USA > Colorado > History of Colorado; Volume I > Part 16
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* The bluffs on our side of the stream, and on which I noticed pine for the first time, grew smaller as we advanced and were at last merged entirely in the prairie. Farther back, however, we saw the first red cliffs, precipitous and imposing. In these the sand formation is also predominant. Many of these rows of cliffs seemed to have been telescoped into each other. Leading up to them are grass mounds which are in the nature of foothills, and these in turn flatten out. Along the range are numerous cliffs that seem thrown apart from the main range and shape them- selves into most peculiar forms. The first cliff at the beginning of the range and about eight miles from the stream had the appearance of an old castle or citadel. More remarkable still is the last one in the same range. Its tower-like pinnacle can be seen for thirty or forty miles and it has therefore been named 'The Chim- ney.' It is not more than a mile from the stream. Its cone-formed basis is about three-quarters its height, while the pyramid-like pinnacle takes up the other quar- ter. The upper part of the formation is of sandstone and the foundation is calca- reous. The entire height of the cliff is 525 feet-the pinnacle about 125 of this."
Without further mishap, the party reached the Green River rendezvous and on July 10th Wislizenus began his return journey.
Vol. I-9
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"We left Fort Crockett on August 18th and moved easterly toward the North Fork of the Platte. For several miles our path led along the Green River and then turned into a gulch, six to eight miles long, known as Brown's Hole. At the end of the gulch we camped. The following morning we gathered up the shreds left in our meatsacks and ate them, hoping to come across fresh meat before long. Our path, however, led over a sand waste, sparsely covered with grass and no game. During the morning we crossed the Vermillion, a brook with reddish- looking water, which flows into the Green. *
* * On August 25th, in the evening, we reached the left bank of the North Fork of the Platte, at a point which we had not touched in our westward journey. This was probably 100 miles in a straight line from Fort Laramie. The stream here was wide, but shallow, and we forded it with ease. We left it at once, however, going southwest to reach the South Fork. We arrived there in about eight days. On the first day we crossed over fairly high hills the range that belongs to this North Fork terri- tory. On the 5th we crossed the range which divides the terrain of the North Fork from that of the South Fork and over which there is a comparatively easy path. The mountain formation was again sand and limestone. On their sides were mostly pines. On the seventh day we reached the Cache a la Poudre Creek, which empties into the South Fork. On the ninth day we were at the South Fork. On September 3d we were unexpectedly to the left bank of the South Fork and crossed. On the right bank here there are three forts only a few miles apart. These are Penn's and Savory's Fort, Vasquez and Sublette's Fort and Lupton's Fort. They are of the customary construction, the outer walls being
of doby. There is much enmity and jealousy between these places. * * * In the second I met the famous Fitzpatrick, whose adventures in the mountains have been many and marvelous. He is a slim, bony figure, with expressive face and snow-white hair. His whole being seemed to breathe emotion and passion. *
"On September 7th we left the South Fork forts on the way to the Arkansas. For but half a day we followed the course of the former stream. At the south- west, along the left shore of the Platte, there came into view a mountain range whose topmost peaks were partially covered with snow. It made a beautiful background for the cottonwood lines along the Platte and for the broad prairie which stretches along its opposite bank.
"On the fourth day we traveled in the country that lies between the water- sheds of the Platte and Arkansas. The country is somewhat hilly and covered here and there with pine woods. In this wide prairie which stretches to the Arkansas we came across buffalo herds again. Here, too, we met two lodges of Arapahoes who had just killed a buffalo cow and invited us to the repast. The squaws were still busy cutting away the meat, and we smoked for a time and assisted in gathering buffalo chips, which we had to use for fire, as no wood was available. We traveled together after our meal. The squaws pack their animals with wonderful economy. One horse carries a pack weighing 300 pounds, but also the squaw and her children, she deftly preserving the equilibrium of it all. Even one of the dogs carried a load of fifty pounds. We camped at a sandy creek in the evening. The Indians were also going to the Arkansas, but they traveled too slowly for us and so we separated, reaching the Arkansas in two days.
