laurel hill with the Elk or Boon's mountain in the northwest angle of Clearfield county-of this dividing ground we shall have occasion to say much hereafter. After passing Laurel hill, and Chesnut ridge, no other mountains, properly so called, occur in western Pennsylvania. The whole country, however, is hilly and undulating-the hills bearing about the same proportion to the mountains further east, as the waves of the Delaware bay do to those of the ocean.
The sketch which we have thus attempted, of the mountain ranges of Pennsylvania is necessarily imper- fect. With respect to many details it is probably inac- curate, because we have been compelled to view things upon the largest scale. It may, nevertheless, answer as a general outline, and may aid the inquiries of those who feel enough interest in the state of Pennsylvania to desire a knowledge of its geography.
One or two general remarks upon this subject, with some account of the relative heights of the several ranges, are necessarily reserved for another number of these sketches.
PUBLIC LIBRARIES.
From the Boston Mercantile Journal.
BOSTON BOOKS .- We mentioned recently that there were at least 76 periodicals in this city. Nor ought it to be forgotten that the citizens have made a provision of about 45,000 volumes of book in public libraries, most of which are selected with great care, besides about 20,000 in the circulating libraries. The two lar- gest collections on the continent-small enough indeed in comparison with those of the old countries-are at the Atheneum in this city (almost 28,000,) and at Cam- bridge (about 36,000.) Thus we have something like 100,000 volumes, kept constantly accessible at these de- positories, independently of the numerous and excellent collections which remain in the hands of individual own- ers. We believe there is a good library in Philadelphia of 25,000 volumes, and one in Charleston of 16,000.' New York and Baltimore are supposed to be rather in- differently supplied, but we should be glad to find our- selves, as to this, in an error.
We ought certainly to feel highly complimented by this notice of our depositories of learning. It reminds us strongly of a statement made not long since by some of the Boston papers, of the value of the real estate in this city, in which they modestly claimed double the amount for Boston that was allowed to Philadelphia. When the value of our property was ascertained, it turned out to be nearly four times greater than had been stated, and about double the amount stated as the value of the property in Boston. We think the number of volumes contained in our public Libraries will turn out somewhat similarly.
The Philadephia Library alone, (comprising the col- lections of the Philadelphia and Loganian Libraries) contains more than 42,000 volumes. About ten thou- sand of this number are rare and valuable works in Foreign Languages. The Loganian portion contains the best collection of Ancient Classical and Medical Works in America.
During the past year the valuable and well known Botanical Library of the late Zacheus Collins, and that of James Cox, principally on the Fine Arts, have been
87
IRON MANUFACTURES.
1833.]
This Library contains several thousand more volumes, and we believe decidedly the best collection of valua. ble works, of any similar institution in the United States.
In addition to this extensive collection, Philadelphia can boast of the Library belonging to the American Philosophical Society, containing 9,000 volumes, amongst which are to be found the best collection in this country of Memoirs and Transactions of the Euro- pean learned societies. The Library of the Academy of Natural Sciences, contains the most valuable collec- tion of works on Natural History in the United States. In the Library of the Pennsylvania Academy of the Fine Arts, one single donation from Napoleon Bona- parte, is valued at ten thousand dollars-this Library, though small, is rich in scarce and highly embellished works; among them is a complete copy of Pyranesi, and the Garden of Malmaison. The Library of the Pennsylvania Hospital contains 6,500 volumes, princi- pally relating to Medicine and the Natural Sciences. The Apprentices' Library Company comprises 7,000 volumes, furnishing annually to 1000 boys, works re- lating to the Arts, Sciences, and Instructive Literature. The Library of the German Society contains 4,000 vo- lumes, many of them scarce and valuable German works. There is a Library attached to the University of Penn- sylvania, to the College of Pharmacy, and to the Medi- cal Society of Philadelphia. The collection at the Athenæum, amounts to upwards of 6,500. The Society of Friends have a large and valuable Library. There is an extensive Law Library; a Foreign Classical Libra- ry; a Mercantile Library; Philadelphia Museum Com- pany's Library, on Natural History and Travels; St. Augustine's Library; Northern Liberties Library; South- wark Library; besides the increasing and useful Col- lection belonging to the Franklin Institute.
Need help finding more records? Try our genealogical records directory which has more than 1 million sources to help you more easily locate the available records.