"The Arkansas and the region round about are much like the Platte country. It rises in the same range on the South Fork and courses eastward toward the
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Mississippi. At times its shores are bleak, at times lined with cottonwoods. There is rolling country on both sides. It is a rushing stream, but shallow and navigable only for small boats. Catfish abound in it. We moved along the left shore for sixty miles toward Penn's (Bent's) Fort, the environment changing but little. Here and there along the shore we found wild grapes, which, though sour, were extremely palatable. They were larger than any I had seen before in the United States. We also found a red fruit, something on the cactus order, sweet to the taste. The grass was getting dryer as we moved along. Only by the side of the stream was it fresh. The high grass burns like tinder once it is lit. Through carelessness this happened in camp, and it was with the utmost difficulty that we saved our baggage. Buffalo were no longer plentiful. On September 15th we reached Penn's (Bent's) Fort. This lies on the left bank of the Arkan- sas River and is the largest and most beautiful fort we had visited on our entire journey. The walls are doby (adobe) and a watch tower, with loop-holes, rises on each side of the front wall. In the spacious center cattle are herded. They have in addition to these herds of cattle, sheep and goats and three buffalo calves that graze in the nearby fields. They have no surplus of horses, for Indians with unbelieveable boldness, recently drove off a hundred head. The fort lies about one hundred and fifty miles from Taos, in Mexico, and about three hundred miles from Santa Fé. Many little expeditions leave quite often for Taos to get flour, bread, beans, sugar, etc. In addition, ox wagons bring large consignments of goods annually from the Missouri border. About four miles above this is a sec- ond smaller fort called Bublo's Fort, which is occupied largely by French and Mexicans. We purchased some Spanish flour, which might better have been called bran. But our appetites had not been spoiled, so it was palatable to us. We left on the 17th. The many wagons that make the journey annually have carved out a well-defined road which lies largely along the river and joins the Santa Fé Trail about one hundred and fifty miles below. We followed this road. It was the same monotonous, treeless, sandy prairie. On the second day we reached what is called the 'Big Timber,' a spot on the Arkansas which for several miles is well-wooded. But below it is again destitute of trees. The Comanches, who here play about the same part the Blackfeet do in the North, scour the region for prey. We were fortunate enough not to make their acquaintance. On the fifth day we again encountered buffalo herds. On the sixth we reached the Santa Fé Trail. This broad road, like a chaussée, had gradually been made by the great ox caravans which annually cover the distance between the Missouri boundary and Santa Fé. The distance between Independence and Santa Fé is about nine hundred miles and the direction is southwest through the prairie.
"At a point less than half way between the towns is crossed the Arkansas. The stream there is shallow and is easily forded. It was at this crossing that we hit the trail. The road gradually left the river and wound its way toward smaller streams which empty into it from the north. The first day we traveled over a broad plateau, on which there were countless buffalo, but very little water. On September 26th we reached Pawnee Fork, on the next day Ash Creek, in the vicinity of which there is a cliff right in the midst of a prairie. This is said to mark the half-way point between Missouri and Penn's (Bent's) Fort. Many travelers have engraved their names on this.
"An unfortunate accident here separated me from my companions. My horse
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had weakened in the days that preceded and I was compelled to walk more than I care to. As there was some delay in breaking camp the next morning I took my animals by the bridle and walked them ahead in the hope that the party would soon overtake us. I tried afterwards to drive the animals ahead of me, but they ran to the side so often that I finally got into the tracks of another road, which gradually became less and less defined and finally disappeared. It was foggy and I could not see my companions in any direction. In order to lose no more time I determined to move east and thus strike the trail farther along. After going a few miles I came to a swamp. I could not see clear land either to the north or south. In the east it seemed to be only a few miles in length. The water was not deep, the soil fairly solid and I therefore determined to move along. Slowly I sent my horse forward. It, however, slipped after going over the wet grass and reeds. My packhorse I led by a rope. Waterbirds of all kinds swarmed about us. I do not recall having seen such quantities of swans, cranes, pelicans, wild geese and ducks in one small area. The marsh was covered with them and they felt so secure that I could have killed hundreds of them with my gun barrel. At this time I was not anxious to hunt, but rather to get safely out of the miserable swamp. My horse was getting weaker and I barely covered a mile an hour. With a great effort I finally reached what I thought from the distance were trees, but which turned out to be high reeds, and the other half of the swamp lay before me. I could no longer get my horse to move while riding it, and I therefore dismounted and led it by the bridle. At times the water was breast high. It was with measured and slow step that I moved along, my dog swimming after the bedraggled procession. It was sunset when I finally reached the end of the swamp. Before me lay a chain of small hills and nearby a creek with a wooded shore line. To this I led my wornout animals. The lone- someness of it all would at any other time have seriously affected me. Now it actually had a charm. I built a fire and dried my clothes. On the following morning, just as I was at breakfast, a herd of deer visited me. They came very close, but I did not shoot at them, for I still had a supply of dried meat, nor did I care to attract the attention of the Pawnees who were accustomed to crossing this district. I still moved eastward. The grass was often man-high and going was miserable. Nowhere did I strike a sign of a road. The country looked as if it had never been traversed by a human being. I crossed several small brooks, the bottom of some of which were so treacherous that my animals sunk in them. Several times I had to take the baggage off the pack animal. In the afternoon I reached a larger wooded creek, probably Cow Creek, and camped there. My horses were tired and worn out, so I remained there all of the next day as well, dried my baggage and animadverted on the solitude.
"The following morning I started again and struck the last buffalo herds of the journey. I sank into a few more creeks and camped on the Little Arkansas, a stream with a precipitous shore line. It took me a long time to find a place to water my horses. The following morning my animals were gone. On climbing a tree I spied them a mile away. It was impossible to get them across with the pack, so I dragged this over myself and then came back and got the animals over. After going eastward several hours longer I suddenly struck the Santa Fé Trail again. Even my animals seemed overjoyed. I found traces of my companions. That night I camped at a pool filled with frogs. This was for lack
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of a better place. I had now been separated from my companions for six days. On the following morning I traveled twenty-five miles in one stretch to Cotton- wood Creek, a wooded stream which here makes a half circle. I was just about to select a camping place when I heard a shot that must have been fired from a hollow nearby. I rode toward it and found my companions. They had waited for me a day at the Little Arkansas, but finally concluded that I was ahead of them. We still had 200 miles to the Missouri River."
Doctor Wislizenus reached Westport, now part of Kansas City, and from there went to St. Louis, arriving on the last day of October.
How well Doctor Wislizenus prophesied the future life of the Great West and the coming of civilization is shown by his words in concluding his journal, which follow :
"The fate of the western Indian may be foretold by the history of those who once occupied the eastern half of the country. Civilization will conquer even the last remnant, aided as it is by disease and whiskey. Many eastern tribes, as terrible as the Blackfeet are now in the West, have disappeared and hardly their names remain. Some have taken up agriculture and live, but as shadow pictures of a vanished people. The western tribes, it must be admitted, are protected from the advance of civilization by the vast sandy prairie which stretches from the boundary of Missouri 1,000 miles to the foot of the range. They have also the great wall of the Rockies and the sand steppes beyond to add to their security.
"But civilization will not find these difficulties insurmountable. Fully half of the prairie lands can be put under cultivation, and the lack of timber, which is due less to the nature of the soil than to the many prairie fires and the great herds of game, particularly buffalo, will not count for much with the advance of civilization. Illinois, too, had many treeless stretches which later civilization changed to wooded sections.
"When the waves of civilization from east and west will cover the vast sand dunes, and break against the mountains, the few free tribes will fight for exist- ence, but the waves will rise higher and higher until they reach and submerge them where they will make their last stand in the Rockies. The buffalo and the antelope and the bloody tomahawk will disappear in the flood. But there will be no peace pipe to smoke, for the new people will bring with the virtues all the evils of civilization. They will wallow in the lap of these Rockies to bring to light the precious metals that lie buried there. When they have found these, greed and envy and every ignoble quality will be aroused and the civilized race will find itself no happier than the vanished red brother."
CHAPTER VI
EARLY SETTLEMENT IN COLORADO
SETTLEMENT ON DENVER SITE-ST. CHARLES TOWN ASSOCIATION-THE AURARIA TOWN COMPANY- THE DENVER CITY TOWN COMPANY-FIRST BUSINESS AT CHERRY CREEK-BOULDER CITY TOWN COMPANY-LA PORTE-EL PASO CITY- FOUNTAIN CITY TOWN COMPANY-MOUNTAIN CITY-GOLDEN CITY-COLORADO CITY-CAÑON CITY-OTHER TOWNS OF 1859- CENTRAL CITY-PUEBLO CITY- LEADVILLE-GRAND JUNCTION-DELTA-MONTROSE-GLENWOOD SPRINGS-GUN- NISON- SILVERTON-OURAY-TELLURIDE-DURANGO
SETTLEMENT ON DENVER SITE
On September 7, 1858, the Lawrence party of prospectors, whose history is narrated elsewhere, having established their camp north of the Russell, or Platte River, "diggings," organized the "Montana Town Company." The purpose of this company was to start a town to be called "Montana City," the site of which is within the present city limits of Denver, 47/2 miles south of the state capitol on the east side of the South Platte. Josiah Hinman was elected president of this company ; and William J. Boyer was chosen secretary. A few log cabins were constructed upon the site of this first Pike's Peak town and the community began to show signs of becoming the principal town of the gold region. How- ever, the creation of other communities at the mouth of Cherry Creek defeated the ambitions of "Montana City" and before the next summer, 1859, little or nothing was left of it.
ST. CHARLES TOWN ASSOCIATION
In September, 1858, a number of the members of the Lawrence party, be- coming dissatisfied with the location of Montana City and believing that a better site could be procured on the South Platte, separated from the Lawrence organi- zation, with the intention of forming a new town company. With the Lawrence "seceders" John S. Smith and William McGaa, Indian traders, joined; their co- operation was much desired by the Lawrence men as in that way they could hold friendly intercourse with the Cheyenne and Arapahoe Indians. On September 24th the members met at the mouth of Cherry Creek, formally took possession of a mile square tract of land, drew and signed an agreement of organization, the latter signed by William McGaa, John S. Smith, Adnah French, T. C. Dickson, John A. Churchill, William Hartley, Frank M. Cobb, William N. Smith and Charles Nichols. Upon the same day they adopted the "Constitution of the St.
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Charles Association," as their organization was named, which, with the articles of agreement and the by-laws, constitute the earliest municipal documents rela- tive to the settlement of Colorado. On the 28th of September the following first officers were elected: Adnah French, president; William McGaa, vice president ; T. C. Dickson, secretary ; John S. Smith, treasurer; Frank M. Cobb, recorder'; the above officers, with William Hartley, Charles Nichols, William Smith and John A. Churchill, trustees.
Still making Montana City their headquarters, the members of the St. Charles Company began the survey of the new tract. William Hartley, a surveyor con- nected with the party, superintended this work, which was done with a rude pocket-compass and chain. The survey was started from a point within the present Denver city block bounded by Larimer, Fourteenth, Lawrence and Fifteenth streets, and the general plan of the streets followed north and south and east and west lines. Stakes and claim notices were set up on the land, notwithstanding the fact that the Indians held title to all of the land in question.
The name St. Charles, suggested by Charles Nichols who had lived at St. Charles, Missouri, was given to the new town, although several of the company in- sisted that the town be called "Golden City."
In the forepart of October, 1858, the Lawrence members of the St. Charles Association decided to return to eastern Kansas for the winter months, leaving Smith and McGaa in charge. In this way they hoped to advertise the new country and their townsite, also to obtain a charter from the Kansas Territorial Legislature. They believed that no further immigration to Colorado would oc- cur during the winter and that the prospects of St. Charles could be greatly en- hanced before the spring months. But this decision proved to be fatal to the St. Charles Association.
Shortly after the Lawrence men had departed upon their return trip to Kansas they met the D. C. Oakes party en route for Cherry Creek, where they arrived October 10th, and, still further along the trail, they met another party of Pike's Peakers, also bound for Cherry Creek. Frequent bands of immigrants were encountered thereafter and before long the St. Charles members began to be apprehensive of their holdings. They held a consultation and finally ap- pointed Charles Nichols to return to the St. Charles plat and construct a build- ing upon the site, in order to show their priority of right, also to induce the new settlers to locate there, of course under the authority of the St. Charles Town Association.
Nichols returned to Cherry Creek and there found about a half hundred new settlers encamped on the west side of the stream, around the quarters of Smith and McGaa, also the Russell men. Smith and McGaa, the two Indian traders, had become indifferent to Nichols and the St. Charles people and refused to assist in building a cabin on the platted ground. Nichols thereupon laid four logs upon the ground, which, according to pioneer custom, was assumed to be the beginning of a log house and to serve as protection of claim rights. His efforts, though were of little value, for the others calmly proceeded in their own fashion without regard to the former St. Charles Company.
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THE AURARIA TOWN COMPANY
By the 24th of October, the settlement on the west side of Cherry Creek hav- ing been augmented by the arrival of a number of people from Kansas, Nebras- ka and Missouri, the proposal was made to form a company and establish a "city" upon the land there. Public notice was given on the 27th that a mass meeting would be held on the 30th, at which time a town company would be organized. This meeting resulted in the formation of the company, as intended, and may be identified as the actual beginning of the present City of Denver. The record of this first meeting follows:
"October 30, 1858.
"At a meeting of the Citizens of the South Platte for the purpose of select- ing a suitable site for a town, Wm. McFadding was appointed as chairman, and A. J. Smith as Secretary of said meeting. The President stated the object of the meeting.
"On motion of Mr. Hutchins a committee of five was appointed to select said site, with power to examine into any and all previous claims. The chair appointed the following, viz .: Hutchins, Dudley, Dr. Russell, J. S. Smith and Rooker.
"The Committee reported that they were not able to report at this meeting and asked further time. Permission was granted.
"On motion of A. J. Smith a Committee of five was appointed to draft a Constitution, viz. : A. J. Smith, J. H. Dudley, William McGaw (meaning McGaa), L. J. Russell and S. M. Rooker.
"On motion Wm. McFadding was added to the Committee.
"On motion meeting adjourned to Oct. 31, 1858.
"A. J. SMITH, Secretary."
This second meeting was officially reported in the minute-book of the associa- tion as follows :
"October 31st, 1858 ..
"Meeting met pursuant to adjournment, Mr. McFadding in the Chair.
"Minutes of Meeting 30th inst. read and approved.
"The Committee to whom the selection of a town site was referred reported the Following, which was adopted, viz. :
"The Committee reports that they have selected a town-site upon the follow- ing lands. A tract having Cherry Creek for the Easterly line and the South Platte for the northerly line, and extending west and south sufficiently to include not less than Six hundred and forty acres. The claimants to said portions being present and acquiescing. Reserving and excepting for the Benefit of William McGaw and John S. Smith the privilege of a ferry landing within the river boundary of the town lands.
"The Committee appointed to draft a Constitution and By-laws reported on . the Constitution and By-laws, which were adopted with the following amend- ment, viz .: To the 9th article of the Constitution-When it becomes necessary to lay a tax for any improvement upon the town site it shall be the duty of the
THE INDIAN MASSACRE
View of the Town of Auraria, near Pike's Peak. This engraving and reference to it appeared in the issue of the New York Illustrated News on August 12, 1862. The News said: "The Indian Massacre. View of the Town of Auraria, near Pike's Peak. We have been favored by a correspondent with a sketch of this town, which was the scene of one of the horrible Indian massacres which have lately occurred in the Northwest. It is a small place, of a few inhabitants, and has, until now, been of no more interest than any other of the many little villages that everywhere dot the Minnesota prairies." Auraria was the part of pioneer Denver that was bounded by the South Platte River, Cherry Creek and Larimer Street. By a singular error the News located the town, as well as Pike's Peak, in Minnesota, and made it the scene of bloody attacks by Sioux Indians upon white settlers in the southwestern quarter of that state in 1862. The people of Colorado had no serious trouble with the Indians in that year. While the view is inaccurate as to sundry details, it represents crudely the appear- ance of Auraria as in the autumn of 1859.
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Board of Directors to call a meeting, notifying the Stockholders to that effect. A majority of the quorum always being necessary to levy such tax.
"On motion adjourned.
"A. J. SMITH, Secretary."
The constitution and by-laws of the Auraria Town Company, according to the secretary's report of them, were such as the following :
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